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SYDneY SeaFOOD SchOOL                                                                                                  march – june 2011


  R o B e R Ta’ S L e T T e r
                                                                                                        food
                                                                                                        WeBSITeS
                                               lauren Murdoch (Felix), Mark
                                               Jensen (red Lantern), Brent Savage
                                               (Bentley restaurant & Bar, see book
                                               review page 8), Matthew Kemp
                                                                                                        Interested in The art and Mystery of food?
                                               (restaurant Balzac), Giovanni Pilu (Pilu
                                               at Freshwater), Mark Best (marque)                       check out www.adambalic.typepad.com for
                                               and Guillaume Brahimi (Guillaume                         the story of shrimp paste’s migration around
                                               at Bennelong). along with, the queen                     the world or bottargo’s use in 17th century
                                               of fast and fabulous, lyndey Milan                       London pubs in place of peanuts. Plus great
                                               with another of her popular food and
                                                                                                        stories and photos on ingredients, food
                                               wine workshops, this time focusing on
                                                                                                        markets and worldwide culinary traditions.
                                               Italian varietals, and Kathy Snowball
  It seems almost all of Sydney’s top          with another delicious, fuss-free
  chefs are making guest appearances at        3-course dinner party menu (just in                      Want to know how to peel and devein a prawn
  Sydney Seafood School in the coming          time for mothers Day entertaining).                      all in one go, without having to split it down the
  months, with dietmar Sawyere
                                               Speaking of Mothers day, remember                        back? check out Sydney Seafood School
  (Berowra Waters Inn and ad Lib Bistros)
  opening proceedings on 7 march,              Seafood School gift certificates …                       demonstrator Brigid Treloar’s YouTube clip at
  closely followed by Matt Moran (arIa)        buy online and print immediately                         www.youtube.com/thesydneyfishmarket
  and christine Manfield (universal).          or ask us to mail it for you. Why not give
                                                                                                        for this and other simple seafood ‘how tos’.
                                               mum a gift certificate and arrange to
  We also have a number of new faces           attend a class with her – that’s a gift that
  for you this program, including              money can’t buy: a shared experience.                    Visit the fIShline pages on Sydney Fish market’s
  Jeremy Strode (Bistrode cBD), colin                                                                   website, www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au for tips
  fassnidge (Four in hand), Tomislav           and if you do book a class or order
                                                                                                        on how to purchase the freshest seafood and the
  Martinovic (Tomislav) and Warren             a gift certificate online you’ll go
                                               into the draw to win a fisher &                          best way to store it, as well as recipes, step-by-
  Turnbull (assiette and District Dining).
                                               Paykel dishdrawer dishwasher                             step preparation diagrams, nutritional information
  I’m especially excited to announce a class   (see page 4 for details).                                and information on many popular species.
  with four of the chefs from the ToyS
  (Taste of Young Sydney) collective, on 14    We’ve included a great seafood crepe
  may. TOYS is one of the most refreshing      recipe this issue (page 5) for you to                    Franz Scheurer from australian Gourmet Pages

  things to hit the Sydney food scene in       whip up for Pancake Tuesday on 8                         www.australiangourmetpages.com provides wine
  years – a group of talented young chefs      march, along with deliciously simple                     suggestions for all the recipes in this newsletter.
  (and front of house staff) who are keen to   bream and snapper dishes (page 4).
                                                                                                        The aGP website includes restaurant, food, wine and
  open up the industry; sharing information,   So happy cooking,                                        spirit reviews and articles, and you can subscribe
  techniques and ingredients, pushing their
                                                                                                        to the Free e-newsletter from the homepage.
  own boundaries and inspiring others
  to be part of a profession about which
  they’re passionate. This is a group to                                                                If you’re a fan of smoked seafood, visit
  watch! (see page 6 for more details).                                                                 www.harrissmokehouse.com.au for

  Other favourites returning to the School                                                              some great recipe ideas for smoked eel,
  include damien Pignolet (Bistro moncur),     Roberta Muir                                             salmon, kingfish, oysters and more.




                                                                                              Sydney Seafood School march – june 2011                         1
    Fe aT u re SPecI eS


    BReaM
    Bream are found in shallow tropical and sub-tropical waters all over the world; their family,
    Sparidae, is large, with over 125 species. commonly called sea bream to distinguish them
    from the european freshwater bream, they’re also known as porgies in north america.

