Simplistic Haircuts 2012

					INTRODUCTION
YOUR CUSTOMIZED HAIRSTYLE
THE CORRECT METHOD TO SHAMPOOING?
YOUR BEST FRIEND…YOUR HAIRBRUSH
STYLING YOUR HAIR
 FINE / THIN TEXTURE
 THICK / COARSE TEXTURE
 NATURAL CURL
SPECIALTY HAIR STYLING TECHNIQUES
 UPDOS / FORMAL STYLES
 BRAIDS

“TRY BEFORE YOU BUY” HAIRSTYLE?
COMPLICATED COIFFURES
 GENERAL HAIR CARE DO’S AND DON’TS
 ONE: PROBLEM HAIR
 TWO: SNAFUS

HAIR EXTENSION…ADD ON’S…WIGS
HAIR CUTS AT THE SALON
HOME HAIR CUTS
AT HOME HAIR COLOR
SIMPLISTIC HOME PERMS
HAIR CARE PRODUCTS
HOMEMADE PRODUCTS
HAIR REMOVAL
HAIR LOSS
FUN HAIR FACTS
Simplistic HairStyles                                    5


                                      Introduction
"When I look into a woman's hair I look into her very soul."
                        Antoine

What tales does your hair tell about you? Whether
you're young and pretty, warm and vivacious, cool and
sophisticated, mature and intelligent or gentle and
wise, does the world see you as you really are?

Or does your hairstyle:

Tell two tales. One, well groomed when you feel like
making the effort and two, messy and undone the other
part of the time? No woman can be more attractive
than her hairstyle, especially when it's custom designed
to bring out her individuality.

Scream “I’ve been defeated”? Hair that is oily, fine,
curly or a combination of all three got you down long
ago and you decided to surrender unconditionally.

Lack originality? You don't care how you look as long
as it's like someone else. Don't be a type. Be an
individual. Study the stars, but don’t imitate them. Your
beauty, like theirs, lies in being different.

Cry out bad taste? Too many tight, fussy curls, too
much hair color, an unflattering shade in the first place,
too many hairpieces worked into an archaic Mandarin
Simplistic HairStyles                                 6


or Southern-belle style or too many hair ornaments
which should be reserved for formal events.

Mirror your inability or unconscious refusal to keep up
with the times? Wearing a style that is way outdated,
not wanting to let go of the "comfortable" style you've
been wearing since high school.

A flattering hairstyle is within the reach of everyone of
us. And who knows, the assurance of knowing you look
your best may just give you the wonderful inward
feeling of confidence that you need and deserve.

Think about it, the curve of a lip can be flattened or
plumped. A nose or antenna ears can be altered by
plastic surgery. Eyes can be enlarged by makeup. It
takes weeks, even months of hard work and restraint to
develop a fashionable figure.

With no other feature can a woman do as much as she
can with her hair. And she can learn to do it herself or
have it done easily with a little help from “Simplistic
HairStyles”.

She can treat it as she would rough silk and color it any
shade she chooses. But unlike rough silk she can color
it again and again. She can cut it into any shape, and
even change its texture with styling products.

And a really good hairstyle can not only camouflage a
woman's worst features and enhance her best, it can
Simplistic HairStyles                                  7


improve her over all, bringing out the color of her eyes,
changing the apparent shading of her skin, but most of
all it can make her feel incredibly confident and sexy.

Beautiful hair can be yours if you have:

√ The desire to improve.
√ The patience to follow through.
√ Time (how much depends on the hairstyle) to
  invest.
√ Money (how much depends on the style) to invest.

But most important are the will and the patience.

Leave the rest to the wonderful world of modern beauty
science with its gentle hair colors, almost magical
products, an extensive amount of appliances to
choose, and the skill of today's hair stylists or your own
new found hair styling skills.

Don’t forget…before you launch your new beauty
regimen, to be realistic. It is possible to achieve your
most becoming hairstyle, but don't expect the
perfection of a magazine cover girl 24/7.

For a model, a stylist will hover with brush and comb
over each new creation until the split second before the
shutter of the fashion camera opens.

And if you are occasionally disappointed with your
hairstyle, remember this:
Simplistic HairStyles                                         8


     “A hairstyle is not a lifetime acquisition but a brief
   adventure, and there's always another new one ahead.”

Now before you pick up the phone to call your stylist,
before you run to the store to purchase another
hairstyle magazine, begin right here by first
understanding the things you must take into
consideration before you make your final decision.

This is a big step for you. Let’s get it right the first time
and every time there after.

We’ll begin by taking a look at the few imperative steps
you need to take into consideration when choosing
your new hairstyle including:

The shape of your face: Not all styles will be flattering
on you because of your face shape. That’s why it’s
crucial for you to make this the first step.

Ever since the first Greek sculptor, the oval face has
been the ideal of poet, lover and artist. If you have one,
you have no contour problems. If you don't, you can
approximate this perfection by optical illusion.

There are however faces which by their very
nonconformity assume a charm and distinction which
they might lose if forced into standardization.

You alone can decide whether a round face makes you
look wide eyed and pretty or whether the better part of
Simplistic HairStyles                                 9


beauty is to conform and ovalize.

But how do you know the shape of your face?...
This will be explained in the next chapter.

Your unique features: It’s important to accentuate
what you like most about your features and minimize
the parts you like least.

The shape of your face plays a vital role in the shaping
of your most flattering hairstyle. But it is not the only
featured player in this production.

Despite all you've seen or read on what to do if your
face is round as the moon or faceted like a diamond,
the truth is nothing is that simple.

There is fortunately, infinite variety in every face. And
what may be most becoming to your round face may
be completely wrong for your pointed nose. Something
has to give. You must, therefore, experiment endlessly
and usually compromise somewhere.

Nor does your problem stop at your jaw line. You must
also carefully consider the length of your neck, the
width of your shoulders, the broadness of your hips,
and your height in stocking feet, in other words, all of
you.

Beauty is largely a matter of balance. The spacing and
symmetry of your features, plus the bone structure of
Simplistic HairStyles                                 10


your body as well as your face determine the pleasing
or unpleasing effect you make on the eyes of your
audience.

What you must do is try to see yourself as others see
you and consider first the good of the whole and then
the integral parts. A sculptor fits the head of his statue
to its torso; you must work with what you have to
achieve the same perfect balance.

Pin your hair into proportions most flattering to your
figure, and then make allowances for your special face
and feature problems.

One fun way to do this is to study yourself in a full
length, three-way mirror while your hair is still foamy
with shampoo. Push your hair up, down or out until it is
in perfect harmony with your body contours. Then
make adjustments for a short neck or low forehead
while studying your head honestly in the mirror.

Time: Don’t choose a style that takes an hour each
morning if you need to get out the door in 15 minutes.

Creativity: Only you know if you have artistic abilities
or not. And if you don’t, please don’t choose a hairstyle
that requires that ability it will bring you nothing but
frustration. When you’re of artistic nature, you have a
wider range of styles to choose, from super easy to
difficult styles, because being creative and patient
comes easily to you.
Simplistic HairStyles                                11


Money: If money is short, don’t choose a style that
needs to be maintained frequently, or a style that
requires you to buy a lot of new “equipment”, i.e., hot
rollers, straightening irons, curling irons, to maintain
the style.


Note:
If all of this seems overwhelming for you don’t panic, it
can and will be much less complicated than you think.



Beyond Hair Styling you’ll also find an extensive
amount of other information pertaining to hair. From
hair loss to hair extensions, coloring your own hair to
perming your hair, even basic hair cutting at home is
included.

Rest assured, this is one book you’ll refer to over and
over for years to come.

In conclusion, I have just one last thing to add…throw
out those ball caps ladies because your hairstyling
nightmares are now a thing of the past.
Simplistic HairStyles   12
Simplistic HairStyles                                   13



                               Chapter One:
                 Your Customized HairStyle
____________________________________________

Your Own Distinct Formula
Step One: HairStyling via Face Shape
Step Two: HairStyling via Hair Texture
Step Three: HairStyling via Facial Features
____________________________________________

Your hairstyle speaks volumes about you and your
lifestyle. But is it saying what you want it to say? Is the
“hairstyle” impression you’re making on others how you
want to be perceived?

If it is, you’re way ahead of the game and…the
minority. If it’s not, maybe it’s time to transform the hair
you have into the hair you’ve always wanted. And
because there’s no better time than the present…let’s
begin.

Your homework assignment is to determine…

1. Step One: The Shape of Your Face.
2. Step Two: Your hair texture/type.
3. Step Three: Any features you may
   want to emphasize or de-emphasize.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  14


Once you determine these three critical steps, you’ll
find everything else about your hair falls right into place
and with a little practice can be done easily. Your new
style (determined by your answers) will look:

√ Tailored to you
√ Flattering on you and…
√ Unique only to you



Step One: The Shape of Your Face
Most people miss this critical first step of hairstyling,
including professional hairstylists. But trust me when I
tell you, “you’ll have far fewer bad hair days when you
complete, and NOT skip, this crucial step.”

1. Measure across the top of the
   cheekbones.
2. Measure the jaw line from the widest
   point to the widest point.
3. Measure your forehead at the widest
   part.
4. Measure from the top of your hairline
   to the bottom of your chin.


If your measurements are as follows;
Simplistic HairStyles                                 15


The length equals 1 ½ times the width. The shape of
your faces is…
 Oval

Your face measures as wide as is long. The shape of
your face is…
Round

The length is longer than it is wide. The shape of your
face is…
 Oblong

Your face is narrow at the jaw, wide at the cheekbones
and forehead. The shape of your face is…
Heart

Your face is slightly longer than it is wide. The shape of
your face is…
Square

Your face is most wide at the cheekbones. Narrow at
the forehead and jaw line and are of approximately
equal widths (the forehead and jaw). The shape of your
face is…
Diamond

Your face is narrow at the forehead, and wide at the
jaw. The shape of your face is…
Triangle / Pear
Simplistic HairStyles                                  16


Now, go measure your face, I’ll wait here. From here
on out, you can concentrate on the information in this
book that pertains directly to you!


Note:
It is possible to have a “combination face shape” too.
(For example; my face is oval but my jaw is slightly broad.
Therefore I’m a square/oval combination and can wear
most hairstyles that work with both face shapes.)
Simplistic HairStyles                                 17



Oval
You can wear almost (depending on hair texture and
unique features) any hairstyle you want! Your only
consideration should be not to distort your perfect
proportions. Make the most of them.

You alone look well in almost any part, including, if your
nose is good, the difficult to wear center part. But don't
shatter your ideal dimensions with a part worn too low
on the side, or bangs that are heavy or concealing.

If you have a widow’s peak…don’t hide it.

And even you should avoid wearing your hair pulled
back severely from your face.
Simplistic HairStyles                                     18




For more hairstyle pictures like these, you can go online at
http://www.hair-styles-cuts-and-dos.com

The gallery of hair styles is incredible, the site is easy to
navigate, and the hairstyle photos they have are realistic and
PLENTIFUL!
Simplistic HairStyles                                  19



Oblong
If your face is oblong, strive for styles which either
shorten or widen the long lines nature has given you.

Do…

√ Wear smooth, flat crowns.

√ Choose a style with some fullness at the sides
   whether it is out swirling wings, a short upturned
   page boy, or a puffed-under hairstyle. Bouffant
   styles are flattering to the longer face if the fullness
   is at the sides, not at the top.
√ Wear bangs if forehead is high.      Horizontal lines
   shorten the face. Divided bangs tend to ovalize your
   rectangular appearance.
√ Adopt hairstyles with lines that get wider as they
   climb; for example, a full crown with a fan shaped
   fringe which sweeps down over one side, thus
   ovalizing your face.
√ Try low, side parts with wispy bangs. They shorten
   brow and tend to round out square corners of your
   fore head.
√ See if a diagonal part flatters you most.

√ Direct layered ends to cheekbones. They cut length
   in half and draw attention to your eyes.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  20



Don’t…

√ Pile hair on head.
√ Wear a center part.
√ Push hair back severely or…
√ Wear sleek styles, you need softness.


Makeup…
Pencil brows in a straight line with slight up-tilt at ends
to give width to the face. Round ever so softly if straight
line is not flattering.

Lipstick should follow natural inclination of lips, more
full than thin, and turned upward slightly at either end.

To give the illusion of higher and more prominent
cheekbones and to add slight width to face, apply the
smallest amount of blush in a triangle right over jaw
hinge.


Hair Color…
A long, rectangular/oblong face will not seem as long
when hair at forehead is gradually shaded to darker
color on top and sides are lightened.
Simplistic HairStyles                                     21




For more hairstyle pictures like these, you can go online at
http://www.hair-styles-cuts-and-dos.com

The gallery of hair styles is incredible, the site is easy to
navigate, and the hairstyle photos they have are realistic and
PLENTIFUL!
Simplistic HairStyles                                  22



Triangle / Pear
Your face is a perfect triangle if it tapers from a wide
chin and jaw to a narrow forehead. You must
concentrate on adding width at the brow and
subtracting it at the jaw.

Do…

√ Draw attention away from the chin.
√ Wear width across forehead to balance jaw. Wide
  full bangs, dips and rolls at the temple are
  particularly attractive.
√ Try a style which lifts hair at temples, curves it
  around the brow in soft arcs and thus makes the
  brow seem wider.
√ Experiment with low side and angular parts.
√ Style hair full at temples and flat over the ears.
√ Swirl a full, wide wave or wear a wide, thick bang
  across forehead, thus concealing it and hinting at
  non-existent width.


Don’t…

√ Wear a long Bob, especially if hair is flat at temples.
√ Wear out-swinging lower sides that exaggerate jaw
  width.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  23


√ Adopt too straight a style. You need softness.


Makeup…
Create illusory brows which extend beyond the natural
line and sweep up with no downward tilt. Avoid straight
brows. Pluck out extra space between brows.

Highlight upper part of face with lighter foundation.
Subdue jaw with darker shade. Blend dark tone under
chin and over jaw.

Follow the natural curve of mouth, soft but not too full.

Apply blush at center of cheek, blending back up to the
temples and fading down over the jaw.


Hair Color…
Lighter hair at the temples and forehead will help make
the brow seem wider. A deeper shade at the lower
sides will help de-emphasize wide jaws.

Fortunately, you have a profile as well as a full face.
Take these into consideration as you plan your
hairstyle.
Simplistic HairStyles                                     24




For more hairstyle pictures like these, you can go online at
http://www.hair-styles-cuts-and-dos.com

The gallery of hair styles is incredible, the site is easy to
navigate, and the hairstyle photos they have are realistic and
PLENTIFUL!
Simplistic HairStyles                               25



Round
Your face is nearly circular with rounded cheeks, full
chin and fairly low forehead. You need more length and
less width. You can approximate the perfect oval in
many ways.

Do…

√ Add height at the crown. Draw attention to the top of
  your head with high curls, fluffed bangs, whirling ac-
  tivity, a honey bun, a built-up top over flattened
  sides. Fluffed bangs, however, must end at the
  hairline or they will lower forehead unbecomingly.
√ Keep hair full and soft above the ears so the illusion
  of height is further increased.
√ Wear hair sleek and flattened at sides. This
  elongates roundness. Sophisticated layers brought
  forward at cheeks and temples also make a round
  face seem narrower and at the same time the
  emphasize eyes.
√ Break symmetry with a daring division like an
  asymmetric wispy bangs, slanted part, fluff worn on
  one side.
√ Wear hair in generous waves rather than tight curls.
Simplistic HairStyles                              26


Don’t…

√ Wear a middle part which makes your face seem
  even rounder.
√ Adopt fussy little details and circular effects which
  will only emphasize roundness.
√ Wear hair flat on top.
√ Attempt wide, flat bangs.
√ Wear round necklines or button earrings.



Makeup…
Brows should be raised as much as possible for a
longer, slimmer look. Pluck hairs from underneath brow
and form a new brow line on top to blend with your
own. Line should end in a definite upsweep.


Hair Color…
Used by an expert color artist, haircolor can give the
illusion of symmetry to faces cheated by nature. It can
make a too round face look longer, make a long face
seem shorter.

But do not attempt this trick yourself. The effect must
be so subtle as to be practically undetectable. Light
areas must blend delicately and gradually into dark
areas without sharp lines of demarcation. Shadings
must be in only one color, from a pale to a dark ash
Simplistic HairStyles                             27


blonde but never, say, from blonde to titian.

Elongate the round face by lightening hair at forehead
and then shading gradually to a darker crown. Hair at
sides is toned to match crown.
Simplistic HairStyles                                     28




For more hairstyle pictures like these, you can go online at
http://www.hair-styles-cuts-and-dos.com

The gallery of hair styles is incredible, the site is easy to
navigate, and the hairstyle photos they have are realistic and
PLENTIFUL!
Simplistic HairStyles                              29



Square
Your jaw line is about as wide as your cheeks and your
forehead tends toward the square. You must work to
add height, soften corners with curves and lengthen
your face slightly.

Do…

√ Draw the eye of the beholder upward to make face
  seem longer,
√ Wear a diagonal part. Or try a bouffant top swept
  from a low side part.
√ Look for styles with rounded movement.
√ Break into forehead corners with fringed bangs or
  waves. Try swirly or divided bangs.
√ Wear soft, full waves but keep them close to the
  head.
√ Affect swirling side wings which move out and up to
  balance square jaws.
√ Try sleek but buoyant crown rising to enough height
  to lessen width. But keep it head-hugging at sides.


Don’t…

√ Style hair too severely or pull back at temples. Both
  accentuate a square chin.
Simplistic HairStyles                              30


√ Wear a flat top style.
√ Use small, tight curls.
√ Part hair in the middle.



Makeup…
Brows can lift the heaviness of too many straight lines
by sweeping up and out. If necessary, pluck. Avoid thin
brows too highly arched.

Round your face by subtly deepening foundation shade
at temples and sides, while keeping forehead light.

To draw eyes up and away from prominent jaws,
spread foundation in semicircle on center of each
cheek. Blend back to ears and down to jaw. Blend
carefully to leave no more than the impression of a
shadow.

Draw lower lip as full as possible but draw almost
square to detract attention from jaw.


Hair Color…
Softly round your face and elongate it by coloring hair
lighter at forehead and keeping it darker on temples
and each side.
Simplistic HairStyles                                     31




For more hairstyle pictures like these, you can go online at
http://www.hair-styles-cuts-and-dos.com

The gallery of hair styles is incredible, the site is easy to
navigate, and the hairstyle photos they have are realistic and
PLENTIFUL!
Simplistic HairStyles                               32



Diamond
A diamond shaped face is not always a girl's best
friend. Your face is a perfect diamond if width is
concentrated at the middle and both your forehead and
jaw are narrower and approximately the same size.

You have three major problems to concentrate on
when looking for your ideal hairstyle. You must fill out
the brow area, de-emphasize the widest points of your
face and soften your chin if it happens to be more
pointed than round.

Do…

√ Keep hair full and wide at top. But not too high. This
  will tend to broaden your brow and ovalize your
  wide cheek span.
√ Keep hair at sides soft. Wear over ears and sweep
  forward.
√ Experiment with lengths to see which is the most
  becoming. A little longer than ear-length with
  upturned ends should be flattering if your chin is not
  pointed.


Don’t…

√ Brush hair straight back from ears and temples.
Simplistic HairStyles                              33


√ Some bangs can be flattering but avoid ones which
  tend to make brow look narrower.


Makeup…
Brows may turn down the most imperceptible bit at tips.
Blend mascara and shadow outward.

Curve mouth to make your chin seem less pointed.
Wear lighter foundation at forehead and at chin.


Hair Color…
Hair should be darker at the forehead and back, lighter
at the temples and lower sides.
Simplistic HairStyles                                     34




For more hairstyle pictures like these, you can go online at
http://www.hair-styles-cuts-and-dos.com

The gallery of hair styles is incredible, the site is easy to
navigate, and the hairstyle photos they have are realistic and
PLENTIFUL!
Simplistic HairStyles                             35



Heart
The heart shaped face, has long been popular with
poets. Your face is heart-shaped if it's wide at the
forehead and tapered to a pointed, piquant chin.

To attain the illusion of the desirable oval you must
balance your face by filling out the chin and taking
away width from the forehead.

Do…

√ Wear fluffy, asymmetric bangs which cover part but
  not your entire wide brow.
√ Try fullness and width below the ears to broaden
  the narrow chin line.
√ Break your own heart with angled parts. Try a high
  part that slants straight toward the center of the
  crown to break forehead width.
√ Wear hair ear-tip length. Longer length covers ears
  and balances narrow jaw.
√ Direct eye catching defined strands of hair toward
  your cheekbones.
√ Concentrate on soft hairlines.


Don’t…

√ Wear straight bangs.
Simplistic HairStyles                            36


√ Part your hair dead center.
√ Skim your hair back.


Makeup…
Brows should be widely arched. Shadow should be
applied from lash to brow.

Emphasize both upper and lower outer lids with
eyeliner.

Make a wide generous curve of your lips.


Hair Color…
Keep hair lighter at forehead and temples, darker at
crown and back.
Simplistic HairStyles                                     37




For more hairstyle pictures like these, you can go online at
http://www.hair-styles-cuts-and-dos.com

The gallery of hair styles is incredible, the site is easy to
navigate, and the hairstyle photos they have are realistic and
PLENTIFUL!
Simplistic HairStyles                               38


Step Two: Hair Texture
There are three types texture of hair; fine, normal and
coarse. Only fine and coarse have distinctive
characteristics.

A common misconception is to confuse fine hair with
thin hair. There is a big difference.

Fine hair is determined by the diameter of an actual
strand of hair, the smaller the diameter, the finer the
hair. In other words, a thick head of hair can be
adorned with tons of fine hair strands.

Another misconception is to confuse coarse hair with
thick hair. Once again there is a big difference. Coarse
hair is also determined by the diameter of a strand of
hair, the larger the diameter, the coarser the hair.
Therefore, coarse hair can be thin as well as thick.



Fine Texture
Fine hair reflects light well which is a nice bonus but
does not hold a style for very long which can be very
frustrating for the fine haired friend.

It also tends to break easily so stay away from styles
that require a lot of blow drying, perms or hair care
products that contain large amounts of alcohol.
Simplistic HairStyles                               39


How to wear your hair…
One option is slightly layered especially at the ends to
give the hair bounce and body. Fine hair can be worn
long but remember to have it blunt cut (straight across)
and not rounded in the back. Rounding tends to make
the hair look “sparse” or straggly.




Medium Texture
The most common type of texture, it is neither super
smooth nor rough to the touch. It is usually full of
bounce and body and will hold a style rather nicely. It
considered    normal   and    poses     no    special
considerations regarding processing and chemical
services.


How to wear your hair…
Just like the oval shape face, medium textured hair can
Simplistic HairStyles                                40


be worn in most any style. Because of this, concentrate
more on “how to wear your hair” via face shape and
facial features.




Coarse Texture
Coarse hair can be just as stubborn as most teenagers
and for that reason you may need to be a little more
firm. Don’t forget, you’re the boss. Coarse hair tends to
"poke" out, stand up and go in any direction but the
direction you’re desperately trying to style it. It’s the
strongest of hair and has "attitude".

The good news is coarse hair is extremely versatile.
From sophisticated to funky the choices of hairstyles
are abundant.

One of the few exceptions is sleek hairstyles. Forget
the fact you’d spend most of your day styling your hair
into this style, the minute you walk outside, even if the
Simplistic HairStyles                                41


humidity is at 1%, it’s still 1% too much and POOF your
sleek design is now your "eek" design.

Careful thought and experimenting of hair care
products are needed to determine what product will
give you the longest lasting and simplest ending style
result.
How to wear your hair…
Layers are not recommended unless the hairstyle is a
short to very short hairstyle. They tend to make the hair
look unmanageable and give it “fly a ways”.
Simplistic HairStyles                               42


Step Three: Facial Features
An overlooked area you need to consider when styling
your hair is anything “unique” pertaining to your facial
features that you either want to emphasize or
deemphasize, including:


THE EYES
Close Set Eyes…
If your eyes are close together, you want to give your
face the illusion of being wider at the temple area.
Wear your hair back and away from your face at the
temples. Also, a side part with some height on the top
works well.
Wide Set Eyes…
If your eyes are farther apart, you want to give your
face the illusion of being larger therefore everything
looks in proportion. Create height on the top of your
head and volume on the sides.

