The Pinot Celebration and our Pinot Noir style In This Issue

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The Pinot Celebration and our Pinot Noir style In This Issue Powered By Docstoc
					 111 Roberts Road :: Main Ridge :: Victoria :: 3928 :: Australia
 Office :: tel 03 5989 6455 fax 03 5989 6433 :: Cellar Door 03 5989 6190
 www.tenminutesbytractor.com.au :: info@tenminutesbytractor.com.au


The Pinot Celebration                                                                                      our style is and the qualities we are
                                                                                                           aiming to develop in our Pinots.
and our Pinot Noir style
                                                                                                           Patrick Iland and Denis Fetzmann 1
The 2005 Mornington Peninsula                                                                              suggest a range of sensory
Pinot Celebration was a huge                                                                               characteristics for Pinot Noir (see
success. Sessions included Exploring                                                                       table below); of course there are
New World Pinot Noir, Exploring                                                                            not just three styles, there is a
Mornington Peninsula Terroir and                                                                           continuum between the extremes.
Influence of Clones & Terroir;
attendees tasted wines from                                                                                We are aiming to produce Pinot
Burgundy, Oregon, California, New                                                                          that is the finest expression of our
Zealand and other Australian regions.                                                                      vineyards and which provides the
                                                                                                           most elegant example of
 We highly recommend the Pinot                                                                             Mornington Peninsula Pinot
 Celebration; watch for details of                                                                         characters. We are targeting a
      the next one in 2007.                                                                                flavour spectrum of cherry moving
                                                                                                           into black cherry, strawberry
Keynote speaker Matt Kramer                                                                                moving into raspberry; and we are
(author and Wine Spectator                                                                                 certainly looking to develop those
columnist/critic) spoke at length,                        Matt Kramer                                      classic Burgundian secondary
and created a lot of discussion,                          referring to such decisions as clonal            characteristics and the mouthfeel,
                         vin
about Pinot Noir as a “ morale”    ;                      selection, row orientation, planting             length and complexity which we
he believes that, more than any                           density and so on.                               believe distinguish great Pinots. True
other grape, when one grows Pinot                                                                          Pinot is not about the Shiraz look-
Noir one is seeking to hear “  the                        One of the more interesting tastings             alikes at one extreme, nor the
voice of the land” because Pinot                          was Pinot Styles From Around The                 wishy-washy, sappy versions (usually
Noir acts as a transmitter of that                        World. It demonstrated that there                the result of poor site selection,
voice – winemaker’moral
         the             s                                are many different valid styles and it           overcropping and young vines) at
obligation is to amplify the voice                        prompted us to explain to you what               the other.
without distorting it; Kramer
believes the winemaker’influence,
                          s                                                     Pinot Noir Sensory Characteristics Spectrum
or “            ,
    signature”should not intrude.                         Colour                            Light à     Medium to dark plum        à Overly dark
James Halliday agreed though                              Primary aromas/           Green sappy, à       Mature sappy, black       à Stewed plums,
pointed out that terroir is only                          flavours                       cherry,           cherry, violets,          jammy
revealed by the hand of man,                                                         strawberry         perfumed, raspberry,
                                                                                                          rhubarb, prunes,
                                                                                                            blackcurrant
In This Issue...                                          Secondary                                       Gamey, barnyard,
Vineyards, terroir and vintage                            aromas/flavours                                earthy, truffle, forest
2005................................................. 2                                                    floor, mushroom
Some recent accolades for our                             Mouthfeel             Light, thin, green/ à    Velvet, soft, round,      à Overly
wines ............................................... 3                              sappy, bitter          light-medium             tannic,
Restaurant news ............................ 3                                                             puckering, light          medium
                                                                                                         graininess with age,        puckering, dry
The cellar door and the Tractor                                                                         mouthwatering, length,       red-like
Club................................................. 4                                                       complexity

                                                                            1                      TMBT Newsletter :: March 2005
Vineyards, terroir and                                         s
                                                         Arthur’Seat
                                                              granite
vintage 2005                                                 outcrop

Our last newsletter came out during
flowering and things were looking
good; even growth and nice bunch
development were promising signs
for the coming vintage. However,
since then we have had
unseasonable humidity, extreme
heat and cold and extreme rain to
make this one of the most
unpredictable and exciting vintages
seen on the Mornington Peninsula.
Most Melbournians will remember 2
                 not
February 2005 – only was it
           s
Melbourne’coldest February day
on record (13°C) but the 24 hours
to 9:00am on 3 February were also
the wettest on record (120mm).