    a number of species are found in the                   Tarwhine (Rhabdosargus sarba) is found
    mediterranean, with dentex (Dentex dentex) and         from far north Queensland to Victoria as well
    gilt-head bream (Sparus aurata) being particularly     as along the southwestern coast from albany
    popular and common on menus and in recipes in          to exmouth. It’s often caught with yellowfin
                                                                                                              Snapper.
    Italy, Spain, and southern France. Gilt-head bream     bream, from which it can be distinguished by
    is generally known by a name that refers to the        the yellow lines along its rows of scales.
    golden markings on its head, such as ‘dorada’                                                             BuyInG
                                                           Other breams occasionally seen in retail shops
    in Spanish and ‘orata’ in Italian, while bream’s                                                          Snapper is sold whole (gilled and gutted), in
                                                           or harvested recreationally in various parts of
    english name may come from the Old english                                                                cutlet, steak and fillet forms. Other breams are
                                                           australia include:                                 generally sold whole (gilled and gutted), only
    ‘breme’, meaning fierce or energetic.
                                                           frypan Bream (Argyrops spinifer) is mainly         occasionally as fillets, usually already skinned.
    Six breams are commonly found in australian
                                                           caught off the north-western coast of australia,   In whole fish look for lustrous skin, firm flesh,
    waters. The most popular are:
                                                           although it is found north from the nSW-           and a pleasant, fresh sea smell. In fillets, look
    Snapper (Pagrus auratus), which, despite its                                                              for firm, lustrous, moist flesh without any
                                                           Queensland border to the central coast of
    name, is actually a bream, is caught south from                                                           brown markings or oozing water and with a
                                                           Western australia and is caught in sections of
    Townsville to the central Western australian coast                                                        pleasant fresh sea smell. Flesh colour varies
                                                           the Great Barrier reef.
    (including in Bass Strait and around Tasmania).                                                           from the creamy pink of snapper to the pinker
    It has pinkish skin with pale blue spots and a         Black Bream (Acanthopagrus butcheri) is
                                                                                                              flesh of yellowfin bream, tarwhine, and pikey
    distinctive forehead hump. although it isn’t related   endemic to australia and is usually found in
                                                                                                              bream all of which may have some dark veins
    to the ‘true’ tropical snappers or sea perches         brackish or freshwater in southern australia,      showing. Black bream's flesh is slightly greyish
    (Lutjanidae family) such as goldband snapper, the      though it does appear in salt water in Western     and frypan bream's has a yellowish tint.
    ‘snapper’ name has been retained as it is one of       australia. It’s mainly caught in Victoria,
    australia’s most widely known fish and has gone        especially Gippsland Lakes where the fishery       SToRInG
    by that name for over 100 years.                       goes back to the late 1800s, and is also           make sure whole fish is scaled, gutted and
                                                           common off southern Western australia.             cleaned thoroughly as soon as possible
    yellowfin Bream (Acanthopagrus australis)
                                                                                                              (completely remove the lining of the abdominal
    is endemic to australia and is found along the         Pikey Bream (Acanthopagrus berda) is found
                                                                                                              cavity and the white fat along the abdominal wall).
    eastern coast from far north Queensland to             north from the mid-coast of Queensland to
                                                                                                              Wrap whole fish and fillets in plastic wrap or place
    Victoria, though it’s mainly caught south of           the northern Territory and is a small part of
                                                                                                              in an airtight container. refrigerate for up to 3
    hervey Bay.                                            coastal net-fisheries in those areas.
                                                                                                              days or freeze whole fish for up to 6 months, and
                                                                                                              fillets for up to 3 months, below -18˚c.

                                                                                                              cooKInG & SeRvInG
                                                                                                              Breams are best steamed, poached, pan-fried,
                                                                                                              baked, grilled or barbecued. They’re a good
                                                                                                              plate-sized fish cooked whole and the bones
                                                                                                              (especially of snapper) make excellent stock.
                                                                                                              Snapper has a more delicate flavour than other
                                                                                                              breams and a slightly firmer flesh that breaks
                                                                                                              into large flakes, though larger fish tend to have
                                                                                                              a slightly softer texture. The edible skin can be
                                                                                                              left on. all breams, including snapper, have a
                                                                                                              mild, sweet flavour, and are moist and relatively
                                                                                                              low in oil. Those which live in estuaries and
                                                                                                              rivers, notably tarwhine and black bream, can
                                                                                                              have a slightly coarser, muddy or weedy flavour,
                                                                                                              which can be balanced by cooking with soy
    Yellowfin Bream.                                                                                          sauce, ginger and other asian spices.




2                      Sydney Seafood School march – june 2011
R ec I P e S
STeaMed Whole BReaM
WITh GReen chIllI &
coRIandeR
Steaming is a quick and simple way to cook whole plate-sized fish.
While some people may be daunted at first by tackling a whole
fish, many insist that fish cooked on the bone has the best flavour.

