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Assembly instructions for GF kit clock

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									                    Assembly instructions for H1GF kit clock
Contents
  IMPORTANT – Read first......................................................................................... 2
  Sanding ...................................................................................................................... 3
  Clock Hanger ............................................................................................................. 3
  The Frame .................................................................................................................. 4
  Weight pulleys and winder cog.................................................................................. 5
  Power cog................................................................................................................... 6
  Centre shaft ................................................................................................................ 8
  Left shaft .................................................................................................................... 9
  Top Left shaft ............................................................................................................. 9
  Top shaft .................................................................................................................. 10
  Mid/back Plate assembly ......................................................................................... 10
  Pendulum ................................................................................................................. 11
  Weight boxes ........................................................................................................... 12
  Escapement .............................................................................................................. 13
  Winding handle ........................................................................................................ 13
  First tests .................................................................................................................. 14
  Adding the weight boxes ......................................................................................... 14
  Second tests .............................................................................................................. 14
  Minute Cogs ............................................................................................................. 15
  Clock face ................................................................................................................ 15
                                                                                        2



IMPORTANT – Read first
Your kit has been carefully designed so that it is easy to build and will work first time,
it has been machined from high quality Birch plywood using an automated router to
give accurate parts for you to work with.
     The Furring you will see on the parts is normal and will only require a small
        amount of sanding to remove it. Most of the work required to build the kit will
        be sanding and preparing the pieces, time spent at the beginning will be more
        than worth it in the end.
     Your final finish (varnish, Stain etc.) will turn your kit into a timepiece you
        can be proud of for years to come, deciding how to finish your kit need
        thinking about at the beginning as you can save time by pre finishing parts
        whilst they are still in the sheet form (see hints and tips)
     DO NOT PRESS out the parts, they must be cut out carefully using a fine
        toothed saw, otherwise you could damage the parts.
     The Escapement parts (2) (supplied on a small piece of thinner ply) are
        critical parts of your clock, they have been machined out of Aircraft grade
        plywood and their shape is critical (see the section on the Escapement before
        doing anything with these parts)
     Read the Hints and Tips section before starting your Kit, it contains lots of
        help for you, will save you time and could prevent you from damaging parts.
                                                                                       3



Sanding

All parts will need sanding to remove the ‘Furring’ left by the cutting process. The kit
sheets have had an initial quick sand but it is advisable to do as much surface sanding
now as you can whilst the parts are still in the sheet, the edges are cleaned after they
have been removed from the sheets.


Clock Hanger
Let’s start with an easy piece!
Carefully cut out and clean the parts for
the hanger
Clean as required then glue the packing
strip to the back of the centre piece so the
holes line up and the edges also line up.
With all hooks pointing away from you
and the packing strip to the rear, hook on
the two side pieces (glue if you want to)
When you come to fix your clock to the
wall, place one screw through the top hole
and tighten firmly, then place another
screw through the centre of the bottom
slot and tighten so the frame is movable,
but not easily. This slot allows you to
level the clock by a small rotation of the
hanger.
                                                                                       4



The Frame
Carefully cut out and clean the back plate
and frame parts.
Glue together the pairs of spacers to make
four 12mm thick spacers. Mark each one
for left and right now, put corresponding
marks in the recesses of the back plate.
When assembling the frame ensure the
correct spacer is used in its corresponding
position as they will vary by the time you
have assembled the frame.
Gently sand/file off the bottom corners of
the spacers (slots to the top) so they fit
into the recesses.
The mid frame piece now needs to be
fitted tightly into the spacers, the single
slotted spacers fit on to the tabs at the top
of the mid frame and the 3 slot spacers
(use the middle slot) fit on the open ends
of the mid frame. Sand/File as required to
get a good fit (Note, if you beeswax these
joints later they will feel much looser)
The winder plates now need fitting into the
3 slot spacers, be careful to get them the
right way round! (see winder hole to the
left)
Fit all three frames into one spacer,
remove it and then do the other, finally
with one bottom spacer assembled.
Carefully add the missing bottom spacer
by wriggling it into place.
Assembled, these pieces should drop
cleanly into the back plate recesses.
Drill four 3mm holes through the back
plate recesses (centred), then fit the
midframe, turn upside down and drill
through the 3mm holes into the spacers using a 2.5mm drill, countersink the holes on
the back of the back plate then screw the backplate to the mid plate using the Hex
headed screws, do not over tighten, they only need to hold.
                                                                                         5



