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									56 DARLING TOUR
                                                           DARLING TOUR                   57

DARLING TOWNSHIP was named in 1822
                                               The tour starts at Brightside.
for Lieutenant Colonel Henry Charles
                                               Approximately 125 kilometres and three
Darling, military secretary to Lord
                                               hours of in-car driving time, this tour
Dalhousie, Governor-in-Chief of Canada at
                                               has fuel stops at Calabogie, the White
Quebec City. Col. Darling was responsible
                                               Lake General Store and Gemmill’s
for the army at Quebec and the garrisons
                                               General Store in Clayton. Picnic Areas
from Lake Superior to Newfoundland.
                                               and washrooms are available at
The rugged terrain of this part of Lanark
                                               Heritage Point in Calabogie, at 4108
County attracted fewer settlers (only 571
                                               Calabogie Road along the shore of the
by 1850) and to this day remains sparsely
                                               Madawaska River, at the Waba Cottage
inhabited, yet it attracts a large cottage
                                               Museum in White Lake and at the
                                               Clayton Taylor Lake Access Point in
                                               Clayton. A picnic area is located along
BRIGHTSIDE — Known as the “Little
                                               the Madawaska River, just after the turn
Clachan” meaning “hamlet” in Gaelic,
                                               onto Highway 508 at Calabogie. A small
Brightside was the original settlement area
                                               public beach and picnic tables are found
of William Caldwell, a Paisley weaver
                                               along the shores of White Lake in the
whose descendents went on to have many
                                               village of White Lake. Plus, there is a
lumber and retail interests throughout the
                                               small beach on Robb’s Lake near
area. Caldwell played a major role in the
                                               Tatlock. Food and refreshments are
development of Lanark.
                                               available in Calabogie, Burnstown,
                                               White Lake, and Clayton.
1. Classic Settler’s Cabin, 6693 Highway
511 — Over the bridge past Brightside and     house on the left shows the style of
up and over two long hills, a typical log     dwelling common in the early days of
     settlement in
     Surrounded by
     neat fields and
     nestled in its
     own miniature
     valley, it was first
     settled in the late
     1840s by a
     pioneer, Joachim

     Situated on the
     shores of
     Calabogie Lake,
     this old lumber
     town sprang up      Madawaska river boat
     when the lake was formed by the                 Follow Highway 511 through Calabogie
     damming of the Madawaska River. Vast            and turn right onto Highway 508
     timber drives were contained in the lake        (Calabogie Road).
     before the logs were floated down to the
     Ottawa River. As transportation needs           SPRINGTOWN — Gerrard McCrea, one of
     increased, the K&P railway became part of       the founders, named this settlement after
     the thriving lumber industry when it            his home in Ireland. A flourishing trade
     expanded into Calabogie in 1884. A rock         centre in pioneer times, it was on the main
     causeway was built across Calabogie Lake        road to the lumber camps up the
     for the new railbed. Calabogie is now           Madawaska and it was here that the road
     well-known as a four-season resort town.        branched to go to inland settlements. At
                                                     the start of 16 miles of treacherous rapids,
     2. Heritage Point, 12517 Highway 511 —          known as the Long Rapids, the town was
     The tourist information centre on the           especially busy in the spring. The rivermen
     north shore of Calabogie features a             stopped to boom their logs before starting
     relocated settler’s log dwelling with a large   the trip through the rapids. By the early
     mill stone outside.                             1850s, there were hotels, various stores,
                                                     shoemakers, and a post office. Thirty
     3. Barryvale K&P Railway Station, on            years later, when Calabogie started to grow
     the west side of the road next to 12617         and prosper with the arrival of the railway,
     Highway 511 — The little station formerly       Springtown diminished.
     at Barryvale, a stop south of Calabogie on
     the K&P Railway was moved from this             4. Stillpoint, 2967 Calabogie Road — The
     location and now forms part of a gift shop.     former McCrea family farm and “stopping
                                                             DARLING TOUR                  59
place” offered hospitality to the many         BURNSTOWN — This picturesque town
“portageurs” who accompanied their logs        on the banks of the Madawaska River has
down the Madawaska River. At this              many preserved historic buildings,
historic 22-room log inn on the riverfront,    including the old brick schoolhouse, and
there was always a room provided for the       the former Leckie’s Hotel (now Fog Run
priest, the doctor and the schoolteacher.      Inn), where McNab township settlers
Mass was offered in the McCrea parlour as      planned to overthrow of the last Laird of
early as 1838. It was known as a place         McNab.
where the early settlers gathered for family
celebrations and social occasions. It is       6. Burnstown General Store, 1694
now a retreat centre.                          Burnstown Road — The first log section
                                               built in 1829 was the original general
5. St. Gabriel’s Roman Catholic Church,        store, with brick sections added in 1879.
2968 Calabogie Road — This is the              The Robertson family formerly operated
second oldest stone church in the Upper        the store. It is now The General Store
Ottawa Valley. It was built by Edward          Publishing House.
McCrea, one of Springtown’s founding
pioneers and was blessed on Jan. 20,           At Burnstown, turn right onto Burnstown
1854. St. Gabriel’s was associated with the    Road.
Renfrew Mission. Settlers along the shores
of Calabogie Lake regularly walked to St.      7. Burnstown United Church, 1673
Gabriel’s to attend mass before a chuch        Burnstown Road — Built in 1899, the
was built in Calabogie in 1896. The            former Presbyterian church replaced a log
church celebrated its last mass in 1952.       church built c.1848 on the same site. It
                                               was originally a Free Church.
     Cross the bridge over the Madawaska
     River and turn left at the top of the hill       THE LAST LAIRD McNAB — Archibald McNab was
     (McLeod Building Supply Road).                   the last chieftain of the McNab clan from the Loch Tay
                                                      region in Scotland. In order to escape heavy debts, he
     8. Scenic Lookout — The lookout offers           fled to Upper Canada where he negotiated for land
     a spectacular view of the Madawaska River        along the Ottawa River so that he might bring his
     and the old church. An historic plaque           clansmen from Scotland as settlers. He was
     commemorates the construction of the             empowered by the government to assign up to 100
     bridge at Johnson’s Rock, Burnstown by           acres per family and was personally granted 1,200
     Mr. Duncan McNab, a lumberman, who               acres, which could be increased upon completion of
     received a fee of 200 pounds.                    the development. In 1825, 84 settlers were met on
                                                      their arrival by McNab and his piper. From there, they
     Return to the Burnstown Road and                 traveled by boat or walked through the bush for three
     continue to White Lake.                          weeks until they reached their new settlement at
                                                      Chats Lake. Under McNab, they endured many
     WHITE LAKE — The hamlet of White Lake            hardships - provisions were scarce and had to be
     was once the largest population centre in        carried long distances for the first three years. The
     McNab township (now McNab-Braeside).             already impoverished Scots were hounded for interest
     It is situated on the scenic north shore of      payments required on any money spent on their
     White Lake, so named from the literal            behalf and then forbidden the right to work outside
     translation of the original Algonkin term        McNab’s “serfdom.” Young children in the settlement
     “waba sagaigun” - meaning “white lake.”          came close to starvation. Meanwhile, the Laird gave
     Algonquin people lived in this region for        lavish parties financed by money flowing in as income
     thousands of years before the arrival of         from his large timber interests. Petitions against
     Europeans. Known at one time as “feud            McNab were drawn up by the settlers and sent to
     country,” White Lake was at the centre of        public bodies. But McNab’s strong support of the
     the settlers’ rebellion against the Last Laird   Family Compact - the ruling oligarchy of the time in
     McNab.                                           Upper Canada - caused their pleas to fall upon deaf
                                                      ears. At the time of the 1837 Rebellion, McNab was
     The village of White Lake is known for           appointed “Laird Colonel of the 20th Battalion of
     another remarkable historical reason             Carleton Light Infantry.” Yet his own clansmen,
     involving, unexpectedly, the discovery of        fearing that McNab would gain even more power over
     the remains of a large whale. After the          them in a time of military service, refused to serve
     most recent ice age - which ended some           under his command. Finally, the Crown Lands Agent
     12,000 years ago - a great saltwater sea was     at Perth was appointed to investigate, and, after
     formed from the melting of the glaciers. It      surveying the settlers, concluded that all charges
     was called the Champlain Sea, since it           against McNab were valid. McNab, sensing trouble
     covered much of Eastern Canada,                  ahead, quickly offered to sell all of his land to the
     including part the Ottawa Valley and part        government for 9,000 pounds and ended up settling
     of Lanark Highlands, for about 2,000 years.      for 2,500 pounds. The government began issuing
     In October 1975, the bones of an 11,500-         Crown grants to the settlers, removing the Laird’s
     year-old mature Bowhead whale was                feudal powers. His fortunes continued to dwindle,
     found in a sand pit just west of White Lake      and though he tried suing his clansmen for his losses,
     Village. The bones from this massive sea         he was unsuccessful and returned to Europe. He died
     mammal are now in the National Museum            in 1860 in a small village in France. The township
     of Natural Sciences in Ottawa.                   retains his name.