Serves 4
                                                                            SnaPPeR fIlleTS WITh
                                                                            caBBaGe & cRuShed
4 plate-sized bream, scaled, gilled, gutted
² ⁄³ cup fish sauce
¹⁄³ cup lime juice
2 teaspoons grated palm sugar
                                                                            PoTaToeS
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
                                                                            This is a good cool weather dish, with the hearty flavours of potato
4 small green chillies, finely sliced
                                                                            and cabbage and a rich cream sauce.
½ bunch coriander leaves, roughly chopped
2 lemons, zested
                                                                            Serves 4
Steamed jasmine rice, to serve

half fill a wok or large saucepan with water and bring to the boil.         4 x 180g thick snapper fillets, skin on, bones removed
                                                                            Salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
Place a plate in a steamer basket, or line with baking paper.
                                                                            600g desiree potatoes, boiled and peeled
rinse the belly cavity of the fish, rub away any black lining and pat dry   75g butter
with paper towel. cut several deep slashes into the thickest part of        2 cloves garlic
both sides of the fish.
                                                                            2 rashers bacon, finely sliced
Place fish into the steamer. Place steamer over wok or saucepan,            400g Savoy cabbage, finely sliced
cover and steam for 10-12 minutes until the fish is opaque and flesh        1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
flakes easily when tested with a fork.                                      A little extra virgin olive oil
meanwhile, combine fish sauce, lime juice, palm sugar, garlic, chilli       ¼ cup dry white wine
and half the coriander.                                                     ¼ cup cream
remove the plate from the steamer and drain off any excess liquid.
                                                                            cut several slashes into the skin of each fillet, sprinkle both sides with salt and
Pour the fish sauce mixture over the fish and sprinkle with remaining       pepper, cover and refrigerate until needed.
coriander and lemon zest.
                                                                            Place the potatoes in a large bowl and use a wooden spoon to break them into
Serve immediately with steamed jasmine rice.                                bite-sized chunks.

Wine suggestion: With a little fruit sweetness yet savoury complexity,      heat a high-sided frying pan over a medium heat; melt ¹⁄³ of the butter, add
the 2008 yabby lake Pinot Gris stands up to the chilli and                  garlic and bacon. Stir occasionally until the bacon begins to crisp. reduce the
coriander in this dish perfectly. www.yabbylake.com                         heat, add the cabbage and cook, covered, for 5 minutes or until it’s just tender.
                                                                            remove from pan and keep warm.

                                                                            melt half the remaining butter in the pan, and add the potatoes. cook for 5-8
                                                                            minutes, until the potatoes are just beginning to colour, stirring occasionally.
                                                                            add the parsley, remove from pan and keep warm.

                                                                            add remaining butter to the pan. cook the fillets, skin-side down, until their
                                                                            edges become opaque. Turn and cook on the other side until opaque and flesh
                                                                            flakes easily when tested with a fork. remove to a warm plate.

                                                                            add the wine, to the pan and stir well to loosen any cooked on bits of fish or
                                                                            vegetable from the bottom of the pan. Boil for a few minutes then stir in cream
                                                                            and a pinch of salt.

                                                                            Wine suggestion: The cabbage in this dish needs a rich wine with textured
                                                                            tannins; castagna 2009 allegro, with lifted cherry flavours and good acid,
                                                                            cuts through the creamy richness and earthy flavours beautifully.
                                                                            www.castagna.com.au




                                                                                        Sydney Seafood School march – june 2011                                   3
    Go into a draw to WIn a Fisher & Paykel
    new look Single DishDrawer dishwasher
    when you make an online booking.
    Booking online is quick, convenient and secure … and you can do
    it from any computer at any time of the day or night, whenever it’s
    convenient for you. It also saves us time and resources as your
    booking goes straight into our computer without us having to enter
    the data. a WIn-WIn situation.

    So, to say thank you, every time you book online between
    1 march and 30 june 2011 you’ll go into a draw to win a
    fisher & Paykel Single dishdrawer, valued at $1029. When the
    original DishDrawer was launched in 1997, the drawer configuration
    was a world first. The new look model, launched last year, features
    a stylish design with flat, stainless steel front and crisp horizontal
    lines to complement all kitchen cabinetry. Fully adjustable side racks
    accommodate different size cups, glasses and utensils and folding
    tines flatten to make space for large pots, platters and bowls. Plus
    there’s a half load wash option, energy saving features and a delay
    start option. Learn more at www.fisherpaykel.com.au