Try divided bangs with wings of hair over temples on
each side. Pluck all strays between brows. Concentrate
mascara only on outer top lashes.


The Ears
Protruding Ears…
Cover with waves winging up from back. Or wear full
over the ears.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 43




THE NOSE
Crooked Nose…
Wear your hairstyle parted on the side. Which side
depends on your nose. If it’s crooked to the right,
swoop the hair left. If it’s crooked to the left swoop it
right.
Wide Nose…
Wear your hair away from your face. Using a center
part helps elongate and narrow the nose.
Small Nose…
Avoid exaggerated upswept hairstyles, bangs below
the hairline. Fluffy bangs are fine but they should not
be worn too long. Set in small curls and waves.
Prominent Nose…
Seemingly shorten by pulling hair up and away from
face. Balance with curls or chignon at back of head.
Wide waves are the most flattering. Tiny curls make
nose seem even bigger. Keep bangs or fluff above
hairline. Try some sort of lift. Concentrate on hairstyles
with a lot of fullness.

Avoid middle parts. Highlight cheeks with base lighter
than that used on rest of face. Keep blush away from
nose and blend out to hairline. Pluck width between
brow. Brows should start above inner corner of each
eye.
Apply foundation one shade darker directly under outer
tip of nose. Use foundation at sides of the nose, too, if
Simplistic HairStyles                                44


it is wide as well as outstanding.


THE JAW
Round…
Wear straight lines at the jaw.
Square…
Wear curved lines at the jaw.
Long…
Your hair should fall below the jaw and be full.


THE CHEEKS
Plump Cheeks…
Pull hair slightly forward at sides and forehead beyond
hairline so fringe covers sides of cheeks. Avoid center
part.
Thin Cheeks…
Pull side hair back. Don't let it extend beyond hairline.
Hair can be worn fluffed out. Back interest at cheek
level is also flattering.


THE FOREHEAD
Large Forehead…
Camouflage with bangs or massing of forward curls.
Narrow / Short forehead…
Camouflage with high-standing bangs which do not
come down over hairline.
Receding Forehead…
Direct the bangs over the forehead with some volume,
Simplistic HairStyles                                    45


not lying straight on your forehead.


THE CHIN
Receding Chin…
Bring front and side hair forward. Keep hair full at back.
Use over-all foundation one shade darker than skin
tone. Use lighter shade on chin carrying it beneath jaw.
Small Chin…
Keep your hair OFF of your chin.
Large Chin…
Don't let side and top hair extend beyond hairline. Use
light base. Apply darker shade to chin and under jaw.
Powder this part of face last. A low lying part also
draws attention away from an overly prominent jaw.
Thin Chin…
Concentrate on fluffiness below ears. Avoid long,
straight hairstyles or any upswept style.


THE NECK
Short / Plump Neck…
Back hair should be no longer than hairline and not
fussy. Keep well-groomed. Long hair makes neck look
shorter.
Long / Thick Neck…
Avoid short hair. Hair that covers the neck looks best.
Thin Neck…
Wear hair soft, full and longer than natural hairline.
Simplistic HairStyles                               46




IF YOU WEAR GLASSES
Round or Square Shape Face…
Wear glasses with straight or squared off lines.
Glasses with round lenses will help soften a square
face.
Heart or Diamond Shape Face…
Wear lightweight (thin), dark frames will look great.
Make sure the glasses fit close to your face and do not
protrude.

Small and/or Narrow Shape Face…
Wear "reasonably" large frames. Vertical lines will help
make the face appear shorter. (If you have a long face)


TYPES OF PARTS
Diagonal…
Adds height and width
Curved…
Used for a receding hair line
Side…
Adds height. Makes thinning hair look fuller
Center…
Gives an oval illusion to wide and round faces (Not
recommended for people with prominent noses)
Simplistic HairStyles                                     47


Zig Zag…
Used for a fun effect


BODY SHAPE
If You Are Short…
No matter what the shape of your face, you must avoid
hair that is too long, too fluffy or too elaborate. Brush
hair up to create an illusion of height. Keep fullness
above ears. Short hair is more flattering. Avoid
pageboys and sleek, severe lines. Concentrate on a
softer look.
If You Are Short and Plump…
Wear medium length hair.
If You Are Tall and Slender…
You need volume to avoid a pinheaded look. Hair
should be worn medium length and soft to balance
angular lines. Practice a great deal with jumbo rollers.
You'll use these most often for hairstyle flattery.
If You Are Tall and Big Boned…
You need volume or feature large diagonal waves
reaching below the ears.

Remember:
“Most people miss the critical first steps (face shape and
features) of hairstyling, including professional hairstylists.
But trust me when I tell you, you’ll have far fewer bad
hair days when you complete - and NOT skip - the above
three crucial steps. (Face shape, texture of hair, and
facial features)”.
Simplistic HairStyles                             48




Now it’s time to put it all together and choose the
hairstyles unique only to you. You hold the power in
your own two hands to banish “bad hair days” forever!
Simplistic HairStyles                               49



                             Chapter Two:
 A Correct Method of Shampooing?

The more you wash your hair the more you have to
wash it. Or in more scientific terms, “repeated removal
of oil from your hair leads to replacement not only at a
more rapid rate but at a decidedly increased rate.”

Many hair experts point out that ideally a shampoo
should not clean too well and all the publicity about
squeaky clean hair is nonsense. Shampoo should
remove dirt and scalp debris from hair and scalp but
really nothing else.

Modern shampoo formulas, they continue, tend to float
everything away, and then replace natural oils with a
substitute.

One of the following shampoo schedules may be the
best one for you:

    If hair is normal with a tendency toward oiliness,
    shampoo three or four times a week.
    For normal hair, attempt to observe a five day
    waiting period. Wash more often if necessary.
    If hair is dry and wiry, try to extend your shampoo
    waiting period to once a week.
Simplistic HairStyles                               50


    If hair is excessively oily, wash it as often as
    necessary to keep it attractive. But be sure you
    rinse out every “sud” of shampoo which can irritate
    scalp.


☺ Don't try to emulate Queen Isabella, who had only
two shampoos in her life…one the day she was born,
the other the night before her marriage to King
Ferdinand.

Remember, "Know Thyself" applies to hair, too. You
and you alone know your hair well enough to establish
the ideal shampoo program that will leave your hair lus-
trous and manageable as well as clean.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  51




                           Chapter Three:
    Your Best Friend Should Be Your
                        Hair Brush

____________________________________________

Your Hair Brush, Your Best Friend
Which Brush Is Your Brush?
Bristle Know How
____________________________________________

If a girl's best friend is a brush, she should choose her
friends carefully. Never scrimp or save on a hairbrush.
The strength of the brush you use depends on your
hair type.

Many experts endorse only natural bristle brushes. Al-
though they are more likely to be more expensive, one
of their big advantages is a natural affinity for the hair.
Both boars' bristles and human hair are composed of
keratin.

Nylon bristles are easy to clean, firm and are usually
found in less expensive brushes.

Sturdy, coarse hair requires an extra stiff bristle. Very
Simplistic HairStyles                                 52


coarse hair needs a whale-bone bristle, which also is
good for dislodging annoying flakes.

Thin hair demands a softer brush. So does colored
hair. Select a light, soft brush for baby's fine hair. But
after a child reaches the age of two, switch to a firmer
brush.

Beauty is as beauty does. To keep hair clean and
healthy, shampoo your brush at least as often as you
do your hair. After each brushing, wipe bristles on a
rough towel to remove excess dirt.

Remove hair gently by running a comb through bristles.
Swish in tepid water to which mild soap suds have
been added. Never use harsh detergents, and immerse
bristles only - not the brush. Never soak it. Now rinse in
tepid water and then cold water.

Shake to remove excess moisture. Dry handle with a
soft towel and bristles by placing brush bristle side
down on a towel so no water settles in the base. You
don't want a mildewed brush.

Dry near an open window. Avoid direct rays of sun.
Never dry in artificial heat or on top of a radiator.


Which Brush is Your Brush

“If you’re having trouble styling your hair it may not
Simplistic HairStyles                                     53


necessarily be your styling products, but rather the one thing
that rarely occurs to most…your hair brush.”

Following is a guide best matching what type of brush
you should be using, in accordance to your own unique
hair.


Round Brushes
Small to medium round brushes work best on shorter
hair, while big round brushes are often favored by
hairstylists for blow drying medium length to long hair.

Round brushes are used to give volume or curl to
shorter hair and the smaller the barrel, the tighter the
curl. Shape the final style with your fingers and then
apply a little wax, pomade or gel to the ends.

For medium length to long hair you'll need a large
(1” or larger) brush.

When styling, start at the roots and be careful not to
wrap a big section of hair around the brush or you’ll
wind up with a tangled nightmare.


Semi Circular or Half Round Brushes
These brushes are suitable on both wet and dry hair for
all types of grooming, styling and blow drying and
they're available in a wide variety of sizes.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  54


Vent and Tunnel Brushes
Designed with holes around the circumference of the
barrel or base of the brush, they allow air to circulate
through the hair while blowing it dry creating more
volume and decreasing the time it takes your hair to
dry.


Paddle brushes
Paddle brushes are great for smoothing out medium
length to long hair. If you want to dry your hair straight,
hold the brush at a 90 degree angle to the hair and aim
the blow-dryer at the base of the brush.



Bristle Know How
Brushes come with natural boar bristles or synthetic
nylon or wire quills. Other brushes feature a mix of
natural and synthetic bristles in order to offer the
benefits of both varieties. Whichever type of bristle you
go for, check the spacing between the rows.

Wide-spaced rows and staggered rows of pins enable
a brush to slip through the hair more easily…an
important feature if you have thick, wavy or curly hair.

When a brush's bristles get damaged, you'll need to
replace it.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 55


Natural Bristles
Are great for touching up (grooming) after your style is
complete because they create less friction and stress
on the hair. These types of bristles are also great
because they distribute sebum, the hair's natural
conditioner, down the hair shaft therefore adding shine.
Boar Bristles
Are easiest on normal, fine, thinning or damaged hair.
A good bristle brush should not scratch the scalp, yet it
shouldn't be so soft that it slides ineffectively over the
hair.
Nylon or Plastic Quills
Also called pins, are widely used for budget priced,
everyday brushes. Look for pins that have rounded or
ball tips on the ends. These help to avoid scratching
your scalp.
Wire Quills
Are often used on brushes that have metal bases, and
firm, wire quills are well suited to brushing thick hair.
Rubber Pads
On any brush have an anti-static quality which make
them a must for fine hair or hair that tends to be
flyaway. Some brushes have detachable rubber pads
for easy cleaning.
Metal Bases
Are used in brushes because they retain heat,
mimicking a curling iron.
Simplistic HairStyles   56
Simplistic HairStyles                                57



                            Chapter Four:
                             Styling Your Hair

_________________________________________


Fine / Thin Texture
Thick / Coarse Texture
Natural Curl
Grey Hair
____________________________________________



By now you’ve determined your shape face, Hair
texture and have learned creative ways to hide or
enhance your unique features. Now it’s time to unveil
styling techniques used by the professionals to obtain
that salon look at home.



Fine / Thin Texture
Skin like a baby's may be every woman's lifelong
desire. But hair like a baby's? Soft and silken as it may
be to an admirer's touch, its picture book wisps are
more unmanageable than an unruly two year old. Ask
any woman who must cope daily with this hair that just
never grew up.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 58


Fine hair falls flat on your ear right after styling,
refusing to take orders from brush or comb. It goes limp
in summer and flies away in a disorderly halo in winter.
And with its notoriously unfair share of flexibility or
resilience, it limits its wearer to comparatively few
styles.

What fine hair lacks is the body which makes it
possible to put hair in its place and keep it there.
Because of this, you’ll need to create an illusion of
fullness or add it via chemical processes.

Many hairstylists believe the best way to bolster fine
hair is to blunt cut each strand. They strive for a layer
on layer arrangement to make each line of hair spring
up to give the effect of considerably more body.

And should your stylist begin to cut your hair to a short
or medium length, don't try to stop him.

People with fine hair hate to part with any of it. But the
sheer weight of long hair only drags it down and makes
it look thinner. Most baby fine hair looks best when cut
to a medium length.

So forget about an all American girl pageboy look or
styles which feature wings of hair swooping down over
your ears.

Bangs, if your forehead can take them, are a boon.
These fringe benefits add fullness and mask undistin-
Simplistic HairStyles                                59


guished hairlines.

As essential as a good style is a soft permanent which
will give your hair body. Your stylist may recommend
preconditioning. But whether you roll your own
permanent or go to a salon, be sure the lotion used is
gentle and a test curl is taken. Frizziness must be
avoided at all costs.

Very fine, extra limp hair should, if possible, be permed
in a salon where the procedure can be under constant
control by a professional. Extremely fine hair tends to
lose elasticity easily and could, if improperly handled,
become even limper than before.

Do…

√ While blowing your hair dry, use metal hair brushes.
  Metal will get hot from the heat of the dryer and act
  as a “curling iron”
√ Hold the dryer about six inches away from your
  head.
√ Add volume by applying a product that creates lift
  before drying
√ Wash your hair with volumizing shampoo. Follow up
  with volumizing conditioner and volumizing Styling
  Products
√ Consider a chemical process preferably hair color
  but a body perm will do the trick too. Chemical
Simplistic HairStyles                                60


    processes raise the hair shaft increasing the
    diameter of the hair making it appear thicker and
    fuller.
√ If you wear a bang, make it short and thick. This
  also gives the hair the illusion of being thicker and
  fuller.
√ When conditioning your hair, apply only to the ends,
  NOT the scalp.


Don’t…

√ Stay away from styles that require a lot of blow
  drying, perms and hair care products that contain
  large amounts of alcohol.
√ Do not use heavy or strong holding styling products,
  they’ll weigh your hair down. Instead use “light”
  Styling Products such as mousse.
√ Even think about having your hair razor cut.
√ Let your hair get heavy with length. It will only weigh
  your hair down and make it look straggly and thin.
√ Double process your hair. If you color DONT perm.
  If you PERM, don't color.
√ Dry you hair in one spot for more than a few
  seconds. Keep the dryer moving.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 61


Products to Use...
When using products for this type of hair, you do not
need to use “Volumizing” products from beginning
(shampoo) to end (hairspray).

For example; if your hair is chemically treated and you
can not find a shampoo or conditioner for chemically
treated hair that also adds volume, buy the shampoo
for chemically treated hair (to add moisture and repair)
and get the volume you desire with volumizing Styling
Products such as mousse or gel.

How much product used is determined by what type of
product you’re using and how thin/fine your hair. For
Styling Products, the lighter the product, the more you
should use. As for shampoos and conditioners, the size
of a dime to a nickel should be sufficient.


Shampoo
Shampoo fine, oily hair frequently with a shampoo
formulated for this type hair. When it becomes dirty its
weight tends to drag hair down and make it look
thinner.

If your fine hair is neither dry nor oily, use a shampoo
made for normal hair.

Color or Highlighted Shampoo
These shampoos are designed to enhance or enrich
the color of your hair whether it is your natural color or
Simplistic HairStyles                              62


color treated hair. They are slightly pigmented and are
a gradual process.

Chemically Treated Hair Shampoo
(If your hair is colored or permed)
These shampoos are for used for colored, permed,
highlighted, bleached and chemically straitened hair.
They contain ingredients to moisturize and strengthen
hair that is weakened by a chemical process.

Clarifying Shampoo
(Two to Three times a month)
These shampoos are formulated to clarify the hair of
pollution, chlorine and Styling Products - all of which
will weigh your hair down. Do not use on a daily basis
but rather weekly or twice a month in addition to the
shampoo you use on a daily basis.

Volumizing Shampoo
The main ingredients allow the strands of hair to
“plump” creating a temporary volume. They can be
found     in    many     combinations     including;
volumizing/moisturizing,   and      volumizing/color
enhancing


Conditioner

Should you condition? Well, if you have hair then the
answer is… “YES”.
Simplistic HairStyles                                63


Conditioners have gotten a bad wrap. And the reasons
for this are they are being used for the wrong reason or
the wrong type of conditioner is being used.

First the reasons for using a conditioner:

    Your hair is dry.
    Prevention of static electricity.
    As a detangler.
    To rebuild damaged hair.

Choosing the right conditioner is key:

Healthy Hair
Your hair needs conditioner to prevent the “fly a ways”,
to detangle and to prevent static and future splint ends.

Dry Hair
Your hair needs to be repaired and moisturized. Use a
conditioner that states it’s for dry hair and follow the
directions for use.

Damaged Hair
Your hair needs to be rebuilt from the inside out.
Choose a deep conditioner formulated for fine/thin hair
which you leave on your hair for at least 5 up to 20
minutes.

The number one reason I hear as to why people don’t
like conditioner?
Simplistic HairStyles                                  64


“It weighs my hair down.”

Do you want to know a little secret? There is no
conditioner (formulated for your hair type) in this world
that will weigh your hair down.

All these years you were blaming it on the conditioner
when in reality; the conditioner wasn’t the problem, you
were. “It” doesn’t weigh your hair down - you do.

Don’t be offended. I’m sure it’s not your fault. Probably
your stylist didn’t recommend the correct conditioner or
if she did, I’ll guarantee she didn’t stress the fact you
need to rinse, rinse and rinse some more.

Don’t be afraid of rinsing too much. You can’t over
rinse. The fact is, your hair is as intelligent as you are,
it uses only what it needs and that’s it.

Don’t believe me? Next time you put the correct conditioner
on your hair, rinse it out thoroughly, until you hear it
“squeak” - I guarantee you will not have limp hair and your
hair will still be silky and conditioned.


Styling Products

Hairspray
Select a spray by the desired amount of hold. Use the
product sparingly.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  65


Volumizers
Volumizing products come in many forms from
shampoo and conditioner to gels, mousse and creams.
Apply according to the directions on the product.

Thickeners
Are heat activated and will not work without the heat of
a blow dryer. They add more volume than volumizing
products, however there is a trade off. Thickeners
create a “matte” look as opposed to volumizing
products that give more of a shine.

To apply, start at the nape, from underneath the hair
moving towards the crown. Comb the product thru
evenly. Blow hair upside down until almost dry. Flip
your head up then dry in the direction of the desired
style.


How To Wear Your Hair
Creativity plays the most important role in styling
fine / thin hair. From choosing just the right products,
hair cut and styling tricks, in order to give your hair the
illusion of being thicker and more voluminous than it
really is.

Fine/thin hair should not be worn below the shoulders.
After this point it will begin to look straggly.

The best styles for men are short to very short. The
best styles for women are chin length Bobs which give
Simplistic HairStyles                                     66


the hair more body and bounce at the ends of the hair.

A soft layered bang (which also adds height) or slightly
layered sides will give the illusion of thicker hair.


Note:
Although there’s a big difference in fine vs. thin hair (thin
hair is merely a “lack” of hair), both have similar styling
techniques. To simplify, we’ve condensed “Styling Your
Hair” to include both Fine and Thin as a whole.


How To Style Your Hair
The biggest “how to” dilemma for this hair type is
volume. There are so many ways to get great volume
out of lifeless, limp, flat hair. You just need to know
how.

All the following methods are tried and true. The
hardest part will be deciding which method (or
methods) will be your method.


Keep the following tips in mind before rolling / curling
your hair.

Tips:

•   The larger the roller, the looser the curl will be.
•   The longer you leave your rollers in, the longer the
    curl will last. (The minimum amount of time should
Simplistic HairStyles                                  67


    be 10 minutes. Use your own judgment.)
•   Give rollers a “shot” of cold air (before removing
    them) with your blow dryer. This will set the curl and
    give you a longer lasting style.
•   For firm, crunchy curls, (a more formal than casual
    look), apply a light styling gel to each strand of hair
    before rolling it with the iron or roller.



Hot Appliances for Volume

Hair Brush and Blow Dryer
While blow drying your hair, use a round or vent brush
(made with Boar bristles). The size of the round brush
will depend on the length of your hair and the amount
of curl you are aiming for.

Obviously, a large round brush equals large (loose)
curls. A small round brush equals smaller (tighter)
curls.

However, you can still achieve a large curl with a small
brush if your hair is short. You can do this by using the
“largest” small brush that will turn your hair at least a ½
but no more than one turn around the brush.

Concentrate the air flow on the roots then work your
way down the rest of the hair.

Stop here. If you like the way your hair looks there is no
Simplistic HairStyles                                68


need to go any farther. However, if you desire a longer
lasting style or the curls are too lose, continue as
described below.

Hot Rollers
Hot rollers can add a great amount of volume to your
hair if done properly.

The best place to start is with completely dry hair.
Never use hot appliances even on damp hair. When
hair is damp it is extremely vulnerable to damage.

Take 1” thick by 2” to 3” wide sections. Lightly spray
your hair with hair spray before rolling.

Depending on what type of style you’re going for will
determine which method or rolling technique you’ll use.

Just volume ~ no curl
Roll only underneath the top crown layer of your hair.

Barely a curl
Use rollers big enough to go around each section of
hair only once no more than one and a half times. Roll
the whole head or every other section of hair.

Bouncy curls
Rollers should go around each section of hair at least
two times. Put the hot rollers in the direction you want
your hair to style.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 69


Mid to end curl with a flat crown
Roll the rollers only halfway up each strand of hair, and
then secure.

No matter which type of curl you choose, follow the
steps below before removing the rollers.

Tips:

•   Gently remove the rollers only when they have cooled.
    The fact is, the longer you leave the curlers in your
    hair the longer the curl will last.
•   Immediately after removing all the rollers, give your
    hair a shot of cold air with your blow dryer. The cold
    shot will help set the style.
•   End by shaking, finger placing, or brushing your hair
    the way you want it to lay, then apply a styling gel
    (only after you’ve rubbed it between your fingers) or
    hairspray.

Curling Iron
Curling irons are extremely versatile. From adding tons
of curl to your hair to adding just volume you can
achieve the look you’re “looking” for.

Choosing the appropriate size iron:

    For more curl, make sure you are using an iron with
    less than a 1” barrel.
Simplistic HairStyles                                    70


    For less curl and more body, use an iron with a
    barrel bigger than 1”.
    For just wave or body, use an iron with a 2” barrel.


Curling long hair is a little different than curling short to
medium length hair.

Because heat is what makes your hair take the form of
the curl and because long hair needs rolled around the
iron more times than shorter hair, the mid shaft up to
the crown will have a harder time receiving the heat of
the iron.

In order to correct this problem you must first apply
heat to the shaft and up to your scalp before you begin
curling from the ends up.

To do this, simply take a smooth piece of hair. Holding
it straight down and slightly out, run the hot iron up and
down the strand of hair in a back and forth motion (very
similar to ironing) to heat that part of the hair.

Once that strand is good and hot place the iron midway
up the hair then roll the iron to the roots and then begin
opening and shutting the iron as you slide it down the
strand of hair adding more hair going towards the ends
until you get to the ends. Once you get to the ends, roll
it back up to the scalp.

To curl short hair, take a smooth piece of hair and
Simplistic HairStyles                                71


place iron close to the scalp. Run the hot iron down the
strand of hair to the ends. Then roll iron back up
towards the scalp. Hold in place for a few seconds,
gently releasing the hair.


Straightening Iron
Use only as much heat as necessary to straighten the
hair. Fine / Thin hair requires less heat than Thick /
Coarse hair.

Make small partings no longer than the base of the flat
iron itself and then comb to detangle. The smaller the
partings, the nicer and straighter your sections will be.
Next, use a slow pulling motion from scalp to ends to
get a smoothing, silkening effect.

To achieve a bend in your hair whether it is at the
crown or on the ends, slightly twist the iron, and then
bend the hair in the iron. Hold for a second or two then
begin slowly moving down the hair shaft again.


Back Combing

Back Comb the Crown for Lift
You don’t have to look as though you just walked out of
the fifties. A subtle teasing in the crown can add lift
without being noticeable.

