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Lighthouse Crawl

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					   **Lighthouse Crawl**
  Self Guided Historic Tour
Sunday, October 24, 2010 – Noon -3 PM
             Trolley Tours 1-3 PM
              Start at 6044 N. Broadway
         Free Admission – Donations Welcome
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            Edgewater Community Council’s 50th Anniversary LIGHTHOUSE CRAWL

                        The Lighthouses of Edgewater Walking Tour and Fest

             Celebrating the 50th Anniversary of the Edgewater Community Council


Welcome to the Edgewater Lighthouse Crawl. The 23 Lighthouses you will see along this 4.9 mile walk through the
Edgewater neighborhood were installed this summer of 2010 to celebrate the Edgewater Community Council’s 50th
Anniversary. On this walk you will see and read about places of worship, historic homes, interesting businesses,
beaches, parks, and bits of Chicago history. It is an overview of the Edgewater area but more importantly it helps
to demonstrate how the Edgewater Community Council has helped to shape this area for the past 50 years.
This walking tour will mix directions with narrative as it walks you through the route. Directions will be in Capital
letters (CROSS, CONTINUE EAST). Turning instructions will be referenced with the geographic directions and also
be in capital letters (TURN LEFT/EAST). Street names will be in upper and lower case (Bryn Mawr, Broadway).
Addresses will be in BOLD (5400 N WAYNE). Significant sites will be in italics (St. Ita’s Church, The Renaissance).
BLOCKS will be the common distance marker (walk two blocks to Sheridan RD); a block is the distance between
two streets. Addresses in Edgewater are either West or North, and the numbers are 4 digits. Each block is
basically 100 numbers i.e. (5400 N Wayne or 1247 W Granville). 5400 N Wayne is 1 block south of 5500 N Wayne.
Numbers increase as we go north and west.

The lighthouse symbol and description appears just before the location, with the map key.

                               LIGHTHOUSE SPONSOR

   #                           ADDRESS

                               Artists:



This route and guide was developed by Kathy Kacen of the ECC 50th Anniversary Committee, with the editorial
assistance of Bob Remer. Considerable added data was provided by Grace Pekar that served as the basis of the
supplemental quiz for the tour. Additional historic information and data were copied from the Edgewater
Historical Society website (www.edgewaterhistory.org). Information was also obtained from The Encyclopedia of
Chicago, and Wikipedia. Other individuals who provided very useful information and input were Lynn Pierce,
Tiffany Middleton, Kathy Gemperle, LeRoy Blommaert, and Betty Mayian. This guide was printed by the Edgewater
Historical Society.
                                                                                                                    4

So let’s get started….. [please note the companion trolley tours may follow a different
route]


                                EDGEWATER COMMUNITY COUNCIL (ECC)

    A                           6044 N. BROADWAY

                                Artists: Troy McMillan & Dawnlynn Kacer


START AT this building that houses the Edgewater Community Council (ECC), formally incorporated on January 13,
1960, started by neighbors, religious leaders, and local officials to bring community members together and
improve the area in many different ways: dealing with problems of unattractive and unsafe apartment housing,
encouraging growing small businesses in Edgewater, getting a community library, creating more recreational space
in the community, and to make life better in Edgewater in every aspect. The ECC has since helped to foster many
other neighborhood organizations through Edgewater, many highlighted on this tour. The official boundaries of
Edgewater are Devon on the North, Foster on the South, Ravenswood on the West and the Lake on the East.
On the first floor is the program Care For Real, started by ECC in 1970; it houses a food pantry here and a clothing
pantry at the Epworth United Methodist Church at Kenmore and Berwyn and is a delegate agency of the Greater
Chicago Food Depository. Serving thousands of local residents, it has long been considered “the conscience of
Edgewater.”
EXIT the ECC and TURN SOUTH and walk down BROADWAY past True Nature Healthy Grocery, across Norwood
Street and you will see the

                                PATIO BEEF

   B                            6022 N. BROADWAY

                                Artist: Eddie Lopez


Patio Beef Lighthouse, depicting several of Chicago’s leading political and literary figures from modern history;
Martin Luther King Jr., Ida B Wells, S Cicerones and Barack Obama. Patio Beef has been a popular gathering place
for generations of Edgewater’s youth, and is a right of passage for every local junior high school student.

CONTINUE walking SOUTH to the brown brick building on the corner of Elmdale and Broadway

                                EDGEWATER BRANCH – CHICAGO PUBLIC LIBRARY

   C                            6000 N. BROADWAY -

                                Artists: Reading is Art-Rageous Participants, Jessica
                                Hahn and Suzanne Strom

This is the Edgewater branch of the Chicago Public Library, ECC’s first major civic victory, which opened in April
1973 (on the site of a former gas station) after over a decade of ECC efforts. This had been one of the top priorities
                                                                                                                   5

when ECC was formed in 1960. Previously Edgewater had only been served by occasional bookmobiles from the
main library. On January 23, 1988, the library was also the site of the first meeting of the Edgewater Historical
Society, which was formed after the successful ECC oral history project showed there was considerable interest in
local history. EHS is now one of the “legacy lighthouses” on this tour (5358 N. Ashland). Now one of the busiest
branches in the Library system, it has a Chicago room, where historical city and neighborhood documents are
available for reading and research. The LIGHTHOUSE sits in the tiny plaza next to the Library entrance.
CONTINUE walking SOUTH on BROADWAY across ELMDALE past the old Broadway Bank at 5960 N Broadway (now
MB Financial). Note the architecture and glazed Terra Cotta tiles that have recently suffered storm damage. In
June 1979 the Broadway Bank opened its doors at 5960 N. Broadway, in what is probably Edgewater’s most
beautiful commercial structure. The space now occupied by the former Broadway Bank was originally designed as
an auto showroom for the Riviera Motor Sales Company, a Chrysler-Plymouth-Maxwell dealership. A most elegant
showroom it was too in the early 1930s. Later, the space housed the Chicago Art Gallery.
You are also passing St Andrew’s Pub – a neighborhood pub with a long ghost reputation.
When Frank Giff, the former owner of the tavern suddenly died in one of his pub booths, or fell off the bar stool, it
seems that he wasn’t quite ready to go onto the other side, and decided to stay and “help” the living in running
his establishment, and perhaps help himself to the alcohol as well. His antics soon gave this pub the recognition as
being          haunted,          earning           a           place           in         Chicago           history.