                                                           DARLING TOUR                     61
9. Waba Cottage Museum — Located on           12. St. Andrew’s United Church,
the north shore of White Lake, just as you    3 Burnstown Road — This church was
enter the community of the same name,         built in 1881 and was originally used as a
the Waba Cottage Museum houses displays       Presbyterian Church.
of authentic and interesting memorabilia
about the founder of McNab Township,          At the stop sign, Burnstown Road turns
Archibald McNab and his family. The           into Bellamy Road. Continue straight on
original McNab home was demolished in         Bellamy Road.
1936 and its ruins have been faithfully
reconstructed on the original site. There     13. The Bellamy Road — Built under the
is also a log schoolhouse that was built in   rule of the Laird McNab, this historic road
1878 and a church, originally built in        connects White Lake and Clayton, formerly
White Lake village as a “penny reading        Bellamy’s Mills.
house” for a temperance society. The
museum is open daily July 1 to Labour         Bellamy Road for a short distance
Day from 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. and           becomes 4th Concession Pakenham before
weekends only from Victoria Day to June       it once again becomes Bellamy Road.
30. Appointments can be made by calling
(613) 623-8853 or (613) 623-5756.             UNEEDA — Although no road sign marks
                                              this community, Uneeda was once a
10. Stirling House, 90 Burnstown Road         thriving settlement, with a post office in
— This house was built in the mid-1800s       operation from 1905 to 1915. The story of
and over the years it has been a shoe         how the community got its name comes
making shop, the general store, post office   from a schoolteacher who was boarding
and library. It is presently Castlegarth      with one of the families along the Bellamy
Restaurant, a completely organic-style        Road. She began complaining about the
eatery.                                       lack of mail delivery and said “You need a
                                              post office!” - and Uneeda Post Office was
11. The Box House, across the street          born. The former schoolhouse located at
from Stirling House — Built in 1846 by        2604 Bellamy Road is now a private
the Laird of McNab’s son, it operated as a    residence. The schoolteacher’s house was
hotel for many years.                         across the road at 2617. The thriving

Clayton Schoolhouse on the left

     Methodist Church at 2569 Bellamy Road,          Bennie’s Mills Road, turn right on
     was reported to have some 200 people in         Bellamy Mills Road. This winding road
     attendance at the first services. The           first tunnels through sugar bushes before
     original drive shed for the horse and           passing through long-settled farmland,
     buggies is still standing to the right of the   finally arriving at Clayton, formerly
     house.                                          known as Bellamy’s Mills. The road once
                                                     again is paved.
     Peneshula Road to the right leads to a
     number of resorts and campgrounds on            CLAYTON — This pretty little village along
     White Lake. Bellamy Road continues              the shores of the Indian River came into
     straight and becomes a gravel road.             existence around 1821. In 1824, Edmund
     Where Cedar Hill Side Road leading to           Bellamy, an American, established a saw
     Highway 15 goes off to the left, Bellamy        and grist mill on the river - which boasts
     Road turns into 6th Concession S.,              12- to 15-foot waterfalls - near where some
     Pakenham. Continue on the 6th                   of the last aboriginal people of the area
     Concession and after passing an old             had lived. Bellamy added a 100-gallon
     sugar shack on the right, Clarence Fulton       distillery and carding mill. Bellamy’s Mills,
     Maple Sugar Bush, the road turns left,          as it was then known, developed into a
     becoming Sugar Bush Road. At the next           flourishing community of 250 people with
     intersection turn right onto Ramsay             some 20 businesses including a library,
     Concession 7B, and then after crossing the      cooperage, tannery, cheese factory and
                                                                  DARLING TOUR                       63
                                    blacksmith.       18. Guthrie United Church, 2819 Tatlock
Small-scale mining became           Interesting       Road — Built in 1897 as the Presbyterian
economically important to the       architectural     Church, it became the United Church in
western portion of Lanark           details of the    1825.
