Not your average burger joint

Document Sample
Not your average burger joint Powered By Docstoc
					4                                                                                 F     & WI
                                                                                  F OOD & W NE                                                                                              CAPE TIMES
                                                                                                                                                                                    FRIDAY, JULY 13, 2007

                Not your average burger joint
DOMINIQUE HERMAN                           room, and topped with caramelised          gramme. And since then the restau-
                                           onions, sautéed black mushrooms and        rant’s wine list has increased from 280
WHEN Burger King coined the term           a slither of brie, with tempura cour-      to 400 wines, earning it a renewed spot
“whopper” to describe one of their         gettes in lieu of chips and sweet chilli   on the publication’s list this year.
hamburgers, they clearly had not           tomato salsa.                                  This is an eatery where not only the
encountered the 500g brute on offer at        96 Winery Road, commonly referred       hamburger is out of the ordinary Oth-.
96 Winery Road in Somerset West.           to by the wine fraternity as “the can-     elene Weber, who has worked at 96 Win-
   Executive chef Craig Backhouse’s        teen”, was founded by winemakers           ery Road for five years, two as head
gourmet burger in 250g and 500g pat-       Forrester and Martin Meinert in 1996       waitress, routinely eats out at some of
ties is a new addition to the winter       (there is no number 96 on the road         the city’s finest restaurants armed by
menu. Co-owner Ken Forrester told          where it is located; rather the name is    management with a blank cheque, no
Backhouse that if they were going to       a play on its “vintage”). Last year, it    price limit and the instruction to try
serve a burger, it best be a burger dif-   was the first South African restaurant     different wines.
ferent from all other burgers. So this     ever to win the highly regarded Amer-          It’s all part of a perk Forrester insti-
one is made from prime beef and dry        ican publication Wine Spectator            tuted which doubles as practical train-
aged in the restaurant’s own cold          restaurant award for its wine pro-         ing: kitchen and waiting staff are
                                                                                      treated in groups of four to six on an
                                                                                      alternating basis to dinners around
                                                                                      town. The entire staff will also embark
                                                                                      on courses this month at the Cape
                                                                                      Wine Academy       .
                                                                                          “They want their staff to be knowl-
                                                                                      edgeable,” Weber said. “They send us
                                                                                      out to see what other restaurants are
                                                                                      doing, where we can learn what they
                                                                                      do and pick up things to avoid making
                                                                                          About a month ago she ate at
                                                                                      Reuben’s in Franschhoek. She’s also
                                                                                      been to Terroir, Bukhara, Tokara and
                                                                                      a handful of spots at the V&A Water-
                                                                                          “The programme gives staff
                                                                                      broader knowledge of what expecta-
                                                                                      tions are when you go to a restaurant.”
                                                                                                                                     WHAT A WHOP PER:
                                                                                                                                     WHAT A WHOPPER: A 96 Winery Road beef burger is just one
                                                                                                                                               of the attractions of ‘the canteen’.

                                                                                             Drink a ‘sticky’ for dessert
                                                                                      THE GREAT thing about winter                                                   Weisser Riesling NLH 2005 with
                                                                                      is the chance to dive into more
                                                                                      red wines and also a few stickies,
                                                                                                                                Veritassies                          its fresh riesling thrill.
                                                                                                                                                                         Later in the evening, or on a
                                                                                      that most grossly overlooked cat-                                              particularly gloomy day, you
                                                                                      egory Always the modern ques-                                                  want something fuller. Monis
                                                                                      tion: when do you drink them? It                                               have recently launched a wooded
                                                                                      is a good thing that these wines                                               red Muscadel (vintage 2000) that
                                                                                      age well, they usually do so by                                                sips very smoothly and comes
                                                                                      default!                                                                       packaged in a pretty and tall
                                                                                          The one time I happily imbibe                                              500ml bottle, a welcome change in
                                                                                      is at dinners where the food and                                               image to the usually squat and
                                                                                      wine is paired, and a glass duly                 JEAN-PIERRE                   stumpy muscadel incarnations.
                                                                                      arrives. But order off the wine                   ROSSOUW                      The wooded part of its make-up
                                                                                      list? Rarely Plus you have the                                                 is great, because it mellows the
                                                                                      concern of how the wine was                                                    drink, also the intense sweetness
                                                                                      kept if served by the glass. These       glass a night – but then it sounds    that these wines can lug about.
                                                                                      wines aren’t being ordered as            like medicine!                        Just don’t drink it chilled (as the
                                                                                      often as a light sauvignon blanc.           The trick, of course, is to        belligerent necktag suggests).
                                                                                          And then at home, a rich white       drink the sticky instead of des-          With these wines, it does boil
                                                                                      wine or a red wine will typically        sert, not with it. Another trick is   down to the question of having a
                                                                                      carry all the way through dinner,        to serve it earlier in the evening    sweet tooth or not; but then
                                                                                      and even hide in waiting to pres-        as an aperitif, but then you have     again, in this category like any
                                                                                      ent itself again once the initial        to make sure that it’s bright         other, a good wine is marked by
                                                                                      sweetness of the dessert on the          enough, what I mean is with           its balance. There is no reason
                                                                                      tongue is gone. Barring a large          enough acidity to wake the taste      why a sticky shouldn’t also have
                                                                                      table, opening a sticky is usually       buds. Clearly port won’t work so      enough acid and tannin to offset
                                                                                      going to mean some of the bottle                               ,
                                                                                                                               well in this capacity but many of     the sugar. Take the Peter Bayly
                                                                                      is wasted through oxidation              our noble late harvests will be       Cape Vintage Port 2004 – it’s
                                                                                      unless you diligently drink a            fantastic, like the Paul Cluver       smooth sipping and versatile.

Shared By: