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Many believe that skin care remains the - Industry experts agree

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Many believe that skin care remains the - Industry experts agree Powered By Docstoc
					    skin care tec h n o l og y




    Skin deep
                                 M
    Industry experts                            any believe that skin care remains the
                                                most promising business opportunity
                                                                                             Annanda Hughes, from Klapp Cosmetics,
                                                                                          says that stem cells are the source of all
    agree; with the ever                        for manufacturers and retailers alike.    human tissue, including the skin: “Stem cells
                                                And, it is easy to understand why –       have the capacity to divide or reproduce
    increasing number            women of all demographics desire more radiant,           indefinitely, but this ability deteriorates
    of technological             younger-looking skin, and when armed with a little
                                 product benefit information, they are often willing to
                                                                                          with age and under the impact of daily
                                                                                          environmental factors. Stem cell technology
    advancements in              pay substantially more for creams and lotions that       makes use of active ingredients to protect the
                                 promise to do more than just moisturise. However,        DNA of the stem cells, and in this way, they
    beauty technology            the key to selling these products is having a good       are able to maintain their quality and thus
                                 understanding of how they work, and the ability and      counteract premature ageing – the skin stem
    constantly heading           opportunity to relay this information to your clients.   cells are revitalised and can continue dividing
    down the pike,                                                                        to form high quality cells.”
                                 Stem cell technology
    there is still plenty        Stem cell technology has been a buzzword in the          Embryonic stem cells and
                                 skincare world for the last few years – companies        glyconutirents
    of untapped sales            are creating skincare products with specialised          Jaco van Niekerk from DNA Beauty and
    potential in skin            peptides and enzymes, or plant stem cells, which,
                                 when applied topically on the skin’s surface, helps
                                                                                          Healthcare explains: “Embryonic stem cells
                                                                                          are considered the first generation of stem
    care. Antonella              to protect the human skin stem cells from damage         cells – they have the ability to develop into
                                 and deterioration, or to stimulate the skin’s stem       any type of tissue. Then there are adult
    Dési explores some           cells and in the process, rejuvenate the appearance      stem cells – every one of us manufactures
    of the most popular          of the skin.
                                    Stem cells are characterised by their ability to
                                                                                          several thousands of them every day, most of
                                                                                          which are believed to be in the spinal cord.
    technologies in              renew themselves through mitotic cell division and       Embryonic stem technology can be very
                                 differentiate into a diverse range of specialised cell   dangerous, the effects of which will only be
    skin care and the            types. Products using skin cell technology work by       seen several months or years later. On the
                                 targeting adult skin stem cells and stimulating them     other hand, they can be a wonderful miracle
    way forward in the           to produce healthy, younger looking skin, naturally      cure for several conditions. So, which will it be
    future.                      within your body. Skin cell technology captures          – dangerous procedure or miracle cure? With
                                 liquid signals secreted by the adult stem cells in the   embryonic stem cell technology there will
                                 skin, and it uses the ingredients within the product     always be a percentage of risk because they
                                 in question to help the skin repair itself from the      have the potential to become any cell in the
                                 inside out.                                              human body, and they are therefore difficult



2   PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY JAN/FEB 2010
                                                                                                         s k i n c a r e t e c h n olog y

              CloCkwiSE from lEft to right:
              1. Dmk’s new Eye tone contains acetyl hexapetide-3
              (argireline), which peptide temporarily blocks the release of
              neurotransmitters that cause muscle contractions. Used at a 10%
              concentration, acetyl hexapeptide 3 has been shown to reduce the
              depth of wrinkles up to 30% after 30 days of trial use. Doctors are                                              3.
              beginning to recommend use of acetyl hexapeptide 3 skin serums
              in conjunction with paralytic injections to prolong those results.
              2. gatineau laboratories designed Activ Eclat, which boasts an
              exceptional skin brightening result thanks to the exclusive light
              Complex with vitamin C and a peptide from organically grown
              spelt wheat.
              3. mandelic acid is the main ingredient in DermaBright from
              Dermafix. it is derived from the hydrolysis of an extract of              1.                                                        4.
                                                                                                         2.
              bitter almonds and has been studied extensively for its uses in
              treating common skin problems, such as photo-ageing, irregular
              pigmentation and acne.
              4. Super Serum Advance from iS Clinical contains both               5.
              Pentapeptides and growth factors, and boasts very powerful
              antioxidant formulations. it has been designed to smooth skin
              texture, reduce scar tissue and stretch marks, diminish the
              appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, protect against UV damage,
              encourage and facilitate collagen production, and provide superior antioxidant
              protection, whilst the dermal structure of the skin is repaired and restored, thanks
              to the introduction of copper tripeptide growth factors.
              5. Visua Enzyme Accelerator is a gentle exfoliating cream that contains natural
              papaya extract. Papaya is one of nature’s richest sources of antioxidants and plays
              an important role in protecting the body and its cells.
              6. A Classic contains vitamin A influences the collagen structure and the enzyme
              activity of aging skin.
                                                                                                         6.