Grab a 1” thick by 1 ½” to 2” wide section of hair and
Simplistic HairStyles                                72


start teasing the strand of hair from about 3” above the
scalp down to the scalp.

Repeat teasing sections until you have completed the
crown.

Lightly comb over the teased area making the crown
smooth. Not too much combing or you’ll comb the
teasing out.

That’s it!


Blow Drying for Volume

Root Pull
Begin with a good volumizing spray applied to the roots
before you begin drying.

Simply pull your hair up at the root as you blow dry, all
the while concentrating the dryer on the roots. Direct
your hair up and in the direction you want it to flow.

When your hair is dry, place a small dollop of light
styling gel onto your fingertips, rub between your
fingers before applying to the roots. Now apply it to
your scalp and roots of your hair in a small circular
motion. This creates even more height and makes for a
better hold.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  73


Blow Your Hair in the Opposite Direction
While your hair is still wet, begin blowing in the
opposite direction you normally would (without a
brush). Do this until it’s almost dry.

Then begin drying in the direction intended for the final
style with a round brush. Finish the style with a spritz of
hair spray.


Dry Your Hair Upside Down
Use this method every time you dry your hair whether
or not you use another method for adding volume.

To give your hair a longer lasting hold by blowing it
upside down, apply a strong hold styling aid to your
hair before you begin to dry.

Once the hair is dry, give it a spritz of hair spray (while
you’re still upside down) and then flip your head back
up. Use your fingers to place pieces of hair in the
direction you want it to go.


Products for Volume

Thickening shampoo
You’ve got to love modern science. There are so many
products on the market today formulated for so many
types of hair. And they really do work!
Simplistic HairStyles                                 74


Thickening shampoo is a great beginning to full, thick,
voluminous hair.

After shampooing with volumizing shampoo, follow any
one of the above steps for hair with tons of volume.


Volumizing Spray
Once again, thumbs up to modern science. One of my
favorite volumizing sprays is Paul Mitchell Volumizing
Spray. These sprays are not only good for volume but
also give an all day lasting hold.

Simply spray your damp roots where you want lift and
then dry using the Root Pull method.


Chemical Processes for Volume

Hair Color
Hair color plumps each strand of hair by lifting the hairs
cuticle. And you don’t have to change your natural
color; semi permanent colors “plump” also.

If you are a first timer, choose a semi permanent color.
If in doubt as to which color to choose, pick the lighter
shade. Also, refer to the “Simplistic HairColor” chapter
of this book.


Perms
Simplistic HairStyles                                 75


Perms are great because they add a lot of body and
are extremely versatile. The best of both worlds, you
can sport curly hair one day and go straight the next.

All the while, whether curly or straight, your hair has
plenty of body, volume and bounce.

Whether or not you’ve had a home perm you should
refer to the “Simplistic Perms” chapter of this book for
instructions and information not given with a store
bought product.


Hair Cuts for Volume

Layers
One length hair is beautiful, but I’m sorry to say, if you
want volume, you won’t find it with this style. You don’t
have to go to extremes; a long layer will work giving
you added lift.


Adding Hair for Volume

Hair Extensions or Hair Pieces
It’s been awhile since you’ve had to be old and bald to
wear a hairpiece. Hairpieces and extensions are big.
All the celebs are wearing them and you can too.

They are affordable and come in tons of different colors
and styles. You can have a professional find an
Simplistic HairStyles                                  76


extension or hairpiece to match your own hair or you
can find your own almost anywhere.

Online is a good place to look and some drugstores sell
a variation of hairpieces. Also look in your local yellow
pages for “Salon Supply” stores (who sell the public).

Most beauty supply stores have professional
cosmetologist as employees. They can be very helpful
when choosing which product would be right for you.



Thick / Coarse Texture
Thick, coarse hair knows all its constitutional rights and
then some. It wants complete independence to go its
own stubborn way. What these lawless locks need is a
universal training program.

Thick, coarse hair comes in several varieties: floor
mop, dust mop, steel wool and wire brush. Obviously
the first thing to do is to know your opponent, then plan
your campaign accordingly.

The attack will take time, patience and imagination. But
once your hair has agreed to compromise and recog-
nize you as mistress of its new frontier, you will find you
have one quality silken haired ladies will never have,
superior body and resilience.
Simplistic HairStyles                                77


Thick hair, incidentally, is more apt to be your problem
if you are a redhead. Blonde hair usually comes in the
finest denier and brunette in medium.


Thick, Straight and Coarse
This hair responds to skillful cutting, constant
conditioning, and just the suggestion of a permanent to
make it more malleable.

Run, do not walk to the nearest and best stylist. Your
temptation may be to beg him to thin it, and thin it, and
thin it again. Resist. Coarse hair should be reduced in
bulk not by pruning but by tricky tapering and layering.
Excessive weeding will make your hair bounce up into
bush formation.

Once you do get your hair into a sleek shape, make
every effort to keep it streamlined. Coarse thick hair
grows faster than weeds. Never skip a trimming
appointment. And speaking of trimming, be meticulous
about keeping eyebrows well groomed.

If your hair boasts no natural wave, invest in a good
permanent or rather the hint of a suggestion of one.
Coarse hair takes to perm solution like a dog to a bone.
Just enough wave to make your hair controllable is all
you really need.

Your hairstylist will probably suggest a short hairstyle,
depending, of course, on facial structure. Too coarse,
Simplistic HairStyles                                 78


too thick, too long hair is too heavy to handle. Short but
not too short or else it would be wiry is the most
manageable length.

Now, sit back and enjoy what is good about coarse
hair. It not only takes a good permanent, it takes an
excellent setting and is probably the healthiest of all
hair. Combing, you have no doubt long since noticed,
does next to nothing for your hair.


Thick, Coarse, and Curly
You're a human dust mop. Adopt a short, soft hairstyle.
Indulge in deep conditioning treatments and shampoos
for dry hair. Rub conditioners into hair ends. Use
pomade while still damp and put up on large rollers or
allow drying naturally and then apply a liquid or spray
shine as a final touch.


Wiry Hair
Don't fight coarse, straight hair. Work with it. The less
you have the better. Have an expert cut and shape it.
Use pomade while still damp and put up on large
rollers or allow drying naturally and then apply a liquid
or spray shine as a final touch.


Kinky, Exceptionally Coarse and Curly
Consider seriously the advantages of having hair
straightened.
Simplistic HairStyles                              79


Do…

√ Use a moisturizing shampoo (determined by the
  condition of your hair) that contains humectants.
√ Avoid using overly hot dryers as well as any other
  heat producing styling appliance.
√ Wear a hat or scarf if you're going to be exposed to
  sun or wind for a long time. Also use hair care
  products containing a UV sunscreen.
√ Use a deep conditioning treatment once a week.
√ Let your hair dry naturally. Blow drying will cause
  “volume”. And generally, thick hair has just enough
  volume naturally without adding to it.
√ Wash and dry (this is the only exception for the
  blow dryer) your hair before you go to bed. This
  gives your natural oils time to work, smoothing your
  hair for the morning.
√ Have your hair thinned with thinning shears when
  you have it cut. But do not over do it! A light
  thinning will give the best results.
√ Use a “molding” product on your hair when it’s dry.


Don’t…

√ Use leave-in conditioners which lead to the
  appearance of dry, dull hair.
√ Wash your hair every day. Rather every 3 – 4 days.
Simplistic HairStyles                                80


√ Chemically process your hair unless you know for a
  fact it won’t ruin your hair.



Natural Curl
Straight haired women may envy the girl with the really
curly hair, but if they only knew the price you ringlet
beauties have to pay.

Each rebellious lock goes its separate way. When the
temperature humidity index soars you can barely run a
comb through the snarls.

When it plummets you are sure your head could double
as an emergency transmitter in an electric power
breakdown. And when you've been foolish in the sun
your hair becomes "a sea of desert."

But you do have one of the greatest of all hair bless-
ings body and with this all kinds of beautiful things are
possible.

Actually, there are many types of curly hair:


Slightly Wavy
Nature has given your hair a soft body wave which is
perfect for current styles that are more line than curl.
Simplistic HairStyles                                     81


Strongly Wavy
While some experts deplore perming curly hair, others
recommend a light permanent on large rollers to widen
the waves for styling and to slightly curl straight ends, if
you happen to have them.


Slightly Curly
This is ideal. You can achieve wonderful results by
simply setting with large rollers.

More Than Slightly Curly: Some hair stylists
recommend straightening with a permanent wave
solution. Others recommend using a straightening
cream, which they believe is more effective because it
is more manageable.


Frizzy
Most hair stylists       recommend       control   with    a
straightening cream.

But before you decide on the straight and narrow path
for your hair, make a date with a good stylist. For
women with too much of a good thing, some hairstylists
recommend appealing to gravity with longer hair.
Others just as staunchly defend the shorter look,
pointing out that longer hair can get completely out of
control.

Just about the kindest cut of all, according to a census
of top stylists, is the blunt cut. Tapering encourages
Simplistic HairStyles                                  82


curl, as we've seen with straight hair.

Curly hair should not be cut quite as short as straight
hair. Cut too short, it tends to bounce up and away.

Banish an unattractive arid look with regular deep
conditioning treatments. Always use a shampoo for dry
hair. Follow with a conditioner to add extra softness
and manageability.

If nature has given your hair a pleasing natural pattern
as well as curl, take your cue from her. If not, style hair
in a direction opposite to that of your natural curl.

Both moisture and heat are natural enemies of curly
hair. All hair is hygroscopic, but curly hair is especially
thirsty for moisture. Wear two bathing caps when you
go swimming. Always carry a tiny, folding rain hat. And
avoid hot, steamy showers.

Keep curly hair out of the sun as much as possible.
One reckless day of exposure may have to be paid for
by weeks of conditioning.

And as if you didn't have enough problems already,
coloring hair which is either medium or tightly curled is
best when limited to temporary or longer lasting rinses
for permanent haircolor makes hair even dryer, fuzzy
and even more unmanageable.

For the most part, the care for naturally curly hair is the
Simplistic HairStyles                                83


same as for coarse hair. However, there are some
tricks that apply to natural curl only.

Do…

√ Use a diffuser attachment when drying your hair.
√ Use a moisturizing shampoo (determined by the
  condition of your hair) that contains humectants.
√ Avoid using overly hot dryers as well as any other
  heat producing styling appliance.
√ Wear a hat or scarf if you're going to be exposed to
  sun or wind for a long time. Also use hair care
  products containing a UV sunscreen.
√ Use a deep conditioning treatment once a week.


Don’t…

√ Use leave-in conditioners which lead to the
  appearance of dry, dull hair.
√ Wash your hair every day. Rather every 3 – 4 days
  (longer if you can stand it).
√ Chemically process your hair unless you know for a
  fact it won’t ruin your hair.
√ Work with your curls by using a blow dryer with a
  diffuser. The diffuser prevents natural curl from
  being “whipped” around by the air from the dryer
  thus causing fly away, frizzy hair. It instead uses
  just the heat from the dryer to dry your curls nicely.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  84


√ Use a styling aid such as pomade, gel or mousse.
  How do you choose which product is right for your
  hair? The more thick or coarse your hair, the
  stronger hold you need.

    Note: Use products that are “humidity” proof.

√ Keep your hair trimmed on a regular basis.
  Naturally curly hair splits easily. Keep your hair in
  long layers for a “bouncy” curl effect or one length
  for a “wavy” effect.
√ Never brush your hair. Your fingers or a wide tooth
  pick will do the trick.


Products to Use
Coarse hair does not need to be shampooed on a daily
basis. The recommended amount of times you
shampoo will solely depend on your personal
preference and familiarity with your own hair (how long
you can get away without shampooing), the longer, the
better.

Use products with asiliconeserum (silicone) to smooth
and fill in the open cuticle of your hair strand. This will
also seal in moisture and add shine


Shampoo

Moisturizing Shampoo
Simplistic HairStyles                                 85


Contains at least one conditioning agent to add
moisture and add shine, making the hair smooth.

Color or Highlighted Shampoo
These shampoos are designed to enhance or enrich
the color of your hair whether it is your natural color or
color treated hair. They are slightly pigmented and are
a gradual process. Look for a shampoo that is also
moisturizing.

Chemically Treated Shampoo
These shampoos are for colored, permed, highlighted,
bleached and chemically straitened hair. These
shampoos contain ingredients to moisturize and
strengthen hair that is weakened by a chemical
process.

Clarifying Shampoo
These shampoos are formulated to clarify the hair of
pollution, chlorine and Styling Products. Do not use on
a daily basis but rather two to four times a month.

Conditioner
If you have coarse hair you need a conditioner that
contains humectants and adds moisture to dry hair.
Use this type of conditioner on a daily basis.

You should deep condition on a weekly basis with a
rich, moisturizing conditioner formulated for your hair
type, to replenish or add the extra moisture your hair
Simplistic HairStyles                                    86


lacks.

If your hair is also brittle, you should use a masked
formulated for your hair type, about two times a month.


Styling Products

Hair Spray
Select a spray by the desired amount of hold. To
increase shine or subdue frizz - use accordingly

Pomades, Glossers and Shiners
Apply them…SPARINGLY! Liquefy the product
between your palms and smooth it over the surface

Waxes
Rub between the palms of your hands then apply to all
of your hair or just “spot” apply where you want more
definition i.e. sideburns, lift roots straight up for spiking


How to Style Your Hair
The key to shinny, coarse hair or hair with natural curl
is healthy hair. To achieve and maintain healthy hair do
the following:

    Do not over do it with your Styling Products! Too
    much may make your hair lifeless and appear dull.
    Allow your hair to completely or almost completely
    dry naturally before styling it. The less heat the
Simplistic HairStyles                                  87


    better. Hold the dryer about six inches away from
    your head, keeping the dryer moving at all times.
    The blow dryer should not stay in one spot for more
    than a few seconds.
    Dry your hair from the scalp – down. This allows the
    cuticle to lay flat which makes your hair shinny and
    smooth.
    After you’ve dried your hair, follow up with the “cool”
    shot button for about three minutes. Once again
    from the scalp – down. Cool air will smooth the
    cuticle also.
    Once your hair is dry, follow up with a silicone
    based product. The size of a pea should do unless
    you have short hair then use a little less.
    Note: Use products that are “humid” resistant.
    Keep those split ends at bay by having your ends
    trimmed at least every 8 weeks.
    If you do use heated appliances, ALWAYS use
    styling products that do not allow the heat to
    penetrate your hair before you style.

Using hot appliances is a double edged sword. On one
side, coarse hair or hair with natural wave/curl
damages easily. On the other, heat also aids in
smoothing the rough cuticles of this hair type, leaving
the hair smooth and appearing shinny.

So what’s a person to do? Treat your hair and your
Simplistic HairStyles                               88


choice for styling it with “velvet gloves”, meaning take
every precaution necessary to prevent further damage
to your hair.

Skip the blow dryer when you know you’ll be using
these appliances. Apply products that prevent heat
from penetrating your hair strands. Be strict about your
conditioning regimen. And use all the knowledge
you’ve gained from this book for the care of your hair.

When using a brush to style your hair, natural bristles
create less friction and stress on the hair and they
distribute sebum, the hair's natural conditioner, down
the hair shaft which adds shine.


Using Hot Appliances

Hair Brush and Blow Dryer
While blow drying your hair, use a brush with wide
spaced and staggered rows of pins to enable the brush
to slip through the hair more easily. Round brushes are
not recommended. Instead use vent, semi round or
paddle brushes.

A paddle brush used on a 90 degree angle will
straighten while drying.

Concentrate the air flow on the roots then work your
way down the rest of the hair.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 89


Stop here. If you like the way your hair looks there is no
need to go any farther. However, in most cases with
this type hair, you’ll need to follow up with a curling or
flat iron or hot rollers to smooth this hair type. Finish
with a spritz of shine.


Non Heat Rollers
Because of the popularity of soft, voluminous hairstyles
which emphasize line as well as curl, rollers have be-
come more and more popular with hair stylists.
To duplicate their flattering results, there are several
setting rules the do it yourselfer should follow.

Wind hair on rollers as firmly as you can, for a set that
will hold its shape longer.

Comb hair as smooth as possible. For best results, hair
should be flat on the roller, not bunched up.

Comb each strand straight out from the scalp and
slanted slightly away from the direction in which you
wind it.

Make each section of hair to be rolled slightly narrower
than the length of each roller and about an inch deep.
Never use more hair than the roller can hold securely.

Secure each roller as directed depending on what type
of roller you use. Each roller should be as close as
Simplistic HairStyles                                   90


possible to the next one for definite curls (some stylists’
clip the ends of neighboring rollers together so there
will be no intentional breaks between strands of hair
when the style is brushed out.

Another way to avoid these breaks is to stagger the
position of rollers slightly, so that rollers are not set in
straight lines but form a modified brick wall pattern) or
as far away from the next one for just volume.


Hot Rollers
The best place to start is with completely dry hair.
Never use hot appliances even on damp hair. When
hair is damp it is extremely vulnerable to damage.

Take 1” thick by 2” to 3” wide sections. Lightly spray
your hair with hair spray before rolling.

Depending on what type of style you’re going for will
determine which method or rolling technique you’ll use.

Just volume
Roll only underneath the top crown layer of your hair.

Barely a curl
Use rollers big enough to go around each section of
hair only once no more than one and a half times. Roll
the whole head or every other section of hair.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 91


Bouncy curls
Rollers should go around each section of hair at least
two times. Put the hot rollers in the direction you want
your hair to style.

Mid to end curl with a flat crown
Roll the rollers only halfway up each strand of hair, and
then secure.

No matter which type of curl you choose, follow the
steps below before removing the rollers.

Tips:
•  Gently remove the rollers only when they have cooled.
   The fact is, the longer you leave the curlers in your
   hair the longer the curl will last.

•   Immediately after removing all the rollers, give your
    hair a shot of cold air with your blow dryer. The cold
    shot will help set the style.
•   End by shaking, finger placing, or brushing your hair
    the way you want it to lay, then apply a styling gel
    (only after you’ve rubbed it between your fingers) or
    hairspray.


Curling Iron
Curling irons are extremely versatile. From adding tons
of curl to your hair to adding just volume you can
achieve the look you’re “looking” for.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 92


Choosing the appropriate size iron:

•   For more curl, make sure you are using an iron with
    less than a 1” barrel.
•   For less curl and more body, use an iron with a
    barrel bigger than 1”.
•   For just wave or body, use an iron with a 2” barrel.

Straightening Iron
Use only as much heat as necessary to straighten the
hair. Fine / Thin hair require less heat than Thick /
Coarse hair.

Make small partings no longer than half the size of the
base of the flat iron itself and then comb to detangle.
The smaller the partings, the nicer and straighter your
sections will be. Next, use a slow pulling motion from
scalp to ends to get a smoothing, silkening effect.

To achieve a bend in your hair whether it is at the
crown or on the ends, slightly twist the iron, and bend
the hair in the iron. Hold for a second or two then begin
slowly moving down the hair shaft again.



Grey Hair
"Only the good dye young." A famous actress said
turning a cliché when asked why she prefers to polish
Simplistic HairStyles                                  93


her silvery locks rather than to bleach or color.

But, it's the rare stylist who would agree with the
popular actress. Most believe there are few mature
women with faces youthful enough to carry gray or
white hair.

And come to think of it, they do have a point.


Too Young To Go Gray?
Even though everyone knows you are in your twenties,
you don't want to be the only gray head among your
peers. Hide uninvited gray hair with a long lasting (one
month) rinse especially designed to bury gray. It adds
highlights and conditions, but does not leave brassy top
notes.


Approaching Forty, But You Want To Keep
Your Age Secret?
Color your hair at least two shades lighter for flattery as
well as anti gray security. Fading hair and eyes require
a softer background.

Color lighter whether you're dark haired and going gray
dramatically, or blonde and going gray in the dullest of
all possible fashions.


Going To Let Nature Take Its Course?
Just because your hair is graying is no reason to let it
Simplistic HairStyles                                  94


go dowdy, too. There's no need for depressing gray
heads anymore, thanks to modern styling and the wide
spectrum of gray glamorizing rinses.



Style
Rome had a glorious Silver Age. So can you.
Inaugurate it with a new style. Don't coast along on the
same old hairstyle you've been wearing for years.

Keep it short. Long hair automatically draws eyes down
to the wrinkles you've acquired along with your
character lines. Keep eyes up by wearing hair up and
away from the neck. Concentrate on soft, eyelevel
fullness. Create eye catching attention above the brow
with height, bangs or soft tendrils. Cheek waves also
seem to raise the jaw line.
Keep it simple. Avoid elaborate, hard to keep styles.
Beware harsh lines. Gray hair should depend on soft
lines for effect rather than curl. Banish frizz. And stress
grooming more than you ever have before.

Curls should be soft tendrils rather than masses of
ringlets. Delicate open curls turned toward the face
minimize age lines.

Age cuts are passé. Your face, not your chronology,
should determine your hairstyle. But do avoid the long-
haired pageboy of your youth which looks ludicrous
after the early twenties. And skintight hairstyles are just
Simplistic HairStyles                                   95


about the worst of all. Mature faces need more
softness.



Permanents
You'll need a body perm whether your hair is coarse or
fine. Straggling curls pull the eye down. If you are a do
it yourselfer, select a home permanent for gray or white
hair to avoid the danger of yellowing.



Shampoos
Color is not all that changes as hair matures. Texture
changes too. First white hairs are usually coarse and
wiry, becoming, in many cases, after the passage of
years, soft and silky.

Pamper coarse white hair with deep conditioning
treatments, gentle shampoos, and light conditioners.

Handle fine white hair as you would any fine hair: body
perm, short layered coif to create the illusion of luxury,
and, in this case, an iridescent silver rinse to further the
illusion of shadow and substance.

Remember, if your hair was dark before it went silvery,
gray and white hair must be shampooed more often.
Use special shampoos designed for your new light
Simplistic HairStyles                              96


shade.



Conditioning
There has also been a decrease in your hair's natural
oil supply so condition with deep conditioners
frequently and light conditioners with every shampoo.

Avoid drying effects of sprays and overexposure to sun
and salt water.



Rinses
Sun, too many permanents and the wrong shampoo
can put yellow if not gold in your hair. Yellow can be
disguised with rinses and shampoo especially designed
for grey or white hair.
Simplistic HairStyles                                97



                             Chapter Five:
    Specialty Hair Styling Techniques

____________________________________________

Updos/Formal Styles
Braids
____________________________________________



Most of the following hairstyles don’t require special
tools or accessories to create. In fact, you’ll probably
find most of what you need already in your home. If you
don’t, you’ll find most if not all at your local discount
store.



Supplies Needed:
Hair pins
Barrettes
Elastic bands
Combs (both flat and long-tailed)
Water bottle
Hair spray
Gel / Mousse
Simplistic HairStyles                                   98


Updos / Formal Styles
The French Twist
Best performed on medium length hair

The French Twist is a classy, ageless style and one of
the simplest formal styles to create.

1. Start by brushing and then gathering your hair in a
   low ponytail. Do NOT use a band to hold in place.
2. Begin twisting the ponytail (the direction doesn’t
   matter, but continue in the same direction
   throughout the twist).
3. Begin lifting your ponytail up towards the crown all
   the while twisting to create a roll.
4. When you’ve reached the crown, tuck any
   remaining hair back into the roll, and pin.
5. Secure the roll with several pins going down the
   length of the roll.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 99


The Demi Twist
Best performed on medium length hair

Similar to The French Twist but with a “twist”, this style
is also classy.

1. Start by brushing and then gathering your hair in a
   low ponytail.
2. Begin twisting the ponytail (the direction doesn’t
   matter, but continue in the same direction
   throughout the twist).
3. Begin lifting your ponytail up towards the crown all
   the while twisting to create a roll.
4. When you’ve reached the crown, allow all remaining
   (untwisted) hair to remain un-tucked.
5. Secure the roll with several pins going down the
   length of the roll.
6. Place the un-tucked hair in the direction you want it
   to lay. (When curled, the un-tucked hair makes for
   an elegant style, when left straight, this style looks
   more casual).
Simplistic HairStyles                                100


Flip Through Ponytail
Best performed on medium length hair

It’s amazing how elegant this style appears once
you’ve learned how it’s created. You can dress it up
even more by adding baby’s breath or ribbon.