We define terroir as the sum total                    Source: GeoVic (http://nremap-sc.nre.viv.gov.au)                                        Our vineyards on
                                                                                                                                              older volcanic soils
    of the natural features of a                            a good canopy to support the crop,
 vineyard - topography, geology,                            followed by moderate stress that
                                                                                                                 new organic Spedding vineyard), it
     soil and climate - that all                            limits further growth, but allows
                                                            healthy leaves to fully ripen the                    has not been necessary to use it for
influence the character of a wine.
                                                            fruit.” 5                                            several vintages.
Which brings us to soil. Two days                       It seems that, above all else, it is                     The major challenge of these rich,
after this deluge everything was                        how soil manages water which                             basaltic soils is that their high
green but we were back to dust                          influences grape quality –  great                        fertility results in vigorous vine
again, at least on the surface. In our                  wines can be produced on all sorts                       growth –    one part of managing
December newsletter we wrote                            of soil: limestone in Champagne,                         vigour is canopy management,
about the ancient volcanic based                        Burgundy and parts of St Emilion,                        essentially manipulating the canopy
soils on which all our vineyards (in                    gravel in Bordeaux, rocks in                             microclimate, which includes such
fact almost all the higher vineyards                    Châteauneuf-du-Pape, slate in Mosel                      practices as…
on the Peninsula) are grown –      one                  and so on.                                               4 Shoot thinning –   removing suckers
of the key attributes of this soil is                                                                              and unwanted shoots to maintain a
that it drains well, particularly in                       A very simple example of the                            light penetrating canopy.
summer when the water table                                      effect of terroir...                            4 Shoot positioning –   maintaining the
drops, and yet retains moisture at                                                                                 desired shape of the trellis system (in
                                                         Pinot Noir ripens earliest on our
depth. So what you ask? A few                                                                                      our case Scott Henry and VSP) and
                                                           Wallis vineyard, on average, 6
expert opinions…                                                                                                   positioning the fruit zone within that
                                                        days before Judd which is, in turn,
4 “ terroir effect can largely be
    The                                                                                                            system.
                                                         7 days earlier than McCutcheon.
  explained through its influence on                                                                             4 Leaf plucking – opening up the area
  vine water status.”  2                                  For Chardonnay, Wallis is also                           around the clusters for good airflow
   It
4 “ is likely that the effects of climate                 our earliest ripener, on average                         and sun penetration without
  and soil on fruit quality are mediated                just 1 day ahead off McCutcheon                            excessive exposure which can lead to
  through their influence on vine water                  which is 8 days earlier than Judd.                        sunburn.
  status.” 3
                                                                                                                 4 Hedging –  trimming shoots to their
                                                        In the context of water                                    maximum desired length.
4“ What does make a great terroir
  then? The answer is found in soil                     management, vineyard age is a key                        4 Cluster or bunch thinning –   prevents
  physical properties which regulate                    factor with older vineyards having                         over cropping and eliminates under
  water supply to the vine.”   4                        deeper root structures. Although                           ripe clusters.
   High
4 “ wine quality appears to require                     our vineyards –   now between 12
                                                        and 16 years old – equipped for
                                                                            are                                  At this time of the year we are
  adequate, but not excessive, water
                                                        irrigation (with the exception of the                    concentrating on leaf plucking and
  supply early in the season to establish

References
1
  Iland & Fetzmann 2000, "Cool Climate Pinot Noir Wine Styles –    What, Where And Why?", 5th International Symposium On Cool Climate Viticulture And Oenology
2
  van Leeuwen 2004, "Effects Of Soil And Climate On Water Relations In Vines", 29th ASEV/ES Annual Technical Meeting & Symposium: Grapes, Wine And Environment
3
  van Leeuwen, Friant et al 2004, "Influence Of Climate, Soil And Cultivar On Terroir", American Journal Of Enology And Viticulture, 55(3): 207-217
4
  Smart 2002, "New World Responses To Old World Terroir", 5th International Symposium Of The Institute Of Masters Of Wine: The Changing Face Of Wine
5
  Lakso & Pool 2000, "Drought Stress Effects On Vine Growth, Function Ripening And Implications For Wine Quality", 29th Annual New York Wine Industry Workshop