STAY on the WEST SIDE of BROADWAY. (Yes, across the street is the Broadway Armory but that is where the tour
ends.) Walk past Moody’s Pub and beer garden, serving great hamburgers since 1959, to the intersection of
Rosedale and Broadway by Broadway Cellars Restaurant.

                               EDGEWATER CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

   D                           1210 W. ROSEDALE

                               Artists: Michelle Ching, Tom Jerome, & Staff


The LIGHTHOUSE on the corner is dedicated to the Edgewater Chamber of Commerce started in 1984 (Under the
original name of East Edgewater Chamber of Commerce) at the initiative of the Edgewater Community Council.
With over 600 businesses in Edgewater, the Chamber is dedicated to creating and supporting a thriving business
environment. The Chamber has often ranked as one of the top chambers in Chicago in terms of participation of
local businesses.
CONTINUE SOUTH on BROADWAY past 5844 & 5842 Ethiopian Restaurants & Markets. Edgewater is a very diverse
population. With over 36% foreign born in the census year 2000, the history of Edgewater has always been
immigration. At 5812 the Loving Hut is our new Vegan Restaurant.
TURN LEFT/EAST at ARDMORE, cross BROADWAY. To your left is Judge Fisher Apartments, a city sponsored senior
building, built in 1971, and currently managed by Habitat which also was responsible for the Pines of Edgewater
project which renovated over a dozen buildings as part of ECC’s Operation Winthrop Kenmore in the 1980s.
GOING EAST, next to it is a loft conversion at 1128 W Ardmore of an old Com Ed power substation, that almost
became a late night sports bar before ECC and community protests put a halt to those plans. Before you go under
the viaduct, note the green tile work on the building on the south side of the street. This was a common
decorative element on buildings in the 1920s.
CONTINUE walking EAST to the corner of ARDMORE & Winthrop. You may want to look a few doors to your north
at a wonderful historic Queen Anne/Craftsman home at 5822 N. Winthrop. This area from Bryn Mawr to Thorndale
was John Louis Cochran’s 1st addition to Edgewater in 1887, which followed on the heels of the original
development from Foster to Bryn Mawr. Cochran took out the permit for 5822 Winthrop in 1895. This home
                                                                                                               6

exhibits many design elements that George Washington Maher was known for, but only Cochran’s name appears
on the permit.
TURN RIGHT/SOUTH and walk down the 5700 block of Winthrop. Note some of the wood beam and turret features
on the buildings. Of interest is the fairly new condominium building at 5722, named the Rodham Arms, built where
once was a 6-flat that was the first home of US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, who was born in Edgewater
Hospital and lived on Winthrop until she was three years old when her family moved to Park Ridge.
Over the years ECC organized owners of the multi-unit properties on this, the 5700 block and 5930-6100 blocks of
North Winthrop in public safety initiatives that are now serving as models citywide. Rental standards developed
by property owners have been adopted in similar neighborhood initiatives.
CONTINUE walking SOUTH across HOLLYWOOD. Look at the SE corner and the beautiful Bay windows of the
“Beaconsfield” built by the prominent architect Jay Pridmore who did several buildings in Edgewater.
These blocks were part of Operation Winthrop-Kenmore, a partnership of the ECC, the city of Chicago Department
of Housing and Community Investment Corporation, a consortium of lending institutions that was launched in
1979-80, and saw the rehabilitation of 160 buildings (16 of them vacant) with 5200 units at a total investment of
$75 million. As a major ECC accomplishment, it targeted severely deteriorated housing stock on Winthrop and
Kenmore between Devon and Foster. Operation WK brought rampant redlining to an end as it tackled the “spine”
of the Edgewater Community.
YOU ARE APPROACHING the intersection of Bryn Mawr and Winthrop and the Bryn Mawr Historic District. At the
behest of 48th ward Alderman Mary Ann Smith, the ECC’s Bryn Mawr Task Force and the Edgewater Development
Corporation, the US Department of the Interior designated a national historic district from Broadway to the
lakefront, officially announced in July 1996. Bryn Mawr Avenue was named in the 1880s by Edgewater’s developer
John Lewis Cochran after Bryn Mawr station on the Main Line north of Philadelphia.[2] Bryn Mawr is Welsh for Big
Hill.
TURN LEFT/EAST onto Bryn Mawr and on the NE corner is the Belle Shore Apartments where you will find the
lighthouse at

                              BRIDGEVIEW BANK

   E                          1058 W. BRYN MAWR

                              Artists: Jill Zylke


the once Belle Shore Hotel, developed by Max Malter and named for his wife Belle in 1928-29. The architects of
this remarkable Art Deco style building were the firm of Koenigsberg and Weisfeld. It was recognized as a Chicago
Landmark on January 20, 1999, restored recently as part of the National Historic District designation for Bryn
Mawr Avenue. The terra cotta shows the Egyptian design influence with accents of black and gold. Earlier in the
decade, the discovery of King Tut’s tomb sparked an interest in Egyptian design. The business first located on
this property before the hotel was built, however, was the Edgewater Grocery Company owned and
operated by James McManus, the very first business in Edgewater. Diagonally across the street from
this on the southwest corner of Bryn Mawr and Winthrop was the Guild Hall built by J.L. Cochran,
founder of Edgewater. It was eventually torn down and replaced in 1927 by the present building,
which used to house Leo A. Schueneman’s bowling alley and billiard parlor .

