Strubens II – Bouldering Guide by sdsdfqw21


									Strubens II – Bouldering Guide

From the N1 on the western side of Johannesburg take the 14th Avenue off ramp and proceed onto Hendrik
Potgieter. Take Hendrik Potgieter and pass the Hillfox centre on your left, cross over Jim Fouche, under a
flyover (Christiaan De Wet), passed Macro and Clearwater mall. Take the next robot left (the same direction
as for Strubens Valley climbing) onto Fredenharry. Take this road past a BP Garage and a small shopping
mall on your right. This road ends at a t-junction. Hang a right and proceed along the curving road past the
Strubens Valley parking (on your left). Just up the road there is a break in the houses, park in this area (not
obstructing the entrances to the houses) and walk up the hill

The above access is likely to be closed down in the near future as a house is being built blocking the access
point. Alternative access is as follows:

Drive up Christiaan De Wet from Hendrick Potgieter until you reach the first set of robots, turn right into
Wilgerood. Continue up this road for another 800 metres (approx.) and then turn first right into Topaz at a
robot. From here drive 200 metres (approx.) and turn first left into Malachite. Continue up the hill and left
around the flying saucer to park at the dead end.

Walk through the gate in the palisade fence and along the path for 10 minutes approximately until you reach
another path crossing over the first main col reached. Turn right and continue down hill for another 5
minutes until you see the top of the cliffs on the left. This access route is considerably less leg work than
the other approach.


Park on the side of the road and follow the white brick wall on the right (facing up hill). You find will find a
path that leads up the hill eventually the path splits and one path heads vertically up the hill. Take this path
and you will see some rock formations in the trees up the hill (there are other rock formations on the right
further up the hill).

Aspect and Rock Type:

The crag faces north and is the same rock type as Strubens Valley with the benefit of being less polished.
Due to the north facing element the crag can get quite hot around midday.
Main Face

The problems start from the small red face and are written up left to right fro Guy’s Arete.

1. Guy’s Arete                                                                                 Font 4 *
(FA – Guy Hubbard November 2004)
The clear arête to the left of Red Wall with the dodgy landing. The arête was not topped out due to the tree.

2. Red Wall                                                                                    Font 5 *
(FA – James Roberts November 2004)
Sit start with left hand on a good side pull and right hand on a crimp ledge. Move straight up to a good edge

3. Project                                                                                     Font ? **
(FA - ????????)
Sit start at the bottom of the rounded arête and then climb directly up high to the jugs. Decisions need to be
made over what blocks are in or out at the foot of the problem.

4. Sidewinder                                                                                  Font 6a+ ***
(FA – Guy Hubbard November 2004)
Crouch with left hand on the large side pull (rest of crack on left is off route) and move up into another side
pull for the left. Rockover through a poor sloper to an obvious jug and then traverse off left.
Picture – The above picture gives a clear view of the Squeeze Slab on the very left of shot. The layback edges of Lay it On can be
  seen in the dark area just right of Squeeze Slab. The problem Cracking Up is marked by the crack line that trends slightly right
                                              finishing around the large hanging block.

5. Squeeze Slab                                                                                             Font 5 *
(FA – James Roberts November 2003)
Sit start with left hand on a large easy pinch round the corner and right hand on a thin pinch. Bounce up to
a good sloper with your right hand and move up the rising edge to the obvious jug then jump off.

6. Lay it on                                                                                                Font 5 *
(FA – Guy Hubbard November 2004)
Sit start using the layaways and move up and left to a lay back edge to the same finishing jug as for the
Squeeze Slab.

7. Three more inches                                                                                        Font 6b+ *
(FA – Guy Hubbard November 2004)
Sit start in the same stance as for “Lay it on”. Make a long move through stemming to a crimp with your left
hand. Then move up to small crimps before the long move, as per the name, to the sloping feature high on
the route.
8. James’ Traverse                                                                                             Font 6c ***
(FA – James Roberts November 2004)
Sit start as for Lay It On and traverse right keeping low. From the two layaways cross directly into the start
holds of Cracking Up and a long move straight into a gaston for the right hand. Match the gaston and move

9. Cracking Up                                                                                                 Font 6a **
(FA – Ognjen Sijan November 2004)
In the centre of the face there is a diagonal sloping crack. Sit start at the foot of the crack with a deep crack
jug for your left. Move up the crack to a large undercling flake and make a long move to the final jug. Jump

Picture- In the above picture the climber is touching the holds of Cracking Up and half a metre right you can see the small crimps of
Gaston Garcon. Unbalanced starts right again of Gaston Garcon in a feint grey undercling. Sloppy Joes starts just left of the small
                                                   rock protruding from the ground.

10. Gaston Garçon                                                                                              Font 7a+ **
(FA – Guy Hubbard November 2004)
A eliminate between Cranking Up and Unbalanced. Sit start on the undercling and move directly up to the
following undercling directly above. Move with difficulty into a hand handed press/sprag. Form this position
enter an opposing gaston and pop (via a poor crimp) to the jug.