Weight pulleys and winder cog
Cut two lengths of 9mm dowel, 19mm
long, drill a 3mm hole in the centre of
each end, approx. 6mm deep (using the
provide jig - see hints and tips). Insert a
12mm piece of 3mm dowel in each hole,
check they are central to the 9mm dowel
and leave to dry.
Cut out the two pulley wheels, clean and
sand as required, then file a small grove
around the perimeter ( to accept the wire
that holds the weights), ideally this should
be 1mm deep and 3-4 mm wide V shape.
Press the Pulleys, with a little glue, on to
the centre of the dried 9mm shafts and
ensure they are running true, leave to dry.
Cut out and clean the Winder pieces and
cut a 13mm piece of 9mm dowel.
Glue the circular hole, the slotted hole
then another circular hole piece together in
that order, align and allow to dry, then
insert the 9mm dowel into one of the
circular holes using plenty of glue, clean
off excess glue and let dry.
Taking the lower winder plate from your
frame, keeping it the right way round,
make the winder hole so that the 9mm
dowel fits through loose enough to spin
freely but not too loosely.
Before assembling the winder bits finally,
use a soft pencil to lubricate where these
pieces are going to touch the winder frame
( by scribbling on the wood), be careful to
keep it where it can not be seen later)
Insert the dowel from the top (make sure
you have this right because there is no going back if you get this wrong!) and with a
little glue in the cog hole only, press the cog over the dowel until it is nearly touching
the winder plate, this again needs to spin freely, but not wobble about.
Clean off any surplus glue and trim the end of the dowel flush with the cog if
required.
Place 4 nylon bearings in the pulley bearing holes, and assemble the pulleys and
winder frame, back into the mid frame assembly.
Ensure the pulleys and the winder cog are located correctly and spin freely.
                                                                                          6


Power cog (cog 3)




This is the most challenging section of the
clock to build.
Carefully cut out and clean all of the parts
required and cut a 42mm piece of 9mm
dowel, drill a 3mm hole 6mm deep in each
end.
Put a pencil cross on one end (the top) and
measure and mark a line 35mm from that
end. Press the inner ratchet piece onto the
shaft from the top down to the line, viewed
from the top, the ratchet should spin
clockwise without catching, anti clockwise
it should catch (see picture). Place some
glue around the shaft on the top edge of
the ratchet, slide the smaller cog down to it
and press together, rotating one against the
other to spread the glue, check the ratchets
position on the shaft (pencil line should be
just visible, and check it spins without
wobble. Repeat this process with the large
6mm washer then add a small 6mm
washer.
Next add another small 6mm and the T
shaped washer without any glue, trim the
thickness of the small washer until the T shaped washer is flush with the end of the
shaft. Glue them into place. This is the
winding drum where the wire for the
weights are coiled up when wound, if you
have any gaps in the joints of the drum at
this stage, fill them with slivers of wood
and glue, other wise the wire will cut into
them and jam.
Now working from the bottom of the
assembly, add a small washer and another
T shaped washer again with no glue, trim
to leave to leave just over 6mm between
the ratchet and the T washer, test it by
adding the main power cog onto the shaft, it should spin freely but not too wobbly,
when happy, Cut four 9mm long pieces of 3mm shaft and use them to align the outer
ratchet ring, fit the outer ratchet to the top of the main power cog checking it is the
                                                                                    7


correct way around, the centre shaft should be free to rotate clockwise whilst holding
the power cog.
Glue the washers into position with the main power cog in place, be careful not to get
glue on the main power wheel, as the glue dries, keep checking it is free.
Finally drill two 3mm holes a couple on mm apart through the winder drum at right
angles to the shaft, these will allow you to anchor the winder wires later.
The whole assembly should now fit between the backplate and the mid frame and spin
freely (add nylon bearings top and bottom)
                                                                                8


NOTE assemble the following shafts without glue, after trying all shafts together
in the frame, if there are no problems you can glue them then.
Also be careful to get the cogs the right way up, the machined face is always up.