1. Start by brushing and then gathering your hair in a
   high, loose ponytail.
2. Part your hair, starting in the crown all the way
   down to the nape of your neck.
3. Slightly separate the part and then flip your ponytail
   through.
4. Once it’s through the part, grab and gently pull the
   ponytail down.
5. Comb your hair at the separation to blend both
   sides together.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 101


The Elegant Gibson
Best performed on medium length hair

1. Start by brushing and then gathering your hair in a
   high, loose ponytail.
2. Gently pull your hair apart above the elastic band to
   create a "pocket." Flip the ponytail up and tuck it
   inside the pocket. Distribute evenly.
3. Hide the elastic band by pushing it into the pocket
   as well.
4. Carefully comb where needed to smooth the style.
5. Use a pin, barrette or hair sticks to secure the style.
Simplistic HairStyles                                102


The Double Roll
Best performed on medium length hair

1. Pick up a section of hair at your temple and twist it
   up.
2. Hold that section with your left hand and then add
   your next section of hair as you move toward the
   nape of your head, twisting as you go.
3. Give each section a few twists before moving on to
   the next section. Continue this process until you’ve
   gathered all the hair on that side, give it a few more
   twists then repeat the same process on the other
   side.
4. Once both sides are twisted, secure all your hair in
   a barrette or elastic band. Insert hair accessories to
   add a touch of elegance. (Your hair may need a few
   Bobby pins to hold this style in place).
Simplistic HairStyles                               103


The Double Roll Braided
Best performed on medium length hair

1. Pick up a section of hair at your temple and twist it
   up.
2. Hold that section with your left hand and then add
   your next section of hair as you move toward the
   nape of your head, twisting as you go.
3. Give each section a few twists. Continue this
   process until you’ve gathered all the hair on that
   side, give it a few more twists then repeat the same
   process on the other side.
4. Once both sides are twisted, secure all your hair in
   a barrette or elastic band.
Simplistic HairStyles                             104


The Bun

1. Gather all your hair in a high to low ponytail
   depending on where you want the bun to sit.
   Depending on your hair, you may or may not want
   to secure with an elastic band.
2. Twist the entire ponytail and then coil the twisted
   hair around itself.
3. Tuck any remaining hair under the bun and secure
   with pins as needed depending on the thickness of
   your hair.




The Braided Bun

1. Gather all your hair in a high to low ponytail
   depending on where you want the braid to sit.
   Depending on your hair, you may or may not want
   to secure with an elastic band.
2. Basic braid the ponytail.
3. Coil the braided hair around itself.
4. Tuck any remaining hair under the bun and secure
   with pins as needed depending on the thickness of
   your hair.
Simplistic HairStyles                                    105



Braids
Tips:
•   For tight braids, braid hair while it’s wet. For loose
    braids, braid hair while it’s dry.
•   As you braid, slightly pull down on the hair.
•   Braid as tightly as you can.
•   Be patient. Braiding is an art and takes practice.
•   Taking wide strands of hair creates a more casual
    look. Taking thin strands creates a more formal look.
•   Be consistent with the amount of hair you use for
    each strand of hair throughout the braid.


The Basic Braid

1. Divide your hair into three sections.
2. Cross the right strand over the center strand.
3. Then cross the left strand over the center strand.
4. Continue the process alternating the left and right
   sections over the center section until your braid is
   as long as you want it to be.
5. Secure with an elastic band.
Simplistic HairStyles                                106


The French Braid

Add a styling product to hair to smooth flyaway’s and
make hair easier to braid.



1. Divide a small section of hair where you want the
   braid to start into three even sections. Comb each
   section smooth.

2. Make one basic braid.

3. Holding the braid in your right hand pull a new
   strand of hair from over your left ear towards the
   ponytail then add it to the left strand of hair you’re
   holding in your right hand.

4. Cross the left strand of hair over the center strand.
   (Now the center strand is your left strand).

5. Now you’ll be holding the braid in your left hand.
   Pull a new strand of hair from over your right ear
   towards the ponytail and then add it to the right
   strand of hair you’re holding in your left hand.

6. Cross the right strand of hair over the center strand.
   (Now the center strand is your right strand).

7. Continue gathering hair from the left and right and
   adding it to the strands just before you cross them
Simplistic HairStyles                              107


    over the center until you’ve gathered all your hair
    into the braid.

8. (Optional) You may stop at this point by securing
   with an elastic band at the base of the neck or you
   can continue braiding using the basic braid method
   then secure.
Simplistic HairStyles                                108


The Dutch Braid

Add a styling product to hair to smooth flyaway’s and
make hair easier to braid.

Note:
The steps are the same as for The French Braid however,
instead of crossing the strands added with hair over, you
cross them under.



1. Divide a small section of hair where you want the
   braid to start into three even sections. Comb each
   section smooth.

2. Make one basic braid.

3. Holding the braid in your right hand pull a new
   strand of hair from over your left ear towards the
   ponytail then add it to the left strand of hair you’re
   holding in your right hand.

4. Cross the left strand of hair under the center strand.
   (Now the center strand is your left strand).

5. Now you’ll be holding the braid in your left hand.
   Pull a new strand of hair from over your right ear
   towards the ponytail and then add it to the right
   strand of hair you’re holding in your left hand.
Simplistic HairStyles                               109


6. Cross the right strand of hair under the center
   strand. (Now the center strand is your right strand).

7. Continue gathering hair from the left and right and
   adding it to the strands just before you cross them
   under the center until you’ve gathered all your hair
   into the braid.

8. (Optional) You may stop at this point by securing
   with an elastic band at the base of the neck or you
   can continue braiding using the basic braid method
   then secure.
Simplistic HairStyles                               110


The Herringbone Braid

1. Divide a small section of hair where you want the
   braid to start into two even sections.

2. Pull a thin strand of hair from under the left side.
   Wrap it around and over the left section of hair, and
   then add it to the right section.

3. Pull a thin strand of hair from under the right side.
   Wrap it around and over this section and add it to
   the left section of hair.

4. Repeat until the braid is as long as you want it.
   Secure with an elastic band.
Simplistic HairStyles                               111


The Rope Braid

1. Start with a ponytail that you’ve divided into three
   even sections. Twist the right section of hair to the
   right. Cross it over both of the other strands.

2. Repeat, always twisting the right to the right and
   crossing it over the other two strands. Secure with
   an elastic band.
Simplistic HairStyles   112
Simplistic HairStyles                                113



                               Chapter Six:
    “Try Before You Buy” HairStyle?


Virtual HairStyling

Virtual hairstyling has fast become one of the hottest
salon and online products today. Why? You can
actually see how a hairstyle looks on you before you go
to the salon.

Before virtual hairstyling the only way to do this was to
try to re-create the style yourself at home (with not a
clue where to start) or go to a salon, pay money, and
hope for the best. And if it didn't turn out the way you
hoped, what would you do? Tell your stylist...

"This doesn’t look like I thought it would. Can you start
over?”

Trust me when I tell you, should you try this approach, I
guarantee you're not going to like any hairstyle she
creates on you! Even if the new choice, (under different
circumstances), would have looked great.

What about changing the color of your hair? This can
be a scary step for even the most adventurous person.
I mean, we're talking about a chemical process that
can't be changed with the snap of a finger.
Simplistic HairStyles                                114


Or deciding on a new hair cut? Whoa... now that's
scary. I mean, hair does grown back but at what seems
like a snails pace when you hate your hair cut!

"Going virtual" allows you to decide what cut you'll love
without one single strand of hair taken, moved or
touched on your head.

Do you wear glasses or have a unique feature? Virtual
Hairstyling works with whatever it is that may change
the way a hairstyle looks on you by allowing you to
"view before you do".


How it works…
Depending on whose software you choose to use will
depend on what you can do with virtual hairstyling.
However, most have the same first step and that is to:

Up load a photo of yourself (per their specifications) or
use one of their models who have a similar face shape
and facial features as your own.

After uploading and tweaking your picture it’s off to the
virtual salon. With over thousands of pictures to
choose, you can try on any hairstyle: Very Short, Short,
Medium, Long, Updos, Braids, Bridal, Celebrities, Men,
and Children.

Want to change the color of your hair? Pick, click,
done. View yourself in blonde, red, black, purple (hey,
Simplistic HairStyles                                115


to each his own) highlights, lowlights - the choices are
endless.

Once you’ve found the hairstyle that best suits you,
save and print for your professional stylist to recreate,
only this time “real” not virtual.

Some of these virtual software programs even come
equipped to “apply” make-up, accessorize, allow you to
see yourself in colored contacts or whiter teeth and are
in 3 D!

A phenomenal break through for both the Hair Industry
and the World Wide Web with all benefits pointing to
you.

This example of how virtual hairstyling works is
courtesy of Hairstyles, Cuts, and Dos http://www.hair-
styles-cuts-and-dos.com/




Step One:

Upload of photo of yourself to
their virtual software.
(It’s easy!)
Simplistic HairStyles       116


Step Two:

Try on thousands
(time permitting) of
hairstyles.




Example of styles:




It’s easy, it’s fun, it’s
affordable and it takes
the fear out of the
unknown.
Simplistic HairStyles                              117



                           Chapter Seven:
                        Complicated Coiffures
____________________________________________

Complicated Coiffures
General Hair Care Do’s and Don’ts
One: Problem Hair
Two: Snafus
____________________________________________




Complicated coifs can be a result of our own neglect,
lack of know how, or Mother Nature stopping by just to
test our patience (I mean water our flowers and
trees☺). Either way, there are quick fixes you can use
to turn your hair around from complicated to compliant.



General Hair Care Do’s and Don’ts

√ Do towel or air dry your hair as much as possible
  before blowing dry no matter what your hair type.
√ Do comb, brush and dry from the roots down; this
  will prevent breakage.
√ Do deep condition your hair one week before
Simplistic HairStyles                                 118


    coloring or perming no matter what your hair type.
√ Don’t hold the blow dryer too close to your hair
  while drying.
√ Don’t finish your style with too much hairspray
  unless that particular style calls for it (mainly formal
  styles and updos.



One: Problem Hair
Oily Hair
You have bright, shiny, please touch me hair for only
the briefest moments in your life…immediately after
each shampoo!

Then the Texas geysers nature put in your hair
disguised as sebaceous glands start gushing. In two or
three days you're a twenty first century Medusa. Your
beautiful hair hangs in snakelike strings down to your
shoulders.

Your roots turn dark almost overnight. You feel
uncomfortably greasy from the hairline up. And hat
bands and neck lines drawn incautiously over oily hair
are constantly threatening to shout your problem to the
world. You're dandruff prone. And ever since you were
a teen you can remember fighting the battle of the
bumps and blemishes.
Simplistic HairStyles                                      119


Oily hair is a little bit more difficult to treat than dry hair.
Loose muscled oil glands are directly responsible for
your free flowing condition. But the underlying cause,
the root of your problem, could be one of several:
improper diet (too many fatty foods have gone to your
head), tension, or poor general health.

If your bothersome condition persists despite a fresh
fruit, fresh air and fresh vegetable routine which would
qualify you as American Health Queen, see your phy-
sician.

Fortunately, the solution is often as simple as a well
balanced diet, which will also work wonders for your
complexion.

Oil seeping down from your scalp can produce
blackheads. And once bacteria set up housekeeping in
one of these plugged sacs the next thing you know
there's a pimple.

It's a good idea to keep oily hair under cover at night.
But be sure the frilly cap you select is made of a fairly
porous material so your scalp will be able to breathe.

Oily hair goes out of its way to trap dust and grime.
Shampoo frequently, every day, if necessary. And
because your hair is in the water so often, it is wisest to
adopt a simple to manage style.

Choose an especially blended shampoo for oily hair.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  120


Sometimes, working a liquid shampoo through dry hair
before actually dunking your head under water is a
help.

Rinse hair thoroughly after your wet shampoo, then
rinse and rinse once more for good luck.

Any remaining cleanser can irritate the scalp and cause
oiliness to increase. Don't stop rinsing until hair is soap
free.

Finish with a vinegar or lemon rinse. Prepare by
measuring a half cup of vinegar or the strained juice of
two lemons to a quart of warm water. Rinse again with
clear water to avoid any lingering lemon or vinegar
aroma.

Many experts believe vigorous brushing helps bring
your gushy condition under control because it improves
the general health of the scalp. Don't be alarmed if
brushing aggravates your condition, initially.

Between shampoos, blot up excess oil by wrapping
your hairbrush in an old nylon stocking or a piece of lint
free cloth.

Brush long and vigorously, changing position of the
cloth as it becomes soiled. Wipe brush on a terry towel
to remove excess oil each time you brush. This special
towel, brushes and comb should be washed whenever
you shampoo.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 121


On days when hair is especially oily, but it is impossible
to shampoo, you'll find you can improve manageability
by vigorously rubbing scalp with a terry towel before
brushing and combing and or apply and rub in some
type of talcum powder.


Dry Hair
If it's any consolation, more American women have dry
hair than oily hair, curly hair, or even cowlicks. You are
not alone. Some women come by this lusterless state
naturally.

Others work long and hard at acquiring tinder wood
hair. They painstakingly broil it in the summer, bake it
in steam heated houses in winter, change hair color
with every season, refuse to read home permanent
directions, go on and off fad diets and never lift a hair
brush.

Is your hair dull and listless? Does it stick out in
porcupine quills? Resist curl? Look like hay and feel
like straw? Does your scalp feel tight and itchy? Are
unattractive flakes and bits of broken hair a shoulder
problem? You have dry hair.

Perhaps your only fault lies in starving your tresses as
well as your tummy. True hair beauty begins inside. If
you've been on strenuous seaweed or bananas only
diet and just noticed dry hair symptoms, your diet is
probably to blame.
Simplistic HairStyles                                122


Try brushing which carries oil down the whole length of
your hair to its brittle ends. A brush with a medium hard
bristle is best for you.

Begin a massage program, too. Starting at the nape of
your neck, use simultaneous clockwise and
counterclockwise circles with your middle fingers.
Continue until you've covered your entire scalp and you
can almost hear the blood tingling.

Shampoo time should never be hit or miss. Make it a
ritual every five to seven days. Select your shampoo
carefully. Avoid soaps which could leave a dulling film
in hard water, and detergent shampoos which tend to
remove some natural oils as well as dirt and grime.

Before each or every other shampoo give yourself a
hair silkening deep conditioning treatment.

Still more tips for the girl with parchment hair: Take
advantage of all products specially formulated for dry
hair. And always protect yourself from sun. Rinse salt,
sand and chlorine out of your hair the instant you return
from sun or swimming.


Straight Hair

Only a matter of heredity and a straight rather than a
coiled hair follicle deep in your scalp lie between you
and your lifelong ideal, natural curl. Whether you're
Simplistic HairStyles                                 123


aware of it or not, many curly haired women would
swap follicles with you any day.

Fine, straight hair should be blunt cut to produce the
illusion of body. And have it cut often. Straight hair
tends to grow in a most uneven fashion.

Actually, if your fine hair is thick as well as straight
and medium long, it may be worn in many ways;
draped, twisted, swirled. But if you prefer to wear it
down, just don't let it hang there. Hair must be shaped
to fit your features.

Limp hair which has gone too long without a shaping
may not even keep a style.

Straight hair also needs a light body permanent,
especially if it is thin and far from luxurious. Follow up
every shampoo with a conditioner on the ends only.
And finish with a protein enriched hair spray to
suppress flyaway tendencies.

If your hair is limp as well as vertical, never let your-
self be given more than the gentlest body permanent
and concentrate on the beautiful possibilities of well
shaped, almost straight hair polished to the nth degree.


Dandruff
The body is constantly renewing itself, and one of the
many ways it does this is by shedding the top layer of
Simplistic HairStyles                                   124


skin. The scalp is no exception.

On a healthy scalp, this endless renewal process goes
almost unnoticed. The small, fine, horny scales are
readily removed by faithful brushing and combing.

But when flaking becomes conspicuous, this means the
normal shedding or keratinization process has become
unbalanced. You have dandruff.

Poor circulation, improper diet, strong soaps, injury,
infection, nervous tension, sex hormones and fungi
have all been named as causative factors.

But no matter what the reason, this much is definite:

When it occurs, the normal acid balance of the skin is
disturbed and the scalp is left open to infection.

The normal flow of oil from the sebaceous glands has
also been interrupted.

Actually, there are two types of dandruff, dry and oily.


Dry Dandruff
Brush faithfully. Massage nightly. Eat wisely. Keep
scalp and hair clean. Avoid strong styling. If your
condition does not improve with healthier hair and sane
living habits, see your doctor. Baldness, some experts
say, more often follows dry dandruff than oily.
Simplistic HairStyles                              125


Oily Dandruff
Excess dandruff on an oily scalp can clog follicles and
make them an excellent breeding ground for bacteria or
fungi or both. Be careful of cutting scalp with comb or
brush, avoid drying Styling Products and be sure to see
your doctor.

Oily dandruff seems definitely related to endocrine
changes, and yet has such varying etiologic
possibilities as heredity, hypothyroidism, excess
ingestion of fats, carbohydrates or alcohol,
gastrointestinal disturbances, fatigue, poor personal
hygiene and emotional factors.

Cleanliness is the first step in all dandruff therapy.
Wash your hair as often as is necessary with the
shampoo you find most effective. Your doctor may
prescribe a mild ointment with or without resorcinol,
selenium sulfide or sulfur and salicylic acid. If your
doctor agrees, follow with a strained lemon juice or
vinegar rinse to insure the scalp's acidity.

Never borrow or lend a comb or brush. Clean both after
each shampoo in warm water, soap and ammonia.
Change your pillow case frequently. Keep curlers
clean.

Whisk a cloth soaked in mild disinfectant around your
hat and hair bands and your hair accessories, at
frequent intervals.
Simplistic HairStyles                                126


A diet heavy in carbohydrates and animal fat can over
activate the sebaceous glands and cause clinging
dandruff. Avoid chocolate, shellfish, carbonated
beverages, fried foods, alcohol, too many potatoes,
fatty meats and greasy fried foods.

Excessive dandruff also calls for a cut down in
smoking. Smoking contracts blood vessels and impairs
circulation in the scalp.


Sparse Hair
Your hairs are so few and far between your scalp
blushes in its immodesty? If your crowning glory has
been ever thus and you're in good health, there may be
nothing to worry about.

But if this is a new development, see your doctor and
discover what is going on inside that is retarding your
hair growth outside.

Discouraging as this may be, don't despair. With proper
diet and treatment, some of the most luxurious heads
of hair have developed from the most pathetic strands.

After you've seen your doctor, see an expert hair stylist
who can make the most of what you now have. By
blunt or semi blunt cutting each strand and trimming to
a short to medium length he can create an illusion of
fullness.
Simplistic HairStyles                                   127


He will recommend a body perm for line and life and
perhaps, a preconditioning treatment. As sparse hair
often is fragile hair, remember the finest permanent will
be the most economical in the long run.

Indulge in regular deep conditioning scalp treatments.
Shampoo often so soil and dirt won't drag your hairstyle
down. Clean gently with warm never hot water. And
don't scrub the scalp too energetically. Fluff, never rub,
hair dry. And, finally, set hair with light mousses and
plump rollers.

If all this falls short of the mark, indulge in fashionable
foolery and buy a hairpiece that blends so perfectly
even your mother would never suspect.


Stubborn Cowlicks
Man has conquered space and someday may even put
an end to war. But it's almost certain he never will
subdue the pesky cowlick.

A tendril of hair decides to stand up on its own two feet
instead of joining the rest of the wave, and that's the
way it's going to go. Nothing can alter its defiant
course.

Cutting the section will only make matters worse. Sticky
lotions may work but briefly. So if you can't lick 'em, join
'em. Seek the help of an expert stylist who will make
your perverse cowlick look like an integral part of the
Simplistic HairStyles                                    128


overall plan.

But realize that the number of hairstyles you can wear
is necessarily limited. If the lines of a style don't go the
way your cowlick goes, it's the style, not the cowlick
that has to go.

Who knows, as a result of this added challenge he may
create something alluring.


Static
Your problem is you're too electrifying. You generate so
much electricity that when you're brushing your hair to
tweak the style here and there your hair jumps up to
meet your brush.

Don't shop for a chic lightning rod; you're in no
imminent danger. You're simply an everyday example
of one of the first principles of physics-opposite
charged bodies, negative and positive, your hair and
your comb or brush, attract.

More dramatic examples of atmospheric or static
electricity, as it is variously called, are lightning jumping
from one charged cloud to another, the shock you get if
you touch a metal object when wearing rubber soled
shoes (hospital nurses pushing stretchers note this
often), or the sparks emitted when you open a garment
bag, or stroke a cat under the right conditions.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 129


Not you but the atmosphere around you is at fault.
You'll notice your hair is more of a problem on dry, cold
days, than on warm, humid ones. Dry climates step up
the charge on your hair.

If you'd eliminate this positively electrifying problem,
don't be negative in your approach.

Stroke hair with the palms of your hands for a minute or
two before arranging. Body heat and moisture will tend
to reduce the responsible charges.

You'll find a natural bristle brush and a tortoise comb
especially gentling. And make the most of controlling
sprays and light conditioners.

Rub your hands, brush, or comb with just the tiniest
touch of pomade or shine cream before arranging.


Dull Hair
It can be a dull life with dull locks. No poet at least no
well known one has ever inscribed a verse to "Jeannie
with the mouse brown hair."

Yet even before the most flattering hair colors, most
prefer the healthy glow, the appealing naturalness, the
fresh sparkle of shining, well nourished, well polished
hair.

Lustrous hair, after all, is one of the most important
Simplistic HairStyles                                 130


parts of the glow of youth you hear so much about. So
why be a mouse?

Drab, lifeless, no highlights hair not only casts its dark
shadow over the brightest personality, it adds years to
the face of its owner.

What causes dull hair? It could be you're not eating the
right beauty foods: vitamin rich fresh fruits, green and
yellow vegetables, crisp salads and nourishing cereals.

It just may be that your problem is as simple as not
rinsing all the soap or shampoo out of your hair.

Soap and hard water tend to form a dulling residue.
Banish it with a tepid vinegar or lemon rinse, then
gallons of clear water. If you don't find it convenient to
go and catch falling rainwater, do the next best thing.
Dissolve a teaspoon of borax in a gallon of water.

Too much sun, too many color changes, and too strong
permanent wave solutions can also leave your hair dull
and lifeless. So how do you reverse the “dull do”?

Go easy on the chemical processes. Space them out
realistically.  Condition     frequently     alternating
reconstructive    conditioners     with    moisturizing
conditioners. Take time off on the days you have no
one to impress by not doing anything to your hair.

With a little time, your hair will find its way back to a
Simplistic HairStyles                               131


good place.


Drab Color
Whether natural or out of a box, freshen your color with
color enhancing shampoo’s or conditioners!

Reds and oranges are best to add warmth to medium
to dark tresses.

Yellows and blues work great on blonde hair. The
yellow will add very subtle gold hue and the blue will
remove any brassiness making it look like a crisper,
whiter blonde.


Sun Damaged Hair
The prevention of sun damaged hair begins with the
use of products containing SUV protection. If you are
beyond preventing sun damaged hair and need a
remedy follow these steps…
Apply a daily or leave in conditioner every time you
shampoo.

Until you get back to healthy hair, apply a deep
conditioner or hair mask to your hair 1 to 2 times a
week.

Now would be a good time for a trim or a haircut.

While you’re working on getting your hair back to a
healthy state do the following while spending time
Simplistic HairStyles                                  132


outdoors…

√ Wear a hat.
√ Use shampoos          and    conditioners    with   SUV
  protection.
√ Don’t over blow dry your hair. Summer’s the best
  time to let hair dry naturally.
√ If you’ll be swimming, rinse the chlorinated water
  out of your hair as soon as you get out of the pool.
  And the salt water as soon as you get out of the
  ocean.


Tips:
•   Use extra caution if your hair is colored. Begin
    prevention before there is damage.
•   Wet hair (with fresh water) before getting into a pool
    or salt water. (Wet hair absorbs less chlorine and salt
    water than dry).
•   Rinse your hair with fresh water immediately after
    getting out of chlorinated or salt water.
•   Start summer with preventive maintenance
•   Pull your hair back into a bun or ponytail before going
    out into the sun.