    So visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au and book now.
    Terms and Conditions: 1. Sydney Seafood School Online Booking Promotion entry is open to all Sydney Seafood School customers. 2. To participate in this promotion book online between midnight on 28 February
    2011 and midnight on 30 June 2011. 3. There is no entry fee involved in participating in this competition, but all participants must be 15 years of age or older. 4. To be eligible to win a Fisher & Paykel Single
    DishDrawer, valued at $1029, entrants must book a Sydney Seafood School cooking class online by midnight on Thursday 30 June 2011. 5. Prize will be drawn at Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009
    at 11am 1 July 2011. The winner will be notified by email on the same day. 6. Promoter is Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009. Phn +61 2 9004 1100. ABN 24 064 254 306. 7. You must ensure that
    all care is taken when making the booking. A booking is not deemed to have been received unless an email confirming the booking has been sent to the customer. 8. Sydney Fish Market accepts no responsibility
    for any booking not received by Sydney Fish Market or delays in the delivery of bookings due to technical disruptions or for any reason. All online bookings are deemed to be received at the time of receipt NOT time
    of transmission by the entrant. 9. Sydney Fish Market reserves the right to keep all entry emails confidential. 10. Employees of Sydney Fish Market and their families are not eligible to enter. 11. The prize is not
    transferable or redeemable for cash. Authorised under NSW Permit No LTPS/10/04327.




    faQ
                                                                               cook over a very low heat with some liquid                                 chinook salmon (farmed in new Zealand and
                                                                               (braising) until the flesh is tender and can be                            marketed as king salmon).
                                                                               easily pierced with a wooden skewer.
                                                                                                                                                          Which seafoods are kosher? kosher
                                                                               Which seafood species are farmed?                                          foods are those that conform to jewish

    anSWerS TO                                                                 australian aquaculture dates back to the
                                                                               1870s, when Sydney rock oysters were
                                                                                                                                                          dietary laws. In terms of seafood, this

    FreQuenTLY aSkeD                                                           cultivated in nSW. Since the 1980s it has
                                                                                                                                                          means only fish with fins and scales.
                                                                                                                                                          Some common australian kosher fish are:
    QueSTIOnS                                                                  really started to grow with blue mussels (in
                                                                               all states except Qld) and atlantic salmon
                                                                                                                                                          albacore, anchovies, barramundi, blue-eye
                                                                                                                                                          trevalla, blue grenadier, bream, flathead,
    check the faQ pages in the fIShline                                        (from Tasmania), two of the first species to
                                                                                                                                                          flounder, garfish, gemfish, mulloway, john
    section of www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au                                     be farmed locally. Other popular aquaculture
                                                                                                                                                          dory, mackerel, morwong, mullet, mulloway,
    and if you can’t find the answer                                           species are: barramundi (Queensland,
                                                                                                                                                          murray cod, orange roughy, pike, red
    there, email your question to                                              nT and Wa), eels (mainly Victoria and
                                                                                                                                                          emperor, redfish, salmon, sardines, snapper,
    fishline@sydneyfishmarket.com.au                                           Queensland), freshwater crayfish (yabby,
                                                                                                                                                          sole, trevally, trout, tuna, warehou (blue and
                                                                               redclaw and marron), murray cod (Victoria
    how can I tell when Squid, octopus and                                     and nSW), oysters (Sydney rock, Pacific                                    silver), whiting and yellowtail kingfish. Some
    cuttlefish are cooked? cephalopods, as                                     and native), prawns (especially banana and                                 common species that are noT kosher
    this group are known, require either very                                  black tiger), silver perch (mainly nSW and                                 are: catfish, eel, shark (sometimes sold as
    quick cooking over a high heat or very                                     Queensland), trout (mainly rainbow trout                                   flake), leatherjackets, ling, rays and skate,
    long cooking over a low heat – anything in                                 grown in freshwater, or in sea cages and                                   and swordfish. Skinless fillets are prohibited
    between renders them tough. If cooking                                     marketed as ocean trout), and yellowtail                                   unless it can be certain they’re from a
    quickly, toss over a high heat just until their                            kingfish and mulloway (mostly from Port                                    kosher species prepared with knives and
    translucent flesh turns opaque. Otherwise,                                 Lincoln, Sa). also available in australia is                               boards thoroughly cleaned before cutting.




4                 Sydney Seafood School march – june 2011
claSSIc dISh                                                                       RecIPe
S e a fo o d                                                                       cheeSy Seafood cRePeS


cRePeS
                                                                                   Serves 8 as an entrée


