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SYDNEY SEAFOOD SCHOOL                                                                                                   J U LY – O C T O B E R 2 0 1 0

  R o B e R Ta’ S L E T T E R
                                                 Seafood BBQ is still our most popular
                                                 class though and this program we’re
                                                 giving away a Beefeater 4-burner
                                                 Discovery plus BBQ valued at $1099
                                                 (details on page 5). All you have to do to                   Visit the fIShline pages on Sydney Fish Market’s
                                                 enter the draw is use our online booking                     website, for
                                                 system – it’s quick, convenient and                          tips on purchasing, storing and cooking seafood,
                                                 secure and means you can book from
                                                                                                              as well as step-by-step preparation diagrams,
                                                 any computer at any time of the day or
                                                 night, whenever it’s convenient for you.                     nutritional information and information on many
                                                 Every online booking made before                             popular species.
                                                 1 November will go into the draw to win
  Sydney Seafood School has a feast              this great prize.
                                                                                                              If our Salmon species feature (pages 2 & 3) whets
  of hot classes scheduled to warm up
                                                 With father’s day coming up, remember                        your appetite, go to the
  the colder months ahead, starting with
                                                 that a Seafood School gift certificate
  bistro classics from damien Pignolet                                                                        home of new Zealand’s King Salmon, for more
                                                 makes a great gift. They’re available for
  (Bistro Moncur) and Jason Roberts (The                                                                      delicious recipes and info on how this fish is farmed.
                                                 any amount and valid for 12-months …
  Bellevue Hotel) on 10 July. The French
                                                 and if you plan to attend a class with Dad
  theme continues, just in time for Bastille
                                                 you’re giving him a gift that money can’t                    Learn more about the Australian seafood industry,
  Day, with Justin north (Bécasse) and his
                                                 buy: a shared experience. You can even                       and the fishermen who put the world’s best
  head chef from Etch, James Metcalfe,
                                                 purchase a gift certificate online and print
  on 12 July; Guillaume Brahimi                                                                               seafood on our tables, at aussie Seafood
                                                 it out from your home printer – perfect for
  (Guillaume at Bennelong) on 24 July; and                                                           – with lots of great
                                                 last minute shopping!
  Matthew Kemp (Restaurant Balzac &
                                                                                                              recipes and information on lesser-known species.
  The Burlington) on 26 July.                    Several of the recipes in this issue of
                                                 FISHline News have been developed in
  If Asian, Mod Oz or Italian’s more your                                                                     Multicultural Sydney-siders think nothing of eating
                                                 response to reader requests, such as the
  taste, there are also classes with Mark        whole poached salmon on page 3 and the                       Italian, Vietnamese and Argentinean food all in the
  Jensen (Red Lantern), Gourmet Farmer           ceviche on page 8. So if there’s a seafood
  Matthew evans, christine Manfield                                                                           same week. If you need a little help translating
                                                 recipe you’re keen to try, have a look on the
  (Universal), dan hong (Lotus), lucio                                                                        some of those delicious foreign dishes, What am
                                                 recipe pages of the FISHline section of our
  Galletto (Lucio’s), Giovanni Pilu (Pilu at     website                          I eating is the website
  Freshwater), Mark Best (Marque), and           and if it’s not there, let us know and we’ll do              for you, with over 63,200 terms in 302 languages.
  dietmar Sawyere (Berowra Waters Inn            our best to include it in a future newsletter.
  & Ad Lib Bistro, see guest chef profile on
                                                 Happy cooking, we hope to see you at a                       Franz Scheurer from australian Gourmet
  page 6). Kathy Snowball also presents
                                                 Seafood School class soon.                                   Pages
  another of her seasonal dinner party
  menus (with dessert, something quite                                                                        provides wine suggestions for all the recipes in
  rare at the Seafood School), and lyndey
                                                                                                              this newsletter. The AGP website includes
  Milan’s next food and wine workshop
                                                                                                              restaurant, food, wine and spirit reviews and
  shows that food cooked with spice
  needn’t be ‘spicy’ and can match brilliantly                                                                articles, and you can subscribe to the FREE
  with a range of food-friendly wines.           Roberta Muir                                                 e-newsletter from the homepage.