for scientists to control. As such, they can    disease, but should be taken as part of a        divide a multitude of times, meaning plant
develop into unintended types of cells in       healthy lifestyle. It cultivates cell-to-cell    stem cells can effectively fight the common
the human body and grow uncontrollably to       communication in the human body and              signs of human aging.
form tumors. Also, the problem surrounding      this action is believed to cause the body’s
rejection of embryonic cells by the immune      immune system and cells to work as               Peptides
system has yet to be overcome.                  they were designed to, which promises to         Many skin care products today include
   “Adult stem cell technology on the other     keep you healthier and looking younger           peptides to help treat wrinkles. But what
hand, has been safely used in humans for        for longer.”                                     are peptides, and how do they work? Tanya
over 30 years, and there is no danger of                                                         Smith from Evolution Cosmetic explains:
immune system rejection with cells from         Plant stem cells                                 “The benefits of peptides stem from their
the patient’s own body. It is accepted          Plant stem cells can be extracted and            power to stimulate collagen production.
that stem cells from the bone marrow            used in a variety of skin care products to       Collagen is responsible for maintaining the
constitutes the constant renewal of cells in    boost the production of human skin stem          texture and elasticity of our skin. Aging, sun
the human body. However, there are some         cells and protect human skin stem cells          exposure and other environmental irritants
disadvantages, including the fact that they     from stress, thereby decreasing wrinkles         damage collagen in the skin and rob it of
exist in the body in very small numbers,        and producing younger, fresher-looking           its glow and smooth texture. These factors
and are difficult to grow in a laboratory,      skin. These small cells are totipotent,          also reduce the skin’s ability to produce
making it an extremely expensive                which means they are able to continuously        collagen. Peptides help the skin to produce
technology,” van Niekerk explains.              regenerate new, whole plants. Plant stem         more collagen, which offsets the signs of
   He says that several clinical studies have   cells are useful for human skin, as they         aging.”
been done with regards to stem cells and        are able to perform the same functions as           Ursula Volbrecht, from Spa Professionals,
glyconutrients, showing that the body may       human epidermal stem cells, except they          explains how peptides help to smooth lines:
naturally synthesise its own stem cells         are more adept at replenishing the skin          “Collagen is what gives skin its support
when it has the proper glyconutrients: “Dr.     and fighting common signs of aging, like         and thickness. Young people boast a lot
Reg McDaniel and his science team have          wrinkles and crow’s feet.                        of collagen but more mature people have
conducted some fascinating studies and             With age, human epidermal stem cells          much less collagen, and that is why their
have clinically proven that glyconutrients      are slow to renew themselves and only last       skin looks thinner and wrinkled. Collagen
can significantly boost the number of           for a particular number of cell divisions.       is a protein and is made up long chains of
stem cells cultivated in the body. The          Due to the slow regeneration of epidermal        amino acids strung together. When collagen
best news of all is that glyconutrients are     stem cells, over time, lost or dying cells       is broken down, short segments of three to
not drugs, but a natural plant-sourced          outnumber their replacements and the skin’s      five amino acids form, and these are called
food for the cells and good for the human       health declines, causing the common signs        peptides,
body. Glyconutrients are not intended           of aging. The totipotency of plant stem          "Peptides signal your skin to manufacture
to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any        cells, however, allows one plant stem cell to    more collagen, and applied directly to >>



