Paris Travel Guide By Offbeat Guides

Back Page EmErgEncy numbErs Police: 17 or 112 Medical: More severe 15 or 112, Less severe 18 or 112 Fire Department: 18 or 112 112 calls are answered by 15 or 18 dispatchers, depending on the caller’s location. ExchangE ratE $1 U.S. Dollar is €0.643 Euro $5 U.S. Dollar is €3.215 Euro $10 U.S. Dollar is €6.43 Euro $20 U.S. Dollar is €12.86 Euro $50 U.S. Dollar is €32.15 Euro $100 U.S. Dollar is €64.3 Euro €1 Euro is $1.5551 U.S. Dollar €5 Euro is $7.7755 U.S. Dollar €10 Euro is $15.551 U.S. Dollar €20 Euro is $31.102 U.S. Dollar €50 Euro is $77.755 U.S. Dollar €100 Euro is $155.51 U.S. Dollar timE ZonE Paris is in the UTC+1 time zone. That’s 9 hours ahead of Atherton. 8:00 AM in Atherton is 5:00 PM (the same day) in Paris. 8:00 AM in Paris is 11:00 PM (the next day) in Atherton. tiPPing Policy Taxi: Round Up Restaurant: 5 - 10% Porter: $1 per bag ElEctricity standard, Plug rEquirEmEnts Type C plugs may be found on some appliances, and will fit the Type E outlet. Type C outlets may be found in older buildings. Type A may be found in older buildings but is illegal. The electrical current in France is 230 V, 50 Hz alternating current (AC); Type E: Round pin plug and receptacle with male grounding pin WEathEr ForEcast Sun, Jun 01 H: 69°F, L: 61°F Mon, Jun 02 H: 72°F, L: 55°F Tue, Jun 03 H: 63°F, L: 53°F Wed, Jun 04 H: 68°F, L: 53°F Thu, Jun 05 H: 65°F, L: 48°F English PhrasE guidE Hello: Bonjour (bohng-ZHOOR) Thank you: Merci (mehr-SEE) Please: S’il vous plaît (seell voo PLEH) Excuse me (begging pardon): Pardon, Excusezmoi (pahr-DOHNG, ehks-kuu-zay MWAH) Goodbye: Au revoir (oh RVWAHR) Do you speak English?: Parlez-vous anglais? (PAHR-lay VOOZ ahng-LEH?) How much is a ticket to _____?: Combien coûte le billet pour _____? (kom-BYAN koot luh bee-LAY poor) Where is the _____?: Où se trouve _____? (oo stroov _____) Take me to _____, please: Déposez-moi à _____, je vous prie (DAY-poh-zay-MWAH ah _____, zhuh voo PREE) How much is this?: Combien ça coûte? (COMMbee-yen SAH coot) Is this a guillotine?: Est-ce que c’est une guillotine? (ess-keh-sehtoon-gee-yo-teen?) An up-to-date travel guide prepared for MichaeL arrington Paris Pa r i s, J u n 1 7– J u n 2 5, 2 0 0 8 Maps Weather What to do Where to go Lodging dining The travel guide made just for MichaeL arrington Copyright 2008, Offbeat Guides contents Maps Paris Region View Paris City View Paris Neighborhood View Paris Street View Paris Districts History By plane By train By bus By car On foot By métro By boat On Skates By bicycle By taxi Talk See Landmarks Museums and galleries Do Events Movies Learn Work Buy Flea Markets Musical Instruments Artwork Eat Self catering Some specialities Prices Kosher dining Vegetarian dining Tourists and locals 8 8 10 12 14 16 16 19 21 23 25 25 26 27 30 30 30 32 33 35 36 37 38 40 41 42 42 43 44 44 45 45 47 47 47 48 48 49 Drink Sleep Hotel Chains Crime Respect Contact Cope Get out Paris/1st arrondissement Understand Get in By ‘’Métro’’ Get Around Landmarks Museums and Galleries Do Buy Eat Budget Mid-Range Splurge Drink Sleep Contact Internet Cafés Wireless Hotspots Paris/2nd arrondissement ‘’By Métro’’ Museums etc. Architecture History The Galleries Other Shops Budget Mid-Range Drink Contact Paris/3rd arrondissement ’’By Métro’’ 49 52 53 53 55 57 57 58 60 60 60 60 61 62 63 65 65 66 66 66 67 67 69 69 69 69 71 71 71 71 72 72 73 73 73 74 74 75 75 See Buy Eat Drink Budget Mid-Range Contact Paris/4th arrondissement Get in By Car By Metro By bus Get around Landmarks Museums and Galleries Do Buy Eat Drink Sleep Budget Mid-Range Contact Paris/5th arrondissement ’’By Métro’’ ’’By Bus’’ Landmarks Museums and Galleries Religious buildings Buy Eat Drink Budget Mid-Range Contact Paris/6th arrondissement ’’By Métro’’ Landmarks Museums and Galleries 75 76 76 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 79 80 80 80 82 83 83 84 86 87 87 87 88 90 90 90 91 91 92 92 93 94 96 97 98 99 99 99 100 Buy Eat Cafés Bars Mid-Range Splurge Contact Paris/7th arrondissement By Métro/RER By boat Landmarkes Museums and Galleries Other attractions Do Buy Budget Mid-Range Splurge Drink Contact Paris/8th arrondissement Landmarks Museums and Galleries Eat Drink Mid-Range Splurge Contact Paris/9th arrondissement ’’By Métro’’ Museums and Galleries Do Buy Eat Drink Budget Mid-Range Splurge Contact 100 100 101 102 102 102 103 104 104 104 104 105 106 106 106 106 107 107 107 107 108 108 109 109 110 110 110 111 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 116 116 Paris, France 7 Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 8 paris region View Created for michael arrington Paris, France 9 Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 10 paris city View Created for michael arrington Paris, France 11 Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 12 paris neighborhood View Created for michael arrington Paris, France 13 Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 14 paris street View Created for michael arrington Paris, France 15 Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 16 paris Paris , the cosmopolitan capital of France, is - with 2.2 million people living in zone 1 (Central Paris) and another 9.9 million people in the suburbs (la banlieue) - one of the largest cities in Europe. Located in the north of the country on the river Seine, Paris has the reputation of being the most beautiful and romantic of all cities, brimming with historic associations and remaining vastly influential in the realms of culture, art, fashion, food and design. Dubbed the City of Light (la Ville Lumière), it is the most popular tourist destination in the world. districts Central Paris is officially divided into 20 districts called arrondissements, numbered from 1 to 20 in a clockwise spiral from the center of the city (known as Kilometre Zero and is located at the front of Notre Dame). Arrondissements are named according to their number. You might, for example, stay in the “5th”, which would be written as 5e (SANK-eeemm) in French. The 12th and 16th arrondissements include large suburban parks, the Bois de Vincennes, and the Bois de Boulogne respectively. The very best map you can get for Paris is called “Paris Pratique par Arrondissement” which you can buy for about €2 at any news stand. It makes navigating the city easy- so much that one can imagine that the introduction of such map-books might be part of what made the arrondissement concept so popular in the first place. Each arrondissement has its own unique character and selection of attractions for the traveler: ■■ 1st (1er). The geographical center of Paris and a great starting point for travelers. The Musée Louvre, the Jardin des Tuileries, Place du Vendôme, Les Halles, Palais Royal, Comédie- Created for michael arrington Paris, France 17 Française, and Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel are all to be found here. ■■ 2nd (2e). The central business district of the city - the Bourse (the Paris Stock Exchange), Opéra-Comique, Théâtre des Variétés, Passage des Panoramas, Théâtre des Bouffes Parisiens and the Bibliothèque Nationale are located here. ■■ 3rd (3e). Archives Nationales, Musée Carnavalet, Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers, Musée Carnavalet, Hôtel de Soubise, the Former Temple fortress, and the northern, quieter part of the Marais can be found here. ■■ 4th (4e). Notre-Dame de Paris, the Hôtel de Ville (Paris town hall), Hôtel de Sully, Rue des Rosiers and the Jewish Quartier, Beaubourg, Le Marais, Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville, Centre Georges Pompidou, Place de Vosges, Bibliothèque de l’Arsenal, Saint-Jacques Tower and Parisian island Île SaintLouis can be found here. ■■ 5th (5e). Jardin des Plantes, Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, Musée de Cluny, The Panthéon, Quartier Latin, Universités, La Sorbonne, Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, Église Saint-Séverin, La Grande Mosquée, Le Musée de l’AP-HP can be located here. ■■ 6th (6e). Jardin du Luxembourg as well as its Senat, Place Saint-Michel, Église Saint-Sulpice and Saint-Germain des Prés can be found here. ■■ 7th (7e). Tour Eiffel and its Parc du Champ de Mars, Les Invalides, Musée d’Orsay, Assemblée Nationale and its subset administrations, Ecole Militaire, and Parisian mega-store Le Bon Marchee can be found here. ■■ 8th (8e). Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, Place de la Concorde, le Palais de l’Elysée, Église de la Madeleine,JacquemartAndre Museum, Gare Saint-Lazare, Grand Palais and Petit Palais can be found here. ■■ 9th (9e). Opéra Garnier, Galeries Lafayette, Musée Grévin, and Folies Bergère can be found here. ■■ 10th (10e). Canal Saint-Martin, Gare du Nord, Gare de l’Est, Port Saint-Denis, Port Saint-Martin, Passage Brady, Passage Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 18 du Prado, and Église Saint-Vincent-de-Paul can be found here. ■■ 11th (11e). The bars and restaurants of Rue Oberkampf, Bastille, Nation, New Jewish Quarter, Cirque d’Hiver, and Église Saint-Ambroise can be found here. ■■ 12th (12e). Opéra Bastille, Bercy Park and Village, Promenade Plantée, Quartier d’Aligre, Gare de Lyon, Cimetière de Picpus, Viaduc des arts the Bois de Vincennes, and the Zoo de Vincennes can be found here. ■■ 13th (13e). Quartier la Petite Asie, Place d’Italie, La Butte aux Cailles, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (BNF), Gare d’Austerlitz, Manufacture des Gobelins, Butte-aux-Cailles and Pitié-Salpêtrière Hospital can be found here. ■■ 14th (14e). Cimetière du Montparnasse, Gare Montparnasse, La Santé Prison, Denfert-Rochereau, Parc Montsouris, Stade Charléty, Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris, and Paris Catacombs can be found here. ■■ 15th (15e). Tour Montparnasse, Porte de Versailles, Front de Seine, La Ruche and quartiers Saint-Lambert, Necker, Grenelle and Javel can be found here. ■■ 16th (16e). Palais de Chaillot, Musée de l’Homme, the Bois de Boulogne, Cimetière de Passy, Parc des Princes, Musée Marmottan-Monet, Trocadéro, and Avenue Foch can be found here. ■■ 17th (17e). Palais des Congrès, Place de Clichy, Parc Monceau, Marché Poncelet, and Square des Batignolles can be found here. ■■ 18th (18e). Montmartre, Pigalle, Barbès, Basilica of the Sacré Cœur, Église Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre, and Goutte d’Or can be found here. ■■ 19th (19e). Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, Parc de la Villette, Bassin de la Villette, Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Cité de la Musique, Canal de l’Ourcq, and Canal Saint-Denis can be found here. ■■ 20th (20e). Cimetière de Père Lachaise, Parc de Belleville, and quartiers Belleville and Ménilmontant can be found here. ■■ La Défense. Although it is not officially part of the city, this skyscraper district on the western edge of town is on many Created for michael arrington Paris, France 19 visitors must-see lists for its modern architecture and public art. Beyond central Paris, the outlying suburbs are called Les Banlieues. Schematically, those on the west of Paris (Neuilly, Boulogne, Saint Cloud, Levallois) are wealthy residential communities. Those to the northeast are lower-class immigrant communities with high delinquency; keep in mind, though, that this is a very general classification. history Paris started life as the Celto-Roman settlement of Lutetia on the Île de la Cité, the island in the Seine currently occupied by the Cathédral de Nôtre Dame. It takes its present name from what the Romans named the dominant Gallo-Celtic tribe in the region, the Parisii. When they showed up in 52 BCE, they established their city Lutetia on the left bank of the Seine, in what is now called the “Latin Quarter” in the 5th arrondissement. The Romans held out here for as long as anywhere else in the Western Empire, but by 508 CE they were gone, replaced by Clovis of the Franks, who is considered by the French as their first king. Clovis’ descendants, aka the Carolingians, held onto the expanded Lutetian state for nearly 500 years through Viking raids and other calamities, which finally resulted in a forced move by most of the population back to the islands which had been the center of the original Celtic village. The Capetian Duke of Paris was voted to succeed the last of the Carolingians as King of France, insuring the city a premier position in the medieval world. Over the next several centuries Paris expanded onto the right bank into what was and is still called le Marais (The Marsh). Quite a few buildings from this time can be seen in the 4th arrondissement. The medieval period also witnessed the founding of the Sorbonne. As the “University of Paris”, it became one of the most important centers for education in Europe, if not the whole world, for several hundred years. Most of the institutions that still constitute the University are found in the 5th, and 13th arrondissements. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 20 In the late 18th century there was a period of political and social upheaval in the political history of France and Europe as a whole, during which the French governmental structure, previously a monarchy with feudal privileges for the aristocracy and Catholic clergy, underwent radical change to forms based on Enlightenment principles of nationalism, citizenship, and inalienable rights. Notable events during and following the revolution were the storming of the Bastille 4th arrondissements, and the rise and fall of Napoleonic France. Out of the violent turmoil that was the French Revolution, sparked by the still known Passion des Francais, emerged the enlightened modern day France. The Paris which most visitors know and love was built long after the Capetian and later the Bourbon Kings of France made their mark on Paris with such buildings as the Louvre and the Palais Royal, both in the 1st. They were gone in the 19th century when Baron von Hausmann reconstructed adding the long straight avenues, and replacing many of the then existing medieval houses, with grander and more uniform buildings. New wonders arrived during la Belle Époque, as the Parisian golden age of the late 19th century is known. Gustave Eiffel’s famous tower, the first metro lines, most of the parks, and the streetlights (which are partly believed to have given the city its epithet “the city of light”) all come from this period. Another source of the epithet comes from Ville Lumière, a reference not only to the then revolutionary electrical lighting system implemented in the streets of Paris, but also to the prominence and aura of Enlightenment the city gained in that era. The twentieth century was hard on Paris, but thankfully not as hard as it could have been. Hitler’s order to burn the city was thankfully ignored by the German General von Choltitz who was quite possibly convinced by a Swedish diplomat that it would be better to surrender and be remembered as the savior of Paris, than to be remembered as its destroyer. Following the war, the city recovered at first, but slowed in the 1970s and 1980s when Paris began to experience some of the problems faced by big cities everywhere: pollution, housing shortages, and occasionally failed experiments in urban renewal. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 21 During this time, however, Paris enjoyed considerable growth as a multi-cultural city, with new immigrants from all corners of the world, especially La Francophonie, including most of northern and western Africa as well as Vietnam and Laos. These immigrants brought their foods and music, both of which are of prime interest for many travelers. Today there are more nationalities represented in Paris than even in New York (over 100). Immigration and multi-culturalism continues in 21st century with a marked increase in the arrival of people from Latin America, especially Mexico, Colombia, and Brazil. In the late 1990s it was hard to find good Mexican food in Paris, however, today there are dozens of possibilities from lowly taquerias in the outer arrondissements to nice sit-down restaurants on the boulevards. Meanwhile Latin music from Salsa to Samba is all the rage (well, alongside Paris discotheque electronica). The 21st century has also seen vast improvements in the general livability of Paris, with the Mayor’s office concentrating on reducing pollution and improving facilities for soft forms of transportation including a huge network of cycle paths, larger pedestrian districts and newer faster metro lines. Visitors who normally arrive car-less are the beneficiaries of these policies as much as the Parisians themselves are. As on February 2008, smoking was banned in restaurants and bars to promote healthier and more accepting environments for patrons. by PlanE Paris is served by three international airports - for more information, including arrival/departure times, check the official sites. Charles de Gaulle International Airport (Roissy , ) to the northeast of the city is one of the major hub airports of Europe. It’s notoriously confusing, so allow plenty of time for transfers. There are three terminals: Terminal 1, Terminal 2 (which is huge and subdivided into 2A through 2F), and Terminal 3 (formerly T9). Terminal 1 and 3 are next to each other, whereas mass Terminal 2 is in another building. The free CDGVAL shuttle train Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 22 connects the terminals together. Everything at this airport is very expensive so be aware. There are also hardly any benches around, and don’t even consider looking for an outlet to charge your cell phone or laptop. For getting to or from Paris, RER-B has stations in T3 (from where you can take the free CDGVAL shuttle train to T1) and T2; trains to Paris (Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les Halles, Saint-Michel Notre-Dame, Luxembourg, Porte Royale, Denfert Rochereau) leave every 15 minutes, and have express trains running at every hour. Tickets cost €8,50 (or €5,50 for a child’s fare) each and take around 40 minutes (or less if on express), making this the fastest and cheapest way to connect. Alternatively, the Roissybus service connects all terminals directly to Opéra Garnier in central Paris, but its subject to traffic jams and rush hour, so it averages 60-90 minutes even on a good day. There is also a TGV station in T2 for high-speed connections, mostly towards Lille and Brussels, but there are also some trains that head south to eg. Rennes and Nantes, bypassing Paris. When using the ticket to the airport (and with tickets to zones outside of Paris) use it to enter and exit the train. Always keep the ticket handy as the SNCF officials sometimes check for tickets, and if you are without one you will be fined a hefty fare of €40. Orly International Airport to the south-west of the city, and served by a southern branch of the RER-B line that heads in the direction of Saint-Rémy-les-Chevreuse (not Robinson). This older international airport is used mainly by Air France for national lines, and other international carriers in Europe. Orly is roughly forty minutes from Paris via the OrlyBus, which departs from Métro Denfert-Rochereau (ligne 6); the price is €6. Another option is bus 285 that takes you to the Métro Villejuif Louis Aragon(ligne 7) in 15 minutes. Bus 285 costs €1,5 and runs every 10 minutes, stopping at airport level -1. The Orlyval light rail connects both terminals to the RER B line at Antony. It runs every 4-7 minutes and cost €9.30 for transfer to Paris. The RER B from Antony runs through Paris to Aéroport Charles de Gaulle. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 23 Beauvais (Aéroport de Paris Beauvais Tillé , ) to way north of the city, is a smaller regional airport that is used by some low-cost carriers such as Ryanair (). The airport operates a shuttle service connecting with the Métro at Porte Maillot station. Buses run even during the wee hours of the morning (~ 6 am). Buses leave 20 minutes after each flight arrives, and a few hours before each flight departs. Exact times can be found on the Beauvais Airport website. The journey will take about an hour in good traffic conditions, and costs €13 each way (as of April 2008). In addition to public transport, Air France operates shuttles between Charles de Gaulle and Paris (€10 - €12), Orly and Paris (€7.5) and between the two airports (€15). Note that if you have connecting Air France flights that land and depart from different airports, you would still generally need to fetch your luggage after landing, catch either the Air France shuttle or a taxi (readily available at all airports) to the other airport and check-in again. This altogether could take up to 2 hours particularly if traffic is at its worse. It is also common to lose time during disembarking, as passengers often need to get off at the tarmac and get on buses which will bring them to the terminal building. Be sure to have sufficient time between flights to catch your connection. Note that check-in counters usually close 30 minutes before the flight departs, longer if flights are international carriers. If you arrive to CDG Airport at night you’ll need a Noctilien bus to get to the city center. The bus stops in all three terminals (in terminal 2 it will be the second level in departure section - it is very difficult to find, but it really exists). The bus leaves every 30 minutes after 00:30 (see ). The buses you’ll need are N121 and N120; the price is 7 Euro. by train Paris is well connected to the rest of Europe by train. There are several stations serving Paris. You will probably want to know in advance at which station your train is arriving, so as to better choose a hotel and plan for transport within the city. ■■ Gare du Nord, (10th), Métro: Gare du Nord - TGV trains to and from Belgium, the Netherlands, and Cologne, Germany Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 24 (Thalys), and the United Kingdom (Eurostar) and regular trains from Northern Europe. ■■ Gare d’Austerlitz, (13th), Métro: Gare d’Austerlitz - regular trains to and from the center and southwest of France (Orléans, Limoges, Toulouse the long way), Spain and Portugal and arrival of majority of the night trains. ■■ Gare de l’Est, (10th), Métro: Gare de l’Est - ICE/TGV to and from Saarbrücken, Frankfurt, and Stuttgart, Germany. ■■ Gare de Lyon, (12th), Métro: Gare de Lyon - regular and TGV trains to and from Southern and eastern France: French Alps, Marseille, Lyon, Dijon, Switzerland: Geneva, Lausanne and Italy. ■■ Gare St Lazare, (8th) Métro: St-Lazare - trains to and from Basse-Normandie, Haute-Normandie. ■■ Gare Montparnasse, (15th), Métro: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe - TGV and regular trains to and from the west and south-west of France (Brest, Rennes, Nantes, Bordeaux, Toulouse the fastest way and Spain). The French national railway authority operates practically all trains within France excluding the Eurostar to London and the Thalys to Brussels and onward to the Netherlands and Germany. There are also a few local lines of high touristic interest which are privately owned. All SNCF, Eurostar and Thalys tickets can be bought in railway stations, city offices and travel agencies (no surcharge). The SNCF website is very convenient to book and buy tickets up to two months in advance. There are significant discounts if you book early. To get the best rates you should book at least four weeks ahead. Surprisingly, round trip tickets (aller-retour) with a stay over Saturday night can be cheaper than a single one-way ticket (aller simple). A very limited selection of last minute trips are published on the SNCF website every Tuesday, with discounts of more than 50%. There a a number of different kinds of high speed and normal trains: ■■ TER. Regional trains and normal day or night trains (no special name) operate to and from most cities in France and are usually your best bet for destinations all over France. These Created for michael arrington Paris, France 25 are the trains you’ll find yourself on if you have a Eurail pass, and don’t want to pay extra for reservations. ■■ TGV. The world-famous French high-speed trains (Trains à Grande Vitesse) run several times a day to the Southeast Nice(5-6h), Marseille (3h) and Avignon (2.5 h), the East Geneva (3h) or Lausanne, Switzerland and Dijon (1h15) , the Southwest Bordeaux (3h), the West Rennes (3h) and the North Lille (less than 1h). Eurostar to London (2h15) and Thalys to Brussels (1h20) use almost identical trains. ■■ Thalys. A high-speed train service running daily to/from the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany - it can be a bit expensive compared to normal trains. ■■ Intercity. Intercity trains leave for all parts of Europe, including overnight trains to San Sebastian in Spain, Porto and Lisbon in Portugal. ■■ Eurostar. The Eurostar service connects Paris with London directly and Brussels indirectly, as well many other destinations indirectly through the various west European rail services. Travel time between Paris and London St Pancras International currently averages at 2 hours 15 minutes, following the opening of a new rail link in late 2007. by bus ■■ Eurolines is a transeuropean bus company that offers trips to Paris. by car Several autoroutes (expressway, motorway) link Paris with the rest of France: A1 and A3 to the north, A5 and A6 to the south, A4 to the east and A13 and A10 to the west. Not surprisingly traffic jams are significantly worse during French school holidays. The multi-lane highway around Paris, called the Périphérique, is probably preferable to driving through the center. Another beltway nearing completion La Francilienne loops around Paris about 10 km further out from the Périphérique. It is advised not to drive in the Paris Metro Area. It is better to drive to a metro station with a parking lot and then use the metro to continue your trip throughout Paris. Most of Paris’ Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 26 roads were created long before the invention of automobiles. Traffic inside the city tends to be heavy, especially at rush hour, driving however may be rather easy and efficient in the evening; parking also is difficult. Also, the medieval nature of parts of the city’s street system makes it very confusing, and traffic will almost never allow one to stop or slow down to get one’s bearings. If you are unfamiliar with the streets and still insist on driving in the city, make sure you have a navigator in the passenger seat with you. on Foot Walking in Paris is one of the great pleasures of visiting the City of Light. It is possible to cross the entire city in only a few hours, but only if you can somehow keep yourself from stopping at numerous cafés and shops. In fact within a few years walking combined with biking and the Metro will be the only way to get around the very center of Paris: The Mayor’s office has announced plans to declare the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th arrondissements almost totally car-free by 2012. The smartest travelers take advantage of the walk-ability of this city, and stay above ground as much as possible. A metro ride of less than 2 stops is probably best avoided since walking will take about the same amount of time and you’ll be able to see more of the city. You may have heard of the hazard of walking into dog droppings in Paris. Unfortunately, despite many campaigns to get Parisians to clean up after their dogs, it’s still quite true that you have to keep an eye on the sidewalk in front of you. You will also notice that most of the older Parisian streets (especially the ones in the Quartier Latin) are particularly narrow with little or no room to even fit a car, so the sidewalks on these roads are extremely tiny. Although this means you would opt to walk on the road, be wary as Parisian drivers, taxi drivers in particular, take no heed in the narrowness of the road, and will drive down it as fast as if they were driving along a major road. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 27 It’s always fun to experience the city by foot, and there are numerous walking tours around Paris, whether self guided (with the help of a guidebook) or with a touring guide (booked through your travel agency or hotel). The city historically is one that is best explored by foot, and some of the most marvelous memories you will have of Paris is walking through secret found places. by métro Paris has an excellent underground train system, known as the Métro (short for Chemin de Fer Métropolitain i.e. Metropolitan Railways). There are 16 lines (lignes) (1-14, 3bis and 7bis) on which trains travel all day at intervals of a few minutes between 5 AM and 1230), stopping at all stations on the line. Times for trains can be seen on a prompt on the platform. Line 14, which is fully automated, is called the Méteor. Scheduled times for first and last trains are posted in each station on the center sign. The lines are named according to the names of their terminal stations (those at the end of the line). If you ask the locals about directions they will answer something like : take line number n toward “end station 1”, change at “station”, take the line nn toward “end station 2” etc. The lines are also color-coded. In addition there are 5 train lines called RER A, B, C, D, E. RER trains run at intervals of about 6 - 7 minutes, and stop at every station within Paris. Although a regular subway ticket can be used within Paris (Zone 1), it is necessary to pass the ticket through the turnstile when passing between the subway and the RER lines, as the two systems are separate networks. This ticket is necessary to both enter and exit the RER networks, as the RER trains travel on to the Parisian suburbs, outside the zone where a regular subway ticket can’t be used. Beware that traveling outside the city center without a valid RER ticket will get you fined, and the packs of inspectors who roam the system show no mercy to tourists pleading ignorance. In particular, CDG airport is not within the city, and you’ll need to purchase a more expensive RER ticket to get there (see Get in). For travel outside of the Paris zone, the train arrival times are shown on a monitor hanging from the ceiling inside the RER Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 28 station above the platform. Information about the stops to be made by the next train is presented on a separate board also hanging from the ceiling. It is important to check this board before boarding the train, as not all trains make stops at all stations on a given line. RATP is responsible for public transport including metro, buses, and some of the high speed inter-urban trains (RER). The rest of the RER is operated by SNCF. However, both companies take the same tickets, so the difference is of little interest for most people except in case of strikes (because RATP may strike while SNCF does not, or the other way round). Current fares can be found at their website. Basically, as you move further from Paris (ie into higher zones), tickets get more expensive. For the subway, a single ticket (ticket t+) costs €1.50; however, it is generally not advisable to buy tickets by the unit and to rather purchase a carnet of ten tickets, which can be bought for €11.10 at any station, that will bring the price per ticket down to €1.11. Tickets, named ‘Tarif Reduit’ may be purchased for children under the age of 10 for €0,55 each, or a carnet for €5,50. Both tickets are valid for unlimited metro, RER, bus and tram transfers during one hour. Tickets do not expire. A 1-day ticket, a weekly pass, and a monthly pass are also available. The price varies according to the zones for which the ticket can be used. The cheapest 1-day ticket called Mobilis, is valid for zones 1-2, with a price of 5.60 euros. Once bought, it is necessary to write in the spaces provided on the ticket: 1) the date the ticket is being used in European notation of day/ month/year (Valable le), 2) the last name (Nom), and 3) and the first name (Prénom). Unfortunately, this ticket is not valid for use for travel to/from Charles de Gaulle airport. If you’re staying a bit longer, the weekly and monthly passes are called Carte Orange (1 week pass, €16.30 for Paris and inner suburbs), and the monthly Carte Orange Mensuelle (1 month pass). Note that an Hebdomadaire (eb-DOH-ma-DAYR) starts on Mondays and a Mensuelle on the first of the month. The Carte Orange is non-transferrable, and therefore requires the user Created for michael arrington Paris, France 29 to provide information on the pass after the sale. Since 2008, the Carte Orange is sold as refill of a “Navigo Decouverte” no contact pass. This pass is sold 5€. You must write your last name (nom), your first name (prénom) and stick your photo on the nominative card. After, you have to refill your pass with a Carte Orange Hebdomadaire (1 week pass), or a Carte Orange Mensuelle (1 month pass). You have to choose at least 2 the contiguous “zones” : Paris is first the zone 1, La Défense is in the third zone, Versailles in the fourth,... Everything related to a “Navigo” pass is in purple (eg. the target for the pass in the turnstiles). Although not as good a deal for adults in most cases as the Mobilis or Carte Orange, there are also 1 to 5 day tourist passes, called Paris Visite available, which are a bargain for kids of ages 4 to 11, starting at €4.25 per day for travel within zones 1-3. Keep your métro ticket or pass with you at all times, you may be checked or “controlled”. You will be cited and forced to pay on the spot. Although the most likely spots for controls are at big métro stations or during métro line change “correspondences”, it is not uncommon for “controleurs” to check tickets on trains. RATP agents may be present in the metro stations even on Sunday night. Métro stations have both ticket windows and automatic vending machines. The majority of automatic vending machines take only coins or European credit cards with a pin-encoded chip on the front. Therefore, to use either Euro bills or a non-European credit card with a magnetic stripe, it is necessary to make the purchase from the ticket window. Each station displays a detailed map of the surrounding area with a street list and the location of buildings (monuments, schools, places of worship etc) as well as exits for that particular metro. Maps are located on the platform if the station has several exits or near the exit if there is only one. When the train arrives, the doors may not open automatically. In such a case, there are handles located both inside and outside Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 30 the train which you have to push, or unlatch in order to open the door. by boat There are several excellent boat services which makes use of the Seine. As well as providing easy, cheap transport to much of central Paris, excellent photo opportunities abound. You can buy a day or 3 day ticket and hop on and off the boat as needed. The boats take a circular route from the Eiffel Tower, down past the Louvre, Notre Dame, botanical gardens then back up the other bank past Musee D’orsay. offer sightseeing cruises. on skatEs Paris is the mecca of city skating. This is due to the large, smooth surfaces offered by both the pavements and the roads. Skating on the pavement is legal all around Central Paris (zone 1) and its suburbs (zone 2+). See our Do section below for more information. by bicyclE Renting a bike is a very good alternative over driving or using public transport. Riding a bike anywhere in the city is far safer for the moderately experienced cyclists than almost any town or city in the United States. The French are very cognizant of cyclists, almost to a point of reverence. A few years ago Paris wasn’t the easiest place to get around by bike. That however has changed dramatically in recent years, starting perhaps with a lengthy bus and traffic jam. The city government has taken a number of steps in strong support of improving the safety and efficiency of the urban cyclist as well, in establishing some separated bike lanes, but even more important a policy of allowing cyclists to share the ample bus lanes on most major boulevards. Paris also has many riversides which are perfect for cycling. The Paris bike network now counts over 150 km of either unique or shared lanes for the cyclist. In addition, the narrower, medieval side streets of the central arrondissements make for rather scenic and leisurely cycling, especially during off-hours of the day when traffic is lighter. Do remember to bring a good map, since there is no grid plan to speak of and almost all of the smaller streets are one-way. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 31 Note that, while the streets of Paris are generally fairly easy on novice cyclists, there are some streets in the city that should be avoided by those who do not have sufficient urban cycling experience. ‘Rue de Rivoli’, ‘Place de la Bastille’, and ‘Place de la Nation’ are particularly hairy, especially during weekdays and the Saturday evening rush, and should not be navigated by anyone not confident in their ability to cycle in heavy traffic. ‘Avenue des Champs-Elysées’, ‘Place de l’Étoile’, and ‘Voie Georges Pompidou’ (the lower-level express lanes along the banks of the Seine) should be avoided at all times. You can find an excellent map of the bike network called Plan des Itinéraires cyclables () at the information center in the Hôtel de Ville. although its not soo much fun with skates There are two different bike rental programs in Paris: ■■ Vélib. In July 2007 the municipality of Paris introduced the Vélib program (“vélo Liberté” or Bicycle Freedom) by which it is possible to rent a bike for a very modest price. Numerous stations are to be found around the city (at major landmarks and metro stations) with your credit card (although sadly at this writing many American cards do not work at the machines), you can subscribe for 1 day (1€) or 7 days (5€) after paying a security on the bicycle (to pay for it if it isn’t returned) & then get a bike the first 30 mn are free... so the game is to get to another station in 25 mn & get another bicycle (you will have to wait for 5 mn before you get another one, though). Try it if your card works in the machines it’s a great way to get around! The bicycles are wonderful cruiser bikes, with a front basket to put a purse or bag. In addition to operating a number of bike rental buses, the RATP has some permanent locations, including: ■■ Roue Libre, Les Halles, 1 passage Mondétour (facing 120 rue Rambuteau, Métro: Les Halles). Opening hours from 9 a.m. until 7 p.m. Bikes can be rented for one weekend (€25), Mon- Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 32 day to Friday (€20), a working day (€9), or one day in the weekend (€14). ■■ Roue Libre, Bastille, 37, boulevard Bourdon, Métro: Bastille. Opening hours from 9 a.m. until 7 p.m. Bikes can be rented for one weekend (€25), Monday to Friday (€20), a working day (€9), or one day in the weekend (€14). Another possibility for renting a bicycle is Fat Tire bike tours. See the listing under Do below. by taxi Taxis are comparatively cheap especially at night when there are no traffic jams to be expected. They are however but not nearly plentiful enough. In the daytime, it is not always a good idea to take a taxi, as walking or taking the metro (See: Métro) will often be faster. If you know you will need one to get to the airport, or to a meeting, it is wise to book ahead by phone (Taxis Bleus and Taxis G7). Remember if a taxi is near a ‘taxi station’, they’re not supposed to pick you up except at the station where there may be people waiting for a taxi. Taxi stations are usually near train stations, big hotels, hospitals, large crossings. There are a number of services by which you can call for taxis or make a reservation in advance: ■■ Taxis de France Taxi Bleus ■■ Taxi-Paris ■■ Shuttle ■■ Taxis As in many other cities a taxi can be difficult to stop; you may have to try several times. When you do get a taxi to stop, the driver will usually roll down his window to ask you where you want to go. If the driver can’t (or doesn’t want to) go where you want, he might tell you that he’s near the end of his work day & can’t possibly get you where you want before he has to go off-duty. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 33 There is a €5.50 minimum on all taxi rides, mandated by city law, but the meter does not show this amount, which can result in being asked to pay more than the metered amount on short rides. Frequently the taxi driver will not want to drive you all the way to the doorstep, but will prefer to let you out a block or so away if there are one or more one-way streets to contend with. Try to look at this as a cost-savings rather than an inconvenience. You should pay while still seated in the cab as in London and not through the front window New York style. The driver will not let you sit in the front seat (unless there are 3 or 4 of you, which is a rare case usually expedited by more money). Taxi-drivers come in all types, some nice, some rude, some wanting to chat, some not. Smoking in taxis is generally not allowed, however it might be that the taxi driver himself wants a cigarette in which case the rule might become flexible. Many drivers prefer that you avoid using your cellphone during the ride; if you do have to, make an apologizing gesture & sound, and do make a short call. tip is included in the fare price If you’re especially satisfied with the service, you can give something (basically 10%), but you don’t have to. ■■ There is an extra charge for baggage handling. If for any reason you wish to file a complaint about a Paris taxi, take note of the taxi’s number on the sticker on the left hand backseat window. Beware of illegal taxis (see the ‘Stay Safe’ section). ■■ A talk In the parts of the city that tourists frequent the most (Tour Eiffel, Le Louvre, Champs-Elysées), the shopkeepers, information booth attendants, and other workers are likely to answer you in English, even if your French is advanced. These workers tend to deal with thousands of foreign-speaking tourists, and responding in English is often faster than repeating themselves in French. This is not the case for the rest of the city. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 34 For most people English is something the Parisians had to study in school, and thus seems a bit of a chore. People helping you out in English are making an extra effort, sometimes a considerable one. Younger people are much more likely to be fluent in English than older people. If it’s your first time in France you will have some problems understanding what people are saying (even with prior education in French). They talk fast, swallow some letters, and generally concentrate on the tone and melody of their speech in an effort to make it all sound like beautiful music. Likewise, the French taught in schools in English-speaking countries tends to be written French which is quite different from spoken French. Indeed, French spoken by native English speakers tends to be really hardly understandable by the French - do not be offended if people ask you to repeat, or seem not to understand you, they do not act out of snobbery. Keep your sense of humour, and if necessary, write down phrases or place names. And remember to speak slowly and clearly. Unless you have an advanced level and can at least sort of understand French Movies you should also assume that it will be difficult for people to understand what you are saying (Imagine someone speaking English to you in an indiscernible accent, it’s all the same). When in need of directions what you should do is this: find a younger person, or a person reading some book or magazine in English, who is obviously not in a hurry; say “hello” or “bonjour”; start by asking if the person speaks English, “Parlez-vous anglais?” (Par-LAY voo An-Glay?) even if he/she’s reading something in English, speak slowly and clearly; write down place names if necessary. Smile a lot. Also, carry a map (preferably Paris par Arrondissement); given the complexity of Paris streets it is difficult to explain how to find any particular address in any language, no matter how well you speak it. If anything, the person may have an idea as to the place you are looking for, but may not know exactly where it may be, so the map always helps. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 35 On the other hand you will probably get the cold shoulder if you stop a random person in the métro (like, say, some middle-aged hurried person who has a train to take), fail to greet them and say “where is place X or street Y”. Now if you do speak French, remember two magic phrases : “Excusez-moi de vous déranger” (“Sorry to bother you”) and “Pourriez-vous m’aider?” (“Could you help me?”) — use them liberally - especially in shops; they will work wonders. sEE One of the best value and most convenient ways to see the sights of Paris is with the (previously known as Carte Musées et Monuments), a pre-paid entry card that allows entry into over 70 museums and monuments around Paris and comes in 2-day (€30), 4-day (€45) and 6-day (€60) denominations (prices as of March 2007). The card allows you to jump otherwise sometimes lengthy queues and is available from participating museums, tourist offices, Fnac branches and all the main Métro and RER train stations. You will still need to pay to enter most special exhibitions. Note that most museums and galleries are closed on either Monday or Tuesday - check ahead to avoid disappointment! - and most ticket counters close 30 - 45 minutes before final closing. Also consider the also a pre paid entry card + queue jumping to 60 attractions including The Louvre, The Arc de Triomphe, as well as a river cruise, open top bus tour, cycle hire and allows free metro & public transport travel. All national museums are open free of charge on the first Sunday of the month; note, however, that this may mean long lines and crowded exhibits. Keep away from Paris during Easter week. It’s really crowded. People have to queue up at the Eiffel tower for several hours. These listings are just some highlights of things that you really should see if you can during your visit to Paris. The complete Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 36 listings are found on each individual district page (follow the link in parenthesis). A good listing of almost everything to do in Paris are the ‘Pariscope’, the ‘Officiel des spectacles’, and the much hipper ‘Zurban’, weekly magazines listing all concerts, stage plays and museums. Available from many kiosks. Unfortunately, their Pariscope website is of no use at all. If you prefer a web version, you can visit Cityzeum, with maps of Paris, audio tours to download freely and more than 2000 visit and entertainment points. landmarks ■■ Arc de Triomphe (8th). The grave of the unknown soldier is under the arch. ■■ Arènes de Lutece (5th). Built during the 1st and 2nd centuries, this amphitheater could seat up to 17,000 people, hosting gladiator fights as well as less bloody entertainment. Now a popular spot for playing boules, it is one of the only remaining ruins from the Gallo-Roman era in Paris, along with the Thermes (public baths) at Cluny. ■■ Assemblée Nationale (7th). Seats the French Parliament, and was designed by Giardini and Gabriel in 1728. ■■ Catacombs (14th). Used to store the exhumed bones from the overflowing Paris cemetery. ■■ Chateau de Versailles (Versailles). On the outskirts of the city, the “must see” home of the Sun King Louis XIV. ■■ the Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) (7th). One of the most famous landmarks in the world. ■■ Grand Arche de la Defense (La Defense). A modern officebuilding variant of the Arc de Triomphe. Has a viewing platform. ■■ Notre Dame Cathedral (4th). Impressive Gothic cathedral that was the inspiration for Victor Hugo’s novel The Hunchback Created for michael arrington Paris, France 37 of Notre Dame. Saved in the 19th century by the best-known French architect Viollet-le-Duc. ■■ Pantheon (5th). Underneath, the final resting place for the great heroes of the French Republic above, a marvellous view of the city. ■■ Père-Lachaise Cemetery (20th). See the grave of Jim Morrison amongst many others. ■■ Sacré Coeur (18th). A church perched on top of the highest point in Paris. Behind the church is the artists’ area, in front are spectacular views of the whole city. ■■ Sainte Chapelle (1st). Far more beautiful than the famous, but gloomy, Notre Dame. Make sure you go on a sunny day, as the highlight of this small chapel in Rayonnante Gothic style are the large stained-glass windows which soar up to near the vaulted ceiling. Also of interest is the extremely ornate lower level. If it happens to be rainy or cloudy, give Sainte Chappelle a miss, as the play of colored lights on the floor are well worth the wait for a sunnier day. musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Le Musée de l’AP-HP (5th). Paris’s medical history. ■■ Le Musee des Arts Decoratifs (1st). Showcasing eight centuries of French savoir faire. ■■ Carnavalet (3rd). //www.carnavalet.paris.fr Museum of Paris history exhibitions are permanent and free. Noted for its collection of French Revolution artifacts, such as David’s famous painting Serment du Jeu de Paume. Has Proust’s bed and the Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 38 Dauphin’s room in the prison tower diarama. Located in the Marais. ■■ Centre Georges Pompidou (4th). The great museum of modern art, the building an attraction in itself. ■■ Cluny (5th). Paris’s medieval museum, housed in a part Roman, part medieval building. Entry is now free of charge. ■■ Delacroix. National museum housed in the home of painter Eugene Delacroix. (8th). Private collection of ■■ Jacquemart-Andre Museum French, Italian, Dutch masterpieces in a typical XIXth century mansion. ■■ Picasso Museum (3rd). Contains the master’s own collections. ■■ Les Invalides (7th). Museum of arms and armor from the Middle Ages to today. Also contains the tombs of Napoleon Bonaparte and other French military figures. ■■ The Louvre (1st). One of the finest museums in the world of art, art-history, and culture. Be prepared to walk as this is a fairly large facility and has many rooms to view. ■■ Musée de l’Orangerie (1st). Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings by Paul Cézanne, Henri Matisse, Amedeo Modigliani, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Henri Rousseau, Chaim Soutine, Alfred Sisley. ■■ Musée d’Orsay (7th). Home to the great artists of the 19th century (1848-1914). ■■ Musée Marmottan-Monet(16th). ■■ Musée National de la Marine (16th). From times of exploration to modern day vessels. Interesting but primarily in French. ■■ Rodin Museum (7th). His personal collection and archives, in a charming hotel and sprawling garden. do ■■ cooking class, 21 rue custine. Cooking Class. Hands on French Cooking Classes in a relaxed atmosphere with an experienced French chef. 4 hours of fun, including Market visit, cheese and wine tasting, 5 minutes from the sacre-coeur in the heart of Montmartre. www.cooknwithclass.com ■■ Fat Tire Bike Tours. Offers guided English-speaking bicycle tours of Paris (by day and night), Versailles and Monet’s Gardens in Normandy. Tours operate year-round at a variety Created for michael arrington Paris, France 39 of times each day. Tours offer a great orientation, detailed city information and fantastic photo opportunities. They use California beach cruiser bikes with large comfortable seats. Tours are not the least bit strenuous and all ages are welcome. Their office has an internet cafe, free bathrooms, loads of information about Paris and free daily luggage storage for their customers. Has been featured in the New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Time, Newsweek and on CNN, the BBC and the Travel Channel. ■■ City Segway Tours. Provides guided English-speaking Segway tours of Paris by day and night. They share an office with Fat Tire Bike Tours and Classic Walks of Paris. ■■ Classic Walks of Paris. Offers guided English-speaking walking tours of Paris. Themed walks include the Classic Walk, Da Vinci Code, Montmartre, Latin Quarter, World War II and French Revolution. They share an office with Fat Tire Bike Tours and City Segway Tours. ■■ Bike About Tours. Shows an insiders look at the ‘city of light’ with local, English-speaking guides who have lived in Paris for years. This small bike tour company gives 3 tours everyday at 10am, 3pm, & 7pm from the Chalemagne statue in front of Notre Dame Cathedral. They stay away from the touristy Paris and show you the ‘real’ Paris. ■■ Context Paris. A network of scholars and specialists (architects, writers, historians, etc.) who lead small-group walking tours of Paris and excursions to other parts of France. A leader in sustainable travel, Context invests heavily in preservation initiatives in Paris and the six other cities where it operates. ■■ New Paris Free Walking Tour. Run by Sandemans New Europe group. Offers free walking tours (tip only basis) of both Paris - the major sights - and Montmarte. Conducted by English speaking guides - mostly Americans - who live, work, or study in Paris. ■■ In-line Skating. Every Friday night and Sunday afternoon (except when raining) hordes of in-line skaters take to the streets of Paris on a preplanned route, for about 3.5 hours. The trip is speedy you will have to negotiate some real slopes. You must be good at skating if you want to join. Even if you Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 40 don’t participate, find a cafe near the route and watch them fly by. EvEnts It seems like there’s almost always something happening in Paris, with the possible exceptions of the school holidays in August and February, when about half of Parisians are to be found not in Paris, but in the Alps or the South of France respectively. The busiest season is probably the fall, from a week or so after la rentrée scholaire or “back to school” to around Noël (Christmas) theatres, cinemas and concert halls book their fullest schedule of the year. Even so, there are a couple of annual events in the winter, starting with a furniture and interior decorating trade fair called Maison & Object in January. In February le Nouvel An Chinois (Chinese New Year) is celebrated in Paris as it is in every city with a significant Chinese population. There are parades in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements, and especially in Chinatown in the 13th south of Place d’Italie. Also in February is the Six Nations Rugby Tournament which brings together France, England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales and Italy. The first of two Fashion weeks occurs in March Spring Fashion Week giving designers a platform to present women’s Prêt-àPorter (ready to wear) collections for the following winter. The French Tennis Open parade, featuring probably the most sincere participation by the mayor’s office of any such parade on the globe. The French national holiday Bastille Day on the 14th of July celebrates the storming of the infamous Bastille during the July Revolution. Paris hosts several spectacular events that day of which the best known is the Bastille Parade which is held on the Champs-Élysées at 10am and broadcast to pretty much the rest of Europe by television. The entire street will be crowded with spectators so arrive early. The Bastille Day Fireworks is an exceptional treat for travelers lucky enough to be in town on Created for michael arrington Paris, France 41 Bastille Day. The Office du Tourisme et des Congress de Paris recommends gathering in or around the champs du Mars, the gardens of the Eiffel Tower. Also in July, Cinema en Plein Air . Also in July the cycling race le Tour de France both starts and ends in Paris. Its route varies annually, however it always finishes on the last Sunday of July under the Arc de Triomphe. On the last full weekend in August, a world-class music festival Rock en Seine draws international rock and pop stars to barges on the Seine near moored off of the 8th. During mid-September DJs and (usually young) fans from across Europe converge on Paris for five or six days of dancing etc. culminating in the Techno parade a parade whose route traces roughly from Pl. de Bastille to the Sorbonne, and around the same time the festival Jazz à la Villette brings some of the biggest names in contemporary jazz from around the world. The Nuit Blanche returns shortly thereafter showing off Women’s Prêt-à-Porter collections for the following summer; as we’ve noted winter collections are presented in March. moviEs The Cinémas of Paris are (or at least should be) the envy of the movie-going world. Of course, like anywhere else you can see big budget first-run films from France and elsewhere. That though, is just the start. During any given week there are at least half-a-dozen film festivals going on, at which you can see the entire works of a given actor or director. Meanwhile there are some older cult films like say, What’s new Pussycat or Casino Royal which you can enjoy pretty much any day you wish. Many non-French movies are subtitled (called “version originale” or “v/o”). Still it’s probably a good idea to be sure of a movie having subtitles if your French is not adequate to follow fast conversations. There are any number of ways to find out what’s playing, but the most commonly used guide is Pariscope, which you can find at Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 42 newstands for 0.40€. Meanwhile there are innumerable online guides which have information on “every” cinema in Paris. Be aware that most of the movies shown in France are dubbed to French. Some shows may have French subtitles. lEarn It should go without saying that Paris is a good place to learn French. ■■ Alliance Francaise. One of the world’s largest schools of French language, the Paris Alliance Française has a wide variety of courses for a visitor to choose from. ■■ Université Paris IV. Offers ‘scholastic’ as well as ‘university’ courses for foreigners in French language and culture, which start at various times of year. Paris is the seat of a great variety of higher education establishments. ■■ The American Library in Paris (5 minutes walking distance from the Eiffel Tower). A great place to visit in Paris is the American Library, this is a non-profit institution entirely dependent on donations in order to keep its doors open. Visitors can purchase a day pass or other short term memberships. The Library has WiFi and if you have your laptop then you can access the internet for no charge other than the day pass to use the library. It has excellent books, recent American magazines and the occasional celebrity patron. Work Work in Paris, especially from non-EU citizens entails a very long and arduous process. If you opt for unreported work, such as babysitting, you need not fret about going through the Green Card process. However, if you do choose a change in location, it is advisable to obtain the Green Card prior to finding any job whatsoever, as the process can be longer than expected. Before entering the city, one must obtain a visa from their local French Consulate French Embassy . The guidelines for Created for michael arrington Paris, France 43 particular visas can be found on the their website, and each differ depending on length of stay in France, and what exactly you will be doing while there. When applying for the visa make sure you have ALL your documents prior to your appointment at the French Consulate, otherwise the process, and inevitably, obtaining your visa will be delayed. Always make 2 copies of all the forms, and to have plenty of passport photos ready as the copies will be utilized in each step of the process. If you are going to work in France and are bringing a child along, also bring your child’s information for obtaining a visa. After obtaining a visa (usually a single-entry), you must go to your Local Parisian Prefecture as your single-entry visa will expire within 3 months of arrival, and the process in the country is just as long and arduous as the one at the Consulate. Expect to go there multiple times, and always have copies and copies of those copies. The French governmental system is notorious for losing papers, so always have the copies handy when you go for your follow up. When you finally do receive your Carte de Séjour, or the equivalent of a French green card, you are free to scope out jobs. Job listings, as anywhere, can be found in local magazines and newspapers. Another great place to look for jobs is online, whether using a Job Search Engine such as Monster . Remember, the city of Paris has a huge network of immigrants coming and going, and it is always great to tap into that network. The city holds a great abundance of work ready to be found, even if it feels nerve wracking at first. buy Paris is one of the great fashion centers of the Western world, up there with New York, London, and Milan, making it a shopper’s delight. While the Paris fashion scene is constantly evolving, the major shopping centres tend to be the same. High end couture can be found in the 8th arrondisement. In summer, there is nothing better than browsing the boutiques along Canal StMartin, or strolling along the impressive arcades of the historic Palais-Royal, with beautifully wrapped purchases swinging on each arm. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 44 A good note about Le Marais is that as it is a mostly Jewish neighborhood, most of the shops in Le Marais are open on Sundays. The stores in this area are intimate and boutique, manifesting as particularly “Parisian” style clothing stores. You will no doubt find something along each street, and is always well worth the look. Other great areas to shop around in are around the area Sèvres Babylone (Métro ligne 10 and ligne 12). It is in this area you will find afore mentioned Le Bon Marchée 7th, particularly rue de Cherche Midi 6th. The area houses some of the major fashion houses (Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Versace, etc) and also has smaller private boutiques with handmade clothing. In the Quartier Saint-Germain-des-Prés, you can find a handful of vintage clothing shops, carrying anything from couture early 20th century dresses, to 70’s Chanel sunglasses. Walking along Boulevard Saint-Germain, you will find major brands. However, if in search of eclectic finds, opt to walk the northern side of the Boulevard, especially along rue Saint André des Arts, where you can always find a nice café to stop in. The area south of SaintGermain is just as nice, and comes with a price tag to match. FlEa markEts Paris has 3 main flea-markets, located on the outskirts of the central city. The most famous of these is the Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen (Porte de Clignancourt)(Clignancourt Flea Market) , Métro: Porte de Clignancourt, in the 18th, a haven for lovers of antiques, second-hand goods and retro fashion. The best days to go are Saturday and Sunday. Note that there are particular times of the week when only antique collectors are allowed into the stalls, and there are also times of the day when the stall owners take their Parisian Siesta, and enjoy a leisurely cappuccino for an hour or so. The best times to visit the Flea Markets are in the spring and summertime, when the area is more vibrant. musical instrumEnts Rue de Rome, situated near Gare St. Lazare, is crowded with luthiers, brass and woodwind makers, piano sellers, and sheet music stores. Subway station Europe. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 45 artWork For art lovers, be sure to check out Quartier Saint-Germain-desPrés, which is notorious for its galleries, and it is impossible to turn a street without finding a gallery to cast your glance in. On Fridays, most open until late. Most even have the benefit of bottles of wine so you can wander in with your glass of wine and feel very artistique. Great roads to walk along are rue de Seine, rue Jacob, rue des Beaux Arts, Rue Bonaparte, and Rue Mazarine. Eat Paris is one of Europe’s culinary centers. The restaurant trade began here just over 220 years ago and continues to thrive. It may however come as a surprise that Paris isn’t considered the culinary capitol of France, rather some people prefer the French cooking found in small rural restaurants, outside of the city, closer to the farms and with their focus on freshness and regional specialties. Even amongst French cities, Paris has long been considered by some people as second to Lyon for fine dining. There have been other challenges in the last 20 years or so as restaurateurs in places like San Francisco and Sydney briefly surpassed their Parisian fore bearers, again with an emphasis on freshness of ingredients but also borrowings from other cuisines. Parisian cooks didn’t just rest on their laurels during this time, rather they traveled, taught, and studied, and together with Paris’s own immigrant communities, have revitalized the restaurant trade. Today you can find hundreds of beautiful restaurants with thoughtful (or just trendy) interior design and well-planned and executed cartes and menus offering a creative mélange of French and exotic foreign cuisines. It’s safe to say that Paris is once again catching up with or edging ahead of its Anglophone rivals. Of course there are also some traditional offerings, and for the budget conscious there are hundreds of traditional bistros, with their sidewalk terraces offering a choice fairly simple (usually meat centered) meals for reasonable prices. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 46 For the uninitiated, it is unfortunately possible to have a uniformly poor dining experience during a stay in Paris, mainly because many attractions are situated in upscale areas of town, and that mass tourism attracts price gougers. It is frequent to hear of people complaining of very high Parisian prices for poor food and poor service, because they always tried to eat close to major tourist magnets. Try to go eat where the locals eat for good food and great service. Many restaurants are tiny and have tables close together - square meters are at a premium and understandably restaurateurs need to make the most of limited space. In some cases when the restaurant is crowded, you may have to sit besides strangers at the same table. If you disagree to it, go to a more upscale place where you will pay for increased room. Trendy restaurants often require reservations weeks, if not months in advance. If you haven’t planned far enough ahead, try to get a reservation for lunch which is generally easier and less expensive. For an easy-to-manage eating budget while in Paris, consider: breakfast or “petit dejeuner” at a restaurant, possibly in your hotel, consisting of some croissants, coffee, and maybe a piece of fruit (this typically costs around $5 to $10 depending on the area). Get a ‘walking lunch’ from one of Paris’ many food stands--a panino in the center of the city, a crepe from a crepe stand, a felafel pita or take-out Chinese in the Marais. Traiteurs serving Chinese food are ubiquitous in the city and good for a cheap lunch and many patisseries sell inexpensive coffee and sandwiches. All these are cheap (about the same as breakfast), easy, and allow you to maximize your sightseeing and walking time while enjoying delicious local or ethnic food. For dinner, stroll the streets at dusk and consider a 20-to-40-Euro prixfixe menu. This will get you 3 or 4 courses, possibly with wine, and an unhurried, candlelit, magical European evening. If you alternate days like this with low-budget, self-guided eating (picnicking, snacking, street food) you will be satisfied without breaking the bank. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 47 sElF catEring Budget travelers will be very pleased with the range and quality of products on offer at the open air markets (e.g. the biggest one on Boul Richard Lenoir (near the Bastille), Rue Mouffetard, Place Buci, Place de la Madeleine and over the Canal Saint-Martin in the 11th or in any other arrondissement). If your accommodation has cooking facilities you’re set, especially for wine and cheese, a decent bottle of French wine will set you back all of about €3-€5, while the very good stuff starts at around €7. Bottles for less than €3 are not recommended. Keep in mind that the small épiceries which open until late are more expensive than the supermarchés ( Casino, Monoprix, Franprix, etc). For wine, the price difference can be up to €2. A must do while in Paris is to buy a baguette, some cheese and a good bottle of wine and join the Parisian youth for a pique-nique along the Seine (especially on the Île Saint-Louis) or along the Canal Saint-Martin. The finest food stores are Lafayette Gourmet in the Galeries Lafayette or La Grande Epicerie in the luxury department store Le Bon Marché. They are worth discovering. You will find a large variety of wines there, otherwise try wine stores such as Nicolas or Le Relais de Bacchus (all over the city). somE sPEcialitiEs For seafood lovers, Paris is a great place to try moules frites (steamed mussels and French fries) (better in fall and winter), oysters, sea snails, and other delicacies. Meat specialties include venison (deer), boar, and other game (especially in the fall and winter hunting season), as well as French favourites such as lamb, veal, beef, and pork. PricEs Eating out in Paris can be expensive. However don’t believe people when they say you can’t do Paris on the cheap - you can! The key is to stay away from the beaten tracks and the obviously expensive Champs Elysees. Around the lesser visited quarters especially, there are many cheap and yummy restaurants to be found. The key is to order from the Prix-Fixe menu, and NOT off the A la Carte menu unless you want to pay an arm and a leg. In many places a three course meal can be found for about Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 48 15 euros, £10, $20. This way you can sample the food cheaply and is usually more “French”. Ask for “une carafe d’eau” (oon karaaf doe) to get free tap water. The best and cheapest way to get around Paris is on foot, and secondly, using the Metro which is around one euro ten cents for a one way trip of any length. In the artsy quarters of 1 and 4, there are many bargains to be had once again, if you are prepared to look. Souvenirs are easily found and can be really inexpensive as long as you don’t buy from the tourist sites. For cheap books of French connection, try the University/Latin quarter as they sell books in all languages starting from half a euro each. koshEr dining Paris has the largest number of Kosher restaurants in any European city. Walk up and down Rue des Rosiers to see the variety and choices available from Israeli, Sushi, Italian and others. vEgEtarian dining For vegetarians, eating traditional French food will require some improvisation, as it is heavily meat-based. For fast food and snacks, you can always find a vegetarian sandwich or pizza. Even a kebab shop can make you something with just cheese and salad, or perhaps falafel. Paris has several excellent vegetarian restaurants. Look for spots such as Aquarius in the 4th, and Le Grenier de Notre-Dame in the 5th, or La Victoire Suprême du Coeur in the 1st just to name a few. See the arrondissement pages for more listings. There are also lots of Italian, Thai, Indian, and Mezo-american places where you will have little problem. In Rue des Rosiers (4th arrondissement) you can get delicious falafel in the many Jewish restaurants. Another place to look for falafel is on Rue Oberkampf (11th arrondissement). Take away falafel usually goes for 4€ or less. Moroccan and Algerian cooking is common in Paris - vegetarian couscous is lovely. Another good option for vegetarians - are traiteurs, particularly around Ledru Rollin (down the road from Created for michael arrington Paris, France 49 Bastille) take away food where you can combine a range of different options such as pomme dauphinoise, dolmas, salads, vegetables, nice breads and cheeses and so on. Lebanese restaurants and snack shops abound as well, offering a number of vegetarian mezze, or small plates. The standbys of course are hummas, falafel, and baba-ganouche (caviar d’aubergine). A good place to look for Lebanese is in the pedestrian zone around Les Halles and Beaubourg in the 1st and 4th. tourists and locals When you are looking for a restaurant in Paris, be a little careful of those where the staff readily speak English. These restaurants are usually - but not always - geared towards tourists. It does make a difference in the staff ’s service and behaviour whether they expect you to return or not. Sometimes the advertised fixed price tourist menus (€10-€15) are a good deal. If you’re interested in the really good and more authentic stuff (and if you have learned some words of French) try one of the small bistro where the French go to during lunch time. drink The bars scene in Paris really does have something for everyone. From bars which serve drinks in babies bottle, to ultra luxe clubs that require some name dropping, or card (black Amex) showing, and clubs where you can dance like no one’s watching, (although they will be). To start your night out right, grab a drink or two in a ubiquitous dive bar, before burning up the dance floor and spreading some cash, at one of the trendy clubs. St Martin. Many cozy cafés and other drinking establishments abound around the Canal St Martin in the 10th. ■■ The Marais. The Marais boasts a large number of trendier new bars mostly in the 4th and to a lesser extent the 3rd with a few old charmers tossed into the mix. A number of bars and restaurants in the Marais have a decidedly gay crowd, but are usually perfectly friendly to straights as well. Some ■■ Canal Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 50 seem to be more specifically aimed at up-and-coming hetero singles. ■■ Bastille. There is a very active nightlife zone just to the northeast of Place de Bastille centered around rue de Lappe, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (especially the amazing Club Barrio Latino) and rue de Charonne in the 11th. Many of the bars closest to Bastille have either a North, Central, or South American theme, with a couple of Aussie places mixed in for good measure, and as you continue up rue de Charonne the cafés have more of a traditionally French but grungy feeling. ■■ Quartier Latin - Odeon. If you’re looking for the nouvelle vogue style, student and intellectual atmosphere of Paris in the 60s and 70s, you’ll find a lot of that (and more hip + chique) places in the quartier Latin and between place Odeon and the Seine. The neighborhood is also home of many small artsy cinemas showing non-mainstream films and classics (check ‘Pariscope’ or ‘l’officiel du spectacle’ at any newspaper stand for the weekly programme). ■■ Rue Mouffetard and environs. The area in the 5th on the south side of the hill topped by the Panthéon has a little bit of everything for the nighthawk, from the classy cafés of Place de la Contrescarpe to an Irish-American dive bar just down the way to a hip, nearly hidden jazz café at the bottom of the hill. ■■ Châtelet. In some ways the Marais starts here in the 1st between Les Halles and Hôtel de Ville but with between all of the tourists and the venerable Jazz clubs on rue des Lombards the area deserves some special attention. ■■ Montmartre. You’ll find any number of cozy cafés and other drinking establishments all around the Butte de Montmartre in the 18th, especially check out rue des Abesses near the Métro station of the same name. ■■ Oberkampf-Ménilmontant. If you are wondering where you can find the hipsters (bobos for bohemian-bourgeois), then look no further. There are several clusters of grungy-hip bars all along rue Oberkampf in the 11th, and stretching well into the 20th up the hill on rue de Ménilmontant. It’s almost like being in San Francisco’s Haight-Fillmore district. ■■ Rues des Dames-Batignolles. Another good place to find the grungy-chic crowd is the northern end of the 17th around rue des Dames and rue de Batignolles, and if you decide you Created for michael arrington Paris, France 51 want something a little different Montmartre is just around the corner. ■■ Port de Tolbiac. This previously deserted stretch of the river Seine in the 13th was re-born as a center for nightlife (and Sunday-afternoon-life) a few years ago when an electronic music cooperative opened the Batofar. Nowadays there are a number of boats moored along the same quai, including a boat with a Caribbean theme, and one with an Indian restaurant. ■■ Saint Germain des Prés. This area boasts two of the most famous cafés in the world: Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots, both catering to the tourists and the snobs who can afford their high prices. This part of the 6th is where the Parisian café scene really started, and there still are hundreds of places to pull up to a table, order a glass, and discuss Sartre deep into the evening. For individual bar listings see the various Arrondissement pages under Get around. Of course there are lots of interesting places which are sort of off on their own outside of these clusters, including a few like the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz which are not to be missed in a serious roundup of Parisian drinking, so check out the listings even in those arrondissements we haven’t mentioned above. Some nightclubs in Paris that are worth it: Folies Pigalle (pl. Pigalle, 18th, very trash, famous for its after, 20 euros), Rex Club (near one of the oldest cinema on earth, the Grand Rex, house/electro, about 15 euros cheap). You might also want to try Cabaret (Palais Royal), Maison Blanche, le Baron (M AlmaMarceau). Remember when going out to dress to impress, you are in Paris! Torn clothing and sneakers are not accepted. The better you look the most likely you will get past the random decisions of club bouncers. Also important to remember if male (or in a group of guys) that it will be more difficult to enter clubs, try to always have an equal male/female ratio. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 52 slEEP Generally one should be aware that Paris hotels, almost without regard to category or price, observe high and low seasons. These differ slightly from one hotel to another, but usually the high season roughly corresponds to late spring and summer, and possibly a couple of weeks around the Christmas season. Be aware that when a hotel is listed in any guide or website this will eventually make it a bit harder to get a room at that hotel. That means that you will probably need to book ahead, especially in the high season. However, if they don’t have a room they sometimes know another place close by that does have a room available. When with two it can be a much better deal to find a hotel room than to get 2 hostel beds. More privacy for less money. For individual hotel listings see the various Arrondissement pages under Get around. For those who are staying for a while renting a furnished apartment might be a more comfortable and money-saving option. Furnished apartments differ considerably in quality, so it is important to choose carefully. There are a huge number of websites in the business of helping you find one, but most charge a steep commission of 10% or more. There are however a couple of considerably cheaper non-profit options which for whatever reason do not turn up near the top of a Google search: ■■ Allô Logement Temporaire, 64, rue du Temple (Métro: Hôtel de Ville or Rambuteau). This non-profit apartment placement association will place you in contact with an apartment owner, and provide translation service if necessary. They charge an annual fee of 50€ for renters, plus €35 per months you actually stay in Paris. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 53 hotEl chains ■■ Accor Hotels in Paris. The hotels Sofitel, Novotel, Mercure, Ibis, Formule 1 and Etaphotel in Paris (the latter can be very reasonable) ■■ Louvre Hotels in Paris. The hotels Campanile, Kyriad, Kyriad Prestige, and Premiere Classe in Paris (the latter can be very reasonable) crimE Crime in Paris is similar to most large cities, but violent crime is uncommon in the heart of the city. Pickpockets are active on the rail link (RER) from Charles de Gaulle airport to downtown Paris and on the number one metro (subway) line that cuts across the city center east to west servicing many of the major tourist sites. A common scheme is for one thief to distract the tourist with questions or disturbance while an accomplice picks pockets, a backpack or purse. Thieves often time their crime to coincide with the closing of the automatic doors on the metro, leaving the victim secured on the departing train. Many thefts also occur at the major department stores (Galeries Lafayette, Printemps) where tourists leave wallets, passports and credit cards on cashier counters during transactions. Popular tourist sites are also popular hunting grounds for thieves who favour congested areas to mask their activities. The crowded elevators at the Eiffel Tower, escalators at museums and the area around the Sacre Cœur church in Montmartre are all favoured by pickpockets and snatch-and-run thieves. The area around the famous Moulin Rouge is known as Pigalle and best avoided after dark unless with a tour group headed for a show. Pigalle is an adult entertainment area known for prostitutes, sex shows and drugs. Unsuspecting tourists often run up exorbitant bar bills and are forced to pay before being permitted to leave. The Marché aux Puces (Les Puces) flea market is virtually designed to make pickpocketing easy and gangs can be witnessed spotting victims. Walkways are often crowded, narrow, dark, with no way out except to wait for the extraordinarily-slow walkers to move. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 54 However, there are some areas, like Barbès (18th), where it’s better not to hang around alone at night. In these areas, a lot depends on the way you behave and if you know how to adapt to the situation. If you know what you are looking for, speak some French and feel comfortable, there is no problem strolling around a neighborhood like Barbès. Also some parts of the banlieue are better to avoid, but the banlieue is, except for a very few tourist spots (Fontainebleau, Versailles, Basilique de St. Denis) not a place where the ordinary tourist will go anyway. The metro is relatively safe, but again, pickpockets do work in the stations and on the trains especially near tourist destinations. If you are carrying a bag make sure that it’s closed tightly. If you have a wallet in your pocket keep a hand on it while entering or exiting the trains. Don’t carry any more cash than you can afford to lose. Keep your cash on different parts of your body: some in your money belt, some in your purse/wallet, some in your shoe. Keep the contents of your purse/wallet to the bare essentials: money, one debit/credit card, I.D., emergency contact information, medical I.D. When you have to access your money belt, do so in private. Recent news reports have highlighted new tactics by thieves, targeting taxis on their way into the city from Charles de Gaulle airport. Thieves wait for the taxi to be stopped in the usual traffic jam along the A1 highway and break windows to get to the passengers’ bags. To avoid this, you may place your bags in the trunk of the taxi or take the very safe Air France shuttle. You should also beware of illegal taxis. At least one young foreign tourist has been murdered after getting into a car that was not - as she’d believed - an official Parisian taxi. Beware also of distraught-looking women and children asking if you can speak English. You’ll be presented with a card or letter with a story explaining something like “My mother is in hospital in another country terminally ill. I’m stuck in Paris with no money and I need to visit her.” You´ll encounter them at the major train and Métro stations (they are especially prevalent in and around Gare du Nord and Châtelet-Les Halles) and also at most major tourist attractions. Even on the Champs-Élysées. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 55 They are also prevalent around the Arc de Triomphe near the Embassy of Qatar. Some Parisian restaurants, particularly in the tourist-laden Latin Quarter, make a living ripping off tourists who are hampered by a language barrier. When ordering, particularly if ordering a “menu” or prix-fixe meal, point to the actual menu item and ensure you repeat the price. Eye contact works wonders, as does a modicum of conversational French. If the bill does not conform to what you order, complain and leave the restaurant without paying if this does not work. Beware of touristy areas where there are gamling stands with people playing. They are more than likely to be accompliances of the person manning the booth. They usually play with 3 black rubber coins to guess the one with a white piece of paper stuck underneath. You can never win at that as they swtich hands and do not let you open it yourself. If you ever get cheated there, shout at them loudly and refuse to let them go as they usually operate in crowded places. Another thing to be wary of is people asking where do you come from with strings in their hand. They will make small talk with you while tying a friendship band around your finger. After that they will demand money from you. Be aware that there are hefty fines for littering in Paris. Since 2007, it is strictly forbidden to smoke in enclosed areas (train stations, subway stations, buildings), and since 1 Jan 2008, smoking is not permitted in restaurants and bars, exepct for outside seating areas. rEsPEct Paris has, in many respects, an atmosphere closer to that of New York than to that of London, Lyon, or any other European town; that is, hurried, and businesslike. Parisians have a reputation for being rude and arrogant. Some of their reputation for brusqueness may stem from the fact that they are constantly Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 56 surrounded by tourists, who can sometimes themselves seem rude and demanding. This is not to say that Parisians are, by nature, rude. On the contrary: there are a considerable number of rules defining what is rude and what is polite in Parisian interpersonal relationships; if anything, the Parisians are more polite than most (This should be no surprise, though, when one considers the fact that “etiquette” is a French word). Thus, the best way to get along in Paris is to be on your best behavior, acting like someone who is “bien élevé” (well brought up) will make getting about considerably easier. Parisians’ abrupt exteriors will rapidly evaporate if you display some basic courtesies. A simple “Bonjour, Madame” when entering a shop, for example, or “Excusez-moi” when trying to get someone’s attention, or very important; say “Pardon” if you bump into someone accidentally or make other mistakes, will transform the surliest shop assistant into a smiling helper or the grumpiest inhabitant to an helpful citizen. Courtesy is extremely important in France (where the worst insult is to call someone “mal élevé”, or “badly brought up”). A particularly useful phrase to know is “Pardonezmoi de vous déranger, monsieur/madame, mais auriez-vous la gentilesse de m’aider?” (pardon me for bothering you, sir/ madam, but would you have the kindness to help me?) - it’s about the closest one can come to a magic wand for unlocking Parisian hospitality. If you know some French, try it! Like city dwellers everywhere, Parisians generally expect people to speak in a measured voice when in a crowded place. They are likely to look down on people who talk very loudly in a train or subway car. Keep in mind that the people around you in the Métro are not on vacation, in general: they are going to or coming back from work and thus may not appreciate another source of headache. In addition, if you are travelling to or from the airport or train station and have luggage with you, make certain that you are not blocking the aisles in the train by leaving your bags on the floor. The RER B (which links both Orly and Charles de Gaulle airports to the city) has luggage racks above the seats; it is advised that you use them so you do not block the path of a local who is getting off the train before the airport stop. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 57 Also bear in mind that the vast majority of the Parisian population are not in any way connected to the tourism business. You are not in a resort or theme park, with paid personnel meant to give you directions around, but in a city where people have to get on with their lives. But if you ask politely, most of the French will help you if they can. contact One helpful thing about having official and numbered districts in Paris is that you can easily tell which arrondissement an address is in by its postal code, and can easily come up with the postal code for a Paris address if you know its arrondissement. The rule is just pre-pend 750 or 7500 to the front of the arrondissement number, with 75001 being the postal code for the 1st and 75011 being the postal code for the 11th, and so on. coPE Although known as the fashion capital, Paris is actually quite conservative in dress. So if you go out in bright colors expect to be stared at, especially dressed like so in certain arrondissements such as 9th and 18th where you may attract unwanted attention of an evening. Phone cards are available from most “Tabacs” but make sure you know where to use them when you buy them, as some places still sell the cartes cabines which are hard to work, and cabines are rare. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 58 gEt out - The 12th century cathedral of Notre Dame at Chartres is one of the highlights of Gothic architecture. ■■ Versailles - On the SW edge of Paris, the site of the Sun King Louis XIV’s magnificent palace. ■■ Saint Denis - On the northern edge of the metropolis, site of the Stade de France and St Denis Abbey, burial place of French royalty. ■■ Chantilly - Wonderful 17th century palace and gardens (and the birthplace of whipped cream). ■■ Giverny - The inspirational house and gardens of the Impressionist painter Claude Monet are but a day-trip away. ■■ Disneyland Resort Paris - In the suburb of Marne-la-Vallée, to the east of Paris, from where it can be reached by car, train, or bus (the train is probably your best bet). ■■ Parc Astérix - North of Paris, may be reached via a shuttle bus from CDG Airport. París Paris Parizo París Pariisi Paris Párizs Parigi ?? Parijs Paryz Paris Paris Paris Paris Europe/France/Regions/Ile-de-France/Paris/ europe/france/paris Paris Paris ■■ Chartres Created for michael arrington Paris, France 59 {{title-iconsdotm-icon} Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 60 paris/1st arrondissement The center of contemporary Paris and the site of the Louvre and secondary palaces of the Tuileries and Palais-Royal, the 1st Arrondissement is full of attractions for travelers of all inclinations, including some of the finest parks, museums, shops, and bars in the city. The 1st occupies the Right Bank of the River Seine and extends onto the western section of the Île de la Cité in the midst of the river. For occupying such a compact space, however the 1st feels remarkably different from one end to the other. The almost incredibly upscale western end of the arrondissement gives way to the hustle and bustle of the big city east of the Palais Royal, and then further east to the pedestrian (and tourist) dominated area around Les Halles and the (currently shuttered) Samaritaine, where tourists mix with (especially young) Parisiens and Parisiennes in huge numbers (on the order of 800,000 unique visitors per day according to the Mayor’s office). undErstand Paris was historically centered on the Ile de la cité, but by the time Baron von Hausmann was given the task of dividing the city, the center had shifted somewhat to the previously suburban Royal Quarter surrounding the Louvre and the Palais Royal. gEt in Travelers arriving at one of the airports will probably get in via the RER-B line at the formidable Métro station Châtelet/Les Halles, read on for details. by ‘’métro’’ Châtelet/Les Halles, the hub for the 1 and D lines is the largest and busiest of all Métro stations. There exists a total of seven entrances/exits scattered around the eastern end of the 1st Arrondissement, concentrated (not surprisingly) between Les Halles and Place du Châtelet, and also accessing the basement of the Les Halles shopping mall itself. If you are in a hurry—or have never used this station previously—it might be better to alight Created for michael arrington Paris, France 61 one Métro stop earlier or later. Of course, if you are transferring to or traveling on one of the RER lines, brace yourself. Châtelet/ Les Halles is a French equivalent for New York City’s Grand Central Station. Line 1 line crosses travels the length of the arrondissement, arriving from Chateau de Vincinnesin the east via Gare de Lyon, and La Défence in the west. Most of the stations are fairly easy to use with the exception of Châtelet/Les-Halles. If you have a choice go for Palais-Royale/Musée-de-Louvre or Tuileries. Line 14 line is the newest metro line, and probably the best way to arrive from Gare de Lyon, and thus from Switzerland or the South of France since it is a fully automated express train. Think of it as a sort of a horizontal elevator. It stops at Châtelet/ Les-Halles and Pyramides. Line 7 cuts diagonally across from the northwest to the southeast or the other way depending on how you look at it. Entering from the southwest (perhaps Gare d Austerlitz) you’ll want to get off at Pont Neuf. Line 4 runs north and south through the east end of the arrondissement, mostly under Châtelet. Again, we prefer the Cité or Etienne-Marcel stops to the Châtelet madness. All four RER lines cross the arrondissement and stop at Chatelet/ Les-Halles. gEt around Having arrived in the 1st arrondissement walking will most likely suffice for transport. That said, Paris cabs are quite cheap. Still, even they don’t have access to much of the carfree eastern end of the arrondissement. If traveling from east to west by Métro you are probably best off using any other stations than Châtelet/Les Halles unless you have to connect there. Although the Métro trains themselves are fast and frequent, the crowded labyrinth at Châtelet can make getting to the trains an adventure. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 62 landmarks ■■ Le Louvre (Métro: Palais Royal/Louvre). Open daily except Tuesdays and certain public holidays. Permanent collections 9 am to 6 pm (Wed and Fri til 10 pm). Under the pyramid is open 9 am to 10 pm. The primary landmark of the 1st arrondissement: as well as housing one of the world’s great museums since 1793, the former palace offers some dazzling architecture, wide public spaces and the glass pyramid of I M Pei. Of course there’s also quite a bit to see inside the building see our coverage under Museums below. ■■ Jardin des Tuileries (Métro: Tuileries). Originally adjoining the now-disappeared royal palace of the Tuileries, these gardens lying immediately west of the Louvre offer a central open space for Parisians and visitors with semi-formal gardens (an outdoor gallery for modern sculpture), various cafés, ice-cream and crépe stalls and a summer fun fair. The gardens are frequently home to a giant ferris wheel and enclose the Musée de la Orangerie and the Jeu de Paume (see below). ■■ Colonne Vendôme (Métro: Opéra). The centerpiece of a magnificent 8-sided square first laid out in 1699 to show off an equestrian statue of the Sun King, Louis XIV. The statue was removed amidst Revolutionary fervor in 1792 and replaced in 1806 with the Colonne de la Grande Armée. This was modeled on Trajan’s column in Rome and decorated with Napoleon’s military exploits. The present column is a replica, however, as the original was pulled down during the 1871 Paris Commune. Place Vendôme represents the best of well-heeled Paris, being home to an abundance of exclusive boutiques, jewelers and fashion labels - Cartier, Boucheron, Trussardi, van Cleef & Arpels - several banks, the French Ministry of Justice and the Ritz Hotel. ■■ Le Palais Royal. 730pm in the winter with hours varying in the spring and Autumn months. Ordered by Cardinal de Richelieu (1585-1642), King Louis XIIIth’s prime Minister in 1629 (completed in 1636) originally called Palais Cardinal it became Le Palais Royal when Anne d’Autriche, Louis XIIIth’s wife, came to live here to get away from the Louvre palace. It eventually housed Louis the XIVth until the move to Versailles. It includes also a beautiful garden Les jardins du Pal- Created for michael arrington Paris, France 63 ais Royal, enclosed within the buildings. It’s been the theater of one of the seminal events of the French Revolution (Camille Desmoulins made a famous declaration here in 1789). The Théatre Français nearby was built in 1716. There are numerous restaurants inside the garden , including famous Le Grand Véfour. There’s also the controversial Colonnes de Buren, striped columns installed within the inside yard among the XVIIth century architecture. ■■ Saint Eustache (Located near Les Halles and the Bourse de Commerce). This massive church is one of the best standing examples of the early Gothic style. ■■ Sainte Chapelle, 4 blvd du Palais (Métro: Cité). Soaring stained glass windows beaming ample light onto the rich primary colors of the tile mosaics on the floor, this photogenic church was built by the French kings to house the relics of the Crown of Thorns - far more beautiful than the famous, but gloomy, Notre Dame which is nearby. The chapelle is located inside the Courts of Justice, there will thus be a security check. ■■ La Conciergerie (Métro: Cité). open daily 9.30am - 6.30pm April - September daily 10 am - 5 pm October - March, entry €6.10, concessions and guided tours available, under-18s free - the ancient medieval fortress and prison of the city’s island, site of some remarkable medieval royal architecture and the scene of Marie Antoinette’s imprisonment in the period leading to her execution in 1793 - lots of Revolutionary associations. musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Musée du Louvre, Place du Carrousel (Métro: Louvre). open daily 10am-6pm, closed Tuesdays and some public holidays, evening openings We and Fr until 9.45pm, 1st Su of the month. Free admission for all, general admission (not including special exhibitions) adults €8.50, evening openings adults €6, special exhibition €8.50 combined ticket (museum + special exhibition) adults €13, evening openings €11 Carte Musée. On a par with London’s British Museum and New York’s Metropolitan Museum, the Louvre is a showcase of world cultures throughout history. Its exhibits come from such diverse origins as ancient Egypt, classical Greece and Rome, medieval Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 64 Europe and Napoleonic France. Its most famous exhibit, of course, is Leonardo da Vinci’s painting of the Mona Lisa (French: La Joconde, Italian: La Gioconda), generally to be found surrounded by hordes of camera-flashing tourists. If you want to see everything in the Louvre, plan at least two full days. However, it is better to pick and choose, as the collection was assembled with an eye to completeness rather than quality. ■■ l’Orangerie. open daily, except Tu, Christmas Day and 1st May individuals 12.30pm-7pm, until 9pm Th groups 9.30am12.30pm admission €6.50 adults, concessions €4.50, special exhibition + €1.20 audio guides available in several languages €4.50 / €3 - recently reopened after extensive renovations, this small museum near the Louvre houses the Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume Collection, sold to the French Republic on very generous terms and numbering 143 paintings from the late 19th century and the first half of the 20th century (15 Cézannes, 24 Renoirs, 10 Matisses, 12 Picassos, 28 Derains, 22 Soutines… ). The collection joined the eight immense Water Lilies that Monet gave France in 1922 and which have been displayed since 1927 in two huge oval rooms purpose-built on the artist’s instructions. ■■ Jeu de Paume (northwestern corner of the Jardin des Tuileries). Built during the First Empire, in imitation of the Orangerie this small building is used by the Galerie Nationale to mount shows dedicated to lesser known, but nonetheless interesting artists, or (sometimes) the lesser known works of the Great Masters. This museum once housed many of the Impressionist painters that are now to be found in the Musée d’Orsay on the other side of the River Seine. ■■ Musée des Arts décoratifs, 107, rue de Rivoli. Around the corner from the Musée du Louvre at Rue de Rivoli 107 - monument to the French art de vivre, housed in a 19th-century wing of the Louvre that has been restored to Beaux-Arts splendor, its galleries and period rooms showcasing eight centuries of Gallic taste in interior decoration. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 65 do One of the great joys of a visit to Paris is to simply walk around and explore to get the feel of the city. The 1st is as good a place to start as any, with the largely car-free section around Les Halles, and the right bank of the river Seine as good places to start. As a little bonus if you are in Paris in the summer time, the express lanes at river level are converted to an all pedestrian road called “Paris Plage” which fills with rollerbladers and sun-bathers just about every afternoon. A number of Paris theaters are located in the eastern end of the 1st. English language productions are not unheard of, but the opera is likely to be in Italian anyhow. Your best bet if you are interested in finding a show in either language is to pick up a copy of Pariscope which you can find at any newsstand for around 0.50€. There are ticket outlets at Forum Les Halles(FNAC) among other locations. buy ■■ Forum les Halles (Métro: Les Halles). Open daily from 9am to 7pm. In the late 1960s what was Paris’ primary farmers’ market moved out to the suburbs to be replaced by a park above ground, and a sprawling underground shopping center below. The interior design is strikingly period (think Logan’s Run). The place is showing its age now, but still draws nearly a half-million parisien/ennes per day, mostly teenagers. There’s a movie theater and a media library too. ■■ Rue Montorgueil (Métro: Les Halles or Etienne-Marcel). To the north and west of Les Halles almost all of the streets are car-free including this one, on which you can find a wide range of food shops including two great bakers, a fish market, and a bio organic foods store. ■■ Le Carrousel du Louvre. A diverse underground shopping precinct adjoining the Louvre Museum. ■■ W.H. Smith, 248 rue de Rivoli (Métro: Concorde). Monday through Saturday 930pm. The largest English language bookshop in Paris carries many of the newest releases. Monday ■■ Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré (Métro: Tuileries). through Saturday 1100pm. One of the most interesting shop- Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 66 ping experiences anywhere, an eclectic collection of design, fashion, gadgets and music ■■ Librairie Galgnani, 224 rue Rivoli (Métro : Concorde). British & American bookshop, specialized in fine arts. Eat The 1st provides rather a wide range of eating possibilities, considering its central location and overall poshness. A large variety of inexpensive food is sold out of windows and stalls, especially on the car-free east end of the arrondissement near Les Halles. You’ll always pay a bit more to sit down, of course. On the other hand if you are looking for a nice posh place to take your mom or a date there are plenty, and some of them actually have food that is good enough to be worth the considerable prices. budgEt ■■ La Crypte Polska, place Maurice Barrés (Métro: Concorde). Noon-3pm and 7pm to 10pm. Closed Monday. Believe it or not this little Polish restaurant is in the crypt under the church of Our Lady of the Assumption, and the Catholic-mystic decor alone makes a visit worthwhile. Plus the pirogies are about as good as you are going to find in Paris. Expect to pay 12 to 20€ per person for the whole meal. ■■ Lemoni Café (Métro: Palais Royal). mid-rangE ■■ Café Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli / cour Napoléon du Louvre (Métro: Palais Royal). Open daily 8 am - 2 pm. Part of the Grand Louvre redevelopment, Café Marly was opened in 1994 and is situated within the balcony on the northern terrace of the Cour Napoléon. Patrons can enjoy the direct views of the Louvre Pyramid whilst sitting back in comfortable chairs, watching tourists stroll by whilst supping on slightly / not outrageously above-average-price brasserie selections (you’re paying a premium for the location!)-- Especially rec- Created for michael arrington Paris, France 67 ommended : Sunday morning Brunch! Stunning view in the rising sun. ■■ Aux Trois Oliviers, 37 bis rue de Montpensier (Métro: Palais Royal-Louvre). This colorful and non-pretentious restaurant offers a range of dishes from throughout France and around the world. The mojitos are said to be quite good, as is the wine list. There’s live entertainment (chansons français) each Friday night. Expect to spend around 15€ per person at lunch or 20€ at night. ■■ Chez Denise, 5 rue Prouvaires (Métro: Les Halles). Tues-Sun: noon-200am. Starters are from 10-12€ and main courses are 18-25€, then there’s the wine. ■■ La Robe et le Palais, 13 rue des Lavandieres Sainte Opportune. Mon-Sat: noon-1400. A small restaurant serving mostly tasty Basque food. Fantastic choice of wines. sPlurgE ■■ Point Bar, 40 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré (Métro: Opéra or Pyramides). Alice Bardet, the daughter of a famous French chef de cuisine, Jean Bardet, has provided a prime example of great French restauranteering for the rest of us as a way of making her own name in the business. She is said to have grown up in her parent’s restaurant, and has brought the style, the techniques, and a feeling for quality ingredients along. Lunchtime Menus start at just 15€, but the prices move toward the splurge category at night when you’ll spend around 40€ per person ordering à la carte. ■■ Maceo, 15, rue des Petits Champs (Métro: Pyramides). What was once just a great wine bar with decent food has become a must-visit restaurant with the addition of star chef Thierry Bourbonnais. The second-empire atmosphere sets the stage for the fantastic food, making this a great value for a not terribly pricey splurge. Starters run 13-18€ and main courses are 25-28€. There’s even a Vegetarian menu for around 30€. drink ■■ Bar Hemingway, 15 Place Vendôme (Métro: Pyramides). Hemingway tried to drink here once per week even before he made it. Afterwords it was his favorite: when in August Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 68 of 1944 Hemingway made a booze-powered drive into Paris ahead of the advancing Free French 2nd tank division it was to “liberate the Ritz”, and specifically the bar which was shortly thereafter re-named in his honor. Today the bar is considered by many to be one of the best bars in the world, in no small part due to the bar-tending skills of Colin Field, who creates elaborate cocktails as a fine art, and with the rest of the staff is skilled at bringing his guests together in conversation. ■■ Le Comptoir Paris-Marrakech, 37, rue Berger (Métro: Les Halles). A swank drinking and people watching spot on a corner across from the park above Les Halles. There are nice stuffed couches all over the room, and meze snacks are served. The place picks up speed a bit in the evening, attracting quite a mixed crowd. ■■ Le Cab, 2, Place du Palais Royal (Métro: Palais Royal/Louvre). Featuring several spaces for divergent tastes, the Cabaret has an all white Easy-Listener space, a tropical cabana, a gigantic dance floor and more. The sounds vary from hip-hop to house to R’n’B. Expect to pay 8€ for beer and 13€ for a mixed drink, assuming the bouncers let you in. ■■ Café Oz, 18, rue Saint Denis. You probably didn’t think you were coming to Paris to sample Australian culture, but if after a long day of strolling from one end of the city to another you would just like to let go a bit and meet up with some fellow Anglophones then you could do a lot worse than this almost legendarily hard-partying Aussie joint (ask the neighbors). Warning: as with other Aussie places in Paris for some reason, weekend nights here tend to bring out hoards of young single Frenchmen looking to chat up some (any) visiting anglophonette. This has been known to lead to, um, confrontations. ~7€ Pints. ■■ Juvénile’s, 47 rue Richelieu. Nice wine + tapas bar cum wine shop : nice food, nice wines from around the world, & you can buy a bottle to take home if you like it! ■■ Willi’s Wine Bar, 13 rue des Petits Champs. It’s actually a restaurant and is more upscale than ‘Juvéniles’, serving good food and good to great bottles of wines (Beaujolais, Australian...but no Bordeaux: The landlord is quoted as saying “I Created for michael arrington Paris, France 69 don’t believe in Bordeaux”. Great cheeses & deserts (yummy crumble)) Reservation recommended. slEEP Some of the most opulent hotels in the world are located either in or very close to the 1st arrondissement, and there’s some choice in the mid-range. Budget travelers, on the other hand are probably better off in other, less central parts of town. contact The 1st arrondissement postal code is 75001. intErnEt caFés La Baguenaude, 30, rue Grande-Truanderie (Métro: Les Halles). This all SUSE Linux shop offers 1/2 hour (2.30€), hour (3.80€), and 2 hour (6.10€) time slots. They also offer courses in the use of KDE and the Gimp (in French of course). WirElEss hotsPots There are a number of cafés in each arrondissement which offer Free wireless for drinking customers (for 20 minutes at a time). Here are a couple in the first: ■■ Le Commerce, 12, rue Coquillère (Métro: Etienne Marcel). Flottes, 2, rue Cambon (Métro: Concorde). ■■ Tabac du Châtelet, 8, rue Saint Denis (Métro: Châtelet). ■■ Café du Pont Neuf, 14, quai du Louvre (Métro: Pont Neuf ). ■■ Chez A complete listing is available from the company which provides the service: ■■ HotCafe, 56, rue du Temple. Phone support available from 9am to 10pm. Of course many hotels also offer wireless connectivity, but usually for a fee. Paris/1er arrondissement Parijs/1e_arrondissement Ier arrondissement Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 70 Paris {{title-iconsstar-icon} Created for michael arrington Paris, France 71 paris/2nd arrondissement The 2nd Arrondissement of Paris is one of the financial centers of Europe, being home to the Bourse (Stock exchange) and thus the CAC 40 index you hear about in world financial news. Other major activities in the neighborhood are journalism and fashion. The 2nd is also home to the galleries -- covered passages lined with shops -- which are quite possibly the prototypes of today’s shopping malls. While the aforementioned are all daylight activities the eastern end of the arrondissement has an entirely different reputation, having been home to Paris’ red-light district since sometime in the early renaissance. ‘’by métro’’ The 2nd Arrondissement is well served by Métro lines, being right in the middle of the city. Line 8 runs right across the northern edge of the arrondissement with stops every 200 meters or so. Take your pick, all of the stations are small, and unless you’re making a connection just as good as another. The line connects to the 12th and the 7th arrondisements. Line 3 runs east-west right through the center of the arrondissement, down rue Quatre Septembre and rue Réaumur. musEums Etc. ■■ la Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Richelieu, 58 rue Richelieu (Métro: Bourse or Palais-Royal). Especially try to visit the cabinet des Médailles. architEcturE The 2nd arrondissement covers some of the nicest old parts of Paris. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 72 ■■ Place des Victoires. Beautiful round ‘square’ with an equestrian statue of King Louis the XIVth and matching XVIIth century buildings. ■■ Notre Dame des Victoires. XVIIth century church, history There have been dozens of attempts by various regimes at all levels including the city, the state and the church to chase the ladies of “love for a price” away from the eastern end of the second arrondissement, but for some reason they always come back. Interestingly, the word “bordello” originates here from the boards that the women used to subdivide the rooms they rented in houses along the rue Saint Denis and others. The press has had nearly as long a run in the neighborhood just to the west, and several of France’s major newspapers still maintain offices here. ■■ La Tour Jean-sans-Peur, 20 rue Étienne-Marcel (Métro: Étienne-Marcel). One of the last reminants of medieval Paris outside of the 4th, this tower was once part of a castle called l’hôtel de Bourgogne thE gallEriEs Prototypical of indoor shopping malls the Galleries got their start in 1786 when the Duke of Orleans realized that there was money to be made by renting out his cloistered garden to small shops. With their glass roofs and tiled floors they were a welcome respite to the newly emerging middle class shopper of the early 19th century, in the days before electric light and sidewalks. A walking tour of the galleries can easily be accomplished in an hour or so, and is worthwhile even though they are long past their glory days. ■■ La Galerie Vivienne. The best preserved of the galleries, the décor of the Vivienne has been maintained in authentic colors from the era, but it’s really the mosaic floor which is the star of the show. The shops are distinctly upscale, and all Created for michael arrington Paris, France 73 about conspicuous consumption: a wine seller, a tea shop, and a dealer in antique books are among the highlights. ■■ Passage Choiseul. A considerably more down-to-earth gallery, the passage mainly serves traders on their way to the Bourse, with the same class of shops that one might find in a pedestrian tunnel in New York or Chicago: a shoeshine stand, a newsstand, and little almost-but-not-quite fast-food restaurants. ■■ Passage des Panoramas. ■■ Passages des Princes. ■■ Passage du Grand-Cerf. othEr shoPs ■■ Brentano’s, 37 avenue de l’Opéra (Métro Opéra). BritishAmerican Bookshop, good choice of Fine Arts books, etc. budgEt ■■ Exki, 9, Boulevard des Italiens (Métro: Opéra or Quatre-Septembre). High quality fast food with an emphasis on freshness and a slight bent for the exotic. ■■ Bourgainville, 5, rue de la Banque (Métro: Bourse). This comfy little bar offers down-home cooking from the Auverge region, and after-work drinks for the financial set. ■■ Rani Mahal, 9 Rue Saint-Augustin. This Indian restaurant is raved about by vegetarians, but serves meat as well. mid-rangE ■■ Café Etienne Marcel, 34, rue Etienne Marcel (Métro: Etienne Marcel). A Costes brothers’ creation but with lower prices than many of their other restaurants, the Etienne Marcel combines a creative menu with hip interior design and hip musical ambience. Vegetarians: The crispy risotto balls (risotto croustillant) are amazing, and pretty much impossible to make at home. 15-20 Euro ■■ Le Loup Blanc, 42 rue Tiquetonne (Métro: Etienne-Marcel). The White Wolf is interesting not only for the fact that it’s directly across the street from another restaurant called the Three Little Pigs, but also for the quality of the dishes in a Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 74 style that the chef likes to call “world food”. There is a vegetarian offering. ■■ Café Moderne, 40, rue Notre-Dame-des-Victoires (Métro: Bourse). drink ■■ The Frog & Rosbif, 116 rue St. Denis. As you probably know the English use the word “frog” as an ethnic slur for the French. You may not know that the word “Rosbif ” is the French ethnic slur for the English. Well, it seems that there are mostly no hard feelings over a pint, or so the presence of this chain of 6 English pubs in the French capital would tend to suggest. ■■ Footsie, 10-12, Rue Daunou. The drink prices fluctuate with supply and demand, just like at the nearby Bourse. Astute readers will note that the Footsie is an exchange index on the London stock exchange, which works because this is a moreor-less English style pub right down to the curry. ■■ Harry’s New York Bar, 5, Rue Daunou. The birthplace of the Bloody Mary, Harry’s was another Hemmingway hangout. ■■ Café Noir, 65, Rue Montmartre (Métro: Sentier or Bourse). A particularly fine example of a Paris café. contact The 2nd arrondissement postal code is 75002. Paris/2ème arrondissement Paris {{outline} Created for michael arrington Paris, France 75 paris/3rd arrondissement A quieter part of the ancient Marais neighborhood which is centered in the 4th, the 3rd is possibly one of the best places to live in Paris. There are several good open air markets, a gigantic covered flea market, and lots of great speciality food stores, especially along rue de Bretagne. The museums of the 3rd are among the best anywhere, including the Musée Picasso which contains both the master’s works and his collections, and the almost undefinable Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers which has on display the first prototypes of almost every important invention, including the first monoplane, numerous artifacts from the creation of the Statue of Liberty, and of course, Foucault’s Pendulum. ’’by métro’’ Station Arts et Metiers (3, 11) is probably the most convenient for the Musée des Arts et Metiers (obviously), but also within easy walking distance of all the attractions of the 3rd Station Republique (3, 5, 8, 9, 11) is located on the northern edge of the 3rd arrondissement, but superbly well-connected and therefore highly convenient sEE Picasso, 5 rue de Thorigny (Métro: Chemin Vert). 930pm. Most of the works by Picasso and others which were in the master’s possession at the time of his death are now on display here. ■■ Musée national des Arts et Métiers, 60 rue Réaumur (Métro : Arts et Métiers, Réaumur-Sébastopol, Bus 20, 38, 39, 47). ■■ Musée Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 76 open Tu-Su 10 am - 6 pm, Th until 9.30 pm, closed Mo and public holidays ■■ Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme, 71, rue du Temple. ■■ Musée de la Serrure, 1, rue de la Perle (Métro: Chemin-Vert). ■■ Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8 rue Elzévir (Métro: Saint-Paul). ■■ Musée Carnavalet, 23 rue de Sévigné (Métro: Saint-Paul (ligne 1), Chemin vert (ligne 8), Bus 29, 69, 76, 96). open Tu-Su 10 am - 6 pm, closed Mo and some public holidays, last tickets 5.30 pm, tel 01 44 59 58 58, fax 01 44 59 58 10, free entry to the permanent collection - contained within two historic houses (hotels), the museum explores the history of Paris through objects in over 140 separate rooms ■■ Les Archives Nationales. buy There’s a lot of stuff to buy in the 3rd, mainly in the side streets of the upper Marais down near the 4th. Of particular interest are the large number of men’s clothing stores on rue de Turenne. ■■ Au Réparateur de Bicyclettes, 44 Blvd de Sébastopol (Métro: Rambuteau). Monday to Saturday 10am to 8pm. If you would rather have a funkier bike than the ones you can rent from the RATP you would do a lot worse than checking out this little bicycle repair shop which also offers a wide range of new and used bikes. Their specialty in new bikes is Dutch and English bicycles, but some of the really nice ones are by the American company Scott. The used bikes start at around 75 Euros. Eat ■■ Le Petit Marché, 9 rue de Béarn (Métro: Chemin Vert). Open noon to 2:00am every day. This is one of those charming little Parisian bistros which is off on its own a little. The wait staff couldn’t possibly be friendlier so this is a good place to bring people to show them how nice Parisian dining can be. The food is in a higher class than the price range, and the Created for michael arrington Paris, France 77 folks who work here have an easy collegial or even familial way with each other, and with frequent guests. ■■ Chez Jenny, 39, boulevard du Temple. A super popular spot with young parisiens and parisiennes. The food must be good for it to be so consistently packed. ■■ Chez Janou, 2, Rue Roger Verlhomme. Chez Janou has such a pretty location that it’s worth an evening visit just for that. But the food and atmosphere are also amazing. Vegetarians be warned, the tortellini is not the token veggie dish there isn’t one. 18 Euro/person. ■■ Page 35 (4, rue du Parc Royal). The name apparently refers to some section of some newspaper or another apparently with social listings. The carte features fantastic crêpe opportunities making this a must for lunch or lingering over a carafe or two of the house wine. 8 Euros ■■ Le Potager du Marais, 22 rue Rambuteau. ■■ Camille, 24, rue des Francs-Bourgeois. Fantastic fresh French food, Euro 40 per person, it is worth the wait ■■ Le Pamphlet, 38 rue Debelleyme. Elaborate cuisine at very reasonable prices in a romantic fine dining setting. Our hit: cauliflower soup with mushroom ice (sic). €50 per Person. ■■ Le Potager du Marais, 22, rue Rambuteau. Vegetarian cooking in the French tradition as well. drink Enfants Rouge, 9, rue de Beauce. A completely traditional French bistro with a popular bar in the evenings. ■■ Andy Wahloo, 69 rue des Gravilliers. Andy Wahloo apparently means “I don’t have anything” in Arabic. The Moroccan artist who owns this place certainly means it as a play on words having done the decor as a Moorish take on Andy Warhol. ■■ Café des Musées, 49, Rue de Turenne. A bog standard and absolutely unpretentious bistro, the des Musées is a great ■■ Les Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 78 place to cool your heels over a glass or two of red or white after stomping around the Marais all day. ■■ Les Arts et Métiers, 51 rue Turbigo. An updated but otherwise standard Brasserie, the draw here is the crowd: young trendy locals love the place. ■■ Café Solo, 6 rue Dupuis. Located on a newly car-free street the Solo has a huge music collection which they are in the process of selling off at 6 Euros per CD. ■■ The Quiet Man, 5, rue des Haudriettes. This Irish pub has sessions and Irish music almost (but not quite) nightly. The atmosphere is tops for the genre. ■■ Léonard, 57 Rue De Turbigo (+33 1 48 04 07 55). If you like trendy décor this is your joint.Free Wi-Fi ■■ L’Attirail, 9, rue du Maire. Cool bar/club with concerts ranging from Jazz Manouche to contemporary swing. ■■ La Villa Kéops, 58, boulevard Sébastopol. The motif is Egyptian, while the clientele appears to be almost entirely gay men. Free WI-FI budgEt ■■ Hôtel du Marais, 2bis, rue Commines (Métro: Saint-SébastienFroissart). A great value for the location. The rooms are tiny but clean and well maintained. 60€ Singles, 70-88€ doubles. mid-rangE ■■ Austin’s Arts et Metiers Hôtel, 6, rue Montgolfier (Métro: Arts-et-Métiers). The rooms are small (as usual) and kept very clean. You are best off asking for something facing the front since the central courtyard is not very attractive. Particularly the 6th floor rooms are said to be quite nice. Singles for 92€, doubles 120€. contact Paris/3ème arrondissement Paris Created for michael arrington Paris, France 79 paris/4th arrondissement The 4th is a good chunk of what used to be medieval Paris, and you’ll find a lot left from that time on both islands and in the narrow streets of the lower Marais. Meanwhile there’s lots that’s contemporary to look at especially at the Centre Georges Pompidou where you’ll find a lot of the very best contemporary art. At night the 4th has several of the most active bar scenes most travelers will have ever seen, including the lower Marais district which is sometimes known as gay Paris although there are no shortage of bars catering to straight singles or a mixed crowd, or in the early evening even families. gEt in The 4th is a very centrally located arrondissement, right between the Châtelet and Bastille areas, two of Paris’ main transportation (metro, RER and bus) hubs. by car Being such a touristy district it is very hard to find parking spaces. It’s much easier to use the Metro. by mEtro Several subway stations on lines 1, 4, 7 and 11 dot this area and are convenient for exploring its attractions. Station Hôtel de Ville on Ligne 1 (La Defense/Chateau de Vincennes) and Ligne 11 (Chatelet/Mairie des Lilas) - Access from near the junction of Rue de Renard and Rue de Rivoli. Station Cité on Ligne 4 (Porte d’Orleans (General Leclerc)/Porte de Clignancourt) - Access off the Boulevard du Palais (infront of Palais de Justice on the Ile de Cité). Station St. Paul on Ligne 1 (La Defense/Chateau de Vincennes) Access off the Rue de Rivoli. Station Rambuteau on Ligne 11 (Chatelet/Mairie des Lilas) - Access from near the junction of Rue de Renard and Rue Rambuteau. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 80 Station Pt. Marie on Ligne 7 (Villejuif - Louis Aragon / Mairie d’Ivry/La Courneuve - 8 mai 1945) - Access from Quai de l’Hotel de Ville Station Sully Morland on Ligne 7 (Villejuif - Louis Aragon / Mairie d’Ivry/La Courneuve - 8 mai 1945) - Access near the junction of Boulevard de Henri IV and Quai des Celestins. by bus Unlike the metro, buses can be a great way of moving around and seeing the city’s landscape, although you risk being caught in traffic. The most useful lines are 70, 72 and 74, which stop at the Hôtel de Ville, and lines 75 and 76, which run through Rue de Rivoli. The neighbouring Châtelet and Bastille stations are also served by the Noctilian (night bus), running from half past midninght to 5.30 am. Lines 33, 34 and 132 run between them with no intermediate stops, but there are many others arriving and leaving from both to several destinations around town. gEt around Walk, walk and walk! This arrondissement is compact enough to be explored on foot and that’s probably just what you’ll want to do anyway. Otherwise, the metro may be not be too useful for covering short distances, but you may still want to use the bus line 76 for the Châtelet-Bastille itinerary or line 67 for Châtelet - Île St. Louis, especially if you have a card for multiple trips or a carte orange. The RATP network has bicycles (vélos) for rent next to the Bastille station: ■■ Maison Roue Libre, 37, bd Bourdon. landmarks ■■ Notre-Dame de Paris, Ile de la Cité 6, Place du Parvis Notre Dame F-75004 Paris (Metro: St Michel). The early Gothic Cathédrale de Notre Dame (Our Lady) has a 12th century design but wasn’t completed until the 14th. Still it is a good example of the development of the style, though the west or main portal is a bit unusual in its rigidity. Remember that this is an active church, there may even be a mass going on. MeanCreated for michael arrington Paris, France 81 while anybody who’s interested in history should check out the crypt, in which you can observe the foundation stones for buildings on the island going back to Roman times. ■■ Hôtel de Ville, Place de la Hôtel de Ville (Metro: Hôtel de Ville). Many feel that this, Paris’ city hall, is one of the loveliest buildings in town. You might not get that from the front view, but try watching the light change on its roofs and towers during sunset from one of the cafés on the Ile de St. Louis, the Lutece for instance. Alternatively, go to the top floor of the Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville (BHV) department store opposite, on rue de Rivoli and walk up a flight of stairs to the roof terrace (terrasse), from which there is a dramatic view of both the roof of the Hôtel de Ville and the immediate surroundings and river. The present Hôtel de Ville replaced the 16th century original which was burned down during the Commune in 1871. A pastiche of its predecessor, but on a far larger scale, it was built by the the architects Ballu and Deperthes, chosen after a competition, and was mostly completed by 1882. The building is lavishly, and some would say heavy-handedly, decorated both inside and out, and finished in an arrestingly white stone, similar to that used for the even more eye-catching Sacre-Coeur basilica. The statue on the garden wall on the south side is of Etienne Marcel, the most famous holder of the post of ‘prevôt des marchands’ (provost of merchants) which predated the office of mayor. Marcel came to a sticky end, lynched in 1358 by an angry mob after trying to assert the city’s powers a little too energetically. The current mayor, Bertrand Delanoë, a socialist and the city’s first openly gay leader, shares some of Marcel’s ambition and almost shared his fate. He was stabbed in the building in 2002 during the first all-night, city-wide Sleepless Night (Nuit Blanche) festival when the long inaccessible building’s doors were thrown open to the public. But Delanoe recovered and has not lost his zeal for access, later converting the mayor’ sumptuous private apartments into a creche for the children of municipal workers. The Hôtel de Ville was for many years the private fiefdom of Jacques Chirac, now France’s president, and was the site of a scandal centering on both illegal jobs given to Chirac’s party members and an immense entertainment budget. General de Gaulle greeted the crowds from a front window in 1944 when Paris was lib- Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 82 erated from the Germans and Robespierre was shot in the jaw and arrested in the original building in 1794. Admirers of Hôtel de Ville’s architecture will want to know that Ballu also built the Church of La Trinité in the 9th arrondissement and the belfry of the town hall of the 1st arrondissement, opposite the Louvre’s east facade. ■■ Tour St Jacques A gothic church tower in a square 150 meters to the west of the Hôtel de Ville was restored by Ballu, is all that remains of Eglise Saint-Jacques-de-la-Boucherie, which was the meeting place in Paris for Pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compestela, as such it is included on the UNESCO World Heritage List as part of the Routes of Santiago de Compostela in France. It is currently under restoration. ■■ la Bastille (Metro: Bastille). Enter Bastille station through any entrance or on any train and then make your way to the Bobigny/Pablo Picasso bound platform. All that’s left of the fortress whose front steps used to lead up from place de la Bastille are some foundation stones which you can see while waiting for a north bound train on this metro platform. There are maps and explanations showing where the fortress used to be relative the place and surroundings (basically the location of the old front steps are now occupied by Café des Phares). ■■ Le Mémorial de la Shoah, 17 rue Geoffroy l’Asnier. Opened in January 2005, this Holocaust Memorial comprises a major documentation centre and a wall bearing 76,000 names of Jews deported from France to the Nazi camps between 19421944. Includes an archive of a million artifacts, including 55,000 photographs. Excursions are run from the Memorial to French internment camp sites such as Drancy. musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Centre Georges Pompidou, Place George Pompidou (Metro: Rambuteau). Those who are unfamiliar with conceptual art sometimes don’t know quite what to expect, or how to approach it. Such travelers should rest assured that the curators at the Pompidou Centre have assembled a marvelous introduction consisting of mostly approachable works which delight, amuse, and entertain. The art is far from the only reason for a visit, as the building also contains a vast public Created for michael arrington Paris, France 83 library and a fine restaurant (run by the Costes brothers) on the roof. In fact the place is literally surrounded by some of the nicest sidewalk cafés in the city, in it’s superb location between the car-free above ground part of Forum Les Halles and the Marais art district. ■■ Maison de Victor Hugo, 6 Place des Vosges (Metro: Saint-Paul or Bastille, Bus 20,29,65,69,96). The house in which the famous French novelist Victor Hugo once lived. ■■ Hotel de Sully, 62 rue Saint-Antoine (Metro: Saint-Paul or Bastille, Bus 69, 76, 96). Built in 1625, the Hotel de Sully is an interesting house with some sculptures in a beautiful courtyard. The house features special exhibitions so check listings when in Paris. do Most of the things to do in the 4th are covered in other sections of this guide, with the main thing to do being to explore. Of particular interest is the Île Saint Louis (complete with having an ice-cream or sorbet from Berthillon), the Hôtels Particuliars, and the Pletzle particularly rue des Rosiers and the area around Place du Marché Sainte-Catherine. buy Over the last decade, the rue des Francs-Bourgeois has become a shopping destination for clothes and accessories. Go during the July or January soldes and pick up some Anne-Fontaine outfits, Camper shoes, or trendy mens clothing at Melchoir at bargain basement prices. ■■ Marché aux Fleurs et Marché aux Oiseaux, Place Louis Lepine (Metro: Cité, Saint Michele or Châtelet). On the north side of the Ile de la Cité, the main island at the center of Paris you’ll find a burgeoning daily flower market, where you can buy just about any type of flower, and oddly enough a range of exotic tropical birds. ■■ Opéra BD, 2 rue des Tournelles (Metro: Bastille). Comics (Bandes Dessinées) are a serious art form in France and even regular corporate bookstores have a good selection, but it’s much better to look for them where they are really appreciated, in one of Paris’ many private BD dealers. This one is Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 84 friendly, well stocked, and keeps late hours so pay them a visit if you would like to pick up a copy of one of the many volumes of Lone Wolf and Cub in French. ■■ Mariage Frères, 30 & 35 rue de Bourg-Tibourg (Métro: Hotel de Ville). If you love tea, you’ll love this old salon de the in the Marais. ■■ B.H.V., 52 rue de Rivoli (Metro Hôtel de Ville). Is a general store with most of everything : clothes, perfumes, furniture, you name it --it’s especially famous for its basement section, dedicated to handywork & DIY --think of it as a small Home Depot in a basement... though with French hardware and house and garden accessories that look distinctive in other settings. Eat If you are looking for a snack or a quick lunch you could do a lot worse than any one of the kosher falafel stands along the Rue des Rosiers near Place des Vosges. If you are on the island though, a closer choice is just to hop across the little pedestrian bridge to the Ile de St. Louis for lunch at any one of the many charming cafés. For dinner or a sit-down lunch there are over a thousand restaurants in the 4th catering to all tastes - many more deserve to be listed than this or any other guide has space for. There are nice places, trendy or traditional throughout the district, but most of the really fancy bistros are clustered around the Northwest corner of Place de Bastille. You’ll really enjoy walking around and checking out the menus, especially during the week when only the most exclusive places require a reservation. That said, here are some ideas: ■■ Le Loir dans la Théière, 3, rue des Rosiers (Metro: Saint Paul). A highly recommended and quaint little teashop, well worth Created for michael arrington Paris, France 85 a visit especially for brunch, which at 15.50 Euro is a great value for the quantity, quality, and ambiance. ■■ La Perla, 26 rue François Miron (Metro: Hôtel de Ville). There is good Mexican food to be had within a stone’s throw of the Ile de St. Louis. They mix a decent margarita too! ■■ l’Excuse, 14, rue Charles-V (Metro: Sully-Morland). ■■ Ciao, 7, rue Simon-Lefranc (Metro: Rambuteau). ■■ La Victoire Suprême du Coeur, 27-31 rue du Bourg Tibourg (Métro: Saint-Paul or Hôtel de Ville). At this fully vegetarian restaurant you can get a delicious and hearty fake meat and two veg meal in a pleasant though disturbingly cultlike atmosphere. 12 to 20€. ■■ Chez Marianne, 2, Rue des Hospitalières-Saint Gervais (Metro: Saint-Paul). Found at the corner of rue des HospitalièresSaint Gervais, and the rue Rosiers, Chez Marianne --like the many falafel stands in the Pletzle-- serves excellent sandwiches out of a walk up window, but unlike some of the others also has an attractive dining room and a truly lovely terrace where you can enjoy a full range of Jewish/middle-eastern dishes. ■■ Pitchi Poï, 9 place du Marché Sainte Catherine (Metro: Saint Paul). Essentially yiddische cuisine with a nice choice of vodkas the terrace is great when the weather is fine the whole place du Marché Sainte Catherine is covered with restaurants’ tables in summer. ■■ Brasserie Bofinger, 3 rue de la Bastille. A beautiful, historical décor in Art Nouveau style (see the ceiling upstairs) good Alsatian cuisine : choucroute, kuglopf, etc. plus good classic cuisine de brasserie. ■■ Un Piano sur le Trottoir, 7 rue des Francs Bourgeois. The restaurant is at the end of a long passage. At the front is just a small room with an upright piano and a couple of post-Impressionist paintings. The decor is bizarre: stone and bright purple drywall two nice chandeliers, and a discoball a multi- Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 86 colored curtain with spotlights pointed at it. For lunch it is a traditional place with solid French cooking. Euros 25-35. ■■ Amorino, 47 rue Saint Louis en L’Ile. The oldest of the many boutiques operated by this this gelato (italian ice cream) maker. ■■ Pain Vin Fromages, 3 rue Geoffrey l’Angevin (Métro Rambuteau). It’s all about cheese, with a selection of Swiss dishes, and others. drink In the 4th it’s really hard to say whether a given place is somewhere to Eat eat or somewhere to Drink. Most of the places on this list serve dinner, and some serve lunch as well. ■■ The Auld Alliance Scottish Pub, 80 rue Francois Miron (Metro St Paul). Open daily 11AM-2AM. Friendly staff and customers help create a welcoming atmosphere at the original Scottish pub in Paris. Excellent food is served everyday including a hearty brunch. A wide selection of whiskey is on offer. Sporting events are shown on the large television screens and regular darts and pool competitions take place. ■■ Café des Phares, 7 place de la Bastille (Métro: Bastille). Open every day from 7AM-3AM. Since 1992 this otherwise very attractive but fairly standard Parisien café has been host to a lively discussion of contemporary philosophy and attendant issues every Sunday night. There’s a political discussion too, on the first Thursday of each month. ■■ Café Lutèce, 33 quai de Bourbon (Metro: Pont-Marie). This little bistro would be totally unremarkable if it weren’t for the location, on the northern bank of Ile Saint-Louis, where you can watch the colors of the sunset light play over the towers of the Hôtel de Ville as you enjoy a glass or three of beer or house wine, or maybe a cognac. ■■ Le Lizard Lounge, 18 rue du Bourg-Tibourg (Metro: Hôtel-deVille). ■■ Le Petit Fer A Cheval, 30 rue Vieille-du Temple (Metro: SaintPaul). ■■ La Chaise au Plafond, 10, rue du Trésor (Metro: Saint-Paul). The Chaise is one of those truely warm and welcoming cafés. The proprietor usually makes an effort to spend at least a Created for michael arrington Paris, France 87 couple of minutes at each table, and somehow manages to remember visitors even years later. ■■ Les Etages, 35, rue Vieille du Temple (Metro: Saint-Paul). ■■ Stolly’s, 7 , rue Cloche-Perce (Metro: Saint-Paul). slEEP There are tons of hotels, hostels and guest houses in the 4th. Even still you should book ahead if possible as there is also tons of demand. budgEt ■■ MIJE, 6, rue de Fourcy, 12 rue des Barres, and 11 rue du Fauconnier (Metro: St. Paul). Consistently given the highest possible ratings this organization actually runs three hostels in the Marais. The only possible drawback is that they have an afternoon lockout for cleaning. The MIJE Maubuisson on rue des Barres gets the nod of the three for being in an historic Tudor-style building. Dorm-room beds start at 27€ at all three places. Single rooms are 42€. ■■ Hôtel Rivoli, 44 rue Rivoli (Metro: Hotel de Ville). In the heart of the city with cheap doubles, starting from 30€. ■■ Grand Hôtel du Loiret, 8, rue des Mauvais Garçons (Metro: Hôtel-de-Ville). A good value for the price and location. The basic rooms start at 45€, or 60€ with a shower. ■■ Grand Hôtel Jeanne-d’Arc, 3, rue de Jarente (Metro: SaintPaul). In the calmer part of the Marais, not far from Place de Bastille and Place des Vosges, this little hotel offers a good value, so you’ll need to book ahead, especially for the 57€ basic room. mid-rangE ■■ Hôtel du Septième Art, 20 rue Saint-Paul (Metro: Saint-Paul). A little place done up in all black and white in homage to the cinema, the 7th art offers a good value on comfortable rooms, and polite, quality service. Single rooms start at 75€. ■■ Hôspitel, 1, Place du Parvis Notre Dame-Galerie B2, 6e étage (Metro: Cité). You can’t beat the location of this no-star but midrange offering on the Ile de la Cité located on the 6th floor of the Hospital Hôtel-Dieu a functioning Hospital which is also classified as an official historical monument, HôspiParis, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 88 tel offers quite a bit of service and comfort for your 88.50€ (singles) or 99.50€ (double). ■■ Hôtel Bastille Speria, 1 rue de la Bastille (Metro: Bastille). This lovely little three star is at the far end of the 4th bumped right up against Place de Bastille. The place is inviting and the rooms are quite comfy and air conditioned. The location is good especially if you are interested in fine dining, as the place is surrounded by some of the better bistros on the right bank. Rooms start at 95 Euro for a single. ■■ Hotel Caron de Beaumarchais, 12, rue Vieille-du-Temple (Metro: Saint-Paul or Hôtel-de-Ville). Starting at 137€ for a single room ■■ Hôtel de Lutece, 65, rue Saint-Louis-en-l’Ile (Metro: PontMarie). All of the rooms go for 158€ ■■ Jardins de Paris Marais-Bastille, 14, rue Neuve-Saint-Pierre (Metro: Bastille). Singles starting at 120€, doubles for 135€. ■■ Hôtel de la Place des Vosges, 12 rue de Birague (Metro: Bastille or Saint-Paul). The rooms are tiny, as is the staircase, but they are also pristine, some of the rooms have been renovated recently with shiny new marble bathrooms. The staff also gets high marks for professionalism and for general helpfulness. Prices range from 101-140€. ■■ Hôtel de Nice, 42bis, rue de Rivoli (Metro: Hôtel de Ville). Just two blocks from the Ile de St. Louis, the Hôtel de Nice offers tiny but lovely rooms. Ask for one with a balcony, some of which have a view of Notre Dame. The furniture is handpainted with a floral theme which continues throughout the room. The area can be a little loud though, so if you want peace and quiet look elsewhere. Singles start at 60€. contact ■■ Bibliothèque Publique d’Information. This library in Centre Pomidou offers Internet for free (40 minutes). It’s very popular so expect a queue for getting in and at least one hour waiting time to use the computers. The entrance to the museum isn’t the same as the one to the rest of Centre Pomidou but located around the back of the building. Paris/4ème arrondissement Paris Created for michael arrington Paris, France 89 Le_Marais Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 90 paris/5th arrondissement The 5th Arrondissement of Paris is one of the best known of the city’s central districts, located on the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) of the river Seine. Also commonly known as the “Latin Quarter” (le quartier Latin) - from the fact that the first great Parisian university, the Sorbonne, was founded (and can be still be found) here (Latin being the language the medieval period students used once to speak....), the 5th was also the core of ancient Gallo-Roman Paris, as revealed in a number of otherwise rare archaeological remains that can be seen within the district. The area still has a significant student presence, with several universities and schools of higher education being located in the area. However, due to gentrification, most student and faculty have been forced to more affordable areas such as the 13th. ’’by métro’’ Line 7 connects the 5th with the 1st, 4th, and 13th, stopping at Jussieu, Monge and Censier/Daubenton. Line 10 cuts east-west across the northern and most touristed part of the arrondissement stopping at Cluny/la Sorbonne, Maubert/ Mutualité, Cardinal Lemoine, and Jussieu with terminus just east of the 5th’s border with the 13th at Gare d’Austerlitz. The RER-B coming all the way from Airport Charles de Gaulle stops at St. Michel and Luxembourg. ’’by bus’’ 27, 87, 86, 24, 21, 47, 87, 84 Many tourists rely on the subway system to get around. However, while you are there to visit, why not see the city from the bus? Unlike other big cities, the buses in Paris are a first class ride for the same price. They are very clean and usually arrive every 7-10 minutes. The system is very easy to understand (there are big maps and the lines are color coded) and you can ask anyone Created for michael arrington Paris, France 91 on the bus to tell you where you should stop. Buses typically go faster than other cars too because they benefit from special bus lanes on all main avenues and boulevards throughout the city. landmarks ■■ Panthéon, Place du Panthéon (‘Métro Cardinal Lemoine). Originally conceived by Louis XV as a grand neo-Classical church honoring St. Geneviève, the patron saint of Paris. After the Revolution, the building was converted into a mausoleum for the great philosophers, military, artists, scientists and heroes of the French Republic. Occupants of the crypt include Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Zola, the Curies and, most recently, Alexandre Dumas (reinterred here in 2002). The view from the dome (206 steps) is marvelous, check tour departure time at the information desk. A fascinating reconstruction of Foucault’s Pendulum also hangs within the Panthéon. ■■ Jardin des Plantes. The Paris Botanical Garden, founded as the royal medicinal garden in 1626 by King Louis XIII’s doctor, contains over 10,000 species. The grounds also include a small zoo known as La Ménagerie and the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, which includes the recently renovated Grande Galerie de l’Evolution. ■■ Arenes de Lutece, 47 rue Monge et rue de Navarre (Métro: Place Monge, Jussieu, Cardinal Lemoine). An ancient Roman theater, the only surviving above-ground ruins of the Gallo-Roman era in Paris (ancient Lutetia, French Lutece) apart the nearby Thermes de Cluny. The theater could hold approximately 15,000 spectators and measures some 132 m x 100 m. Built sometime in the 2nd century AD, the location of the actor’s dressing room, the platform of the stage and lapidary remains can still be seen. The remains were rediscovered in 1869, when new streets were being built - an excavation was subsequently ordered in 1883. The theater has been preserved as a quiet archaeological park removed from the bustle of Parisian streets musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Musée du Moyen Age, 6 place Paul Painlevé (Métro Cluny). Housed in a 15th century abbey, alongside 1st century GalloRoman baths, the museum has an extensive collection of Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 92 medieval art and artifacts. Highlights include the medieval “Lady and the Unicorn” tapestries, a papal golden rose and the original heads from the facade of Notre Dame. ■■ Musée de l’Institut du Monde Arabe, 1 rue des Fossés-St Bernard. The building has a freely accessible rooftop which allows for a beautiful bird’s-eye view of the northern half of Paris. ■■ Musée Curie, 11 rue Pierre et Marie Curie (Métro: Cardinal Lemoine (ligne 10), Place Monge (ligne 7), RER-B: Luxembourg). This charming scientific museum preserves the offices and laboratories of Pierre and Marie Curie, pioneers in the discovery of radioactivity, their instruments, equipment and furniture arranged as it was during their critically important research. Guided tours in English available. rEligious buildings ■■ Eglise Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre (Métro: Cluny-Sorbonne / SaintMichel). ■■ Eglise Saint-Etienne-du-Mont, pl Ste Geneviève. St. Geneviève was responsible for saving Paris from the Huns in 451 and her shrine in the church has been a popular place of pilgrimage ever since. The church as it stands dates from between 1492 and 1626 and is a mix of Gothic and Renaissance architectural styles. A unique feature is the Renaissance rood screen, the sole survivor in the city. ■■ Eglise Saint Nicolas du Chardonnet, 23 rue des Bernardins. A controversial church occupied by the arch-traditionalist Society of Saint Pius X, who have illegally occupied the church since 1977. ■■ Grande Mosquée de Paris, 2 bis place du puits de l’Ermite (Grand Mosque of Paris). Founded in 1926, it was meant to show appreciation for Muslim help in fighting the Germans. The café serves excellent mint tea and North African food. buy The lower end of rue Mouffetard as it runs away from the Panthéon hosts an ongoing fruit and vegetable market, and is lined with food and wine shops of all kinds. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 93 ■■ La Fontaine aux Vins, 107 rue Mouffetard (Métro: Censier Daubenton). One of several wine shops along the lower part of the street, La Fontaine is a good example because the wines are of high quality, but barely more pricy than the ones you’ll find in the grocery store. They offer tastings outside on the street, and delivery if you buy a case. The prices start at around 4€ per bottle which you might note is around what you’ll pay for a glass in a bar. ■■ Gepetto & Vélos, 46 rue Daubenton (Métro: Censier Daubenton). OK, so if you are just staying for a day or two it makes no sense whatever to buy a bike, but if you are going to be around for a while having your own might just feel better than renting one from the RATP. If so, you could do a lot worse than Gepetto, where you’ll find a range of real bikes rather than the usual cheap MTB you’d see at a sporting goods store. The prices start at around €100 for a sturdy used 3 city bike. ■■ l’Epée de Bois, 12 rue de l’Epée de Bois (Métro: Pl. Monge). The name of the store and the street it’s on both translate to the “wooden sword”, and you find those here along with any number of wooden toys for children ages 1 to 10. They also have books and games. ■■ Shakespeare & Co, 37 rue de la Bûcherie. Probably one of the most eccentric bookstores you will ever visit, this must-see was established in 1951 by George Whitman: three rambling floors literally crammed with books, both new and (mainly) second-hand. The bedding shoved amongst the shelves is for the (largely American) ex-pats who doss down amongst the books at night. Eat A lot of travellers arriving in the 5th from across the river are lured into the restaurants and fast-food outlets between rue St Jacques and boulevard St Michel (in Rue de la Huchette, rue Saint-Séverin). Our advice: avoid them as they are overpriced tourist-traps. You’ll eat better a up the hill a bit. ■■ Le Petit Prince de Paris, 12, rue de Lanneau (close to Pantheon in the 5th Arrondissement). A notably Parisian restaurant experience, but with friendly and warm service. Tradition- Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 94 al French food (try the duck!) and deliciously complicated sauces. Relaxed and uncrowded, but reserve in the morning for a weekend night. Reasonable wine selection. ■■ Le Grenier de Notre Dame, 18 rue de la Bûcherie (Métro: St. Michel). A vegetarian restaurant with a great selection including a number of vegan items, the Grenier is, as the name suggests, just around the corner from the cathedral. The English-speaking staff is super friendly. ■■ Jardin des Pâtes, 4 rue Lacépède (Métro: Monge). The range of pasta dishes is just fantastic at this cute little restaurant tucked away near the Jardin des Plantes. Although some meat dishes are served there is a huge range of choice for vegetarians as well. ■■ La Tour d’Argent, 15-17 quai de la Tournelle (Métro: Cardinal Lemoine or St Paul). For fat wallets La Tour d’Argent is a must-see. The oldest restaurant in Paris, located along the Seine, is famous for its duck recipes. ■■ Ambiance De L’Inde, 12 Rue Thouin. Indian/Pakistani with many vegan dishes. ■■ Les cinq saveurs d’Anada, 72 rue du cardinal Lemoine. Macrobiotic and Vegitarian specialties, cooked mainly in the French tradition but with some fun additions from around the world. drink Café, 267 rue Saint Jaques (Métro: Luxembourg). This mostly anglophone joint presents jazz artists from around the globe on its tiny stage. There’s never a cover, and the atmosphere is always fantastic with the huge collection of postcards etc. on the stage wall, and the muical statue of liberty in the front. Please do buy a CD from the artist or toss a couple of Euro into the hat. ■■ Polly Magoo, 3, rue du Petit Pont (Métro: Saint Michel). This bar bears no relation, beyond the name, to the legendary, sleazy, and legendarily sleazy bar which was further south up the street at 11 rue Saint Jacques and was replaced by a ‘boutique hotel’ in 2002. Jim Morrison was a regular at the original bar, but the owners of the new version would be unlikely to let anyone that shabby come in. The Gaudi-esque bar and blue mosaic storefront make this bar a must see as ■■ Universel Created for michael arrington Paris, France 95 well as a must sit for those who like their bars to come with a theme. ■■ The Fifth Bar, 62 rue Mouffetard (Métro: Place Monge). Named for the arrondissement, or maybe a measure of whiskey, this little hole-in-the-wall caters to a mixed anglophone expatriate crowd, with a mix of local students and (in tourist season) backpackers. Tuesdays and Thursdays are student nights with happy-hour prices all night with a student ID. Depending on season, American sports often play on the television. ■■ Le Vieux Chêne, 69 rue Mouffetard (Métro: Place Monge). Just down the way from the fifth on the left is another hole-inthe-wall, this one dating from the 18th century. It was named after its sign, a bas relief of an old oak tree (vieux chene), which was around 250 years when it was chiseled off early in 2005 by workman ‘restoring’ the facade of the building. The selection of beers etc. is good and the crowd is mostly students. Expect to pay around 4€ for a pint. There is a minuscule dance floor in the atmospheric and sweaty cellar below. On Tuesday nights, there is live music and the musicians take requests from the crowd - playing classic French and American songs. ■■ Le Piano Vache, 8, Rue Laplace (Métro: Maubert/Mutualité). A legendary part of student life in the real Latin quarter this dark barroom has walls covered with posters and photos of bands, but also a wall covered with passport-type photos of regulars past and present. At night things get going with DJs, bands of all styles, and on Tuesday nights, a pop-rock jam session. ■■ The Rhubarb, 18, Rue Laplace (Métro: Maubert/Mutualité). Friendly cocktail bar that also has a decent selection of beers on tap and one of the best pints of Guinness in town! Friendly bartenders and a mixed french/expat/tourist 20-30’s crowd make this a great place to spend the evening. Good Happy Hour prices as well. ■■ The Bombardier, Place du Panthéon (Métro: Maubert/Mutualité). Great pub in a prime location right in front of beautiful St-Etienne-du-Mont church and the Panthéon. One of the few pubs in Paris where you can get cask ales, and they also make cocktails. Food served at lunchtime (good pub food, ie. Bangers&mash, English breakfasts, fish&chips, etc.). Also Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 96 a great place to watch sporting events like English Premier League and the Six-Nations tournament as the pub draws a mixed crowd of French and English regulars with expats and tourists thrown into the mix. budgEt ■■ Young and Happy Hostel, 80 Rue Mouffetard (Métro: Place Monge). A hit with young travellers, the young and happy exists to save you money. The rooms are just as basic as can be, but clean unlike the average one-star. The location is hard to beat if you are looking for a nice evening out. The risk though is that if you party too much you won’t see much else of Paris. Oh, English is the lingua-franca here. ■■ Hôtel du Commerce, 14, rue de la Montagne-Sainte-Geneviève (Métro: Maubert-Mutualité). The rooms are tiny, but cheap, especially for the location, just a stone’s throw from Notre Dame. The hotel provides a shared kitchen area if you would like to save even more money by cooking some of the time, there are markets both nearby and over the hill on rue Mouffetard, so this is a good idea for budget travellers. Although they do have exactly one (pricier) room equipped with a shower, the rest of the rooms share a brand-new shower facility near the reception. ■■ Hôtel Esmerelda, 4 rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre (Métro: SaintMichel). An excellent example of what happens when a “find” hotel is discovered by the travel guides, the Esmerelda has lost none of it’s charm but the prices have crept up into nearly the two-star range, and you’ll have to book ahead by at least a couple of months in the high season or around the winter holidays. On the plus side the place really does deserve the attention (and solid bookings), as it really is super charming, the welcome couldn’t possibly be better and it’s still on the cheap side. Try not to trip over the ample knick-knacks in your room, which will likely be named after a French singing star. ■■ Port-Royal-Hôtel, 8 Boulevard de Port-Royal (Métro: Les Gobelins). Great hotel right next to the Rue Mouffetard and its market. Whimsical rooms decorated in rich floral patterns. ■■ My own studio, ruedes trois portes (Métro: Maubet Mutualite). Charming furnished studio by Notre Dame and Bd St Created for michael arrington Paris, France 97 Germain, 18m2, with bathroom, toilet, kitchen corner, cable TV, internet access, free phone to ground lines, very quiet street mid-rangE ■■ Hôtel Familia, 11 Rue des Ecoles (Métro: Maubert-Mutualité or Cardinal-Lemoine). As with the Minerve (below), each of the rooms in this family run two-star is decorated with a unique medievalist mural by the artist Gérald Pritchard. This combined with the antique furniture gives the place some real character. If you are lucky enough to get a room with a balcony (ask!) you can enjoy your breakfast overlooking the courtyard (or the street). ■■ Hôtel Minerve, 13 Rue des Ecoles (Métro: Maubert-Mutualité or Cardinal-Lemoine). While not quite the bargain it was a couple of years ago when it was (erroneously) classified as a two-star, the properly three-star Minerve is a family run operation (the same family as the Familia next door. It’s worth staying here just to enjoy the antique-stuffed lobby and the individual murals which adorn each of the rooms. The rooms are all air-conditioned, and the bathtubs (if your room has one) are huge. Watch your elbows in the tiny elevator though! ■■ Hôtel de l’Esperance, 15 rue Pascal (Métro: Place Monge or Censier-Daubenton). This quirky little little family run hotel just off of Place Contrescarp and the rue Mouffetard has some really good value rooms, especially up on the top floor. The young staff gets high ratings, as does the proprietress (even with her very limited English), though it’s sometimes best to avoid the proprietor depending on mood. ■■ Hôtel du Levant, 18, rue de la Harpe (Métro: Saint-Michel). Scoring consisent high marks for quality and spaciousness the du Levant is the closest to Place St. Michel of any of our listings here. Apparently the rooms are mostly of a standard Parisène size (small) but there are a couple of larger ones as well, so it’s better to ask. ■■ Maitre Albert B&B, rue Maitre Albert (Métro: Maubert Mutualité or RER St Michel). This lovely bed & breakfast, facing a floral courtyard, is at the second floor of a grand old building located in the historical part of Paris. At the end of Maître Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 98 Albert’s street are the river, the island and the glory of Notre Dame! Prices range from 95 € per night for two people including breakfast. contact Paris/5ème arrondissement 5th arrondissement Created for michael arrington Paris, France 99 paris/6th arrondissement As with Paris itself, the 6th Arrondissement is hard to write about without using superlatives. There’s a bit of everything here, from the busy sidewalks of Paris’ main art Gallery scene to the expansive green spaces and under-tree cafés of the Jardin du Luxembourg, from the huddle of kebab joints around Place St. Michel to some of the finest restaurants in the world, the 6th has it all. Though, if you stay in the 6th perhaps you do risk not seeing much else of Paris. ’’by métro’’ Line 4 runs north-south through the 6th, connecting with the 18th, 9th, 2nd, 1st, and 14th. If you’re arriving from central France or the Loire valley you’ll probably connect at Gare Montparnasse. landmarks ■■ Eglise Saint-Germain-des-Prés, 3 place St-Germain-des-Prés (Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés). The oldest church in Paris, founded in the year 542 by King Childebert. The church as it exists today dates mainly from the 11th century, the period in which it became the center of a powerful Benedictine abbey. The Revolution witnessed the suppression of the abbey in 1794, when most of the monastic buildings were put to the torch. Earlier, 318 priests had been hacked to death nearby by a mob on 3 September 1792. The church underwent significant restoration in the 19th century, ensuring the preservation of the building, which by that date represented a fascinating mix of styles: 6th century marble columns placed alongside Gothic vaults and supported by Romanesque arches. Famous burials within the church include René Descartes (philosopher), Nicolas Boileau (poet) and King John Casimir of Poland, who later became abbot of the church’s monastery in 1669. ■■ Palais du Luxembourg, 15 rue de Vaugirard (Métro Odéon or Mabillon). Visitable only by reservation and then only one Saturday every month. A richly decorated palace built for MaParis, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 100 rie de Medici in the early 17th century, currently the French Senate. For those interested in seeing a Parisian monument normally unavailable to the public, or for those interested in the inner workings of the French Government. musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Musée national Eugène Delacroix, 6 rue de Fürstenberg (Métro: St-Germain-des-Prés or Mabillon). Home and studio of the great Romantic painter from 1857 until his death in 1863, features works by the artist and exhibitions of his contemporaries’ work buy ■■ Citypharm, 26 Rue de Four (Metro: St. Germain des Près). Cosmetic products of famous brands like “Vichy” and “La Roche” can be bought cheaper here. ■■ Cacao et Chocolat, 29, rue de Buci (Métro: Mabillon or Saint Germain des Près). An upscale chocolate boutique, the C&C also offers yummy hot chocolate to go. Another possibly more interesting way to warm up is the square of bitter 100% cacao with a glass of cognac. Eat 159 blvd. de Monparnasse (Métro: (RER-B) Port Royal). Good and big Italian food in this family-style restaurant. ■■ Yugaraj, 14 Rue Dauphine (Metro: Pont-Neuf or Odeon). A mostly northern Indian carte with lots of Vegetarian options. It seems a popular restaurant so be sure to book in advance if you are going in a large group. ■■ La Bastide Odeon, 7 Rue Corneille. ■■ l’Arbuci, 25, rue de Buci. A nice bistro with consistently favorable reviews and a jazz club downstairs. ■■ Les Bouquinistes, 53 quai des Grands-Augustins. A favorite among the many art dealers in the neighborhood, and a re■■ Padova, Created for michael arrington Paris, France 101 spected platform for up-and-coming chef Magdala de Beaulieu-Caussimon. ■■ Brasserie Lipp, 151, Bld. Saint-Germain. ■■ Cour de Rohan, 59, Rue Saint André des Arts (Métro: SaintMichel). It would be an ordinary tea-room if the Cour de Rohan itself weren’t such a magical little spot. ■■ La Petite Cour, 10, Rue Mabillon. ■■ Le Petit Zinc, 11 rue St-Benoît. ■■ Polidor, 41, rue Monsieur Le Prince. Since 1845, but don’t let that fool you, the carte is quite up-to-date. Vegetarians can assemble a fine pasta-centered meal à la carte. ■■ Le Timbre, 3 rue Sainte Beuve. It’s pretty much a two-person operation: chef Christopher Wright and a waitress. There is no carte, so be prepared to have the menu. Reviewers who accept this prospect are universally unreserved in their praise. ■■ Le Trait D’Union, 122, Rue de Rennes. A local institution, generally good brasserie food, not terribly exiting but well executed. ■■ Ze Kitchen Gallery, 4 rue des Grands-Augustins (Métro: SaintMichel). A generally well-regarded fusion restaurant with another Guy Savoy trained chef. You should reserve if at all possible. ■■ Guen Maï, 6 Rue Cardinale. This macrobiotic vegitarian restaurant has a sheltered, quiet location and generally receives glowing reviews. ■■ Wokbar, 12bis, rue Vavin. Good quality, Healthy, Fast Food based on Italian and Asian dishes. The stretch of rue Vavin between rue Notre Dame and rue d’Assas (right before Jardin du Luxembourg) is filled with cheap eats that students frequent, such as a bakery with a dirt-cheap formule and a Wokbar. You can also find an outlet from the famous Amorino gelato chain here. caFés The 6th has two of Paris’ most famous cafés, side by side - both are more expensive than your average café (you’re paying for the history and the location, not for extraordinary fare or service....): Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 102 ■■ Café de Flore, 172 boulevard Saint Germain (Métro: St-Germain-de-Prés). This café is famous as the favored coffee and smoking venue for the Surrealists during the 1920s and ‘30s, the Existentialists in the 1940s and ‘50s, and still attracts an artistic / literati crowd.... Also does breakfasts and light meals. ■■ Les Deux Magots, 6 place Saint Germain de Prés (métro St Germain-des-Prés). Another famous literary café, right next door to its great rival Café de Flore. Sartre and Hemingway were regular patrons here and the café confirms its literary connections with an annual, somewhat prestigious book prize. bars ■■ 10 Bar International, 10, rue de l’Odéon (Métro: Odeon). If you’re looking to be lured into a classic Parisian hole-in-thewall by the sound of accordion music, you should spend a few hours of your evening here. An artsy den with requisite cigarette fog and nudie collage, their sangria is just right. mid-rangE ■■ Le Clos Medicis, 56 rue Monsieur-Le-Prince (Métro: Odéon or Luxembourg). This charming little hotel is only steps from the Jardin du Luxembourg and has air-conditioning in every room, and a very cozy - and usually empty - bar in the lobby in which to wind down after a day of exploring, if you and your travelling companions need some quiet time. The helpful staff speaks English readily (some even as a first language), and the usual continental breakfast is served in the lovely (but tiny) courtyard every morning from 7am - 11am. ■■ Hôtel Trianon Rive Gauche, 1 bis et 3 rue de Vaugirard (Métro: Odeon, Cluny La Sorbonne, or RER-B: Luxembourg). Located conveniently on the border between the 6th and the Latin Quarter in the 5th sPlurgE ■■ Hotel Les Rives De Notre Dame, 15 Quai Saint Michel. ■■ l’Hôtel, Rue des Beaux-Arts. This hotel is beautiful inside, with baroque and modern rooms. There is a hamam style Created for michael arrington Paris, France 103 pool and sauna in the basement which can be reserved for clients of the hotel, and the restaurant is good too. Oscar Wilde lived and died here. ■■ Victoria Palace Hotel, 6, Rue Blaise Desgoffe (Metro: Saint Placide or Montparnasse). An elegant hotel which has been a landmark on the Left Bank since 1913. The 62 rooms and suites combine lavish Louis XVI style and modern facilities. No restaurant but room service and buffet breakfast available. contact Paris/6ème arrondissement Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 104 paris/7th arrondissement Paris/7th arrondissement is a region in Paris. Perhaps the most expensive area to live in Paris, the Eiffel Tower, one of the most famous tourist sites in the world, is located here. by métro/rEr Line 6 serves stations Bir-Hakeim (Eiffel Tower), Sevres-Babylon (Le Bon Marche). Line 8 serves stations Invalides (Les Invalides), Varenne (Les Invalides, Musee de Rodin), Ecole-Militaire (Eiffel Tower), Latour Maubourg(Hotel des Invalides). Line 10 serves station Sevres-Babylon(Le Bon Marche). Line 13 serves stations Invalides(Les Invalides). RER-C serves stations Invalides (Les Invalides), Champ de MarsTour Eiffel (Eiffel Tower), Musee D’Orsay (Musee D’Orsay). by boat ■■ Batobus , the hop on hop off service along the tourist sites on the Seine has stops at Tour Eiffel and the Musee d’Orsay. landmarkEs ■■ La Tour Eiffel (Métro: Bir-Hakeim or Ecole Militiare, RER-C Champ de Mars-TourEiffel). The symbol of Paris and one of the most famous landmarks in the world. Built by Gustave Eiffel in 1887-1889, the tower was almost torn down in 1909 and only saved due to its use as a telegraphy antenna. Note that the queues can be very long. Entry to the Eiffel Tower is on a “first come, first served” basis the tower does not offer advance tickets or accept reservations. The North, West and East pillars have elevators that go to the first and second floors the South pillar has stairs that can be climbed to the second floor. To reach the top floor, an additional elevator Created for michael arrington Paris, France 105 ride is required, and the wait for this can be very long as well. Taking the Métro as far as Ecole Militiare and then strolling up the Champ de Mars is a lovely way to arrive at the tower. ■■ l’Assemblée Nationale, 33 quai d’Orsay. Guided tours conducted all day, ID required. Formerely the Palais Bourbon, this building has housed the National Assembly, the French parliament’s lower house, since 1827. Some interesting architecture and the library features the painting l’Histoire de la civilization by Delacroix. Visitors may be interested in attending assembly debates. ■■ Hôtel des Invalides, Métro: Invalides. Founded in 1671 by Louis XIV as a hospital for 6000 war-wounded soldiers - this function explaining the name of the building - the goldendomed Hôtel des Invalides still functions as an infirmary and now also houses the Musée de l’Armée (see below). The church attached, l’Eglise du Dôme, houses the tomb of Napoleon. musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Musée d’Orsay, 1 rue de la Légion d’Honneur / rue de Lille (located on the Left Bank of the Seine, adjacent to the Pont Solferino and Pont Royal - opposite the Jardin des Tuileries in the 1st), Métro: Solferino, or Assemblée Nationale, RER C: Musée d’Orsay, bus 24, 63, 68, 69, 73, 83, 84, 94). Housed in a former Beaux-Arts railway station (completed in 1900 for the Exposition Universelle, later saved from demolition and converted to its present use), the rambling, open-plan museum is home to the works of the great artists of the 19th century (1848-1914) - Impressionists, post-Impressionists, and the rest - that were formerly displayed in the Louvre. This is perhaps the most spectacular collection of European impressionism in the world-- breath-taking rooms full of Manet, Renoir, Monet, Van Gogh, and many others. Impressionist represent the biggest draw, but there is much more to explore. ■■ Musée du quai Branly, 37 quai Branly (Métro: Iéna, Bir Hakeim). Opened in 2006, this is the newest and the most modern of Paris’ great museums, housing an outstanding collection of tribal art, with a particular emphasis on France’s former (and present) territories in Oceania and Africa. The museum is huge and you can easily spend half a day wan- Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 106 dering out, especially if you pause to explore the multimedia presentations. ■■ Musée Rodin, 77 Rue de Varenne (Métro: Varenne). A museum dedicated to the life and work of the great sculptor. The house contains an extensive collection, which is unusually well presented in a spacious building with big windows that are open in nice weather, which makes this museum double pleasant. othEr attractions ■■ Les Egouts de Paris (entrance opposite 93 quai d’Orsay near the Pont d’Alma, Métro: Alma-Marceau). For an interesting take on Paris, check out the underground sewers of Paris. do ■■ Vedettes de Paris, sightseeing cruises. Discover Paris by river on a chic boat. buy ■■ Le Bon Marché, 24, rue de Sèvres (Metro: Sèvres Babylone). The world’s first department store and one of the largest in modern Paris. budgEt ■■ Au Pied de Fouet, 45 rue de Babylone (Métro: Vaneau). It’s an appropriate name for a restaurant renowned for its unapologetically rude wait staff. Some people say that this is part of the charm of the place, perhaps that fits your definition of the word “charm” as well? Or perhaps not. One way or the other it’s cheap and the food is good. ■■ Chez Germaine, 30 rue Pierre Leroux. It’s all about homecooking, like your grandma would do if she were French, and trained in cooking. ■■ l’Oasis, 162, rue de Grenelle. An authentic take on Moroccan cuisine Created for michael arrington Paris, France 107 mid-rangE ■■ Le Clos des Gourmets, 16 avenue Rapp (Métro: Ecole Militaire / Alma Marceau, RER: Pont de l’Alma). A great little restaurant, elegant without being stuffy, popular with foreign visitors and American diplomatic staff (interesting conversations to be overheard....), fantastic French cuisine with a twist - try the avocado millefeuille with orange sauce for dessert (a surprisingly good combination) ■■ Chez l’Ami Jean, 27 Rue Malar. A sensational little restaurant featuring food and wine from the Basque region. sPlurgE ■■ Le Voltaire. Le Voltaire has always been tres chic and with customers like Helene Rochas and the Rothschild family, you know you are dining with the right set. Peaceful wood paneling and lighting that flatters, it is an intimate and romantic setting, where newcomers feel that they belong to an exclusive club. Be sure to dine upon the tenderloin in pepper sauce, magnifique! drink ■■ Le Cafe des Lettres- 53, rue de Verneuil, 01 42 22 52 17. Open noon until 11pm Mon to Sat. The charming cobblestoned courtyar makes this an ideal place to sit down and linger over a glass of wine. Excellent cocktail list. contact Paris/7. Arrondissement Paris/7ème arrondissement VIIe arrondissement Paris {{usablecity} Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 108 paris/8th arrondissement The 8th Arrondissement of Paris is home to the Champs Elysée, which ends up at the Arc de Triomphe. The executive branch of French government is also based here, as well as the embassies of certain nations such as the U.S. landmarks ■■ Avenue des Champs-Elysées, Avenue des Champs-Elysées (Métro: Charles de Gaulle Etoile, George V, Franklin-D. Roosevelt, Champs-Elysees Clemenceau). First created in 1667 by Louis XIV’s gardener, Andre Le Nôtre, in order to improve the view from the Tuileries garden. This elegant and broad avenue was extended towards the end of the 18th century, now running from the place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe. It is noted today as one of the most prestigious shopping boulevards of Paris ■■ l’Arc de Triomphe, place Charles de Gaulle (Métro Charles de Gaulle-Etoile). This iconic triumphal arch forms the focus of the main east-west road axis of Paris, running between the Louvre and the Grande Arche de la Défense in the west. The monument was commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 as a tribute to his victories as Emperor of France - it was finally completed in 1836, long after his death. 50 m (150 ft) high and 45 m wide, the Arc de Triomphe is decorated with battle scenes and martial sculptures that includes La Marseillaise by Rude. More recently, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier was placed beneath the arch in 1920, where an eternal flame burns in tribute to the French dead of both World Wars. The arch is surrounded by a large roundabout, aptly known as l’Etoile - ‘the star’ - with 12 thoroughfares leading off from it. Visitors can purchase a ticket to climb to the top of the arch, from where magnificent views spread out over western Paris. Admission to a small museum devoted to the history and meaning of the monument is included. The central island and the arch are accessed by an underground passage. Do not attempt to negotiate by foot the busy multi-lane road Created for michael arrington Paris, France 109 that rings the Arc de Triomphe, which many Parisian drivers seem to consider their own personal speedway. ■■ Place de la Concorde (situated to the west of the Jardin des Tuilleries). This is the largest square in Paris with fantastic vistas in every direction. It was in this square (then called la Place de la Revolution) that the French King Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette and many others were guillotined during the Terror. The large Egyptian obelisk in the centre of the Place de la Concorde was brought from the Temple of Luxor. ■■ La Madeleine, place de la Madeleine (Métro: Madeleine). One of the best-known and most beautiful churches in Paris, in the guise of a Corinthian order Classical temple. Construction started in 1764, although the church was not finally consecrated until 1845. The Madeleine has a lavish interior of marble and gold. musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Musée Jacquemart-André. Private collection of French, Italian, Dutch masterpieces in a typical XIXth century mansion. ■■ Jerome de Noirmont, 38, avenue Matignon. This museum represents some key contemporary and emering artists such as Jean Pierre Raynaud, Eva and Adele and Jeff Koons. ■■ le Grand Palais. An impressive museum wtih a classic interior. Eat Indien Qasim, 22 rue du Colisée (Métro: Franklin D. Roosevelt). Typical Pakistani & Indian Dishes ■■ Diep, 55 rue Pierre-Charron (Métro Franklin D. Roosevelt). Thai, Chinese, and Indonesian. Vegetarian friendly. ■■ Korova, 33, rue Marbeuf. The brainchild of celebrity chef Jean-Luc Delarue, Korova is the ‘in’ spot to dine in Paris. Designed by industry expert Christian Biecher, and with Frederick Herme in the kitchen, dining here is well worth the extravagance. ■■ Restaurant Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 110 drink ■■ Buddha Bar, 8 Rue Boissy d’ Anglais (Métro: Concorde). The Buddha Bar is famous in electronic lounge music circles for having commissioned a series of lounge and downtempo records which you can get at most larger record shops in France, as well as many abroad. Although you can also get them at the bar it’s probably not the best way, since they charge €45 per CD. The drinks are not so over-priced, and definitely worth it for the hip, sophisticated, and chill atmosphere. mid-rangE ■■ Hôtel Acacias Etoile, 11, rue des Acacias (Métro: Charles de Gaulle - Étoile). A clean, well run hotel in the side streets near the Place Charles de Gaulle. The staff is friendly, the rooms aren’t large, but they are immaculate. ■■ Phytéas’s houseboat B&B, Port des Champs-Elysées (Métro: Concorde). B&B in a houseboat a few meters from the Place de La Concorde and the Champs-Elysées. Truly a unique way to experience Paris. The houseboat is moored on the Seine in a very picturesque location between Pont Alexandre III, the most beautiful bridge in Paris, and Concorde Bridge. sPlurgE ■■ Hotel de Crillon, 10 Place de la Concorde (northern side), Champs-Élysées. Without doubt, one of the most prestigious, palatial and expensive hotels in Paris (if you have to ask how much, you can’t afford to stay here. ■■ Hotel Sofitel Le Faubourg-Paris, 15, rue Boissy d’Anglas. This hotel is located in 2 buildings dating from the 18th and 19th centuries. 154 rooms and 20 suites. ■■ Four Seasons Hotel George V, 31, avenue George V. Steps from the Champs-Elysées, with private terraces that command all Paris 17th-century tapestries, lovingly restored and a spirit that lives on in thoroughly reborn, highly advanced Created for michael arrington Paris, France 111 spaces, Four Seasons George V Paris redefines luxury service in the City of Light. ■■ Hyatt Regency Paris - Madeleine, 24 Boulevard Malesherbes. Boutique hotel size with personalized service. Has 2 good restaurants. contact Paris/8ème arrondissement Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 112 paris/9th arrondissement The 9th arrondissement of Paris is a diverse, “in between” section of the French capital. The Grands Boulevards area of shopping throughfares and flagship department stores (as well as the original Opera - hence the common name for the district) is to be found in the southern part of the arrondissement (shared with the 2nd and the 8th). By way of contrast, the fading red-light and cheap shopping district of Pigalle is located in the north of the 9th, closely adjoining Montmartre on the hill above in the 18th. In between the two, relatively-speaking, lies a traveller’s no-man’s-land / terra incognita - though the streets around St Lazare used to be the Impressionists stronghold in Paris. ’’by métro’’ Major stations are: Opéra (3, 7, 8), Chausette d’Antin La Fayette (7, 9), and Grands Boulevards (8, 9). oPéra district ■■ Opera Garnier, place de l’Opéra. The magnificent setting for The Phantom of the Opera, the inside is as opulent as the outside. However, since the opening of the Opera Bastille (12th) in 1989, the Palais Garnier has been reserved mostly for dance performances, particularly ballet. ■■ Musée Grévin, 10 Boulevard Montmartre. This is a wax museum, primarily of interest to older children. ■■ Site of the first public demonstration of the Lumiere brother’s moving picture projection system, See the pair of commemorative plaques at number 14, Bd. des Capucines between rue Scribe and rue Edward VIII.. musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Musée Gustave Moreau, 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld (Métro: Trinité). The house of the Symbolist painter has now become a museum to his life and work ■■ Musée Grévin. The Musée Grévin is a waxwork museum in Paris located on the Grands Boulevards on the right bank of Created for michael arrington Paris, France 113 the Seine with some 500 characters arranged in scenes from the history of France and modern life. do ■■ les Grands Boulevards. Go shopping at the grands magasins (department stores). ■■ Olympia hall, 28, boulevard des Capucines. Concerts for an older crowd. Be sure to tip the usher €2 or so. ■■ Paris from above. Admire the skyline from the roofs of Printemps or the Galeries Lafayette. There’s also a hot air balloon at Parc André Citroën (south-western Paris). It doesn’t operate on windy days, though. buy Particularly interesting in this area are the covered passageways built in the 19th Century: charming early versions of the shopping mall. There are several in the vicinity of boulevard Haussmann and rue Vivienne, including passage Jouffroy and passage Verdeau, and across the boulevard Haussmann in the 2nd arrondissement , the passage des Panoramas. The department stores along the boulevard Haussmann are overpriced compared to smaller specialty shops. For a more interesting selection and better quality-price ratio, venture out to the innumerable shopping streets in Paris. Make sure to say bonjour on entering and merci, au revoir on leaving. For more information on common courtesy in Paris, see the main Paris article. Lafayette, 40 boulevard Haussmann. The gourmet section is a Paris institution that takes up an entire floor, featuring (among many other things) several competing vendors of deluxe baguettes, a few hundred types of cheese and an entire aisle devoted to mustard. Depending on your home country you may be eligible for a 10% discount for all goods (you just need to show a flyer that is attached to tourist office Paris maps). ■■ Printemps, 64 boulevard Haussmann. ■■ Galeries Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 114 Eat If you’re in the southern part of the neighborhood, you might also consider arrondissements 2 or 8 - neither are more than a short walking distance. You could also visit the food section of any of the grands magasins, or one of the smaller traiteurs (shops selling prepared food), and pick up the ingredients for a piquenique in the square Louis XVI on boulevard Haussmann and rue Pasquier; square de la Trinité, at the top of rue de la chaussée d’Antan--free concerts in the church at 12 ■■ Pizza Marzano, 30 Boulevard des Italiens (Métro: Opéra). UK travellers will be familiar with the above-average pizza / pasta menu, speedy table service and very reasonable prices. This outlet has a large al fresco area for the warmer months. ■■ Pizza Marzano Clichy, 10 Bis Place de Clichy. On the site of an old Paris restaurant, La Champagne, this second “Pizza Express” outlet (they’re both in the 9th) is located close to the Moulin Rouge and Montmartre ■■ Au Relais, 7 rue Cadet. Downstairs is the local bar with a few tables most patrons know the two women behind the bar by name. Upstairs is a low-ceilinged dining room. On weekdays they have a 12-euro lunch menu for two courses and a small pitcher of wine. The food is traditional and very good. 12 to 20 Euros. ■■ Chartier, 7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, (Métro: Grand Boulevard). Since 1896. Menu changes daily, historic building. Nice and cheap food. Plain cooking don’t expect haute cuisine. drink Café Zéphyr, 12 bd Montmartre (Métro Grands Boulevards). A typical brasserie with a fine choice of simple food (salads, etc.). ■■ I Golosi, 6 rue Grange Batelière (Métro Grands Boulevards). In a quiet side street, a good Italian wine bar and shop where you can buy the wines you will have tasted. ■■ Le Created for michael arrington Paris, France 115 budgEt ■■ Hotel de Lille, 2 rue du Montholon (Métro: Poissonière). Hotel de Lille is a cheap, family-run fairly spartan yet charming hotel in the centre of Paris, near the Gare du Nord. The area around this train station, worked by street prostitutes, is not very pleasant at night. ■■ Perfect Hotel & Hostel, 39 rue Rodier (Métro: Anvers). The Perfect advertises bargain rates for backpackers and families. mid-rangE ■■ Hotel Gotty Opera, 11, rue de Trevise (Metro: Grands Boulevards, Cadet). A three-star, just a stone’s throw from Folies Bergere in a quiet street, yet close to bistros, supermarkets and in walking distance to major attractions. ■■ Hotel Langlois, 63, rue Sant-Lazare (Metro: Porte de la Chapelle). The service is impeccable, and the rooms are gorgeous. The plumbing is also first rate, by any standards. They service a decent breakfast in the morning, but there are also a boulangerie and a bar just down the street. ■■ Paris Hotel, 23, Rue Henri Monnier (Metro: Pigalle or Saint Georges (both 400m away)). This is a nice 3 star, situated near Pigalle. The rooms are of decent quality and the views of the street are charming and typically Parisian (lots of Balcony’s and Shutters at the front, and a pleasant garden view at the back.) There’s free Wi-Fi in the rooms and a nice breakfast room. The street can get a little noisy at night, but that’s typical of the area and probably not enough to keep you awake but you should be aware in cae you happen to be a light sleeper. There is a Renault parking garage round the corner which charged €52 for 72 hours. A good choice if you’re after a reasonably quiet clean hotel at a modest rate. ■■ Hotel Jules, 49-51 rue La Fayette, 75009 Paris, France (close to Metro station Le Palletier). 3 Star hotel ideally located within two bohemian Parisian districts - Gare Saint Lazare and Gare de Nords. Close to Garnier Opera House. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 116 sPlurgE ■■ Scribe, 1, rue Scribe. Crown jewel in the Sofitel chain, this elegantly redecorated 4 star hotel hasn’t lost any of its charm since it was first opened in 1895. All rooms are sound proofed and come with wifi access. The apartments have a separate entrance and they can provide you with a nanny if needed. contact Paris/9ème arrondissement Paris {{usablecity} Created for michael arrington Paris, France 117 paris/10th arrondissement The 10th arrondissement of Paris centers on the Canal St. Martin and the restaurants and cafés which line its banks. Part sleepy faubourg — as suburbs were called in 18th century Paris — and part industrial center, the 10th arrondissement has lately enjoyed the benefits of both the booming nightlife scene in the neighboring 11th, as well as the Parisien cycling and rollerblading boom. The streets lining the canal become car-free for the later half of the day each Saturday, and all day on Sundays for your cycling and strolling pleasure. There is another, more bustling side to the cosmopolitan 10th, however, as the location of two primary entry / exit points for the city, in the form of the two great train stations Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est. One final focus to the 10th is the historic Place de la République in the far south of the arrondissement, its many bars, restaurants and cafés. ’’by métro’’ As it is everywhere in Paris all metro stations are not equal. Stations such as Place de la Republique connect to many lines but can be time consuming for a first time visitor. A smaller station such as Goncourt is easier to get in and out of. You may walk a bit more on the street but that’s easy and a lot more fun. do ■■ Promenade Canal St. Martin. Enjoy a leisurely stroll along the water’s edge while viewing amazing sunset’s over the canal. Linger over a coffee and tuck into a pastry while feeling that you are experiencing the true Paris. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 118 buy ■■ Artazart, 83 quai de Valmy (Métro Jacques Bonsergent). book- shop, specialized in design & graphic design lots of imports The Boulevard de Strasbourg found between Place de la République and Gare de l’Est is known for supporting the coiffure or hairdressing trade, with dozens of shops selling hairdressing equipment and supplies. Interestingly the African hairdressers of Paris have set up shop right alongside their suppliers. So if you’re interested you can have your hair done up in dreadlocks, pearly braids or another African style and can have your nails done too! ■■ Have a look at the Indian shops in le Passage Brady. Eat 21 rue Juliette Dodu (near le canal Saint Martin). A lounge bar restaurant with a bobo environment and rich dishes. ■■ Julien, 16 rue du Faubourg-St Denis (Métro: Strasbourg-St Denis). The original 1890 decor of this Parisian dining classic is a mix of Cuban mahogany and Art Nouveau paintings and fixtures - an atmospheric treat. The cuisine is mostly southwestern French: lots of foie gras and the specialty, cassoulet d’oie (goose in white beans). ■■ Mukura, 79 quai de Valmy (Métro: Château Landon). This tiny Colombian restaurant calls itself a “Salon du chocolat, café, thé & fruits latino”. In fact they serve a variety of fine plates for lunch or dinner, and the really cool thing is that it’s one of the few truly non-smoking dining rooms around. Make sure to try their Lulo juice as well as their fruit salads. Lulo is a fruit native to Colombia. ■■ La Vigne Saint Laurent, 2 rue Saint Laurent (Métro : Gare de l’Est). Tiny wine bar, good choice of classic country food ■■ Baxo, Created for michael arrington Paris, France 119 (beautiful ‘charcuterie’) & good choice of not too expensive wines a bistro local people visit a lot. ■■ Restaurant La Strasbourgeoise, 5 rue du 8 Mai 1945 (Métro Garde de l’Est). One of the good “choucroutes” in Paris, in a nice décor --try it. There are lots of “Indian” Restaurants (actually very often owned by Pakistanis) #in Rue du faubourg Saint Denis, between Rue du Château d’Eau & Rue de la Fidélité (Métro: Château d’Eau): cheap dishes, vegetarian food, tandoori food (typically 5 €) #(slightly more upscale) in Passage Brady (between Boulevard de Strasbourg and Rue du faubourg Saint Denis) for example Shalimar is a good choice, #in the same Rue du faubourg Saint Denis but higher up, between Gare du Nord & Boulevard de la Chapelle (Métro Gare du Nord or La Chapelle) —especially Tamil food & Pondicherry specialties; also clothes & hardware shops. drink ■■ Baxo, 21 rue Juliette Dodu (near le canal Saint Martin). A new ■■ Le romantic lounge bar with a very nice patio. Verre Volé, 67 r Lancry (near the canal Saint Martin). A part wine bar-part wine shop, an excellent address for nice, simple food & wines -and you can take home a bottle you’ve sampled during meal if you wish! budgEt There are a number of real cheapies in the 10th which seem to be worth checking out. ■■ Peace and Love Hostel, 245, rue Lafayette (Métro: Jaurès). Travellers who have a lot of hostel staying experience mostly find the Peace and Love to be well within the high quality range for hostels. As usual in Paris the rooms are pretty small, the staff in general gets high marks, but the manager Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 120 has been known to be crabby. Apparently the pub is good enough that there’s some danger you might not go out. ■■ Hôtel Vicq d’Azir, 21 rue Vicq-d’Azir (Métro: Colonel-Fabien). This little cheapie is in the process of a renovation under its new management. Most of the rooms overlook a nice little courtyard with a tree. ■■ Hôtel du Terrage, 25, rue du Terrage (Métro: Gare-de-l’Est). ■■ Hôtel Climat de France Brady, 31, bd Strasbourg (Métro : Strasbourg Saint Denis or Château d’Eau). Cheap - good location : within walking distance of Les Halles, Place de la République, etc. mid-rangE ■■ Hôtel Altona, 166, rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière (Métro: Barbès-Rochechouart). ■■ Albert 1er Hotel, 162, rue Lafayette. The hotel is located near Gare du Nord that is very convenient for travelling to the suburbs and it takes only 30 minutes walk to get to the city center. The rooms are not too big but very clean and well equipped. The staff is friendly and can send you an official reservation confirmation if you need it. contact Paris/10ème_arrondissement Created for michael arrington Paris, France 121 paris/11th arrondissement The 11th Arrondissement of Paris is home to two quite different but equally blossoming centers of Parisian nightlife. The streets just northwest of Place de Bastille are full of little bars which attract a mix of young suburban Parisians, ex-pats, and foreigners. Many have a Latin-American theme. Meanwhile the restaurants, bars, and wine-bars around Rue Oberkampf in the north of the 11th and rue de Charonne near Avenue Ledru Rollin attract a more urban crowd and are perhaps closer to something traditionally Parisian, while capturing a bit of the grungy feel of drinking spots in up-and-coming inner city neighborhoods everywhere. sEE d’Hiver. Mainly used as a concert hall and venue for fashion shows today, the Cirque d’Hiver was originally built in 1852 - as the name would suggest - as a winter venue for circuses. ■■ Musée Edith Piaf, 5 rue Crespin du Gast (Métro Ménilmontant). ■■ Cirque do ■■ Ô Chateau, Paris Wine Tasting. Discover French Wines variety and specificity with a native French Sommelier. Informative, relaxing and fun. In English in a beautiful parisian loft. buy ■■ Distribution, 108 avenue Ledru-Rollin (Métro: Ledru-Rollin). It may be a strange name for a store which sells toys and baby-clothes, but it’s a good place to go if you happen to be in town with someone very small and find yourself needing a new pair of jammies, without paying the cost of a night at Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 122 the hotel. There are a range of new, used and consignment clothes, and if you like they will manufacture tee-shirts, onesies, very small lab-coats, or other such items with a message or design of your choice. obErkamPF ■■ Clown Bar, 114 rue Amelot (Métro: Filles du Calvaire or Oberkampf ). The food served in this absolutely beautiful room is classic French. The decor is classic Circus, which makes sense since it’s just two doors north of the building which has traditionally housed circuses passing through during the winter. ■■ L’Estaminet, 116 rue Oberkampf (Métro: Parmentier or Ménilmontant). French food with a high degree of originality and creativity. The service is warm and friendly, and so is the decor. ■■ Norbulinga, 118 rue Amelot (Métro: Filles du Calvaire or Oberkampf ). Open from noon to 200pm daily except Sundays. Tibetan restaurants aren’t widely known to be vegetarian friendly, but this beautifully appointed one certainly is with a list of around 12 vegetarian dishes. Of course there’s plenty for meat lovers as well. Some dishes might remind you of spicier western Chinese cooking, others seem a bit more south-Asian. ■■ Le Trou Normand, 9 rue Jean Pierre Timbaud (Métro: Oberkampf ). ■■ Aux Comptoirs des Indes, 50 rue de la Fontaine Au Roi (Métro: Parmentier). Indian. ■■ Le Troisième Bureau, 74 rue de la folie Mericourt (Métro: Parmentier). French ■■ Le Kitch, 10 rue Oberkampf (Métro: Oberkampf ). A tiny french restaurant with a kitch atmosphere, at least visually. The music on the other hand is fresh, mostly trip-hop and zen as of this writing. The food is good too. ■■ Café Cannibale, 93 rue jean-pierre timbaud (Métro: Parmentier). Originally ladies-only, it’s co-ed now. The word “Fashionable” doesn’t even start to explain the place. ■■ Avé Maria, 1 rue Jacquard (Métro: Oberkampf ). Brasilian favela chic. The friendly folks who run this place have been hosting Brasilian dance nights at various venues around Created for michael arrington Paris, France 123 town. But don’t just come in to check out the posters stay a while for the fantastic vegetarian friendly South-American and international cuisine at reasonable prices. ■■ Casa Palenque, 130 rue St Maur (Métro: Parmentier). This somewhat upmarket Mexican caterer and restaurant places an emphasis on authenticity. It’s one of the only places to go in Paris for real tamales. bastillE ■■ Indiana Tex-Mex. The Place de Bastille location of this popular chain of Tex-Mex is worth mentioning at least because of its ability to draw a crowd. Of note also is the truth in advertising: this is Tex-Mex food prepared exactly as you would expect to find in say, Indianapolis Indiana. ■■ Blue Elephant, 43 rue de la Roquette (Métro: Bastille). A much beloved Thai restaurant just off of Place de Bastille, this place is tiny, so book ahead. ■■ Suds, 55, Rue Charonne (Métro: Bastille or Ledru Rollin). An interesting mix of cuisines from South America, Southern Asia, the South of France or any other southern place the chef takes an interest in. ■■ Le Café des Anges, 66 rue de la Roquette (Métro: Bastille). A good place for salads. ■■ Le bar à Soupes, 33 rue de Charonne (Métro: Bastille). A large selection of different soups (including some vegetarian options), a few new ones each day, served with your choice of an equally wide selection of breads and cheeses. ■■ Le Cyrano, 55 rue de la Roquette (Métro: Bastille). budgEt ■■ Hôtel Voltaire République, 10, boulevard Voltaire (Métro: République). ■■ Hôtel Mondia, 22 rue du Grand-Prieuré (Métro: Oberkampf or Répubique). ■■ Hôtel de Nemours, 8, rue de Nemours (Métro: Parmentier). Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 124 mid-rangE ■■ Classics Hôtel, 131, rue de Charonne (Métro: Charonne). ■■ Grand Hôtel Nouvel Opera, 152, avenue Ledru-Rollin (Métro: Voltaire). This little 3-star gets pretty much consistently positive reviews on line. ■■ Hôtel du Nord et de l’Est, 49, rue de Malte (Métro: République or Oberkampf ). Found among a cluster of two-star hotels off of Place de la République, the North and East has been in the process lately of doing some renovation, bringing some but not all of the rooms up to high three-star standards. Regardless of which type of room you book the place is quiet and cheerful and has WI-FI. It’s a good value, and to top it off they often have vacancies when all of the hotels in more popular quarters are booked. ■■ Hôtel Le Quartier République, Le Marais, 39, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud (Métro: Parmentier or République). A budget hotel just a bit from République which offers a fitness Centre, and free WiFi, though “Le Marais” is a bit of a stretch. They tout themselves as funky and affordable place to stay, we’ll leave it up to you to decide what to make of that. ■■ Le Général Hôtel, 5-7 rue Rampon. 3 star hotel near République and Oberkampf with mostly positive reviews. They’ve certainly put a certain amount of budget into graphic and interior design. Please note that the breakfast is not included. contact ■■ Malte 38, 38 rue de Malte. Internet café with good rates. Paris/11ème arrondissement Paris {{isInParis} Created for michael arrington Paris, France 125 paris/12th arrondissement The 12th arrondissement of Paris is one of the largest of the city’s districts even without the 2,460 acre Bois de Vincennes, which more than doubles its size. Gare de Lyon in the 12th will likely be your arrival point if you are coming from Switzerland, Italy, or the south of France. ’’by métro’’ The newest Métro, line 14, serves Gare de Lyon and Gare de Bercy. Line 1 crosses the arrondissement east-west serving Bastille, Gare de Lyon, Reuilly-Diderot, Nation, and Porte de Vincennes. Line 8 crosses the arrondissement east-west serving Bastille, Ledru-Rollin, Faidherbe-Chaligny, Reuilly-Diderot, Montgallet, Daumesnil, Michel Bizot, Porte Dorée, and Porte de Charenton. Line 6 arrives from the left bank, serving Bercy, Dugommier, Daumesnil, Bel-Air, and Picpus. The RER-A passes east-west through the 12th serving Gare de Lyon and Nation. landmarks ■■ Jardin Yitzhak Rabin. Nestled in the center of the Parc Bercy (below) is a lovely, and truly peaceful, garden with several waterworks and other high-quality landscape-art pieces. If you are one of the many people visiting the 12th on business it would be well worth an hour of your time between meetings and dinner to explore the mound, the fountain, and the bridges, and to watch children play in complete peace, much Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 126 like the peace to which the garden’s namesake dedicated his life. ■■ Bercy Village. For a taste of the French countryside, visit Bercy Village brings to life the spirit of market shopping inside Paris. ■■ Palais Omnisports de Paris-Bercy. Is an indoor sports arena designed by architects, seats around 17,000. musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Palais de la Porte Dorée, 293 avenue Daumesnil (Métro: Porte Dorée). Housed in an amazing Art Deco building, purposebuilt for the 1931 Colonial Exhibition, featuring an elaborate frieze across the front facade that depicts the achievement of French overseas territories do ■■ Opéra Bastille, Place de la Bastille (Métro Bastille). One of the truly great venues for the performing arts anywhere in the world, Paris’ new opera house actually managed to inspire some neighborhood protest during its planning and contruction. Pretty much everybody is a believer nowadays though. Check out the website for upcoming shows, it might even make sense to plan a trip to Paris around one. ■■ Promenade Plantée. If you were a city planner in one of the great cities of our Earth and you discovered that a railroad right-of-way had been abandoned and would never be used again what might you do? Perhaps if you know your stuff you’d convert it into a 4 mile long park, about half of which is elevated above street level on the old rail viaduct. This long narrow park pretty much allows the visitor to walk in carfree bliss from Place de Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes. ■■ Parc de Bercy. Between the River Seine and the rail yards attached to Gare de Lyon and Gare de Bercy is a green space which would seem pretty huge if the 12th weren’t also the home of the Bois de Vincennes. The park is a good place to Created for michael arrington Paris, France 127 hang out waiting for the line to form for sporting events and concerts at the Palais Omnisport. ■■ Bercy Expo. ■■ Bois de Vincennes. buy There are any number of shops catering to the needs of travelers in and around Gare de Lyon, where you can easily replace a piece of broken luggage or even buy a suit if you suddenly find yourself with a business appointment. The archways of the former railroad right-of-way which now support the promenade plantée are home to trendy restaurants, designer’s studios, and art galleries. Taken as a whole it’s known as the Viaduc des Arts’, and is well worth a stroll for those interested in art and design. Another shopping highlight of the 12th is the amazing number of electronics and computer shops, mostly clustered around rue Charenton near the Jardin de Reuilly, as one would expect the intense competition keeps prices low (for Europe). ■■ Cyclades Electronique, 11 Bd Diderot. A cut above the others, and on the other side of the station, Cyclades is the place to go if you need parts. Perhaps you have an out-of-production laptop which needs exactly 18.5 volts? They’ve got the charger. They’ve also got a full range of capacitors, resistors, transistors, chips, model airplane electronics and mechanics, tools, and much much more. ■■ New PC Charenton, 171 rue de Charenton. This is just one example out of the many computer shops in the immediate area, included here to help you find them all. Check the prices here, next door, and across the street. When you find the lowest bidder plunge forward and add them here please! ■■ Marche d’Aligre. Cheapest open air market in Paris, on Rue d’Aligre. Produce plus carpets, clothes, antiques. Covered market, Marche Beauvau, is adjacent. North African influence, many food shops surround it. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 128 Eat ■■ l’Ébauchoir, 43-45 rue de Citeaux (at the corner of rue faubourg Saint Antoine). A typical restaurant of the bo-bo (bourgeois - bohème) population of this district. Good traditional cooking with middle prices. ■■ Refuge, 54 Avenue Daumesnil ( just around the corner from Gare de Lyon). This charming storefront bistro offers an adventurous take on traditional french cooking, and with a couple of good selections for vegetarians, including a €12 vegetarian menu. The indoor vineyard decor appeals for its artsy clutter the only indications that the owner and chef is a former rugby star being the newpaper clipping on the wall and the almost hidden world championship medal behind the bar. ■■ Le Train bleu. Located in the 1st floor of Gare d’Lyon with colonial charm. Serves hautes cuisines in amazing surrounding. Reservations strongly recommended budgEt ■■ Hostel Blue Planet, 5 rue Hector Malot (Métro: Gare de Lyon). This hostel, within a block of the Gare de Lyon station, has bunk beds in shared rooms sleeping 4-6 people. Some rooms have showers and toilets. A basic breakfast of pastries and hot drinks is included in the price. ■■ Hôtel Prince Albert, 38 boulevard Diderot (Métro: Gare de Lyon). ■■ Hôtel de l’Aveyron, 5 rue d’Austerlitz (Métro: Gare de Lyon). ■■ Hôtel Royal Bel Air, 10 Avenue du Bel-Air. ■■ Corail Hotel, 23 rue de Lyon (Métro: Gare de Lyon). ■■ Hotel Le Quartier Bercy - Square, 33, boulevard de Reuilly. Hotel Le Quartier Bercy Square, located in the 12th arrondissement, is right between Metro stations Dugommier and Daumesnil (Lines 6 and 8). It has easy access to Palais Omnisports at Bercy, Cours St. Emillon with its lively area of shops, restaurants, and bars, and train stations Gare de Bercy and Gare de Lyon. And with Line 14 at Bercy station just down the road, the rest of Paris is only minutes from you. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 129 mid-rangE ■■ Ibis Gare De Lyon Diderot, 31 Bis Boulevard Diderot (Métro: Gare de Lyon, use the side entrance of the station downstairs). This particular branch of the Ibis chain is a bit more comfortable than most, especially worthwhile if you have just arrived at Gare de Lyon. The website has current price information, and links to their 650 sister hotels across Europe. Breakfast (10 Eur., until 10 am) is the pretty ordinary buffet fare. ■■ Hotel Le Quartier Bastille, Le Faubourg, 9 rue de Reuilly. The big draw at Le Quartier is the interior patio which really is as nice as advertised and is full of plants and an interesting designer fountain. The location is good for those looking for an easy stumble from the bars around Bastille. ■■ Hotel Palym, 4, rue Emile Gilbert. This nice little hotel is around the right price and probably has the closest possible access to the Air France airport buses. ■■ Hôtel de la Porte Dorée, 273, avenue Daumensnil. sPlurgE ■■ Mercure Paris Gare de Lyon, 2, place Louis Armand (Métro: Gare de Lyon). ■■ Sofitel Paris Bercy, 1, avenue Terroirs de France (Métro: Cour St-Emillion). intErnEt caFés ■■ Les Meilleur des Mondes, 4 bis rue Michel Chasles (Métro: Gare de Lyon). Internet access and office applications. Paris/12ème arrondissement Paris {{isInParis} Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 130 paris/13th arrondissement The 13th arrondissement of central Paris is primarily a residential and business district in the south-eastern part of the French capital, lying on the Left Bank of the river Seine. Although not usually recognised as a natural drawcard for tourists, the 13th nonetheless does hold several attractions of interest to the traveller that include the recently-completed Bibliothèque Nationale de France (National Library), now part of a major new development of the Paris Rive Gauche district, the second large-scale urbanism project inside the city of Paris. To the west of the PRG along avenue de Tolbiac is the first of these urbanism projects, Les Olympiades, with its raised esplanade and the latest of the Paris Meteor (high-speed metro) stops, . The southern part of the arrondissement is the “China town” of Paris, one of (or even the) biggest in Europe. on Foot The easy walk to the 13th arrondissement from the center of Paris (Île de la Cité) takes around 40 minutes, either through back streets or along the Seine promenade. It can be a very pleasant walk: you can walk across the Latin Quarter, for example, through the rue Mouffetard in the Paris/5th arrondissement. by métro You can get to the 13th arrondissement using 3 metro lines: Ligne 7 serves Gobelins’ near the Manufacture des Gobelins, Place d’Italie, Tolbiac good entrance point for the Paris Chinatown, Maison-Blanche, and Porte d’Italie, Porte de Choisy and Porte d’Ivry; you will get to these three stations if and only if you take a train that goes to the Mairie d’Ivry direction. Other trains take another direction and leave Paris immediately after Maison-Blanche. Ligne 6 serves Glacière, Corvisart, Place_d’Italie, Nationale, Chevaleret - near the avant-garde art galleries of rue LouiseWeiss, and Quai de la Gare, near the Bat-O-Far and other . Created for michael arrington Paris, France 131 Ligne 14 serves Bibliothèque François-Mitterrand (near the new Bibliothèque de France), and the newest station in Paris, Olympiades, the new terminus. sEE ■■ La ■■ La Bibliothèque Nationale de France. Butte aux Cailles. A little district within the district. Very charming little streets on a hill in the western end of the 13 district. Nice for lunching/dining activities. This is the place where the band “Mano Negra” was hanging around. ■■ Stade Charléty. ■■ Manufacture des Gobelins. do Stroll across the Seine on the Pont Simone de Beauvoir pedestrian bridge from the Bibliotheque Nationale to the Parc de Bercy. buy ■■ Les frères Tang, avenue de Choisy. The Tang brothers have the biggest Chinese grocery in Paris, occupying several multistory barracks-like buildings tucked into the Olympic housing project. They’re known for giving away large balloons during Chinese New Year celebrations. Eat The southern part of the district is the good place to go if you like asian food. Avenue de Choisy at rue de Tolbiac. One of many Chinese places in the outer part of the Arrondissement ■■ Ph? 14 (across from Sinorama). for Vietnamese soups Elsewhere the 13th has some other standouts. ■■ Sinorama, Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 132 Pirate. Gladines, 5 rue des Cinq Diamants (On the Butte aux cailles). Big Basque salads and a lot of ambiance in this moderately low-budget restaurant. ■■ le Temps des Cerises, 18-20, rue de la butte-aux-cailles (Métro: Place d’Italie). If you are looking for quality French food, a large choice of good and affordable wine this is the place to go. This is what we can call a “restaurant populaire” (as opposed to other posh and expensive places around) with a friendly staff, a very nice atmosphere, no way to reserve a table, just show up and the “patron” will find a place for you (arrive before 8 if you don’t want to queue up especially on week ends), shut down you mobile or you will be kicked out !!!. The “Boudin a la Normande” (blood sausage) is a must, you can also get very decent goose liver and other French speciality such as “Salade de Museau”. ■■ Green Garden, 20 rue nationale (Métro: Port d’Ivry). EastAsian Vegetarian ■■ Chez ■■ Guinguette drink ■■ Batofar, 11 quai François Mauriac (Métro: Biblioteque François Mitterand or Quai de la Gare). This little red lighthouse boat which hosts dance and chill electronic music and other multimedia cultured events has been one of the coolest spots around for some time. The dancefloor is in the hold, and the lounge on the upper deck. Of particular interest is the Sunday afternoon chillout/cookout event which spills out onto the quai (during nice weather). budgEt All of the following hotels are located near Place d’Italie, where public transportation is excellent. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 133 Italie Gobelins, 5 rue Veronese. Ibis Paris Avenue d’Italie, 15 bis Avenue d’Italie. . ■■ Timhotel Italie, 22 rue Barrault. ■■ Hôtel Verlaine, 51 rue Bobillot. ■■ Jack’s, 19 avenue Stéphen Pichon. (a very quiet street). . Jean Genet died in this hotel in 1986. ■■ Hotel ■■ Kyriad mid-rangE ■■ La Manufacture, 8 Rue Phillipe de Champagne. ■■ Mercure Blanqui Place d’Italie, 25 boulevard Auguste Blanqui. ■■ Mercure Gobelins. 8 bis avenue de la Soeur Rosalie ■■ Holiday Inn Bibliotheque, 21 rue de Tolbiac. ■■ Holiday Inn Express Paris place d’Italie, 178 boulevard Vincent Auriol. sPlurgE ■■ Les Hotels de Paris Villa Lutece Port Royale, 52 Rue Jenner. contact Paris/13ème arrondissement XIIIe_arrondissement Paris {{isInParis} Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 134 paris/14th arrondissement Although largely residential, the 14th arrondissement is best known for Montparnasse (both the station and the towering skyscraper (Tour Montparnasse), for the Paris Catacombs and the Parc Montsouris. The Cité Universitaire is also found in this district traditionally known for lively cafés and restaurants around the Boulevard du Montparnasse and the rue Daguerre. gEt in Metro 6 and RER B Denfert-Rochereau stop. sEE ■■ les Catacombes de Paris, 1 place de Denfert Rochereau (Métro: Denfert-Rochereau). One of the most eye-popping sights of Paris, the Catacombs represent a network of labyrinthine tunnels, first excavated in the Roman period, that now house the remains of over 6 million burials removed here from the various overcrowded cemeteries and charnel houses all over Paris in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Well worth a visit: the atmosphere is suitably morbid and gloomy (without being too scary), the dark tunnels containing neatly stacked piles of skulls and long bones. Currently closed for renovation until March 2008. ■■ Parc Montsouris, boulevard Jourdan (RER Cité-Universitaire). Considered one of the most colourful Parisian parks, a local favourite, the Parc Montsouris was opened in 1878, having been designed by Alphand for the Baron Haussmann. A large man-made lake and waterfalls are surrounded by long stretches of gently sloping lawns. Bronze statues are to be found studded around the grounds, amongst the 1,400 trees, including such exotic varities as the giant sequoia and the ginkgo. ■■ Cimitière du Montparnasse, 3 boulevard Edgar-Quinet (Métro: Edgar-Quinet, Raspail). ■■ Tour Montparnasse. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 135 Eat ■■ Suraj, 121 rue didot (Métro: Plaisance). A varied menu of dish- es from different regions of India. Coupole, 102 boulevard du Montparnasse (Métro: Vavin). The famous Art Deco brasserie, convenient for a quick meal before / after a train journey to / from Montparnasse station. ■■ Zango, 58 rue Daguere (Métro: Denfert Rochereau). Named for the traveller’s tree, used by nomads to guide their desert crossings, this “world food” restaurant has an atmosphere dedicated to travel and exploration. Their bookshelf is crammed with a huge selection of travel guides and magazines, grab one and enjoy over a delicious brunch. ■■ Aquarius, 40 rue Gergovie (Métro: Pernety). By all reports a nice casual 100% vegetarian restaurant with excellent hummus among other offerings. ■■ Le Moulin Vert. ■■ Le Severo. ■■ La mid-rangE ■■ Sofitel Forum Paris Rive Gauche. A nice hotel and is well located between the St Jacques and Glaciere metro stations (no more than 2 blocks to each), and very convenient with a nearby grocery, patisserie for bread etc. near Glaciere and several cafés. Very friendly staff. ■■ L’hôtel du Lion. A lovely privately owned, 2 star hotel. On Place Denfert-Rochereau, near Montparnasse. Metro stations are nearby and it perfectly situated for sight-seeing. A small supermarket is nearby, as well as a street market, various friendly bars, and a nice scenery. contact Paris/14ème arrondissement Paris {{outline} Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 136 paris/15th arrondissement The 15th arrondissement of Paris is located in the south-west of the city on the Left Bank of the river Seine. undErstand The 15th, the largest arrondissement of central Paris, remains heavily residential, up-market and quiet - not a great deal of obvious attractions for the traveller here.... Several sights, however, might make a detour worthwhile. Especially of note is the fact that meeting a real Parisian might make it worth the trip. landmarks ■■ Parc des Expositions. Paris’ international exhibition centre (the 4th largest in Europe) has millions of visitors annually musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Musée Pasteur, Institut Pasteur, 25 rue du Dr-Roux. the Pasteur Museum is housed in the apartment where the great scientist spent the last 7 years of his life. Hardly touched since that time, the museum is full of personal memorabilia and scientific instruments. Pasteur is buried on the grounds in a flamboyant mosaic-decorated mausoleum. do ■■ Tapovan Paris, 9 rue Gutenberg. This ayurvedic centre offers both treatment and professional training in various ayurvedic healing arts: hatha & nada yoga, reiki, ayurvedic massage, reflexologie, oil treatments (e.g. Shirodhara), etc. Those seeking greater calm, deeper therapy, or intense training may also take units at their center in Upper Normandy. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 137 Eat ■■ Le Pétel, 4 rue Petel (Métro: Vaugirard). Intimate, delicious, and local traditional cuisine. ■■ Café Zinc-Zen, 114, rue de la Convention. Small café with 2 seating areas - seats in the windows and a darker back room. Elegant but not expensive, great lunches/dinners, and superb crème brûlée for a night cap with coffee. budgEt ■■ Aloha Youth Hostel, 1, Rue Borromée. No membership card required. ■■ 3 Ducks Hostel, 6 pl. Etienne Pernet (near the Eiffel Tower). mid-rangE ■■ Eiffel Seine, 140, Boulevard de Grenelle. ■■ Hôtel Oceania Paris Porte De Versailles, 52 rue d’Oradoursur-Glane. ■■ Campanile Paris XV - Tour Eiffel, 30 Rue Saint Charles / 21 Rue Sextius-Michel (2 mn from the Dupleix metro station ligne 6, 2 mn from the Charles Michel metro station - ligne 10, and 5 mn from the RER C station - Champs de Mars). English & Spanish spoken at reception. contact Paris/15ème arrondissement XVe_arrondissement Paris {{outline} Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 138 paris/16th arrondissement sEE du Trocadéro. Great perspective on the Eiffel Tower and Left Bank. ■■ Musée Marmottan. Monet’s best works are in this charming museum. ■■ Palais do ■■ The Bois de Boulogne is a park located along the western edge of the 16ème arrondissement of Paris, near the suburb of Boulogne-Billancourt. The Bois de Boulogne has an area of 8.459 km² (3.266 sq. miles, or 2,090 acres), which is 2.5 times larger than Central Park in New York, and 3.3 times larger than Hyde Park in London. At night time, the area welcomes a different scene, and becomes one of Paris’ most prominent red-light districts. budgEt ■■ Carette, 4. Place du Trocadéro (Metro Trocadéro). This Patesserie and Salon du the also has great food. The salads are amazing, and there is delicious cakes for dessert. mid rangE ■■ La Butte Chaillot, 110 bis, avenue Kleber (Métro: Trocadero). A Guy Savoy restaurant ■■ La Gare Chaussée De La Muette. sPlurgE ■■ L’Astrance. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 139 drink ■■ Totem, 17 Place du Trocadero. Get a fantastic view of the Eiffel Tower from this restaurant-tearoom opposite the Champ de Mars. Just next to the Musee de l’Homme, this charming place is an ideal spot to grab a drink or two. mid-rangE ■■ Mon Hotel, 1 Rue d’Argentine. With a relaxed and intimate atmosphere, the Mon Hotel caters for those seeking a stylish base in central Paris. contact Paris/16ème arrondissement Paris {{outline} Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 140 paris/17th arrondissement The 17th arrondissement of Paris lies slightly off the beaten path, directly north of the Arc de Triumph. However, if you want to see real Paris at some of its finest and wealthiest, this is where to go. There are no major sights to see, museums to go to, just amazing Haussmannian architecture, real French people, and that atmosphere of the quintessential Paris you’ve always imagined. ’’by métro’’ Line 3 has stops at Pereire, Porte de Champerret, and Wagram among others. sEE Make sure you admire the many luxurious townhouses along the avenues, and relax in hidden small parks and squares sprinkled throughout the area. Many of Paris’s upper class live in this district, and the architecture proudly shows this! The Parc Monceau is one of Paris’s best kept secrets, painted by Monet numerous times. It is a very elegant center of green in the middle of cosmopolitan Paris. Make sure you check out the statues, entrance rotunda and the surrounding mansions. Thanks to Haussmann himself this precious slice of parkland was reserved for the enjoyment and leisure of the people of Paris. It is unusual in France due to its casual, informal “English” style planning, and is a contrast to other Parisian parks such as the classically laid out and formal Luxemburg Gardens and the Tuileries. Randomly placed throughout the park are scaleddown architectural replicas including an Egyptian pyramid, Dutch windmill, and a Chinese fort. The Park has free Wi-fi for the internet-conscience. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 141 ■■ Musée Nissim de Camondo. Just as the owner left it and filled with 18th century art. do ■■ Marché ■■ Parc Poncelet. Street market. Monceau. Great place for a walk or picnic. Eat The XVIIe arrondissemnt has some of the finest Algerian cuisine in Paris- if you want a twist on the French wine and food, go try some! ■■ A Joy in Food, 2 rue Truffaut (Métro: Place de Clichy). Vegetarian home cooking drink ■■ James Joyce Pub, 71 Boulevard Gouvion St. Cyr.. Across from the Palais de Congres. Also serves standard Irish pub food. They screen Irish and English football and soccer. budgEt ■■ Hotel Eldorado, Rue des Dames 18 (Métro: Place de Clichy). The Eldorado, a former maison de rendez-vous, was once home to the kept women of the 19th century bourgeois. Now a very cute no star hotel, its charm more than makes up for what it lacks in amenities (who needs a TV in Paris anyway?). The staff is super friendly, the decor is garage sale chic, and there’s a lovely courtyard that fills with neighbourhood hipsters on warm evenings. It also has a very good location & you can easily avoid the noise of Pigalle or Montmartre’s high prices, but they’re within stumble distance if you decide to explore. For early risers breakfast (€5, until 10 am) is served in the attached restaurant/bar. Some English spoken, espe- Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 142 cially for those who pet the cat sprawled across the reception desk. ■■ Hotel Prince Albert Monceau, 9 Rue Tarbe. Free WiFi ■■ Hotel Saint Cyr Etoile, 101 Ave des Ternes. Just around the corner from Palais des Congres. Small rooms - but that is to be expected. Friendly staff and a nice breakfast each morning. contact Paris/17ème arrondissement XVIIe arrondissement Created for michael arrington Paris, France 143 paris/18th arrondissement The 18th arrondissement of Paris is probably best known for the hill of Montmartre which was the center of the Communard uprising of the late nineteenth century, but is also perhaps better known as the center of the flourishing artist community of the period from around 1907 to 1914. Picasso, Dali, Duchamp, Toulouse-Lautrec, and others from the vibrant early modern period lived and worked here until driven out either by political considerations during the First World War or rising property values thereafter. The 18th is also the home of a thriving ethnic community in the east and a sort of a red-light district along Boulevard de Clichy near Place Pigalle. gEt in Many of the hotels of the 18th are within walking distance of Gare du Nord, so if you are arriving from Britain, Belgium, or the Netherlands consider walking or taking a cab should you arrive at night or with baggage. ‘’by métro’’ From other parts of Paris your best bet is to arrive by . The 18th is primarily served by the Métro 4 and 12 lines from the center of town, or the 2 from the east and west. stations oF notE ■■ Abesses The station is fairly high up the slope of the hill, and the line is fairly deep underground, so getting up and down is part of the fun either in a seven-story spiral staircase decorated from top to bottom with murals by local amateur painters, or in one of two high-capacity modern elevator. If you have time and good knees the choice is clear. linEs Line 2 stops at stations from west to east: Place de Clichy, Blanche, Pigalle, Anvers, and Barbès-Rochechouart. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 144 Line 4 has stops at stations from south to north: BarbèsRochechouart and Chateau Rouge. Line 12 has stop at stations from south to north: Pigalle, Abbesses landmarks ■■ Sacré-Cœur. Place de Parvis du Sacré Coeur / rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barrre, Métro: Abbesses / Anvers, open daily 6 am - 11 pm, admission charge - located at the summit of the hill of Montmartre, this wedding cake-white church rises visibly above the northern parts of Paris. The striking building with its towers and white onion dome (83 m high) were built in the years between 1875 and 1914 on the birthplace of La Commune, officially as an act of penitence for the sins committed during the civil war in which thousands of Communards were executed, as well as for the bloodshed of the 1870-1871 Franco-Prussian war which followed. A number of prominent businessmen put up the money and a dizzying combination of architects worked to put together the mock Romano-Byzantine extravaganza. Consecration followed in 1919. The view over Paris from the dome and from the square before it (200 m above sea level) is unsurpassed apart from that enjoyed at the Eiffel Tower (50 km on a clear day). For the athletic traveller there are stairs from several directions to the top of the hill, otherwise there is also a funicular which runs every few minutes during the daytime from place StPierre. Beware that the guards don’t like it if they catch you taking pictures inside and will even yell “No photo!” and chase you down if they see you with a camera. ■■ Cimetière de Montmartre, rue de la Barrière Blanch (Métro: Place de Clichy). There are a number of famous occupants, but the real reason to visit this cemetery is to see the ornate tombstones, sculptures, and other sometimes macabre, sometimes touching memorials Parisians have left here for their dead. ■■ Le Moulin Rouge, Pl. Blanche (Métro: Blanche). With two shows a night this turn-of-the-20th century burlesque palace offers a big production choreographed dance show interspersed with comedians, jugglers, and magicians. The show is more than bilingual, actually playing up the U.S. 4th infan- Created for michael arrington Paris, France 145 try’s involvement in the libération for the sake of the large number of Americans in the audience. If you want to spend more you can have dinner there. ■■ Place Pigalle. On the border with the 9th, The sleaze of Blvd. de Clichy between Pl. Pigalle and Pl. Blanche can provide a moment of distraction. Be warned if you are male it is better to do this in the company of a female fellow traveller, as the clubs often send the girls outside to attempt to physically drag passing men off of the street. ■■ Artists’ Square, place du Tertre. Numerous artists paint portraits of tourists and also sell their paintings. musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Espace Dali, 11 rue Poulbot (place du Tertre) (Métro: Anvers, Abbesses, Bus 54, 80, Montmartrobus, Funiculaire - depart from métro Anvers). A fantastic and undeservedly littleknown collection of the great Surrealist artist’s often overlooked sculptural works. do ■■ Cooking Class. Hands on French Cooking Classes in a relaxed atmosphere with an experienced French chef. 4 hours of fun, including Market visit, cheese and wine tasting, 5 minutes from the sacre-coeur in the heart of Montmartre. buy ■■ Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen, Porte de Clignancourt (Métro: Porte de Clignancourt). Widely-acclaimed as the largest flea market in all of Europe, in existence since 1885, this sprawling bazaar is made up of both permanent stalls and temporary stands (over 2,000 of them!), arranged in winding, sometimes chaotic arcades, over 10 miles of walkways, and over 10 differently-themed sub-markets. Everything from fine antiques through to collectible kitsch and brig-a-brac. Big on retro fashion also. Very popular with tourists, making it more difficult here to find a real bargain - but it’s always worth looking! Convenient, competitive shipping is available Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 146 at the market to send your precious finds back home all over the world. Be prepared to bargain! mid-rangE ■■ La Petaudiere, rue Poulbot. Piano bar on rue Poulbot - tasty food, nice ambience, good piano music (prepare some coins for the pianist). ■■ Au Grain de Folie, 24 Rue de la Vieuville. A one-woman operation with some mixed reviews, but apparently when she gets it right it’s just about the best dining experience you’ll ever have. Booking ahead by 24 hours is suggested. drink ■■ Truc Cafe, 58, rue de Portreau. A classic French wine bistro filled with young trendy singles. budgEt ■■ Hôtel Bonséjour, 11, rue Burq (Metro: Blanche). The handsdown winner in value for price at the low end, the Bonséjour offers 34 spartan but immaculately cleaned rooms on 5 floors. ■■ Hotel Sofia, 21 rue de Sofia (Metro: Anvers). The rooms are simple, but look comfortable enough, and the street seems to be a quite one for Montmartre. As a little bonus all of the rooms have a shower. sPlurgE ■■ Terrass Hotel, 12 rue Joseph-de-Maistre (Metro: Place de Clichy). An expertly decorated boutique hotel with magnificent views of Paris from the upper floors, The Terrass is a fantastic four-star splurge if you are looking for one. Very good service, but the food is just OK. contact Paris/18ème_arrondissement Montmartre Created for michael arrington Paris, France 147 paris/19th arrondissement The 19th arrondissement of Paris is located in the north of the city. ’’by métro’’ The main stop is Porte de la Villette on line 7. sEE ■■ La Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, 30 avenue CorentinCariou (Métro: Porte de la Villette). Opened in 1986 and continuously upgraded, this attraction draws over 5 million visitors a year who come to explore the world of science, technology and future possibilities. Includes the Louis Lumière 3D cinema. do ■■ Buttes Chaumont. Biggest, most hilly and least touristy park in Paris, here you still find a real Parisian atmosphere, far from the meddling international crowds of the city’s center. Climb on tip of the hill and overlook the north of Paris with the Montmartre hill right in front of you. The park has an almost enchanted feel, with its waterfall, from a natural spring deep underground, stream, lake and it’s steep cliff, topped with a ‘temple’ which can only be reached via a suspension bridge. A true oasis. Eat ■■ Aux Becs Fins, 44, boulevard de Menilmontant. Good, serious food for those that are looking for a meal with substance. With dishes like stuffed cabbage and calf ’s head, it’s a guarantee that you will leave full to the brim, but satified. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 148 drink ■■ La Cascade, 2, place Armand-Carrel. Quiet bar that serves its beers cold and has an extensive wine list. budgEt ■■ St Christopher’s Inns Paris Hostel, 68-74 Quai de la Seine, 75019, Paris . A brand new purpose built Hostel in Paris opened in 2008. Located on the Bassin de la Villette. mid-rangE ■■ Hotel Crimee, 188, rue de Crimée. Close to the Metro subway, the hotel boasts a quick and easy connection to downtown Paris. contact Paris/19ème arrondissement Created for michael arrington Paris, France 149 paris/20th arrondissement The 20th arrondissement of Paris lies to the east of the centre and represents an old working-class area now in rapid transformation. The main draw card here is the Père-Lachaise Cemetery, though there are some other items of interest to the traveller in this relatively gritty area. ’’by métro’’ Two main Metro stations on line 3: Gambetta and Père Lachaise. sEE ■■ Cimitière du Pére Lachaise, main entrance: boulevard de Ménilmontant (Métro: Père-Lachaise). Probably the most visited graveyard in any Western city, the vast Père-Lachaise features literally thousands of often elaborately-decorated graves separated by narrow lanes and avenues. The roll-call of famous burials includes: Chopin, Champollion, Sarah Bernhardt, Edith Piaf, Oscar Wilde, Delacroix, Bizet, Proust, Balzac, Colette, Molière and Jim Morrison of The Doors. Eat ■■ Lou Pascalou, 14 Rue des Panoyaux. Well hidden but worth seeking out, this unassuming restaurant serves happily inexpensive good food. drink d’Or, 102 bis rue de Bagnolet (Métro: Porte de Bangnolet). An old train station which has been transformed into a hip, popular night club. ■■ La Miroiterie, 88 rue Ménilmontant (Métro: Ménilmontant). A squat that offers interesting concerts and exhibitions. ■■ Flèche Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 150 There is also a free shop, where you can both take and bring second-hand clothes, books, toys, and more. mid-rangE ■■ Ermitage, 42, Bis rue de l’Ermitage. A small but intimate hotel that showcases some great views from its rooms. contact Paris/20ème arrondissement Paris {{outline} Created for michael arrington Paris, France 151 paris/La defense La Défense is the modern high-rise and office-tower district of Paris, located beyond the arrondissements of central Paris at the start of the western outskirts of the city, beyond the last Parisian loop of the river Seine. La Défense is the site of the Grande Arche, one of Paris’ most modern and imposing landmarks, situated at the western end of the grand axis formed by the Champs-Elysées, the Place de la Concorde and the Arc de Triomphe. La Defense, Paris by métro ■■ Grande Arche de la Défense (ligne 1) ■■ Esplanade de la Défense (ligne 1) by train La Défense can be reached on RER A, station Grande Arche de la Défense (note: Metro station is in zone 2, but RER station is in zone 3) sEE ■■ Skyscrapers in all shapes and forms. Driving - and walking - around the area can be visually stimulating, if you find pleasure in modern glass-and-steel construction. ■■ The Grande Arche de la Defense, a high-rise building that reminds more of a hollow cube than an arch per se, although it is said to represent a hypercube - has a viewing platform on its top. Entrance fee is &euro 7.50 this does include the varying small art exhibitions of more or less unknown artists on the upper floor as a “bonus”. Definitely recommended for the view. Lines tend to be short. For Shopping addicts there is a nearby shopping centre which when constructed was the largest shopping centre in France, has numerous big name stores, and is accessable from an entrance to the left of the “Grande Arche” or via the metro station Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 152 French phrasebook French is a Romance language originating in France but spoken in many other parts of the Europe including Luxembourg, Southern Belgium (Wallonia) and Western Switzerland. There are also small French speaking regions in northwestern alpine Italy. In North America, French is spoken in Quebec, New Brunswick, Ontario, other parts of Canada, and parts of the US state of Louisiana. The majority of Quebec is francophone, while French is a minority language in the other listed Candadian regions. Other countries speaking French include former French colonies in North Africa and West Africa; in Haiti, Martinique and Guadeloupe in the Caribbean; in French Guiana in South America; in Tahiti and numerous other islands in Oceania. It has long been the language of international diplomacy and communication, and although largely surplanted by English since World War II, it remains de rigueur (of obligatory requirement) for educated people in many societies around the world to have some level of basic French ability. It is also an official language of the UN and the EU. Francophonie can help you organize your travel plans if you’re looking for a French-speaking country or city. Pronunciation Like that of English - and unlike almost all the other Romance languages - French spelling is not necessarily phonetic. The same letter used in two different words can make two different sounds, and many letters are not pronounced at all. In general, it’s not impossible to sound out words, but suffice it to say that many experienced non-native French speakers -- and some native speakers -- mispronounce words often. One thing to note is that final consonants of a word are usually dropped: allez (go) is pronounced ahl-AY, not ahl-AYZ; tard (late) is pronounce tar, not tard. Also a final “e” is usually silent. But if the next word begins with a vowel, the consonant may be pronounced; this is called liaison. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 153 Stress is fairly even in French, but the stress almost always falls on the last syllable. For many French words, it is impossible to write something which, when pronounced as English, sounds like the French word. Use the transliteration as a guide to liaison and the French spelling to pronounce the vowels. voWEls Vowels in French can have accent marks, which generally have no noticeable impact on pronunciation. The only really important one is é, which is always pronounced “ay”, and changes the meaning of the word. ■■ a, ■■ e à, â : like “a” in “father” : in most cases a central neutral vowel (“schwa”) like “a” in “about”, sometimes not pronounced at all, sometimes like “é” or “è” ■■ é, è, ai, -er, -es, -ez : é is a bit like “ay” in “day”, è is more towards “e” in “set”, but many French people don’t even distinguish them, you can consider them equivalent ■■ i, î : like “ee” in “see” but shorter and tenser ■■ o, ô, au, eau : generally like “oa” in “boat” or “aw” in “law”, can be considered equivalent ■■ u, ù : like a very tight, frontal “oo” sound (purse your lips as if to say “oo” as in “soon” but try and say “ee”) - uu in transcriptions ■■ ou : like “oo” in “food”, but a pure vowel ■■ y : like “ee” in “see” ■■ eu : between “ew” in “dew” and “ur” in “burp” written eu in transcriptions sEmi-voWEls ■■ oi : like “wa” in “walk” ■■ oui : like “wee” in “week” ■■ ui : like “wee” in “week”, but with a French uu instead of the w ■■ &oelig : a bit like “eu” but more “open” Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 154 consonants ■■ b : like “b” in “bed” ■■ c : like “k” in “kill” (before “a”, “o”, and “u” or before a consonent), like “s” in “sun” (before “e”, “i”, and “y”) ■■ ç : like “s” in “sun” (this letter can only be written before “a” ,”o”, or “u”) ■■ d : like “d” in “death” (but a bit heavier than in English, and pronounced on the tongue) ■■ f : like “f ” in “fun” ■■ g : like “g” in “go” (before “a”, “o”, and “u” or before a consonent), like “g” in “sabotage” (before “e”, “i” and “y”). ■■ gu : like “g” in “goose” (before “e”, “i”, “y”) ■■ gn : like “ny” in “canyon”. This is particularly difficult (even for little French kids) when followed by oi, as in baignoire (beh-NYWAR) “bathtub”. ■■ h : usually silent, but may sometimes prevent a liaison with the former word ■■ j : like “g” in “sabotage” ■■ k : like “k” in “kill” ■■ l, ll : like “l” in “like” ■■ m : like “m” in “me” ■■ n : like “n” in “nurse” (but see Nasals below) ■■ p : like “p” in “push” (unaspirated like the t) ■■ q(u) : most of the time like “k” in “kill” (not like “qu” in “quick”) in some words like “qu” in “quick” (generally before Created for michael arrington Paris, France 155 an “a”) or the same but with a French u (generally before an “i”) ■■ r : gutteral kind of like coughing up a hairball ■■ s : like “s” in “sun” like “z” in “zero” (between two vowels) ■■ ch : like “sh” in “bush” sometimes like “k” in “kill” (in words of Greek origin mostly) ■■ t, th : like “t” in “take” (unaspirated, it should sound dry and on the tongue, like a spanish speaker) ■■ v : like “v” in “value” ■■ w : only in foreign words, mostly like “w” in “wise” and sometimes like “v” in “value” (in particular, “wagon” is “vagon” and “WC” is “VC”!) ■■ x : either ks (like “x” in “exit”) or gz ■■ z : like “z” in “zero” ■■ ph : like “f ” in “fun” nasals ■■ an, en, em : nasal a (not always pronounced as a nasal, especially if the n or m is doubled: emmental is pronounced as a normal “emm” sound) ■■ on : nasal o - distinguishing between this and “an” is tricky, it’s a deeper, more closed sound ■■ in, ain : nasal è ■■ un : nasal eu (almost always pronounced the same as ‘in’ ■■ oin : nasal “wè” (thus, coin is a nasalised “cwè”) diPhthongs ■■ ail : like “i” in “fight” ■■ ill : either literally, or like “y” in “three years”, with some exceptions (ville is veel, fille is fiy) Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 156 ExcEPtions ■■ When there is an accent mark on “e”, it prevents diphthongs. Letters should be pronounced separately, following the rule for the accented letter. Example: énergumène, (rowdy character), réunion (meeting). ■■ A diaeresis (“) may also be used to prevent diphthongs on “e”, “u” and “i”. Example: maïs (maize). ■■ In the combinations “gue” and “gui”, the “u” should not be pronounced, it is there only to force the prononciation of “g” as in “go”. If the “u” is pronounced, a diaeresis is added on the 2nd vowel : aiguë (sharp). ■■ In the combination “geo”, the “e” should not be pronounced, it is only there to force the prononciation of “g” as in “sabotage” (in the case the “e” should be pronounced, it is indicated with an accent mark as in géologie). Note you should try not to pronounce the “G” where “NG” is used in the prononciation hint. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 157 basics ■■ Hello. : Bonjour. (Bohn-ZHOO) ■■ Hello. (informal) : Salut. (sah-LUU) ■■ How are you? : Comment ça va ? ) ■■ Fine, thank you. : Bien, merci. (byahng, mehr-SEE) ■■ What is your name? : Comment vous appelez-vous ? (kuhMAWNG vooz ah-puhll-ay VOO?) ■■ What is your name? : (“informal”) Comment t’appelles-tu? (“kuh-MAWNG tah-puhll tooh?”) ■■ My name is ______ . : Je m’appelle ______ . (zhuh mah-PEHLL _____) ■■ Nice to meet you. : Enchanté(e). (ahng-chahng-TAY) ■■ Please. : S’il vous plaît. (seell voo PLEH) ■■ Thank you. : Merci. (mehr-SEE) ■■ You’re welcome. : De rien. (duh RYANG) (Quebecois: Bienvenue ) ■■ Yes. : Oui. (WEE) ■■ No. : Non. (NOHNG) ■■ Excuse me. (begging pardon) : Pardon. (pahr-DOHNG), Excusez-moi. (ehks-kuu-zay MWAH) ■■ I’m sorry. : ( Je suis) Désolé(e). (“zhuh swee day-zoh-LAY) Excusez-moi. (ehks-kuu-zay MWAH’’) ■■ What’s the time? : Quelle heure est-il ? (kel ehr e-til?) (Québéçois: Y est quelle heure? ■■ Goodbye : Au revoir. (oh RVWAHR) ■■ Goodbye (informal) : Salut. (sah-LUU) ■■ I can’t speak French frahng-SEH) ■■ Do you speak English? : Parlez-vous l’anglais ? (PAHR-lay VOOZ ahng-LEH?) ■■ Is there someone here who speaks English? : Est-ce qu’il y a quelqu’un ici qui parle l’anglais ? (ess keel-ee-AH kel-KUHNG ee-SEE kee PAHRL ahng-LEH ?) ■■ Help! : Au secours ! (os-KOOR!) ■■ Look out! : Attention ! (ah-TAHNG-see-ohng) ■■ Good morning. : Bonjour. (bohng ZHOO) ■■ Good evening. : Bonsoir. (bohng SWAHR) ■■ Good night. : Bonsoir. (bohng SWAHR) ■■ Good night (to sleep) : Bonne nuit. (buhn NWEE) ■■ I don’t understand. : Je ne comprends pas. (ZHUH nuh kohmPRAHNG pah) Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 158 ■■ Where is the toilet? : Où sont les toilettes ? (OOH sohng lay twa-LEHT?) ProblEms ■■ Leave me alone. : Laissez-moi tranquille ! (less-ay mwah trahng-KEEL!) ■■ Buzz off. : Dégage ! (Day-GAZH!) ■■ Don’t touch me! : Ne me touchez pas ! (nuh muh TOOSH-ay PAH!) ■■ I’m calling the police. : J’appelle la police. (zhah-PELL la pohLEESS) ■■ Police! : Police ! (POHL-ees) ■■ Stop! Thief! : Arrêtez ! Au voleur ! (ah-reh-TAY! OH voLEUR!) ■■ Help! : Au secours ! (OH suh-KOOR!) ■■ I need your help. : Aidez-moi, s’il vous plaît ! (ay-day MWAH, SEEL voo PLAY!) ■■ It’s an emergency. : C’est une urgence. (seh tuun uurZHAHNS) ■■ I’m lost. : Je suis perdu. (‘’ZHUH swee pehr-DUU’) ■■ I lost my bag. : J’ai perdu mon sac. (ZHAY pehr-DUU mong sak) ■■ I lost my wallet. : J’ai perdu mon portefeuille. (ZHAY PEHRduu mong POHR-tuh-fuhye) ■■ I’m sick. : Je suis malade. (ZHUH swee MAU-laud) ■■ I’ve been injured. : Je suis blessé. (zhuh swee bless-AY) ■■ I need a doctor. : J’ai besoin d’un médecin. (ZHAY bez-WANG dun mayd-SANG) ■■ Can I use your phone? : Puis-je utiliser votre téléphone ? (Pwee ZHUH UUT-ee-lee-zay vOt-ruh te-LAY-phun) Created for michael arrington Paris, France 159 numbErs ■■ 1 : un (on) ■■ 2 : deux (deu) ■■ 3 : trois (twa) ■■ 4 : quatre (katr) ■■ 5 : cinq (sank) ■■ 6 : six (seece) ■■ 7 : sept (set) ■■ 8 : huit (wheat) ■■ 9 : neuf (neuf ) ■■ 10 : dix (deece) ■■ 11 : onze (ohnz) ■■ 12 : douze (dooz) ■■ 13 : treize (trayz) ■■ 14 : quatorze (kat-ORZ) ■■ 15 : quinze (cans) ■■ 16 : seize (sayz) ■■ 17 : dix-sept (dee-SET) ■■ 18 : dix-huit (dee-ZWEET) ■■ 19 : dix-neuf (dee-ZNEUF) ■■ 20 : vingt (vang) ■■ 21 : vingt-et-un (vang-tay-UNG) ■■ 22 : vingt-deux (vang-DEU) ■■ 23 : vingt-trois (vang-TWA) ■■ 30 : trente (trongt) ■■ 40 : quarante (kar-AHNGT) ■■ 50 : cinquante (sank-AHNGT) ■■ 60 : soixante (swah-SAHNGT) ■■ 70 : soixante-dix (swah-sahngt-DEE) or septante (set-AHNGT) in Belgium and Switzerland ■■ 80 : quatre-vingt (katr-VANG) or huitante (wee-TAHNGT) in Belgium and Switzerland (except Geneva) or octante (octTAHNGT) in Switzerland ■■ 90 : quatre-vingt-dix (katr-vang-DEE) or nonante (nohNAHNGT) in Belgium and Switzerland ■■ 100 : cent (sahng) ■■ 200 : deux cent (deu sahng) ■■ 300 : trois cent (trwa sahng) ■■ 1000 : mille (meel) ■■ 2000 : deux mille (deu meel) Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 160 ■■ 1,000,000 ■■ number : un million (ung mee-LYOHNG) _____ (train, bus, etc.) : numéro _____ (nuu-may-ROH) ■■ half : demi (deh-MEE), moitié (mwah-tee-AY) ■■ less : moins (mwang) ■■ more : plus (pluu) timE ■■ now : maintenant (mang-NAHNG) ■■ later : plus tard (ploo TAHR) ■■ before : avant (AH-vahng) ■■ after : après (Ah-PRAY) ■■ morning : le matin (luh mat-TANG) ■■ in the morning : dans la matinée (dahn lah mah-TEEN-ay) ■■ afternoon : l’après-midi (lah-PRAY-mee-dee) ■■ evening : le soir (luh SWAH) ■■ in the evening: dans la soirée (dahng la SWAH-ray) ■■ night : la nuit (lah nwee) clock timE (Note on time: the French use the 24 hour clock so specifying morning or afternoon is not necessary unless referring to afternoon times with the numbers 1-11) o’clock AM : une heure du matin (ewn er dew ma-TAN) o’clock AM : deux heures du matin (duz er dew maTAN) ■■ noon : midi (mee-DEE) ■■ one o’clock PM, 13 une heure de l’après-midi (ewn er duh la-pre-mee-DEE) : treize heures ■■ two o’clock PM, 14 deux heures de l’après-midi (duz er duh la-pre-mee-DEE) : quatorze heures ■■ six o’clock PM, 18 six heures du soir (sees er dew SWAR) : dix-huit heures ■■ quarter to seven, 18 sept heures moins le quart : dix-huit heures quarante-cinq ■■ quarter past seven, 19 sept heures et quart : dix-neuf heures quinze ■■ two ■■ one Created for michael arrington Paris, France 161 ■■ half past seven, 19 sept heures et demi : dix-neuf heures trente ■■ midnight : minuit (mee-NWEE) duration minute(s) : _____ minute(s) (mee-NUUT) hour(s) : _____ heure(s) (eur) ■■ _____ day(s) : _____ jour(s) (zhoor) ■■ _____ week(s) : _____ semaine(s) (smen) ■■ _____ month(s) : _____ mois (mwa) ■■ _____ year(s) : _____ an(s) (ahng), année(s) (ah-NAY) ■■ daily : quotidienne (ko-ti-dyen) ■■ weekly : hebdomadaire (eb-doh-ma-DAYR) ■■ monthly : mensuel (mang-suu-ELL) ■■ yearly : annuel (an-uu-ELL) ■■ _____ ■■ _____ days ■■ today : aujourd’hui (aw-zhoor-DWEE) : hier (YEHR) ■■ tomorrow : demain (duh-MANG) ■■ this week : cette semaine (set SMEN) ■■ last week : la semaine dernière (lah SMEN dehr-NYEHR) ■■ next week : la semaine prochaine (lah SMEN proh-SHEN) ■■ Sunday : dimanche (dee-MAHNSH) ■■ Monday : lundi (luhn-DEE) ■■ Tuesday : mardi (mahr-DEE) ■■ Wednesday : mercredi (mehr-kruh-DEE) ■■ Thursday : jeudi ( juh-DEE) ■■ Friday : vendredi (vahn-druh-DEE) ■■ Saturday : samedi (sahm-DEE) ■■ yesterday Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 162 colors ■■ black : noir/noire (nwahr) ■■ white : blanc/blanche (blahng/blahnsh) ■■ gray : gris/grise (gree/greez) ■■ red : rouge (roozh) ■■ blue : bleu/bleue (bluh) ■■ yellow : jaune (zhawn) ■■ green : vert/verte (vehr/vehrt) ■■ orange : orange (oh-RAHNZH) ■■ purple : violet/violette (vee-oh-LEH/vee-oh-LET) ■■ brown : brun/brune (bruh/bruhn) ■■ green : vert (verre) bus and train much is a ticket to _____? : Combien coûte le billet pour _____ ? (kom-BYAN koot luh bee-LAY poor) ■■ One ticket to _____, please. : Un billet pour _____, je vous prie. (ung bee-LAY poor ____ zhe voo PREE) ■■ Where does this train/bus go? : Où va ce train/bus ? (oo va suh trang/buus?) ■■ Where is the train/bus to _____? : Où est le train/bus pour _____ ? (oo eh luh trang/buus poor ____) ■■ Does this train/bus stop in _____? : Ce train/bus s’arrête-t-il à _____ ? (suh trang/buus sah-ret-TEEL ah _____) ■■ When does the train/bus for _____ leave? : Quand part le train/ bus pour _____ ? (kahng par luh trang/buus poor _____) ■■ When will this train/bus arrive in _____? : Quand ce train/bus arrivera-t-il à _____ ? (kahng suh trang/buus ah-reev-rah-TEEL ah _____) ■■ the/this shuttle : la/cette navette (lah/set nah-VET) (also means a tatting shuttle) ■■ a one-way ticket: un aller simple ■■ a round trip ticket: un aller-retour ■■ How Created for michael arrington Paris, France 163 dirEctions ■■ Where ■■ ...the is the _____? : Où se trouve _____ ? (oo stroov _____) train station? : ...la gare ? (lah gahr?) ■■ ...the bus station? : ...la gare routière ? (lah gahr rooTYEHR?) ■■ ...the airport? : ... l’aéroport ? (lah-ay-roh-POR?) ■■ ...the American/Canadian/Australian/British consulate? : ...l’ambassade américaine/canadienne/australienne/ anglaise ? (lahm-bah-SAHD a-may-ree-KEN/ka-na-DYEN/ostrah-lee-EN/ahn-GLEZ) taxi : Taxi ! (tahk-SEE!) me to _____, please. : Déposez-moi à _____, je vous prie. (DAY-poh-zay-MWAH ah _____, zhuh voo PREE) ■■ How much does it cost to get to _____? : Combien cela coûtet-il d’aller à _____ ? (kahm-BYENG suh-LA koo-TEEL dah-LAY ah _____?) ■■ Take me there, please. : Amenez-moi là, je vous prie. (ahMEHN-ay-mwah LAH, zhuh voo PREE) ■■ Take ■■ Taxi! Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 164 monEy ■■ Do you accept American/Australian/Canadian dollars? : Acceptez-vous les dollars américains/australiens/canadiens ? (ahk-sep-tay VOO leh doh-LAHR ah-may-ree-KANG/ aws-trah-LYAHNG/kah-nah-DYAHNG?) ■■ Do you accept British pounds? : Acceptez-vous les livres Sterling ? (ahk-sep-tay VOO leh leevr stehr-LING?) ■■ Do you accept credit cards? : Acceptez-vous les cartes de crédit ? (ahk-sep-tay VOO leh kahrt duh kray-DEE?) ■■ Can you change money for me? : Pouvez-vous me faire le change ? (poo-vay-VOO muh fehr luh SHAHNZH?) ■■ Where can I get money changed? : Où peux-je faire le change ? (oo PWEEZH fehr luh SHAHNZH?) ■■ Can you change a traveler’s check for me? : Pouvez-vous me faire le change sur un traveler’s chèque ? (poo-vayVOO muh fehr luh SHAHNZH suur ung trahv-leurz SHECK?) ■■ Where can I get a traveler’s check changed? : Où puis-je changer un traveler’s chèque ? (oo PWEEZH shahngZHAY ung trahv-leurz SHECK?) ■■ What is the exchange rate? : Quel est le taux de change ? (KELL eh luh TAW duh SHAHNZH?) ■■ Where is an automatic teller machine (ATM)? : Où puis-je trouver un distributeur de billets ? (oo PWEEZH troo-VAY ung dees-tree-buu-TEUR duh bee-YAY?) Created for michael arrington Paris, France 165 Eating ■■ fixed-price meal : menu (muh-NUU) ■■ à la carte : à la carte (ah lah KAHRT) ■■ breakfast : France déjeuner (day-zheu-NAY) ■■ lunch : France: déjeuner (day-zheu-NAY) Belgium/Canada/ Nord-Pas-de-Calais (north of France): dîner (dee-NAY) ■■ tea (meal) : thé (tay) ■■ supper : souper (soo-PAY) ■■ I want _____. : Je voudrais _____. (zhuh voo-DREH _____) ■■ I want a dish containing _____. : Je voudrais un plat avec _____. (zhuh voo-DREH ung plah ah-VEK _____) ■■ chicken : du poulet (duu poo-LEH) ■■ beef : du boeuf (duu BUFF) ■■ deer : du cerf (dü SEHR) ■■ fish : du poisson (duu pwa-SONG) ■■ salmon : du saumon (duu saw-MONG) ■■ tuna : du thon (duu TONG) ■■ whiting : du merlan (duu mehr-LANG) ■■ cod : de la morue (duh lah moh-RUU) ■■ seafood : des fruits de mer (deh frwee duh MEHR) ■■ dulse : de la dulse (duh lah DUULS) ■■ lobster : du homard (duu oh-MAR) ■■ clams : des palourdes (deh pah-LOORD) ■■ oysters : des huîtres (dez WEETR) ■■ mussels : des moules (deh MOOL) ■■ snails : des escargots (dez es-car-GOH) ■■ frogs : des grenouilles (deh gruh-NOOEY) ■■ ham : du jambon (duu zhahng-BONG) ■■ pork : du porc/cochon (dü POHR/dü coh-SHONG). cochon is much less formal. ■■ boar : du sanglier (dü sahng-GLYAY) ■■ sausage : des saucisses (deh saw-SEESS) ■■ cheese : du fromage (duu froh-MAHZH) ■■ eggs : des oeufs (dehz UH) ■■ one egg : un oeuf (un UF) ■■ salad : une salade (uun sah-LAHD) ■■ (fresh) vegetables : des légumes (frais) (deh lay-guum FREH) ■■ (fresh) fruit : des fruits (frais) (frwee (freh)) ■■ bread : du pain (pang) ■■ toast : rôtis (roh-TEE) Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 166 : café (kah-FAY) (drink) : thé (tay) ■■ juice : jus (zhuu) ■■ (bubbly) water : eau gazeuse (oh gah-ZUHZ) ■■ water : eau (oh) ■■ beer : bière (byehr) ■■ red/white wine : vin rouge/blanc (vang roozh/blahng) ■■ May I have some _____? : Puis-je avoir du _____ ? (pweezh ahVWAHR duu) ■■ salt : sel (sel) ■■ black pepper : poivre (pwavr) ■■ butter : beurre (bur) ■■ Excuse me, waiter? (getting attention of server, note “garçon” is offensive and should be avoided) : S’il vous plaît, monsieur/ madame ? (seell voo PLEH muh syuh/madam) ■■ I’m finished. : J’ai fini. (zhay feenee) ■■ It was delicious. : C’était délicieux. (setay delisyuh) ■■ Please clear the plates. : vous pouvez débarrasser la table ? (voo poovay debahrasey lah tahbl) ■■ The check, please. : L’addition s’il vous plait. (lah dee syohng seel voo play) ■■ tea ■■ coffee Created for michael arrington Paris, France 167 bars ■■ Do you serve alcohol? : Servez-vous des boissons alcoolisées ? (...) ■■ Is there table service? : Est-ce que vous servez à la table ? (Ess-ser ker voo ser-VAY ah lah TAHBL?) ■■ A beer/two beers, please. : Une bière/deux bières, s’il vous plait. (...) ■■ A glass of red/white wine, please. : Un verre de vin rouge/ blanc, s’il vous plait. (...) ■■ A quarter liter of beer, please : Un demi, s’il-vous-plaît. (...) ■■ A pint, please. : Une pinte, s’il vous plait. (...) ■■ A bottle, please. : Une bouteille, s’il vous plait. (...) ■■ _____ (hard liquor) and _____ (mixer), please. : _____ et _____, s’il vous plait. (...) ■■ whiskey : whisky (...) ■■ vodka : vodka (...) ■■ rum : rhum (...) ■■ water : de l’eau (...) ■■ club soda : soda (...) ■■ tonic water : Schweppes (...) ■■ orange juice : jus d’orange (...) ■■ Coke (soda) : Coca (...) ■■ Do you have any bar snacks? : Est-ce que vous avez des chips ou des cacahuètes ? Est-ce que vous avez des trucs à grignoter ? (...) ■■ One more, please. : Encore un/une autre, s’il vous plait. (...) ■■ Another round, please. : Un autre pour la table, s’il vous plait. (...) ■■ When is closing time? : À quelle heure fermez-vous ? (...) Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 168 shoPPing ■■ Do you have this in my size? : Avez-vous ceci dans ma taille ? (AH-veh-VOO say-SEE dan sma THAI) ■■ How much is this? : Combien ça coûte ? (COMM-bee-yen SAH coot) ■■ That’s too expensive. : C’est trop cher. (say-TRO-shair) ■■ Would you take _____? : Pourriez-vous accepter _____ ? (pooryay-VOOZ ahk-sep-TAY) ■■ expensive : cher (shehr) ■■ cheap : bon marché (bong mar-SHAY) (not declined. Elles sont bon marché.) ■■ I can’t afford it. : Je n’ai pas les moyens. (zhe nay pah leh mwah-YAHNG) ■■ I don’t want it. : Je n’en veux pas. (zhe nahng veu pah) ■■ You’re cheating me. : Vous essayez de me faire avoir. (vooz ess-ey-EY duh muh fehr ah-VWAHR) ■■ I’m not interested. : Je ne suis pas intéressé. (zhen swee pahzann-tay-ress-SAY) ■■ OK, I’ll take it. : D’accord, je le/la prends. (dah-kor zhe luh/ lah prahn) ■■ Can I have a bag? : Pourrais-je avoir un sac ? (poo-REHZH ahVWAR ung sahk) ■■ Do you ship (overseas)? : Livrez-vous (outre-mer/à l’étranger) ? (leev-ray-VOO ootr-MEHR/ah lay-trahn-ZHAY) ■■ I need... : J’ai besoin... (zhay buh-ZWANG) ■■ ...toothpaste. : ...de la dentifrice. (duh lah dahn-tee-FREESS) ■■ ...a toothbrush. : ...d’une brosse à dents. (duun bross ah DAHNG) ■■ ...tampons. : ...des tampons. (day tahm-PONG) ■■ ...soap. : ...du savon. (duu sah-VONG) ■■ ...shampoo. : ...du shampooing. (duu shahm-PWANG) ■■ ...pain reliever. (e.g., aspirin or ibuprofen) : ...d’un analgésique (aspirine, ibuprofène). (dun ah-nal-zhay-ZEEK (ahspee-REEN/ee-buu-proh-FEN)) ■■ ...cold medicine. : ...d’un médicament pour le rhume. (dung may-dee-kah-MAHNG poor luh RUUM) ■■ ...stomach medicine. : ...d’un remède pour l’estomac. (dung ray-MED poor less-toh-MAHK) ■■ ...a razor. : ...d’un rasoir. (dung rah-ZWAR) ■■ ...batteries. : ...des piles. (day PEEL) Created for michael arrington Paris, France 169 umbrella. (rain) : ...d’un parapluie. (...) umbrella. (sun) : ...d’une ombrelle. (...) ■■ ...sunblock lotion. : ...de la crème solaire. (...) ■■ ...a postcard. : ...d’une carte postale. (...) ■■ ...postage stamps. : ...des timbres. (...) ■■ ...writing paper. : ...du papier à lettres. (...) ■■ ...a pen. : ...d’un stylo. (...) ■■ ...English-language books. : ...des livres en anglais. (...) ■■ ...English-language magazines. : ...des revues en anglais. (...) ■■ ...an English-language newspaper. : ...d’un journal en anglais. (...) ■■ ...a French-English dictionary. : ...d’un dictionnaire françaisanglais. (...) ■■ ...an ■■ ...an authority ■■ I haven’t done anything wrong. : Je n’ai rien fait de mal. (...) ■■ It was a misunderstanding. : C’est une erreur. (...) ■■ Where are you taking me? : Où m’emmenez-vous ? (...) ■■ Am I under arrest? : Suis-je en état d’arrestation ? (...) ■■ I am an American/Australian/British/Canadian citizen. (m) : Je suis citoyen américain/australien/anglais/canadien. (zhe swee see-twa-YAHN a-may-ree-CAN/os-trah-lee-AHN/ahnGLEH/ka-na-DYAN) ■■ I am an American/Australian/British/Canadian citizen. (f ) : Je suis citoyenne américaine/australienne/anglaise/cana- Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 170 dienne. (zhe swee see-twa-YEN a-may-ree-KEN/os-trah-leeEN/ahn-GLEZ/ka-na-DYEN) ■■ I want to talk to the American/Australian/British/Canadian embassy/consulate. : Je dois parler à l’ambassade/au consulat américain/australien/anglais/canadien. (...) ■■ I want to talk to a lawyer. : Je voudrais parler à un avocat. (...) ■■ Can I just pay a fine now? : Pourrais-je simplement payer une amende ? (poo-RAYZH sampl-MANG pay-AY yn ah-MAHND) ■■ How do you say _____? : Comment dit-on _____ ? (koh-mahn deeTONG _____ ?) ■■ What is this/that called? : Comment appelle-t-on ceci/ça ? (koh-mahnt ah-pehl-TONG suh-SEE/SAH?) ■■ Is this a guillotine? : Est-ce que c’est une guillotine ? (ess-kehsehtyn-gee-yo-teen?) Sprachführer Französisch Frasario francese Francia szószedet ???????? Created for michael arrington Paris, France 171 events tuEsday, JunE 17, 2008 1931, lEs étrangErs au tEmPs dE l’ExPosition colonialE L’exposition « 1931 » évoque la situation des immigrants étrangers et coloniaux en France métropolitaine, en 1931. Dans cette période de l’entre-deux guerres, deux images contrastées s’imposent : la glorification de l’Empire colonial français et de sa « mission civilisatrice » avec l’exposition coloniale du bois de Vincennes d’une part ; la présence de 3 millions d’étrangers en France qui en font le premier pays d’immigration au monde, d’autre part. Le visiteur est immergé dans « l’air du temps » pour questionner les liens, ou non-liens, entre étrangers et coloniaux en France, en 1931. À la manière d’un théâtre, il est invité à découvrir l’envers du décor de l’exposition coloniale. Il pénètre dans les coulisses de l’exposition, pour découvrir une réalité sociale française bien éloignée du spectacle qui se donne à voir au bois de Vincennes. Moyens d’accès : M° Porte dorée / bus 46 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: CITÉ NATIONALE DE L’HISTOIRE DE L’IMMIGRATION ADDRESS: 293 avenue Daumesnil Palais de la Porte DorÉ e, Paris ci-gisEnt lEs hommEs célèbrEs Réouverture des catacombes. Véritable labyrinthe souterrain, les Catacombes abritent la mémoire des Parisiens au fil des siècles. L’exposition réveille le souvenir des nombreuses personnalités de la vie artistique et intellectuelle de Paris tels que Girardon, La Fontaine ou Jules Hardouin-Mansart dont les restes furent transférés en même temps que ceux de 6 millions de Parisiens au fur et à mesure de la fermeture des cimetières de la capitale. Moyens d’accès : Bus (lignes 38 - 68) Métro / RER (Station Métro : Denfert-Rocherau. RER B station Denfert-Rochereau) Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 172 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: CATACOMBES DE PARIS ADDRESS: 1 avenue du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, Paris biodivErsités, nos viEs sont liéEs Moyens d’accès : Bus (24. 57. 61. 63. 65. 67. 89. 91.) Métro / RER (Gare d’Austerlitz. Jussieu. Monge. Censier.) DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉUM NATIONAL D’HISTOIRE NATURELLE lE tErmitE Et la Fourmi - dEux sociétés , dEux mondEs Réduit à la taille d’un insecte, immergez-vous dans l’univers fascinant des termites et des fourmis. Entrez dans une termitière géante avec des insectes de deux mètres de haut et suivez l’enquête de l’inspecteur Karapace sur la disparition mystérieuse du roi des termites. Participez ensuite à des exposés, des ateliers, observez une dizaine de sociétés de fourmis et de termites vivants pour découvrir l’habitat, l’organisation, l’alimentation, et le rôle de ces insectes dans l’écosystème et la biodiversité de notre planète. Le termite et la fourmi, plus qu’une exposition, une expérience unique ! Date / lieu / horaire : Du 14/2/2008 au 31/8/2008 Horaires : du mardi au samedi de 9h30 à 18h, le dimanche et jours fériés de 10h à 19h PALAIS DE LA DÉCOUVERTE avenue Franklin Roosevelt PARIS 08 75008 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: PALAIS DE LA DÉCOUVERTE volcans, séismEs 300 m² d’expériences interactives ainsi qu’une plateforme de simulation sismique pour découvrir les mécanismes fondamentaux du fonctionnement interne de la planète. Date / lieu / horaire : Du 10/10/2007 au 24/8/2008 Created for michael arrington Paris, France 173 Horaires : du mardi au samedi de 9h30 à 18h, les dimanches et jours fériés de 10h à 19h PALAIS DE LA DÉCOUVERTE avenue Franklin Roosevelt PARIS 08 75008 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: PALAIS DE LA DÉCOUVERTE Point dE contact “ ilE dE kEmEnEZ “ Expérience de reconquête et d’autonomie énergétique d’une île bretonne Date / lieu / horaire : Du 19/3/2008 au 15/9/2008 Horaires : du mardi au samedi de 9h30 à 18h, les dimanches et jours fériés de 10h à 19h PALAIS DE LA DÉCOUVERTE avenue Franklin Roosevelt PARIS 08 75008 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: PALAIS DE LA DÉCOUVERTE chEmins d’oriEnts, carnEts dE voyagE du PEintrE JaPonais hirayama ikuo sur la routE dE la soiE Date / lieu / horaire : Du 21/5/2008 au 28/6/2008 Horaires : tous les jours de 10h à 18h ESPACE DES ARTS MITSUKOSHI-ETOILE 3 rue de Tilsitt PARIS 08 75008 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: ESPACE DES ARTS MITSUKOSHI-ETOILE ADDRESS: 3 rue de Tilsitt, Paris FlorilègE, 30 documEnts qui ont Fait la FrancE Objet unique, objet historique, objet politique, le document d’archives est aussi parfois un objet d’art ; toujours, il est créateur d’émotion. La qualité des pièces présentées à l’occasion de l’exposition permet d’embrasser toutes ces dimensions : merveille des bulles d’or impériales, chatoiement Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 174 des registres enluminés, qualité des signatures qui ressuscitent leurs auteurs illustres, solennité d’un texte constitutionnel ou d’un édit, sensibilité d’une écriture et de ses repentirs ou de ses tressaillements dus à l’âge (testament de Louis XIV), à la fièvre du moment (Serment du Jeu de Paume) ou à la crainte de braver l’interdit (dernière lettre de Marie-Antoinette) Les Archives, lieux de mémoire, lieux d’écriture de l’Histoire, sont d’abord lieux de vie. Moyens d’accès : Bus (29.75.58.70.72.74.69.96.67.76.) Métro / RER (Hôtel de ville, Rambuteau, Saint-Paul, Châtelet-lesHalles.) DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉE DE L’HISTOIRE DE FRANCE ADDRESS: 60 rue des Francs-Bourgeois HÔ tel de Soubise, Paris mariE-antoinEttE De la dauphine adulée à “l’étrangère” capricieuse et à la reine honnie, les caricatures de Marie-Antoinette sont nombreuses. Les facettes de son personnage ont toujours fait l’objet de représentations fantasmées. A travers 300 oeuvres venues de toute l’Europe, dont des ensembles exceptionnels de peintures (Vigée Le Brun), de sculptures (Lemoyne, Boizot et Lecomte), et d’objets d’art (Carlin, Riesener, Weisweiler), l’exposition présente tous les aspects de la personnalité de Marie-Antoinette (éducation, arts, politique, Histoire ...) Coproduite par la Rmn et l’Etablissement public du musée et du domaine national de Versailles. Date / lieu / horaire : Du 15/3/2008 au 30/6/2008 Horaires : tous les jours de 10h à 22h (20h le jeudi) GALERIES NATIONALES DU GRAND PALAIS Entrée square Jean Perrin PARIS 08 75008 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: GALERIES NATIONALES DU GRAND PALAIS ADDRESS: 3 avenue du GÉ nÉ ral Eisenhower, Paris Created for michael arrington Paris, France 175 hommagE à gEorgEs rouault Date / lieu / horaire : Du 16/4/2008 au 4/7/2008 Jours d’ouverture : samedi, dimanche Horaires : 10h - 12h30 et 14h - 18h30 du lundi au vendredi GALERIE SCHMIT 396 rue Saint-Honoré PARIS 01 75001 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: FONDATION GEORGES ROUAULT ADDRESS: 2 rue Emile Gilbert, Paris théoPhilE gautiEr Et lE caPitainE FracassE à la maison dE balZac On connaît en Théophile Gautier (1811-1872) le poète, le romancier, l’auteur de ballets ou le critique d’art, on sait moins qu’il a noué dès 1835 d’étroites relations, tant amicales que professionnelles, avec Honoré de Balzac. En 1836 et 1837, il rédige dix-neuf textes pour La Chronique de Paris, dirigée par Balzac, parmi lesquels La Morte amoureuse ou Un tour en Belgique. Lors du séjour de Balzac à Passy entre 1840 et 1847, Gautier fait partie des rares personnes admises dans « la maison qu’il habitait, située sur une pente abrupte, offrait une disposition architecturale assez singulière. On y entrait un peu comme le vin entre dans les bouteilles. Il fallait descendre trois étages pour arriver au premier. La porte d’entrée, du côté de la rue, s’ouvrait presque comme une mansarde. » (Écrivains et artistes romantiques). Annoncé en 1836 mais publié seulement entre décembre 1861 et juin 1863 dans la Revue nationale et étrangère, Le Capitaine Fracasse est illustré dès 1866 par Gustave Doré, en collaboration avec l’auteur, et fait l’objet de nombreuses adaptations théâtrales avant que le cinéma ne s’en empare. Une sélection d’éditions illustrées, d’affiches, de maquettes de costumes, de photographies, de revues de cinéma ou de bandes dessinées, atteste la constante popularité de ce roman d’aventure. Moyens d’accès : M° Passy-La Muette / RER C Boulainvilliers, Kennedy- Radio-France /bus 32 DATE: Jun 17 Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 176 VENUE: MAISON DE BALZAC ADDRESS: 47 rue Raynouard, Paris gErmainE tillion, EthnologuE Et résistantE Germaine Tillion est décédée le samedi 19 avril 2008. Elle aurait eu 101 ans le 30 mai. Le Musée de l’Homme rend hommage à cette femme d’exception qui a consacré sa vie à défendre la vérité et la justice. L’exposition présente l’itinéraire et l’engagement de cette ethnologue et résistante qui n’a cessé d’étudier et d’analyser le monde qui l’entourait et de combattre l’enfermement, l’esclavage, la pauvreté, la torture, la peine de mort... Moyens d’accès : M°, RER Trocadéro / Bus 22, 30, 63, 72, 82 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉE DE L’HOMME ADDRESS: 17 place du TrocadÉ ro Palais de Chaillot, Paris PEtEr doig - rétrosPEctivE Cette exposition présente la première rétrospective en France de Peter Doig, figure incontournable de la scène artistique britannique. Composée d’une centaine d’½uvres -peintures et dessins- regroupées par thèmes, elle retrace le parcours de l’artiste depuis le début des années quatre-vingt dix à aujourd’hui. Ses peintures envoûtantes dépeignent des visions de paysages issues de souvenirs oniriques. Moyens d’accès : Parc de stationnement (payant devant le musée) Bus (lignes, 32 ;42; 63; 72; 80 ; 92.) Métro / RER (RER ligneC arrêt Pont de l’Alma. Station de métro Alma ou Iéna) DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉE D’ART MODERNE DE LA VILLE DE PARIS ADDRESS: 11 avenue du PrÉ sident Wilson, Paris Created for michael arrington Paris, France 177 vlaminck, l’instinct FauvE A l’occasion du 50e anniversaire de la mort de Maurice de Vlaminck (1876-1958), le Musée du Luxembourg présente les périodes fauve et cézannienne de ce peintre précurseur. Date / lieu / horaire : Du 20/2/2008 au 20/7/2008 Horaires : lundi, vendredi, samedi de 10h30 à 22h - mardi, mercredi, jeudi de 10h30 à 19h - dimanche de 9h à 19h DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉE DU LUXEMBOURG ADDRESS: 19 rue de Vaugirard, Paris Figuration narrativE Paris, 1960-1972 Second volet de la présentation de la scène artistique française des années 60 et 70 (après le Nouveau Réalisme en 2007), l’exposition retrace un mouvement animé par des artistes d’origines diverses : Adami, Fromanger, Klasen, Monory, Rancillac, Stampfli, Télémaque ... Entre 1960 et 1972, tous placent la société et ses images au coeur de leurs oeuvres, en s’inspirant de la photo, du cinéma, de la BD, de la littérature populaire, ou même de la peinture classique. Détournant le sens de ces représentations, ils révèlent d’autres significations, suggèrent d’autres narrations, marquent leurs implications politiques. En collaboration avec la Rmn, le Centre Georges Pompidou et l’IVAM (Valence). Date / lieu / horaire : Du 16/4/2008 au 13/7/2008 Horaires : tous les jours sauf mardi de 10h à 20h (22h le mercredi) Entrée Clémenceau GALERIES NATIONALES DU GRAND PALAIS Entrée square Jean Perrin PARIS 08 75008 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: GALERIES NATIONALES DU GRAND PALAIS ADDRESS: 3 avenue du GÉ nÉ ral Eisenhower, Paris Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 178 EntrE Jaurès Et matissE : marcEl sEmbat Et gEorgEttE aguttE à la croiséE dEs avant-gardEs Les Archives se proposent de tirer de l’oubli injuste, dans lequel ils ont peu à peu plongé, ces deux personnages étonnants, l’un avocat, journaliste, franc-maçon, député socialiste, membre fondateur de la SFIO, ministre des Travaux publics du gouvernement d’Union sacrée au début de la première guerre mondiale, orateur redouté, intellectuel éclectique et insatisfait de lui-même, l’autre femme peintre discrète, vivant dans l’ombre du grand homme, l’ouvrant aux tendances les plus modernes en art, entretenant une féconde amitié avec Matisse et de nombreux peintres fauves. Pour eux, changer le monde et changer l’art se confondent. Moyens d’accès : Bus (29.75.58.70.72.74.69.96.67.76.) Métro / RER (Hôtel de ville, Rambuteau, Saint-Paul, Châtelet-lesHalles.) DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉE DE L’HISTOIRE DE FRANCE ADDRESS: 60 rue des Francs-Bourgeois HÔ tel de Soubise, Paris british outsidEr art les grandes collections d’art brut britanniques Date / lieu / horaire : Du 24/3/2008 au 1/8/2008 Horaires : tous les jours de 10h à 18h HALLE SAINT-PIERRE 2 rue Ronsard PARIS 18 75018 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: HALLE SAINT-PIERRE ADDRESS: 2 rue Ronsard, Paris Created for michael arrington Paris, France 179 hokusai “ l’aFFolé dE son art “ d’ Edmond goncourt à norbErt laganE Le fonds d’art graphique japonais du musée Guimet conserve plus d’une centaine d’½uvres dues au pinceau de Katsushika Hokusai (1760-1849), le « vieil homme fou de peinture » comme il se surnomma lui-même dans les dernières années de son existence : estampes polychromes aussi célèbres que « la grande vague » ou le « Fuji rouge » (issues de la série des Trente-six Vues du Mont Fuji), mais aussi rares dessins préparatoires, croquis et études témoignant de façon éclatante, bien que moins connus du public français, de l’intense créativité graphique de cet artiste ; plusieurs peintures, dont certaines entrées récemment au musée ou d’autres encore inédites, viennent par ailleurs illustrer un versant moins divulgué de l’activité d’Hokusai, et donnèrent lieu parfois à de récentes découvertes. Ainsi le Dragon parmi les nuages, kakemono issu de la donation Norbert Lagane (2001), s’avère-t-il former une paire avec le célèbre Tigre sous la pluie du musée Ôta à Tokyo. L’exposition, qui se propose de présenter ce fonds dans toute sa diversité, pose également en filigrane deux questions : l’histoire de la constitution des collections ainsi que celle de la fortune critique que connut le maître en France dès la fin du XIXe siècle. Le regard critique sur l’oeuvre d’Hokusai s’est affiné, a parfois procédé à des revirements ou à des découvertes essentielles. Par l’entremise des oeuvres conservées au musée, et l’évocation des grands collectionneurs et historiens d’art qui au long du XXe siècle en France contribuèrent par leurs études comme par leurs partis pris à l’élaboration du discours sur Hokusai, c’est ce cheminement du regard qui sera suggéré. Moyens d’accès : Bus (Lignes 63, 82, 32, 72) Métro / RER (Métro Iéna ou Boissière) DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉE NATIONAL DES ARTS ASIATIQUES GUIMET ADDRESS: 6 place d IÉ na, Paris charlEs laPicquE (1898 - 1988), unE rétrosPEctivE Pour le 110ème anniversaire de la naissance du peintre et le 20ème anniversaire de sa mort, l’exposition souhaite faire découvrir ou redécouvrir un peintre reconnu de son vivant Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 180 comme un artiste majeur mais aujourd’hui injustement oublié. Breton le jugeait comme l’un des dix plus importants de l’art occidental et Restany comme l’un de cinq maîtres de la Peinture française. Moyens d’accès : M° Montparnasse Bienvenue, Falguière, Pasteur DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉE DE LA POSTE ADDRESS: 34 boulevard de Vaugirard, Paris ElogE du dEssin 20 artistes contemporains Date / lieu / horaire : Du 24/3/2008 au 29/8/2008 Horaires : tous les jours de 10h à 18h HALLE SAINT-PIERRE 2 rue Ronsard PARIS 18 75018 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: HALLE SAINT-PIERRE ADDRESS: 2 rue Ronsard, Paris alain séchas : rêvE brisé Le musée poursuit son programme d’expositions consacrées à la création contemporaine initié en 2004. Carte blanche est donnée à l’artiste qui recentre aujourd’hui son propos sur des pratiques qui semblent suspendre le recours aux dessins d’humour et aux anti-héros. L’exposition témoigne de cet infléchissement et comporte un ensemble d’½uvres inédites. Moyens d’accès : Bus 48, 91, 92, 94, 95, 96 / Métro MontparnasseBienvenue, Falguière DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉE BOURDELLE ADDRESS: 18 rue Antoine Bourdelle, Paris Created for michael arrington Paris, France 181 Paris mondain, Paris PoPulairE - ¼uvrEs du xixE sièclE dEs collEctions du PEtit Palais Sur le thème de cette exposition, un nouvel accrochage est proposé dans les grandes salles du rez-de-jardin. Portraits et scènes de la vie des rues parisiennes du XIXe siècle évoquent une ville qui se modernise sous l’impulsion d’une croissance démographique jusque-là inégalée. L’ère mythique de la Belle Époque fut aussi brillante qu’inquiète et troublée par des tensions sociales et politiques d’une rare intensité. Dans le foisonnement culturel qui en découla, les artistes désireux de peindre la vie qui était la leur et non plus les antiques récits de la tradition académique, ont alors exploré de nouveaux chemins de création, entre tradition et modernité. Nouvelles oeuvres à découvrir : La Mandarine (Madame Thaulow et ses enfants) de Jacques-Émile Blanche, Monsieur et Madame Mosselman d’Alfred de Dreux, Portrait de Mademoiselle de Lancey de Charles Durand dit Carolus-Duran, Le Marchand de chansons de Victor-Gabriel Gilbert, Porteurs de farine - scène parisienne de Louis Carrier-Belleuse, La soupe des pauvres de Jules Adler. Moyens d’accès : Bus 28, 42, 49, 73, 88 M° Champs ElyséesClémenceau Accès handicapé DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: PETIT PALAIS, MUSÉE DES BEAUX-ARTS DE LA VILLE DE PARIS lE mystèrE laPérousE, EnquêtE dans lE PaciFiquE sud L’exposition rend hommage à Jean-François Lapérouse, excellent marin choisi par le roi pour ses qualités humaines, disparu en mer avec son équipage lors d’une expédition scientifique en 1788. L’exposition retrace les grandes étapes du voyage, de l’Alaska à la Chine en passant par l’ïle de Pâques. Date / lieu / horaire : Du 19/3/2008 au 20/10/2008 Horaires : Tous les jours sauf le mardi de 10h à 18h. Fermé les jours fériés. Tarifs : De 5 à 9 euro(s) MUSÉE NATIONAL DE LA MARINE 17 place du Trocadéro Palais de Chaillot Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 182 PARIS 16 75016 Accès handicapé DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉE NATIONAL DE LA MARINE ADDRESS: 17 place du TrocadÉ ro Palais de Chaillot, Paris alyah bEth, l’émigration clandEstinE dEs JuiFs dEPuis la FrancE vErs la PalEstinE A l’occasion de l’anniversaire de la fondation de l’Etat d’Israël (14 mai 1948), cette exposition évoque les départs clandestins des Juifs depuis la France vers Eretz Israël (nom hébreu de la Palestine) entre 1945 et 1948. Alyah est un terme hébreu qui désigne l’émigration juive vers la Terre sainte. L’exposition souligne le rôle particulier joué par la France de la Libération, qui apporte un soutien concret à un vaste réseau d’immigration illégale vers la Palestine et ne ménage pas son soutien international à la naissance de l’Etat d’Israël. L’opinion publique et la bienveillance des autorités françaises gênent la politique britannique vis-à-vis de l’entrée des Juifs en Palestine, l’épopée du navire Exodus durant l’été 1947 demeurant à ce titre l’épisode le plus emblématique. Moyens d’accès : M° Saint-Paul, Hôtel de Ville, Pont-Marie / Bus 67, 69, 76, 96 / Balabus Accès handicapé DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MÉMORIAL DE LA SHOAH ADDRESS: 17 rue Geoffroy l Asnier, Paris lEs ParisiEnnEs dE kiraZ Elles apparaissent au détour d’une rue sur des affiches publicitaires ou en feuilletant la presse, magazines et journaux. Jolies mômes piquantes, délurées et sensuelles, ces nymphettes à la silhouette reconnaissable entre mille ont fait la réputation de leur créateur Edmond Kiraz. Ces célèbres Parisiennes se donnent rendez-vous au musée Carnavalet pour la première rétrospective du dessinateur Kiraz. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 183 Moyens d’accès : M° Saint Paul ou Chemin Vert / Bus 29, 69 ,76, 96 Accès handicapé DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉE CARNAVALET, MUSÉE D’HISTOIRE DE PARIS ADDRESS: 29 rue de SÉ vignÉ HÔ tel Carnavalet, Paris tracEs du sacré Consacrée à la place de l’élan spirituel dans l’histoire de l’art occidental du XXe siècle et renouant avec les grandes expositions pluridisciplinaires qui sont devenues des références dans l’histoire du Centre Pompidou, l’exposition Traces du sacré montrera que de Kandinsky à Picasso, de Barnett Newmann à Bill Viola, une partie de l’art moderne s’est inventée dans ce paysage de croyances bouleversées qui continue de participer à l’invention des formes contemporaines. La présentation chronologique de l’exposition sera l’occasion de faire surgir des thèmes dont la succession décrit les principales préoccupations esthétiques et spirituelles du XXe siècle : de « l’inquiétude métaphysique » à « l’Orient » en passant par « Eros et Thanatos » ou le « Psychédélique » Chacun des thèmes une vingtaine est l’occasion d’exposer en regard une oeuvre contemporaine pour mettre en évidence l’actualité de ces sujets. Le jeu affirmé de la pluridisciplinarité, autour de Traces du sacré, mettra en jeu toutes les composantes du Centre, les Cinémas, les Revues parlées et les Forums de Société, les Spectacles vivants, Vidéodanse, l’Ircam avec plusieurs concerts et la Bibliothèque publique d’information avec des rencontres littéraires. DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: CENTRE POMPIDOU dEsign contEmPorain Finlandais, PromEnonsnous dans lE bois Le design finlandais est bien connu du grand public grâce aux grands maîtres de l’entre-deux-guerres, d’Alvar Aalto à Tapio Wirkkala en passant par Kaj Franck. Bien connues aussi les grandes entreprises qui ont largement diffusé ce design : Artek, Arabia, Iittala, Marimekko Dans le cadre de la saison finlandaise 2008, le musée des Arts décoratifs a choisi de se pencher sur Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 184 la création finlandaise contemporaine, peu connue du public même si les productions de certains designers comme Harri Koskinen ont de nombreux amateurs. Date / lieu / horaire : Du 28/5/2008 au 31/8/2008 Horaires : Galerie d’actualité - Du mardi au vendredi de 11h à 18h, le samedi et le dimanche de 10h à 18h, le jeudi : nocturne jusqu’à 21h LES ARTS DECORATIFS - MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS 107 rue de Rivoli PARIS 01 75001 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: LES ARTS DÉCORATIFS - MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS ADDRESS: 107 rue de Rivoli, Paris unE Passion marocainE, caFtans, brodEriEs, biJoux Dans le décor reconstitué du jardin Majorelle, que le grand couturier avait restauré à Marrakech, cette exposition montre l’influence de ce pays sur son travail. Les caftans présentés, longues et amples tuniques brodées portées par les hommes comme par les femmes, illustrent trois périodes différentes : 36 modèles parmi ce qui se faisait de mieux au Maroc entre le XVIIIe et le XXe siècle; quelques pièces sorties des collections de la Fondation montrent comment ce dernier s’en est inspiré; des créations de Tamy Tazy, figure de la haute couture marocaine, éclairent l’évolution actuelle de cet art traditionnel. Des accessoires féminins les acccompagnent. Date / lieu / horaire : Du 25/3/2008 au 31/8/2008 Horaires : tous les jours sauf le lundi de 11h à 18h FONDATION PIERRE BERGE - YVES SAINT LAURENT 3 rue Léonce-Reynaud PARIS 16 75016 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: FONDATION PIERRE BERGE - YVES SAINT LAURENT ADDRESS: 3 rue LÉ once-Reynaud, Paris Created for michael arrington Paris, France 185 naPoléon, symbolEs dEs Pouvoirs sous l’EmPirE (1800-1815) Sous le règne de Napoléon, l’art décoratif prend une vigueur nouvelle : les meubles et objets sont ornés d’images simples et fortes, tirées de la mythologie antique, qui vont bien au-delà d’une fonction purement décorative. En abordant la question de la signification des ornements sous l’Empire, le musée des Arts décoratifs bouscule les préjugés liés aux symboles napoléoniens, souvent réduits dans l’imaginaire collectif aux emblèmes du pouvoir politique. L’exposition invite le visiteur à porter un regard nouveau sur ces images qui, de l’aigle au papillon, de la feuille de laurier à la couronne de fleur, de l’abeille à l’éphèbe, du sphinge au cygne, d’Apollon à Psyché révèlent l’autre pendant du pouvoir : celui de la séduction. 250 objets : mobilier, pièces d’orfèvrerie, céramiques, textiles, papier peint sont ainsi réunis dans la grande nef des Arts Décoratifs, dans une scénographie confiée à Philippe Renaud. Date / lieu / horaire : Du 3/4/2008 au 5/10/2008 Horaires : Nef - du mardi au vendredi de 11h à 18h, samedi et dimanche de 10h à 18h, le jeudi, nocturne jusqu’à 21h. Fermé le lundi. DANS LA NEF DU MUSÉE 107 rue de Rivoli PARIS 01 75001 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: LES ARTS DÉCORATIFS - MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS ADDRESS: 107 rue de Rivoli, Paris annEttE mEssagEr, mElo-mEli Moyens d’accès : Métro ligne station Saint-Germain-des-Prés. Bus 24, 27, 39, 63, 70, 86, 87, 95, 96. DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: ECOLE NATIONALE SUPÉRIEURE DES BEAUX ARTS ADDRESS: 14 rue Bonaparte, Paris Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 186 saul stEinbErg : illuminations Cette rétrospective est le premier regard porté sur l’extraordinaire contribution de Saul Steinberg à l’art du XX e siècle, et sur son rôle de calligraphe des temps modernes, combinant le mot et l’image pour exalter le regard et l’esprit de son public. Date / lieu / horaire : Du 6/5/2008 au 27/7/2008 Horaires : Du mardi au dimanche de 13h00 à 18h30, le samedi de 11h00 à 18h40, nocturne le mercredi jusqu’à 20h30 FONDATION HENRI CARTIER-BRESSON 2 impasse Lebouis PARIS 14 75014 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: FONDATION HENRI CARTIER-BRESSON ADDRESS: 2 impasse Lebouis, Paris niEvEs library La maison d’édition indépendante zurichoise Nieves, présente l’intégralité de ses fanzines et livres d’artistes, consultables par le public. En partenariat avec le festival international de l’Affiche et du graphisme de Chaumont. Date / lieu / horaire : Du 18/5/2008 au 28/9/2008 Horaires : du mercredi au dimanche de 13h à 20h, nocturne le jeudi jusqu’à 22h Tarifs : gratuit CENTRE CULTUREL SUISSE 32 et 38 rue des Francs Bourgeois PARIS 03 75003 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: CENTRE CULTUREL SUISSE ADDRESS: 32 et 38 rue des Francs Bourgeois, Paris Created for michael arrington Paris, France 187 John armlEdEr : JacquEs garcia Présentation du projet de John Armleder, spécialement conçu pour le lieu. Date / lieu / horaire : Du 18/5/2008 au 28/9/2008 Horaires : du mercredi au dimanche de 13h à 20h, nocturne le jeudi jusqu’à 22h Tarifs : gratuit CENTRE CULTUREL SUISSE 32 et 38 rue des Francs Bourgeois PARIS 03 75003 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: CENTRE CULTUREL SUISSE ADDRESS: 32 et 38 rue des Francs Bourgeois, Paris caricaturEs dE FumEurs La politique, les commérages, les modes ou les travers de caractère nourrissent la satire du caricaturiste et les fumeurs ont de tout temps constitués une cible privilégiée. Date / lieu / horaire : Du 25/4/2008 au 31/7/2008 Horaires : du mardi au dimanche inclus de 14h à 19h MUSEE DU FUMEUR 7 rue Pache PARIS 11 75011 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉE DU FUMEUR ADDRESS: 7 rue Pache, Paris la PostE insPirE dEs artistEs L’exposition permet de découvrir le rôle de La Poste dans l’art des XXe et XXIe siècles. Commanditaire d’½uvres d’art pour la série artistique de timbres-poste, La Poste est aussi une source d’inspiration pour de nombreux artistes. Cet événement exceptionnel réunit plus de 150 oeuvres provenant en majorité Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 188 des collections du Musée de La Poste, souvent méconnues du public. Moyens d’accès : M° Montparnasse Bienvenue, Falguière, Pasteur DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: MUSÉE DE LA POSTE ADDRESS: 34 boulevard de Vaugirard, Paris WavE FiEld syntEsis : lEs systEmEs dE diFFusion du Futur Inauguration du système WFS Présentation : Olivier Warusfel, responsable de l’équipe Acoustique des salles à l’Ircam DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: CENTRE POMPIDOU trois hommEs dans un salon, d’aPrès l’intErviEW dE FErré-brassEns-brEl Par François-rEné cristiani Pour la première fois à la Comédie Française. Mise en scène d’ Anne Kessler Date / lieu / horaire : Du 15/5/2008 au 29/6/2008 Horaires : 18h30 STUDIO THÉÂTRE 99 rue de Rivoli Galerie du Carrousel du Louvre PARIS 01 75001 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: COMÉDIE-FRANÇAISE ADDRESS: 1 place Colette, Paris l’aFFichE 100% FinlandE 1907-2007 Dans le cadre de la saison finlandaise 2008, l’association Grafia et le musée de l’affiche de Lhati proposent de parcourir cent ans de création graphique et publicitaire en Finlande. Equivalent du Club des Directeurs Artistiques en France, Grafia réunit chaque année un jury qui récompense les meilleurs travaux en design graphique. Dans la première partie de l’exposition seront Created for michael arrington Paris, France 189 ainsi présentés les premiers et seconds prix de l’année 2007. Cette jeune création sera confrontée au patrimoine graphique finlandais, puisque la seconde partie de l’exposition présentera à travers une sélection de 180 affiches de la collection du musée de Lahti, cent ans d’affiches finlandaises. Moyens d’accès : Parc de stationnement (Carrousel du Louvre. Pyramides.) Bus (21, 27, 39, 48, 68, 69, 72, 81, 95.) Métro / RER (Ligne n°1, stations Palais-Royal ou Tuileries. Ligne n°7, stations Palais-Royal ou Pyramides.) DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: LES ARTS DÉCORATIFS - MUSÉE DE LA PUBLICITÉ ADDRESS: 107 rue de Rivoli, Paris yErma, dE FEdErico garcia lorca Pour la première fois à la Comédie Française. Mise en scène de Vicente Pradal Date / lieu / horaire : Du 20/5/2008 au 29/6/2008 Horaires : mardi à 19h, mercredi, jeudi, vendredi, samedi à 20h, dimanche à 16h THÉÂTRE DU VIEUX COLOMBIER 21 rue du Vieux-Colombier PARIS 06 75006 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: COMÉDIE-FRANÇAISE ADDRESS: 1 place Colette, Paris orchEstrE En résidEncE : EnsEmblE orchEstral dE Paris Date / lieu / horaire : Du 18/9/2007 au 24/6/2008 Horaires : 20h le 18 septembre - 9, 16 octobre - 27 novembre -11 décembre - 8, 29 janvier - 11, 28 mars - 29 avril - 6, 20, 27 mai - 24 juin THÉÂTRE DES CHAMPS ELYSÉES 15, avenue Montaigne PARIS 08 75008 Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 190 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: Théâtre des Champs-Élysées ADDRESS: 15 avenue Montaigne, Paris bobiloc, dE PhiliPPE gEnty Et mary undErWood Avec Christian Hecq, Scott Koehler, Alice Osborne. Date / lieu / horaire : Du 27/5/2008 au 29/6/2008 Jours d’ouverture : mardi, mercredi, jeudi, vendredi, samedi, dimanche Horaires : 20h30 - dimanche 15h - relâche les lundis, les dimanches 1er et 8 juin, salle Renaud-Barrault THÉÂTRE DU ROND-POINT 2 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt PARIS 08 75008 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: THÉÂTRE DU ROND-POINT ADDRESS: 2 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt, Paris lE Fou d’omar, d’abla Farhou Date / lieu / horaire : Du 26/5/2008 au 30/6/2008 Horaires : 20h30 et dimanche à 17h. Relâche le mardi L’ATALANTE, COMPAGNIE DES MATINAUX 10, place Charles Dullin PARIS 18 75018 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: L’ATALANTE, COMPAGNIE DES MATINAUX ADDRESS: 10 place Charles Dullin, Paris orchEstrE En résidEncE : l’ orchEstrE national dE FrancE Date / lieu / horaire : Du 13/9/2007 au 12/7/2008 Created for michael arrington Paris, France 191 Horaires : 20h le 13 septembre - 4, 11, 18 octobre - 29 novembre - 6, 13 décembre - 10, 24 janvier - 6, 13, 27 mars - 24 avril - 22 mai - 26 et 30 juin - 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 12 juillet THÉÂTRE DES CHAMPS ELYSÉES 15, avenue Montaigne PARIS 08 75008 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: Théâtre des Champs-Élysées ADDRESS: 15 avenue Montaigne, Paris PrintEmPs dE la JEunE création théâtralE : JulEs césar, dE William shakEsPEarE Date / lieu / horaire : Du 27/5/2008 au 12/7/2008 Horaires : Mardi, mercredi, vendredi, samedi à 20h 30 - jeudi à 19 h - Matinée samedi à 16h - relâche dimanche et lundi exceptionnellement une représentation le lundi 31 décembre 2007 à 20h30 THÉÂTRE 14 JEAN-MARIE SERREAU 20 avenue Marc Sangnier PARIS 14 75014 DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: THÉÂTRE 14 JEAN-MARIE SERREAU ADDRESS: 20 avenue Marc Sangnier, Paris moulin rougE shoW - Paris The Moulin Rouge’s current show Féerie features 100 artists, 1000 costumes, sumptuous sets, shimmering lights, as well as a giant aquarium. In addition to the show, you can enjoy a full gourmet dinner, including wine or champagne. DATE: Jun 17 VENUE: BAL DU MOULIN ROUGE ADDRESS: 82 Bd de Clichy, Paris Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 192 Friday, JunE 20, 2008 ”quand JE sErai PEtit” Venez découvrir un spectacle comique à tendance poétique Le OneManChose “ Quand je serai Petit” théâtre Funambule, 53 rue des saules 75018 Paris Metro Lamarck Les vendredi, samedi et dimanche DATE: Jun 20 VENUE: Paris Created for michael arrington Paris, France 193 Weather Forecast sunday, JunE 01, 2008 5:51 AM 9:47 PM ■■ Expect: Cloudy with a couple of showers ■■ High: 69 ■■ Low: 61 ■■ Wind: 6ENE ■■ UV: 4 ■■ Rain Amount: 0.08 ■■ Sunset: ■■ Sunrise: monday, JunE 02, 2008 5:50 AM 9:48 PM ■■ Expect: Considerable cloudiness with spotty showers ■■ High: 72 ■■ Low: 55 ■■ Wind: 7SSE ■■ UV: 3 ■■ Rain Amount: 0.08 ■■ Sunset: ■■ Sunrise: tuEsday, JunE 03, 2008 5:50 AM 9:49 PM ■■ Expect: Rain ■■ High: 63 ■■ Low: 53 ■■ Wind: 11SSW ■■ UV: 2 ■■ Rain Amount: 0.35 ■■ Sunset: ■■ Sunrise: Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 194 WEdnEsday, JunE 04, 2008 ■■ Sunrise: ■■ Sunset: 5:49 AM 9:50 PM ■■ Expect: Intervals of clouds and sun ■■ High: 68 ■■ Low: 53 ■■ Wind: 10WNW ■■ UV: 6 thursday, JunE 05, 2008 ■■ Sunrise: ■■ Sunset: 5:49 AM 9:51 PM ■■ Expect: Mostly cloudy ■■ High: 65 ■■ Low: 48 ■■ Wind: 8NW ■■ UV: 4 Friday, JunE 06, 2008 ■■ Sunrise: ■■ Sunset: 5:48 AM 9:52 PM ■■ Expect: Pleasant with times of clouds and sun ■■ High: 72 ■■ Low: 56 ■■ Wind: 7N ■■ UV: 6 Created for michael arrington Paris, France 195 saturday, JunE 07, 2008 5:48 AM 9:52 PM ■■ Expect: Mostly cloudy ■■ High: 78 ■■ Low: 56 ■■ Wind: 4SE ■■ UV: 5 ■■ Sunset: ■■ Sunrise: sunday, JunE 08, 2008 5:48 AM 9:53 PM ■■ Expect: Times of clouds and sun ■■ High: 70 ■■ Low: 52 ■■ Wind: 6W ■■ UV: 5 ■■ Sunset: ■■ Sunrise: Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 196 references oFFbEat rEsourcEs 1. Wikipedia, Paris; http://en.wikipedia.org 2. Wikitravel, Paris; http://wikitravel.org 3. Yahoo! Finance, Euro; http://finance.yahoo.com/currency 4. AccuWeather, Forecast for Paris; http://www.accuweather. com/world-index-forecast.asp 5. Google Maps, Maps of Paris; http://www.google.com/ maps?q=Paris%2c+France Created for michael arrington