Acne strategies by Hepingting


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									    Do you suffering on acne? Remove your troubles immediately

                                          ACNE Strategies:
                                         By Andrew Scoular.

What is acne?
Acne is a disease of the sebaceous (oil producing) hair follicle and can appear on the face, chest and
back. Acne lesions are generally classified as inflammatory. Oily skin with large pores is not necessarily
acneic skin. Acne can affect people with large pores as well as those with small pores, those with oily
skin, and those with combination skin. The old style thought process in treating acne was to strip all the
oil off the skin with very harsh cleansers and alcohol based toners, and then to try and kill every bacteria
(good and bad) that resides on your skin. This theory is no longer supported by modern estheticians
(even though the marketing by large consumer companies still tries to scare consumers into their old
style products). Acne affects the dermal layer of the skin (where your collagen and elastin fibres are, as
well as hyaluronic acid and blood vessels).

Please note that a few blemishes here and there are not classified as acne. This is classified as blocked
pores and can be dealt with a lot more easily.

How does one get acne?
Genetically, acne sufferers are pre-disposed to having stickier sebum (natural oil from your sebaceous
glands). They inherit an androgen hormone receptor that receives the testosterone hormone (male and
female) and this hormone is then turned into dihydro-testosterone by a little enzyme called 5-alpha-
reductase. The net result is that their sebum becomes more sticky than normal. This results in a greatly
increased potential for pores to get blocked up. On top of that, dead skin cells that should naturally
exfoliate off the skin, tend to stick to the sticky sebum and therefore cause even greater blockages in the

The blocked pore creates a wonderful, warm, dark environment for bacteria like p.acne and s.epidermidis
to set up home and have lots of children. To feed their large families, these bacteria secrete an enzyme
called lipase. This enzyme will help them break down the fat in your sebum and thus provide great
nourishment for the bacterial families.

The presence of bacterial ‘terrorists’ and the lipase they secrete triggers the immune system. It floods
the area with oxygen in order to kill the bacteria. In so doing the immune system also kills off some of
your healthy collagen and elastin cells in the vicinity (a kind of collateral damage in the war on terrorist
bacteria  ). Any immune system activity in your body will create inflammation – hence the redness and
pain associated with acne lesions. All this immune system activity and inflammation means that severe
acne, when not treated properly, will result in scaring and pitting of the skin. Weak pore walls will result
in blocked sebum and bacteria bursting into surrounding tissue so creating acne cysts.

What   are the 8 pathogenic factors of acne?
  1.   Hormones (testosterone and progesterone) – and your genetic androgen receptors.
  2.   Excessive oil (sebum) production in your sebaceous glands.
  3.   Enzymes in your body that make your natural oil (sebum) sticky.
  4.   Blocked pores (due to sticky sebum and hyper-keratinization).
  5.   Hyper-keratinization – the rapid growth of skin cells that have to exfoliate, and that add to the
       blocked pore scenario.

                      415.699.8494.               Page 1 of 3

   Do you suffering on acne? Remove your troubles immediately
   Do you suffering on acne? Remove your troubles immediately
   6. Microbes (bacteria).
   7. Immune system and inflammation (too much activity causes scaring and pitting).
   8. Weak pore walls (lead to burst sebaceous glands and subsequent acne cysts).

What can be done about all these acne generating factors?