11. Unbalanced                                                                                                 Font 6c **
(FA – James Roberts November 2003)
Sit start in the obvious side pulls and move directly up with a right hand to a good jug. Using sidepulls and
gastons to gain the medium sized jug in an off balance manner.
12. Sloppy Joes                                                                                              Font 6c+ ***
(FA – Guy Hubbard November 2004)
Sit start as for Unbalance and cross over with left hand to the jug mentioned in the above description.
Adjust your feet and span out for the sloper on the edge. Edge up and slap for the side pull. Balance up
and stand for the finishing side pull jug. A good spot and mat is required to avoid becoming part of the
sharp rock behind. There is potential for a sit start directly below the problem but to date this has not been
done without the blocks to the right.

                  Picture – Guy Hubbard in the process of sending the devious Unbalanced (font 6c) at Strubens II.

13. Juicy Lucy                                Font 6b **
(FA – Neil Margetts November 2004)

Sit Start with left hand on a sloping jug and right
hand on a slightly cupped jug. Pull up into the
sidepulls and balance or lunge for the finish hold
(on the right of the first bolt).

Picture – Neil Margetts looking focused on his own Juicy
Lucy (font 6b). Incidentally the Neil bolted most of lines at
Strubens II and initially identified the area for development.
Boulders Area

The Boulders area is slightly down the hill and right (if you are facing up the hill). As note in the below
diagram there is further room for development up the hill at the higher boulders.

14. Oggi’s Arete                                                                              Font 5 ****
(FA – Ognjen Sijan November 2004)
Crouch start with both hands on a block. Make a long move directly up to a good sloping hold and then
again with your left to a similar sloping ledge. Take both hands onto the next sloping rail and make a long
move to the top. Top out. Advisable to have a pad and a good spotter below.

15. Fret Arete                                                                                Font 5 **
(FA – Neil Margetts November 2004)
Start on same start hold as Oggi’s Arete and move directly up to the first ledge and then proceed on
sidepulls onto the main wall. When holding the top edge make a long move over the top to gain the thank
God jugs. Top out.
16. Waxed                                   Font 6c+ **
(FA – James Roberts November 2004)

Sit start with left hand on a flat diagonal hold and
a small crimp for the right hand. Move up right to
a sidepull for the right and a long pull to a good
crimp (cunning footwork may help). Then
proceed up and left on crimps till the top. Top
out via a long reach over the top to a massive jug
line. The problem was named after the waxed
residue on the start footholds.

17. Sloping Moon                            Font 6a **
(FA – James Roberts November 2003)

Sit start with left hand on the side pull and right
hand in the undercling. Make a hard pull with
right hand to reach over the lip with left onto a
poor sloping crimp. Rockover and pop for a
positive and comfortable crimp. Mantle out.

Picture – The Picture to the right shows a good side profile
of Oggi’s Arete with Guy Hubbard demonstrating one of the
arete’s variations. The problem waxed starts two metres
right of the climber on small crimps.

18. Trailer Park Trash                                                                                         Font 6b+ **
(FA – James Roberts November 2003)
Sit start with both hands on the undercling and pressure up on the underclings till you can pop to the sharp
but positive crimps. Mantle out.

                 Picture – The above picture shows, through the tree, the start to Trailer Park Trash (font 6b+) and
                                       Sloping Moon (font 6a) at the far end of the boulder.
Lizard Boulders

19. Komodo                                                                                        Font 4 **
(FA- Neil Margetts October 2003)
A juggy but fun mission up the pyramid wall with an interesting top out.

20. Scaly Feet                                                                                    Font 4/5 **
(FA – Neil Margetts November 2004)
Slab round corner using the arête and balance your way to the top.

21. Project                                                                                       Font ??
(FA - ???????)
Climb the scrappy wall in the gap between the boulders.

22. Down Climb                                                                                    Font 4
(FA – Neil Margetts November 2004)

23. Geriatrics                                                                                    Font 3
(FA – Neil Margetts November 2004)
The easy but pleasant slab at the bottom of the boulders area.

Mini Wall:

24. Domino                                                                                        Font 5 **
(FA – Brendon Coleman November 2004)
An awkward sit start with right hand on a good side pull and left hand on a sloping flat hold. Balance gently
upwards until you can top out through the sloping top holds and the tree branches.

25. Brendon’s Problem                                                                             Font 4 *
(FA – Brendon Coleman November 2004)
Sit start with both hands on the flat block and push on upwards via positive holds. Top out.

                                                           26. Serrated                                 Font 4 **
                                                           (FA – Brendon Coleman November 2004)
                                                           Sit start on the large holds and rock up over the
                                                           edge on good holds.

                                                           27. Nerine’s Problem                         Font 4
                                                           (FA – Nerine Richards November 2004)
                                                           Sit start a metre and a half right of Serrated and
                                                           awkwardly move up the short problem.

                                                           28. Nerine’s Traverse                        Font 6a **
                                                           (FA - ????????)
                                                           Sitting start just right of the above problem on the
                                                           obvious low nose. Traverse left keeping hands
                                                           below 1.5 metres high.

                                                           Picture – Nerine Richards on the initial moves of the fun
                                                           problem Nerine’s Traverse (font 6a) on the mini wall at
                                                           Strubens II.

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