CONTINUE EAST to the
                                                                                                                7


                               LAKEFRONT REALTY – MARION VOLINI, OWNER

    F                          1048 W. BRYN MAWR

                               Artists: Craig, Marcella & Camille Landis


This is now the home to Lakefront Group Realty in Edgewater, owned by Marion Kennedy Volini, a prominent past
president of the Edgewater Community Council, and currently co-chair of the ECC 50th Anniversary Committee.
Marion was elected alderman of the 48th Ward in 1978-1987, and instituted many reforms including a commitment
to community based zoning and land use process that has continued to this day under subsequent aldermen of the
48th Ward.
Across the street is the Bryn Mawr Hotel Apartments located at 1043-1049 W. Bryn Mawr Ave. It is a 12-story
gothic-inspired building that was built on the original property of the Edgewater Presbyterian Church, during the
early 1900s when hotel apartments were popular in this area. Rehabbed in the 1990s, it became an important
anchor for the designation of Bryn Mawr as a National Historic District.
CONTINUE EAST on Bryn Mawr past Zanzibar, a new café and ice cream parlor. On the NE corner is the Edgewater
Presbyterian Church, which hired famed architect G. W. Maher for its building.
LOOKING ACROSS BRYN MAWR is “The Manor House” (on the National Register of Historic Places), by architect
J.E.O. Pridmore, originally housed only six apartment homes - two to a floor. It probably was the grandest 6-flat
ever built in Chicago. Because the building reflects its English Tudor heritage and because the crest above the
courtyard is that of England, it has been rumored for years that it was the home of the British consulate. This
rumor, however, has never been confirmed. Sidney Smith, the creator of the Andy Gump cartoon strip, lived there
until the ‘30s.


WALKING TO THE SOUTH EAST CORNER OF SHERIDAN AND BRYN MAWR

                              LAKEFRONT REALTY GROUP – ALICE CASEY

   G                          5555 N. SHERIDAN

                              Artists: (Beth Tenney & Friends and Anna Held Florist


Built in 1928 as the Edgewater Beach Apartments, it was designed by architect Benjamin H. Marshall to
complement the look of the by then famous Edgewater Beach hotel to its south which had been built in 1916 and
later demolished in 1969-70. This building is often confused with the hotel. Before this building opened the
southeast corner of Bryn Mawr and Sheridan was an empty lot with the transmitter of radio station WEBH on part
of it. Residents and passers-by could come down to listen to the beautiful music being broadcast from the
Boardwalk at the Edgewater Beach Hotel. At the end of the 19th century, there was a street end beach at this site!
This large pink building is the iconic soul of Edgewater and also listed on the National Register of Historic.
Benjamin Marshall was the designer of the Hotel’s buildings, the Drake Hotel, and the South Shore Country Club.
IF YOU KEEP WALKING EAST, under the viaduct is a beautiful bricolage created by neighborhood residents and the
Chicago Public Arts Group. This is considered one of the eastern gateways to Edgewater.
RETURN to or FROM the SW corner of Sheridan and Bryn Mawr walk south on the west side of Sheridan to 5510 N.
Sheridan, the Renaissance, a 1927 apartment house listed in the National Register of Historic Places, which had
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been a dramatic change in the housing of Edgewater that brought with it the concept of an apartment home, large
enough to become a place of residence for the wealthy urbanites.
The town of Edgewater changed when the urban transportation system connected it to downtown. A building
boom followed immediately. First came two-flats, three-flats and six-flats. These were built all over Edgewater
between 1908 and 1920. Most were two bedroom and one bath units.


CONTINUE SOUTH on Sheridan past three hi-rises built in the 1970s on the grounds of the former Edgewater Beach
Hotel to

                               BRIDGEVIEW BANK

   H                           5345 N. SHERIDAN

                               Artists: Alternatives


this Bridgeview Bank location, found in the complex with the Breakers senior citizens building. This is exactly
where The Edgewater Beach Hotel (5349 N. Sheridan) was located built in 1916 bringing many celebrities and
wealthy persons to the community, when Chicago was a major railway stopover in the US. It was torn down in
1970 to make way for condominiums and high rises along Sheridan Road.
The Edgewater Beach Hotel, owned by John Tobin Connery and James Patrick Connery, was a yellow and white
shade on the exterior and comprised of two buildings: the first built in 1916, was in an X shape, had 8 floors and
400 rooms; the second building opened in 1924 and was 18 stories high with 600 rooms. The EBH is an important
historic icon of Edgewater that brought much fame and celebrity to Edgewater during its heyday when it was a
major resort with a lakeside boardwalk before the 1950s extension of Lakeshore Drive took away its lakefront and
airlines took celebrities over Chicago instead of through.

The complex had a private beach and offered seaplane service to downtown Chicago. During its lifetime, the hotel
served many famous guests including Marilyn Monroe, Frank Sinatra, Judy Garland, Charlie Chaplin, Bette Davis,
Tallulah Bankhead, and Nat King Cole, and U.S. Presidents Franklin D. Roosevelt and Dwight D. Eisenhower. The
hotel was known for hosting big bands such as the bands of Benny Goodman, Tommy Dorsey, Glenn Miller, Artie
Shaw, Xavier Cugat, and Wayne King, which were also broadcast on the hotel’s own radio station, a precursor to
WGN with the calls WEBH.

On June 14, 1949, Philadelphia Phillies first baseman Eddie Waitkus was shot and nearly killed by an obsessive fan
at the hotel; this later would be a large part of the inspiration behind Bernard Malamud’s novel The Natural. The
1951–54 extension of Lake Shore Drive from Foster Avenue to Hollywood Avenue cut the hotel off from the beach
leading to a reduction in business. The hotel closed in 1967.

At Berwyn and Sheridan behind the Dominic’s is the Saddle & Cycle Club. Sheridan Road north of
Foster was still beaches and sand dunes at the beginning of the twentieth century, when the club was
built. John L. Cochran was the first president of the Saddle & Cycle, a privately run club for boating,
golf, tennis, horseback riding and cycling.