                                                                                                   Sydney Seafood School JULY – OCTOBER 2010                           1
    F E A T U R E                                                                        S P E C I E S
    SalMon & TRoUT
    These natives of the northern                       Rainbow Trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss) is a sea-         BUyInG
    hemisphere, introduced to australia for             going native of streams, rivers and lakes draining    Saltwater-reared fish are sold whole, in cutlet,
    sports fishing in the 19th century, have            into the northern Pacific Ocean. Introduced           steak and fillet forms, fresh, smoked and
                                                        to Australia in the 1890s, it’s the main Trout        cured as gravlax; their bright orange roe is
    become significant aquaculture species
                                                        commercially farmed here. Raised in freshwater        also widely available. In whole fish look for
    and among the most popular fish in
                                                        it’s typically sold as a plate-sized fish (0.5-1kg)   lustrous skin with a slippery, mucilaginous
    restaurants and home kitchens.                      and is popular smoked, but when grown out in          coating, firm flesh, and a pleasant, fresh smell.
    The Salmonidae family, to which they belong,        sea cages it reaches a similar size to Atlantic       In cutlets, steaks and fillets, look for pink to
    is a very unusual one, often able to live in both   Salmon and is marketed as ocean Trout.                orange, firm, lustrous, moist flesh without
    fresh and salt water; while some (usually called    At this size, the flesh is very similar to that of    any brown markings or oozing water and with
    Trout) live in rivers and lakes, many (usually      Atlantic Salmon, though with a deeper colour.         a pleasant fresh smell; always buy sashimi-
    called Salmon) spend much of their lives at         It has a distinctive pink-orange patch on the gill    grade fish if it is to be served raw or rare.
    sea, returning to freshwater to spawn. All          cover, which becomes a broad stripe along the         Freshwater-reared Rainbow Trout are mainly
    are predators, feeding on small crustaceans         middle of the sides. Farmed fish is available year    sold whole, fresh or smoked.
    that contain pigments which turn their shells       round, while wild stocks, found in cool streams in
    red when cooked, ingesting these pigments           NSW, Victoria, Tasmania, SA and south-western
                                                                                                              Ensure whole fish is gilled, gutted and
    gives the Salmon’s flesh its pink-orange colour     WA, are only caught recreationally.
                                                                                                              cleaned thoroughly. Lay in a single layer on
    (replicated in farmed fish by mixing pigments                                                             a plate and cover with plastic wrap or place
    into the feed). The three main commercial                                                                 in an airtight container. Refrigerate for up to
    types of Salmonidae: Atlantic Salmon and Trout,                                                           3 days or freeze for up to 3 months below
    Pacific Salmon and Trout, and Charr/Char, have                                                            -18˚C. Fish that has been smoked or made
    been introduced to Australia.                                                                             into gravlax has only been lightly cured to
    atlantic Salmon (Salmo salar) is native to                                                                enhance flavour, not strongly enough to act
    European and North American rivers draining                                                               as a preservative, and so should not be
                                                        Rainbow Trout (Ocean Trout).
    into the north Atlantic. Australian aquaculture                                                           treated as a preserved food. Sashimi-grade
    began in the mid-1980s and Tasmania now             Brown Trout (Salmo trutta), sea-going natives         fish should be either eaten within 24 hours of
    produces around 32,000 tonnes/year. Available       of streams, rivers and lakes draining into the        purchase or cooked.
    year round, they’re usually harvested at 3-6kg.     northern Atlantic Ocean and closely-related to        cooKInG
    Farmed in saltwater they have silvery grey skin,    Atlantic Salmon, were introduced to Australia         Salmon and Trout are versatile; they can
    while those from fresh or brackish water are        in the 1860s. They are rarely farmed, but are         be served hot or cold, steamed, poached,
    golden to olive-brown.                              caught recreationally.                                pan-fried, stir-fried, baked, braised, grilled,
    chinook Salmon (Oncorhynchus tshawytscha),          Brook Trout (Salvelinus fontinalis) are actually      barbecued, smoked, cured or raw (sashimi).
    a native of the northern Pacific Ocean, were        a Charr, distinguished from Salmon and Trout          Saltwater-reared fish have a richer flavour
    introduced to Australia in the 1870s, though        by their brighter colouring and distinctive white     than smaller, freshwater-reared Trout. An
    wild stocks are now limited to a couple of          edges on their lower fins. Native to the Atlantic     attractive fish cooked whole, the flesh has
    Victorian lakes. They were introduced to New        coast of North America, they were introduced          good gelling characteristics and works well
    Zealand in the early 1900s and have been            to Tasmania in the early 1900s and are also           in mousseline, fish cakes, patés, terrines or
    farmed in sea cages there since the 1980s.          found in a few lakes and streams in NSW and           rillettes. The firm flesh of larger fish holds
    New Zealand is now the world’s major supplier       SA. Since 2005 they’ve been farmed in sea             together well in curries and casseroles and
    of this species, marketing it as King Salmon.       cages in south-western Tasmania and marketed          can be cubed for kebabs. It’s best served
    Harvested year round at about 5kg, they look        as Saltwater charr. Only available from               at least slightly rare or it can be dry, and is
    similar to Atlantic Salmon, with slightly paler     November–February, they have the reddest              often served with creamy or buttery sauces to
    skin and darker flesh, plus a higher oil content    flesh of all Australian-farmed Salmonids.             counter this tendency.
    and slightly softer texture.                                                                              * Australian Salmon (Arripis trutta) is not a
                                                                                                                member of the Salmonidae family, nor are
                                                                                                                Coral Trouts (which are really Rockcods).