Swimmers Straw Hair
To battle swimmers hair, load your hair up with silicone
serums every time before going into the water
(chlorinated or salt). The silicone acts as a barrier
Simplistic HairStyles                                   133


between your hair and the water.


Swimmers Green Hair
If you have blonde hair and you swim a lot in
chlorinated water…watch out, you’re blonde locks
could turn green. Why?

First, it’s not the chlorine that turns your hair green, the
copper in the water does. If you are using an algaecide
that contains copper, quit!

Find an algaecide that contains polyquat. Check the
ingredients; if they start with the word “poly” and are
the sixty percent formula, you have the right stuff.


What should you do if your hair is already green?
Put two aspirin in a cup of warm water. Once dissolved,
pour it over your hair. Wait 10 minutes then rinse. This
should eliminate all of the green.

Apply a conditioner before swimming. Use a
de-chlorinator or clarifying shampoo after swimming.


Head Lice
I’ve got to tell you, any kind of bug gives me the willies
but a bug (or louse) that is living in your hair makes my
hair stand straight up on end.

Unfortunately you may need to know how to deal with
Simplistic HairStyles                                    134


it. So here we go…

There are generally no symptoms of head lice (maybe
an itchy scalp). However if you hear of or the school
sends home a note that there is an outbreak, check
every family members hair.


Two things to look for:

1. The bug which is very difficult to see. They move
   quickly, but if you do happen to get a glance they
   will look very similar to a gnat.

2. The “nit” or eggs while lighter in color than dandruff,
   it may still be mistaken for dandruff. To tell the
   difference, use your fingernails and try scraping the
   egg/dandruff off of the hair shaft. If it is hard to
   move or doesn’t move at all, it is the nit of a louse.



How to treat it…
First of all, no product currently available kills all of the
eggs. However, you DO still need to purchase a
product for removal.

As far as using the product, follow the instructions
included in the box.
Simplistic HairStyles                              135


Note:
To find out more about lice and to find a product which
will suit your needs go to http://www.headliceinfo.com/



Beyond using a louse/nit removal product there are
other steps that MUST be taken to ensure every louse
and nit is killed to prevent re-infestation.

√ Change the bedclothes of EVERY bed in your
  house. Wash in HOT water.
√ Disinfect all combs, brushes or any other hair
  accessory in your home by soaking in a
  disinfectant.
√ Put all ball caps, or any head garments for that
  matter including head bands, scarves, etc. that
  have been worn in this time frame into a plastic bag.
  Close securely for one week. This will kill any
  remaining lice or nit.
√ Put stuffed animals and pillows into a plastic bag.
  Close securely for one week.


All of this may seem a little overkill, but when this
unwelcome guest comes into your home, he is
extremely hard to get of.



Two: Snafus
Simplistic HairStyles                                    136


You’ve styled your hair, the humidity outside is at
100%. You know you’re not going to make it past the
front door without some type of hair catastrophe.

You know you can’t prevent it but how do you keep it
from ruining your life (ok, that’s a little dramatic, but hey
this is your hair we’re talking about).

Below you’ll find small remedies that will make a big
difference and allow you to live your life without
complete doom.


You Started with a Flip, Now It’s a Flop
Make sure you prepare for this disaster ahead of time
by styling your hair with a strong holding mousse or
gel. Hopefully your hairstyle will stay in its place until
well after the stroke of midnight…but crazier things
have happened.

Should you need to whip this style back into shape,
begin by:

Lightly wetting the hair to be flipped, (water reactivates
the product) and then curling the hair around your
finger. Let it air dry being careful not to touch it while
it’s drying.


Frizz Control
Begin by applying an anti humectant product to your
hair before you begin styling it. Then finish the style
Simplistic HairStyles                                 137


with another anti humectant product. Anti humectants
are “moisture repellent” which ensures a good
beginning to a lasting hairstyle. (Many products
including; shampoo, conditioner and Styling Products
contain this ingredient so read labels carefully)

When all else fails and you need a quick fix, “finger
comb” your hair from roots to ends for a couple of
minutes to move any natural oils down the hair shaft.
Then comb your hair smooth, hold taunt and in place
for a few minutes.

Although not a fool proof method, it’s enough to get you
out of a jam in a hurry.


Curls One Minute, Straight The Next
Mist your hair with water (having mousse handy is
always a huge plus but depending on the situation, not
always feasible). And then reshape curls with your
fingers. Try not to touch your hair again until it is dry.


Where’s The Volume?
I love this trick! When you need quick volume, do the
palm tease.

No, it’s not a dance, although dancing may have
contributed to your limp locks, but rather the simple
step of taking the palm of your hand, placing it on your
head where volume is needed and moving your hand in
a circular motion, while patting your belly at the same
Simplistic HairStyles                                   138


time.

Then gently smooth and “finger place” strands of hair in
the direction you want it to go. Instant volume!


Oily / Dirty Hair
Apply cornstarch or talcum powder (sparingly) through
your hair fluffing as you go. (These products absorb
excess oil.)

Or do what I call a “cheat” shampoo by quickly
shampooing just the top and crown of your hair instead
of your whole head should time not permit a full blown
shampoo.


Raindrops Keep Fallin’ On My Head
Find your nearest public restroom equipped with hand
dryers. Comb your hair (using your fingers if
necessary) in the desired style, all the while drying it
with the hand dryer.

No hand dryer in site for the next 100 miles? Finger
place or comb your hair in the desired style, allowing it
to air dry, occasionally, finger fluffing it to add a little
volume.
Simplistic HairStyles        139




             Part Two
                Beyond
               HairStyling
Simplistic HairStyles   140
Simplistic HairStyles                               141



                          Chapter Eight:
  Hair Extension…Add On’s…Wigs

____________________________________________
Four, Three, Two Heads Are Better Than One
Choosing Quality
Choosing Type
____________________________________________



Four, Three, Two Heads Are Better Than One
Once an embarrassing necessity, then a mad craze,
natural hair wigs are fast becoming an essential part of
the busy woman's wardrobe.

Convenient and economical (with normal care a wig
need not be dropped off at the hairstylists more than
once every four to six weeks for some, rarely or never
for others), they also abolish problem hair, make any
hairstyle possible and cover a multitude of hair styling
mistakes.

Today, wigs can be bought in any hair texture and can
be designed to duplicate any hairstyle on any
magazine cover. They're ideal for wearing over too
bleached, over permed, under groomed or swim
soaked hair.
Simplistic HairStyles                               142


Many women use them to hide embarrassing dark
roots between touch ups or hair coloring jobs which
were a mistake from the very beginning. You'd be
surprised how many wigs are flying airmail today.

With an increasing number of women appreciating the
value of more than one head, "the only way the wig
business can go is up," according to Max Miller,
president of Joseph Fleischer and Co., the oldest wig
makers in America.

Of the 600,000 American wig wearers, approximately
three quarters wear them for chic and convenience; the
rest must disguise sparse hair or baldness. Fortunately,
with more and more women wearing wigs for fashion,
women who must wear them feel much more relaxed
about their once hush - hush problem.

Almost anything a woman can do with her own hair,
she can do with a natural hair wig or wiglet. She can
comb it, brush it, being careful to keep sharp bristles
away from the foundation, shape it and then let it dry
on a head form.

Style a wig as often as you would your own hair or go
to your hairstylist for re-styling.

For more mileage from your hairpiece or wig, treat it
carefully. Store in a dust free spot away from bright
sunlight or excessive heat.
Simplistic HairStyles                                143


When styles change, your wig can follow suit,
depending, of course, on its original hair length. For
this reason, medium length wigs are the most popular.

And just as you can add a false hairpiece to your own
hair you can add one to a wig, too, whenever you feel
the need to go longer.

Wiglets are ideal when you want to create the illusion
of more hair without the added responsibility; when you
must hide darker roots between touchups; or you feel
like something different.

Why can wigs be so expensive? Four to ten experts
devote as many as forty hours of concentrated work to
the fabrication of one fine wig. In France, Italy,
Germany and some parts of Hungary, wigmakers are
as highly respected as the finest silversmiths.

Watch a wig in the making and you'll come away
thinking it's cheap at half the price.

But first, wigmakers must buy and process virgin hair
(unbleached,      unpermed),    which is  becoming
increasingly difficult to find.

When matching your exact color, skilled wigmakers mix
and blend natural hairs as the artist would the colors on
a palette. These craftsmen assure they can reproduce
any natural color provided it has actually been grown.
Simplistic HairStyles                               144


Many women find as much convenience and high style
in partial wigs, (wiglets). These come in countless
shapes: chignons, wefts, clip in extensions, head
bands, braids, falls, hair enhancers, bangs, switches,
top fullness and on and on.

Hair Extensions are hot right now and I don’t foresee
this fad fading fast anytime soon. And why should it?

They don’t cause damage to your hair. In fact they
allow your natural hair to grow longer and healthier in
the process, they’re fun and they’re versatile.

The versatility is unbelievable. Hey, look at Brittany
Spears or Jessica Simpson. You don’t think their hair
grows that fast, do you?

Following is a complete guide to hair extensions giving
you the tools to make the best and most informative
decision about you and hair extensions.


Choosing Quality
Synthetic Hair
May be your best choice if you have a short hairstyle, a
limited budget or have little time for maintenance.

Pro’s:
   Easy care
   Reasonable price
Simplistic HairStyles                                145


    Permanent color
    Quick availability
    Hold their shape and color fairly well

Con’s:
  Tend to become stiff after time
  The base may be itchy or irritating to sensitive skin
  Can not be highlighted or colored


Human Hair
May be your best choice for longer hairstyles, a more
flexible budget and the desire for a natural look and
feel.

Processed human hair is generally of Chinese origin. It
is processed in order to have a more natural
unprocessed Caucasian appearance.

Unprocessed human hair is the best quality hair
because it is not chemically processed. It is of
European origin. It is the most expensive hair because
of its durability and longevity.

Pro’s:
   This type of hair has a natural movement, feels soft
   to the touch and is the most natural appearing.
   It can also be premed and colored.
   It lasts longer than synthetic hair when taken care of
   properly.
Simplistic HairStyles                                146


Con’s:
  It requires regular maintenance, and is more
  expensive than synthetic hair.


Choosing Type
Wefts
Wefts are “sheets” of hair that are attached at the top
and free flowing at the bottom. Once your own hair is
braided into tiny braids around the back and
underneath, and your hairline, the wefts are then sewn
into the braids.

When all of the wefts have been sewn into your hair,
your natural hair lies over the wefts and is blended with
the extensions, hiding the tracks.

Every six to eight weeks (average) your own hair will
have grown which means although the wefts are still
intact, they will be loose and will need to be taken out
and sewn in again.

Pro’s:
   Easy to take care of
   No fuss, wash and go hair

Con’s:
  Can cause some hair loss if worn for long periods of
  time
  Can’t be colored
Simplistic HairStyles                                147


    Have to be re-done frequently


Clip-In Extensions
These are by far the easiest and quickest way of
adding hair to your own. They are great for going from
short to long hair quickly and easily, without using
messy glues or sitting in a chair for hours.

Pro’s:
   Will not cause damage to your natural hair
   Easy to take care of

Con’s:
  Can’t be colored
  Must be applied and styled each day


Headband Wigs
Are exactly that; a three quarter hairpiece attached to a
headband. They are quick, and easy to use.

Pro’s:
   Will not cause damage to your natural hair
   Easy to take care of

Con’s:
  Can’t be colored
  Must be applied and styled each day
Simplistic HairStyles                                 148


Falls
Have “teeth” that sink into your existing hair to secure
them.

Falls should match or be slightly darker than your own
hair, because your own hair will lie on top of the fall.
Hair generally looks more natural when it is darker
underneath at the roots, but it does depend on the
trend at the time.

Falls are somewhat versatile. You can wear your hair
back, or move it slightly forward. The effect is fullness
without an obvious ponytail or combs. They are a little
more work to do up than a clip-on, but they offer a
versatility that a clip-on can not.

Pro’s:
   Will not cause damage to your natural hair
   Easy to take care of

Con’s:
  Can’t be colored
  Must be applied and styled each day


Hair Enhancers
Are great for enhancing the hair you already have.
They are best for hair that is thinning or lacking volume.

The Hair Enhancer is full of holes (much like a frosting
cap) for pulling your natural hair through, allowing your
Simplistic HairStyles                               149


hairstyle to blend nicely.

The whole process takes no more than 15 minutes
once you’ve mastered the process.

You do not have to match your own hair color with hair
enhancers. In fact, you can create tone-on-tone effects,
highlights or lowlights without chemical processing!


Pro’s:
   Will not cause damage to your natural hair
   Easy to take care of

Con’s:
  Can’t be colored
  Must be applied and styled each day
Simplistic HairStyles   150
Simplistic HairStyles                                151



                            Chapter Nine:
                        Hair Cuts At the Salon
____________________________________________

Hair Cuts at the Salon
Getting the Most Out of Your Next Appointment
How to Find Your Stylist
When You Go to the Salon
____________________________________________



Some of us look forward to having our hair cut. The
thought of being pampered, relaxing and enjoying a
conversation with someone over the age of five, it’s
somewhat like a mini vacation.

Then there’s the rare few of us who dread the thought
of yet another hair cut. We wait until we can’t see
because our bangs our hanging past our nose. Our
kids are embarrassed by us. We look a lot like our
family pet, Shaggy.

I’ll admit it. I’m one of the rare few, odd coming from a
hairstylist. Try being the stylist cutting my hair. She
hates me. I draw a diagram of exactly how she should
perform the cut, what angle she should use while
cutting. I’m the “Hitler” of hair.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  152


But whether you love it or hate it, having your hair cut
on a regular basis is extremely important. Why?...

Hair cuts are vital to healthy hair. Trimming the split
ends before they “grow” prevents the dry, frizzy look
(not a flattering look I must add).

Growing your hair out? Trims are more important than
ever. I’ve never met a person with unhealthy hair that
grows well.

Keep in mind I used the word trim. On average, a
person’s hair grows ½” to 1” per month. If you have
1/16th to 1/8th of that trimmed you’re still at least 1/8th
of an inch ahead of the game. And because your hair is
healthy it’s probably growing at a faster rate than a ½”.

Hair Cuts are essential to maintain a good hairstyle.
When hair grows out, it grows unevenly. After six to
eight weeks you are left with only remnants of your last
style.



Getting the Most Out of Your Next
Appointment
If you’re looking for a new style, know what you want
before you get there.

Have a picture ready. Don’t be afraid to let your stylist
Simplistic HairStyles                                 153


know exactly what it is you want. Virtual HairStyles is a
great start, you can see yourself in the cut even before
those stainless steel blades ever touch your hair

If you’re there for just a trim, make sure your stylist
knows this. Watch her like a hawk (especially if you
don’t know her well).

I hate to admit this about my fellow hairstylist but there
are so many who “misunderstand” the meaning of a
trim. So if you notice “Edward Scissor Hands” getting
happy with the scissors, stop her. Explain to her this is
not your definition of a trim. Could she please ease up
a little?

Too harsh? I don’t think so. This is your hair. You are
the one who goes to bed with it at night. Right?

Most importantly…

Develop a relationship with your stylist. We’re talking
about your hair here.


How to Find Your Stylist

√ Word of mouth (a familiar mouth that is. Friend,
  family etc.)
√ Stop people you see out with a great style. Ask
  them who cuts their hair.
Simplistic HairStyles                                        154


Once you’ve found him…keep him.

Straight From A Hairstylists Mouth…
“We don’t “know” your hair the first time we meet you. It’s takes
a couple of visits. So please…keep in mind we’re human too. We
have bad hair days (excuse the pun, I couldn’t resist). We may not
cut your hair perfectly every time, but don’t dump us. It could
have been a fluke. I swear. “

But if it wasn’t a fluke?...



How do you know when it is time to dump your
stylist?

√ She gives you 3 bad haircuts in a row. (3 strikes
  you’re out)
√ She seems more in tune to the conversation around
  her than in you.
√ She can’t remember your name and you’ve been
  using her for a year now. ☺


When You Go to the Salon
When you make an appointment, let your stylist know
what you plan to have done so he can set aside ample
time. If you are planning to go to one of the busier,
more popular salons make your appointment for a
Monday or Tuesday; end of the week appointments are
usually reserved for regular customers and are very
Simplistic HairStyles                                155


often booked up for weeks anyway.

If you must cancel an appointment, phone as early as
you possibly can, to allow your hairstylist to allot your
time to another customer.

Be punctual, not only out of courtesy to your stylist but
to other customers. One late arrival will disrupt a
hairstylist's entire schedule.

Be explicit, too. If you don't want your hair cut shorter
say so plainly. Don't wait until six inches have been
clipped and then scream. There's a mirror in front of
you to allow you to watch what the stylist is doing. But
always remember: for most styles, the dead weight of
long hair is a handicap.

Don't play guessing games when your stylist asks, as
he should, whether you are single or married, work or
play, color or don't color, and when you had your last
permanent. He is not being unduly curious. He is
simply trying to create a style which will express your
personality and still fit into your way of life. He must
know your hair color and permanent background before
he can give you a new color or perm.

Do bring in pictures of styles you admire. But don't
expect a carbon copy. You want a style which will do
the most for your particular face, figure, and
personality.
Simplistic HairStyles                                    156


Don't be afraid to ask questions about your hair. While
stylists don't appreciate idle chatter, like all artists they
enjoy expounding their theories. Listen and you will
learn.

 Once you know the basic dance steps, you're ready to
attempt anything on the ballroom floor.

So, too, once you've mastered the basics, there's no
limit to the number of hairstyles you can copy or create.

Complex as many coiffures may seem, they are all
merely infinite combinations of surprisingly few tricks.
Learn these, and the wonderful world of flattering
hairstyles is yours.

Anything you see on a magazine cover today can be
on your head tomorrow. Improvise on a few basic
patterns and you can make your own custom designs.

The trick is to get the feeling for brushes, and irons
(curling or flat) and then to experiment.

Beautiful styles also begin with observation. Pleasant
as it is to daydream at the salon, watch your
hairstylist's every motion as he styles your hair.

And if at first you don't succeed in imitating his or her
polished results, try, try again. the first curls are the
hardest.
Simplistic HairStyles                               157



                              Chapter Ten:
                         Hair Cuts At Home

____________________________________________

Hair Cuts at Home
Step One: Creating Shape and Determining Length
Step Two: Bangs
____________________________________________



I don’t recommend “full blown”, “new hairstyle” haircuts
at home. Cutting hair and doing it well takes many
years of practice on many heads of hair.

Cutting hair is an art. You must naturally have the
“vision”. Once you go beyond a basic hair cut, it gets
complicated and should be left up to the professional.

But…basic hair cuts are fairly simple with just a couple
of precautions.

Keep in mind the following instructions are basic, but
valuable to the person who only needs her bangs
trimmed in between salon cuts, has children who dread
going to the salon or can’t afford to have her or her
families hair cut on a regular basis.
Simplistic HairStyles                                158


May I suggest you read this chapter thoroughly before
picking up even a comb? Then if you don’t understand
something, you can go over it until you do and you’ll be
ahead of the game by already having a pretty good
idea of the steps you’ll be taking before you begin.



Supplies You’ll Need:
   Sharp scissors
   Comb (preferably not with a tail)
   Clips or Jaws
   Towel or Cape
   Water bottle
   This book




Step One: Creating                     Shape       and
Determining Length
The Blunt Cut
The Blunt Haircut is the only cut that is absolutely
“nothing but” blunt. No layers, no notching, nothing
but…blunt. Surprisingly the blunt cut is one of the most
popular haircuts. It’s also the easiest to cut.

1. Divide the hair into 4 sections, horizontally (left to
   right) from behind one ear to behind the other ear,
   and then vertically (up and down) straight down the
   middle from front to back.
Simplistic HairStyles                                   159




2. Now that you have all of your sections, leave 1" of
   hair out from the perimeter of each section
   (horizontally).

3. From here on out we'll call this your guide. The
   guide is the section of hair you will follow for the rest
   of the hair cut.

4. Before you begin cutting, determine the desired
   length and shape of the final haircut.

5. Now cut your guide to the desired length and
   shape. Starting in the back then moving from side to
   side. Once your guide is cut, check to make sure
   both sides of the hair are the same length.

6. Once you have the length and shape established,
   let another small section of hair out of the clips.

7. After you have finished your guide continue parting
   "see thru" sections, then cut, using your guide as a
   guideline. (Hence the term guide)

8. Continue this step until all hairs are cut.
Simplistic HairStyles                                   160


The Bevel Cut
Is also an easy haircut but differs from the Blunt Cut.
Cutting the hair in the bevel manner allows the hair to
naturally “cup” under as opposed to hanging “stick”
straight.

1. Divide the hair into 4 sections, horizontally (left to
   right) from behind one ear to behind the other ear,
   and then vertically (up and down) straight down the
   middle from front to back.

2. Now that you have all of your sections, leave 1" of
   hair out from the perimeter of each section
   (horizontally).

3. From here on out we'll call this your guide. The
   guide is the section of hair you will follow for the rest
   of the hair cut.

4. Before you begin cutting, determine the desired
   length and shape of the final haircut.

5. Begin cutting with the persons head bent down as
   though they’re looking at the floor. They need to
   remain in this position until you’re finished cutting
   the back of their hair.

6. Continue this step until all hairs in the back are cut.
7. Once you’ve cut the back, continue to the sides.
   Have the person tilt their head away from you while
Simplistic HairStyles                         161


    still looking straight ahead.
8. Connect the hair on the sides by following your
   guide from the back.
Simplistic HairStyles                                   162


The Graduated Cut
Although this cut adds the slightest layer to the ends, it
is still considered a one length haircut. The graduated
ends allows for maximum movement of the hair.

1. Divide the hair into 4 sections, horizontally (left to
   right) from behind one ear to behind the other ear,
   and then vertically (up and down) straight down the
   middle from front to back.

2. Now that you have all of your sections, leave 1" of
   hair out from the perimeter of each section
   (horizontally).

3. From here on out we'll call this your guide. The
   guide is the section of hair you will follow for the rest
   of the hair cut.

4. Before you begin cutting, determine the desired
   length and shape of the final haircut.

5. When you begin cutting elevate the hair slightly off
   the neck beginning in the back, by holding it
   between your second and third fingers, at this point
   cutting the back only.

6. Once your guide is cut, bring down your next "see
   thru" parting. Again, elevate the hair slightly off the
   neck by holding it between your second and third
   fingers, then cut following your guide.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  163


7. Continue this step until all hairs in the back are cut.

8. Once you’ve cut the back, continue to the sides in
   the same manner – “one see thru section at a time”.
   The person should be looking straight ahead.

9. Connect the hair by following your guide from the
   back of the hair. Elevate the hair slightly by holding
   it between your second and third fingers, then cut
   following your guide.

10. Continue this step until all hairs on both sides are
    cut.

Tips:
•   Determine the desired length and shape of the final
    hair cut before you begin.
•   Use hair clips for each section to keep the hair out of
    the way while you’re cutting.
•   Cut NATURALLY curly hair while it is dry.
•   When cutting the hair short around the ear, bend the
    ear down. Getting the ear out of your way is the best
    prevention of cutting the ear.


    And most importantly…

•   Do not cut your guide again as you cut the rest of the
    hair!
Simplistic HairStyles                                   164


I can’t stress this point enough! If you cut your guide
after it’s been established, and while you’re cutting the
rest of the hair, you’ll have nothing to follow and find
yourself lost in the hair cut.



Step Two (Optional): Creating Bangs
Typically the bangs are cut at just about eyebrow
length. However, the length does vary depending on
the trend at the time and personal preference.

Note about Cowlicks:
Cowlicks that are on the front hairline (bang area) can
make trimming bangs extremely difficult. However, there
are some tricks you can use to make cutting cowlicks
easier.