TURN RIGHT on to BERWYN from Sheridan and walk WEST towards the stone Church. This is Epworth United
Methodist. Cochran gave the land for this church and for the Church of the Atonement on Ardmore and Kenmore.
This is also the clothing pantry for CARE for Real, started by ECC.
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CONTINUE WEST along BERWYN past Ollie’s Bar at 1064, The Kitchen Sink Café at 1107, Fortuna Shoes at 1111,
Steep Theater at 1115 (one of the MANY live theaters companies in the Edgewater area), under the viaduct and
past the CTA Berwyn station (from this spot you can get a 146 express bus to the Chicago Museum Campus and
downtown), past Aroma pizza and the strip mall to the corner of Berwyn and Chicago.
CROSS BROADWAY to Coffee Chicago and TURN RIGHT/NORTH. You will pass La Fonda Latino Grill; across the
street is the Golden Pacific Market, Saber-Dee Laotian Cuisine.
TURN LEFT/WEST at the corner of BROADWAY & BALMORAL and you are in the Lakewood Balmoral Historic
District. Walk WEST along BALMORAL and note the brick alley behind the Church.
WALK NORTH up the alley to CATALPA &TURN RIGHT/EAST to BROADWAY and look east at the new “Euro Style Hi-
rises” Catalpa Gardens completed in 2006 with glass walkways connecting the buildings.
ACROSS Broadway is the office of the local elected officials at 5533-35 N Broadway. There you can contact
Alderman Mary Ann Smith, State Senator Heather Steans, State Representative Harry Osterman, Congressperson
Jan Schakowsky, and Commissioner Bridget Gainer.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________

  OFF                           HON. HARRY OSTERMAN, State Representative
  TOUR
  MAP                           5535 N. BROADWAY

                                Artists: Peggy, Jack, Harry Jr., and Katie Osterman

Not on the tour map, but take a look at the newest entry to the growing Edgewater lighthouse family, spiffed up
by the Osterman family artists. Harry, a proud past ECC President, got an early start as a member of the ECC
Bubble Gum Forum, along with his brother Mathew and other Edgewater youth, who first recommended that the
Broadway Armory be used as a park district facility, when his mother Kathy was ECC Recreation Chair and later ECC
President.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________


One block north is the 5 way intersection of Broadway, Bryn Mawr and Ridge. This pentagramic intersection is
home to The Enchanted Mystic Shop at 5553 N Broadway and Alchemy Arts at 1203 W Bryn Mawr.
Edgewater has only one intersection that results in five corners. It is the intersection of Broadway, Ridge, and Bryn
Mawr. Interestingly, with the exception of the old Guild Hall that stood east of the “L” tracks at the southwest
corner of Bryn Mawr and Winthrop, it is Edgewater’s oldest commercial district. What is remarkable is that four of
the five corners are occupied by the original structures that date before 1900!
It is also the site of Operation Ridge, an ECC initiative that tackled the sale of mismanaged and crime-plagued
buildings and the upgrading of housing stock and living conditions in an area that stretches along Ridge from
Broadway to Clark. Operation Ridge was funded by a US Department of Housing and Urban Development grant.
RETURN to BRAODWAY and CATALPA and ST. Ita’s Church . Although the plan of St. Ita’s was influenced by certain
features of the famous cathedrals of Chartres and Brou in France, it was mainly the work of architect Henry J.
Schlacks. The church is built of limestone, quarried in Indiana, and its walls are four feet thick. The medallion
windows, patterned after the windows at Chartres, are made up of 200,000 pieces of glass.

On September 14, 1924, the Most Rev. Edward F. Hoban, Auxiliary Bishop of Chicago, blessed and laid the
cornerstone for the new church. In it is embedded a black stone from the ruins of the convent St. Ita, founded in
Killeedy centuries ago.
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CONTINUE TO WALK WEST on CATALPA toward Magnolia Street. Note 1220 W. Catalpa is St. Ita’s Rectory, built in
1924, it is also on the National Registry of Historic Places.

This is in the heart of the Lakewood Balmoral Historic District. Cochran developed the area in stages, putting in
roads and sewers on Magnolia and Lakewood first and building several homes as models. Most of the oldest
homes were built on the blocks at the north section of the area. The first houses were built on Magnolia in 1892.
Over the next 12 years, the number of homes built gradually increased. Around 1896-97, Wayne Avenue was
paved and lots sold. Cochran waited until 1905 to sell lots on Glenwood. By that time, he had adjusted his plan to
allow three-flats along with two-flats on Glenwood. Among the architects who worked for Cochran was George
Washington Maher who, after a few years, in the late 1880s set up his own practice. He was a contemporary of
Frank Lloyd Wright who also worked for J.L. Cochran in the early years as a draftsman.

Other architects of homes in Lakewood Balmoral include Neils Buck, who was responsible for more than 10
Lakewood Balmoral homes. Buck lived on the 5300 block of Kenmore. Julius Huber lived on the 5500 block of
Lakewood and was responsible for at least six Lakewood Balmoral homes. Architectural firms like Holabird and
Roche, Leon Stanhope, Murphy and Camp, Strippleman and Carl Almquist designed unique homes in the area. The
actual builders (general contractors and carpenters) were part of the original Swedish community, with names like
Carlson, Olson and Osterlund. There are at least 10 Lakewood Balmoral homes listed as potential landmarks by the
City of Chicago Historic Resource Survey.