                                                                                                PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY JAN/FEB 2010            3
    skin care tec h n o l og y


       your skin, will trick it into thinking that                                                   toP lEft: the majority of the products in
    it has recently lost collagen and has to                                                         the mama mio range contain the newest
    manufacture more, thus smoothing lines                                                           and hottest plant-based technologies,
    and wrinkles. Peptides are also involved in                                                      including essential fatty acids, omega 3,
    immune activity, hormone regulation and                                                          6 and 9 obtained from plant sources such
    inter-cellular communication.”                                                                   as borage oil, evening primrose oil, gold
       Some peptides can block transmission                                                          of pleasure oils and avocado oil.
    of signals from nerves to your facial                                                            BElow lEft: klapp’s C Pure fluid is
    muscles, in particular neuropeptides.                                                            a light moisture fluid with vitamin C,
    If absorbed all the way through the                                                              hyaluronic acid and aloe vera for the care
    skin to the level of the muscle, then it                                                         of normal and moisture lacking skin.
    can act in a manner similar to Botox.
    Neuropeptides are sold in products often
    called wrinkle-relax or control creams.                                                             Mynard Pentz, from Klapp Cosmetics,
    Volbrecht offers examples of some useful                                                         explains that antioxidants can fulfill two
    peptides: “Acetyl hexapeptide is a peptide                                                       main functions when they are used in
    that has been marketed as a safer, less                                                          skincare products: "They fight free radicals
    expensive and milder alternative to Botox.                                                       in the skin and prevent oxidation of the
    Acetyl hexapeptide works by causing facial                                                       oils in the product, thereby preventing
    muscles to relax, thereby reducing the                                                           rancidity and increasing shelf life. He
    appearance of wrinkles. Peptides consist of                                                      says that there is a trend of using natural
    two amino acids linked together, attached                                                        anti-oxidants in products – these include:
    to a fatty acid, which enhances absorption                                                       vitamin E, vitamin C, vitamin A derivatives,
    into the skin. Oligopeptides stimulate the       preventing the oxidative action. Damaged        glutathione peroxidase, gingko biloba
    synthesis of collagen and hyaluronic acid in     skin cells lead to accelerated skin aging if    extract, licorice extrac, grape seed extract,
    the deep layers of the skin. It also provides    we don’t get antioxidant protection either      alpha lipoic acid.
    mild UV protection and helps protect the         from our diet or from topical application.”
    skin from sun damage. Acetyl tetrapeptide 9         Alison Yammin, from Thalgo, explains         ingredients of the future
    and 11, revitalise cell metabolism, as well as   that the role of antioxidants is to help        Kovandzhiyski identifies some important
    stimulate the production of syndecan-1, a        protect the skin and body from cellular and     ingredients as pivotal in future
    chemical that binds cells together.”             DNA damage to prevent signs of ageing           developments in skin care technology:
                                                     and skin damage: “Antioxidant botanicals        • Micro silver: It can play a major role
    Antioxidants                                     may reduce ROS activity either directly or      detoxifying the skin. Every person’s skin is
    Antioxidant is a term used to describe the       indirectly. The active constituents found       subjected to air and water pollution on a
    effect of oxidation in which an abnormal         in several antioxidant herbs are known          daily basis. Micro silver has the ability to
    level of reactive oxygen species (ROS), such     to react directly with ROS by scavenging        bind with heavy metals like mercury, lead
    as the free radicals (e.g. hydroxyl, nitric      and reducing ROS activity. In addition to       and cadmium, and even with insecticides
    acid, superoxide) lead to damage (called         scavenging, the active constituents found in    and pesticides, and form a compound that
    oxidative damage) to specific molecules          several antioxidant herbs can affect cellular   can be excreted from the body.
    with consequential injury to cells or tissue.    functions, including gene expression and        • Gold: Scientific research has shown that
    Debbie Cleaver, from Babor, elaborates:          enzymes that promote ROS dynamics.              many physiological functions depend on
    “Free radical damage can be caused by            The ability of antioxidant herbs to affect      the flow of electrons in the body. Gold has
    sunlight, pollution or by the presence of        various pathological processes mediated         a balancing effect on the body’s electrical
    oxygen. Anti-oxidants have the ability to        by ROS, depends on their ability to access      functions, thereby promoting inner balance
    fight free radicals that attack human cells      the sites or sub-cellular compartments of       and a feeling of wellbeing. Obviously only
    and damage DNA by slowing down and               biochemical activity.”                          the highest quality gold split up into minute
                                                                                                     particles and in colloidal solution will be
    BElow lEft: DermaPlex Stem Cell                  BElow right: Ericson laboratoire has
                                                                                                     used.
    masque is a novel and unique approach            recently launched its Derma-Calm range
                                                                                                     • Vitamin A: Vitamin A is used in many
    in anti-ageing therapy designed for              – the company’s research laboratories
                                                                                                     of its possible derivatives as a cosmetic
    professional skin care treatments. the           have developed a new action mechanism,
                                                                                                     ingredient. The effects on the skin will
    masque contains the re-cultivated plant          neurocosmetics, which is capable of
                                                                                                     therefore depend on which derivative has
    stem cells in nanosome particles with            reducing the response of the neurons that
                                                                                                     been used, for example, retinol, retinoic
    deep trans-epidermal penetration.                are sensitive to external stimuli.
                                                                                                     acid or retinyl palmitate. The main effect
                                                                                                     of vitamin A is that it will protect the DNA
                                                                                                     in the nuclei of the different cells found in
                                                                                                     the skin against free radicals, such as the
                                                                                                     fibroblasts, Langerhans cells, keratinocytes
                                                                                                     and melanocytes. This will contribute to the
                                                                                                     cells living longer and being healthier.
                                                                                                     • Vitamin C: It is irreplaceable for
                                                                                                     the formation of collagen and being
                                                                                                     water-soluble, vitamin C will protect against
                                                                                                     free radicals occurring in the cytoplasm of
                                                                                                     the cells. It has also been found that it >>



