FLIP TRUNK INSTALL Honda Schematy Manuale ramzees

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                            Kia Sephia Flip Flop Trunk Modification
   The toughest part of this job is working with the heavy trunk lid itself. It is extremely difficult to hold it up
 while lining everything up for measuring, drilling, etc. You will need the help of at least two friends. On a lot
   of cars, when the trunk is open, the support arms are vertical. That makes a mod like this easy, because the
trunk lid "balances" on the end of the support arms. The Sephia support arms, however, are at an angle when in
the upright position, and they are also very far towards the front of the car. Because of this, the trunk lid is very
  back heavy and when hinged to the end of the support arms, will flip almost all the way over. You need too
           add some support arms to keep the lid horizontal, and keep it from flipping all the way over.

 Notice that on this Honda trunk, the ends of the support arms are nearly vertical in the open position. Notice
  also that the back of the trunk lid touches the curved part of the support arms. Thus, when this trunk lid is
  "flipped", it drops down and stops in a nearly horizontal position. As you can see in the (left) picture, the
Sephia support arms are angled slightly back when in the upper position, plus they are attached to the trunk lid
much farther forward, thus the rear end of the trunk lid is nowhere near the curved part of the support arm and
                                             has nothing to stop on.

 You'll need some strong (steel) strap hinges. Get ones that are 6" long (3" long on each half). I first tried this
 with smaller aluminum hinges and they bent the first time I tried to flip the trunk, that's a lot of weight put on
 them. Also, you need to have this size hinge because there is a big hole in the support arm, and with a shorter
    hinge, the end hole on the hinge is right over this big hole (you'll see what I mean in the next picture).
  These are called "friction lid supports" and are perfect for this job. They are used for support on toy box lids
    and stuff like that (right picture). In the picture above, the end where the left arrow is pointing would be
 mounted to the underside of the trunk lid. The end where the right arrow is pointing would be mounted to the
inside of the trunk support arm. They are about 6" long and you can get these at most hardware stores for about
                                                      $5-$8 a pair.

 There are 4 bolts to undo, and the trunk lid is off (Hey, hold onto it man!) This is where your friendly helpers
 come in, they have to hold the lid up in place while you measure, drill and screw the hinges on. Your friends
 will need to hold the trunk lid in it's normal position, so you can mount the hinges to the underside of the lid,
 and then hold it in a flipped over position, so you can mount the hinges to the upper side of the support arms.
 The middle part of the hinge will sit right on the end of the support arm. One half of the hinge is between the
   support arm and the trunk (red arrow, it's screwed to the top side of the support arm), and the other half is
 screwed to the underside of the trunk lid (blue arrow). Notice in this picture (yellow triangle) my hinge is too
short and the end is right over the hole in the support arm. That's why you need a hinge that has a half that's 3"
  long, so the end of the hinge is past the hole in the support arm. Don't let the lid move around too much, till
                          you put the support arms on, it's too much weight on the hinges.

   The friction lid supports go on the inside of each support arm. When the trunk lid is in it's normal position,
  they fold flat against the side of the support arm (red arrow). I bent the mounting end slightly (blue arrow) to
   match the curve of the underside of the lid. The stationary end (green arrow) is mounted to the inside of the
trunk support arm. You'll have to "trial and error" to get the exact position to mount the friction lid support. On
mine, the stationary end (green arrow) is 3" from the end of the support arm. The best thing to do is hold the
 friction lid support up under the trunk lid and have your friends swing the lid from a normal position to a
horizontal position, while you guide the friction lid support through its slide range, to see where it should be
mounted. Do this a couple of times till you get the right position. (In this picture, ignore the quick release pin
                                with the ring on the end, that comes in later.)

   Here is a view from underside, with the trunk in it's "flipped" horizontal position. The friction lid supports
slide open till the end stops, and hold the lid from flipping any farther over (without these, the back part of the
 trunk, where the license tag is, would keep dropping down till it was almost in the trunk, and bend the hinges
 over). You can see the strap hinge (red arrow) where the one half is mounted to the upper side of the support
   arm. Notice the screw in ring (top blue arrow). I had a machine shop cut off the head on two of the original
  bolts that held the trunk lid on, and weld a small ring on the end. When you bring the trunk lid back down to
  it's normal position, the ring goes into the hole where the bolt used to be (lower blue arrow). There is also a
  hole drilled into the side of the support arm, so a quick release pin can be inserted. For normal use, the trunk
 lid has to be closed in a normal position, you can't close it down when it's "flipped', it won't line up properly.

                                       Another view of the mechanisms.
                                          Strap Hinge (yellow arrow)
                                       Friction Lid Supports (red arrows)
                                     Screw In Ring and Hole (blue arrows)
 (The screw in ring is threaded in far enough so that it lines up with the hole drilled in the side of the support
                            arm, when the lid is in it's normal "unflipped" position).
In this picture the trunk lid is being brought back to it's normal position (the front part is moving down, yellow
arrow). The screw in ring is almost in the hole in the support arm (red arrows). See how the friction lid support
                   is beginning to close flat against the inside of the support arm (blue arrow).
     NOTE: You will need to slightly re-route the lid's wiring so it doesn't interfere with the trunk flipping

  In this picture the lid is in it's normal position. A quick release pin is inserted to keep it locked down (red
arrow). The pin goes through a hole drilled into the side of the support arm and through the screw in ring that
  is now inside the support arm. The support arm on the other side has the same set-up, just opposite sided.

    Same view, a little farther away. You can see the quick release pin (lower red arrow) and the friction lid
                  support folded flat against the inside of the support arm (upper red arrow).
If you line everything up properly, the inside end of the quick release pin will come out through the middle of
                                         the friction lid support's arm
Here is what she looks like in the "flipped, show car" position. Basically, you open the trunk normally, hold on
the lower back lip, pull both quick release pins, and gently let the back end lower down until it stops. To close,
you just lift the back end slowly until the lid is flat against the support arms and put the quick release pins back
in. DO NOT try to drive around with the trunk lid "flipped", it weighs too much and you will end up with bent
 up hardware. Also remember to "flip" and "flop" the trunk lid slowly, as it is very "back end heavy" and you
  don't want to bend your hardware. If your trunk lid rattles when you are driving around, get some of those
     small stick-on foam pads and put one on the top of the support arms, closest to the back window end.

           Now you can "wow" and amaze your friends as well as show it off at all those car shows!


                                              Plik z chomika:


                                        Inne pliki z tego folderu:

                                     Wholesale LIST--Parts.doc (78 KB)
                                  Custom Stereo Trunk Enclosure.doc (641 KB)
                                  How to Install a Stereo System.doc (418 KB)
                                   How to polish your headlights.doc (132 KB)
                                      Custom Turbo Kits.doc (979 KB)

                                      Inne foldery tego chomika:

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                                                  Honda - Programy
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