According to the permit applications, a few homes were built in 1893, a few more in 1894-95 and then a few more
in 1898-99. The first homes were scattered on the eight blocks of Lakewood and Magnolia. Cochran had not yet
paved Wayne and there were tennis courts there. West of the Third Addition, construction continued at a slow
pace. As late as 1905, there was still a working farm at the corner of Glenwood and Catalpa (Claremont) and there
was another farm at Clark Street (Green Bay Road). One of the early residents on Wayne recalled in an interview
that she couldn’t sleep because of the smell of rotting cabbages in the fields in the fall. Construction on Wayne did
not begin until after 1900 and, on Glenwood (Southport), until after 1905. Although Cochran was building a
suburb, it looked like it was really quite far out in the country. There were few stores, only a cluster of buildings at
Foster and Clark and a grocery store on Bryn Mawr. Broadway (Evanston) was not originally planned for
commercial development, but an ice plant, stables and coal yards were built along the railroad tracks.
CONTINUE WEST on CATALPA. At Catalpa and Wayne TURN LEFT/SOUTH on WAYNE. Walk on block south on
Wayne to Balmoral

                               Elected Officials: Smith, Osterman,Schakowsky, Steans

     I                         5400 N. WAYNE

                               Artists: Ald. Mary Ann Smith


This building was built around 1912 as a single-family residence in the national historic district of the Lakewood
Balmoral neighborhood, which was the third phase of Edgewater construction by developer J.L. Cochran around
1890. For this neighborhood (first constructed as a subdivision), 4 acres were subdivided into 768 lots. The 16
block area was bound by North 59th Street (Foster) on the south, Evanston Avenue (Broadway) on the east,
Southport (Glenwood) on the west, and Bryn Mawr on the north.
5400 N. Wayne is located at the intersection of Wayne and Balmoral. The street Balmoral is named after Balmoral
Castle, a favorite residence of Queen Victoria in Scotland. Cochran was of Scottish descent and named many street
names after his personal background as well as life in Philadelphia (Wayne is another street name and station
along the Main Line in Philadelphia).
                                                                                                                 11

CONTINUE WEST on BALMORAL Right before Clark Street at 1477 W Balmoral is Great Lake Pizza The June 2009
issue of GQ named this eccentric spot as the having the best pizza in America according to their food writer. At the
intersection of Balmoral and Clark on the NE corner us a Taste of Heaven, in case you need a good cupcake.


CROSS CLARK St and continue WEST 1 block to ASHLAND. On the SW corner is



                               EDGEWATER HISTORICAL SOCIETY

   JC                          5358 N. ASHLAND

                               Artists: Kathy Gemperle & Elizabeth Szegho


The Edgewater Historical Society museum has been in this location since 2002; originally it was a Chicago Fire
Department station of Company 77 from the 1920s until 1979. Even before this station was built, a wooden fire
house with horse stalls was built in 1890 to accommodate the newly-added community of Lakeview (which
Edgewater was part of when annexed in 1889). The redesign and renovation was done by Edgewater architects
Green & Proppe Design, Inc. EHS was incorporated in 1988, after ECC had held a successful oral history project.


TURN AROUND and GO BACK TO CLARK Street, past the metal rooster atop the Sunburst & Green Sky gift shop
garage,


TURN RIGHT/SOUTH at Clark & Balmoral past the Swedish Bakery to the



                               US BANK

   K                           5340 N. CLARK

                               Artists: Adriana Teolis & Bank Staff


Here stands U.S. Bank along Clark Street at the site of the original Community Bank and Trust of Edgewater
founded by the family of Austin “Bud” Wyman, a past board member of the Edgewater Community Council and a
founder of the Edgewater Historical Society, after whom the annual Wyman Lecture is dedicated. The first bank
located along this historic street in Andersonvile, a neighborhood of Edgewater, was located at 5400 N. Clark St.,
built in 1913 as the Swedish American State Bank (Later the Capital State Savings Bank). The architects were
Ottenheimer, Stern and Reichert.
Next to U.S. Bank is the Swedish Bakery, which first opened in 1928 by the Johnson family. For the first 51 years,
the establishment changed ownership four times, and in 1979 Marlies Stanton, a pastry chef from Europe who
worked at the bakery, purchased the bakery when the owner retired.
KEEP WALKING SOUTH past Pars Cove, the Swedish Deli and SVEA to the corner of FARRAGUT and CLARK.
This area is known as Andersonville. In 1889 Andersonville and Edgewater were annexed to the city of Chicago.
Edgewater lost its official identity when it was merged with Uptown in the early 1920’s, and the whole area was
                                                                                                                12

called Uptown for nearly six decades. In 1980, under the aegis of the ECC, Edgewater was separated from Uptown
and reestablished as a distinct community area (#77) in the City of Chicago with boundaries of Foster on the south,
Devon on the North, Ravenswood on the West, and Lake Michigan on the East. Andersonville has always retained
its own identity as a business district, and sits primarily within the Edgewater’s community area.
CROSS CLARK STREET AT FARRAGUT to the Swedish Horse Sculpture on the corner, called a Dala (pronounced
Dawla) Horse, and it’s a famous Swedish fold craft that dates back over 300 years. It’s traditionally red and
sometimes blue. The Swedish American Museum is just a ½ block south at 5211 N Clark street.
WALK NORTH on CLARK Street past the Trillium Boutique. Peek in at the Andersonville Galleria at 5247 N Clark
(NYTimes in Dec 2009 called it the “go-to spot for handmade jewelry, clothing and other wares, most made locally
by an eclectic mix of artists and designers who rent space month to month.)
Keep walking NORTH to the LIGHTHOUSE at

                               ANDIES MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT

    L                          5253 N. CLARK

                               Artists: Nelson Herrera


Andie’s Mediterranean Restaurant, just one of many located in the heart of Andersonville, which derived it’s
name from Swedes who heavily populated this area in the early to mid 20th century, as Anderson is a popular
Swedish name. The name “Andersonville” is speculated to come from several residents in the area: either a
farmer named Anderson; or named after Andersen School, the first school in Edgewater where Trumbull School
now stands.



Continue WALKING NORTH on CLARK past Paper Trail at 5399, Toys and Treasures at 5317, and Kopi – a Travelers’
Café at 5317. If your feet are hurting from all this walking then stop in and check out the selection of great
footwear at Alamo Shoes at 5321 N Clark.
CONTINUE WALKING NORTH past Big Jones Café, Mista, Jewish Deli and Pharmacy. At 5545 N Clark look at the
Louis Sullivan-ish Tiles on the Capital Garage Building.