Centre shaft (cogs 8 & 7)
DO NOT GLUE YET




Carefully cut out and clean all of the parts
required and cut an 80mm piece of 3mm
dowel, mark a line 36mm from one end.
From that end slide a 6mm spacer up to
the 38mm mark, then add the large cog (8)
then 12mm of spacers, then the smaller
cog (7). You should have about 6mm of
shaft remaining.
Place a nylon bearing in to the centre holes
of the frames and insert the shaft, check it
spins freely, if it is a little tight you can
thin the top spacer.
                                                                                           9


Left shaft (cogs 9&14)
DO NOT GLUE YET




Carefully cut out and clean all of the parts required
and cut a 45mm piece of 3mm dowel.
Slide on 10mm of spacers leaving 6mm of shaft, to
the other end add cog 9 then 3mm of spacers then
cog 14 then 8mm of spacers, check you have 6mm
of shaft at each end.
Place a nylon bearing in to the left holes of the
frames and insert the shaft, check it spins freely.




Top Left shaft (cogs 11 & 16)
DO NOT GLUE YET




Carefully cut out and clean all of the parts required and cut a 45mm piece of 3mm
dowel.
Slide on 14mm of spacers leaving 6mm of shaft, to the other end add cog 11 then
3mm of spacers then cog 16 then 3mm of spacers, check you have 6mm of shaft at
each end.
Place a nylon bearing in to the top left holes of the frames and insert the shaft, check
it spins freely.
                                                                                         10




Top shaft (cogs 13 & 10)
DO NOT GLUE YET




NOTE – cog 13 is part of the escapement and requires special care, it has been
machined from high quality Aircraft grade birch plywood. Clean carefully, do not
damage the tips and when assembled you will need to make sure the cog is exactly
central on the shaft (see hints and tips).
Carefully cut out and clean all of the parts required and cut a 45mm piece of 3mm
dowel.
Slide on 12mm of spacers leaving 6mm of shaft, to the other end add cog 13 then
7mm of spacers then cog 10 then 3mm of spacers, check you have 6mm of shaft at
each end.
Place a nylon bearing in to the top holes of the frames and insert the shaft, check it
spins freely.

Mid/back Plate assembly
Make sure you have nylon bearings in all
of the bearing holes then put one shaft at a
time into the mid/back frame assembly,
screw together loosely and check the shaft
runs freely, then repeat with two mating
shafts at a time, eventually, add all shafts
and check the running of the gears (see
hints and tips – free running gears).
At this point, you may need to alter the
spacing a little to avoid gears from
clashing. Take time to get this right then
you can remove the shafts and glue the
spacers and cogs onto the shafts.
                                                                                    11



Pendulum
In order to fit the pendulum in the box, I
have had to cut it up! Sorry.
Glue the pendulum hanger to the end of the
16mm dowel with largest cut in it then glue
the two pieces of 16mm dowel together
using the pieces supplied (in the bag), drill
3mm holes right through the each joint and
press a bit of 3mm dowel into the holes,
leave to dry. Clean and sand.
Cut a 40mm long piece of 9mm dowel,
trim as required to make a tight fit into the
hole 2nd from the top on the backplate, this
will be glued in later sticking out of the
back of the clock. Now draw a pencil line along the top of this piece and another
around the dowel 15mm from the fitted end, now cut / file / sand as required the
(25mm end) sides of the dowel to form a 45 degree point at the pencil line, this will
support the pendulum and allow it to swing freely, when done glue to the back of the
clock with the pointed edge upwards and square to the back plate.
                                                                                        12