    Chinook (King) Salmon.                              Brook Trout (Saltwater Charr).                        Atlantic Salmon in fish kettle.

2                     Sydney Seafood School JULY – OCTOBER 2010
                                                                                SMoKed TRoUT & cRacKed
                                                                                WheaT Salad
                                                                                This delicious salad, a take on Middle eastern tabbouli, doesn’t
                                                                                require any cooking, the cracked wheat soaks while you flake
                                                                                the already cooked Trout and chop the remaining ingredients. It’s
                                                                                perfect as a BBQ accompaniment or buffet dish and keeps well for
                                                                                a few days in the fridge.
Photo by Franz Scheurer.
                                                                                Serves 6 as an entrée or light lunch

R ec I P e S
                                                                                1 cup burghul (cracked wheat)
                                                                                2 hot-smoked Trout
                                                                                ½ bunch watercress, picked and lightly chopped
                                                                                1 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
                                                                                1 tablespoon finely chopped dill
Whole Poached SalMon                                                            ½ red onion, finely diced

WITh cUcUMBeR Salad                                                             8 green onions, finely chopped
                                                                                3 pieces preserved lemon, rind rinsed and finely diced
                                                                                1½ tablespoons lemon juice
Traditionally Salmon is poached in court bouillon, but english
                                                                                ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
food writer, Jane Grigson, recommends strong brine for
                                                                                Salt flakes, to taste
an even tastier result, while allowing the fish to cool in the
poaching liquid helps keep it moist.                                            Stir 2 cups of boiling water through the burghul, cover and leave for 30
                                                                                minutes or so.
Serves 4
                                                                                Meanwhile, peel the skin back from one side of the trout, scrape away any
1 x 2.5-3kg Atlantic Salmon, gilled and gutted                                  dark flesh and carefully lift pieces of the meat away from the bone, break into
525g coarse salt
                                                                                small chunks and set aside. Turn over and repeat with remaining side (see
6 litres water
Cucumber Salad with Caper & Dill Mayonnaise
                                                                                Combine watercress, parsley, dill, onions and preserved lemon in a bowl. Tip
250ml whole-egg mayonnaise
                                                                                burghul into a fine sieve, press well to remove excess moisture, then add to
½ cup finely chopped dill
                                                                                the bowl.
½ cup baby capers, rinsed and dried
6 Lebanese cucumbers, seeded, cut into half moons                               Whisk lemon juice, olive oil and salt together, pour over salad and toss
                                                                                thoroughly. Add Trout and toss gently to combine.
Dissolve salt in water and set aside.
                                                                                Notes: The dark meat along the centre of the Trout is fine to eat, but people
Rinse fish, especially the cavity to remove any blood, wipe with a              often prefer the look of just the pinky-orange flesh.
clean cloth to remove as much of the slime as possible. Place fish
on the rack in a fish kettle, cover with salt water and place lid on            Wine suggestion: Turn this dish in to a festive occasion by opening a
top. Place kettle over 2 burners on a medium heat and bring to                  bottle of hollick Sparkling Merlot 2006. The earthy flavours in this
the boil (this should take about 20 minutes). As soon as the water              wonderfully deep, rich, slightly sweet, sparkling red work a treat with the
begins to bubble, turn off heat, remove the lid and leave fish to cool          smokiness of the Trout.
completely in poaching liquid (1½-2 hours).

Meanwhile make Cucumber Salad: combine mayonnaise, dill                         Photo by Franz Scheurer.

and capers; stir half of this mixture through cucumbers and set
remainder aside.

When cool, remove fish from poaching liquid, place on a serving
platter and carefully remove skin, fins and fin bones, then gently
scrape off any dark flesh from just below the skin. Carefully turn over
and repeat on other side, leaving head and tail intact.

Spoon Cucumber Salad around fish and serve remaining mayonnaise
on the side.

Notes: It takes a bit of confidence to handle the whole cooked fish;
if you feel hesitant about turning it over, just peel back the skin from
one side for presentation.

Wine suggestion: Turkey Flat has been making great rosé for sometime,
but their 2009 is a little drier than previous vintages. A blend of Grenache,
Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, it has complexity and substance and is a
great match with this rich, classic dish.

                                                                                          Sydney Seafood School JULY – OCTOBER 2010                               3
    Go into a draw to
    WIn a BeefEater 4-burner
    Discovery plus BBQ
    We love talking to our customers, but as more and more people discover Sydney Seafood School we
    find that we’re struggling to keep up with the phone calls …. so we’ve developed a quick, convenient
    and secure online booking system which means you can book from any computer at any time of
    the day or night, whenever it’s convenient for you. It saves us time and resources too
    as we don’t have as many phone calls to answer or return and your booking goes
    straight into our computer without us having to enter the data. A WIN-WIN situation.