County beginning in the mid-        shops and
1800s. Mining made it possible      homes in          19. Former Methodist Church, 2791
for some settlers to supplement     Clayton reflect   Tatlock Road — The original Methodist
their farming incomes. Barite,      the American      Church burned in 1853 and was replaced
gold, graphite, iron, marble,       colonial          with this red brick building in 1879. It was
mica, feldspar and other            influence. The    closed for services in 1919. It is now a
minerals were mined in various-     name of the       private home.
sized pockets throughout the        community was
area. Mining is still carried on    changed to        20. St. George’s Anglican Church, 2786
today at the calcium crystalline    Clayton in        Tatlock Road — Built in 1901, St. George’s
limestone open pit near Tatlock.    1858.             is known as a masterpiece of small church
Quality open pit gravel can be                        design. The first Anglican Church was a log
seen throughout the Highlands.     14. Old            building, built in 1840 on the site of the
                                   Schoolhouse,       present St. George’s Cemetery. When this
      1252 Bellamy Mills Road — Coming into           building was constructed, six “stone bees”
      the town is the former schoolhouse, one of      were held to clear the land.
      the two schools in the village. It is now a
      private home.                                   The tour continues by taking the Tatlock
                                                      Road west towards Tatlock.
      15. Gemmill’s General Store, 2862
      Tatlock Road — The general store on the         HALL’S MILLS — All that remains of the
      corner was built in 1854. The Gemmill           former settlement is a bridge and a white
      family has owned and operated the store         clapboard house at 4186 Tatlock Road. In
      since 1974 and continues to serve a wide        1856, it was the first frame house built in
      range of goods as it has for nearly a century   Darling township. William Hall, after whom
      and a half.                                     the settlement was named, lived here. In
                                                      1885, Mr. Hall went to Colorado for health
      16. Old hotel, 2860 Tatlock Road — This         purposes, but ironically, caught smallpox
      was originally a hotel. The Clayton Fair was    there and died.
      held here every year in the front yard of the
      hotel. It is now a private residence.           TATLOCK — Once a thriving village,
                                                      Tatlock is now perhaps more interesting
      The next sites are best seen on foot.           because of its geology. The outcroppings of
                                                      natural marble along the roadsides were
      17. Dam and Mill Site, Clayton — In the         formed by the effects of incredible pressure
      heart of the village is Taylor Lake Access      and heat from the glaciers that once
      Point. It has a large park where water          covered the area.
      turbines and hasher plates preserved from
      the days of the old mills are on display.       On the right side coming into the hamlet
      This is a delightful spot for a picnic beside   (5504 Tatlock Road) is St. Peter’s United
      the sparkling waters of the lake.               Church, which was constructed in 1893.
     At the intersection, below on the right is   22. Tatlock Marble Quarry — Quarry
     the former schoolhouse, which was later      work has been carried out in this area
     converted into the Darling Township          since the early 1900s. This open pit
     Office. It is now used by the Volunteer      quarry with its snow-white expanse is
     Fire Department. On the corner at 5531       spectacular and can be viewed easily from
     Tatlock Road is the former Brightside        the tourist interpretative lookout on the
     Presbyterian Church. It was moved here       road. The quarry contains a high quality
     in 1939 and, for the past 23 years, has      deposit of calcium crystalline limestone
     been maintained by the Seniors Group as      with the Precambrian-Grenville series of
     a community centre.                          meta sedimentary rocks. This marble,
                                                  once processed is used in a wide variety of
     For a swim in a crystal clear lake at        industrial applications. Adjacent to this
     Tatlock, instead of turning left (the        quarry is the Blue Quarry. It too is
     continuation of Tatlock Road), continue      metamorphized calcium-rich limestone,
     straight on 7th Concession Darling and       approximately 1,255 million years old.
     left onto Caldwell Lane to Robb’s Lake       This unique pale sky-blue marble is used
     Beach.                                       for building and has been installed as
                                                  flooring in the Governor General’s
     21. Robb’s Lake Beach, 520 Caldwell          residence in Ottawa.
     Lane — This is a small beach on a clear
     lake, a short walk down a lane.              The return to Brightside completes the
     Continue on Tatlock Road, now a gravel
     road, headed southwest.

     Time to motor home...

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