Weight boxes
Ok, now comes the tricky bit!
Carefully cut out and clean all of the parts
from the weight box sheet.
The weight box ends have a 16mm hole in
them (not shown on the picture as I forgot
to cut them on this sheet!), and the weight
boxes have no hole in the bottoms and a
3mm hole in the tops.
All three boxes are built the same, just be
careful you get the right top and bottoms.
You are going to build three hexagonal
weight boxes and you will need to balance
20 pieces together whilst the glue dries, I suggest the use of two rubber bands for each
box.
Cut 18 pieces of bamboo sticks (pointed at one end) 100mm long (scrap the pointed
pieces)
I would suggest you do a dry run first to
check the pieces fit correctly, when you do
glue it, leave the top loose (NO GLUE).
Get all of the parts to hand. 6 box sides, 6
bamboo sticks, a top and a bottom. Lay the
bottom piece on the table, then start
holding a side piece, then a bamboo stick,
then a side piece etc. until you have a six
sided box, get a rubber band on the lower
section, add the top and then the second
rubber band, there, easy wasn’t it, just two
more to go!
When dry, add more glue to the inside of the joints if you suspect it will not hold
together.
Now take the coil of wire, watch this stuff, it has a mind of it’s own. Unravel it, fold it
in the centre and re roll it onto something to make it more manageable. Use rubber
bands to keep it on the roll but leave 0.5 Metre of the free ends loose.
Twist the ends to tighten up the loose bits.
Thread the tops (small holes) onto each wire.
With the wire anchor (grooves down) thread the wire down through the centre hole,
follow the groove to the next hole, thread the wire up that hole, then down the next,
follow the groove then up the last hole, check both anchors are level on the wire then
pull it as tight as you can, snip off any excess leaving 5mm bent over to stop it falling
out. Using plenty of glue, stick the anchors to the bottom of the weight boxes (no
hole).
                                                                                           13



Escapement
NOTE – The pallet (17) is part of the
escapement and requires special care, it has
been machined from high quality Aircraft
grade birch plywood. Clean carefully, do
not damage the tips (see hints and tips).
Carefully cut out and clean all of the parts
required and cut a 60mm length of 3mm
dowel and mark a line 42mm along the
shaft.
Slide the pallet onto the shaft from the
measured end to the 43mm mark (you may
need to open the hole a bit, but keep it
fairly tight. Slide on 15mm of spacers.
Insert a bearing into the top hole of the
backplate and push the remaining piece of
the shaft through it (you will need to undo
the mid/back frame to do this), then add the
bearing to the top hole of the mid frame.
The pallet should swing free but not rattle,
this is important.
Glue together the pallet fork and the
reinforcing piece. When dry, press onto the
pallet shaft (NO GLUE), this needs to be
tight, but be careful not to damage the pallet. Align it so that when the pallet fork is
hanging straight down the clock, the pallet is roughly centred on the escapement
wheel

Winding handle
Carefully cut out and clean all of the parts
required and cut two pieces of 9mm dowel,
70mm and 50mm long.
Glue the two halves of the winding handle
together then fit the handle (50mm dowel)
into one of the holes, sand the wider and
round off the end of the handle.
Take the 70mm dowel and using a drill and
sandpaper, thin one end down so it fits
loosely into the winder hole then cut the end
to leave a 6mm deep and 3.5mm flat
screwdriver type end on it. Sand/file until it fits the slot in the winder. Glue the other
end of this dowel into the handle (opposite side to the handle dowel).
Insert the handle and turn it anti clockwise, the ratchet should allow the cable drum to
turn whilst the power cog stays still.
                                                                                      14


First tests
We can now carry out the first tests to see if the clock is going to work. Hang the
clock on a wall using the hanger assembly you built earlier without the pendulum.
Twist the clock to get the pallet as centred on the escapement wheel as you can, then
holding the big cog on the left shaft, GENTLY pull down, if it does not move, lift it
up and try again, you should see the pallet being driven by the power train (the cogs).
This is what pushes the pendulum to keep it moving. If you are careful and have the
clock levelled (level on a clock means the pallet is correctly positioned to the
escapement wheel, even if the actual clock is off angle, this can be corrected by fitting
the pallet fork in line with the pallet itself, again it is worth taking some time to get
this right) a small pressure on the power cog (pushing the bottom to the right) should
make the pallet start swinging.