    So, to say thank you, every time you book online before 1 November 2010 you’ll go into a draw
    to win a BeefEater BBQ, valued at $1099. Designed for storage, as well as serious cooking, the
    Discovery Plus features an inbuilt cabinet to store BBQ tools, cookbooks or even your next drink,
    as well as rust-free porcelain enamel-coated cast-iron cooktops, stainless steel and alloy roasting
    hood with glass viewing window, large removable warming rack, reliable Quartz Start ignition (no
    batteries), powder coated metal pedestal trolley with stainless steel shelves and vanity skirt and
    heavy-duty lockable castor wheels. Learn more at

    So visit and book now.

    Terms and Conditions: 1.Sydney Seafood School Online Booking Promotion entry is open to all Sydney Seafood School customers. 2. To participate in this promotion book online by midnight on Sunday 31
    October 2010. 3. There is no entry fee involved in participating in this competition, but all participants must be 15 years of age or older. 4. To be eligible to win a BeefEater 4-burner Discovery BBQ valued at
    $1099, entrants must book a Sydney Seafood School cooking class online by midnight on Sunday 31 October 2010. 5. Prize will be drawn at Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009 at 11am 1
    November 2010. The winner will be notified by email on the same day. 6. Promoter is Sydney Fish Market, Bank Street Pyrmont, NSW 2009. Phn +61 2 9004 1100. ABN 24 064 254 306. 7. You must ensure
    that all care is taken when making the booking. A booking is not deemed to have been received unless an email confirming the booking has been sent to the customer. 8. Sydney Fish Market accepts no
    responsibility for any booking not received by Sydney Fish Market or delays in the delivery of bookings due to technical disruptions or for any reason. All online bookings are deemed to be received at the
    time of receipt NOT time of transmission by the entrant. 9. Sydney Fish Market reserves the right to keep all entry emails confidential. 10. Employees of Sydney Fish Market and their families are not eligible
    to enter. 11. The prize is not transferable or redeemable for cash. Authorised under NSW Permit No LTPS/10/04327.

                                                                             Astaxanthin’s colour isn’t obvious in live or                             tell your fishmonger how you plan to cook
                                                                             raw shellfish because it’s bound with a protein                           it and ask them to suggest a suitable
                                                                             that usually creates a blue-green colour.                                 substitute.
                                                                             Astaxanthin is heat-stable and the protein
                                                                                                                                                       how can I tell when a bivalve is cooked?
                                                                             isn’t, so when heat is applied the protein is
    ANSWERS TO                                                               destroyed, releasing the pigment and giving
                                                                                                                                                       Bivalves (shellfish with a double hinged shell,

    FREQUENTLY ASkED                                                         the typical red colour of cooked shellfish.
                                                                                                                                                       such as Vongole, Mussels and Pipis) are
                                                                                                                                                       among the quickest and easiest seafood to
    QUESTIONS                                                                lots of recipes ask for ‘firm white-                                      cook, as they tell you when they’re ready …
                                                                             fleshed fish’. What fish should I use?                                    by opening. Before cooking them, ensure
    check the faQ pages in the fIShline
                                                                             Ling, Blue-eye Trevalla, Coral Trout,                                     each shell is firmly closed, or closes when
    section of
                                                                             Emperors and Mahi Mahi are just some fish                                 gently tapped (discard any that don’t), then
    and if you can’t find the answer
                                                                             with firm, white flesh. Firm, white-fleshed                               add them to a hot pan over a high heat, with
    there, email your question to
                                                                             fish are a popular choice for many recipes                                or without a little oil, wine or other flavourings,
                                                                             as their flavour isn’t as distinctive as pink or                          and cover them for a minute or two, giving
    Why do crustaceans turn red when                                         red-fleshed fish, like Salmon and Tuna, and                               the pan a good shake occasionally. As soon
    they’re cooked?                                                          their firm texture means they hold together                               as you hear them start to pop open, remove
    Prawns, Crabs, Rocklobsters, and other                                   well in all sorts of preparations. With so                                the lid and, one by one as they open, transfer
    shellfish turn red when they’re cooked                                   many species of fish in the ocean, many                                   them to a bowl. If a few stubborn ones
    because their shells contain a carotenoid                                can be substituted for one another, which is                              remain, cover again for a minute or two. Any
    pigment called astaxanthin. The best known                               good news for the cook. If a recipe calls for                             that still remain closed can be prised open
    carotenoid pigment is carotene, which                                    a particular species which is unavailable, or                             over the sink and checked – if they smell
    gives carrots their bright orange colour.                                too expensive, on the day you’re shopping,                                good, they will be; if in doubt, discard them.

