Back Page EmErgEncy numbErs Police: 17 or 112 Medical: More severe 15 or 112, Less severe 18 or 112 Fire Department: 18 or 112 112 calls are answered by 15 or 18 dispatchers, depending on the caller’s location. ExchangE ratE $1 U.S. Dollar is €0.643 Euro $5 U.S. Dollar is €3.215 Euro $10 U.S. Dollar is €6.43 Euro $20 U.S. Dollar is €12.86 Euro $50 U.S. Dollar is €32.15 Euro $100 U.S. Dollar is €64.3 Euro €1 Euro is $1.5551 U.S. Dollar €5 Euro is $7.7755 U.S. Dollar €10 Euro is $15.551 U.S. Dollar €20 Euro is $31.102 U.S. Dollar €50 Euro is $77.755 U.S. Dollar €100 Euro is $155.51 U.S. Dollar timE ZonE Paris is in the UTC+1 time zone. That’s 9 hours ahead of Atherton. 8:00 AM in Atherton is 5:00 PM (the same day) in Paris. 8:00 AM in Paris is 11:00 PM (the next day) in Atherton. tiPPing Policy Taxi: Round Up Restaurant: 5 - 10% Porter: $1 per bag ElEctricity standard, Plug rEquirEmEnts Type C plugs may be found on some appliances, and will fit the Type E outlet. Type C outlets may be found in older buildings. Type A may be found in older buildings but is illegal. The electrical current in France is 230 V, 50 Hz alternating current (AC); Type E: Round pin plug and receptacle with male grounding pin WEathEr ForEcast Sun, Jun 01 H: 69°F, L: 61°F Mon, Jun 02 H: 72°F, L: 55°F Tue, Jun 03 H: 63°F, L: 53°F Wed, Jun 04 H: 68°F, L: 53°F Thu, Jun 05 H: 65°F, L: 48°F English PhrasE guidE Hello: Bonjour (bohng-ZHOOR) Thank you: Merci (mehr-SEE) Please: S’il vous plaît (seell voo PLEH) Excuse me (begging pardon): Pardon, Excusezmoi (pahr-DOHNG, ehks-kuu-zay MWAH) Goodbye: Au revoir (oh RVWAHR) Do you speak English?: Parlez-vous anglais? (PAHR-lay VOOZ ahng-LEH?) How much is a ticket to _____?: Combien coûte le billet pour _____? (kom-BYAN koot luh bee-LAY poor) Where is the _____?: Où se trouve _____? (oo stroov _____) Take me to _____, please: Déposez-moi à _____, je vous prie (DAY-poh-zay-MWAH ah _____, zhuh voo PREE) How much is this?: Combien ça coûte? (COMMbee-yen SAH coot) Is this a guillotine?: Est-ce que c’est une guillotine? (ess-keh-sehtoon-gee-yo-teen?) An up-to-date travel guide prepared for MichaeL arrington Paris Pa r i s, J u n 1 7– J u n 2 5, 2 0 0 8 Maps Weather What to do Where to go Lodging dining The travel guide made just for MichaeL arrington Copyright 2008, Offbeat Guides contents Maps Paris Region View Paris City View Paris Neighborhood View Paris Street View Paris Districts History By plane By train By bus By car On foot By métro By boat On Skates By bicycle By taxi Talk See Landmarks Museums and galleries Do Events Movies Learn Work Buy Flea Markets Musical Instruments Artwork Eat Self catering Some specialities Prices Kosher dining Vegetarian dining Tourists and locals 8 8 10 12 14 16 16 19 21 23 25 25 26 27 30 30 30 32 33 35 36 37 38 40 41 42 42 43 44 44 45 45 47 47 47 48 48 49 Drink Sleep Hotel Chains Crime Respect Contact Cope Get out Paris/1st arrondissement Understand Get in By ‘’Métro’’ Get Around Landmarks Museums and Galleries Do Buy Eat Budget Mid-Range Splurge Drink Sleep Contact Internet Cafés Wireless Hotspots Paris/2nd arrondissement ‘’By Métro’’ Museums etc. Architecture History The Galleries Other Shops Budget Mid-Range Drink Contact Paris/3rd arrondissement ’’By Métro’’ 49 52 53 53 55 57 57 58 60 60 60 60 61 62 63 65 65 66 66 66 67 67 69 69 69 69 71 71 71 71 72 72 73 73 73 74 74 75 75 See Buy Eat Drink Budget Mid-Range Contact Paris/4th arrondissement Get in By Car By Metro By bus Get around Landmarks Museums and Galleries Do Buy Eat Drink Sleep Budget Mid-Range Contact Paris/5th arrondissement ’’By Métro’’ ’’By Bus’’ Landmarks Museums and Galleries Religious buildings Buy Eat Drink Budget Mid-Range Contact Paris/6th arrondissement ’’By Métro’’ Landmarks Museums and Galleries 75 76 76 77 78 78 78 79 79 79 79 80 80 80 82 83 83 84 86 87 87 87 88 90 90 90 91 91 92 92 93 94 96 97 98 99 99 99 100 Buy Eat Cafés Bars Mid-Range Splurge Contact Paris/7th arrondissement By Métro/RER By boat Landmarkes Museums and Galleries Other attractions Do Buy Budget Mid-Range Splurge Drink Contact Paris/8th arrondissement Landmarks Museums and Galleries Eat Drink Mid-Range Splurge Contact Paris/9th arrondissement ’’By Métro’’ Museums and Galleries Do Buy Eat Drink Budget Mid-Range Splurge Contact 100 100 101 102 102 102 103 104 104 104 104 105 106 106 106 106 107 107 107 107 108 108 109 109 110 110 110 111 112 112 112 113 113 114 114 115 115 116 116 Paris, France 7 Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 8 paris region View Created for michael arrington Paris, France 9 Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 10 paris city View Created for michael arrington Paris, France 11 Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 12 paris neighborhood View Created for michael arrington Paris, France 13 Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 14 paris street View Created for michael arrington Paris, France 15 Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 16 paris Paris , the cosmopolitan capital of France, is - with 2.2 million people living in zone 1 (Central Paris) and another 9.9 million people in the suburbs (la banlieue) - one of the largest cities in Europe. Located in the north of the country on the river Seine, Paris has the reputation of being the most beautiful and romantic of all cities, brimming with historic associations and remaining vastly influential in the realms of culture, art, fashion, food and design. Dubbed the City of Light (la Ville Lumière), it is the most popular tourist destination in the world. districts Central Paris is officially divided into 20 districts called arrondissements, numbered from 1 to 20 in a clockwise spiral from the center of the city (known as Kilometre Zero and is located at the front of Notre Dame). Arrondissements are named according to their number. You might, for example, stay in the “5th”, which would be written as 5e (SANK-eeemm) in French. The 12th and 16th arrondissements include large suburban parks, the Bois de Vincennes, and the Bois de Boulogne respectively. The very best map you can get for Paris is called “Paris Pratique par Arrondissement” which you can buy for about €2 at any news stand. It makes navigating the city easy- so much that one can imagine that the introduction of such map-books might be part of what made the arrondissement concept so popular in the first place. Each arrondissement has its own unique character and selection of attractions for the traveler: ■■ 1st (1er). The geographical center of Paris and a great starting point for travelers. The Musée Louvre, the Jardin des Tuileries, Place du Vendôme, Les Halles, Palais Royal, Comédie- Created for michael arrington Paris, France 17 Française, and Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel are all to be found here. ■■ 2nd (2e). The central business district of the city - the Bourse (the Paris Stock Exchange), Opéra-Comique, Théâtre des Variétés, Passage des Panoramas, Théâtre des Bouffes Parisiens and the Bibliothèque Nationale are located here. ■■ 3rd (3e). Archives Nationales, Musée Carnavalet, Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers, Musée Carnavalet, Hôtel de Soubise, the Former Temple fortress, and the northern, quieter part of the Marais can be found here. ■■ 4th (4e). Notre-Dame de Paris, the Hôtel de Ville (Paris town hall), Hôtel de Sully, Rue des Rosiers and the Jewish Quartier, Beaubourg, Le Marais, Bazar de l’Hôtel de Ville, Centre Georges Pompidou, Place de Vosges, Bibliothèque de l’Arsenal, Saint-Jacques Tower and Parisian island Île SaintLouis can be found here. ■■ 5th (5e). Jardin des Plantes, Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle, Musée de Cluny, The Panthéon, Quartier Latin, Universités, La Sorbonne, Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève, Église Saint-Séverin, La Grande Mosquée, Le Musée de l’AP-HP can be located here. ■■ 6th (6e). Jardin du Luxembourg as well as its Senat, Place Saint-Michel, Église Saint-Sulpice and Saint-Germain des Prés can be found here. ■■ 7th (7e). Tour Eiffel and its Parc du Champ de Mars, Les Invalides, Musée d’Orsay, Assemblée Nationale and its subset administrations, Ecole Militaire, and Parisian mega-store Le Bon Marchee can be found here. ■■ 8th (8e). Champs-Elysées, Arc de Triomphe, Place de la Concorde, le Palais de l’Elysée, Église de la Madeleine,JacquemartAndre Museum, Gare Saint-Lazare, Grand Palais and Petit Palais can be found here. ■■ 9th (9e). Opéra Garnier, Galeries Lafayette, Musée Grévin, and Folies Bergère can be found here. ■■ 10th (10e). Canal Saint-Martin, Gare du Nord, Gare de l’Est, Port Saint-Denis, Port Saint-Martin, Passage Brady, Passage Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 18 du Prado, and Église Saint-Vincent-de-Paul can be found here. ■■ 11th (11e). The bars and restaurants of Rue Oberkampf, Bastille, Nation, New Jewish Quarter, Cirque d’Hiver, and Église Saint-Ambroise can be found here. ■■ 12th (12e). Opéra Bastille, Bercy Park and Village, Promenade Plantée, Quartier d’Aligre, Gare de Lyon, Cimetière de Picpus, Viaduc des arts the Bois de Vincennes, and the Zoo de Vincennes can be found here. ■■ 13th (13e). Quartier la Petite Asie, Place d’Italie, La Butte aux Cailles, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (BNF), Gare d’Austerlitz, Manufacture des Gobelins, Butte-aux-Cailles and Pitié-Salpêtrière Hospital can be found here. ■■ 14th (14e). Cimetière du Montparnasse, Gare Montparnasse, La Santé Prison, Denfert-Rochereau, Parc Montsouris, Stade Charléty, Cité Internationale Universitaire de Paris, and Paris Catacombs can be found here. ■■ 15th (15e). Tour Montparnasse, Porte de Versailles, Front de Seine, La Ruche and quartiers Saint-Lambert, Necker, Grenelle and Javel can be found here. ■■ 16th (16e). Palais de Chaillot, Musée de l’Homme, the Bois de Boulogne, Cimetière de Passy, Parc des Princes, Musée Marmottan-Monet, Trocadéro, and Avenue Foch can be found here. ■■ 17th (17e). Palais des Congrès, Place de Clichy, Parc Monceau, Marché Poncelet, and Square des Batignolles can be found here. ■■ 18th (18e). Montmartre, Pigalle, Barbès, Basilica of the Sacré Cœur, Église Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre, and Goutte d’Or can be found here. ■■ 19th (19e). Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, Parc de la Villette, Bassin de la Villette, Parc des Buttes Chaumont, Cité de la Musique, Canal de l’Ourcq, and Canal Saint-Denis can be found here. ■■ 20th (20e). Cimetière de Père Lachaise, Parc de Belleville, and quartiers Belleville and Ménilmontant can be found here. ■■ La Défense. Although it is not officially part of the city, this skyscraper district on the western edge of town is on many Created for michael arrington Paris, France 19 visitors must-see lists for its modern architecture and public art. Beyond central Paris, the outlying suburbs are called Les Banlieues. Schematically, those on the west of Paris (Neuilly, Boulogne, Saint Cloud, Levallois) are wealthy residential communities. Those to the northeast are lower-class immigrant communities with high delinquency; keep in mind, though, that this is a very general classification. history Paris started life as the Celto-Roman settlement of Lutetia on the Île de la Cité, the island in the Seine currently occupied by the Cathédral de Nôtre Dame. It takes its present name from what the Romans named the dominant Gallo-Celtic tribe in the region, the Parisii. When they showed up in 52 BCE, they established their city Lutetia on the left bank of the Seine, in what is now called the “Latin Quarter” in the 5th arrondissement. The Romans held out here for as long as anywhere else in the Western Empire, but by 508 CE they were gone, replaced by Clovis of the Franks, who is considered by the French as their first king. Clovis’ descendants, aka the Carolingians, held onto the expanded Lutetian state for nearly 500 years through Viking raids and other calamities, which finally resulted in a forced move by most of the population back to the islands which had been the center of the original Celtic village. The Capetian Duke of Paris was voted to succeed the last of the Carolingians as King of France, insuring the city a premier position in the medieval world. Over the next several centuries Paris expanded onto the right bank into what was and is still called le Marais (The Marsh). Quite a few buildings from this time can be seen in the 4th arrondissement. The medieval period also witnessed the founding of the Sorbonne. As the “University of Paris”, it became one of the most important centers for education in Europe, if not the whole world, for several hundred years. Most of the institutions that still constitute the University are found in the 5th, and 13th arrondissements. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 20 In the late 18th century there was a period of political and social upheaval in the political history of France and Europe as a whole, during which the French governmental structure, previously a monarchy with feudal privileges for the aristocracy and Catholic clergy, underwent radical change to forms based on Enlightenment principles of nationalism, citizenship, and inalienable rights. Notable events during and following the revolution were the storming of the Bastille 4th arrondissements, and the rise and fall of Napoleonic France. Out of the violent turmoil that was the French Revolution, sparked by the still known Passion des Francais, emerged the enlightened modern day France. The Paris which most visitors know and love was built long after the Capetian and later the Bourbon Kings of France made their mark on Paris with such buildings as the Louvre and the Palais Royal, both in the 1st. They were gone in the 19th century when Baron von Hausmann reconstructed adding the long straight avenues, and replacing many of the then existing medieval houses, with grander and more uniform buildings. New wonders arrived during la Belle Époque, as the Parisian golden age of the late 19th century is known. Gustave Eiffel’s famous tower, the first metro lines, most of the parks, and the streetlights (which are partly believed to have given the city its epithet “the city of light”) all come from this period. Another source of the epithet comes from Ville Lumière, a reference not only to the then revolutionary electrical lighting system implemented in the streets of Paris, but also to the prominence and aura of Enlightenment the city gained in that era. The twentieth century was hard on Paris, but thankfully not as hard as it could have been. Hitler’s order to burn the city was thankfully ignored by the German General von Choltitz who was quite possibly convinced by a Swedish diplomat that it would be better to surrender and be remembered as the savior of Paris, than to be remembered as its destroyer. Following the war, the city recovered at first, but slowed in the 1970s and 1980s when Paris began to experience some of the problems faced by big cities everywhere: pollution, housing shortages, and occasionally failed experiments in urban renewal. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 21 During this time, however, Paris enjoyed considerable growth as a multi-cultural city, with new immigrants from all corners of the world, especially La Francophonie, including most of northern and western Africa as well as Vietnam and Laos. These immigrants brought their foods and music, both of which are of prime interest for many travelers. Today there are more nationalities represented in Paris than even in New York (over 100). Immigration and multi-culturalism continues in 21st century with a marked increase in the arrival of people from Latin America, especially Mexico, Colombia, and Brazil. In the late 1990s it was hard to find good Mexican food in Paris, however, today there are dozens of possibilities from lowly taquerias in the outer arrondissements to nice sit-down restaurants on the boulevards. Meanwhile Latin music from Salsa to Samba is all the rage (well, alongside Paris discotheque electronica). The 21st century has also seen vast improvements in the general livability of Paris, with the Mayor’s office concentrating on reducing pollution and improving facilities for soft forms of transportation including a huge network of cycle paths, larger pedestrian districts and newer faster metro lines. Visitors who normally arrive car-less are the beneficiaries of these policies as much as the Parisians themselves are. As on February 2008, smoking was banned in restaurants and bars to promote healthier and more accepting environments for patrons. by PlanE Paris is served by three international airports - for more information, including arrival/departure times, check the official sites. Charles de Gaulle International Airport (Roissy , ) to the northeast of the city is one of the major hub airports of Europe. It’s notoriously confusing, so allow plenty of time for transfers. There are three terminals: Terminal 1, Terminal 2 (which is huge and subdivided into 2A through 2F), and Terminal 3 (formerly T9). Terminal 1 and 3 are next to each other, whereas mass Terminal 2 is in another building. The free CDGVAL shuttle train Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 22 connects the terminals together. Everything at this airport is very expensive so be aware. There are also hardly any benches around, and don’t even consider looking for an outlet to charge your cell phone or laptop. For getting to or from Paris, RER-B has stations in T3 (from where you can take the free CDGVAL shuttle train to T1) and T2; trains to Paris (Gare du Nord, Châtelet-Les Halles, Saint-Michel Notre-Dame, Luxembourg, Porte Royale, Denfert Rochereau) leave every 15 minutes, and have express trains running at every hour. Tickets cost €8,50 (or €5,50 for a child’s fare) each and take around 40 minutes (or less if on express), making this the fastest and cheapest way to connect. Alternatively, the Roissybus service connects all terminals directly to Opéra Garnier in central Paris, but its subject to traffic jams and rush hour, so it averages 60-90 minutes even on a good day. There is also a TGV station in T2 for high-speed connections, mostly towards Lille and Brussels, but there are also some trains that head south to eg. Rennes and Nantes, bypassing Paris. When using the ticket to the airport (and with tickets to zones outside of Paris) use it to enter and exit the train. Always keep the ticket handy as the SNCF officials sometimes check for tickets, and if you are without one you will be fined a hefty fare of €40. Orly International Airport to the south-west of the city, and served by a southern branch of the RER-B line that heads in the direction of Saint-Rémy-les-Chevreuse (not Robinson). This older international airport is used mainly by Air France for national lines, and other international carriers in Europe. Orly is roughly forty minutes from Paris via the OrlyBus, which departs from Métro Denfert-Rochereau (ligne 6); the price is €6. Another option is bus 285 that takes you to the Métro Villejuif Louis Aragon(ligne 7) in 15 minutes. Bus 285 costs €1,5 and runs every 10 minutes, stopping at airport level -1. The Orlyval light rail connects both terminals to the RER B line at Antony. It runs every 4-7 minutes and cost €9.30 for transfer to Paris. The RER B from Antony runs through Paris to Aéroport Charles de Gaulle. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 23 Beauvais (Aéroport de Paris Beauvais Tillé , ) to way north of the city, is a smaller regional airport that is used by some low-cost carriers such as Ryanair (). The airport operates a shuttle service connecting with the Métro at Porte Maillot station. Buses run even during the wee hours of the morning (~ 6 am). Buses leave 20 minutes after each flight arrives, and a few hours before each flight departs. Exact times can be found on the Beauvais Airport website. The journey will take about an hour in good traffic conditions, and costs €13 each way (as of April 2008). In addition to public transport, Air France operates shuttles between Charles de Gaulle and Paris (€10 - €12), Orly and Paris (€7.5) and between the two airports (€15). Note that if you have connecting Air France flights that land and depart from different airports, you would still generally need to fetch your luggage after landing, catch either the Air France shuttle or a taxi (readily available at all airports) to the other airport and check-in again. This altogether could take up to 2 hours particularly if traffic is at its worse. It is also common to lose time during disembarking, as passengers often need to get off at the tarmac and get on buses which will bring them to the terminal building. Be sure to have sufficient time between flights to catch your connection. Note that check-in counters usually close 30 minutes before the flight departs, longer if flights are international carriers. If you arrive to CDG Airport at night you’ll need a Noctilien bus to get to the city center. The bus stops in all three terminals (in terminal 2 it will be the second level in departure section - it is very difficult to find, but it really exists). The bus leaves every 30 minutes after 00:30 (see ). The buses you’ll need are N121 and N120; the price is 7 Euro. by train Paris is well connected to the rest of Europe by train. There are several stations serving Paris. You will probably want to know in advance at which station your train is arriving, so as to better choose a hotel and plan for transport within the city. ■■ Gare du Nord, (10th), Métro: Gare du Nord - TGV trains to and from Belgium, the Netherlands, and Cologne, Germany Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 24 (Thalys), and the United Kingdom (Eurostar) and regular trains from Northern Europe. ■■ Gare d’Austerlitz, (13th), Métro: Gare d’Austerlitz - regular trains to and from the center and southwest of France (Orléans, Limoges, Toulouse the long way), Spain and Portugal and arrival of majority of the night trains. ■■ Gare de l’Est, (10th), Métro: Gare de l’Est - ICE/TGV to and from Saarbrücken, Frankfurt, and Stuttgart, Germany. ■■ Gare de Lyon, (12th), Métro: Gare de Lyon - regular and TGV trains to and from Southern and eastern France: French Alps, Marseille, Lyon, Dijon, Switzerland: Geneva, Lausanne and Italy. ■■ Gare St Lazare, (8th) Métro: St-Lazare - trains to and from Basse-Normandie, Haute-Normandie. ■■ Gare Montparnasse, (15th), Métro: Montparnasse-Bienvenüe - TGV and regular trains to and from the west and south-west of France (Brest, Rennes, Nantes, Bordeaux, Toulouse the fastest way and Spain). The French national railway authority operates practically all trains within France excluding the Eurostar to London and the Thalys to Brussels and onward to the Netherlands and Germany. There are also a few local lines of high touristic interest which are privately owned. All SNCF, Eurostar and Thalys tickets can be bought in railway stations, city offices and travel agencies (no surcharge). The SNCF website is very convenient to book and buy tickets up to two months in advance. There are significant discounts if you book early. To get the best rates you should book at least four weeks ahead. Surprisingly, round trip tickets (aller-retour) with a stay over Saturday night can be cheaper than a single one-way ticket (aller simple). A very limited selection of last minute trips are published on the SNCF website every Tuesday, with discounts of more than 50%. There a a number of different kinds of high speed and normal trains: ■■ TER. Regional trains and normal day or night trains (no special name) operate to and from most cities in France and are usually your best bet for destinations all over France. These Created for michael arrington Paris, France 25 are the trains you’ll find yourself on if you have a Eurail pass, and don’t want to pay extra for reservations. ■■ TGV. The world-famous French high-speed trains (Trains à Grande Vitesse) run several times a day to the Southeast Nice(5-6h), Marseille (3h) and Avignon (2.5 h), the East Geneva (3h) or Lausanne, Switzerland and Dijon (1h15) , the Southwest Bordeaux (3h), the West Rennes (3h) and the North Lille (less than 1h). Eurostar to London (2h15) and Thalys to Brussels (1h20) use almost identical trains. ■■ Thalys. A high-speed train service running daily to/from the Netherlands, Belgium and Germany - it can be a bit expensive compared to normal trains. ■■ Intercity. Intercity trains leave for all parts of Europe, including overnight trains to San Sebastian in Spain, Porto and Lisbon in Portugal. ■■ Eurostar. The Eurostar service connects Paris with London directly and Brussels indirectly, as well many other destinations indirectly through the various west European rail services. Travel time between Paris and London St Pancras International currently averages at 2 hours 15 minutes, following the opening of a new rail link in late 2007. by bus ■■ Eurolines is a transeuropean bus company that offers trips to Paris. by car Several autoroutes (expressway, motorway) link Paris with the rest of France: A1 and A3 to the north, A5 and A6 to the south, A4 to the east and A13 and A10 to the west. Not surprisingly traffic jams are significantly worse during French school holidays. The multi-lane highway around Paris, called the Périphérique, is probably preferable to driving through the center. Another beltway nearing completion La Francilienne loops around Paris about 10 km further out from the Périphérique. It is advised not to drive in the Paris Metro Area. It is better to drive to a metro station with a parking lot and then use the metro to continue your trip throughout Paris. Most of Paris’ Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 26 roads were created long before the invention of automobiles. Traffic inside the city tends to be heavy, especially at rush hour, driving however may be rather easy and efficient in the evening; parking also is difficult. Also, the medieval nature of parts of the city’s street system makes it very confusing, and traffic will almost never allow one to stop or slow down to get one’s bearings. If you are unfamiliar with the streets and still insist on driving in the city, make sure you have a navigator in the passenger seat with you. on Foot Walking in Paris is one of the great pleasures of visiting the City of Light. It is possible to cross the entire city in only a few hours, but only if you can somehow keep yourself from stopping at numerous cafés and shops. In fact within a few years walking combined with biking and the Metro will be the only way to get around the very center of Paris: The Mayor’s office has announced plans to declare the 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th arrondissements almost totally car-free by 2012. The smartest travelers take advantage of the walk-ability of this city, and stay above ground as much as possible. A metro ride of less than 2 stops is probably best avoided since walking will take about the same amount of time and you’ll be able to see more of the city. You may have heard of the hazard of walking into dog droppings in Paris. Unfortunately, despite many campaigns to get Parisians to clean up after their dogs, it’s still quite true that you have to keep an eye on the sidewalk in front of you. You will also notice that most of the older Parisian streets (especially the ones in the Quartier Latin) are particularly narrow with little or no room to even fit a car, so the sidewalks on these roads are extremely tiny. Although this means you would opt to walk on the road, be wary as Parisian drivers, taxi drivers in particular, take no heed in the narrowness of the road, and will drive down it as fast as if they were driving along a major road. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 27 It’s always fun to experience the city by foot, and there are numerous walking tours around Paris, whether self guided (with the help of a guidebook) or with a touring guide (booked through your travel agency or hotel). The city historically is one that is best explored by foot, and some of the most marvelous memories you will have of Paris is walking through secret found places. by métro Paris has an excellent underground train system, known as the Métro (short for Chemin de Fer Métropolitain i.e. Metropolitan Railways). There are 16 lines (lignes) (1-14, 3bis and 7bis) on which trains travel all day at intervals of a few minutes between 5 AM and 1230), stopping at all stations on the line. Times for trains can be seen on a prompt on the platform. Line 14, which is fully automated, is called the Méteor. Scheduled times for first and last trains are posted in each station on the center sign. The lines are named according to the names of their terminal stations (those at the end of the line). If you ask the locals about directions they will answer something like : take line number n toward “end station 1”, change at “station”, take the line nn toward “end station 2” etc. The lines are also color-coded. In addition there are 5 train lines called RER A, B, C, D, E. RER trains run at intervals of about 6 - 7 minutes, and stop at every station within Paris. Although a regular subway ticket can be used within Paris (Zone 1), it is necessary to pass the ticket through the turnstile when passing between the subway and the RER lines, as the two systems are separate networks. This ticket is necessary to both enter and exit the RER networks, as the RER trains travel on to the Parisian suburbs, outside the zone where a regular subway ticket can’t be used. Beware that traveling outside the city center without a valid RER ticket will get you fined, and the packs of inspectors who roam the system show no mercy to tourists pleading ignorance. In particular, CDG airport is not within the city, and you’ll need to purchase a more expensive RER ticket to get there (see Get in). For travel outside of the Paris zone, the train arrival times are shown on a monitor hanging from the ceiling inside the RER Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 28 station above the platform. Information about the stops to be made by the next train is presented on a separate board also hanging from the ceiling. It is