                                                                               2                         TMBT Newsletter :: March 2005
bunch thinning. Vineyard manager            Our vineyard crew are, as we speak,              Food Guide. 71 Stanley Street, East
Alan Murray explains, “  Now is the         meticulously, vine by vine, carrying             Sydney, 02 9360 4640
time to focus on the fruit to turn all      out both these operations (this is
                                                                                             Otto
the hard work of growing into               the third pass this vintage for leaf
ripening. To ensure we achieve the          plucking) to turn this extreme                                        s
                                                                                             Otto, one of Sydney’finest
best possible results this vintage, all     season into extreme wine! In our                                    s
                                                                                             restaurants (2 chef’hat in the
care is being taken to increase the         ultra premium blocks we are                      Good Food Guide), is pouring both
quality of our crops. This is done by       targeting very low yields of 2.5                 our Reserve Pinot Noir and
extensive leaf plucking to expose           tonne/ha (1 tonne/acre) for Pinot                Reserve Chardonnay by the glass
bunches to light and reduce the risk        and about 7 (2.8) for Chardonnay.                  6
                                                                                             – Cowper Wharf Road,
of disease (by improving air flow)                                                           Woolloomooloo, 02 9368 7488.
                                            Equally important at this time is
and, of course, by thinning fruit.”
                                            putting nets on –  veraison means                Mrs Jones
 As usual in our cool climate, and          the arrival of flocks of birds,
                                                                                             One of our favourite restaurants is
   exacerbated by this vintage’ s           attracted by the increasing sugars
                                                                                             Mrs Jones at 312 Drummond Street,
 strange weather , there has been           signalled by the changing colours.
                                                                                             Carlton (03 9347 3312). They
considerable disease pressure; with         This would be a great challenge for
                                                                                             emphasise seasonal produce and
 careful canopy management we                          he’
                                            Christo – s just done Central
                                                                                             regularly change their menu to
have not had any major problems.            Park in New York so one of our
                                                                                             reflect that. Award winning chef
                                            vineyards should be easy (our crew
                                                                                             Andrew McConnell has developed a
We saw the first signs of veraison          would be extremely grateful).
                                                                                             recipe specifically for us to match
on 4 February and Alan started fine                                                          our Pinot Noir…Smoked and
tuning the vineyards. Veraison (the         Restaurants news                                 braised duck with mustard
process of fruit losing acidity, gaining                                                     fruits and hazelnuts.
tannin and sugar and turning from           Pello
green to red or gold) is the time to        Pello restaurant in Sydney is holding            Smoked duck breast –    Remove legs
thin fruit; Alan again, “ this point
                         At                 a Pinot Noir Journey dinner on                   from whole bird and set aside. Leave
we can safely assess our yields and         14 April to explore the versatility of           breast plate on and cure with sea
reduce our crop if necessary and by         various forms of the variety                     salt, thyme, bay, orange peel and
doing so cut out any ‘  green fruit’        including our Rosé (served with an               black peppercorn for a few hours;
that will rob us of intensity and           Amuse Bouche) and 10X 2001                       wash cure off. Smoke with aromatics
character. An added benefit is              (served with Roast Jewfish Fillet,               and wood chips until well smokey,
promoting synchronous ripening of           Cinnamon Braised Baby Octopus,                   about ½ an hour, but still rare.
blocks which ensures all fruit is           White Beans & Parsley Emulsion).                 Braised duck legs – Remove thigh
picked at an optimum level rather                                                            bone and tie meat together, braise
than an average with some just right,                               s
                                            Pello was awarded 1 chef’hat in
                                            the Sydney Morning Herald Good                   in chicken stock with bouquet garni,
some over, some under-ripe”      .                                                           until tender, cool.
Some recent accolades                          peach and some bready yeast                               s
                                                                                               rosés. It’clean and intense and the
                                               characters. It's soft and rich and easy         low sugar level means it has a clean,
for our wines…                                 to enjoy; a year's bottle– age                  dry finish and is food friendly.”
                                               contributes to its appeal.”                     1 March 2005, Huon Hooke, Sydney
2004 10X Sauvignon Blanc                       15 March 2005, Huon Hooke, Sydney               Morning Herald Good Living
4 November 2004 Federation Square              Morning Herald Good Living
 Victorian Wine Awards voted                                                                2002 10X Pinot Noir
 “People’Choice”
          s                                 2004 10X Rosé                                   4 ««««
4“Intensely-flavoured, tropical fruit         If
                                            4 “ you enjoy first class rosés try this.          "Definitely a pinot! Quite spicy and
 driven surprise package from the             This is the first rosé made by this              earthy on the nose, following through
 Mornington Peninsula that guarantees         Mornington Peninsula winery and it's             on to the palate. Olive and cherry
 total enjoyment.”                            a cracker. Made from 100 per cent                flavours, well-handled oak. A tad feral
 23 January 2005, John Fordham, The           pinot noir, it's unusual as most pinot           but this gives it character.”
 Sunday Telegraph                             growers prefer to save fruit for more            Winestate Annual 2005 :: Best Wines of
                                              expensive reds than rosés. Fresh                 2004 (first in the $30-35 class)
4“Very pale gold. Nose of flowers and
                                              rose-petal nose, big fruit on long
 lychees. Very dry, clean crisp style,
                                              palate. Good acid balance. Perfect
                                                                                            2002 Reserve Pinot Noir
 herbal edge adds to the fruit                                                              4 ««««
                                              with antipasto, tapas or leftovers.”
 ripeness, zippy acid finish. Scores well                                                      Intense and complex cola, peat,
                                                                                               “
                                              2 February 2005, Jeff Collerson, The
 as an aperitif.”                                                                              earthy nose with a perfumed lift.
                                              Daily Telegraph
 31 January 2005, Martin Field, e-vine                                                         Long, rich and fleshy in the mouth.
                                               Best
                                            4 “ Rosé –        The colour and
2003 Pinot Gris                                                                                Very ripe, almost raisined, fruit
                                              bouquet show some advanced
                                                                                               flavours. Good drinking now.”
4 “ Aussie White – Mornington
  Top             A                           development and perhaps a hint of
                                                                                               Winestate Annual 2005 :: Best Wines of
  Peninsula wine made by Moorooduc            wood age. That all makes it a
                                                                                               2004 (equal first in $40-45 range)
  Estate's Rick McIntyre, this has a          complex, savoury style which has
  spicy aroma coupled with honey,             more depth of interest than many

