KINGSVIEW UMINA

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KINGSVIEW UMINA Powered By Docstoc
					KINGSVIEW UMINA
This is a pleasant South facing summer crag with a few moderately graded classic sporty routes in a
unique setting amongst She Oak forest.

Turn right off Ocean Beach Road at Umina Mall into Lone Pine Avenue at the chicane the street name
changes to Kingsview Drive, about 300m from the chicane before the road veers right there is a gravel
driveway on the left that marks the top of the crag and the obvious descent gully. Parking here is best
kerbside rather adding to the erosion of the gravelled area.

All but one of the routes here are to the West of the descent gully.

The first routes at this crag were developed in 1996 in a frenzy by Richard Jeffrey and Craig Galoway.

RIGHT OF DESCENT GULLY

Fist Full of Bucks 6m 21
Up bulging wall on left side of cave about 20 right of descent gully. 3BR. Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey
2000.

THE BAT CAVE

The first large chossy cave to the left (West) of the descent gully.

Pine O Clean 10m 15
Start up centre of well rounded arête about 3m left of The Bat Cave, straight up to top passing good friend
breaks at about 6m. Grant Severn, Phil Allen 1998

MUM’S NEW HOME

The very large cave about 30m left of the descent gully.

***Bike Boy 15m 19
Classic. Start on the left side of the cave up narrow arête to underside of roof, break right around roof and
up headwall. 5BR, 1RB. Richard Jeffrey, Craig Galoway 1996

          At day a mild mannered plumber but on weekends, donning his vented helmet
          and lycra pants ‘Bike Boy’.

          Able to scare old women with a single yell, amaze onlookers with his one
          wheeled antics, lost more skin than a burn victim, got more stitches than a hot
          air balloon.

          But all that said, when the pressure is on, the coffee’s brewing, the milks all
          gone and the shop is more than a walk away, ‘Bike Boy’.

Mr. Funny Hair Puts Up a Climb 15m 11
Up the dirty off width crack left of BB. Large Friends and slings for the chock stones. David Russell, Ross
Linsley 1996

**Deliverance 15m 23
Thin start on right side of steep wall to the left of Mum’s New Home. Straight up. 5BR, 1RB. Richard
Jeffrey, Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 2000

**Stainless Steal 15m 22
Thin start up centre of steep wall 2m left of Deliverance to friend break passing BR then straight up and
left to join User Friendly. 3BR, 2RB, large friends. Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey 2000

***User Friendly 15m 20
Classic. Up left side of steep wall 2m left of SS. Straight up. 5BR, 1RB. Richard Jeffrey, Craig Galoway
1996

Big Black Spider 15m 18
Up right side of wall around from UF, starting at low level. 5BR, BB. Richard Jeffrey, Craig Galoway 1996
Big Black Spider Left Hand Variant 12m 17
Up right side of wall around from UF, starting at higher level. 4BR, BB. Richard Jeffrey, Craig Galoway
1996

**Fax Me 9m 22
“I’m gonna make you squeal like a fax machine boy”. Start 4m left of BBS. Good belayer handy! 3BR, BB.
Richard Jeffrey, Craig Galoway 1996

LITTLE BLOCK

Small block with two climbs about 30m left of Mum’s New Home.

Fist Full of Pine Needles 8m 20
Right side of block behind large oak. 3BR, 1RB. Richard Jeffrey, Craig Galoway 1996

***Finesse 12m 21
Classic. Up left side of block, then slab it out to top. 3BR, DBB. Paul Riviere 1996

POST OFFICE CORNER

The high corner above Little Block, access via gully about 10m left.

PO Box 123 7m 19
Right side of short steep wall, can be done harder if you can resist breaking on to the slab. 3BR, 1RB.
Richard Jeffrey, Paul Riviere, Ross Linsley 1996

***Express Delivery 7m 23
Up left side of short steep wall. 3BR, 1RB. Richard Jeffrey, Peter Lynch 1998

**Fist Full of Lube 8m 19
Up onto obvious large block and up thin seam. Stick clip first runner. 2RB, #0.5 friend, DBB. Richard
Jeffrey, Grant Severn. 2002

Abandoned Project
The right crack of two through the roof.

The Fire That Burns 8m 20
The left crack of the two through the roof. Friends. Ross Linsley 1997

CRACK HOUSE

Short featured wall about 40m left of Little Block, up on higher terrace.

??? 10m 15
Left side of wall, up corner then left to far seam, then straight up. Friends. David Forbes, Mathew
Kingsman-Smith 2000

Borocca Man 10m 19
Up corner and straight up seam. Friends & wires. Paul & Greg Riviere 2000

***Flaco And The Sandman 15m 18
Up charming centre crack with cross over, straight up over top block. Friends & wires. Ross Lindsley,
David Russell 1996

***Ripple 10m 23
Bold thin seam 2m right of FATS. RP’s, wires and #1.5 & 2.0 friends. Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey 2000

*Davo’s Crack 6m 20
Wide fist crack at right end of wall. David Forbes, Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn, Gordon Porter 2000

***Between The Sheets 15m 23
Starts off ledge and heads out left under edge of roof, then up far arête. Twin ropes highly recommended.
#1.0 friend, 5RB, DBB. Paul Riviere 2000
KUMAGUTSA AREA

The next large open book corner left of Crack House

***Kumagutsa 12m 21
Right most route on steep wall. 2RB, friends, DBB. Paul Riviere, Richard Jeffrey 1999

**C’est Une Femme 10m 23
Often wet. Left route on steep wall. 1BR, 2RB, DBB. Paul Riviere 1999

***Here Comes The Sun 15m 20
Left side of slab. 2BR, friends for the top if desired, shares DBB with FPS (below). Richard Jeffrey, Grant
Severn, Paul Riviere 1999

Mü 15m 22
Up left side of arête 3m left of HCTS. Friends, 2RB, shares DBB with FPS (below). Paul Riviere 2000

***For Pete’s Sake 12m 20
Up centre of wall 4m left of Mü, 1BR, 1RB, #1.5 & 2.0 friends. The use of a screw gate in lieu of
quickdraw on the first runner can help save the ankles. Richard Jeffrey, Grant Severn 1999

				
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