important to check this board before boarding the train, as not all trains make stops at all stations on a given line. RATP is responsible for public transport including metro, buses, and some of the high speed inter-urban trains (RER). The rest of the RER is operated by SNCF. However, both companies take the same tickets, so the difference is of little interest for most people except in case of strikes (because RATP may strike while SNCF does not, or the other way round). Current fares can be found at their website. Basically, as you move further from Paris (ie into higher zones), tickets get more expensive. For the subway, a single ticket (ticket t+) costs €1.50; however, it is generally not advisable to buy tickets by the unit and to rather purchase a carnet of ten tickets, which can be bought for €11.10 at any station, that will bring the price per ticket down to €1.11. Tickets, named ‘Tarif Reduit’ may be purchased for children under the age of 10 for €0,55 each, or a carnet for €5,50. Both tickets are valid for unlimited metro, RER, bus and tram transfers during one hour. Tickets do not expire. A 1-day ticket, a weekly pass, and a monthly pass are also available. The price varies according to the zones for which the ticket can be used. The cheapest 1-day ticket called Mobilis, is valid for zones 1-2, with a price of 5.60 euros. Once bought, it is necessary to write in the spaces provided on the ticket: 1) the date the ticket is being used in European notation of day/ month/year (Valable le), 2) the last name (Nom), and 3) and the first name (Prénom). Unfortunately, this ticket is not valid for use for travel to/from Charles de Gaulle airport. If you’re staying a bit longer, the weekly and monthly passes are called Carte Orange (1 week pass, €16.30 for Paris and inner suburbs), and the monthly Carte Orange Mensuelle (1 month pass). Note that an Hebdomadaire (eb-DOH-ma-DAYR) starts on Mondays and a Mensuelle on the first of the month. The Carte Orange is non-transferrable, and therefore requires the user Created for michael arrington Paris, France 29 to provide information on the pass after the sale. Since 2008, the Carte Orange is sold as refill of a “Navigo Decouverte” no contact pass. This pass is sold 5€. You must write your last name (nom), your first name (prénom) and stick your photo on the nominative card. After, you have to refill your pass with a Carte Orange Hebdomadaire (1 week pass), or a Carte Orange Mensuelle (1 month pass). You have to choose at least 2 the contiguous “zones” : Paris is first the zone 1, La Défense is in the third zone, Versailles in the fourth,... Everything related to a “Navigo” pass is in purple (eg. the target for the pass in the turnstiles). Although not as good a deal for adults in most cases as the Mobilis or Carte Orange, there are also 1 to 5 day tourist passes, called Paris Visite available, which are a bargain for kids of ages 4 to 11, starting at €4.25 per day for travel within zones 1-3. Keep your métro ticket or pass with you at all times, you may be checked or “controlled”. You will be cited and forced to pay on the spot. Although the most likely spots for controls are at big métro stations or during métro line change “correspondences”, it is not uncommon for “controleurs” to check tickets on trains. RATP agents may be present in the metro stations even on Sunday night. Métro stations have both ticket windows and automatic vending machines. The majority of automatic vending machines take only coins or European credit cards with a pin-encoded chip on the front. Therefore, to use either Euro bills or a non-European credit card with a magnetic stripe, it is necessary to make the purchase from the ticket window. Each station displays a detailed map of the surrounding area with a street list and the location of buildings (monuments, schools, places of worship etc) as well as exits for that particular metro. Maps are located on the platform if the station has several exits or near the exit if there is only one. When the train arrives, the doors may not open automatically. In such a case, there are handles located both inside and outside Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 30 the train which you have to push, or unlatch in order to open the door. by boat There are several excellent boat services which makes use of the Seine. As well as providing easy, cheap transport to much of central Paris, excellent photo opportunities abound. You can buy a day or 3 day ticket and hop on and off the boat as needed. The boats take a circular route from the Eiffel Tower, down past the Louvre, Notre Dame, botanical gardens then back up the other bank past Musee D’orsay. offer sightseeing cruises. on skatEs Paris is the mecca of city skating. This is due to the large, smooth surfaces offered by both the pavements and the roads. Skating on the pavement is legal all around Central Paris (zone 1) and its suburbs (zone 2+). See our Do section below for more information. by bicyclE Renting a bike is a very good alternative over driving or using public transport. Riding a bike anywhere in the city is far safer for the moderately experienced cyclists than almost any town or city in the United States. The French are very cognizant of cyclists, almost to a point of reverence. A few years ago Paris wasn’t the easiest place to get around by bike. That however has changed dramatically in recent years, starting perhaps with a lengthy bus and traffic jam. The city government has taken a number of steps in strong support of improving the safety and efficiency of the urban cyclist as well, in establishing some separated bike lanes, but even more important a policy of allowing cyclists to share the ample bus lanes on most major boulevards. Paris also has many riversides which are perfect for cycling. The Paris bike network now counts over 150 km of either unique or shared lanes for the cyclist. In addition, the narrower, medieval side streets of the central arrondissements make for rather scenic and leisurely cycling, especially during off-hours of the day when traffic is lighter. Do remember to bring a good map, since there is no grid plan to speak of and almost all of the smaller streets are one-way. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 31 Note that, while the streets of Paris are generally fairly easy on novice cyclists, there are some streets in the city that should be avoided by those who do not have sufficient urban cycling experience. ‘Rue de Rivoli’, ‘Place de la Bastille’, and ‘Place de la Nation’ are particularly hairy, especially during weekdays and the Saturday evening rush, and should not be navigated by anyone not confident in their ability to cycle in heavy traffic. ‘Avenue des Champs-Elysées’, ‘Place de l’Étoile’, and ‘Voie Georges Pompidou’ (the lower-level express lanes along the banks of the Seine) should be avoided at all times. You can find an excellent map of the bike network called Plan des Itinéraires cyclables () at the information center in the Hôtel de Ville. although its not soo much fun with skates There are two different bike rental programs in Paris: ■■ Vélib. In July 2007 the municipality of Paris introduced the Vélib program (“vélo Liberté” or Bicycle Freedom) by which it is possible to rent a bike for a very modest price. Numerous stations are to be found around the city (at major landmarks and metro stations) with your credit card (although sadly at this writing many American cards do not work at the machines), you can subscribe for 1 day (1€) or 7 days (5€) after paying a security on the bicycle (to pay for it if it isn’t returned) & then get a bike the first 30 mn are free... so the game is to get to another station in 25 mn & get another bicycle (you will have to wait for 5 mn before you get another one, though). Try it if your card works in the machines it’s a great way to get around! The bicycles are wonderful cruiser bikes, with a front basket to put a purse or bag. In addition to operating a number of bike rental buses, the RATP has some permanent locations, including: ■■ Roue Libre, Les Halles, 1 passage Mondétour (facing 120 rue Rambuteau, Métro: Les Halles). Opening hours from 9 a.m. until 7 p.m. Bikes can be rented for one weekend (€25), Mon- Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 32 day to Friday (€20), a working day (€9), or one day in the weekend (€14). ■■ Roue Libre, Bastille, 37, boulevard Bourdon, Métro: Bastille. Opening hours from 9 a.m. until 7 p.m. Bikes can be rented for one weekend (€25), Monday to Friday (€20), a working day (€9), or one day in the weekend (€14). Another possibility for renting a bicycle is Fat Tire bike tours. See the listing under Do below. by taxi Taxis are comparatively cheap especially at night when there are no traffic jams to be expected. They are however but not nearly plentiful enough. In the daytime, it is not always a good idea to take a taxi, as walking or taking the metro (See: Métro) will often be faster. If you know you will need one to get to the airport, or to a meeting, it is wise to book ahead by phone (Taxis Bleus and Taxis G7). Remember if a taxi is near a ‘taxi station’, they’re not supposed to pick you up except at the station where there may be people waiting for a taxi. Taxi stations are usually near train stations, big hotels, hospitals, large crossings. There are a number of services by which you can call for taxis or make a reservation in advance: ■■ Taxis de France Taxi Bleus ■■ Taxi-Paris ■■ Shuttle ■■ Taxis As in many other cities a taxi can be difficult to stop; you may have to try several times. When you do get a taxi to stop, the driver will usually roll down his window to ask you where you want to go. If the driver can’t (or doesn’t want to) go where you want, he might tell you that he’s near the end of his work day & can’t possibly get you where you want before he has to go off-duty. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 33 There is a €5.50 minimum on all taxi rides, mandated by city law, but the meter does not show this amount, which can result in being asked to pay more than the metered amount on short rides. Frequently the taxi driver will not want to drive you all the way to the doorstep, but will prefer to let you out a block or so away if there are one or more one-way streets to contend with. Try to look at this as a cost-savings rather than an inconvenience. You should pay while still seated in the cab as in London and not through the front window New York style. The driver will not let you sit in the front seat (unless there are 3 or 4 of you, which is a rare case usually expedited by more money). Taxi-drivers come in all types, some nice, some rude, some wanting to chat, some not. Smoking in taxis is generally not allowed, however it might be that the taxi driver himself wants a cigarette in which case the rule might become flexible. Many drivers prefer that you avoid using your cellphone during the ride; if you do have to, make an apologizing gesture & sound, and do make a short call. tip is included in the fare price If you’re especially satisfied with the service, you can give something (basically 10%), but you don’t have to. ■■ There is an extra charge for baggage handling. If for any reason you wish to file a complaint about a Paris taxi, take note of the taxi’s number on the sticker on the left hand backseat window. Beware of illegal taxis (see the ‘Stay Safe’ section). ■■ A talk In the parts of the city that tourists frequent the most (Tour Eiffel, Le Louvre, Champs-Elysées), the shopkeepers, information booth attendants, and other workers are likely to answer you in English, even if your French is advanced. These workers tend to deal with thousands of foreign-speaking tourists, and responding in English is often faster than repeating themselves in French. This is not the case for the rest of the city. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 34 For most people English is something the Parisians had to study in school, and thus seems a bit of a chore. People helping you out in English are making an extra effort, sometimes a considerable one. Younger people are much more likely to be fluent in English than older people. If it’s your first time in France you will have some problems understanding what people are saying (even with prior education in French). They talk fast, swallow some letters, and generally concentrate on the tone and melody of their speech in an effort to make it all sound like beautiful music. Likewise, the French taught in schools in English-speaking countries tends to be written French which is quite different from spoken French. Indeed, French spoken by native English speakers tends to be really hardly understandable by the French - do not be offended if people ask you to repeat, or seem not to understand you, they do not act out of snobbery. Keep your sense of humour, and if necessary, write down phrases or place names. And remember to speak slowly and clearly. Unless you have an advanced level and can at least sort of understand French Movies you should also assume that it will be difficult for people to understand what you are saying (Imagine someone speaking English to you in an indiscernible accent, it’s all the same). When in need of directions what you should do is this: find a younger person, or a person reading some book or magazine in English, who is obviously not in a hurry; say “hello” or “bonjour”; start by asking if the person speaks English, “Parlez-vous anglais?” (Par-LAY voo An-Glay?) even if he/she’s reading something in English, speak slowly and clearly; write down place names if necessary. Smile a lot. Also, carry a map (preferably Paris par Arrondissement); given the complexity of Paris streets it is difficult to explain how to find any particular address in any language, no matter how well you speak it. If anything, the person may have an idea as to the place you are looking for, but may not know exactly where it may be, so the map always helps. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 35 On the other hand you will probably get the cold shoulder if you stop a random person in the métro (like, say, some middle-aged hurried person who has a train to take), fail to greet them and say “where is place X or street Y”. Now if you do speak French, remember two magic phrases : “Excusez-moi de vous déranger” (“Sorry to bother you”) and “Pourriez-vous m’aider?” (“Could you help me?”) — use them liberally - especially in shops; they will work wonders. sEE One of the best value and most convenient ways to see the sights of Paris is with the (previously known as Carte Musées et Monuments), a pre-paid entry card that allows entry into over 70 museums and monuments around Paris and comes in 2-day (€30), 4-day (€45) and 6-day (€60) denominations (prices as of March 2007). The card allows you to jump otherwise sometimes lengthy queues and is available from participating museums, tourist offices, Fnac branches and all the main Métro and RER train stations. You will still need to pay to enter most special exhibitions. Note that most museums and galleries are closed on either Monday or Tuesday - check ahead to avoid disappointment! - and most ticket counters close 30 - 45 minutes before final closing. Also consider the also a pre paid entry card + queue jumping to 60 attractions including The Louvre, The Arc de Triomphe, as well as a river cruise, open top bus tour, cycle hire and allows free metro & public transport travel. All national museums are open free of charge on the first Sunday of the month; note, however, that this may mean long lines and crowded exhibits. Keep away from Paris during Easter week. It’s really crowded. People have to queue up at the Eiffel tower for several hours. These listings are just some highlights of things that you really should see if you can during your visit to Paris. The complete Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 36 listings are found on each individual district page (follow the link in parenthesis). A good listing of almost everything to do in Paris are the ‘Pariscope’, the ‘Officiel des spectacles’, and the much hipper ‘Zurban’, weekly magazines listing all concerts, stage plays and museums. Available from many kiosks. Unfortunately, their Pariscope website is of no use at all. If you prefer a web version, you can visit Cityzeum, with maps of Paris, audio tours to download freely and more than 2000 visit and entertainment points. landmarks ■■ Arc de Triomphe (8th). The grave of the unknown soldier is under the arch. ■■ Arènes de Lutece (5th). Built during the 1st and 2nd centuries, this amphitheater could seat up to 17,000 people, hosting gladiator fights as well as less bloody entertainment. Now a popular spot for playing boules, it is one of the only remaining ruins from the Gallo-Roman era in Paris, along with the Thermes (public baths) at Cluny. ■■ Assemblée Nationale (7th). Seats the French Parliament, and was designed by Giardini and Gabriel in 1728. ■■ Catacombs (14th). Used to store the exhumed bones from the overflowing Paris cemetery. ■■ Chateau de Versailles (Versailles). On the outskirts of the city, the “must see” home of the Sun King Louis XIV. ■■ the Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) (7th). One of the most famous landmarks in the world. ■■ Grand Arche de la Defense (La Defense). A modern officebuilding variant of the Arc de Triomphe. Has a viewing platform. ■■ Notre Dame Cathedral (4th). Impressive Gothic cathedral that was the inspiration for Victor Hugo’s novel The Hunchback Created for michael arrington Paris, France 37 of Notre Dame. Saved in the 19th century by the best-known French architect Viollet-le-Duc. ■■ Pantheon (5th). Underneath, the final resting place for the great heroes of the French Republic above, a marvellous view of the city. ■■ Père-Lachaise Cemetery (20th). See the grave of Jim Morrison amongst many others. ■■ Sacré Coeur (18th). A church perched on top of the highest point in Paris. Behind the church is the artists’ area, in front are spectacular views of the whole city. ■■ Sainte Chapelle (1st). Far more beautiful than the famous, but gloomy, Notre Dame. Make sure you go on a sunny day, as the highlight of this small chapel in Rayonnante Gothic style are the large stained-glass windows which soar up to near the vaulted ceiling. Also of interest is the extremely ornate lower level. If it happens to be rainy or cloudy, give Sainte Chappelle a miss, as the play of colored lights on the floor are well worth the wait for a sunnier day. musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Le Musée de l’AP-HP (5th). Paris’s medical history. ■■ Le Musee des Arts Decoratifs (1st). Showcasing eight centuries of French savoir faire. ■■ Carnavalet (3rd). //www.carnavalet.paris.fr Museum of Paris history exhibitions are permanent and free. Noted for its collection of French Revolution artifacts, such as David’s famous painting Serment du Jeu de Paume. Has Proust’s bed and the Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 38 Dauphin’s room in the prison tower diarama. Located in the Marais. ■■ Centre Georges Pompidou (4th). The great museum of modern art, the building an attraction in itself. ■■ Cluny (5th). Paris’s medieval museum, housed in a part Roman, part medieval building. Entry is now free of charge. ■■ Delacroix. National museum housed in the home of painter Eugene Delacroix. (8th). Private collection of ■■ Jacquemart-Andre Museum French, Italian, Dutch masterpieces in a typical XIXth century mansion. ■■ Picasso Museum (3rd). Contains the master’s own collections. ■■ Les Invalides (7th). Museum of arms and armor from the Middle Ages to today. Also contains the tombs of Napoleon Bonaparte and other French military figures. ■■ The Louvre (1st). One of the finest museums in the world of art, art-history, and culture. Be prepared to walk as this is a fairly large facility and has many rooms to view. ■■ Musée de l’Orangerie (1st). Impressionist and post-Impressionist paintings by Paul Cézanne, Henri Matisse, Amedeo Modigliani, Claude Monet, Pablo Picasso, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Henri Rousseau, Chaim Soutine, Alfred Sisley. ■■ Musée d’Orsay (7th). Home to the great artists of the 19th century (1848-1914). ■■ Musée Marmottan-Monet(16th). ■■ Musée National de la Marine (16th). From times of exploration to modern day vessels. Interesting but primarily in French. ■■ Rodin Museum (7th). His personal collection and archives, in a charming hotel and sprawling garden. do ■■ cooking class, 21 rue custine. Cooking Class. Hands on French Cooking Classes in a relaxed atmosphere with an experienced French chef. 4 hours of fun, including Market visit, cheese and wine tasting, 5 minutes from the sacre-coeur in the heart of Montmartre. www.cooknwithclass.com ■■ Fat Tire Bike Tours. Offers guided English-speaking bicycle tours of Paris (by day and night), Versailles and Monet’s Gardens in Normandy. Tours operate year-round at a variety Created for michael arrington Paris, France 39 of times each day. Tours offer a great orientation, detailed city information and fantastic photo opportunities. They use California beach cruiser bikes with large comfortable seats. Tours are not the least bit strenuous and all ages are welcome. Their office has an internet cafe, free bathrooms, loads of information about Paris and free daily luggage storage for their customers. Has been featured in the New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Time, Newsweek and on CNN, the BBC and the Travel Channel. ■■ City Segway Tours. Provides guided English-speaking Segway tours of Paris by day and night. They share an office with Fat Tire Bike Tours and Classic Walks of Paris. ■■ Classic Walks of Paris. Offers guided English-speaking walking tours of Paris. Themed walks include the Classic Walk, Da Vinci Code, Montmartre, Latin Quarter, World War II and French Revolution. They share an office with Fat Tire Bike Tours and City Segway Tours. ■■ Bike About Tours. Shows an insiders look at the ‘city of light’ with local, English-speaking guides who have lived in Paris for years. This small bike tour company gives 3 tours everyday at 10am, 3pm, & 7pm from the Chalemagne statue in front of Notre Dame Cathedral. They stay away from the touristy Paris and show you the ‘real’ Paris. ■■ Context Paris. A network of scholars and specialists (architects, writers, historians, etc.) who lead small-group walking tours of Paris and excursions to other parts of France. A leader in sustainable travel, Context invests heavily in preservation initiatives in Paris and the six other cities where it operates. ■■ New Paris Free Walking Tour. Run by Sandemans New Europe group. Offers free walking tours (tip only basis) of both Paris - the major sights - and Montmarte. Conducted by English speaking guides - mostly Americans - who live, work, or study in Paris. ■■ In-line Skating. Every Friday night and Sunday afternoon (except when raining) hordes of in-line skaters take to the streets of Paris on a preplanned route, for about 3.5 hours. The trip is speedy you will have to negotiate some real slopes. You must be good at skating if you want to join. Even if you Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 40 don’t participate, find a cafe near the route and watch them fly by. EvEnts It seems like there’s almost always something happening in Paris, with the possible exceptions of the school holidays in August and February, when about half of Parisians are to be found not in Paris, but in the Alps or the South of France respectively. The busiest season is probably the fall, from a week or so after la rentrée scholaire or “back to school” to around Noël (Christmas) theatres, cinemas and concert halls book their fullest schedule of the year. Even so, there are a couple of annual events in the winter, starting with a furniture and interior decorating trade fair called Maison & Object in January. In February le Nouvel An Chinois (Chinese New Year) is celebrated in Paris as it is in every city with a significant Chinese population. There are parades in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements, and especially in Chinatown in the 13th south of Place d’Italie. Also in February is the Six Nations Rugby Tournament which brings together France, England, Ireland, Scotland, Wales and Italy. The first of two Fashion weeks occurs in March Spring Fashion Week giving designers a platform to present women’s Prêt-àPorter (ready to wear) collections for the following winter. The French Tennis Open parade, featuring probably the most sincere participation by the mayor’s office of any such parade on the globe. The French national holiday Bastille Day on the 14th of July celebrates the storming of the infamous Bastille during the July Revolution. Paris hosts several spectacular events that day of which the best known is the Bastille Parade which is held on the Champs-Élysées at 10am and broadcast to pretty much the rest of Europe by television. The entire street will be crowded with spectators so arrive early. The Bastille Day Fireworks is an exceptional treat for travelers lucky enough to be in town on Created for michael arrington Paris, France 41 Bastille Day. The Office du Tourisme et des Congress de Paris recommends gathering in or around the champs du Mars, the gardens of the Eiffel Tower. Also in July, Cinema en Plein Air . Also in July the cycling race le Tour de France both starts and ends in Paris. Its route varies annually, however it always finishes on the last Sunday of July under the Arc de Triomphe. On the last full weekend in August, a world-class music festival Rock en Seine draws international rock and pop stars to barges on the Seine near moored off of the 8th. During mid-September DJs and (usually young) fans from across Europe converge on Paris for five or six days of dancing etc. culminating in the Techno parade a parade whose route traces roughly from Pl. de Bastille to the Sorbonne, and around the same time the festival Jazz à la Villette brings some of the biggest names in contemporary jazz from around the world. The Nuit Blanche returns shortly thereafter showing off Women’s Prêt-à-Porter collections for the following summer; as we’ve noted winter collections are presented in March. moviEs The Cinémas of Paris are (or at least should be) the envy of the movie-going world. Of course, like anywhere else you can see big budget first-run films from France and elsewhere. That though, is just the start. During any given week there are at least half-a-dozen film festivals going on, at which you can see the entire works of a given actor or director. Meanwhile there are some older cult films like say, What’s new Pussycat or Casino Royal which you can enjoy pretty much any day you wish. Many non-French movies are subtitled (called “version originale” or “v/o”). Still it’s probably a good idea to be sure of a movie having subtitles if your French is not adequate to follow fast conversations. There are any number of ways to find out what’s playing, but the most commonly used guide is Pariscope, which you can find at Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 42 newstands for 0.40€. Meanwhile there are innumerable online guides which have information on “every” cinema in Paris. Be aware that most of the movies shown in France are dubbed to French. Some shows may have French subtitles. lEarn It should go without saying that Paris is a good place to learn French. ■■ Alliance Francaise. One of the world’s largest schools of French language, the Paris Alliance Française has a wide variety of courses for a visitor to choose from. ■■ Université Paris IV. Offers ‘scholastic’ as well as ‘university’ courses for foreigners in French language and culture, which start at various times of year. Paris is the seat of a great variety of higher education establishments. ■■ The American Library in Paris (5 minutes walking distance from the Eiffel Tower). A great place to visit in Paris is the American Library, this is a non-profit institution entirely dependent on donations in order to keep its doors open. Visitors can purchase a day pass or other short term memberships. The Library has WiFi and if you have your laptop then you can access the internet for no charge other than the day pass to use the library. It has excellent books, recent American magazines and the occasional celebrity patron. Work Work in Paris, especially from non-EU citizens entails a very long and arduous process. If you opt for unreported work, such as babysitting, you need not fret about going through the Green Card process. However, if you do choose a change in location, it is advisable to obtain the Green Card prior to finding any job whatsoever, as the process can be longer than expected. Before entering the city, one must obtain a visa from their local French Consulate French Embassy . The guidelines for Created for michael arrington Paris, France 43 particular visas can be found on the their website, and each differ depending on length of stay in France, and what exactly you will be doing while there. When applying for the visa make sure you have ALL your documents prior to your appointment at the French Consulate, otherwise the process, and inevitably, obtaining your visa will be delayed. Always make 2 copies of all the forms, and to have plenty of passport photos ready as the copies will be utilized in each step of the process. If you are going to work in France and are bringing a child along, also bring your child’s information for obtaining a visa. After obtaining a visa (usually a single-entry), you must go to your Local Parisian Prefecture as your single-entry visa will expire within 3 months of arrival, and the process in the country is just as long and arduous as the one at the Consulate. Expect to go there multiple times, and always have copies and copies of those copies. The French governmental system is notorious for losing papers, so always have the copies handy when you go for your follow up. When you finally do receive your Carte de Séjour, or the equivalent of a French green card, you are free to scope out jobs. Job listings, as anywhere, can be found in local magazines and newspapers. Another great place to look for jobs is online, whether using a Job Search Engine such as Monster . Remember, the city of Paris has a huge network of immigrants coming and going, and it is always great to tap into that network. The city holds a great abundance of work ready to be found, even if it feels nerve wracking at first. buy Paris is one of the great fashion centers of the Western world, up there with New York, London, and Milan, making it a shopper’s delight. While the Paris fashion scene is constantly evolving, the major shopping centres tend to be the same. High end couture can be found in the 8th arrondisement. In summer, there is nothing better than browsing the boutiques along Canal StMartin, or strolling along the impressive arcades of the historic Palais-Royal, with beautifully wrapped purchases swinging on each arm. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 44 A good note about Le Marais is that as it is a mostly Jewish neighborhood, most of the shops in Le Marais are open on Sundays. The stores in this area are intimate and boutique, manifesting as particularly “Parisian” style clothing stores. You will no doubt find something along each street, and is always well worth the look. Other great areas to shop around in are around the area Sèvres Babylone (Métro ligne 10 and ligne 12). It is in this area you will find afore mentioned Le Bon Marchée 7th, particularly rue de Cherche Midi 6th. The area houses some of the major fashion houses (Chanel, Jean Paul Gaultier, Versace, etc) and also has smaller private boutiques with handmade clothing. In the Quartier Saint-Germain-des-Prés, you can find a handful of vintage clothing shops, carrying anything from couture early 20th century dresses, to 70’s Chanel sunglasses. Walking along Boulevard Saint-Germain, you will find major brands. However, if in search of eclectic finds, opt to walk the northern side of the Boulevard, especially along rue Saint André des Arts, where you can always find a nice café to stop in. The area south of SaintGermain is just as nice, and comes with a price tag to match. FlEa markEts Paris has 3 main flea-markets, located on the outskirts of the central city. The most famous of these is the Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen (Porte de Clignancourt)(Clignancourt Flea Market) , Métro: Porte de Clignancourt, in the 18th, a haven for lovers of antiques, second-hand goods and retro fashion. The best days to go are Saturday and Sunday. Note that there are particular times of the week when only antique collectors are allowed into the stalls, and there are also times of the day when the stall owners take their Parisian Siesta, and enjoy a leisurely cappuccino for an hour or so. The best times to visit the Flea Markets are in the spring and summertime, when the area is more vibrant. musical instrumEnts Rue de Rome, situated near Gare St. Lazare, is crowded with luthiers, brass and woodwind makers, piano sellers, and sheet music stores. Subway station Europe. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 45 artWork For art lovers, be sure to check out Quartier Saint-Germain-desPrés, which is notorious for its galleries, and it is impossible to turn a street without finding a gallery to cast your glance in. On Fridays, most open until late. Most even have the benefit of bottles of wine so you can wander in with your glass of wine and feel very artistique. Great roads to walk along are rue de Seine, rue Jacob, rue des Beaux Arts, Rue Bonaparte, and Rue Mazarine. Eat Paris is one of Europe’s culinary centers. The restaurant trade began here just over 220 years ago and continues to thrive. It may however come as a surprise that Paris isn’t considered the culinary capitol of France, rather some people prefer the French cooking found in small rural restaurants, outside of the city, closer to the farms and with their focus on freshness and regional specialties. Even amongst French cities, Paris has long been considered by some people as second to Lyon for fine dining. There have been other challenges in the last 20 years or so as restaurateurs in places like San Francisco and Sydney briefly surpassed their Parisian fore bearers, again with an emphasis on freshness of ingredients but also borrowings from other cuisines. Parisian cooks didn’t just rest on their laurels during this time, rather they traveled, taught, and studied, and together with Paris’s own immigrant communities, have revitalized the restaurant trade. Today you can find hundreds of beautiful restaurants with thoughtful (or just trendy) interior design and well-planned and executed cartes and menus offering a creative mélange of French and exotic foreign cuisines. It’s safe to say that Paris is once again catching up with or edging ahead of its Anglophone rivals. Of course there are also some traditional offerings, and for the budget conscious there are hundreds of traditional bistros, with their sidewalk terraces offering a choice fairly simple (usually meat centered) meals for reasonable prices. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 46 For the uninitiated, it is unfortunately possible to have a uniformly poor dining experience during a stay in Paris, mainly because many attractions are situated in upscale areas of town, and that mass tourism attracts price gougers. It is frequent to hear of people complaining of very high Parisian prices for poor food and poor service, because they always tried to eat close to major tourist magnets. Try to go eat where the locals eat for good food and great service. Many restaurants are tiny and have tables close together - square meters are at a premium and understandably restaurateurs need to make the most of limited space. In some cases when the restaurant is crowded, you may have to sit besides strangers at the same table. If you disagree to it, go to a more upscale place where you will pay for increased room. Trendy restaurants often require reservations weeks, if not months in advance. If you haven’t planned far enough ahead, try to get a reservation for lunch which is generally easier and less expensive. For an easy-to-manage eating budget while in Paris, consider: breakfast or “petit dejeuner” at a restaurant, possibly in your hotel, consisting of some croissants, coffee, and maybe a piece of fruit (this typically costs around $5 to $10 depending on the area). Get a ‘walking lunch’ from one of Paris’ many food stands--a panino in the center of the city, a crepe from a crepe stand, a felafel pita or take-out Chinese in the Marais. Traiteurs serving Chinese food are ubiquitous in the city and good for a cheap lunch and many patisseries sell inexpensive coffee and sandwiches. All these are cheap (about the same as breakfast), easy, and allow you to maximize your sightseeing and walking time while enjoying delicious local or ethnic food. For dinner, stroll the streets at dusk and consider a 20-to-40-Euro prixfixe menu. This will get you 3 or 4 courses, possibly with wine, and an unhurried, candlelit, magical European evening. If you alternate days like this with low-budget, self-guided eating (picnicking, snacking, street food) you will be satisfied without breaking the bank. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 47 sElF catEring Budget travelers will be very pleased with the range and quality of products on offer at the open air markets (e.g. the biggest one on Boul Richard Lenoir (near the Bastille), Rue Mouffetard, Place Buci, Place de la Madeleine and over the Canal Saint-Martin in the 11th or in any other arrondissement). If your accommodation has cooking facilities you’re set, especially for wine and cheese, a decent bottle of French wine will set you back all of about €3-€5, while the very good stuff starts at around €7. Bottles for less than €3 are not recommended. Keep in mind that the small épiceries which open until late are more expensive than the supermarchés ( Casino, Monoprix, Franprix, etc). For wine, the price difference can be up to €2. A must do while in Paris is to buy a baguette, some cheese and a good bottle of wine and join the Parisian youth for a pique-nique along the Seine (especially on the Île Saint-Louis) or along the Canal Saint-Martin. The finest food stores are Lafayette Gourmet in the Galeries Lafayette or La Grande Epicerie in the luxury department store Le Bon Marché. They are worth discovering. You will find a large variety of wines there, otherwise try wine stores such as Nicolas or Le Relais de Bacchus (all over the city). somE sPEcialitiEs For seafood lovers, Paris is a great place to try moules frites (steamed mussels and French fries) (better in fall and winter), oysters, sea snails, and other delicacies. Meat specialties include venison (deer), boar, and other game (especially in the fall and winter hunting season), as well as French favourites such as lamb, veal, beef, and pork. PricEs Eating out in Paris can be expensive. However don’t believe people when they say you can’t do Paris on the cheap - you can! The key is to stay away from the beaten tracks and the obviously expensive Champs Elysees. Around the lesser visited quarters especially, there are many cheap and yummy restaurants to be found. The key is to order from the Prix-Fixe menu, and NOT off the A la Carte menu unless you want to pay an arm and a leg. In many places a three course meal can be found for about Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 48 15 euros, £10, $20. This way you can sample the food cheaply and is usually more “French”. Ask for “une carafe d’eau” (oon karaaf doe) to get free tap water. The best and cheapest way to get around Paris is on foot, and secondly, using the Metro which is around one euro ten cents for a one way trip of any length. In the artsy quarters of 1 and 4, there are many bargains to be had once again, if you are prepared to look. Souvenirs are easily found and can be really inexpensive as long as you don’t buy from the tourist sites. For cheap books of French connection, try the University/Latin quarter as they sell books in all languages starting from half a euro each. koshEr dining Paris has the largest number of Kosher restaurants in any European city. Walk up and down Rue des Rosiers to see the variety and choices available from Israeli, Sushi, Italian and others. vEgEtarian dining For vegetarians, eating traditional French food will require some improvisation, as it is heavily meat-based. For fast food and snacks, you can always find a vegetarian sandwich or pizza. Even a kebab shop can make you something with just cheese and salad, or perhaps falafel. Paris has several excellent vegetarian restaurants. Look for spots such as Aquarius in the 4th, and Le Grenier de Notre-Dame in the 5th, or La Victoire Suprême du Coeur in the 1st just to name a few. See the arrondissement pages for more listings. There are also lots of Italian, Thai, Indian, and Mezo-american places where you will have little problem. In Rue des Rosiers (4th arrondissement) you can get delicious falafel in the many Jewish restaurants. Another place to look for falafel is on Rue Oberkampf (11th arrondissement). Take away falafel usually goes for 4€ or less. Moroccan and Algerian cooking is common in Paris - vegetarian couscous is lovely. Another good option for vegetarians - are traiteurs, particularly around Ledru Rollin (down the road from Created for michael arrington Paris, France 49 Bastille) take away food where you can combine a range of different options such as pomme dauphinoise, dolmas, salads, vegetables, nice breads and cheeses and so on. Lebanese restaurants and snack shops abound as well, offering a number of vegetarian mezze, or small plates. The standbys of course are hummas, falafel, and baba-ganouche (caviar d’aubergine). A good place to look for Lebanese is in the pedestrian zone around Les Halles and Beaubourg in the 1st and 4th. tourists and locals When you are looking for a restaurant in Paris, be a little careful of those where the staff readily speak English. These restaurants are usually - but not always - geared towards tourists. It does make a difference in the staff ’s service and behaviour whether they expect you to return or not. Sometimes the advertised fixed price tourist menus (€10-€15) are a good deal. If you’re interested in the really good and more authentic stuff (and if you have learned some words of French) try one of the small bistro where the French go to during lunch time. drink The bars scene in Paris really does have something for everyone. From bars which serve drinks in babies bottle, to ultra luxe clubs that require some name dropping, or card (black Amex) showing, and clubs where you can dance like no one’s watching, (although they will be). To start your night out right, grab a drink or two in a ubiquitous dive bar, before burning up the dance floor and spreading some cash, at one of the trendy clubs. St Martin. Many cozy cafés and other drinking establishments abound around the Canal St Martin in the 10th. ■■ The Marais. The Marais boasts a large number of trendier new bars mostly in the 4th and to a lesser extent the 3rd with a few old charmers tossed into the mix. A number of bars and restaurants in the Marais have a decidedly gay crowd, but are usually perfectly friendly to straights as well. Some ■■ Canal Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 50 seem to be more specifically aimed at up-and-coming hetero singles. ■■ Bastille. There is a very active nightlife zone just to the northeast of Place de Bastille centered around rue de Lappe, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine (especially the amazing Club Barrio Latino) and rue de Charonne in the 11th. Many of the bars closest to Bastille have either a North, Central, or South American theme, with a couple of Aussie places mixed in for good measure, and as you continue up rue de Charonne the cafés have more of a traditionally French but grungy feeling. ■■ Quartier Latin - Odeon. If you’re looking for the nouvelle vogue style, student and intellectual atmosphere of Paris in the 60s and 70s, you’ll find a lot of that (and more hip + chique) places in the quartier Latin and between place Odeon and the Seine. The neighborhood is also home of many small artsy cinemas showing non-mainstream films and classics (check ‘Pariscope’ or ‘l’officiel du spectacle’ at any newspaper stand for the weekly programme). ■■ Rue Mouffetard and environs. The area in the 5th on the south side of the hill topped by the Panthéon has a little bit of everything for the nighthawk, from the classy cafés of Place de la Contrescarpe to an Irish-American dive bar just down the way to a hip, nearly hidden jazz café at the bottom of the hill. ■■ Châtelet. In some ways the Marais starts here in the 1st between Les Halles and Hôtel de Ville but with between all of the tourists and the venerable Jazz clubs on rue des Lombards the area deserves some special attention. ■■ Montmartre. You’ll find any number of cozy cafés and other drinking establishments all around the Butte de Montmartre in the 18th, especially check out rue des Abesses near the Métro station of the same