•   Cut the bang while the hair is dry
•   Don’t hold the bang while you’re cutting, instead
    allow the hair to hang freely then trim straight across.
•   Make sure to cut the hair slightly longer than the
    desired length for the hair will shrink when it’s dry.
Simplistic HairStyles                                165


Fringe Bang (thin)
Best used on a wide or short forehead. Popular among
people wearing a bang for the first time

1. At the front hairline from temple to temple comb
   down a thin section of hair. (Depending on the
   desired thinness of the bang)

2. Use clips to pull the rest of the hair back and out of
   your way.

3. Cut hair straight across. Beginning in the center
   then moving to each side. Check to make sure the
   sides are even. They should hang about the same
   length on either side.


Deep Bang (thick)
Helps hide imperfections on the forehead including
acne scars or even wrinkles. Can make a round face
appear longer

1. At the front hairline from temple to temple comb
   down a thick section of hair (An inch is average)
   depending on the desired thickness of the bang.

2. Use clips to pull the rest of the hair back and out of
   your way.

3. Cut hair straight across. Beginning in the center
   then moving to each side.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 166


4. Check to make sure the sides are even. They
   should hang about the same length on either side.


Triangular Bang
Creates height. Versatile styling

1. From the crown area, or even closer to the front
   hairline should you want a shallower triangular
   bang, make a parting to the left temple and then a
   parting to the right temple. (The shape of a triangle).

2. Use clips to pull the rest of the hair back and out of
   your way.

3. Cut hair straight across beginning in the center then
   moving from to each side.

4. Check to make sure the sides are even. They
   should hang about the same length on either side.



Adding Layers to the Bang
Long Layer Bang
Adds gentle movement

1. When cutting the bang, hold the hair between your
   index and middle fingers. Your middle finger should
   be resting on the forehead.
Simplistic HairStyles                              167


2. To add a more distinctive layer, (this allows for
   height) comb the entire bang area straight up until
   the original length of the bang (guideline) drops on
   the forehead.

3. Cut straight across the length desired.


Curved Bang

1. Both sides of the bang are combed towards the
   middle

2. From temple to temple (once again as an ending
   point) comb the hair straight down.

3. Next, comb both sides of the bang towards the
   middle. Cut slightly longer than desired length. TA
   DA! A perfectly curved bang.


Chunked Bang
After cutting the bang curved or straight, cut thick
strands of hair randomly, and on an angle, moving up
and down the bangs without getting too close to the
hairline.


Wispy Bang
After cutting the bang curved or straight, cut thin
strands of hair randomly and on an angle, moving up
and down the bang without getting too close to the
Simplistic HairStyles   168


hairline.
Simplistic HairStyles                               169



                         Chapter Eleven
                        At Home Hair Color
____________________________________________

Simplistic HairColor
Before You Take the Colorful Step
Understanding Types of Color
Beyond the Box Instructions and Tips
Understanding How to Choose the Correct Color
A Color to Match Your Complexion
Highlighting/Lowlighting
Wrapping it All Up
____________________________________________



Simplistic HairColor
Nature may have given you dishwater hair and pale
lips, but she also gave you an undefeatable spirit.

Unless you are a member of a distinct minority you
probably began experimenting with lipstick soon after
you emerged from the cradle.

And today your most flattering hair color is very likely
not the one nature gave you but one waiting in a bottle,
ready to be released like a good genie to spread its
Simplistic HairStyles                                170


colorful magic through your hair.

Pick a color, any color, and it can be yours. It can look
so natural even your hairstylist won't know.

Today's woman is talked about not when she takes to
the color bottle but when she doesn't and allows her
hair to go dull and drab.

Ask any leading hair stylist and he will answer: "A
woman should do what is most becoming. If her face is
youthful, she can let her hair go gray, if she cares to.
But how many women with gray hair have youthful
faces?"

"Nearly all women look younger with color. Usually a
color in the original shade is preferable. However, vivid
contrasts and daring colors can be extremely chic on
women whose personalities are geared to experiment
with latest trends."

Why are so many women deciding to be no longer just
a shade away from hair beauty?

Science has evolved not only natural looking colors but
faster methods of application. Color can be added in
the privacy of your kitchen or in a grand salon.

Color not only brightens a woman's hair, it brightens
her life. It improves her silhouette, camouflages faulty
features, makes eyes look brighter, complexion clearer
Simplistic HairStyles                               171


and adds body to troublesome baby fine hair.

After years of curiosity, balanced by inertia or
indecision, you've decided to cast your hair upon the
coloring basin.

Comparatively simple, safe and speedy as the process
is today to become a blonde, brunette, or redhead by
formula rather than by nature requires patience, time,
money and the right natural coloring.

While young girls can wear almost any color, older
women must be decidedly more careful. After about
thirty five, women who insist on trying to recapture the
hair shade of their youth are actually defeating their
own purposes.

Cling to the same color yes, but cling to it several
shades lighter. Take your cue from nature, which
lightens hair when complexions fade to make a more
flattering frame for mature features. Strive for softer
blondes, pinkish reds and lighter browns as you near
forty.

Establishing any hard and fast rules of hair color are
almost impossible, colorists agree. Complexions are
constant variables. These few principles do seem to
apply generally:

    Women with pale, light, nearly white skins can wear
    a wide range of colors successfully, especially the
Simplistic HairStyles                                172


    dramatic colors: pastel     blondes,   bright   reds,
    chestnuts and blacks.
√ Creamier skins may also add copper and auburn to
  their repertoire.
√ Women with pink and white skins can use all the
  colors their whiter skinned sisters use. They look
  well in black, especially if their eyes are blue, light
  or dark auburn and all shades of brown.
√ Women with sallow or olive skin should avoid ashen
  or silver tones. These shades make them appear
  gray all over. So should older women. A soft honey
  or beige tone is more flattering.
√ Sallow skinned or older women should also avoid
  reddish gold tones.



Before You Take The Colorful Step
Get your hair in tip top condition with moisturizing and
or repair treatments.

Snip a lock of hair from the back of your head, for a
record of your exact natural color.

If you perm your hair too do it at least one week,
preferably two, before you schedule your color. Two
chemical treatments too closely placed can weaken
hair. A permanent also tends to discolor colored hair
and sometimes leaves hair so porous it absorbs too
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much color.

It’s wise to approach your new color step by step, as
slowly as possible, unless, of course you’re
contemplating a switch from auburn to violet, in which
that’s the fast lane, not the slow road.



Understanding Types of HairColor
Permanent, not so permanent, temporary, not quite
temporary, long lasting temporary…There are so many
types of hair coloring on the market you may not know
where to start.

If you are merely flirting with color, start with
temporaries. Try one shade and if you don't like that,
try another and no harm done. If all you are really
seeking is new life for drab hair, temporary colors may
be all you need to make hair look fresher, younger, and
brighter.

On your hair today and gone tomorrow, temporaries
come in several forms and degrees of stability. But no
matter how they come out of the bottle or aerosol
container, they all color hair by coating rather than
penetrating the hair shaft. Then they all wash out with
the next shampoo.
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Color Enhancing Shampoos
Depositing the least amount of color of all temporaries,
they are best used to enhance hair of the same color
as the shampoo.


Color Rinses
Available in a beautiful rainbow of colors, they intensify
natural color, add highlights, wash away dulling soap
film, and blend in (not to be confused with covering)
gray.

White, silver and steel rinses remove yellow from gray
hair, while ash or platinum rinses drab brassy blonde
tones. Pastel rinses double as colors for blonde or pre-
lightened hair.

Rinses can intensify natural hair color, but they cannot
lighten it. Rinses can do nothing for hair darker than the
rinse shade except add highlights. You can apply a red
rinse on blonde hair, a black rinse on brown hair, a
brown rinse on red hair, but you cannot go from brown
to blonde with a temporary rinse.

Natural shades are used for reviving faded, sun
bleached or permanent stained hair. Light pastel rinses
ranging from cloud white to lilac, with beiges in
between, are applied over bleached or pale hair for
soda fountain confection effects. As these colors wash
off after a shampoo, it is possible to be a different color
blonde every week.
Simplistic HairStyles                                175


Apply color rinses to hair that has been freshly
shampooed with a mild product.

The trick is     not to let porous areas grab color too
quickly. Sun     bleached crowns and permed ends, as
well as hair     that has been bleached or colored or
washed with      a strong shampoo, are more apt to be
porous.

Apply color first to roots, which are less apt to be
porous, then wait until just before you are ready to
rinse before combing the color through the entire head
of hair.


Semi Permanent HairColor
Longer lasting rinses are the halfway houses on the
road between temporary and permanent color.

Shampooed through the hair and then allowed to
remain until the desired shade is reached, they impart
more color than temporary rinses by gently penetrating
the hair shaft without the aid of a developer like
peroxide.

They last through three to eight shampoos, depending
upon the brand used, do a better job of covering gray
than rinses, and are formulated not to rub off on
pillows. Unlike colors and bleaches they leave no
telltale lines of demarcation as they make their graceful
exit.
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HairColor Shampoo
When the mirror on the wall says this is the best color
of all, there is still another border town before
permanent color, the color shampoo. Mix equal parts of
shampoo, peroxide and color. Choose color in a gold
shade if your hair is light brown, red gold if your hair is
brown or reddish, ash if it's a pale tone.


Permanent HairColor
A permanent color lasts until hair grows out. It cannot
be shampooed out of hair, although a little bit does go
down the drain with each washing. There are two
types of permanent colors…tints and lighteners, once
less euphemistically called bleaches.


Highlighting
An inspired idea for the woman who doesn't want to go
all the way to a lightener shade. Wide, swashbuckling
streaks are usually most becoming on younger women.
Spicy, allover frosting of tiny strands does the most for
more mature women.



Beyond the Box Instructions and Tips
Because all boxes of haircolor and highlighting kits
contain detailed instructions, we will not go over them
here again. So instead of giving you step by step
instructions, I’ll pick up where the manufacturers
dropped the ball.
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Just as you wouldn't dream of putting makeup on soiled
skin, don't expect colors or curls to do their best work
on hair that's not sparkling clean.

    Seven days before; treat your hair with a hair mask
    or deep conditioner to make sure your hair is in tip
    top condition before coloring. This is especially true
    if you’ll be using a permanent hair color.

    Don’t shampoo just before coloring but do shampoo
    the night or day before.

    Deep condition one week after coloring. Use
    shampoos and conditioners formulated for color
    treated hair.

    If in doubt when choosing hair color, go one shade
    lighter.

    Be aware that active ingredients in dandruff
    shampoo may cause semi-permanent hair color to
    fade more rapidly.

    When roots begin to show you need to do a touch
    up application. But don’t apply color to your whole
    head (unless you need to refresh the color, and
    then only the last five to ten minutes), as this will
    make the ends brittle and dry.
    Rinsing the color out of your hair – Begin rinsing
    with tepid water, once you have about half the color
    out – stop rinsing and begin to “shampoo” your hair
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    with the remaining haircolor. Finally, rinse, rinse,
    rinse until all color is removed and then condition
    with a deep conditioner. There is no need to use
    shampoo.

    Do not shampoo your hair for two days.

    If home hair color goes wrong DON’T PANIC.
    Check for a hotline number on the box. Also, there
    are not too many hair coloring nightmares most
    hairstylists haven’t seen or fixed.


Fading Color Culprits:
    •   The sun
    •   Pollution
    •   Frequent Shampooing
    •   Chlorine
    •   Iron from Well Water



Understanding How to Choose the
Correct Color
Anyone can follow the directions contained in a store
bought box of haircolor but knowing how a product
works will help you achieve the best color for you.

Having a basic understanding of haircoloring and hair
color will help you determine which color, tone and
Simplistic HairStyles                              179


level best suits you.

First, let me clarify the difference between…

Haircolor
Refers to products and services

Hair Color
Is the color of your hair



Determine the Tone and Level of Your
Natural and Desired Color.

Tone
Describes the warmth or coolness of a color

Note:
Using a haircolor that compliments your natural skin
tone, will give you the most natural hair color result.
Determining your tone will also help you choose which
shades of make up and color of clothes look best on you
too.


What tone are you?
There are two easy ways to determine your tone:

1. Take a close look at your eye color. If your eyes
Simplistic HairStyles                               180


contain red, orange, yellow or gold flecks through the
iris, your tone is WARM.

If your eyes contain black, gray/brown, gray/green,
blue, violet, grey or white fleck through the iris, your
tone is COOL.

2. Look at the palm of your hand. What color do you
see?

•   Gray, green or yellow your tone is cool or neutral.
    Warm colors aren’t recommended however, if you’d
    like to wear a warm color it should be a "dark"
    warm)
•   Red, red/brown or blue/red your tone is cool or
    neutral.
•   Gold/brown, gold or peach your tone is warm.
•   A combination of pink and yellow you have neutral
    tone.

An easy way to determine what colors fall into the
warm /cool category.

Warm
Think of fall, deep and rich.
Cool
Think of spring, light and pastel.
Level
Lightness or darkness of hair color
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Why is it important to know your level?
Most manufacturers use this number system now. If
you’re familiar with what level you are, it makes
deciding which color to choose much easier.

For example; If your level is 5 (light brown) and you
want a darker hair color, you’d purchase a color
numbered lower than 5. Or if you want to go lighter,
you’d purchase a number higher than 5.

Levels are numbered 1 through 10, the higher the
number the lighter the color. The levels are as follows:
(Select the number that best matches the color your
hair is now, whether your hair is colored or not)




 Level 1       Level 2    Level 3   Level 4    Level 5
  Black       Very Dark    Dark     Brown      Medium
               Brown      Brown                 Brown
 Level 6       Level 7    Level 8    Level 9   Level 10
  Light         Dark       Light    Very Light   Light
 Brown         Blonde     Blonde     Blonde Platinum
                                                Blonde
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See how easy this is? By now you know…

√ What color will look best on you? (Tone)
√ The color of your hair. (Level)
√ How to choose the color you want your hair to be.
  (Tone plus Level)


Just One More Step
And you’ll be off and running to the store to buy the hair
color just right for you.

Have you ever noticed on a box of color, beside the
number, you’ll often see a letter too? Below is an
explanation of each letter:


R = Red
Used to add a red tone
W= Warm
Used to add a soft red tone
G = Gold
Used to add a gold tone
N=Neutral
Will not give a tone of any color. and Is best for
covering grey hair.
B = Beige
Used to tone down brassy colors or to cancel         red or
warm tones
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Now let’s wrap it all up...
Into a nice, neat little package. You know what level of
light to dark (1-10) you desire or are. Let’s add a letter.

Do you want to be a red head?
Add an "R"
Maybe a strawberry blonde?
Add a "W"
Maybe you hate the color red?
Add an "A"
You just want to freshen up the color you are now or you
don’t want any tone?
Add an "N"
Or do you like the sun kissed look?
Add a "G"
Do you want to soften a brassy look?
Add a "B"

Pretty simple huh?



A Color to Match Your Complexion
Blonde
Platinum to Ash

With only one life to lead, you are determined to lead it
as a blonde. Cliffhanging ads have pushed your
curiosity to the brink. You must discover for yourself:
Simplistic HairStyles                                 184


What shade of blonde should you be?
Anyone can wear a golden halo. But you will go blonde
most successfully if your hair is already dull blonde or
light brown. Haircolor will lighten your present color two
to three shades. Darker hair requires lightening and/or
toning.


Your Best Color
If your complexion is light almost white, you may find
you look best as a champagne blonde, an ash, honey
or strawberry blonde.

If your skin is pink and white, try ash, honey, strawberry
blonde or copper shades.

If your skin is creamy, ash blonde might be just your
color.

If your skin is gray or sallow, avoid ash shades Choose
instead a delicate beige.


How to Achieve

Rinse:
If you are a dull blonde or light brown, add luster and
highlights with the lightest blonde rinse.

Semi-Permanent:
If silver is threading through your gold, use one of
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these in a shade the same color as your hair.

Color Shampoo:
Will be kind to hair that is more than a little gray and in
need of a definite pickup.

Permanent:
If you would like to go four shades lighter, use a color
four shades lighter than your natural shade. Works best
on dull blonde and light brown hair.

Lightener:
This is the only way to go all the way from brunette to
blonde.


Red
Strawberry Blonde to Auburn

Becoming a redhead is simpler than becoming a
blonde because most women have ample red pigment
in their hair. But if there is a suspicion of yellow in your
skin, go easy. Choose instead a warm blonde.

In fact, no matter what your coloring, keep a cool head
when you're contemplating playing with fire. Keep away
from brilliant reds unless you have a typical redhead's
complexion.
And if you're over thirty five, avoid the mahogany
shades which can play harsh tricks on your features
and skin. Choose instead a softer, lighter red.
Simplistic HairStyles                               186


How to Achieve

Rinses:
If your hair is light or dark brown and your skin fair,
select a light red temporary or long lasting rinse for
copper or strawberry blonde. Remember rinses don't
lighten, merely intensify.

Permanent HairColor:
If your hair is brown and your complexion is dark, try a
chestnut or auburn color to lighten hair and add
coppery highlights.

Lighteners:
If your hair is dark and you want a high fashion color,
you must pre bleach, but hair does not need to be
stripped down as much as for a blonde color.


Once you’ve Gone Red
Subdue your makeup and wear a simpler hairstyle.
Your hair color makes enough excitement.

Neutralize red reflections on skin by adding a green
based makeup product (powder, green colored
concealer, etc.) to your makeup regimen.


Brown Hair
Light Brown to Midnight Black
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Why not take advantage of the plentitude of blondes to
stand out above the crowd with brown hair?

And while gentlemen may say they prefer blondes, they
usually marry brunettes, (who often then go blonde).

And while you never thought brown a particularly
fascinating color, you'll be surprised how warm and
exciting mouse brown hair can be made with the right
haircolor or rinses.

It's comparatively easy also and therefore less
expensive to go from blonde or red to brown or black. If
you are a blonde or light brown or red, you can go to
dark brown or black with a color, and, in some cases, a
long lasting rinse.

If your skin is fair, you'll probably look best as a
medium brunette, golden brown, ash brown or
chestnut.

If your complexion is darker, try a mellow dark brown
shade.

But don't set your heart on raven hair unless you are
young, very young, and have a flawless pink and
white complexion like an Irish colleen's.

Intense blue black hair can be the crudest color of all to
girls with less than perfect complexions. It
emphasizes every blemish. A rich, dark brown can be
Simplistic HairStyles                             188


just as dramatic and considerably easier on your
beauty.
How to Achieve

Rinses:
Will darken your hair.

Semi-Permanent Color:
Will darken and blend in and cover gray.

Permanent Color:
Will give you a more intense and lasting shade of
brown or black. If you are brownish and going gray
choose a color just a shade lighter than your natural
color.



Touch Ups
Even when the heavens seem in danger of falling, don't
neglect touchups. Thanks to the heat of the scalp,
coloring of the freshly emerging shafts takes only
twenty to forty five minutes.

Touch ups are now your constant headache. Choose a
simpler hairstyle now that your color is the center of
attention.
Ask your stylist if you can't possibly wear your hair
without a part. Bangs, curls or any hairline hiding
effects also tend to keep touchup times further apart.
Simplistic HairStyles                                   189



Sometimes a long lasting rinse is just the answer to
your touchup problem, provided your natural shade is
gray or lighter than the rinse.



Tip:
Gray hair can be difficult to color. If your hair is more
than 50% gray, be sure to purchase a color that states it
will give you COMPLETE gray coverage and use a color
with the tone “N”.




High Lighting / Low Lighting:
High Lighting
It doesn’t matter what you call it; Highlighting /
Bleaching / Streaking / Frosting / Tipping /, they are all
the same thing, which is: "To remove pigment from
your hair”, unlike haircolor which changes or adds
pigment to your hair.

If your natural hair color is DARK (level 1 to 3), it is not
recommended you highlight your hair unless the result
you want to achieve is warm (a hint of red or gold) or
red.
Your hair will go through several stages of
"decolorizing" depending on the color you’re starting
with. The darker your hair color the more stages it will
Simplistic HairStyles                                  190


go through.

If you see your hair going through a red or orange
stage, DO NOT panic, and whatever you do, DO NOT
rinse it out! This is a natural process. It needs to go
through these stages to reach the final (chosen) stage.

The darker your natural hair color, the longer time it will
take to process.



Note: Foiling
Leave this method up to the professionals. Trust me; all
professional hairstylists spend month’s even years
perfecting this method of highlighting.



Put a plastic cap over your hair. If your kit did not
contain one, use saran wrap or a plastic bag. Then
wrap a towel around the cap to help retain the heat.

Don’t go outside, even a warm breeze may "cool"
things down.

Once you’ve reached your desired color, rinse, rinse,
rinse and rinse a little more with tepid water and then
condition! There is no need to shampoo your hair. In
fact, it’s in too fragile of a state to shampoo.

Gently towel dry by blotting NOT rubbing your hair.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 191



Do not blow dry at this time. If you MUST, use the
coolest setting on your dryer. Please remember, your
hair has just been through a chemical process. Give it
a chance to "rest".


Low Lighting
Low lighting is done in the same manner as
highlighting. The difference is: Instead of lightening
strands of hair, you’re darkening the strands of hair.
This is achieved by using haircolor instead of bleach.

Note: Foiling
Leave this method up to the professionals. Trust me; all
professional hairstylists spend month’s even years
perfecting this method of highlighting.

Once you’ve reached your desired color, rinse, rinse,
rinse and rinse a little more with tepid water and then
condition! There is no need to shampoo your hair.

Gently towel dry by blotting NOT rubbing your hair.



Permanent Colored and Highlighted
Hair Is Delicate Hair
Now that your hair is the exciting color you've always
wanted, treat it as you would a precious, delicately
colored silk. With colored or bleached hair you can
Simplistic HairStyles                                   192


never relax your vigilance.

Apply conditioners daily if you prefer not to look like a
straw woman. And don't make hay while the sun
shines. Protect your newest attraction from sun and
wind with a whimsical beach hat, a smartly tied scarf
(preferably white to reflect the sun's rays), or a fine film
of conditioning cream. Both hat and scarf should not be
worn so tightly that air is not able to circulate through
your hair. Perspiration tends to stain hair.

Don't go near the water without at least one bathing
cap; two are more efficient. And be sure to rinse
chlorine and salt water from your hair at the first
opportunity. When pool water is allowed to remain in
the hair, it gives even natural blonde hair a greenish
color in addition to making it dry and porous.

The elements also discolor hair. Use color rinses to
keep your new shade alive. And when brassy notes
creep in, drab them with a long lasting ash or platinum
rinse. Use a matching long lasting rinse for faded hair.

To look its very best, especially if it's a pastel shade,
colored hair must be clean hair. Use a soft brush for
fragile hair and select your shampoo carefully. Many
beautiful colors are ruined by strong shampoos with
harsh alkali content.
Soap and medicated shampoos tend to strip colored
hair. Use a shampoo especially formulated for colored
hair or a baby shampoo.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 193



In fact, take advantage of all the products especially
formulated for colored and bleached hair. Follow up
with a conditioner formulated for color treated hair.


Bleached Hair
Since it contains less pigment, bleached hair must be
handled even more carefully than colored hair.

Treat your scalp and hair to regular deep conditioning
treatments. Even the best formulated colors tend to dry
scalp and hair.

Handle your hair like an uninsured jewel when wet.
Don't use lemon or vinegar rinses, which can strip
color. Pat, don't rub hair dry. Colored hair is especially
defenseless when wet.



Matching Makeup to Your New Hair
Color
Suddenly your hair is the golden blonde, vibrant red or
smoldering black of your dreams. But your old makeup
only seems to clash.

In case no one has told you, new hair colors demand
new makeup shades. So erase your old color patterns
from your mind and start studying an exciting new
spectrum.
Simplistic HairStyles                                    194




For Blondes
Your new makeup will depend on the color of your
complexion, the color of your eyes and your new
wardrobe, as well as the exciting new color in your hair.
As eye shadow is the most dramatic member of your
makeup family, remember this simple rule: Key shadow
to your iris by day, to your costume by night.


If Your Skin Is Pink And Fair, Ivory Through Rosy:
Your colorist has probably given you a new color in the
lighter shades (ash blonde, smoky beige or silvery
paste) and your eyes are doubtless blue or gray.

Lipstick
Light red, light rose, clear pink, pink violet, and coral.