Once upon a time, a least four independent banks called Edgewater home. The premier bank was the
Capital State Savings Bank, which opened in 1913 at 5400 N. Clark, and was one of the first state
banks in the nation to join the newly formed Federal Reserve System. Nine years later it moved up the
street to new quarters at 5435 N. Clark. Both Capital State Bank buildings still stand, though given
over to other uses. The building at the northwest corner of Clark and Balmoral is clad in white terra
cotta and has some impressive trim, of which the eagle is the most noteworthy. The imposing structure
at 5435 N. Clark has housed the Philadelphia Church for years

CONTINUE WALKING NORTH to the intersection of Edgewater and Clark by the La Baguette Bakery at 5712 N Clark.
They have a great neon birthday cake sign on the north side of the building, then
                                                                                                                 13


                               GESTHEMANE GARDEN CENTER – (2)
   M
                               5739 N. CLARK

                               Artists: Lisa Haskin


CROSS OVER to the GREEN ISLAND/PARK in the center. There is a small fountain with a memorial to Peaches, the
affectionate name for Rosalie Peachie Siegel, who worked at Gesthemane’s for over 20 years before her death in
1997. These specially constructed 10 ft tall lighthouses stand in the Memorial Park. The open area was set up as a
monument to those who died in foreign wars. There is an obelisk and walkways around it. The Gethsemane
Garden Center continues to beautify the place and parkway.
Part of the Gethsemane Garden Center is currently located in a commercial building built in 1897 by Anton
Gochengio; it was used originally used as The Winandy Saloon in 1899, and later Scheurs, and then Schmidts
Tavern. After World War Two it had become a VFW Post. Also, part of the site held the Hansen’s greenhouses in
1894.
The Gethsemane Garden Center opened in 1978 by owner Regas Chevas, who expanded the business in 1995 to
include the Wild Pansy Gift Shop . Chevas and his family started the business 55 years ago selling pumpkins on
Devon Avenue. Now comprising two full blocks, he first was selling pumpkins, flowers, and Christmas trees out of
his truck on a small corner of the current garden center.
CONTINUE NORTH on CLARK Street past the Philippine Plaza Market to RIDGE and Clark. A White Castle stands on
the SW corner of this busy intersection.
CROSS RIDGE and CONTINUE NORTH on CLARK Street. On the NE corner is Senn Park. Led by the ECC, 20
community Groups reached consensus and developed the Senn Park Master Plan for parkland that abuts Senn
High School. It included the City’s acquisition of property at the northeast corner of Ridge and Clark and expansion
of the Chicago Park District and facilities. This park is anchored by a statue of a young Abraham Lincoln almost
exactly where stood the Seven Mile House, built by Nicholas Kransz a Luxembourger celery farmer who first
arrived in the area around 1848. This was the first notable structure in Edgewater and it served as a stopping off
place for people traveling from Chicago to Milwaukee.
CONTINUE NORTH on CLARK Street past the Joel Hall Dancers at 5965, and the Gaztro Wagons – modern street
fare at 5973 to the intersection of ELMDALE and PETERSON. Look left a couple of blocks to the Heart O’ Chicago
Motel and its big neon sign. To the right down the street is Immanuel Lutheran Church which resembles a wooden
ship inside.
CONTINUE NORTH on CLARK to NORWOOD to




                               BRIDGEVIEW BANK GROUP
   N
                               6041 N. CLARK

                               Artists: McCormick Boys & Girls Club


another branch of Bridgeview Bank . Across Clark Street is the new Chicago Fire Department Engine Company No.
70. Note the solar panels.
                                                                                                               14

The Edgewater Beautiful Committee, a major ECC committee, organized Edgewater’s first Earth Day, initiated
assorted projects to beautify neighborhoods and street corners, devised an environmental plan for Edgewater and
serves as the catalyst of newly implemented green community efforts, with its pioneering sustainability study
which evolved from those efforts.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________

 OFF                           HON. MICHAEL & MAUREEN VOLINI & FAMILY
 TOUR
 MAP                           1417 W. NORWOOD

                               Artists: Maureen, Emily, and Mike, Jr. Volini

Not on the tour map, but you may want to scoot down Norwood to see this newer entry to the ECC lighthouse
family at the home of the co-crew chief of the lighthouse construction crew, Mike Volini, our wonderful former
Democratic Ward Committeeman of the 48th Ward who served with distinction from 1991-2007.
______________________________________________________________________________________________

CONTINUE NORTH on past Glenlake and go one more block to Hood. TURN RIGHT/EAST on HOOD. On the south
side of Hood Street about midway down the block is

                              DARRYL & PATRICIA LEVINE
   O
                              1513 W. HOOD

                              Artists: Jeanne & John Riley


this 1908 home in Edgewater Glen, one of Edgewater’s first neighborhoods as a suburb of Chicago, owned by
Darryl and Patricia Levine; it is around the corner from the boyhood home of Clayton Moore (6254 N. Glenwood)
who went on to become TV’s “Lone Ranger”.

