Get documents about "Business Template Olay
Description
Business Template Olay document sample
Document Sample
skin caremarket report
The
truth
will
out
Skin care is evolving
faster than ever with
independent clinical
trials and new standards
Aveda
in natural and organic
cosmetics separating
fact from fiction, as paediatrics, obstetrics & gynaecology, a high profile product we wanted to be
Jo Allen reports Imperial College London]. Dispatches was confident that people were getting what
one-sided and had a clear agenda, didn’t they want. For us, it’s raised the bar. It has
seek an independent view and tested in to work.”The tests are a mix of self-
The face of skin care is about to uncontrolled conditions.We are quite assessment, instrumental testing and direct
change. It is finally time to wind down the happy for programmes to talk about the measurements of whether antioxidants
story telling, peel back the fiction and science of products but we are pushing for protect against free-radical damage, which
reveal the products that work... and the more, and independent data.” is “a big issue in the industry,” says Long.
industry, it seems, is only too willing to Indeed the ramifications of the Horizon Dermatologist Dr Nick Lowe, who
help.There is likely to be a significant shift programme are still being felt. In January launched his own skin care range in Boots
in how skin care products are tested in the Boots launched a full Protect & Perfect last October, says: “It is refreshing to see
future, and media coverage appears to have skin care range, with a day cream science done on a single product.”
been the instigator. moisturiser with SPF15, a night cream, eye In fact it seems the future of the $65bn
Always controversial, often provocative, cream and body moisturiser sitting skin care market may well depend on such
skin care is no stranger to hitting the alongside its coveted Beauty Serum. “The trials.A new study by Professor Chris
headlines. But over the past year the range,” says Long, “has been the most Griffiths is on an experimental Boots
number of documentaries and articles that successful launch Boots has ever done at formulation (not, as some reports have
have tested skin creams has sky rocketed. any time in its history.” Boots continues to suggested, further tests on the Protect &
And they mostly share one aim - to reveal test the range, and to date has performed Perfect Serum), and is the first double blind
The truth about beauty creams, as a recent 29 tests with large studies spanning 1300 randomised controlled trial of a skin care
Dispatches documentary was called.The women around Europe. “Because it is such product.The results will be published in a
media scrutiny has at times resulted in journal.“Chris wants it to appear in a peer-
other products enjoying a phenomenal reviewed scientific journal before it is talked
TABLE 1 - GLOBAL SKIN CARE
growth in sales (a recent example is MARKET BY COUNTRY, 2007 (US$M) about,” says Long.The step is unprecedented,
supermarket Aldi’s £1.89 Siana cream but Boots believes that for the skin care
which sold over 20,000 units a week) and Country 2002 2007 industry, this type of independent testing is
at others served to deride virtually every US 6,751.2 8,059.2 the future. Long adds:“The thing about
product on trial. Stewart Long, skin care France 2,391.1 4,368.0 premium skin care is that there is so much
scientific adviser, Boots, comments: “We are Germany 1,975.1 3,239.3 out there.You can pay £10 and find a
all aware of the positive and negative Italy 1,440.0 2,340.4 product that really works, or £200 and have
aspects of the media - we all buy into that. Spain 956.4 1,897.9 a product that may work spectacularly or not
Horizon approached its programme with a UK 1,612.7 2,937.6 at all. For the consumer it is difficult to
scientist of great professional repute Source: Euromonitor International know which product does work. It’s in our
[Professor Lesley Regan, division of interest to test that our products work. So
26 SPC June 2008
market reportskin care
TABLE 2 - GLOBAL SKIN CARE
MARKET SIZE BY AREA, 2007 (US$M)
Sector 2002 2007
Skin care 40,957.6 65,674.6
Facial care 32,743.1 52,139.9
Facial moisturisers 12,663.6 19,948.5
Nourishers/anti-agers 7,609.0 14,896.4
Facial cleansers 6,372.3 9,039.9
Toners 4,003.8 5,035.9
Face masks 1,262.2 1,907.7
Lip moisturisers 832.1 1,248.4
Source: Euromonitor International
you’ll see much more of it from us in terms
of rigorous studies with dermatologists and
published data.” Skin lightening is a growth sector but is crying out for scientific development
The results of Griffith’s clinical trial,
which will be published imminently, are perceive something has been independently result in the demarcation between pure and
eagerly awaited, not least by Dr Richard tested, it has more gravitas.” Long adds:“I pseudo products. Later this year, the
Weller, senior lecturer dermatology, would agree that people, proved by the effect European standards of natural and organic
University of Edinburgh. “What will be of the Horizon programme, are looking for cosmetics is expected to be unveiled. It is a
really interesting is if the formulation is evidence that is credible and that shows these development that has already been dogged
found in this trial to genuinely change the products work.” by delay but a move that will give certified
structure of the skin.” This particular It may well be just a matter of time natural and organic cosmetic products