Foundation
Palest or light rosy pink.



Mascara
Gray for daytime; blue, violet, silver or gray for evening.

Liner
Black, brown or the color of your shadow depending on
how much accent you desire. Try brown liner with
mauve, purple with blue.
Simplistic HairStyles                               195


Pencil
Light brown mixed with gray.

Shadow
Blue eye shadow with blue eyes, silver or mauve with
gray.


If Your Skin Is Light Beige Through Olive:
Your hair is probably golden blonde and your eyes
brown, green or hazel. Neutralize any yellow glints your
hair may cast on your complexion by adding pinkish
highlights to your face powder or foundation.

Lipstick
Light red, pink, coral, pink orange.

Foundation
Peach beige

Pencil
Light brown, applied with darker brown.

Mascara
Brown for daytime; brown, gold, frosted or regular
green for evening.

Shadow
Green for brown eyes, green for hazel eyes, brown for
brown eyes.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 196


Liner
If using brown or black liner, keep mascara the same
color.


For Redheads
It's much easier for you to stray and get lost in this new
world of color than it is for almost any other shade.

Don't be afraid to experiment. And don't let makeup
and costume conflict too much with your fire red locks.
If auburn makes your complexion blush too much, add
beige or ivory to foundation or powder base.


If Your Skin Is Fair And Rosy:
Your eyes are blue or grey, you probably are a rosy
redhead.

Lipstick
Light red, light rose, sunny pink, rosy coral.

Foundation
Ivory

Pencil
Brown and auburn blended.

Liner
Brown or auburn or to match your shadow, but avoid
dark colors.
Simplistic HairStyles                                197


Shadow
Lavender, blue or green for blue eyes; silver or gray for
gray eyes.

Mascara
Brown for daytime; blue, green, gray, silver blue for
evening.



If Your Skin Is Tawny:
Your hair is doubtless a deeper, softer, browner red
and your eyes brown, green or hazel.

Lipstick
Coral, clear red, orange, sunny pink or copper.

Foundation
Warm

Pencil
Brown and auburn blended.

Mascara
Brown for daytime; plain or frosted green for evening.

Shadow
Green for brown, green or hazel eyes.

Liner
Simplistic HairStyles                               198


Brown or auburn.


For A Golden Brunette or a Black Beauty

If Your Skin Is Pink, Rosy Or Ruddy:
Your eyes are probably blue or grey.

Lipstick
Rose, clear red or pink

Foundation
Light peach

Pencil
Black

Mascara
Black for daytime; black, violet, dark blue, silver or
silver blue for evening.

Shadow
Blue and mauve flatter blue eyed brunettes. Green,
mauve or blue become black beauties with blue eyes.
With soft gray eyes and black hair, try mauve or silver.

Liner
Black and brown are usually preferable day and night
for brunettes. Black haired sirens should use black or
match shadow. For more exotic effects, try blue liner
with green shadow or vice versa.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  199




If Your Skin Has Golden Tones, Is Tan Or Olive:

Lipstick
Clear red, deep orange, golden red, coral, russet.

Pencil
Dark brown blended with black.

Mascara
Black for daytime; black, gold or green for evening.

Shadow
For brown eyes use green, mauve or blue. Hazel eyes
look best with green.

Liner
Black or matching shadow if hair is black; black, brown
or shadow shade if hair is brown.

Foundation
Warm. You can tone down excessive ruddiness with a
touch of beige or green powder or you can warm a
sallow skin with a pinch of pink or violet.


Your Hair Remains Salt and Pepper

If Your Eyes Are Blue Or Gray:
Blend gray and brown eyebrow pencil, using more of
Simplistic HairStyles                                 200


the predominant color in your hair.

Try pink blush, matching lipstick or a light shade of red.

Use soft blue or green for blue eyes, mauve or gray for
grays. If lids are wrinkled avoid shadows. Grey or black
mascara.


If Your Eyes Are Brown Or Green:
Use brown eyebrow pencil, light green or brown eye
shadow.

Light coral or light red blush and matching lipstick.
Brownish pink lipsticks are sometimes flattering.



For Silver Hair

If Your Skin Is Fair, Your Eyes Blue Or Gray:

Foundation
Pinky peach.

Lipstick
Deep rosy pink.

Pencil
Silver or gray.

Shadow
Simplistic HairStyles                                      201


Blue or green for blue eyes, mauve or gray for gray.

Liner
Go lightly, it's more flattering to younger set. If you want
to accent your eyes for special occasions use subdued
color like smoke.

Mascara
Grey, smoke or black. Use eyelash curler to expose iris
even more.


If Your Skin Is Darker, Your Eyes Green, Hazel Or Brown:

Foundation
Warm

Lipstick
Cherry red

Mascara
Gray, smoke or black

Pencil
Silver, charcoal or gray best. If your eyes are very dark,
use black pencil very lightly.

Liner
Here again go lightly. Shadow: green for brown or
hazel eyes.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 202


Wrapping It All Up…
There are many reasons a person will color her / his
own hair. Whether it is to cover gray, to be creative or
you just don’t like your natural color.

No two people have the same color of hair. In fact, your
own hair will be different shades of color. This will vary
from season to season and from year to year.

Whatever the reason haircoloring can be easy to do.
With the help of this book, you will be on your way to
coloring your hair the "professional" way. And the end
result? Will be magnificent!

Tips for Making Your Color Last:

•   Don’t wash your hair for 24 hours after color
    application. When you do, use tepid water.
•   Use color enhancing shampoos and conditioners.
•   Use products with UV protectants.
•   Begin weekly conditioning regimens.
Simplistic HairStyles   203
Simplistic HairStyles                                 204



                          Chapter Twelve:
                        Simplistic Home Perms


____________________________________________

Simplistic Home Perms
Before You Begin
The Process
Perming Bleached/Frosted Hair
____________________________________________

Some seventy five years ago, only the bravest of the
fair ventured into dungeon like beauty parlors to submit
to the tortures of Mr. Nesslers new-fangled invention
the permanent wave.

Swoons from the fumes were the order of the day, and
the heaters which hung down from the red-hot "Iron
Maiden" were so heavy only a few curls could be
administered at a time.

After a full day of exquisite agony, a lady made her way
into the light and took the first trolley or carriage home
to show off her newly-acquired scalp burns or perhaps
even a bald spot or two.

It was not at all unusual for a pad to be baked right on
Simplistic HairStyles                              205


the victim's hair. When this occurred, the highly
unskilled operator hit the heater with a hammer, and
then pried the pad loose with a nutcracker. Whether or
not the lady's hair came off with the pad was up to the
gods.

And for this valiantly acquired steel wool the ladies
gladly paid as much as one hundred dollars a curl.

Today, anyone who can read instructions and can set
her own hair can give herself a home permanent.

And just as there are salon permanents for every type
of hair so are there home permanents for normal, fine,
coarse and damaged hair.

Today's permanents are a treatment as well as a wave
and contain just about everything from milk, olive oil
and a vitamin called F to ingredients so secret only
their formulating chemists know exactly what they are.

There are "moisturizer" permanents to prevent dryness
and frizz, "protein" permanents to prevent brittleness
and breaks, and "low alkaline" permanents to "prevent
permanent-wave shock on frazzled hair which never
could have been waved before."

There are permanents for tinted hair, dyed hair,
bleached hair, and damaged hair, sun-bleached hair,
and even permanents for normal hair not to overlook
the omnipresent body permanent.
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Or as a spokesman for one of the three major
permanent wave manufacturers explains, "With forty
million women now coloring their hair, the industry has
had to change radically. A normal head of hair doesn't
exist anymore."

Fortunately, the principle of the permanent is a very
simple one. However, over the years I have seen hair
that has been damaged beyond recognition. You must
know the basics, whys, why not’s, how to’s before
receiving or giving a home permanent to yourself or
anyone else.

Note:
Too often, when the curl of permed hair loosens, it is
assumed that another perm is needed. However often
times this is not the case. You should be able to get two
good hair cuts out of a perm before it’s time to perm
again.

A lot of people believe a trim will cut out the perm. But
the fact is, just the opposite is true. A hair cut (or two)
between perms will “perk” up the perm. In most cases
your perm looks new again.

The reason is because as your hair grows, it weighs
your curl down, making it appear looser. By trimming
off the extra weight you can revive the curl and put off
another perm for an extra six, maybe even eight
weeks.
Simplistic HairStyles                               207


When the time is nearing for a new perm, squeeze the
most out of those curls as you can by using gel and
scrunching your hair as you blow it out with a diffuser.

Or get a “root” perm (perms new growth only) as
opposed to perming your whole head of hair.

Because perms can cause excessive damage, it is
important to use every option or resource available to
you before having another perm applied to your hair.

Also, use conditioner on a daily basis and NEVER,
ever brush permed hair. Always use a pick or your
fingers.

Perms are worn for many different reasons. To wear
curly, add body to naturally limp hair or even to help
remove excess oil from hair. No matter what your
reason if done correctly, perms can create beautiful
cascading curls without damage or frizz.

By carefully following the instructions below, giving
yourself or someone else a perm at home can come
out looking as natural as a salon perm. Just remember
to take your time and read the instructions carefully.



Before You Begin
When you should NOT Perm:
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    You have scalp abrasions / cuts.
    Your hair is seriously damaged from color, previous
    perms or highlighting.
    You have fragile, dry, brittle or over-porous hair.
    Your hair has recently been colored with a
    semi-permanent haircolor. (Semi-permanent color
    coats the surface of the hair and slows down
    penetration of the waving lotion).
    Your hair is colored with metallic salts. (Not a
    common concern) Example of hair color with
    metallic salts is Henna.


Essential Steps to a Nice Perm

√ A clarifying shampoo which            will   remove      all
  obstructive film from the hair.
√ Proper sectioning.
√ Correct wrapping with just the right amount of
  tension.
√ A thorough rinse to remove excess lotion.
√ A neutralizer to remove any leftover lotion and
  completely halt waving action.
√ A final, thorough rinse.



Beginning the Process
Simplistic HairStyles                               209


√ Read instructions carefully no matter how long
  you've been putting in your own permanent waves.
  Methods do change and improve. Don't improvise.
√ Always wait until your most recent color job is at
  least two weeks old.
√ Any scalp scratches, infections and irritations must
  first be healed.
√ Have hair cut and shaped before you permanent.
  Be sure all split ends are removed. Never
  permanent over an old wave.
√ Shampoo thoroughly and gently the night before to
  remove any styling product and dirt. These will act
  like coatings and prevent your permanent from
  penetrating evenly.
√ Rinse well. And wait at least three or four days after
  a new permanent before shampooing again.
√ Hair reflects your emotional and physical condition.
  Postpone a home permanent until after a cold or
  menstrual period. If your general health is poor, go
  to a salon.


Supplies Needed:
Shampoo
Perm rods
Perm solution
Rat tail comb
End papers
Cap or plastic bag
Simplistic HairStyles                                210


Cotton / Paper towels
Cape or Towel
Timer


Beginning Your Perm

    Remove ALL jewelry (the neck and above)

    Hair should be gently shampooed (preferably the
    night before) and left moist NOT soaking wet for
    wrapping.

    Begin rolling the hair as instructed in the method of
    wrapping you have chosen.

    Follow "How to roll the perm rods". These
    instructions apply to ALL methods of wrapping.

    Wrap the hair smoothly and WITHOUT stretching
    the hair.

    Comb each strand of hair at a 45 degree angle to
    place rod.

    Using your end wraps, COVER the ends of the hair
    (make sure hair is smooth, not bent or twisted) with
    the end paper.

    The band (on the perm rod) should not press into
    the hair near the scalp. This will cause hair
    breakage.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 211


Choosing Your Perm Rod Size

There are two factors you need to consider when
choosing the size of the perm rod.

1. The amount of curl you desire. The more curl, the
   smaller the rod size. For less curl you'll use a larger
   size rod.

2. If your hair has natural curl or natural body AND /
   OR your hair is color treated, you need to choose
   one size BIGGER than the amount of curl you
   desire.

(Hair with natural curl or body and color treated hair
curl quickly. If you're not careful; you'll end up with
more curl than you want.)

Note:
Coarse hair, with a more abundant supply of cortex the
hair's inner layer has a larger diameter than fine hair.
While coarse hair is initially more difficult to wave, it
requires a stronger permanent wave lotion, it eventually
takes a longer lasting curl, thanks to its ample cortex.

Fine hair requires only the gentlest of lotions, but curls
more rapidly because it lacks adequate cortex support.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 212


Small Rods (tight curls): These rods are not used too
often. They give an extremely tight curl.
Yellow
Blue
Pink

Medium Rods (medium curls): These rods are used
mostly on the areas of the head in which the most curl
is desired or where the curl doesn't last as long i.e. the
top or crown.
Gray
White

Large Rods (big curls): These are the most used perm
rods. They give big curls to just a wave.
Beige
Purple
Green
Orange
Black

You'll find your largest selection of perm rods at your
local or internet Beauty Supply Store.


Selecting A Perm Solution

Normal or Alkaline
For hair that has NOT been colored or highlighted or
hair that is resistant to curl (grey, coarse).
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Color Treated or Acid
For color treated, highlighted, fragile or easy to curl hair
(fine).


Methods of Wrapping

The Basic Wrap
The most commonly used wrap.

1. Start wrapping down from the crown to the nape
   (the center of the head).
2. Next, wrap the sides down from the top ending just
   above the ears.
3. Finally, wrap from the crown down towards the
   hairline on the forehead.


The Dropped Crown
Used for a smooth crown and no desire for height in
the crown. This method applies only to long layered or
one length hair.

1. Comb the hair straight down from the crown, in the
   back, to the area you want to begin your curl and
   begin wrapping at that point.
2. Part the hair on top in the middle. Comb down
   towards the ear. Begin wrapping the sides right
   above the ear.
Simplistic HairStyles                                       214


Spiral Wrap
Is used for medium to long hair to create tighter,
springy curls
Beginning on the top of the hair, roll the rods in a
vertical manner, using small sections of hair as you roll.
Continue to the sides, rolling in the same vertical
manner.


Special Wrapping Techniques
Directional Wrapping
Refers to the specific direction of the final style.

Example:
Should you part your hair to the left - Roll the perm
rods on the top of your hair towards the left and down
until you reach the ear.

Should you part your hair to the right - Roll the perm
rods on the top of your hair towards the right and down
until you reach the ear.

Partial Perms
Refers to perming only a section of a whole head of hair.

Example:
If you have a hair cut which is cut tight or shaved in the
nape (The Wedge Cut) you would only perm the top,
crown, and maybe the sides depending on the length.
Simplistic HairStyles                                215


Applying the Waving Lotion
Place cotton or rolled up paper towels around the
hairline. This will prevent the solution from dripping in
your eyes.

If you have sensitive skin you may want to apply a
barrier around the hairline with Vaseline or lotion
BEING CAREFUL NOT TO LET IT TOUCH THE HAIR.

Apply the waving lotion liberally to the top and
underside of each rod. (But not over saturating).

Start at the crown working your way down, then the
sides, then the top.


Testing for Curl
To check a test curl, unfasten a rod and carefully
unwind the curl about 1 1/2 turns of the rod. (Do not let
the hair become loose or unwind from the perm rod).

Hold the hair firmly by placing a thumb at each end of
the rod.

Move the rod gently toward the scalp so that the hair
falls loosely into the wave pattern. When you see a
definite "S" pattern, you've achieved the amount of curl
you desire.


Timing
In most cases you will follow the manufacturers timing
Simplistic HairStyles                               216


chart. However there are a couple exceptions:

Your hair is heavily highlighted.
In this case, start your timing at five minutes and
perform a test curl every two minutes thereafter until
you've achieved the desired curl result.

You have naturally curly hair or hair with wave and or
body.
In this case, start timing at seven minutes and then
every two minutes thereafter.


Rinsing
Rinse the curls with very warm water (not hot) for at
least 3 minutes (for short to shoulder length hair). The
longer your hair the longer you need to rinse. If your
hair is below the shoulder, rinse for five minutes.

Tip:
Use paper towels. They are more absorbent than a
regular towel and easier to work with because they are
not so bulky.


Neutralizing
Apply the neutralizer beginning at and following the
same pattern as you did for the perm solution.

Apply in the same manner; on top and underneath of
each rod.
Repeat the entire application a second time.
Simplistic HairStyles                                   217



Wait five minutes.

Remove all the perm rods gently without stretching or
pulling.

Work any remaining neutralizer through the hair.

Rinse the hair THOROUGHLY with warm water.



Perming Bleached/Frosted Hair
This, really, is a job best done in a salon. But if you feel
you must, or finances say you must do it yourself, allow
two weeks after you color before you give yourself a
perm, and then let another two weeks go by before you
color or bleach again.

Bleaching and coloring make hair extra porous and if a
home permanent is not correctly given it can result in
frizz.

√ Be sure your hair is well conditioned. Don't attempt
  to permanent if hair is rough and extraordinarily
  brittle.
√ Trim off the remains of any old permanent.
  Action may be faster as a result of increased
  porosity.
√ Postpone wave if hair changes color or if lotion
Simplistic HairStyles                                  218


    starts to curl hair within ten minutes. Rinse well with
    water to stop curling action. Permanent wave
    chemicals applied to coloring chemicals can break
    hair shaft off at the five inch mark.
√ Use a gentle lotion.


Now that you have both a permanent and haircolor
you must really coddle your hair.


After Perm Care

√ Avoid shampooing for two days, three is better.
  Your hair has just gone through a chemical change
  and needs those days to rest.
√ Avoid stretching or brushing excessively.
√ When drying, avoid pulling the hair with a brush.
√ When drying, avoid excessive heat. In fact, allow
  your hair to dry or close to dry, naturally.
Simplistic HairStyles   219
Simplistic HairStyles                                  220



                        Chapter Thirteen:
                          Hair Care Products


____________________________________________

Shampoo
Conditioner
Styling Products
__________________________________________



Keep a cool head when it comes to choosing your
styling products. You'd have to be a hair expert and a
chemist not to be completely confused by the
conflicting advertising claims of lotions, potions,
conditioners, egg shampoos, oil permanents, and just
about everything else that goes on top of the head
today. And the more you read and the more you listen,
the more confused you are likely to become.

Even through all the confusion, experts do agree upon
some things;

Today’s beauty products made by reputable firms are
basically good even if their claims are a little excessive.
No reputable firm will run the risk of merchandising an
inferior product. "It's misuse which risks havoc”.
Simplistic HairStyles                                 221


"Do you blame your butcher when you overcook a fine
steak?"

Discount fantastic claims. No one, for example, can cut
curl into your hair if it is not there to begin with. Read
labels and instructions carefully.

Buy small quantities of new products. Experiment until
you find the products which will do the
best job for you.

Finally, how do you choose the right product to meet
your hair needs? Following is a complete list that will
help you select the products formulated for your hair.



Shampoos
Conditioning / Moisturizing Shampoo
Contains at least one conditioning agent to add
moisture and add shine, making the hair smooth.
Who are they for?
People with dry, brittle or even chemically processed
hair.
What do they do?
Make the hair smooth, shiny and add moisture.
How to apply them…
It’s safe to use this shampoo daily however, it’s not
Simplistic HairStyles                                222


recommended to shampoo your hair daily. If you need
this type of shampoo chances are you need to let your
hair rest between shampoos in order to allow your
natural oils do their work. Test the waters, but three
shampoos a week should suffice.



Medicated Shampoo
In order to reduce excess dandruff, medicated
shampoos contain special chemicals or medicines.
They can be prescribed by a physician or purchased
over the counter depending on the severity of the
dandruff.

Tip:
Stay away from dandruff shampoos that contain;
•   Tar
•   Sodium lauryl sulfate
•   Tea lauryl sulfate
•   Sodium olefin sulfate
•   Alkyl sodium sulfate
•   Any shampoo that’s mostly made of plants or fruits

Who are they for?
People with dandruff or dry scalp.


What do they do?
Decrease or eliminate dandruff completely. Relieve
itchy scalp caused by dandruff.
Simplistic HairStyles                                   223


How to apply them…
Apply the shampoo as directed by your physician or
follow the instructions on the shampoo bottle.

Note:
If you find this type shampoo is not working, consult your
physician, you may a more serious medical problem.


Color or Highlighted Shampoo
Designed to enhance or enrich the color of your hair
whether your natural color or color treated hair. They
are slightly pigmented and are a gradual process.
Who are they for?
People who want to enrich the color of their natural
color or color treated hair.
What do they do?
Add color pigment to the hair shaft.
How to apply them…
Follow the directions on the product label. The more
often you shampoo with color enhancing shampoos the
more intense the color.


Clarifying Shampoo
Is formulated to clarify the hair of pollution, chlorine and
Styling Products. They can be used on ALL hair types
including, dry or chemically processed hair as long as
they’re used accordingly.
Simplistic HairStyles                                   224


For example: If your hair is oily, clarifying shampoo can
be used daily, if your hair is dry or chemically
processed, once or twice a month should be sufficient.
Remember when you have dry or chemically
processed hair to follow with a recommended
conditioner.
Who are they for?
People who want to get rid of product build up and for
oily hair.
What do they do?
Gently strip the hair of build up caused by products and
pollution.
How to apply them…
Daily for oily hair types, weekly for all other hair types.


Chemically Treated Hair Shampoo
Is for colored, permed, highlighted, bleached and
chemically straitened hair. These shampoos contain
ingredients to moisturize and strengthen hair that is
weakened by a chemical process.
Who are they for?
People who have chemically processed hair.
What do they do?
Add moisture and strengthen the hair.
How to apply them…
It’s safe to use this shampoo daily however, it’s not
Simplistic HairStyles                               225


recommended to shampoo your hair daily. If you need
this type of shampoo chances are you need to let your
hair rest between shampoos in order to allow your
natural oils do their work. Test the waters, but three
shampoos a week should suffice.


Straitening Shampoos
Contain ingredients specially formulated to help the
process of straightening your hair via blow drying or
using a straight iron.
Who are they for?
People who have naturally curly or wavy hair.
What do they do?
Help the process of straightening your hair via blow
dryer or straightening iron.
How to apply them…
Follow the directions on the product label.



Conditioners
Should you condition? If you have hair, then the
answer is “YES”.

Conditioners have gotten a bad wrap. And the reasons
are; the wrong type of conditioner is being used or they
are being used for the wrong reason.
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Reasons for using a conditioner

    Dry hair
    Prevention of static electricity
    As a detangler
    To rebuild damaged hair

Choosing the right conditioner is key. If you have
healthy hair you need a conditioner to prevent the “fly a
ways”, to detangle and to prevent static.


Dry hair
(Naturally curly or coarse hair)
Needs to be moisturized and repaired. Use a
conditioner that states it’s for dry hair and follow the
directions for use.


Damaged hair
(Chemically processed or heat appliance damage)

Needs to be rebuilt from the inside out. Choose a
heavy, deep conditioner, one that you leave on your
hair for at least 5 up to 20 minutes.


Normal and oily hair
Needs to be conditioned too. Neither need to be
conditioned at the root to mid shaft areas however from
mid shaft to the ends, no matter what your hair type
need protection from the natural and unnatural
Simplistic HairStyles                                   227


elements.

The number one reason I hear as to why people don’t
like using a conditioner?

“It weighs my hair down.”

Do you want to know a little secret?...

There is no conditioner in this world that will weigh your
hair down. However your hair may be weighted down
when conditioned if it’s not properly rinsed or the
correct conditioner is not used.

So be careful to choose the correct conditioner and
then rinse, rinse and rinse some more. Don’t be afraid
of rinsing too much. You can’t over rinse. The fact is,
your hair is as intelligent as you are, it uses only what it
needs and that’s it.

Don’t believe me? Next time you put (the correct)
conditioner on your hair, rinse it out thoroughly, I
guarantee you will not have limp hair!

Conditioners come in all the same varieties as
shampoo and can serve the same purpose.

Rule of thumb is to use a conditioner formulated to
work with your shampoo. This is not written in stone
however.
Simplistic HairStyles                                   228


For example, you might use a color shampoo but follow
up with a conditioner best suited for your hair type as
opposed to using a color enhancing conditioner.