                                                                                   50g butter
                                                                                   1 small leek, washed well, white part only chopped
The Tuesday before ash Wednesday, which signals the beginning                      1 clove garlic, chopped
of the traditional 40 days of fasting prior to easter, is known
                                                                                   400g green prawns, peeled, deveined, chopped
in many languages as ‘fat Tuesday’ (in french ‘Mardi Gras’).
                                                                                   200g salmon steaks, skin off, cut into bite-sized chunks
In english speaking countries it’s also sometimes called
Pancake Tuesday, due to the tradition of using up all of the rich                  ½ lemon, juiced
ingredients in the house, such as butter, sugar and eggs, to                       Salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
make pancakes for one last feast before the lenten fast.
                                                                                   1 bunch chives, chopped
TIPS foR MaKInG cRePeS:                                                            120g gruyere cheese, grated
• use a heavy-based, shallow pan with sloping sides so the cooked                  8 crepes (see recipe at left)
  crepes will slide out easily;
• reduce the risk of the batter sticking by seasoning the pan: heat it until       Béchamel Sauce
  very hot, add a little butter, let it burn, wipe it out with paper towel, then   25g butter
  repeat this process;                                                             2 tablespoons plain flour
• if batter is too thick to coat the base of the pan evenly before setting,        300ml milk
  stir in 1-2 tablespoons extra milk before making the next crepe;
                                                                                   Pinch salt
• unfilled crepes freeze well, stacked with plastic wrap between each
  one and stored in an airtight freezer bag.                                       Pinch freshly grated nutmeg


                                                                                   Make Béchamel Sauce: melt butter in a saucepan, stir in

cRePeS                                                                             flour and cook for about 4 minutes over a low heat until mixture
                                                                                   crumbles and comes together. Gradually add milk, stirring
¾ cup plain flour
                                                                                   continuously with a wooden spoon. add salt and nutmeg and
Pinch salt
3 eggs                                                                             stir until sauce comes to the boil. remove from heat.
1¼ cups milk
                                                                                   Pre-heat oven to 180°c.
40g butter, melted
                                                                                   melt butter and cook leeks and garlic over low heat until soft.
Sift flour and salt into a bowl and make a well in the centre. combine
milk and eggs and slowly pour into the well, while whisking to                     Push to 1 side of pan, add prawns and salmon, increase
incorporate the flour; stop whisking as soon as all flour is incorporated          heat to medium and cook for 3-4 minutes, turning to brown
and batter is smooth. Stir in butter and strain into a jug. heat a heavy-
                                                                                   all sides. Stir in Béchamel Sauce, lemon juice, salt, pepper,
based pan over a medium heat and grease with a little butter. Pour in
just enough batter to coat the pan, swirling quickly to cover the base             chives and a third of the cheese. remove from heat.
evenly. cook for about 30 seconds, until the edges begin to curl and
                                                                                   Place 1 heaped tablespoon of the mixture in the centre of a
the base is golden brown. Loosen the edges then turn the pancake with
fingers or an egg lift and cook for another 20 seconds or so until golden          crepe, fold in sides to partially enclose then roll up to form
and dry. Slide out of the pan onto a clean cloth. repeat with remaining            a parcel. Place in a greased baking dish, seam side down.
mixture, stacking cooked crepes on top of one another.
                                                                                   repeat with remaining crepes, forming a single layer of filled
Photo by Franz Scheurer.                                                           crepes. Sprinkle remaining gruyere over the top and bake for
                                                                                   15-20 minutes until filling is heated through and cheese is
                                                                                   slightly browned.


                                                                                   Wine suggestion: everyone loves seafood crepes, and
                                                                                   they also love soft, creamy wines with a perfect balance
                                                                                   between sugar and acid, such as elderton 2010 eden
                                                                                   valley Riesling. The citrus and lavender flavours provide a
                                                                                   great contrast for the creamy texture of the béchamel sauce.
                                                                                   www.eldertonwines.com.au




                                                                                                Sydney Seafood School march – june 2011               5
                                                                                                   PRaWn cevIche
                                                                                                   WITh fennel,
                                                                                                   BlacK funGuS,
                                                                                                   KIM chI &
                                                                                                   TIGeR’S MIlK
                                                                                                   Serves 6 as an entrée

                                                                                                   18 sashimi-grade green prawns
                                                                                                   1 bulb baby fennel, finely shaved
                                                                                                   150g fresh black fungus




    TOYS
                                                                                                   100g kim chi, roughly chopped


                                                           TaSTe                                   1 bunch coriander (roots and stems reserved)
                                                                                                   Extra virgin olive oil, to taste

                                                           OF YOunG                                Salt flakes, to taste


                                                           SYDneY                                  Tiger’s Milk
                                                                                                   1 bulb fennel, roughly chopped
                                                                                                   Coriander stems and roots, roughly chopped
    one of the most exciting things to             restaurant), Yu-ching Lee (ex-Sepia) and
                                                   monty koludrovic (Bécasse). The TOYS            3 green tomatoes, roughly chopped
    hit the Sydney food scene in 2010
    was ToyS (Taste of young Sydney),              family is now also about more than just         1 telegraph cucumber, roughly chopped
                                                   chefs, with Sydney’s best young front-of-       2 golden shallots, roughly chopped
    a collective born out of the desire of
                                                   house staff (such as kylie javier of Duke
    some of Sydney’s brightest young talent                                                        1 long green chilli, roughly chopped
                                                   Bistro, and previously Bentley restaurant
    to prove what the next generation is           & Bar), sommeliers (like Banjo harris-Plane     2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
    capable of when left to its own devices.       from est.) and mixologists (including Luke      2 limes, zested and juiced
    It all started with Sydney morning herald      ashton from Ivy Pool Bar) joining in to         1 tablespoon salt flakes
    journalist, helen Greenwood, talking to        stage some unique and memorable one-off
                                                                                                   ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
    morgan mcGlone at Flinders Inn and asking      dinners. Thematically, TOYS sets down a
                                                   challenging gauntlet for both chef and diner,   Fish sauce, to taste
    what ‘the young guys’ were up to and why
                                                   with dinner themes such as ‘Phat’ and ‘Skin &   2 tablespoons castor sugar, more or less
    we weren’t hearing more from this next
    wave of Sydney chefs. mcGlone’s initial        Bones’ producing dishes like Pasi Petanen’s
                                                   ménage a Trios (skin and bone of sardine),      Make Tiger’s Milk: combine all ingredients, except
    reaction was that no one would want to
    know (how wrong he was!) … but it started      Darren robertson’s Off the hook (tuna, yuzu     fish sauce and sugar, in a blender and process to
    him thinking about a group of mates doing      buttermilk, poached bone marrow, elk), mitch    a smooth liquid. Leave to marinate for 1 hour. Pass
    something to benefit each other and the        Orr’s Boneyards (beetroot, chocolate, goats
                                                                                                   through a fine sieve, pressing down with the bottom
    industry. he chatted to Darren robertson,      cheese, bresaola) and Yu-ching Lee’s Will
                                                   you marrow me? (white chocolate custard,        of a ladle to extract as much liquid as possible.
    then executive chef of Tetsuya’s, who
    suggested bringing Dan hong from Lotus         mandarin jelly, olive shortbread). These Gen    Season with fish sauce and sugar, it should be salty,
    (and now ms G’s) on board. next came           Y’s are keen to push the culinary envelope      sour and a little sweet. refrigerate.
    pâtissière extraordinaire, adriano Zumbo,      and redefine the dining experience; right
                                                   down to each chef choosing a sound track        Peel, devein and halve prawns lengthways; blanch in
    who suggested calling on mitch Orr (now of
    Duke Bistro), winner of the 2010 josephine     to accompany their dish at recent dinners.      boiling salted water for 5 seconds and refresh in iced
    Pignolet award for best young chef, and        The TOYS boys and girls aim to inspire the      water. Pat dry. combine with fennel, fungus, kim chi,
    in Orr’s words: “From there the family         next generation of hospitality professionals    coriander leaves, olive oil and salt and mound into 6
    has grown.” he explains: “For me TOYS          to keep the open mindedness and sharing
                                                                                                   flat bowls. Ladle the Tiger’s milk over the top, drizzle
    is about fun with friends, dinners without     going, doing it for the love of great food
    rules or boundaries … we want to open the      and drink rather than the hope of getting       with olive oil and serve Immediately.
    industry up, share information, techniques     their faces on TV. This is a group to watch!    * recipe by Dan Hong
    and ingredients – it pushes us forward as
                                                   See ToyS boys dan hong
    chefs and creates bonds of friendship.”
                                                   (Ms G's/lotus), darren Robertson,               Wine suggestion: The 10-year-old croser 2000
    as the collective evolves, the line-up         Morgan McGlone (flinders Inn),
                                                                                                   late disgorged Pinot noir/chardonnay has
    changes to reflect those within the industry   & Monty Koludrovic (Bécasse) at
    that their peers consider to be the most                                                       lovely yeasty, brioche flavours to soak up the natural
                                                   Sydney Seafood School on 14 May.
    exciting, promising new talent, such as        visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au               aggressiveness of the Tiger’s milk in this dish.
    relative new-comers Pasi Petanen (marque       or call 9004 1111 to book.                      www.croser.com.au




