Seized - up Two Stroke Outboard Motor by aihaozhe2

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									In the past most outboards were two strokes. End of season service was limited to
maybe fogging the engine and leaving it in cold shed for the winter. When spring
arrived two things happened, it ran or it didn't! For the most part two strokes don't
seize as often as the new four strokes do because their internal parts are coated with
gasoline/oil residue.
Usually a storage related engine seizure for a two stroke outboard meant the end at
worst and poor reliability and big repair bill at best.
Just because a little air-borne humidity has gotten into your engine's cylinders causing
the pistons to seize up, doesn't mean your luck has run out.
Every year hundreds of thousands of outboards are found seized up at the dock, seized
up in the drive way, and even seized up after winter storage at your local marina. Not
because of wear and tear but because of poor storage conditions and high humidity.
The worst thing you can do to your outboard is ask your local mechanic to fix it. If
you are lucky the first attempted repair is just the beginning of a long term
relationship between your mechanic and your wallet. Usually ending with the
purchase of a new outboard.
Science often really does sometimes invent new solutions for old problems. Things
have changed! Now there is a liquid solution for outboards that have seized up during
storage, it called Engine Release.
Engine Release is a new releasing agent, the first of its kind, specially formulated to
destroy corrosion, lubricate cylinder walls and free up seized pistons. If you can
remove a spark plug, Engine Release is a simple way to get your seized outboard
running without special tools or major engine work.
Engine Release fills the gap between the piston and cylinder wall, migrates behind
and around each piston ring. Engine Release then makes its' way from the top piston
ring and groove to the lowest, through each ring gap. Excess Engine Release wets the
piston skirt and cylinder bore making engine starting easy.
Engine Release is a real do it your self product. It's guaranteed to save your outboard
and here's how to do it using Engine release.
Position the engine horizontally on a solid work bench or on the floor, propeller
facing up. Put a few blocks under the prop gear case so that the engine cylinders are in
a vertical position. To make this simple, the closer the engine's cylinders are to
vertical, the better the results. When Engine Release is injected into the cylinder
bore/bores it will flow freely around the engine's pistons, not leaving any dry areas.
Remove engine cover and all spark plugs. If corroded or seized, a few drops of
Engine Release on the plug's threads will make frozen plugs easy to remove. (Let it
soak in for 15 to 20 minutes)
Twice a day, morning and evening, using your Engine Release injector bottle, wet
each cylinder with ? oz of Engine Release. Three or four days of this should do it, and
then let the Engine Release soak in for a week.
Remove the pull start mechanism on your motor. There are three bolts holding it. You
should see the starter ratchet ring and crank nut.
Before you crank your engine, cover the spark plug holes with a rag to keep Engine
Release from blowing out of the holes. Keep your face away from this area. Do not
use battery start for breaking the engine free
Put a socket on the engine crank nut and break the engine loose with either an air or
an electric powered impact wrench. Don't have one? Rent or borrow it if you have to!
Best tool for the job!
Hammer blows from the impact wrench set up vibrations in the engine that, with the
help of Engine Release will dislodge oxide crystals from one another, freeing up the
engine. Short bursts of the impact (1 or 2 seconds) duration are all that you need.
? Once the engine starts to turn STOP!
? Also if engine refuses to turn STOP! Engine may need more Engine Release and
time to free up.
If you don't have access to an impact wrench or don't want to use one, a socket and
braker bar of your choice will do. Go for ratchet ring or crank nut. (We do not suggest
this approach)
? Once the engine has started to turn you can now inject what is left of your Engine
Release into your engine's cylinders to wet them and wash out the corrosion residue.
? Re-install your pull start.
? You can now crank the engine using either your pull start or battery start if so
equipped. Do not use battery start for breaking engine free
? If everything seems to be nice and free, and your plugs have a good spark,
re-install your spark plugs and engine cover. You can now consider test running your
engine.
It's a good time to give your engine a wash with warm water and detergent to remove
all traces of Engine Release. Engine Release will damage paint finishes.
V-style Two stroke Outboards
V style Engines aren't anymore of a challenge than inline models. The only difference
is the amount of Engine Release required to free them up. Procedures are the same
otherwise.
Half a can of Engine Release is required per cylinder as a minimum to reach the top
of the piston with enough Engine Release to wet everything required. There is no
other option because of the cylinder's angle in the engine block. Flood each cylinder
with Engine Release. Let it soak in for a week, and then follow our step-by-step
instructions until your Engine is freed up.
Higher Horse Power engines that are on a boat can be leveled out if the boat is on a
trailer by lowering the tongue jack on your trailer. Tilt your outboard up, work on one
bank of cylinders at a time. Alternate between banks, Engine Release does not
evaporate so you don't have to worry about your treatment drying out. Turn your
steering so as to position the cylinders in a perfectly vertical position so that when
Engine Release is injected into the cylinder bores it will flow evenly around the piston
crowns. This technique can save you removing the engine from your boat.
Results using Engine Release have been great! No major disassembly required, no
new parts required, no professional mechanic required, and a big problem has been
solved cheaply without dragging your boat and motor to the shop. What could be
better!
35 years in the Heavy Equipment business. Started off as a welder
Moved on to Mechanics helper
Went on to construction as a sub-contractor doing welding on The Montreal Metro,
James Bay Power Project, Many piling jobs in Montreal Proper as well as Marine
work.

								
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