4                 Sydney Seafood School JULY – OCTOBER 2010
claSSIc dISh                                                                        lInGUIne aI fRUTTI dI MaRe

                                                                                    Serves 6 as an entrée

                                                                                    500g linguine
                                                                                    ½ cup extra virgin olive oil

                                                                                    1 red onion, finely diced
                                                                                    2 cloves garlic, crushed
                                                                                    Salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
                                                                                    500g Blue Mussels, scrubbed and debearded
                                                                                    500g Vongole (see notes)
“Spaghetti marinara” sounds so maritime we instantly think of                       ½ cup dry white wine

pasta with seafood; traditionally however that is not the case.                     400g medium green Prawns, peeled, deveined and cut into bite-sized chunks
                                                                                    400g Squid, cleaned and cut into strips
In naples, the home of marinara sauce, “marinara” refers to
                                                                                    ¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
the mariners (or sailors) for whom the sauce was made.
                                                                                    Toasted Seasoned Breadcrumbs
                                                                                    1½ tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
                                                                                    ½ cup fresh breadcrumbs (see notes)
                                                                                    1½ tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
                                                                                    ½ lemon, zest grated

                                                                                    Make Toasted Seasoned Breadcrumbs: heat olive oil in a small frying
                                                                                    pan, add breadcrumbs and stir over a medium heat for 3-5 minutes,
                                                                                    until crisp and golden. Set aside to cool then stir through parsley and
                                                                                    lemon zest.

                                                                                    Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add pasta, stir well and
                                                                                    continue boiling, stirring occasionally, until it is al dente.

                                                                                    Meanwhile, heat half the olive oil in a frying pan, add onion, garlic, salt and
                                                                                    pepper and cook over a medium heat until onion softens. Increase heat and
                                                                                    add Mussels, Vongole and wine. Stir and cover for a minute or 2, until shells
                                                                                    start to open. Remove shells to a bowl as soon as they open, discarding
                                                                                    any that do not open. Pour cooking liquid into a bowl. When cool enough to
                                                                                    handle, remove meat from most of the shells, leaving a few in the shell for
                                                                                    garnish; add Vongole and Mussels to the bowl of cooking liquid.
Photo by Franz Scheurer.
                                                                                    Return pan to a medium heat, add remaining oil and, when hot, add
                                                                                    Prawns and cook, stirring occasionally, for 1 minute. Add Squid and
So it’s literally “sailors’ sauce” and is made very simply with tomato, garlic      cook, stirring, for a further 30 seconds. Return Mussels, Vongole
and fresh herbs (traditionally oregano or parsley). It was made by the              and cooking liquid to the pan. Cover and remove from heat until pasta
sailor’s wives for their husbands when they returned after many months at           is cooked.
sea – and the last thing they probably wanted to eat was seafood.
                                                                                    Drain cooked pasta. Return frying pan to the heat, add pasta and
Of course seafood sauces are made to accompany pasta all over the                   parsley to the seafood and toss over a medium heat for a couple of
Italian coast, using whatever seafood is available. They are known by               minutes to mix well and until most of the liquid has been absorbed.
many different regional names such as Liguria’s “spaghetti allo scoglio”,
                                                                                    Serve sprinkled with toasted breadcrumbs.
literally “reef-style spaghetti” as the species used are those found along
the rocky coastline; “alla pescatore” (fisherman-style) is another popular          Note: Vongole are usually sold ‘purged’ to remove sand and grit, if

name. The more general Italian name for seafood sauce however is the                they haven’t been purged, place them in a large bowl of cool water for
                                                                                    several hours, or overnight, at room temperature (if you refrigerate
rather poetic “ai frutti di mare”, literally “with fruits of the sea”. It’s often
                                                                                    them they’ll close up and won’t ‘spit out’ the sand). To make fresh
made without tomatoes, and tends to contain shellfish, octopus or squid
                                                                                    breadcrumbs, pulse day-old bread in a food processor until finely
more often than finfish.
                                                                                    crumbed. It’s a great way to use up stale bread and you can keep them
Pizza Marinara is one of the two classic pizza flavours that now have DOC           in the freezer to use whenever breadcrumbs are required.
(protected designation of origin) status within the EU; and again it doesn’t
                                                                                    Wine suggestion: This dish calls for a wine with bold flavours that’s still
contain seafood, just the same ingredients as the classic marinara sauce:
                                                                                    subtle enough not to overshadow the seafood, and d’arenberg’s ‘The
tomato, oregano and garlic.
                                                                                    hermit crab’ 2008 is perfect. A blend of Viognier and Marsanne, it’s
learn more great Italian recipes with lucio Galletto on 9 august                    tight yet lively, with balanced weight and acidity. Lovely stone fruit and
& Giovanni Pilu on 30 august. Visit                     citrus flavours marry with more exotic ginger undertones and it finishes
or call 9004 1111 to book.                                                          long and dry.

