THE SERVE by bnmbgtrtr52


									                                             food 16
                                                              September 12, 2010

                                                                                                                                                                               ##### excellent

                                                          THE SERVE
              ALSO TRY                                                                                                                                                         #### very good
              Han Sot Bab Korean Restaurant, 315                                                                                                                               ### good
              Glen Huntly Road, Elsternwick, 9532                                                                                                                              ## average
                                                                                                                                                                               # poor
              7747. Mon-Fri, lunch; daily, dinner.                                                                                                                               abysmal
              Come before or after a film at the Classic
              for dolsot bibimbap, a rice, vegetable
              and egg dish served in a hot stone pot.       THIS WEEK: NEAR THE CINEMA
              Also popular here is the marinated beef
              bulgogi and vegetarian dishes such as
              the tofu japchae noodles. Service is        Restaurant reviews by Dani Valent
              speedy but, if you’re in a big rush, you
              can call ahead to order.

              Izakaya Hachibeh, 143-145 Bourke
              Street, Melbourne, 9078 9909.
              Mon-Fri, lunch; Mon-Sat, dinner.
              Just around the corner from the Greater
              Union Cinemas on Russell Street, this
              Japanese saloon is a good bet for a fast
              meal. The chef’s specials include garlic
              and chilli prawns, deep-fried eggplant
              with spicy meat sauce and tempura                                                                                                                                Simple and
              soft-shell crab sushi rolls. There are                                                                                                                           charming: grilled
                                                                                                                                                                               seafood platter.
              heaps of vegetarian dishes.
                                                                                                                                                                               CRAIG SILLITOE
              Chowhound, 235 High Street,
              Northcote, 9486 5885. Breakfast,
              Sat & Sun; lunch, Thurs-Sun; dinner,
              Your biggest problem at this multi-culti
              diner is that the serves are so generous.
              For most people, the Westgarth Theatre
              is 10 minutes’ stroll away. For someone
              who’s just finished a plate of spaetzle
              noodles with yummy ragu, the roly-poly
              stagger might take longer.

              INDULGE                                      ###$ Cafe Terroni                             owner Joe Staropoli. That’s the vibe. Dark     potatoes, which don’t need much flour
              Feed the man beef                            18 Ballarat Street, Yarraville, 9687 8011     timber, exposed brick, hanging garlic and      to bind and make for fluffy dumplings.
              Hospitality consultant Erez Gordon           Licensed AE MC V Eftpos                       a row of chianti bottles are signals that      Nestled in napoli, they’re a fabulous but
              loves chianina beef from Isola farm          Daily, 5.30pm-10pm                            the mission is to fulfil Italian restaurant     unthreatening pleasure.
              in Gippsland. “Chianina is an Italian        Antipasto $6.90-$18.90, pasta $17.90-         cliches rather than avoid them. The                A roster of specials is important in
              breed of cattle, a white steer, and the      $21.90, mains $19.90-$29.90, desserts         menu is skewed to the south of Italy.          a restaurant that counts on its regulars.
              beef is phenomenal,” he says. “It’s          $9.90                                         Sweet-sour Sicilian tendencies are             When I visited, a busy blackboard
              fair dinkum meat flavour, really beefy,                                                     expressed in the spaghetti trapanese with      announced that those gnocchi were also
              rich and intense. There’s no                 It’s 6.45pm. You have tickets to a 7.20pm     almonds, sultanas and breadcrumbs.             available with creamy gorgonzola and
              wishy-washiness about this                   film at the Sun Theatre. Popcorn is not        There’s the Calabrian-style seafood grill,     walnut. There’s also a daily risotto and
              meat.” Gordon buys a                         going to see you through. Happily, Cafe       a simple platter of fish, calamari and          duck dish, roasted, partly boned then
              10-kilogram bag of                           Terroni is a few doors down. Ravioli with     prawns, flavoured with olive oil, salt and      finished to order. My juicy, tender duck
              mixed cuts, when                             sage sauce, a glass of vino and out in        not much else. It’s served with a bowl         came with a clever, piquant sauce of
              it’s available.                              30 minutes? Easily done. Afterwards, pop      of crisp roast potatoes. (An example of        sour cherry and vinocotto (sweet grape
              “The T-bone                                  back for tiramisu and another Nebbiolo if     a charming lack of guile occurred when         syrup).
              or scotch or                                 you want to extend that happily-ever-after    we considered sides. “I don’t think you’ll         Desserts are uncomplicated. Banana
              rib eye is really                            glow. Even if the film is a cracker, you’re    need anything,” said our waitress. “But        and butterscotch crepes are shamelessly
              good but the                                 likely to look enviously at diners settled    would you like more bread?”)                   sticky and indulgent. A textbook
              secondary cuts are                           in for three courses because Cafe Terroni         Joe and Angela Staropoli opened the        blueberry pannacotta underlines the skill
              really beefy too. Even the mince             is a nice place to be, welcoming and keen     restaurant two years ago. Joe’s mama           that threads through Cafe Terroni but it’s
              is great: the bolognaise I make              to please. When I visited, a man arrived      Tina still makes the gnocchi. (Tina also       the warm heart, not the technique, that
              out of this meat makes me look               with a hankering for garlic prawns. They      helps at her daughter’s restaurant, Cafe       really impresses.
              good.”                                       aren’t on the menu. “But if you’ve got        Cocca Nova in North Carlton). The
                                                           your heart set we can do them,” said          gnocchi is fantastic, made with royal blue     Tips and pans to

                                                                                                                                                                              Monica Du
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