name. ■■ Oberkampf-Ménilmontant. If you are wondering where you can find the hipsters (bobos for bohemian-bourgeois), then look no further. There are several clusters of grungy-hip bars all along rue Oberkampf in the 11th, and stretching well into the 20th up the hill on rue de Ménilmontant. It’s almost like being in San Francisco’s Haight-Fillmore district. ■■ Rues des Dames-Batignolles. Another good place to find the grungy-chic crowd is the northern end of the 17th around rue des Dames and rue de Batignolles, and if you decide you Created for michael arrington Paris, France 51 want something a little different Montmartre is just around the corner. ■■ Port de Tolbiac. This previously deserted stretch of the river Seine in the 13th was re-born as a center for nightlife (and Sunday-afternoon-life) a few years ago when an electronic music cooperative opened the Batofar. Nowadays there are a number of boats moored along the same quai, including a boat with a Caribbean theme, and one with an Indian restaurant. ■■ Saint Germain des Prés. This area boasts two of the most famous cafés in the world: Café de Flore and Les Deux Magots, both catering to the tourists and the snobs who can afford their high prices. This part of the 6th is where the Parisian café scene really started, and there still are hundreds of places to pull up to a table, order a glass, and discuss Sartre deep into the evening. For individual bar listings see the various Arrondissement pages under Get around. Of course there are lots of interesting places which are sort of off on their own outside of these clusters, including a few like the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz which are not to be missed in a serious roundup of Parisian drinking, so check out the listings even in those arrondissements we haven’t mentioned above. Some nightclubs in Paris that are worth it: Folies Pigalle (pl. Pigalle, 18th, very trash, famous for its after, 20 euros), Rex Club (near one of the oldest cinema on earth, the Grand Rex, house/electro, about 15 euros cheap). You might also want to try Cabaret (Palais Royal), Maison Blanche, le Baron (M AlmaMarceau). Remember when going out to dress to impress, you are in Paris! Torn clothing and sneakers are not accepted. The better you look the most likely you will get past the random decisions of club bouncers. Also important to remember if male (or in a group of guys) that it will be more difficult to enter clubs, try to always have an equal male/female ratio. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 52 slEEP Generally one should be aware that Paris hotels, almost without regard to category or price, observe high and low seasons. These differ slightly from one hotel to another, but usually the high season roughly corresponds to late spring and summer, and possibly a couple of weeks around the Christmas season. Be aware that when a hotel is listed in any guide or website this will eventually make it a bit harder to get a room at that hotel. That means that you will probably need to book ahead, especially in the high season. However, if they don’t have a room they sometimes know another place close by that does have a room available. When with two it can be a much better deal to find a hotel room than to get 2 hostel beds. More privacy for less money. For individual hotel listings see the various Arrondissement pages under Get around. For those who are staying for a while renting a furnished apartment might be a more comfortable and money-saving option. Furnished apartments differ considerably in quality, so it is important to choose carefully. There are a huge number of websites in the business of helping you find one, but most charge a steep commission of 10% or more. There are however a couple of considerably cheaper non-profit options which for whatever reason do not turn up near the top of a Google search: ■■ Allô Logement Temporaire, 64, rue du Temple (Métro: Hôtel de Ville or Rambuteau). This non-profit apartment placement association will place you in contact with an apartment owner, and provide translation service if necessary. They charge an annual fee of 50€ for renters, plus €35 per months you actually stay in Paris. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 53 hotEl chains ■■ Accor Hotels in Paris. The hotels Sofitel, Novotel, Mercure, Ibis, Formule 1 and Etaphotel in Paris (the latter can be very reasonable) ■■ Louvre Hotels in Paris. The hotels Campanile, Kyriad, Kyriad Prestige, and Premiere Classe in Paris (the latter can be very reasonable) crimE Crime in Paris is similar to most large cities, but violent crime is uncommon in the heart of the city. Pickpockets are active on the rail link (RER) from Charles de Gaulle airport to downtown Paris and on the number one metro (subway) line that cuts across the city center east to west servicing many of the major tourist sites. A common scheme is for one thief to distract the tourist with questions or disturbance while an accomplice picks pockets, a backpack or purse. Thieves often time their crime to coincide with the closing of the automatic doors on the metro, leaving the victim secured on the departing train. Many thefts also occur at the major department stores (Galeries Lafayette, Printemps) where tourists leave wallets, passports and credit cards on cashier counters during transactions. Popular tourist sites are also popular hunting grounds for thieves who favour congested areas to mask their activities. The crowded elevators at the Eiffel Tower, escalators at museums and the area around the Sacre Cœur church in Montmartre are all favoured by pickpockets and snatch-and-run thieves. The area around the famous Moulin Rouge is known as Pigalle and best avoided after dark unless with a tour group headed for a show. Pigalle is an adult entertainment area known for prostitutes, sex shows and drugs. Unsuspecting tourists often run up exorbitant bar bills and are forced to pay before being permitted to leave. The Marché aux Puces (Les Puces) flea market is virtually designed to make pickpocketing easy and gangs can be witnessed spotting victims. Walkways are often crowded, narrow, dark, with no way out except to wait for the extraordinarily-slow walkers to move. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 54 However, there are some areas, like Barbès (18th), where it’s better not to hang around alone at night. In these areas, a lot depends on the way you behave and if you know how to adapt to the situation. If you know what you are looking for, speak some French and feel comfortable, there is no problem strolling around a neighborhood like Barbès. Also some parts of the banlieue are better to avoid, but the banlieue is, except for a very few tourist spots (Fontainebleau, Versailles, Basilique de St. Denis) not a place where the ordinary tourist will go anyway. The metro is relatively safe, but again, pickpockets do work in the stations and on the trains especially near tourist destinations. If you are carrying a bag make sure that it’s closed tightly. If you have a wallet in your pocket keep a hand on it while entering or exiting the trains. Don’t carry any more cash than you can afford to lose. Keep your cash on different parts of your body: some in your money belt, some in your purse/wallet, some in your shoe. Keep the contents of your purse/wallet to the bare essentials: money, one debit/credit card, I.D., emergency contact information, medical I.D. When you have to access your money belt, do so in private. Recent news reports have highlighted new tactics by thieves, targeting taxis on their way into the city from Charles de Gaulle airport. Thieves wait for the taxi to be stopped in the usual traffic jam along the A1 highway and break windows to get to the passengers’ bags. To avoid this, you may place your bags in the trunk of the taxi or take the very safe Air France shuttle. You should also beware of illegal taxis. At least one young foreign tourist has been murdered after getting into a car that was not - as she’d believed - an official Parisian taxi. Beware also of distraught-looking women and children asking if you can speak English. You’ll be presented with a card or letter with a story explaining something like “My mother is in hospital in another country terminally ill. I’m stuck in Paris with no money and I need to visit her.” You´ll encounter them at the major train and Métro stations (they are especially prevalent in and around Gare du Nord and Châtelet-Les Halles) and also at most major tourist attractions. Even on the Champs-Élysées. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 55 They are also prevalent around the Arc de Triomphe near the Embassy of Qatar. Some Parisian restaurants, particularly in the tourist-laden Latin Quarter, make a living ripping off tourists who are hampered by a language barrier. When ordering, particularly if ordering a “menu” or prix-fixe meal, point to the actual menu item and ensure you repeat the price. Eye contact works wonders, as does a modicum of conversational French. If the bill does not conform to what you order, complain and leave the restaurant without paying if this does not work. Beware of touristy areas where there are gamling stands with people playing. They are more than likely to be accompliances of the person manning the booth. They usually play with 3 black rubber coins to guess the one with a white piece of paper stuck underneath. You can never win at that as they swtich hands and do not let you open it yourself. If you ever get cheated there, shout at them loudly and refuse to let them go as they usually operate in crowded places. Another thing to be wary of is people asking where do you come from with strings in their hand. They will make small talk with you while tying a friendship band around your finger. After that they will demand money from you. Be aware that there are hefty fines for littering in Paris. Since 2007, it is strictly forbidden to smoke in enclosed areas (train stations, subway stations, buildings), and since 1 Jan 2008, smoking is not permitted in restaurants and bars, exepct for outside seating areas. rEsPEct Paris has, in many respects, an atmosphere closer to that of New York than to that of London, Lyon, or any other European town; that is, hurried, and businesslike. Parisians have a reputation for being rude and arrogant. Some of their reputation for brusqueness may stem from the fact that they are constantly Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 56 surrounded by tourists, who can sometimes themselves seem rude and demanding. This is not to say that Parisians are, by nature, rude. On the contrary: there are a considerable number of rules defining what is rude and what is polite in Parisian interpersonal relationships; if anything, the Parisians are more polite than most (This should be no surprise, though, when one considers the fact that “etiquette” is a French word). Thus, the best way to get along in Paris is to be on your best behavior, acting like someone who is “bien élevé” (well brought up) will make getting about considerably easier. Parisians’ abrupt exteriors will rapidly evaporate if you display some basic courtesies. A simple “Bonjour, Madame” when entering a shop, for example, or “Excusez-moi” when trying to get someone’s attention, or very important; say “Pardon” if you bump into someone accidentally or make other mistakes, will transform the surliest shop assistant into a smiling helper or the grumpiest inhabitant to an helpful citizen. Courtesy is extremely important in France (where the worst insult is to call someone “mal élevé”, or “badly brought up”). A particularly useful phrase to know is “Pardonezmoi de vous déranger, monsieur/madame, mais auriez-vous la gentilesse de m’aider?” (pardon me for bothering you, sir/ madam, but would you have the kindness to help me?) - it’s about the closest one can come to a magic wand for unlocking Parisian hospitality. If you know some French, try it! Like city dwellers everywhere, Parisians generally expect people to speak in a measured voice when in a crowded place. They are likely to look down on people who talk very loudly in a train or subway car. Keep in mind that the people around you in the Métro are not on vacation, in general: they are going to or coming back from work and thus may not appreciate another source of headache. In addition, if you are travelling to or from the airport or train station and have luggage with you, make certain that you are not blocking the aisles in the train by leaving your bags on the floor. The RER B (which links both Orly and Charles de Gaulle airports to the city) has luggage racks above the seats; it is advised that you use them so you do not block the path of a local who is getting off the train before the airport stop. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 57 Also bear in mind that the vast majority of the Parisian population are not in any way connected to the tourism business. You are not in a resort or theme park, with paid personnel meant to give you directions around, but in a city where people have to get on with their lives. But if you ask politely, most of the French will help you if they can. contact One helpful thing about having official and numbered districts in Paris is that you can easily tell which arrondissement an address is in by its postal code, and can easily come up with the postal code for a Paris address if you know its arrondissement. The rule is just pre-pend 750 or 7500 to the front of the arrondissement number, with 75001 being the postal code for the 1st and 75011 being the postal code for the 11th, and so on. coPE Although known as the fashion capital, Paris is actually quite conservative in dress. So if you go out in bright colors expect to be stared at, especially dressed like so in certain arrondissements such as 9th and 18th where you may attract unwanted attention of an evening. Phone cards are available from most “Tabacs” but make sure you know where to use them when you buy them, as some places still sell the cartes cabines which are hard to work, and cabines are rare. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 58 gEt out - The 12th century cathedral of Notre Dame at Chartres is one of the highlights of Gothic architecture. ■■ Versailles - On the SW edge of Paris, the site of the Sun King Louis XIV’s magnificent palace. ■■ Saint Denis - On the northern edge of the metropolis, site of the Stade de France and St Denis Abbey, burial place of French royalty. ■■ Chantilly - Wonderful 17th century palace and gardens (and the birthplace of whipped cream). ■■ Giverny - The inspirational house and gardens of the Impressionist painter Claude Monet are but a day-trip away. ■■ Disneyland Resort Paris - In the suburb of Marne-la-Vallée, to the east of Paris, from where it can be reached by car, train, or bus (the train is probably your best bet). ■■ Parc Astérix - North of Paris, may be reached via a shuttle bus from CDG Airport. París Paris Parizo París Pariisi Paris Párizs Parigi ?? Parijs Paryz Paris Paris Paris Paris Europe/France/Regions/Ile-de-France/Paris/ europe/france/paris Paris Paris ■■ Chartres Created for michael arrington Paris, France 59 {{title-iconsdotm-icon} Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 60 paris/1st arrondissement The center of contemporary Paris and the site of the Louvre and secondary palaces of the Tuileries and Palais-Royal, the 1st Arrondissement is full of attractions for travelers of all inclinations, including some of the finest parks, museums, shops, and bars in the city. The 1st occupies the Right Bank of the River Seine and extends onto the western section of the Île de la Cité in the midst of the river. For occupying such a compact space, however the 1st feels remarkably different from one end to the other. The almost incredibly upscale western end of the arrondissement gives way to the hustle and bustle of the big city east of the Palais Royal, and then further east to the pedestrian (and tourist) dominated area around Les Halles and the (currently shuttered) Samaritaine, where tourists mix with (especially young) Parisiens and Parisiennes in huge numbers (on the order of 800,000 unique visitors per day according to the Mayor’s office). undErstand Paris was historically centered on the Ile de la cité, but by the time Baron von Hausmann was given the task of dividing the city, the center had shifted somewhat to the previously suburban Royal Quarter surrounding the Louvre and the Palais Royal. gEt in Travelers arriving at one of the airports will probably get in via the RER-B line at the formidable Métro station Châtelet/Les Halles, read on for details. by ‘’métro’’ Châtelet/Les Halles, the hub for the 1 and D lines is the largest and busiest of all Métro stations. There exists a total of seven entrances/exits scattered around the eastern end of the 1st Arrondissement, concentrated (not surprisingly) between Les Halles and Place du Châtelet, and also accessing the basement of the Les Halles shopping mall itself. If you are in a hurry—or have never used this station previously—it might be better to alight Created for michael arrington Paris, France 61 one Métro stop earlier or later. Of course, if you are transferring to or traveling on one of the RER lines, brace yourself. Châtelet/ Les Halles is a French equivalent for New York City’s Grand Central Station. Line 1 line crosses travels the length of the arrondissement, arriving from Chateau de Vincinnesin the east via Gare de Lyon, and La Défence in the west. Most of the stations are fairly easy to use with the exception of Châtelet/Les-Halles. If you have a choice go for Palais-Royale/Musée-de-Louvre or Tuileries. Line 14 line is the newest metro line, and probably the best way to arrive from Gare de Lyon, and thus from Switzerland or the South of France since it is a fully automated express train. Think of it as a sort of a horizontal elevator. It stops at Châtelet/ Les-Halles and Pyramides. Line 7 cuts diagonally across from the northwest to the southeast or the other way depending on how you look at it. Entering from the southwest (perhaps Gare d Austerlitz) you’ll want to get off at Pont Neuf. Line 4 runs north and south through the east end of the arrondissement, mostly under Châtelet. Again, we prefer the Cité or Etienne-Marcel stops to the Châtelet madness. All four RER lines cross the arrondissement and stop at Chatelet/ Les-Halles. gEt around Having arrived in the 1st arrondissement walking will most likely suffice for transport. That said, Paris cabs are quite cheap. Still, even they don’t have access to much of the carfree eastern end of the arrondissement. If traveling from east to west by Métro you are probably best off using any other stations than Châtelet/Les Halles unless you have to connect there. Although the Métro trains themselves are fast and frequent, the crowded labyrinth at Châtelet can make getting to the trains an adventure. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 62 landmarks ■■ Le Louvre (Métro: Palais Royal/Louvre). Open daily except Tuesdays and certain public holidays. Permanent collections 9 am to 6 pm (Wed and Fri til 10 pm). Under the pyramid is open 9 am to 10 pm. The primary landmark of the 1st arrondissement: as well as housing one of the world’s great museums since 1793, the former palace offers some dazzling architecture, wide public spaces and the glass pyramid of I M Pei. Of course there’s also quite a bit to see inside the building see our coverage under Museums below. ■■ Jardin des Tuileries (Métro: Tuileries). Originally adjoining the now-disappeared royal palace of the Tuileries, these gardens lying immediately west of the Louvre offer a central open space for Parisians and visitors with semi-formal gardens (an outdoor gallery for modern sculpture), various cafés, ice-cream and crépe stalls and a summer fun fair. The gardens are frequently home to a giant ferris wheel and enclose the Musée de la Orangerie and the Jeu de Paume (see below). ■■ Colonne Vendôme (Métro: Opéra). The centerpiece of a magnificent 8-sided square first laid out in 1699 to show off an equestrian statue of the Sun King, Louis XIV. The statue was removed amidst Revolutionary fervor in 1792 and replaced in 1806 with the Colonne de la Grande Armée. This was modeled on Trajan’s column in Rome and decorated with Napoleon’s military exploits. The present column is a replica, however, as the original was pulled down during the 1871 Paris Commune. Place Vendôme represents the best of well-heeled Paris, being home to an abundance of exclusive boutiques, jewelers and fashion labels - Cartier, Boucheron, Trussardi, van Cleef & Arpels - several banks, the French Ministry of Justice and the Ritz Hotel. ■■ Le Palais Royal. 730pm in the winter with hours varying in the spring and Autumn months. Ordered by Cardinal de Richelieu (1585-1642), King Louis XIIIth’s prime Minister in 1629 (completed in 1636) originally called Palais Cardinal it became Le Palais Royal when Anne d’Autriche, Louis XIIIth’s wife, came to live here to get away from the Louvre palace. It eventually housed Louis the XIVth until the move to Versailles. It includes also a beautiful garden Les jardins du Pal- Created for michael arrington Paris, France 63 ais Royal, enclosed within the buildings. It’s been the theater of one of the seminal events of the French Revolution (Camille Desmoulins made a famous declaration here in 1789). The Théatre Français nearby was built in 1716. There are numerous restaurants inside the garden , including famous Le Grand Véfour. There’s also the controversial Colonnes de Buren, striped columns installed within the inside yard among the XVIIth century architecture. ■■ Saint Eustache (Located near Les Halles and the Bourse de Commerce). This massive church is one of the best standing examples of the early Gothic style. ■■ Sainte Chapelle, 4 blvd du Palais (Métro: Cité). Soaring stained glass windows beaming ample light onto the rich primary colors of the tile mosaics on the floor, this photogenic church was built by the French kings to house the relics of the Crown of Thorns - far more beautiful than the famous, but gloomy, Notre Dame which is nearby. The chapelle is located inside the Courts of Justice, there will thus be a security check. ■■ La Conciergerie (Métro: Cité). open daily 9.30am - 6.30pm April - September daily 10 am - 5 pm October - March, entry €6.10, concessions and guided tours available, under-18s free - the ancient medieval fortress and prison of the city’s island, site of some remarkable medieval royal architecture and the scene of Marie Antoinette’s imprisonment in the period leading to her execution in 1793 - lots of Revolutionary associations. musEums and gallEriEs ■■ Musée du Louvre, Place du Carrousel (Métro: Louvre). open daily 10am-6pm, closed Tuesdays and some public holidays, evening openings We and Fr until 9.45pm, 1st Su of the month. Free admission for all, general admission (not including special exhibitions) adults €8.50, evening openings adults €6, special exhibition €8.50 combined ticket (museum + special exhibition) adults €13, evening openings €11 Carte Musée. On a par with London’s British Museum and New York’s Metropolitan Museum, the Louvre is a showcase of world cultures throughout history. Its exhibits come from such diverse origins as ancient Egypt, classical Greece and Rome, medieval Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 64 Europe and Napoleonic France. Its most famous exhibit, of course, is Leonardo da Vinci’s painting of the Mona Lisa (French: La Joconde, Italian: La Gioconda), generally to be found surrounded by hordes of camera-flashing tourists. If you want to see everything in the Louvre, plan at least two full days. However, it is better to pick and choose, as the collection was assembled with an eye to completeness rather than quality. ■■ l’Orangerie. open daily, except Tu, Christmas Day and 1st May individuals 12.30pm-7pm, until 9pm Th groups 9.30am12.30pm admission €6.50 adults, concessions €4.50, special exhibition + €1.20 audio guides available in several languages €4.50 / €3 - recently reopened after extensive renovations, this small museum near the Louvre houses the Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume Collection, sold to the French Republic on very generous terms and numbering 143 paintings from the late 19th century and the first half of the 20th century (15 Cézannes, 24 Renoirs, 10 Matisses, 12 Picassos, 28 Derains, 22 Soutines… ). The collection joined the eight immense Water Lilies that Monet gave France in 1922 and which have been displayed since 1927 in two huge oval rooms purpose-built on the artist’s instructions. ■■ Jeu de Paume (northwestern corner of the Jardin des Tuileries). Built during the First Empire, in imitation of the Orangerie this small building is used by the Galerie Nationale to mount shows dedicated to lesser known, but nonetheless interesting artists, or (sometimes) the lesser known works of the Great Masters. This museum once housed many of the Impressionist painters that are now to be found in the Musée d’Orsay on the other side of the River Seine. ■■ Musée des Arts décoratifs, 107, rue de Rivoli. Around the corner from the Musée du Louvre at Rue de Rivoli 107 - monument to the French art de vivre, housed in a 19th-century wing of the Louvre that has been restored to Beaux-Arts splendor, its galleries and period rooms showcasing eight centuries of Gallic taste in interior decoration. Created for michael arrington Paris, France 65 do One of the great joys of a visit to Paris is to simply walk around and explore to get the feel of the city. The 1st is as good a place to start as any, with the largely car-free section around Les Halles, and the right bank of the river Seine as good places to start. As a little bonus if you are in Paris in the summer time, the express lanes at river level are converted to an all pedestrian road called “Paris Plage” which fills with rollerbladers and sun-bathers just about every afternoon. A number of Paris theaters are located in the eastern end of the 1st. English language productions are not unheard of, but the opera is likely to be in Italian anyhow. Your best bet if you are interested in finding a show in either language is to pick up a copy of Pariscope which you can find at any newsstand for around 0.50€. There are ticket outlets at Forum Les Halles(FNAC) among other locations. buy ■■ Forum les Halles (Métro: Les Halles). Open daily from 9am to 7pm. In the late 1960s what was Paris’ primary farmers’ market moved out to the suburbs to be replaced by a park above ground, and a sprawling underground shopping center below. The interior design is strikingly period (think Logan’s Run). The place is showing its age now, but still draws nearly a half-million parisien/ennes per day, mostly teenagers. There’s a movie theater and a media library too. ■■ Rue Montorgueil (Métro: Les Halles or Etienne-Marcel). To the north and west of Les Halles almost all of the streets are car-free including this one, on which you can find a wide range of food shops including two great bakers, a fish market, and a bio organic foods store. ■■ Le Carrousel du Louvre. A diverse underground shopping precinct adjoining the Louvre Museum. ■■ W.H. Smith, 248 rue de Rivoli (Métro: Concorde). Monday through Saturday 930pm. The largest English language bookshop in Paris carries many of the newest releases. Monday ■■ Colette, 213 rue Saint-Honoré (Métro: Tuileries). through Saturday 1100pm. One of the most interesting shop- Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 66 ping experiences anywhere, an eclectic collection of design, fashion, gadgets and music ■■ Librairie Galgnani, 224 rue Rivoli (Métro : Concorde). British & American bookshop, specialized in fine arts. Eat The 1st provides rather a wide range of eating possibilities, considering its central location and overall poshness. A large variety of inexpensive food is sold out of windows and stalls, especially on the car-free east end of the arrondissement near Les Halles. You’ll always pay a bit more to sit down, of course. On the other hand if you are looking for a nice posh place to take your mom or a date there are plenty, and some of them actually have food that is good enough to be worth the considerable prices. budgEt ■■ La Crypte Polska, place Maurice Barrés (Métro: Concorde). Noon-3pm and 7pm to 10pm. Closed Monday. Believe it or not this little Polish restaurant is in the crypt under the church of Our Lady of the Assumption, and the Catholic-mystic decor alone makes a visit worthwhile. Plus the pirogies are about as good as you are going to find in Paris. Expect to pay 12 to 20€ per person for the whole meal. ■■ Lemoni Café (Métro: Palais Royal). mid-rangE ■■ Café Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli / cour Napoléon du Louvre (Métro: Palais Royal). Open daily 8 am - 2 pm. Part of the Grand Louvre redevelopment, Café Marly was opened in 1994 and is situated within the balcony on the northern terrace of the Cour Napoléon. Patrons can enjoy the direct views of the Louvre Pyramid whilst sitting back in comfortable chairs, watching tourists stroll by whilst supping on slightly / not outrageously above-average-price brasserie selections (you’re paying a premium for the location!)