Continue walking east to the intersection, and TURN LEFT/NORTH on GREENVIEW and go one block to GRANVILLE..
On the SE corner of Granville and Greenview is the Masjid Noor Mosque. On the NW corner is the Stephen Hayt
School. The ECC’s Education Committee has taken steps to ameliorate overcrowded conditions at our local public
schools especially Hayt and Peirce Schools. They brokered a lunchroom addition for Hayt, and teaching some of
Swift schools 7th and 8th graders at Senn. The ECC successfully intercepted and blocked a plan that called for
residential development on Warren Parkland and instead reallocated the construction funds for additions to other
schools including Goudy, Swift, Hayt and Peirce.
TURN RIGHT/EAST on GRANVILLE past St Gertrude’s whose campus spans both sides of Granville on Glenwood.
St. Gertrude’s is the home of the Northside Catholic Academy.
A small detour to the NORTH will bring you to 6254 N Glenwood - The modest exterior of the solid, red brick with
white trim house belies its fascinating history as the boyhood home of an American legend - The Lone Ranger.
Return to Granville and On the SE corner note the interesting terraces on the LaDonna at 1351-55 W Granville.
Keep walking East past the Granville Avenue United Methodist Church at Lakewood and Granville. The little tin
sign at the SW corner describes it as the “Country Church of the City.”
                                                                                                                   15

TAKE A BRIEF RIGHT AT LAKEWOOD to Hood and then RIGHT to 1318, you will find

                                DAVID & LISA VOLINI
   P
                                1318 W. HOOD

                                Artists: David & Lisa Volini


this 1906 brick 2 flat home of David and Lisa Volini and family; it is the home of the lighthouses’ “prime contractor”
whose basement was the launching pad for all the lighthouses in this celebratory tour. Thanks, David and Lisa.

Then head back to Granville, and Continue EAST on Granville to BROADWAY. CROSS BROADWAY at GRANVILLE.
On the SE corner is the LIGHTHOUSE of




                                BANANAS FOSTER
   R
                                1147 W. GRANVILLE

                                Artists: Abby Strozinski & Nathan Blanke


Bananas Foster Café is located in the North Edgewater Beach neighborhood. This is the second edition to the
Edgewater development built by John Louis Cochran, a tobacco salesman from Philadelphia who developed
Edgewater as a suburb in the mid 1880s. Just down the street is the Sovereign Apartment Hotel, built in 1922,
when apartment hotels were popular, drawing new residents after the new train station was built on Granville and
Winthrop.
TURN LEFT/NORTH and cross Granville to the newly constructed Clarovista Apartments. WALK EAST along the
building past some of the Edgewater Artist in Motion works to the LIGHTHOUSE that sits next to the painting of
the cover of the Edgewater Cookbook.

                                B & R DEVELOPERS
   Q
                                6201 N. BROADWAY

                                Artists: John Garrison


B and R Developers is owned by Bob and Rae Ann Cercle who were early “pioneers” in the Edgewater Community
Council’s Operation Winthrop Kenmore. They were early believers in the community’s future and invested their
time, energy, and expertise into the redevelopment of rental housing in Edgewater. Rae Ann is also a past
president of ECC and continues a very active role in the community including launching the 50th Anniversary
Cookbook.


CONTINUE WALKING EAST under the viaduct for the CTA Redline station, across the street is Gino’s North, at 1111
W Granville, where Peggy makes great pizza, and past the new “traffic calming corners”. With the Granville Task
Force, the ECC mounted a successful vote dry of two problem businesses on Granville at Winthrop and petitioned
                                                                                                                 16

Loyola University to establish a security outpost or safe haven on the 1100 block. Continue past the Thai Grill, and
across the street the Metropolis Coffee Shop.
CROSS SHERIDAN ROAD at Granville There are 3 mansions at this intersection. On the West side of Sheridan Road
is Sacred Heart Academy, a private Elementary school, and on the East Side is Berger Park and the North Lakeside
Cultural Center.




                             NORTH LAKESIDE CULTURAL CENTER
   D
                             6219 N. SHERIDAN

                             Artists: Moscosco, Lim, Maragon, Rice, Qian, Harrigan ,
                             Aragon Ordonez, Lunkheimer, Enriquez ( J and D)

This 1910 former home of Pozzinni Pharmaceutical Company owner S.H. Gunder, now the location of the North
Lakeside Cultural Center, was originally designed by Myron Henry Church, with a French influence in the distinct
mansard roof and stone medallions with floral designs, as well as a Prairie school design influence in the ribbon
windows and simple straightforward woodwork design.
The Viatorian Fathers purchased this building in the 1940s to house student priests. In late 1979 there were plans
to build two massive high rises on the property, but the Edgewater Community Council immediately rallied the
community to save both the buildings with Federal, local, and private support and to turn it into the cultural
center in 1988. The site also includes a café building and two buildings for Park District programs.


After the turn of the century many large homes were built along Sheridan Road. The two in Berger Park and the
red brick home owned by Sacred Heart at the corner of Granville and Sheridan are fine examples of these custom
homes. The home owned by Sacred Heart was once the meeting place of the North End Women’s club. Each home
has a unique architectural form which was called eclectic because it combined the elements of many historical
styles. In 1910 The Book of the North Shore published photographs of many of those beautiful homes along
Sheridan Road in Edgewater.
But the Depression also had a negative effect on the beautiful single family homes. Owners no longer had the
funds for the upkeep and management of these homes which required servants to run them. Their original owners
grew older and often had to give them up or sell them for other uses. Some became nursing homes like the one at
6159 N. Kenmore. Others were willed to charitable groups like the red brick home owned by Sacred Heart Schools
and others were offered to religious orders as housing for students attending Loyola University like the homes in
Berger Park. A few became fraternity houses for Loyola students.
WALK SOUTH down Sheridan Road 4 blocks to THORNDALE. On the NE corner is Emmanuel Congregation, a
Reform temple, first incorporated on Chicago’s north side in 1898, moving to the Edgewater site in 1954. In 1955
Rabbi Herman Schaalman assumed the leadership and also became a leader in forming the Edgewater Clergy and
Rabbi Association, which later was the prime mover in the formation of ECC in 1960. An internationally recognized
scholar and advocate for interfaith communications, he still lives in Edgewater with his wife Lotte and serves as
Rabbi Emeritus.
ACROSS THE STREET at the Northwest Corner of Thorndale and Sheridan is The Colvin House at 5901 North
Sheridan; designed in 1909 by George W. Maher, this residence was built for Alexander R. Colvin, a physician, and
his wife, Sarah Tarleton Colvin, a founder of the Minnesota Nurses Association and an activist in the suffrage
movement. Sarah Colvin was chairperson from 1915-1920 of the Minnesota branch of the Congressional Union
                                                                                                                      17