                                                                                             Sydney Seafood School JULY – OCTOBER 2010                                5
    dIeTMaR SaWyeRe                                                                                     SnaPPeR en
                                                                                                        PaPIlloTe WITh
    FROM AD LIB BISTRO &                                                                                SPaGheTTInI

                                                                                                        Serves 6

                                                                                                        120g spaghettini
                                                                                                        2 teaspoons chilli oil
    Swiss-born dietmar Sawyere began his                                                                Salt flakes and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
    cooking life, working alongside his chef                                                            100g shiitake, sliced
    father on weekends. at 16 he left for                                                               60g rocket leaves
    london and a job at The Savoy hotel,                                                                6 x 120g baby snapper fillets, skin on
    and cut his culinary teeth in the kitchens                                                          20g enoki, trimmed to 4cm lengths
    of big hotels, working for hyatt, and                                                               1 lemon, juiced
    later Regent, in new Zealand, asia and                                                              1 long red chilli, sliced
    australia, where, as executive Sous chef                                                            120g garlic butter (see notes)

    at Regent of Sydney, he helped take                                                                 6 lemon wedges
                                                                                                        6 sprigs chervil
    Kables Restaurant to a 3-hat rating in
    the 1987 Sydney Morning Herald Good                                                                 Preheat oven to 220˚C.
    Food Guide.
                                                                                                        Bring a pot of salted water to the boil, add spaghettini
    In 1993, ready for a place of his own, he                                                           and boil until almost cooked but still slightly firm. Drain
    opened Level Forty One on the top of Chifley                                                        and toss with chilli oil, salt and pepper.
    Plaza, which he closed this year after 17
                                                                                                        Cut 6 large, heart-shaped pieces of baking paper
    years. During this time he also ran the
                                                                                                        and place on the bench.
    modern French Brasserie Cassis, also in
    Chifley Plaza; Five City Road in Auckland;                                                          Divide spaghettini between the 6 pieces of paper,
    and consulted to Singapore Airlines                                                                 placing it on one half of the paper. Place shiitakes and
    alongside Michelin-starred chefs George         peppered oxtail raviolo with smoked veloute.        rocket leaves on top of the pasta, sprinkle with salt
    Blanc and Gordon Ramsay.                        Of course, there’s also beautifully cooked          and pepper. Place a fillet of fish, skin side up, on top,
                                                    meat and clever vegetarian dishes to ensure         sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top with enoki, chilli and
    By 2007, not surprisingly, he was ready
                                                    everyone’s happy.                                   a little lemon juice, then a slice of garlic butter.
    for a change of pace and so, with wife
    Nicole, restored and reopened the iconic        Although life on the river is a lovely change,      Fold the other side of the paper over and, starting
    Berowra Waters Inn, a restaurant he’d           Sawyere’s not one to sit still for long and         at the wide end, fold the edges of the parcel over to
    admired since dining there on his first trip    in May this year, with Forty One’s closure          seal it tightly closed. Bake in oven for 10 minutes.
    to Sydney in 1985. A trip to the Inn is a       imminent, he opened the more casual Ad Lib
                                                    Bistro in Pymble. A bright modern version of        Serve in the unopened bag with a wedge of lemon
    magical experience; without road access,
    apart from the lucky few who arrive by          a classic Parisian neighbourhood bistro, with       and sprig of chervil on the side.
    seaplane or private boat, guests are met        long banquettes, bentwood chairs and paper-         Notes: To make garlic butter, beat 2 cloves of
    at the jetty by the restaurant’s punt for the   over-cloth tables, it’s a chance for Sawyere to     crushed garlic into 120g salted butter, roll into a log
    five-minute cruise up the Hawkesbury River.     return to the classics of his childhood. There’s    and refrigerate until needed.
    The Glenn Murcutt-designed, sandstone,          sugar-cured salmon with toasted brioche,
    wood and corrugated iron building blends        steak tartare and French onion soup, and a          Wine suggestion: This recipe asks for something a
    perfectly into its bushland surrounds           simply delicious seafood platter for two. And       little different, and logan’s 2009 Moscato answers
    and floor to ceiling glass louvres ensure       in true bistro-style, Ad Lib is open continuously   the call. Dark gold with a copper tinge and aromas
    great views of the peaceful river for every     from 10am-10pm so guests can drop in for            of passionfruit and pink grapefruit, it tingles on the
    table. The Mediterranean-inspired menu          a glass of wine and a snack, or tuck into a         tongue and surprises with lychee, red apple and lime
    showcases local produce and guests select       hearty 3-course dinner.                             flavours.
    from 16 small dishes to create their own        Berowra Waters Inn:
    four to six-course degustation. Sawyere’s       Berowra Waters, 9456 1027
    light touch with seafood is obvious in his
    signature chilled vichyssoise with oscietra
                                                    ad lib Bistro:
    and salmon caviars and beignets of Sydney
                                                    1047 Pacific hwy, Pymble, 9988 0120
    rock oysters. Having spent many years
    learning the rules, he’s also happy to bend
    them with interesting combinations of           See dietmar at Sydney Seafood
    flavours and textures in dishes such as slow-   School on 7 September.
    cooked ocean trout, mud crab and kalamata       Visit
    olive fried rice or steamed yabbies and         or call 9004 1111 to book.