-- Especially rec- Created for michael arrington Paris, France 67 ommended : Sunday morning Brunch! Stunning view in the rising sun. ■■ Aux Trois Oliviers, 37 bis rue de Montpensier (Métro: Palais Royal-Louvre). This colorful and non-pretentious restaurant offers a range of dishes from throughout France and around the world. The mojitos are said to be quite good, as is the wine list. There’s live entertainment (chansons français) each Friday night. Expect to spend around 15€ per person at lunch or 20€ at night. ■■ Chez Denise, 5 rue Prouvaires (Métro: Les Halles). Tues-Sun: noon-200am. Starters are from 10-12€ and main courses are 18-25€, then there’s the wine. ■■ La Robe et le Palais, 13 rue des Lavandieres Sainte Opportune. Mon-Sat: noon-1400. A small restaurant serving mostly tasty Basque food. Fantastic choice of wines. sPlurgE ■■ Point Bar, 40 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré (Métro: Opéra or Pyramides). Alice Bardet, the daughter of a famous French chef de cuisine, Jean Bardet, has provided a prime example of great French restauranteering for the rest of us as a way of making her own name in the business. She is said to have grown up in her parent’s restaurant, and has brought the style, the techniques, and a feeling for quality ingredients along. Lunchtime Menus start at just 15€, but the prices move toward the splurge category at night when you’ll spend around 40€ per person ordering à la carte. ■■ Maceo, 15, rue des Petits Champs (Métro: Pyramides). What was once just a great wine bar with decent food has become a must-visit restaurant with the addition of star chef Thierry Bourbonnais. The second-empire atmosphere sets the stage for the fantastic food, making this a great value for a not terribly pricey splurge. Starters run 13-18€ and main courses are 25-28€. There’s even a Vegetarian menu for around 30€. drink ■■ Bar Hemingway, 15 Place Vendôme (Métro: Pyramides). Hemingway tried to drink here once per week even before he made it. Afterwords it was his favorite: when in August Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 68 of 1944 Hemingway made a booze-powered drive into Paris ahead of the advancing Free French 2nd tank division it was to “liberate the Ritz”, and specifically the bar which was shortly thereafter re-named in his honor. Today the bar is considered by many to be one of the best bars in the world, in no small part due to the bar-tending skills of Colin Field, who creates elaborate cocktails as a fine art, and with the rest of the staff is skilled at bringing his guests together in conversation. ■■ Le Comptoir Paris-Marrakech, 37, rue Berger (Métro: Les Halles). A swank drinking and people watching spot on a corner across from the park above Les Halles. There are nice stuffed couches all over the room, and meze snacks are served. The place picks up speed a bit in the evening, attracting quite a mixed crowd. ■■ Le Cab, 2, Place du Palais Royal (Métro: Palais Royal/Louvre). Featuring several spaces for divergent tastes, the Cabaret has an all white Easy-Listener space, a tropical cabana, a gigantic dance floor and more. The sounds vary from hip-hop to house to R’n’B. Expect to pay 8€ for beer and 13€ for a mixed drink, assuming the bouncers let you in. ■■ Café Oz, 18, rue Saint Denis. You probably didn’t think you were coming to Paris to sample Australian culture, but if after a long day of strolling from one end of the city to another you would just like to let go a bit and meet up with some fellow Anglophones then you could do a lot worse than this almost legendarily hard-partying Aussie joint (ask the neighbors). Warning: as with other Aussie places in Paris for some reason, weekend nights here tend to bring out hoards of young single Frenchmen looking to chat up some (any) visiting anglophonette. This has been known to lead to, um, confrontations. ~7€ Pints. ■■ Juvénile’s, 47 rue Richelieu. Nice wine + tapas bar cum wine shop : nice food, nice wines from around the world, & you can buy a bottle to take home if you like it! ■■ Willi’s Wine Bar, 13 rue des Petits Champs. It’s actually a restaurant and is more upscale than ‘Juvéniles’, serving good food and good to great bottles of wines (Beaujolais, Australian...but no Bordeaux: The landlord is quoted as saying “I Created for michael arrington Paris, France 69 don’t believe in Bordeaux”. Great cheeses & deserts (yummy crumble)) Reservation recommended. slEEP Some of the most opulent hotels in the world are located either in or very close to the 1st arrondissement, and there’s some choice in the mid-range. Budget travelers, on the other hand are probably better off in other, less central parts of town. contact The 1st arrondissement postal code is 75001. intErnEt caFés La Baguenaude, 30, rue Grande-Truanderie (Métro: Les Halles). This all SUSE Linux shop offers 1/2 hour (2.30€), hour (3.80€), and 2 hour (6.10€) time slots. They also offer courses in the use of KDE and the Gimp (in French of course). WirElEss hotsPots There are a number of cafés in each arrondissement which offer Free wireless for drinking customers (for 20 minutes at a time). Here are a couple in the first: ■■ Le Commerce, 12, rue Coquillère (Métro: Etienne Marcel). Flottes, 2, rue Cambon (Métro: Concorde). ■■ Tabac du Châtelet, 8, rue Saint Denis (Métro: Châtelet). ■■ Café du Pont Neuf, 14, quai du Louvre (Métro: Pont Neuf ). ■■ Chez A complete listing is available from the company which provides the service: ■■ HotCafe, 56, rue du Temple. Phone support available from 9am to 10pm. Of course many hotels also offer wireless connectivity, but usually for a fee. Paris/1er arrondissement Parijs/1e_arrondissement Ier arrondissement Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 70 Paris {{title-iconsstar-icon} Created for michael arrington Paris, France 71 paris/2nd arrondissement The 2nd Arrondissement of Paris is one of the financial centers of Europe, being home to the Bourse (Stock exchange) and thus the CAC 40 index you hear about in world financial news. Other major activities in the neighborhood are journalism and fashion. The 2nd is also home to the galleries -- covered passages lined with shops -- which are quite possibly the prototypes of today’s shopping malls. While the aforementioned are all daylight activities the eastern end of the arrondissement has an entirely different reputation, having been home to Paris’ red-light district since sometime in the early renaissance. ‘’by métro’’ The 2nd Arrondissement is well served by Métro lines, being right in the middle of the city. Line 8 runs right across the northern edge of the arrondissement with stops every 200 meters or so. Take your pick, all of the stations are small, and unless you’re making a connection just as good as another. The line connects to the 12th and the 7th arrondisements. Line 3 runs east-west right through the center of the arrondissement, down rue Quatre Septembre and rue Réaumur. musEums Etc. ■■ la Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Richelieu, 58 rue Richelieu (Métro: Bourse or Palais-Royal). Especially try to visit the cabinet des Médailles. architEcturE The 2nd arrondissement covers some of the nicest old parts of Paris. Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 72 ■■ Place des Victoires. Beautiful round ‘square’ with an equestrian statue of King Louis the XIVth and matching XVIIth century buildings. ■■ Notre Dame des Victoires. XVIIth century church, history There have been dozens of attempts by various regimes at all levels including the city, the state and the church to chase the ladies of “love for a price” away from the eastern end of the second arrondissement, but for some reason they always come back. Interestingly, the word “bordello” originates here from the boards that the women used to subdivide the rooms they rented in houses along the rue Saint Denis and others. The press has had nearly as long a run in the neighborhood just to the west, and several of France’s major newspapers still maintain offices here. ■■ La Tour Jean-sans-Peur, 20 rue Étienne-Marcel (Métro: Étienne-Marcel). One of the last reminants of medieval Paris outside of the 4th, this tower was once part of a castle called l’hôtel de Bourgogne thE gallEriEs Prototypical of indoor shopping malls the Galleries got their start in 1786 when the Duke of Orleans realized that there was money to be made by renting out his cloistered garden to small shops. With their glass roofs and tiled floors they were a welcome respite to the newly emerging middle class shopper of the early 19th century, in the days before electric light and sidewalks. A walking tour of the galleries can easily be accomplished in an hour or so, and is worthwhile even though they are long past their glory days. ■■ La Galerie Vivienne. The best preserved of the galleries, the décor of the Vivienne has been maintained in authentic colors from the era, but it’s really the mosaic floor which is the star of the show. The shops are distinctly upscale, and all Created for michael arrington Paris, France 73 about conspicuous consumption: a wine seller, a tea shop, and a dealer in antique books are among the highlights. ■■ Passage Choiseul. A considerably more down-to-earth gallery, the passage mainly serves traders on their way to the Bourse, with the same class of shops that one might find in a pedestrian tunnel in New York or Chicago: a shoeshine stand, a newsstand, and little almost-but-not-quite fast-food restaurants. ■■ Passage des Panoramas. ■■ Passages des Princes. ■■ Passage du Grand-Cerf. othEr shoPs ■■ Brentano’s, 37 avenue de l’Opéra (Métro Opéra). BritishAmerican Bookshop, good choice of Fine Arts books, etc. budgEt ■■ Exki, 9, Boulevard des Italiens (Métro: Opéra or Quatre-Septembre). High quality fast food with an emphasis on freshness and a slight bent for the exotic. ■■ Bourgainville, 5, rue de la Banque (Métro: Bourse). This comfy little bar offers down-home cooking from the Auverge region, and after-work drinks for the financial set. ■■ Rani Mahal, 9 Rue Saint-Augustin. This Indian restaurant is raved about by vegetarians, but serves meat as well. mid-rangE ■■ Café Etienne Marcel, 34, rue Etienne Marcel (Métro: Etienne Marcel). A Costes brothers’ creation but with lower prices than many of their other restaurants, the Etienne Marcel combines a creative menu with hip interior design and hip musical ambience. Vegetarians: The crispy risotto balls (risotto croustillant) are amazing, and pretty much impossible to make at home. 15-20 Euro ■■ Le Loup Blanc, 42 rue Tiquetonne (Métro: Etienne-Marcel). The White Wolf is interesting not only for the fact that it’s directly across the street from another restaurant called the Three Little Pigs, but also for the quality of the dishes in a Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 74 style that the chef likes to call “world food”. There is a vegetarian offering. ■■ Café Moderne, 40, rue Notre-Dame-des-Victoires (Métro: Bourse). drink ■■ The Frog & Rosbif, 116 rue St. Denis. As you probably know the English use the word “frog” as an ethnic slur for the French. You may not know that the word “Rosbif ” is the French ethnic slur for the English. Well, it seems that there are mostly no hard feelings over a pint, or so the presence of this chain of 6 English pubs in the French capital would tend to suggest. ■■ Footsie, 10-12, Rue Daunou. The drink prices fluctuate with supply and demand, just like at the nearby Bourse. Astute readers will note that the Footsie is an exchange index on the London stock exchange, which works because this is a moreor-less English style pub right down to the curry. ■■ Harry’s New York Bar, 5, Rue Daunou. The birthplace of the Bloody Mary, Harry’s was another Hemmingway hangout. ■■ Café Noir, 65, Rue Montmartre (Métro: Sentier or Bourse). A particularly fine example of a Paris café. contact The 2nd arrondissement postal code is 75002. Paris/2ème arrondissement Paris {{outline} Created for michael arrington Paris, France 75 paris/3rd arrondissement A quieter part of the ancient Marais neighborhood which is centered in the 4th, the 3rd is possibly one of the best places to live in Paris. There are several good open air markets, a gigantic covered flea market, and lots of great speciality food stores, especially along rue de Bretagne. The museums of the 3rd are among the best anywhere, including the Musée Picasso which contains both the master’s works and his collections, and the almost undefinable Conservatoire des Arts et Métiers which has on display the first prototypes of almost every important invention, including the first monoplane, numerous artifacts from the creation of the Statue of Liberty, and of course, Foucault’s Pendulum. ’’by métro’’ Station Arts et Metiers (3, 11) is probably the most convenient for the Musée des Arts et Metiers (obviously), but also within easy walking distance of all the attractions of the 3rd Station Republique (3, 5, 8, 9, 11) is located on the northern edge of the 3rd arrondissement, but superbly well-connected and therefore highly convenient sEE Picasso, 5 rue de Thorigny (Métro: Chemin Vert). 930pm. Most of the works by Picasso and others which were in the master’s possession at the time of his death are now on display here. ■■ Musée national des Arts et Métiers, 60 rue Réaumur (Métro : Arts et Métiers, Réaumur-Sébastopol, Bus 20, 38, 39, 47). ■■ Musée Paris, Jun 17–Jun 25, 2008 76 open Tu-Su 10 am - 6 pm, Th until 9.30 pm, closed Mo and public holidays ■■ Musée d’Art et d’Histoire du Judaïsme, 71, rue du Temple. ■■ Musée de la Serrure, 1, rue de la Perle (Métro: Chemin-Vert). ■■ Musée Cognacq-Jay, 8 rue Elzévir (Métro: Saint-Paul). ■■ Musée Carnavalet, 23 rue de Sévigné (Métro: Saint-Paul (ligne 1), Chemin vert (ligne 8), Bus 29, 69, 76, 96). open Tu-Su 10 am - 6 pm, closed Mo and some public holidays, last tickets 5.30 pm, tel 01 44 59 58 58, fax 01 44 59 58 10, free entry to the permanent collection - contained within two historic houses (hotels), the museum explores the history of Paris through objects in over 140 separate rooms ■■ Les Archives Nationales. buy There’s a lot of stuff to buy in the 3rd, mainly in the side streets of the upper Marais down near the 4th. Of particular interest are the large number of men’s clothing stores on rue de Turenne. ■■ Au Réparateur de Bicyclettes, 44 Blvd de Sébastopol (Métro: Rambuteau). Monday to Saturday 10am to 8pm. If you would rather have a funkier bike than the ones you can rent from the RATP you would do a lot worse than checking out this little bicycle repair shop which also offers a wide range of new and used bikes. Their specialty in new bikes is Dutch and English bicycles, but some of the really nice ones are by the American company Scott. The used bikes start at around 75 Euros. Eat ■■ Le Petit Marché, 9 rue de Béarn (Métro: Chemin Vert). Open noon to 2:00am every day. This is one of those charming little Parisian bistros which is off on its own a little. The wait staff couldn’t possibly be friendlier so this is a good place to bring people to show them how nice Parisian dining can be. The food is in a higher class than the price range, and the Created for michael arrington Paris, France 77 folks who work here have an easy collegial or even familial way with each other, and with frequent guests. ■■ Chez Jenny, 39, boulevard du Temple. A super popular spot with young parisiens and parisiennes. The food must be good for it to be so consistently packed. ■■ Chez Janou, 2, Rue Roger Verlhomme. Chez Janou has such a pretty location that it’s worth an evening visit just for that. But the food and atmosphere are also amazing. Vegetarians be warned, the tortellini is not the token veggie dish there isn’t one. 18 Euro/person. ■■ Page 35 (4, rue du Parc Royal). The name apparently refers to some section of some newspaper or another apparently with social listings. The carte features fantastic crêpe opportunities making this a must for lunch or lingering over a carafe or two of the house wine. 8 Euros ■■ Le Pot