                                                                3                        TMBT Newsletter :: March 2005
Salad –  Toast and peel hazelnuts,        Bellzain                                     Cloudwine
lightly crush,                            Bistro Thierry                               Randalls
Mustard fruits - chopped,                 Blue Tongue Wine Bar
Shallots - grilled with skin on, then     Bottega                                   In and around Sydney...
peeled,                                   Donovan’   s                                  Catalina Rose Bay
Baby beetroot - washed and                France-Soir                                   Eastbank
roasted, peeled and splashed with         Café d’ Orsay                                 Flying Fish
vinaigrette while still warm,             Glaze                                         Ocean Room
Beetroot leaves - washed,                 Hairy Canary                                  Opera Bar
Mustard cress and wild rocket             Langton’ s                                    Otto
leaves - washed,                          Lantana                                       Pello
Fresh shallots - finely sliced,           Mrs Jones                                     Wildfire
Chervil sprigs                            Number 8 @ Crown                              Yoshi
                                          Pearl                                     Sydney retailers include...
Red wine vinaigrette finished with
                                          The Great Provider
hazelnut oil to dress salad, season.                                                    Australian Wine Centre
                                          The Healesville Hotel
Serve and wash down with a glass of       The Lake House                                Avalon Fine Wines
Ten Minutes By Tractor Pinot Noir.        The Melbourne Wine Room                       Best Cellars
                                          Vue du Monde                                  Cabarita Cellars
Some other restaurants serving                                                          Five Way Cellars
                                          Waterfront @ Station Pier
our wines
                                        Melbourne retailers include...
In and around Melbourne...
                                          Armadale Cellars
    Ambrosia
                                          Boccaccio Cellars
    Bacash
The cellar door and the Tractor Club
New releases                            Special Chardonnay offer to                Mornington Peninsula wineries are
                                        Tractor Club members                       showcasing their wines at the Red
Our 2003 10X Pinot Gris, 2002
                                                                                   Hill Showgrounds along with food,
Reserve Chardonnay, 2001 Reserve        We have decided to release a very
                                                                                   music and wine related seminars.
Pinot Noir and 2003 10X                 limited amount of our 2000 10X
Tempranillo are now sold out.           Chardonnay which we have been              Our cellar door will be open each of
                                        keeping aside with our library wines.      these days with some great
The good news –    our 2004 10X
                                        This wine, rated 92 by Halliday, is        entertainment planned (more details
Pinot Gris, the 2003 Reserve
                                        looking superb with some bottle            next newsletter) plus you will have
Chardonnay and the 2002 10X
                                        age. We also have small amounts of         the opportunity of tasting the new
and Reserve Pinot Noirs will be
                                        the wonderful 2001 Judd                    2004 Tempranillo and our full range
released at the cellar door during
                                        Chardonnay and, of course, our             of wines.
Easter. The 2004 10X
                                        current release, the 2002 10X.
Tempranillo will not be released
                                                                                   Opening times
until the Winter Wine Weekend            As a special offer to our Tractor
(11-13 June).                             Club members we are putting              Our cellar door is open for tastings
                                        together a mixed case of 3 bottles         and light lunches every weekend and
The 2004 10X Pinot Gris has the
                                         of the 2000 10X, 3 bottles of the         all public holidays (other than Good
wonderful savoury characteristics
                                          2001 Judd and 6 bottles of the           Friday) from 11:00am-5:00pm.
reminiscent of fine Alsace wines
                                            2002 10X at a case price of            Please call in, Julie would love to see
which we prefer to the lighter Pinot
                                          $285.60 ($23.80 per bottle –   a         you.
Grigio styles; Huon Hooke
describes our style as “ and rich
                        soft,             15% discount on the 2002 10X
                                            price) and will include free
                                                                                    Important!
and easy to enjoy” .
                                         delivery Australia wide until the          Email Addresses…
Our 2003 Reserve Chardonnay                         end of April.
continues the style of the highly                                                   In future we will be making some of
rated 2002 while the 2002 Reserve                                                   our special offers to Tractor Club
                                        This offer is extremely limited due
and 10X Pinots were both                                                            members direct via email. If you
                                        to the very small amount of 2000
awarded 4 stars in the Winestate                                                    would like to receive these offers
                                        10X available. Wines will be strictly
Annual (see reviews previous page).                                                 please make certain that we have
                                        allocated on a first come, first
                                                                                                           just
                                                                                    your email address – email us at
The 2004 10X Tempranillo is a           served basis.
                                                                                    info@tenminutesbytractor.com.au
blockbuster, a wonderfully rich, full                                               with “                and
                                                                                           Tractor Club” your name
bodied version of this grape from       Winter wine weekend
                                                                                    as the subject line and we will
our Wallis vineyard.                    A date for your diary –11-13 June           ensure you are on our email
                                        2005. On Saturday 11 June, all              distribution list.

                                                          4                     TMBT Newsletter :: March 2005
111 Roberts Road :: Main Ridge :: Victoria :: 3928 :: Australia
     Office :: tel 03 5989 6455 fax 03 5989 6433 :: Cellar Door 03 5989 6190
     www.tenminutesbytractor.com.au :: info@tenminutesbytractor.com.au


Tractor Club Order Form
March-April 2005

                                            Bottle        Number     Case     Equiv        No             Total
                                            Price         Bottles   Price *   Bottle      Cases/          Value
2004 10X Rosé                               $20.00                  $204.00   $17.00
2004 10X Sauvignon Blanc                    $23.00                  $234.60   $19.55
2004 10X Pinot Gris                         $30.00                  $306.00   $25.50
2002 10X Chardonnay                         $28.00                  $285.60   $23.80
2003 Reserve Chardonnay                     $39.00                  $397.80   $33.15
2001 10X Pinot Noir                         $30.00                  $306.00   $25.50
2002 Reserve Pinot Noir                     $45.00                  $459.00   $38.25
2001 Sweet Allis (375ml)                    $35.00                  $357.00   $29.75
Vintage Chardonnay offer (see Newsletter)     –                     $257.55   $21.46
Add delivery
 Melbourne metropolitan [$6.00/case]                                                               NIL Mar-Apr 2005
 Country & interstate [$12.60/case]
Total
* Includes 15% discount

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Address
                                                  State                        Postcode
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                                                           5              TMBT Newsletter :: March 2005
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