   •   Genetics and Hormones – not much can be done about the genes you inherited. That means we
       have to focus on controlling all the results of your genetic inheritance…. Adult women often
       experience hormonal acne in the area of the mouth and chin during their menstrual period. Ask
       your doctor about what type of birth control pill will help control this.
   •   Reduce ‘sticky-ness’ of sebum by inhibiting the effects of the 5-alpha-reductase enzyme with
       ingredients like Zinc PCA, Lichochalcone (from Chinese Licorice) and Butyl Avocadate (from
   •   Sebum regulators – these will help regulate the fluidity and ability of the sebaceous glands to
       produce oil (remember flow is good – blockage is bad). Proper cleansing with a gentle cleanser
       twice per day is the first critical step. Other ingredients that help are Sulfur, Salicylic Acid,
       Farnesol (also called Farnesyl Acetate), and vitamin A products like Retinol, and the doctor
       prescribed intensive vitamin A products like Accutane, Retin-A/Renova/Differin etc. Remember –
       vitamin A is fat soluble and excess is stored in the body (and affects the liver) so high dose
       products must be used judiciously.
   •   Sebum absorbers – these will help regulate the amount of oil on the skin. Ingredients that help
       this are Zinc oxide, Clays in the form of kaolin and bentonite, Cornstarch, and Nylon-12. The
       nylon-12 compound sits on the skin, it does not penetrate, and it absorbs 400x it’s own weight in
       oil for up to 8 hours and keeps the skin looking matte rather than ‘oil-slick’ shiny.
   •   Exfoliation of dead skin cells – prevent the build-up of dead skin cells and the further blocking
       of the pores by using a good strength and low pH Salicylic Acid (also called Betaine Salicylate or
       Willowbark extract). This ingredient is fat soluble so it will make sure exfoliation happens in very
       oily conditions and even inside the pore. Other exfoliants like Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid and Azelaic
       Acid work well in combination with Salicylic Acid. Retinol and prescription strength vitamin A
       based Retin-A/Renova/Differin will also increase the effective exfoliation of your skin. Please note
       that the stronger the exfoliant, the dryer your skin will appear. Strong vitamin A’s may also
       further irritate an inflamed acne skin so in some cases they are not an ideal solution.
   •   Control bacteria activity on the skin without completely destroying the natural balance
       of the skin. Coneflower (Echinacea), Lavender, Thyme, Oregano and Sage are great extracts, as
       well as soluble Beta Glucans. Australian standard Tea Tree, Terpineol, and New Zealand Tea Tree
       are also very good ingredients. The old style products of heavy alcohol/ethanol levels are too
       damaging for the skin even though they do a good job of controlling bacteria. Prescription
       antibiotics are also useful in this regard – though the extensive use of antibiotics is a danger unto
   •   Soothe the skin to reduce the damaging effects of inflammation. This means use a gentle
       cleanser – not a harsh Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) based cleanser with infusions of glycolic acid
       or similar acidic ingredients. Use ingredients like soluble Beta Glucans (they stimulate the rapid
       repair of the skin), Aloe vera gel, Sea Whip (from a marine plant), Lichochalcone (from Chinese
       Licorice), as well as green, white and red teas. Yes, hydrocortisone is an anti-inflammatory but it
       is not a good idea if your intention is not to weaken the skin and result in faster skin aging….
   •   Rebuild the strength of the skin to reduce potential for scaring and pitting using
       ingredients like Glycosaminoglycans, Hyaluronic Acid/Sodium Hyaluronate, Peptides like Matrixyl
       and Oligopeptides (glyco-proteins from yeast), as well as passion flower + black currant + grape
       leaf extracts. Retinols are also important ingredients in this regard – though not every skin can
       tolerate strong retinols.
   •   Protect the skin from the sun (UVA and UVB). Inflamed skin will often darken – and many
       acne sufferers are concerned about dark brown spots where acne lesions used to be. This post
       inflammatory hyperpigmentation will often require stronger peels to reduce and normalize
       discolouration. Zinc and Titanium based sunscreens are the best because they are non irritating
       and more powerful as UV reflectors.