Using both color enhancing shampoo and conditioner
together may or may not be overkill.

The same principles of shampoo selection apply for
conditioner as well.



Styling Products
How much and what type of product should you use?

How much is determined by what type of product
you’re using. The lighter the product, the more you
should use.

Mousses are very light, a little bigger than the size of a
golf ball will do the trick (unless your hair is very short,
then use less). Concentrate on the roots if volume is
your desired final result.

Gels and pomades are heavier products, about a
teaspoon or a little less depending on the length of your
hair, more for longer hair, less for shorter.

Shine or gloss. Use these sparingly. One or two drops
should do the trick. Do not apply gloss to the roots but
to the shaft and ends only.
Simplistic HairStyles                                    229


Now let’s talk about styling products individually.


Gels
Who are they for?
Fine to medium textured hair.
What do they do?
Add volume
How to apply them…
    For lift, apply to the roots. Blow dry hair, lifting hair
    as it dries.
    For crisp curls, apply sparingly to a strand of dry
    hair, then curl with an iron or set with a hot roller.
    Repeat until all hair is curled.
    To slick hair back, apply gel sparingly to wet hair.
    Comb back. Allow to air dry without combing again.


Hair Spray
Who are they for?
All hair types.
What do they do?
Give light to extra firm hold for keeping the hair in
place. Finishing sprays dry slower allowing you to work
with the style before it “sets”.

Add shine (Finishing sprays)
Simplistic HairStyles                              230


How to apply them…
Select a spray by the desired amount of hold, to
increase shine or subdue frizz then use accordingly.


Pomades, Glossers and Shiners
Who are they for?
Pomades are best for people with thick or curly hair
who desire smooth, sleek styles or for very curly hair.
What do they do?
    Add shine
    Allow the hair to be slicked back
    Smooth frizzies
How to apply them…
SPARINGLY!
Liquefy the product between your palms and smooth it
over the surface of your hair.


Volumizers
Who are they for?
People with fine, limp hair.
What do they do?
Add body and volume to the hair.
How to apply them…
Volumizing products come in many forms from
shampoo and conditioner to gels, mousse and creams.
Simplistic HairStyles                               231


Apply according to the directions on the product.


Thickeners
Who are they for?
Hair that lacks body
What do they do?
They add more volume than volumizing products,
however with every pro, seems to follow a con.
Thickeners create a “matte” look as opposed to
volumizing products that give more shine. Adding a
spritz of shine to the completed style helps deter this.
How to apply them…
Thickeners are heat activated and will not work without
the heat of a blow dryer.

From underneath the hair starting at the nape, comb
the product through evenly in an upward direction.

Blow your hair upside down until almost dry. Flip your
head up to complete styling.


Waxes
Who are they for?
Medium to dense hair ~ Very short hair with lots of
layers that can be styled in many directions ~ Any
clipper cut style.
Simplistic HairStyles                                     232


What do they do?
Give a hard, stiff finish
How to apply them…
Rub between the palms of your hands then apply to all
of your hair or just “spot” apply where you want more
definition i.e. sideburns, lift roots straight up for spiking.
Simplistic HairStyles   233
Simplistic HairStyles                                234



                        Chapter Fourteen:
                         Homemade Products

____________________________________________

Homemade Products
Oily Hair
Dry Hair
Normal Hair
Chemically Treated Hair
____________________________________________



You don’t have to buy hair care products at retail prices
to get shinny, healthy hair. Hidden on the shelves of
your pantry or shoved in the back of your refrigerator,
common household foods, beverages and condiments
linger that work just as well than the store bought
brands.



Oily Hair
Peppermint Tea Rinse
1 Peppermint tea bag steeped in 8 oz water
On clean, wet hair, rinse with peppermint tea rinse. Do
not rinse out.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  235


Apple Cider Rinse
2 tbsp. apple cider vinegar
1c. Distilled or regular water

On clean, wet hair, rinse hair with apple cider mixture
thoroughly. Rinse out with regular tepid water.
Condition your ends.


Lemon Rinse
½ lemon
2c. distilled or regular water

Squeeze lemon in water. Pour thru clean, towel dried
hair. Rinse out with regular tepid water. Condition your
ends.



Dry Hair
Egg Shampoo
1 Egg

Crack egg and beat lightly. Use the mixture to
shampoo hair. Rinse thoroughly and condition.


Mayonnaise Hair Pack
1c. Regular Mayonnaise

Apply liberally to clean, towel dried hair. Place a plastic
bag or plastic wrap over your hair. Allow mayonnaise to
Simplistic HairStyles                                236


penetrate for 30 minutes. Remove bag shampoo and
condition your hair.


Olive Oil Conditioner
1c. Olive Oil

Apply to clean, towel dried hair (about 2” from scalp to
ends) Place a plastic bag or plastic wrap over your hair.
Allow oil to penetrate the hair for 10 minutes. *Apply
heat (warm, moist towel) if desired. Rinse well, then
shampoo until squeaky clean, and condition.


Avocado Moisturizer
1 ripe avocado

Mash in a bowl or puree in a blender. Apply to clean,
towel dried hair. Allow avocado to penetrate for 20-30
minutes. Rinse well and then condition.



Normal Hair
Lemon Rinse
½ lemon
2 c. distilled or regular water
Squeeze lemon in water. Pour thru clean, towel dried
hair. Rinse out with regular tepid water. Condition your
ends.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  237


Chemically Treated Hair
Hair Pomade
1 c. olive oil
½ c. beeswax
1 tbsp. coconut oil

Melt ingredients over low heat. Pour in heat proof
container. Place a pea sized amount of the pomade in
the palm of one hand. Rub your hands together to
distribute the pomade and rub lightly into the ends of
the hair. Do not rinse.


Egg Shampoo
1 Egg

Crack egg and beat lightly. Use the mixture to
shampoo hair. Rinse thoroughly and condition.


Mayonnaise Hair Pack
1 c. Regular Mayonnaise

Apply liberally to clean, towel dried hair. Place a plastic
bag or plastic wrap over your hair. Allow mayonnaise to
penetrate for 30 minutes. Remove bag shampoo and
condition your hair.


Olive Oil Conditioner
1 c. Olive Oil
Simplistic HairStyles                                238


Apply to clean, towel dried hair (about 2” from scalp to
ends) Place a plastic bag or plastic wrap over your hair.
Allow oil to penetrate the hair for 10 minutes. *Apply
heat (warm, moist towel) if desired. Rinse well, then
shampoo until squeaky clean, and condition.


Avocado Moisturizer
1 ripe avocado

Mash in a bowl or puree in a blender. Apply to clean,
towel dried hair. Allow avocado to penetrate for 20-30
minutes. Rinse well and then condition.
Simplistic HairStyles   239
Simplistic HairStyles                              240



                        Chapter Fifteen:
                                 Hair Removal


____________________________________________

Hair Removal
Permanent Hair Removal
Temporary Hair Removal
____________________________________________



Although no one knows the exact cause of excess hair,
scientists believe hormonal imbalance and heredity
play a big part. Other factors may cause excessive
growth including; pregnancy and certain drugs.
Excessive hair is a problem for both men and women
alike.

Removing excess hair can be done painlessly and
effectively, with many forms of removal available. Here
we’ll go over two general categories of removal
temporary and permanent.
Simplistic HairStyles                                  241


Permanent Hair Removal
Electrolysis
Unlike other hair removal methods, professionally
performed electrolysis eliminates all unwanted hair
permanently with unsurpassed results. Moreover, it
does so for all skin and hair types.


The Electrolysis technician you choose should have
considerable training and skill so thoroughly investigate
by asking friends, neighbors, even your family doctor
for recommendations.


How it is performed…
A hair thin metal probe is slid into the hair follicle. At
that point electricity is delivered to the follicle through
the probe, which causes damage to the hair follicle
preventing any re-growth of hair.


Facts about Electrolysis:

    Electrology is the only way to achieve permanent
    hair removal.
    Most areas of the body can be treated with
    electrolysis, including the eyebrows, face, thighs,
    abdomen, breasts, and legs.
    Sometimes, a slight reddening of the skin occurs
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    during or immediately after treatment, but this will
    only last for a short time. There are no permanent
    side effects with electrolysis.
    Deep, coarse hairs cannot always be eliminated
    with one treatment.
    The number of treatments necessary varies with
    each client.
    Not a good choice of hair removal for large amounts
    of hair.
    Can be painful
    Can be expensive


Electrolysis can be used on the following areas of
the body;

     Upper lip
     Chin
     Cheeks
     Arms and Legs
     Eyebrows
     Underarms
     Bikini line
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Permanent Hair Reduction
(Does not permanently remove all hair, but does reduce the
amount of visible hair)

The use of the phrase "permanent removal" is not permitted
for any laser whatsoever. Most consumers understand
"permanent" to mean that the hair will stop growing forever.
However the FDA permits the use of "permanent" as long as
the laser reduces some visibility growing hairs for as short a
time as one growth cycle (a matter of a few months for most
body parts). In fact, many clinical studies have shown the
rate of hair re-growth from laser epilation to be only slightly
slower than from traditional methods. No long term clinical
studies (i.e., follow-up greater than 12 months) have been
done to test the true permanency of laser hair removal.


Laser Removal
Laser hair removal is not for everyone. In fact there are
few select types of people who can have this procedure
done. (Clients hair must be darker than the skin
surrounding it).

Light skin makes laser hair removal easier to perform.
Fewer treatments are required, and better, faster
results are obtained.

People with darker skin can be treated, but results are
slower, more sessions are required, and greater
expertise is required on the part of the Laser
Technician.
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I would suggest considering yourself out of the laser
“loop” if any of the following apply to you:

Your pigmentation is dark
You are tanning (via the sun or tanning bed) and have
light or dark hair


How it’s performed…
A laser beam is set at just the right laser light energy
setting for you, and then concentrated on the area of
excess hair to be removed. This causes damage to the
hair follicle (where the hair grows from) potentially
enabling re-growth.

It feels very much like a rubber band being snapped on
your skin. Some clients, depending on their
pigmentation may feel a little more discomfort. Also,
some areas of the body are more sensitive than others.

The procedure takes anywhere from a few minutes up
to 45 minutes depending on how large the area.

Some minor after effects may be; swelling and
discomfort that lasts usually no more than a day.



Facts about Laser Hair Removal:

    It’s safe if performed correctly, if not done properly,
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    it can case burns, discoloration (lasting several
    months) or patchy re-growth.
    A great method of removal for large areas of hair.
    If there is re-growth, it very often comes back in a
    finer texture or even a lighter color.
    It’s not as effective on gray, red or blonde hair.
    People with dark skin or who tan often should
    consider other forms of hair removal.
    Can be expensive.
    Can be painful.
    Can be a gamble because even good candidates
    for this type of removal do not respond to treatment.
    Often requires multiple treatments.




Temporary Hair Removal Methods
Shaving
The most common form of hair removal with no wonder
it is also the easiest, yet such a tedious chore.

Your most common razors, such as “Bic” are best used
for the arms, legs and underarms. But when you’re
shaving more sensitive areas it is best to use shavers
designed with these sensitive areas in mind.
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Tweezing
Most commonly used for the eyebrows and “straggly”
hairs on the body. It’s performed by metal forceps used
manually to pull hairs out by the root, one or a few at a
time. The advantage to tweezing is it’ll help you out in a
quick pinch (Ouch!, maybe not the right choice of
words)

Everyone should have a set of tweezers in their
medicine cabinet. Even if you use other forms of hair
removal, it’s always nice to have a pair on hand for that
last minute or unforeseen “pluck or tweeze”.


Instructions for Professional Tweezing
Eyebrows can have a big effect on your appearance.
(Take Brooke Shields for example). It’s important to
know how to correctly shape your brows.

Most people have stray hairs above and below the
brow. These need to be removed in order to shape the
brow.


Before tweezing, here are a few things to consider
when shaping the brows.

Close set eyes ~ Widen the distance of the brows to
make the eyes appear farther apart.

Round face ~ Arch the brows high to make the face
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appear narrower.

Oblong face ~ By making the brows almost straight it
fives the illusion of a shorter face.

Triangular face ~ to offset a narrow forehead, arch the
eyebrows slightly on the ends only.

Square face ~ the face will appear more oval if there is
a high arch on the ends of the eyebrows.


How to tweeze:

1. Soften the brows and the brow area by applying a
   hot towel for one to three minutes.

2. Stretch the skin taut with the index finger and
   thumb. Grasp each hair individually with tweezers
   and pull with a quick motion in the direction in which
   the hair grows.

3. Begin by removing the hair between the brows.

4. Then remove the hairs from above the eyebrow.

5. Now remove the hairs from under the eyebrow.
   Brush the hair upwards. Shape both brows with
   scissors if necessary.

6. When you’re finished, sponge the brows and
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    surrounding skin with astringent to contract the skin.

To maintain nice brows, tweezing should be done
about one time a week.


Correct points for eyebrow arching:

Height Point

                        End of Brow



Begin



Hot Wax
One of the few ancient, temporary methods still
commonly used today.


How to:

1. Carefully apply to the area where hair is to be
   removed.
2. Place a strip of cloth over the wax and gently press
   down and rub.
3. Quickly pull the strip away in the opposite direction
   of hair growth.
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The Advantages to Hot Wax…
    You can do it yourself at home
    It’s inexpensive and…
    Fast


The Disadvantages to Hot Wax…
Aside from the advantages, I’m going to be honest, hot
wax is one of my least favorite methods of hair removal
because...

    It hurts!
    It’s messy
    It actually makes the area of skin that is frequently
    waxed become less soft
    Sometimes the hair that re-grows is stronger
    because it stimulates the circulation and increases
    the blood supply to the hair follicle.


Foam, Lotion, Mousse and Roll On Wax
Removal Methods
The theory is; shaving leaves a sharp edge behind so
when your hair begins to re-grow it feels rough and is
stubbly. The fact is, no matter how experienced you
are, shaving with a razor can lead to nicks, cuts and
razor bumps.
The Advantages to Lotions:
    They’re simple to use
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The Disadvantages to Hot Wax:
    They smell bad
    They can be very messy

Your choice of a hair removal method is a personal
one. Take the pro’s and con’s into consideration, and
then decide which method of hair removal is best for
you.
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Simplistic HairStyles                                252



                         Chapter Sixteen
                                         Hair Loss


____________________________________________

Hair Loss
Genetic Reasons for Hair Loss
Non Genetic Reasons for Hair Loss
Resources and Additional Information
____________________________________________

Your part seems wider, your forehead higher, and you
have sizeable bald areas? Your hair is coming out in
clumps? Try first a rigorous hair health routine:
massage, deep conditioning treatments (unless your
scalp is oily), thorough but gentle cleansing, and a well
balanced diet.

Especially vital to hair and scalp health are proteins,
fats (but only in prescribed amounts), Vitamins A and C
(all to be found in green and yellow vegetables), lean
meat, milk, bread, cereal and citrus fruits.

See too, if regional or patchy baldness might not be
caused by a tight pony tail, chignon, or a part which
hasn't been changed in years.
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If neither health routine nor a change in hairstyle
improves your condition, be sure to see your doctor.

Once almost exclusively a male headache, hair today
and gone tomorrow has become a steadily increasing
female problem.

Fifteen to twenty percent of the feminine population is
now struggling with alopecia (baldness) in just about
every possible form from annoying pink spots to out
and out bald pates.

Why?

Psychiatrists and physicians blame this unattractive
condition on just about everything from over coloring
and over perming to the death wish.

Authorities list as causative factors: wearing hats, not
wearing hats; too much sexual indulgence, too little;
rough and careless brushing; too frequent hair washing
and too infrequent. Hair mite or plugged hair follicles?
Only theories. No one has ever been able to prove
them as fact.

Notice a pattern? They’re ALL theories. The fact is, no
one knows EXACTYLY the reason for hair loss. But
what we do know as fact is this:

Approximately ten percent of your hair is in a “resting”
phase all of the time, after two to three months, the
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resting hair falls out and new hair begins to grow in its
place. The new hair will grow for two to six years at
which time the cycle (grow, rest, fall out) begins again.
It is not uncommon to shed up to one hundred hairs
every day.

Scientists believe 95% of abnormal hair loss is caused
by heredity. The gene can be inherited from either or
both sides of the family (not just your mothers as once
believed), although there are different causes for hair
loss other than heredity or genes.

Hair loss can begin as early as the teen years, but on
average occurs by the age of 40. Although it’s
extremely rare for a woman to go completely bald,
extreme thinning of the hair is more common than you
probably think.

Hair loss can be extremely hard on ones self esteem,
leaving you with feelings of helplessness, anxiety and
worst of all, socially phobic.

When abnormal hair loss is noticed, it’s extremely
important to pinpoint the reason as soon as possible to
increase the chances of successfully stopping the loss.

Enlist the help of your family doctor, or a dermatologist
and educate yourself of the causes of hair loss in order
to choose the best remedy to prevent
further loss and restore new growth.
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Genetic Causes of Hair Loss
Premature Alopecia:
Occurs in relatively young people. Heredity and familial
tendencies seem to be responsible. The condition is
slowly progressive and the prognosis for return of hair
is poor.

Senile Alopecia:
This is a part of natural attrition. Hair is lost slowly and
symmetrically. Prognosis for return of hair is poor, but,
occasionally, the process can be retarded.


Alopecia Following Seborrheic Dermatitis:
The cause of seborrhea is not known but it tends to be
hereditary. It comes in two forms, oily and dry
(dandruff) . Baldness is much more frequent following
dry dandruff. Prognosis is poor for return of lost hair but
good for arrest of the condition.




Non Genetic Causes of Hair Loss
Emotional Alopecia:
Baldness sometimes follows severe emotional trauma.
The outlook is best when the condition has not been
one of long duration. Hair comes back first as soft
down and is followed by normal and sometimes un-
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pigmented hair.


Traumatic Alopecia:
Caused by repetitive pulling of the hair or excessive
chemical processes, usually reversed once the
condition or situation is resolved.


Alopecia Areata:
The development of patches of baldness, that is
usually in small, circular areas of the scalp. Scientists
believe it is autoimmune where the body attacks itself -
in this case specifically the papilla/bulb area of the hair
follicle.

Alopecia Areata usually affects young adults, and
occurs just as often in men as in woman. About 80% of
people with Alopecia Areata will eventually re-grow
most, if not all, of their hair. The down side is, many
people, will have recurrent battles with this condition.

A severe form of Alopecia Areata is the total loss of
scalp hair (Alopecia Totalis) and even sometimes the
complete loss of all body hair (Alopecia Universalis).
About 33% of those afflicted with these rare problems
will grow back all their hair within a year, though again,
recurrences do occur.


Traction Alopecia and Trichotillomania:
Traction alopecia commonly occurs in people who
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braid or knot their hair frequently. Obviously this can be
resolved by wearing hairstyles that don’t require
pulling, tugging and braiding.


Patchy Alopecia:
When hair comes out in clumps from specific areas of
the scalp, this is patchy baldness. It may be caused by
a scalp infection or the way you wear your hair. Avoid
extreme      hairstyles    which    require   excessive
manipulation. Prognosis is good in the young but poor
in the old.


Toxic Alopecia:
Follows serious illnesses (typhoid, flu, TB). Drugs
containing thallium, tin and arsenic also provoke
temporary baldness. Prognosis for return of hair in both
cases is good.

During and after pregnancy, too, most women notice a
change in the quantity as well as the quality of their
hair. Some find they lose hair, others discover a
luxurious growth for the first time in their lives. But
fortunately and unfortunately, this is a temporary
condition.


Diffused Alopecia:
General rather than localized, it may be caused by
rough bristles, harsh detergents, diet, or emotional
conflict.
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Shedding:
Premature shedding happens in the hairs resting
phase. Many common causes are: childbirth, shock,
drug use, serious illness, anesthesia, coming off of
birth control pills or dieting with too little protein. This
type of loss is usually reversed once the condition or
situation is resolved.



Resources and Information on Hair
Loss
Propecia
For most men, Propecia increases the number of scalp
hairs in the first year of treatment, helping to fill in thin
or balding areas of the scalp. In addition, men taking
Propecia may note a slowing of hair loss.

For more information on Propecia:
www.Propecia.com

Rogaine
Rogaine is a liquid, not a medication. To achieve
lasting results you have to use Rogaine for at least four
months.

Rogaine works by enlarging the hair follicles and
stimulating hair re-growth. It contains 2% or 5%
minoxidil which is used for revitalizing the hair follicles,
which may lead to hair regeneration. It comes in two
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formulas        for     both   men    and      women.

For more information on Rogain:
www.Rogain.com



Saw Palmetto Extract
Saw Palmetto helps revive hair follicles, improves hair
strength, body and shine, and makes your scalp less
sensitive to stress and irritation.

Recently Saw Palmetto received recognition in the
areas of men's health and women's health both as
preventative remedy and to combat most forms of
Alopecia.

For more information on Saw Palmetto Extract:
http://www.sawpalmettouses.com/baldness.html



Nioxin
Each product line is formulated to create and maintain
a healthy scalp while promoting stronger hair and
possibly encourage re-growth.

For more information on Nioxin:
www.Nioxin.com

For more information on Wigs / "Add Ons"/
Extensions:
www.HairAddOns.com
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www.WowWigs.com
www.BeautyTrends.com



Hair Loss Forums
www.hairlosshelp.com/forums/
www.hairlosstalk.com/discussions/
www.topix.net/forum/health/hair-loss



General Hair Loss Resources

An independently run, privately owned consumer hair
loss information site focused exclusively on treatments
backed by clinical evidence. This is your community,
so join us and get the support you need.

www.HairlossTalk.com

Hair Loss and Children
http://kidshealth.org/teen/diseases_conditions/skin
/hair_loss.html
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                        Chapter Seventeen:
                                  Fun Hair Facts


Scientists tell us hair is as strong as aluminum, can hold one
third its weight in absorbed moisture and can be stretched to
one and a half times its length, when wet.



If all the hair on your head were woven into a rope it would
support a suspended weight of 2,000 pounds.



Redheads, by the way, have a longer bleeding time than
brunettes or blondes, which is why doctors make special
preparations for carrot tops in childbirth.



It grows faster in summer than winter, and faster by day than
by night.



Because neither your nails nor your hair are composed of
living cells they are considered "dead," which is why you
can cut both hair and nails and feel no pain.

Why do some people have curly hair as babies but not as
adults? With growth, the scalp expands and the shape of the
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follicle is sometimes changed. Illness may also cause the
scalp to expand and contract.



At any one time 90% of your hair is growing. That same
90% will grow for about 4 to 6 years. If it’s not cut in that
time; it will have reached its maximum length. At the same
time 10% of your hair is “resting”, preparing to fall out to
make room for new hair.



Gray hair is the result of your hair no longer producing
melanin (The substance which gives hair its natural color).
What contributes to this?

    Heredity
    Stress
    Birth control pills
    Dieting


The natural color of your hair determines how thick your
hair will be. From thickest to thinnest is as follows:

    Blonde (Thickest)
    Brown
    Black
    Red (Thinnest)

This doesn’t mean red hair is “thin”, it just means there are
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fewer hairs per square inch.



Drinking lots of water can prevent your hair from looking
dull, limp or oily.



To find a product that adds shine to your hair, look for the
word “silicone” in the ingredients.



Pulling out 1 gray hair does NOT cause 7 to grow back.
What it will do however is cause damage to the
root preventing any other hairs to grow back. I don’t know
about you but I would rather have gray hair that I can color,
than be bald!



It’s best not to have your hair permed, colored, cut or styled
a few days before or during your period. Because of higher
levels of estrogen, hair color and perms may not turn out as
well.

So why not have it cut or styled?

Your scalp is super sensitive during this time. Having your
hair done is supposed to be a pleasurable experience, not
sheer TORTURE!hh

Your hair and nails are both made of the same things,
protein and keratin. So give your nails the same treatment
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you would your hair. Condition them! (With lotion)



If you do not condition your hair every time you shampoo,
your hair will try to get the moisture it needs from anywhere
it can, including the environment, which results in the
“frizzies”.



Conditioning you hair will close the cuticle preventing this
from happening. It will also add the moisture that your hair
needs.
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                    Hair Galleries
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