6                   Sydney Seafood School JULY – OCTOBER 2010
cooKInG STyle
originally a method of preserving food in a salty pickle (the word comes from
the latin ‘marina’, meaning ‘of the sea’), marinating is now primarily used to add
flavour, though it can also tenderise and add moisture.

Seafood can Be:

•	 marinated raw and then cooked (this is most common);

•	 steeped in a high-acid marinade for a relatively long time, so that the acid denatures the
  protein in a similar way to heat, then eaten without further cooking;

•	 cooked first, then steeped in a marinade for added flavour, and eaten cold.

The ingredients of a marinade are limited only by your imagination, but they typically include
acid, oil and flavourings. Some popular marinade ingredients are:

•	 acid: wine, brandy, vinegar, lemon or lime juice, verjuice, yoghurt;

•	 oil: olive oil, grapeseed oil, ricebran oil or other neutral vegetable oil;

•	 flavourings: herbs (bay leaves, dill, parsley, oregano, thyme), spices (chilli, pepper, star           Photo by Franz Scheurer.

  anise, cumin), onion and garlic.

Marinated seafood eaten without further cooking is popular in Central and South America                   ceVIche
(see ceviche recipe at right). A similar dish, often with the addition of coconut cream, is               Serves 8 as an entrée
known by various names throughout the Pacific Islands, including Hawaiian poke, Fijian                    600g sashimi-grade snapper fillets, pin-boned
kokoda and Tahitian poisson cru. Filipino kinilaw is raw fish marinated briefly in vinegar or             ½ cup strained lime juice
                                                                                                          1 medium-sized red chilli, finely chopped
lime juice, so that it keeps some translucence, then mixed with onion, garlic and ginger and
                                                                                                          ½ yellow capsicum, seeded, finely diced
sometimes chilli, sour fruit such as green mango, and/or coconut milk.                                    1 red onion, finely diced
                                                                                                          6 green onions, sliced
Marinating cooked fish is an ancient technique dating back to Roman times. Across Europe,                 2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander
often small, oily fish are flour-coated, fried, then steeped in a hot, flavoured vinegar, left for        2 firm ripe tomatoes, seeded and diced
                                                                                                          1 ripe avocado, diced
several days (or longer) and typically eaten cold as an entrée or snack. In Spain, Portugal
                                                                                                          Salt flakes, to taste
and southern France it’s called escabeche, in Venice caramelised onions add sweetness to                  ½ iceberg lettuce, shredded
sardines en soar, and versions also exist in Turkey, Eastern Europe and North Africa.
                                                                                                          Discard any dark flesh from the fish and cut into a
                                                                                                          large dice.
TIPS foR MaRInaTInG Seafood:
                                                                                                          Marinate fish, refrigerated, in lime juice for 8 hours,
•	 use a non-reactive container such as glass, porcelain, glazed or enamelled dishes                      stirring every couple of hours to ensure all pieces
•	 only marinate seafood for about 20 minutes unless you want the acid to start to ‘cook’                 spend time submerged in the juice.

  the fish                                                                                                Drain fish and combine with chilli, capsicum, onions,
                                                                                                          coriander, tomato, and avocado and chill for 30 minutes.
•	 if seafood isn’t completely immersed in the marinade, turn it occasionally to ensure even
                                                                                                          Place lettuce in the bottom of a serving bowl or martini
                                                                                                          glass, top with ceviche, sprinkle with salt and serve.
•	 drain seafood well before cooking, if pan-frying or barbecuing, pat dry to ensure it
                                                                                                          Wine Suggestion: This dish needs a fragrant, spicy,
  browns well                                                                                             yet dry white wine, and Verdun Park Wines ‘lyla’
•	 to avoid cross-contamination, don’t add raw marinade back onto cooked seafood                          Sauvignon Blanc 2009 from the Adelaide Hills
                                                                                                          delivers the goods. Steely, yet spicy, it stands up to the
•	 boil leftover marinade to make a sauce for cooked seafood
                                                                                                          acid in the ceviche.
•	 firmer seafood, such as octopus, squid and abalone, can be braised in their marinade
                                                                                                          learn some delicious seafood marinades at our
•	 if serving marinated seafood without any further cooking (as in ceviche) always use                    evening Barbecuing classes on 26 august and
  sashimi-grade seafood                                                                                   15 october. Visit
                                                                                                          or call 9004 1111 to book.