Adding the weight boxes
Unroll the weight wire allowing the weight boxes to sit on the floor and lift the wire
to the height of the top of the clock (this is assuming the clock is mounted at the level
you will be using it) cut off any excess wire, now pass each wire over one of the
weight pulleys and pull the wire above the power cog. Twist the ends together (both
wires) to make one doubled wire, pass the ends of the wire through one of the drilled
then back through the other, with the ends flush with the drum (not sticking out) pull
the wire tight and start winding the clock keeping tension on the wires until the
weight boxes are off the ground.
Check the weight boxes are level as you wind.
The weight box for the pendulum is held in place by friction at the moment, this is not
very successful and a mod will be sent to you shortly.
Slide the top of the pendulum weight box (big hole) onto the dowel from the bottom,
this should be a sliding fit, then slide the weight box on, this needs to be tight,
position it about 25mm from the bottom. Leave the Pendulum off for now.


Second tests
Add some weight to the weight boxes (about 400 grams each) and about 30grams to
the pendulum, you can use anything like lead shot, fishing weights, nuts and bolts,
ball bearings etc as long as it fits into the box, small items are best but you could use
lead sheet, cut into strips. Hang the clock on the wall without the pendulum, gently
move the lower part of the clock from one side to the other until the clock starts
running on its own, albeit a bit fast, if when the clock stops you can move the pallet
and the escapement wheel does not move you have a transmission problem, check you
cogs are running freely, try adding a little more weight, do not continue until you have
solved this problem.
Lift the clock off the hanger, add the pendulum to the pendulum hanger and through
the pallet fork, be careful not to tip the clock now as the escapement/pallet is fairly
fragile. Place the clock back on the hanger, level as needed, start the pendulum
swinging no more than about 30mm either side, and the clock should start ticking,
gently move the lower part of the clock from one side to the other until you get a
steady Tick..Tock..Tick..Tock . The pendulum will keep stopping as you move the
clock so give it a gently push to get it going again, as you get to the correct position,
the clock should keep going on it’s own. If not, see the Problem solving section, do
                                                                                        15


not progress until you have this working as it defiantly will not work if you add any
more parts.

Minute Cogs

Press cog 6 over the centre shaft until it
just touched the mid frame, there should
be some play if you pull the shaft. This
needs to be a tight fit as it is preferable not
to have to glue it so the clock can be
disassembled.




Carefully cut out and clean cogs 10 and 12 and cut a 24mm piece of 3mm dowel, glue
the small cog (10) on top of the other, centred on the shaft. Place this cog assembly
into the bearing hole (with a nylon bearing) to the right on the mid frame.




Carefully cut out and clean cog 5 and
glue12mm of spacers on top of the shaft
hole (this is called the cannon), when dry
you will need to open the hole to allow the
centre shaft to pass through it freely. Slide
the cog onto the centre shaft when done.




Clock face
Cut out and clean the clock face.
Check that the winding handle will fit
through the winding hole easily, enlarge it
if required.
Place a nylon bearing into the right hand
hole of the cross bar, then offer it up to the
clock, insert the winding handle and check
                                                                                       16


everything lines up correctly, you may need to adjust the frame in the frame spacers a
little.
When you are happy with the positioning, drill four 2.5mm holes through the pre
drilled holes on the clock face into the spacers beneath and fix the face in place using
the Hex headed screws provided, do not over tighten, they just need to hold the face
on.
Cut out and clean the hands
Clean the hole in the hour hand to snugly fit over the cannon, a slight taper on the
cannon is good (wider at the back), press it into place. Press the minute hand onto the
centre shaft.
To set the time, pull the hands forward a little, turn them to the required position then
press them back into place.




Congratulations, you have now built your own clock.

								
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