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   Do you suffering on acne? Remove your troubles immediately
    Do you suffering on acne? Remove your troubles immediately
What should you avoid?
  • Strong cleansers based on sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) -even if they say it comes from coconuts,
     laureth sulfates, sarconates, succinates, taurates….and many more that are molecular structures
     derived from the sodium lauryl sulfate structure. The cleansers that contain glycolic acid or
     salicylic acid are always in a SLS-type base. They are drying, irritating and too harsh for inflamed
     acneic skin.
  • Solvent alcohols (SD alcohol, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol etc). They are exceptionally drying and
  • Organic chemical sunscreens like Benzophenones, Octinoxate, Avobenzone (aka Parsol 1789)
     because they are very irritating to an already inflamed acneic skin.
  • Benzoyl Peroxide over 5% because it is drying, irritating and will have an impact on future
     aging elements like free radicals. Free radicals are primarily unstable oxygen molecules and they
     damage cell walls and cell DNA. Your body experiences 10 000 free radical hits per cell per day
     just by existing on this planet where we are bombarded by UV rays from the sun and surrounded
     by oxidizing oxygen (hard to believe but it is true!). Anything with peroxide will break down into
     water and oxygen (just a common law of chemistry). Stay away from oxygen treatments – unless
     the aging of your skin is not an issue. Leave your immune system to battle the bacterial invasion
     with self-induced oxygen free radicals rather than adding to the potential oxygen damage of your
     skin with products containing oxygen or peroxides.
  • Watch out for products (including hair products) that have Lanolin, Cocoa Butter, Flax oil,
     Isopropyl Myristate (and other Isopropyl esters), Myristyl Myristate (and other Myristyl esters),
     Olive oil (non hydrogenated), Peach kernel oil, Coconut oil, Peanut oil, Sesame oil, Castor oil, Corn
     oil and Crisco…amoungst many others. Please note that hydrogenated olive oil in the form of
     Squalane is OK – but unhydrogenated Squalene is not! A little confusing eh?
  • Foods…..DAIRY is a big one – lay off milk, cheese (even on pizzas), ice cream, yogurt. RED MEAT
     is next – eat more chicken. IODIDES (salt) found in dairy products as well as raw fish – so lay off
     sushi. FAST FOODS/FRIED FOODS – fats and oils are BAD. Period! COMPLEX SUGARS as in candy,
     baked goods like danishes and donuts. Simple sugars in natural fresh fruits are OK. Eat lots of
     fresh vegetables.
  • STRESS – your cortisol hormone will wreak havoc on your acne. This acne is often found in adults
     and is referred to as stress acne. This is a tough one to control. Try yoga, meditation, other stress
     relieving activities.

Home Care Regimen – use the following products for Acne Control strategies:
  • Gentle cleanse. Dr Schwab Sensitive Skin Cleanser with Safflower seed oil, Aloe and Green Tea,
     can be used for all skin types, even for acneic skins. 6.8oz $30. Also available is YG Labs Ultra
     Gentle Cleanser with Yucca. 4.5oz $14.
  • Exfoliate. YG Labs Clear Skin Ultra Gel with glycolic acid, lactic acid, betaine salicylate, and Beta
     Glucans. 1.7 oz $40. For skin’s that can tolerate Retinol, Green Cream level 6 and 9, 10z bottles
     at $45 and $55 respectively.
  • Control sebum with a clay mask. Tu’el Purifying Mask. 4oz $60.
  • Strengthen the skin to prevent future scaring and pitting. Glycosaminoglycans and
     oligopeptides in aloCel Gel. 3.4oz $85. Adeeva’s Hyaluronic Serum Concentrate is also good. .5oz
  • Reduce skin dryness and defend against bacteria with a light moisturizing lotion and anti
     bacterial tea tree. This step is unnecessary on skin that is naturally very oily. YG Labs Soothe and
     Defend 1.7oz $40.
  • Protect the skin with a mineral based sunscreen. TIZO3 (just Titanium, Zinc and Silicone
     with a very slight tint to prevent one from looking ghostly white). It is matte, silky, and gorgeous.
     1.5oz $40.

Come and see us for a skin consultation and Controlling facial treatment. See treatment
details at

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   Do you suffering on acne? Remove your troubles immediately

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