(later the National Woman’s Party). She was jailed twice in 1918 in Washington, D.C. for displaying a suffrage
banner in front of the White House and for burning President Woodrow Wilson in effigy. When this house was
built it was not connected to the city water and sewer system. The Colvins dug their own well. . It was designated
a Chicago Landmark on October 5, 1994.
This large-scale residence, one of the most distinguished to survive along Sheridan Road, epitomizes the distinctive
architectural style of its designer. Dominant central entries, broad hipped roofs, bold rectangular massing, and
complementary landscaping are common features of the work of this well-known architect, who began his career
working for Frank Lloyd Wright.
On the SE corner is the George B Lane Park No. 517 with a new playground. You can walk down to the water and
look at the Edgewater Signal Light – our real “Lighthouse” of a sort. Edgewater’s Lakefront is a vital part of the ECC
mission. Monitoring pollution and shoreline protection dominated ECC’s efforts involving its magnificent eastern
boundary. Beach clean-ups have been regular activities of ECC for decades. Operation Lake Watch, a volunteer
effort, saw the ongoing monitoring and clean-up of contaminated waters. “Edgewater’s Lakefront: The Next Mile”
launched with the Association of Sheridan Condominium-Cooperative Owners and the Illinois-Indiana Sea Grant
Program, served as an innovative design charette to generate and explore alternatives for the development of
Edgewater’s portion of Lake Michigan. Eight Proposals were turned over to the Chicago Shoreline Protection
Committee. Edgewater residents and ECC continue to be passionately involved in lakefront issues. Just south at
Ardmore is the Kathy Osterman Beach, appropriately dedicated to a past president of ECC who was the driving
force for many community victories, particularly in the area of recreation and lakefront protection.
CROSS SHERIDAN and WALK WEST on THORNDALE WEST past SWIFT SCHOOL where the student body speaks
almost 50 different languages. A neo-classical design, Swift was opened in 1914 and honors Chicago’s 30th mayor,
George Bell Swift, entombed in Rosehill Cemetery less than a mile away. Swift was noted at the time of its
construction for its introduction of electric clocks. Today it is the only Chicago elementary school featuring a
swimming pool as part of its physical education program. A number of Balkan refugees also attend Swift. The ECC
attends to the needs of refugees through the Balkan outreach program, seniors through Team Edgewater, and at-
risk youngsters through the Youth Outreach Program. Among assistance is the Edgewater Resource Directory, an
exhaustive inventory of services in the community, and an Affordable Housing Directory to assist those seeking
safe and affordable living arrangements.
Continue walking WEST under the viaduct and CTA Redline station to the intersection of Thorndale and
Broadway. The ECC was among the organizations that reactivated the Thorndale Action Task Force, an initiative
aimed at reducing crime-related activities on the troubled 1100 block of Thorndale, home to the CTA, Swift School
and the Broadway Armory. ECC has also actively monitored CTA plans for service changes to the Edgewater
Community.
And then in the final stop of the tour, AT The Intersection of THORNDALE AND BROADWAY, TURN LEFT/SOUTH we
come to

                               BROADWAY ARMORY PARK – (Chicago Park District)
     T
                               5917 N. BROADWAY

                               Artists: David & Lisa Volini

the location of the Broadway Armory Park, first constructed in 1916 as the Winter Garden Ice Skating Rink, as well
as an indoor roller skating rink (architects Carpenter and Weldon), After World War One, the state purchased the
Broadway Armory and trained members of the Illinois National Guard for years. This 87-year-old building houses 5
gymnasia and 13 rooms for its current use as a community recreational center. The Edgewater Community Council
was the leading community force to obtain this facility as a Park District Facility in a multi decade effort, starting in
1979 when ECC’s “Bubble Gum Forum” recommended more organized programs and facilities in Edgewater, taking
                                                                                                                   18

aim at the Armory. ECC kept up relentless pressures on public officials. As a major civic accomplishment, ECC
spearheaded the drive to transfer occupancy and leased use of the Broadway Armory from the Illinois National
Guard to the Chicago Park District in 1985.            In 1996, 11 years later, ECC amassed 22,000 signatures and
successfully averted the State of Illinois plan to sell and convert the Armory to a commercially operated facility. At
a cost of $500,000, the CPD officially acquired the building and its adjacent parking lot in July 1998. It now serves
as one of the city’s largest indoor park and recreational facilities.


As you complete this tour, we hope you will have obtained a greater appreciation of the great service that the
Edgewater Community Council has performed to keep Edgewater a viable and thriving urban community for the
past 50 years. We also hope you have learned more about the history of your community – a history to be proud
of. For more information you can contact ECC at 773.334.5609 or the Edgewater Historical Society at 773.506.4849.
_______________________________________________________________________________________________




                                             SPECIAL THANKS TO THE
                                           Edgewater Community Council
                                            50th Anniversary Committee
                                              Reggie Griffin – Co-chair
                                           Hon. Marion Volini – Co-chair


Members: Rae Ann Cecrle, Terry Clerkin, Susan Griffith, Kathy Kacen, Troy McMillian, Jim Ness, Bob Remer, Dave
Volini & Lisa, Mike Volini & Maureen, Killian Walsh. We also want to thank those who served on the committee
earlier in the commemoration year: Dawn Wyman, Lynne Pierce, Helen Murtaugh, Barbara Sloan.

AND VERY SPECIAL THANKS: We would have no lighthouses but for that special lighthouse crew who worked so
many nights and weekends building those beautiful beaming icons of Edgewater: thanks to brothers Mike and
Dave Volini, Glenn Johnson and Matt Stern, master carpenters, and both Edgewater boys, who helped Mike and
Dave build the lighthouses! Thanks to Mike Volini, Jr., for his help to build the lighthouses too! Go team!

				
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