                                                                                               Sydney Seafood School JULY – OCTOBER 2010                               7
    BaBy ocToPUS BRaISed
    In Red WIne                                                                                                                  BooK
    Baby octopus are very reasonably priced,
    and a good fishmonger will clean them for
    you. To clean them yourself, slit between the                                                                                The Real Food Companion
    head and legs and pull out anything that looks
                                                                                                                                 by Matthew evans
    unappetising. I reckon there are only two
    cooking times for octopus: 40 seconds or 40                                                                                  We followed his
    minutes, and, while I love char-grilled octopus,                                                                             weekly eating
    this slow-cooked version is perfect for winter.                                                                              adventures as
                                                                                                                                 The Sydney
    Serves 4 as an entrée
                                                                                                                                 Morning Herald’s
    1 tablespoon olive oil                                                                                                       leading restaurant
    1 small onion, grated                                                                                                        critic and more
    1 clove garlic, crushed                                                                                                      recently watched
    500g baby Octopus, cleaned                                                                                                   him grapple with
    250ml red wine                                                                                                               his critters as SBS’s Gourmet Farmer, but
    200g canned Italian tomatoes, pureed roughly                                                                                 chef and food writer Matthew Evans is most
    Freshly ground black pepper, to taste                                                                                        himself in his latest book. This hefty tome,
    Heat the oil in a small saucepan and fry the onion and garlic for 5-10 minutes, until they start                             written in Evans chatty irreverent style, is
    to colour. Add the Octopus and continue frying for about 3 minutes, taking care not to darken                                based on the philosophy of knowing the
    the onion mix too much. Stir in the wine and boil rapidly for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and                                source of our food, partly because it’s good
    lots of pepper, reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 40-45 minutes until tender.                               for the environment and healthy for us, but
    Transfer to a shallow frying pan and boil to reduce the sauce to a thickish consistency, then                                mostly because it just tastes good. He admits
    serve with char-grilled bread drizzled with olive oil.                                                                       there are times when we’re too tired, broke or
                                                                                                                                 busy not to take short cuts, but reasons that
    Wine Suggestion: This is one of those rare seafood dishes where a red wine matches
                                                                                                                                 if we ‘do the right thing most of the time’ then
    perfectly. cockfigher’s Ghost Premium Reserve Tasmanian Pinot noir 2007 has a lot
                                                                                                                                 the producers, provedores, cooks and fishers
    of earthy flavours to augment the deep, slow-cooked flavour of the Octopus perfectly – better
                                                                                                                                 who provide great food may thrive … and the
    still if you also use it to braise the Octopus in.
                                                                                                                                 more there are of them, the easier it is for us
    Recipe from The Real Food Companion. Photo by Alan Benson                                                                    to access that food. Each chapter opens with
                                                                                                                                 the story of one such Australian producer who
                                                                                                                                 Evans has met in his travels. There’s also a
    fRee SUBScRIPTIon To fIShlIne neWS                                                                                           wealth of general information for novice cook
                                                                                                                                 and gourmet alike, whether it’s how to choose
    If you’d like to receive a copy of FISHline News and the Sydney Seafood School program
                                                                                                                                 and store all sorts of vegetables or the
    of classes 3 times a year, please email your details to
                                                                                                                                 different gluten contents (and uses) of various
    A full program of classes and FISHline recipes, storage tips and species information are
                                                                                                                                 types of flour. The proof of the pudding is in
    also available at                                                                               the eating however, and Evans simple recipes
                                                                                                                                 deliver great flavour, from homemade yoghurt
                                                                                                                                 and ricotta to raspberry sour milk cake in
    T o c o n Ta c T S y d n e y f I S h M a R K e T:                                                                            the dairy chapter; taxi driver’s lamb curry to
    (ABN 24 064 254 306)                                                                                                         hearty Irish stew in the meat chapter; and
    call           Reception                +61 2 9004 1100                                                                      creamy smoked Trout & Blue-eye Trevalla pie
                   FISHline                 +61 2 9004 1122                                                                      with breadcrumb crust or sour yellow curry
                   Seafood School           +61 2 9004 1111                                                                      of Prawns in the seafood chapter. Whether
                                                                                                                                 you’re after an interesting read, a reference
                                                                                                                                 for all sorts of need-to-know food info, or just
    WRITe          Locked Bag 247, Pyrmont NSW 2009, Australia
                                                                                                                                 delicious recipes … The Real Food Companion
    VISIT          Cnr Bank St and Pyrmont Bridge Rd, Pyrmont                                                                    delivers the goods.
                                                                                                                                 RRP $89.95 (Murdoch)
    Sydney Fish Market retailers are open every day except Christmas Day                                                         ISBN 9781741962703
    disclaimer: The information in this newsletter is provided in good faith. While Sydney Fish Market Pty Ltd makes
    reasonable efforts to ensure information in this newsletter is up to date and accurate, neither Sydney Fish Market Pty       Matthew will present his favourite seafood
    Ltd nor any of its related bodies corporate (as defined in section 50 of Corporations Law) makes any representation or       recipes from his new book on 4 august.
    gives any warranty as to the currency, accuracy, reliability or completeness of any information in this newsletter. To the
    extent permitted by law, Sydney Fish Market Pty Ltd accepts no responsibility or liability for any loss, damage or injury
                                                                                                                                 Visit or
    suffered by the user consequent upon, or incidental to, the information in this newsletter.                                  call 9004 1111 to book.

8                           Sydney Seafood School JULY – OCTOBER 2010

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