6                    Sydney Seafood School march – june 2011
PoachInG                                                                                                 RedThRoaT
                                                                                                         eMPeRoR fIlleTS
                                                                                                         In coconuT
This gentle method of cooking involves submerging food in hot liquid without
boiling it; the liquid should be heated to the point where it just barely trembles.                      cuRRy Sauce
Being a calm method that doesn’t jostle the food about too much, and that helps
                                                                                                         Serves 4
retain moisture in the food, poaching is ideal for seafood which is relatively low in
fat and has a delicate structure.                                                                        ¼ cup vegetable oil
                                                                                                         1 small brown onion, finely chopped
                                                                                                         1 clove garlic, crushed
a foolproof method for poaching whole fish to serve cold, such as salmon, is to place                    1 small red chilli, seeded and finely chopped
the fish in cold salted water over a low heat, cover, and as soon as the water starts to                 1 tablespoon grated ginger
simmer with tiny bubbles appearing, remove from the heat, uncover and leave to cool                      2 teaspoons ground coriander
                                                                                                         1 teaspoon ground cumin
in the poaching liquid. By the time it’s cooled it will be perfectly cooked and wonderfully
                                                                                                         1 teaspoon ground turmeric
succulent. as a larger volume of poaching liquid takes longer to heat and longer to cool,                1 teaspoon garam masala
this method cooks both large and small fish perfectly.                                                   1 teaspoon salt flakes
                                                                                                         700ml coconut milk
                                                                                                         4 x 180g redthroat emperor fillets, skin off, bones removed
TIPS foR PoachInG Seafood:                                                                               ¼ cup coriander leaves
• It’s worth investing in a metal fish kettle if you want to poach large whole fish such                 Steamed basmati rice, to serve

  as salmon.                                                                                             heat a wok or large saucepan over a medium heat.
                                                                                                         add oil and cook onion until soft but not coloured.
• Place whole fish on a rack to make it easier to lift it from the pan or kettle.
                                                                                                         add garlic, chilli and ginger and cook for 1 minute.
• If poaching fillets or several small whole fish make sure they’re arranged in the pan in a             add ground coriander, cumin, turmeric, garam
                                                                                                         masala and salt and cook for a further minute, stirring
  single layer.
                                                                                                         constantly. add coconut milk and bring to the boil,
• unless using the above method to cook fish to be served cold, bring the poaching liquid                reduce heat and simmer for about 2 minutes, until the
                                                                                                         sauce starts to thicken.
  to a gentle simmer before placing the seafood in it.
                                                                                                         add fillets and poach over a low heat for 5-8 minutes,
• cover pan with a lid, or aluminium foil, to prevent too much poaching liquid from                      until the flesh flakes easily when tested with a fork.
  evaporating.
                                                                                                         Garnish with coriander leaves and serve with
• cook fish under 1kg for about 1 minute/100g (minimum 5 minutes), add 5 minutes for                     steamed rice.

  each additional kilogram (or 1 minute/200g).
                                                                                                         Wine Suggestion: This is a seafood dish with enough
                                                                                                         bold flavour to stand up to a red wine and Wirra
Seafood SuITaBle foR PoachInG:                                                                           Wirra original Blend Grenache Shiraz 2009
                                                                                                         delivers the goods without overshadowing the fish’s
• White, firm-fleshed fish such as blue-eye trevalla, coral trout, goldband snapper,                     wonderful flavours. www.wirrawirra.com
  leatherjacket, ling, murray cod, rays and skate, red emperor, snapper, whiting;
                                                                                                         Sydney Seafood School’s regular Quick’n’delicious
• Pink-fleshed fish such as salmon and rainbow trout;                                                    classes feature salmon poached in a red curry
• Bugs, crabs, marron, prawns, rocklobsters, yabby;                                                      sauce. The next ones are on 23 March, 6 april &
                                                                                                         9 June. visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or call
• Quenelles of seafood made from pureed fish, prawns, scallops or other seafood;                         9004 1111 to book.

• curries usually involve poaching seafood in stock or coconut milk flavoured with a                     Photo by Franz Scheurer.
  spice paste.


PoachInG lIQuIdS:

• court-bouillon (a vegetable stock with lemon juice, vinegar or another acid added)

• stock

• salted water

• coconut milk (often flavoured with spice pastes for curries)

