In the past most outboards were two strokes. End of season service was limited to maybe fogging the engine and leaving it in cold shed for the winter. When spring arrived two things happened, it ran or it didn't! For the most part two strokes don't seize as often as the new four strokes do because their internal parts are coated with gasoline/oil residue. Usually a storage related engine seizure for a two stroke outboard meant the end at worst and poor reliability and big repair bill at best. Just because a little air-borne humidity has gotten into your engine's cylinders causing the pistons to seize up, doesn't mean your luck has run out. Every year hundreds of thousands of outboards are found seized up at the dock, seized up in the drive way, and even seized up after winter storage at your local marina. Not because of wear and tear but because of poor storage conditions and high humidity. The worst thing you can do to your outboard is ask your local mechanic to fix it. If you are lucky the first attempted repair is just the beginning of a long term relationship between your mechanic and your wallet. Usually ending with the purchase of a new outboard. Science often really does sometimes invent new solutions for old problems. Things have changed! Now there is a liquid solution for outboards that have seized up during storage, it called Engine Release. Engine Release is a new releasing agent, the first of its kind, specially formulated to destroy corrosion, lubricate cylinder walls and free up seized pistons. If you can remove a spark plug, Engine Release is a simple way to get your seized outboard running without special tools or major engine work. Engine Release fills the gap between the piston and cylinder wall, migrates behind and around each piston ring. Engine Release then makes its' way from the top piston ring and groove to the lowest, through each ring gap. Excess Engine Release wets the piston skirt and cylinder bore making engine starting easy. Engine Release is a real do it your self product. It's guaranteed to save your outboard and here's how to do it using Engine release. Position the engine horizontally on a solid work bench or on the floor, propeller facing up. Put a few blocks under the prop gear case so that the engine cylinders are in a vertical position. To make this simple, the closer the engine's cylinders are to vertical, the better the results. When Engine Release is injected into the cylinder bore/bores it will flow freely around the engine's pistons, not leaving any dry areas. Remove engine cover and all spark plugs. If corroded or seized, a few drops of Engine Release on the plug's threads will make frozen plugs easy to remove. (Let it soak in for 15 to 20 minutes) Twice a day, morning and evening, using your Engine Release injector bottle, wet each cylinder with ? oz of Engine Release. Three or four days of this should do it, and then let the Engine Release soak in for a week. Remove the pull start mechanism on your motor. There are three bolts holding it. You should see the starter ratchet ring and crank nut. Before you crank your engine, cover the spark plug holes with a rag to keep Engine Release from blowing out of the holes. Keep your face away from this area. Do not use battery start for breaking the engine free Put a socket on the engine crank nut and break the engine loose with either an air or an electric powered impact wrench. Don't have one? Rent or borrow it if you have to! Best tool for the job! Hammer blows from the impact wrench set up vibrations in the engine that, with the help of Engine Release will dislodge oxide crystals from one another, freeing up the engine. Short bursts of the impact (1 or 2 seconds) duration are all that you need. ? Once the engine starts to turn STOP! ? Also if engine refuses to turn STOP! Engine may need more Engine Release and time to free up. If you don't have access to an impact wrench or don't want to use one, a socket and braker bar of your choice will do. Go for ratchet ring or crank nut. (We do not suggest this approach) ? Once the engine has started to turn you can now inject what is left of your Engine Release into your engine's cylinders to wet them and wash out the corrosion residue. ? Re-install your pull start. ? You can now crank the engine using either your pull start or battery start if so equipped. Do not use battery start for breaking engine free ? If everything seems to be nice and free, and your plugs have a good spark, re-install your spark plugs and engine cover. You can now consider test running your engine. It's a good time to give your engine a wash with warm water and detergent to remove all traces of Engine Release. Engine Release will damage paint finishes. V-style Two stroke Outboards V style Engines aren't anymore of a challenge than inline models. The only difference is the amount of Engine Release required to free them up. Procedures are the same otherwise. Half a can of Engine Release is required per cylinder as a minimum to reach the top of the piston with enough Engine Release to wet everything required. There is no other option because of the cylinder's angle in the engine block. Flood each cylinder with Engine Release. Let it soak in for a week, and then follow our step-by-step instructions until your Engine is freed up. Higher Horse Power engines that are on a boat can be leveled out if the boat is on a trailer by lowering the tongue jack on your trailer. Tilt your outboard up, work on one bank of cylinders at a time. Alternate between banks, Engine Release does not evaporate so you don't have to worry about your treatment drying out. Turn your steering so as to position the cylinders in a perfectly vertical position so that when Engine Release is injected into the cylinder bores it will flow evenly around the piston crowns. This technique can save you removing the engine from your boat. Results using Engine Release have been great! No major disassembly required, no new parts required, no professional mechanic required, and a big problem has been solved cheaply without dragging your boat and motor to the shop. What could be better! 35 years in the Heavy Equipment business. Started off as a welder Moved on to Mechanics helper Went on to construction as a sub-contractor doing welding on The Montreal Metro, James Bay Power Project, Many piling jobs in Montreal Proper as well as Marine work.