4   PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY JAN/FEB 2010
         skin care tec h n o l og y

                                                                        lEft: the active ingredient of the apple
                                                                        stem cells, gained from a special apple
         will convert vitamin E that was used to
                                                                        extract, can be found in klapp’s range of
         fight free radicals in a lipid environment
                                                                        Stri-PeXan Phyto Stem Cell technology
         back to active vitamin E.
                                                                        products. it protects the DNA and
         • Ectoin: Ectoin is a unique ingredient
                                                                        counteracts premature skin aging.
         that penetrates into the lower layers of
         the epidermis and will encapsulate every                       toP right: A Classic contains vitamin
         cell in those layers to protect them against                   A influences the collagen structure and
         the UV rays. It does not need constant                         the enzyme activity of aging skin.
         reapplication.                                                 right: Clear Expert Complex in tango’s
         • DNA: DNA cell extract is rich in highly                      rejuvenating Brightening range acts
         concentrate nutrients, namely proteins,                        on melanogenesis, from the creation of
         essential amino acids, vitamins, minerals                      pigments right through to their migration
         and trace elements, including calcium                          and appearance on the surface.
         lecithin, iodine, iron and vitamins A, E,
         B12 and B3. The cell renewing ingredients
         supply new energy to the skin, and fill        • Collagen: There are different types of         Recent research has indicated that
         the moisture depots. These cell renewing       collagen found in the skin, acting as the     collagen III (ASC III) does penetrate into the
         nutrients aid to make the skin more            basic substance to provide elastic and        dermis. This is a high-tech biotechnological
         elastic, hydrated and the cell membranes       supporting connective tissue. Collagen I is   ingredient, which has been manufactured by
         are strengthened.                              the most common type and accounts for         the medicinal industry. It has been proven
         • Hyaluronic acid: This is a substance         about 80%, while collagen III only accounts   that this substance will accelerate the repair
         formed in the body that enables the            for about 15%. Collagen IV and V make up      of collagen III in the dermis. Collagen III has
         skin to store moisture and as a result,        the remaining 5%. Previously, the general     the ability to form a network, which can then
         helps to give it a taut shape, and added       opinion has been that the collagen molecule   be filled with collagen I. Due to the fact that
         suppleness and strength. It also aids to       is too big and can’t penetrate the skin. It   the collagen III content of the skin decreases
         improve the moisture content of the skin,      will therefore form an occlusive layer on     with age, it leads to uncontrolled collagen
         helps the skin to withstand the negative       the surface to reduce moisture loss, but      I deposits. This is the true reason for a
         environmental influences and other             does not affect the dermis and thus has no    decrease in skin smoothness and tautness,
         aggressive effects.                            anti-wrinkle properties.                      which will eventually lead to wrinkles. PB




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