• milk

• wine




                                                                                               Sydney Seafood School march – june 2011                                 7
    PRaWn on a STIcK WITh
    BlacK & WhITe SeSaMe                                                                                                         BooK
    6 green banana prawns
    6 short bamboo skewers
                                                                                                                                 RevIeW
    20ml vegetable oil                                                                                                           Bentley contemporary cuisine
    30g white sesame seeds, toasted
                                                                                                                                 by Brent Savage
    30g black sesame seeds, toasted
    Aïoli, to serve (recipe follows)                                                                                             This striking book
                                                                                                                                 really captures
    Peel the prawns and remove the heads and tails.                                                                              the spirit of one
    Thread a prawn onto each skewer.                                                                                             of Sydney’s
                                                                                                                                 most popular
    heat the oil in a frying pan over high heat.
                                                                                                                                 restaurants, with
    add the prawns and cook for about 1 minute                                                                                   its suede-feel
    each side, until just cooked through.                                                                                        black cover, white
    combine the sesame seeds and roll the                                                                                        text on black
    prawns in them.                                                                                                              pages and photos
                                                                                                                                 of Brent Savage’s
    Serve with aïoli for dipping.                                                                                                artfully arranged food, as well as Bentley’s
                                                                                                                                 funky dining room and staff. But don’t fear
    aïoli
                                                                                                                                 that it’s all design over substance, Savage’s
    1 egg yolk                                                                                                                   food philosophy is clear, “… the food should,
    10g Dijon mustard                                                                                                            above all, taste great.”
    2 teaspoons lemon juice
                                                                                                                                 Savage cites Spain and France as his main
    2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
                                                                                                                                 culinary influences, but adds a sprinkling
    1 clove garlic, crushed
                                                                                                                                 of the middle east and asia for his love of
    Salt flakes, to taste
                                                                                                                                 spice, representing the cultural melting pot
    2 teaspoons Pernod                                                                                                           that is australian cuisine. If you’re keen to try
    Whisk egg yolk, mustard, lemon juice, vinegar, garlic and salt together until thick and glossy.                              your hand at sous vide, spherification and
                                                                                                                                 thermal reversible gels, this is the book for
    Whisking continuously, gradually drizzle in the oil until thick and emulsified. Stir in Pernod.
                                                                                                                                 you, opening with a chapter explaining how
    Wine Suggestion: The intense flavours of this dish need a floral, citrus-forward, buttery                                    to perform these techniques in a domestic
    white wine, such as the 2009 Woodstock chardonnay, which delivers on all counts.                                             kitchen before a useful glossary explaining
                                                                                                                                 ingredients, equipment and techniques used
    www.woodstockwine.com.au
                                                                                                                                 in this brave new culinary world.
    recipe from Bentley Contemporary Cuisine by Brent Savage. Photo by Luke Burgess.                                             recipes cover appetisers (perfect for shared
                                                                                                                                 plates or canapés), full-of-flavour entrées,
                                                                                                                                 mains (the easiest dishes, about produce
    fRee SuBScRIPTIon To fIShlIne neWS                                                                                           rather than technique), desserts (often with
                                                                                                                                 a savoury twist) and drinks (cocktails, plus
    If you’d like to receive a copy of FIShline news and the Sydney Seafood School program                                       co-owner/sommelier nick hildebrandt’s food
    of classes 3 times a year, please email your details to sss@sydneyfishmarket.com.au.                                         and wine matching notes). Seafood features
                                                                                                                                 prominently, from an appetiser of aïoli-bound
    a full program of classes and FIShline recipes, storage tips and species information are
                                                                                                                                 blue swimmer crab wrapped in sheets of
    available at www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au.                                                                                    green mango, through an entrée of citrus-
                                                                                                                                 glazed mackerel with almond and parmesan
                                                                                                                                 tartine and soft herb salad, to a main course
    T o c o n Ta c T S y d n e y f I S h M a R K e T:                                                                            baby snapper with sweetcorn, zucchini, black
                                                                                                                                 fungi and squid ink which has been on the
    (aBn 24 064 254 306)                                                                                                         restaurant menu since it opened.
    call            reception                +61 2 9004 1100                                                                     While this isn’t a book for those wanting to
                    FIShline                 +61 2 9004 1122                                                                     have dinner on the table in 30 minutes after
                                                                                                                                 work, there are some simpler dishes such as
                    Seafood School           +61 2 9004 1111
                                                                                                                                 the prawn recipe at right and those amazing
    eMaIl           reception@sydneyfishmarket.com.au                                                                            hot ricotta dumplings with strawberry puree.
    WRITe           Locked Bag 247, Pyrmont nSW 2009, australia                                                                  It’s largely a book for the adventurous cook
                                                                                                                                 who will either faithfully reproduce recipes
    vISIT           cnr Bank St and Pyrmont Bridge rd, Pyrmont                                                                   with up to 10 components or pore over
    WeBSITe www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au                                                                                          the pages to glean inspiration for their
                                                                                                                                 own culinary adventures.
    Sydney Fish Market retailers are open every day except Christmas Day
                                                                                                                                 RRP $69.95 (Murdoch)
    disclaimer: The information in this newsletter is provided in good faith. While Sydney Fish market Pty Ltd makes             ISBn 978-1741968170
    reasonable efforts to ensure information in this newsletter is up to date and accurate, neither Sydney Fish market Pty
                                                                                                                                 Brent will present one of his favourite
    Ltd nor any of its related bodies corporate (as defined in section 50 of corporations Law) makes any representation or
    gives any warranty as to the currency, accuracy, reliability or completeness of any information in this newsletter. To the
                                                                                                                                 seafood recipes from his new book at
    extent permitted by law, Sydney Fish market Pty Ltd accepts no responsibility or liability for any loss, damage or injury    Sydney Seafood School on 24 May 2011.
    suffered by the user consequent upon, or incidental to, the information in this newsletter.                                  visit www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au or
                                                                                                                                 call 9004 1111 to book.


8                           Sydney Seafood School march – june 2011

				
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