formulation may not be sold commercially, before a cream hits the market backed by uniform logos for the first time. Organic
thereby avoiding any threat of regulatory some solid independent clinical evidence Monitor notes that “the successful
infringement, but it is a fascinating exercise. that it works. Besides, an important move implementation of these standards could
Any product that is sold as a cosmetic has been made in the regulatory field pave the way for EU regulations for natural
and contains cosmetic ingredients at which sends out some positive signals. and organic cosmetics, similar to those for
approved levels and yet is proven to Long says: “At ASA (Advertising Standards organic foods”. A number of private
genuinely change the structure of the skin, Authority) meetings they have accepted standards have also been introduced by
could, says Weller, be presented with two that you will physiologically change the certification agencies, industry groups and
outcomes. “Either the regulatory skin when you apply a product, and that it retailers:Whole Foods Market launched its
authorities could say you can’t sell the doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a medicine. If Premium Body Care Standard to separate
product because it’s a drug, or say that it we are dealing with wrinkles and skin products that meet “the strictest standards
has always been called a cosmetic and keep ageing this is a cosmetic problem. A hand for quality, environmental impact, results
on calling it a cosmetic.This would raise cream will improve the condition of the and safety” from inferior cosmetics.The
the bar for every other cosmetic company. skin and there have been good studies that Organic and Sustainability Industry
What is interesting is whether cosmetic show the number of lipids in the skin will Standards (OASIS) for beauty and personal
companies would then change their market increase. Similarly, if you just put water on care products has been developed by a
models. I think cosmetic companies do your skin for a week it will change and go trade group including manufacturers Aveda
good research but I wonder if the market is dry.The ASA is accepting that something and Hain Celestial, while natural and
going to change and they are going to have must happen to skin, that it will respond to organic personal care standards have also
to do openly published studies to prove a product that is on it, and that it is not been unveiled by US-based NSF
their creams work. Some will go bust necessarily a bad thing.” International and Toronto-based Certech
because the products are tested and do Registration. Such standards are important
nothing, others will be taken off the shelves WHAT LIES BENEATH in building consumer trust and also raising
for doing too much. But whoever gets it The industry is in the midst of a further the game for manufacturers.
right and gets through will be the market quest to reveal the truth behind skin care. Amanda Le Roux, general manager of
leaders. It could be a market leader or die This year is proving to be a significant year Aveda Europe believes: “The consumer is
situation.” for the development of new standards in benefiting from the plethora of standards
For any cosmetic company this of course natural and organic cosmetics and will because it increases awareness of the
means taking a huge risk. “Companies are environment and of the need to create
terrified of the outcome,” notes Weller.Yet higher expectations in how we conduct
the pressure is on from consumers who are TABLE 3 - LEADING GLOBAL SKIN business. Aveda looks forward to a global,
demanding proof, more than ever before, CARE BRANDS BY RANKING, 2007 harmonised standard in the future.
that a product works. Brand Company However, increased awareness is a step in
Daniela Rinaldi, perfumery and 1 Avon Avon Products Inc the direction towards creating those global
concessions controller at Harvey Nichols, 2 Olay Procter & Gamble Co standards.”
tells SPC: “I think the consumer is far more 3 Nivea Visage/Vital Beiersdorf AG In fact Aveda recently raised the
savvy than ever, for example they are asking Source: Euromonitor International benchmark for other companies claiming its
about product ingredients and listings. If they commitment to environmental responsibility
June 2008 SPC 27
market reportskin care
by being the first beauty company to achieve at other, more younger customer”. It
Cradle to Cradle ingredient certification. expensive products and is particularly proud of
Four of its most used botanical ingredients the efficacy on ours is its targeted Basic Care
were certified - sandalwood oil, rose oil and better. In general it is products, such as Instant
lavender oil from Bulgaria and uruku from not the ingredients that Lightening Eye Cream,
Brazil.“C2C certification not only benefits are the expense - if you Microcrystal Skin
the consumer,” says Le Roux,“but also the look at active ingredients Refinisher and the All
beauty industry as a whole, as it provides a in some £30 to £100 Firm products (Moisture
scientific measurement of progress and and £100 to over £500 Cream and Rebuilding
commitment.” In addition it is the first products the ingredients Serum) in the
beauty company to manufacture with 100% are not significantly The trend for premium products is Specialized Care
wind power. Such credentials sit favourably different, and they can’t now impacting the mass market. P&G category.
alongside the launch of Aveda’s new Green be for non-prescription describes daily 3 point treatment And with skin care, as
Science skin care line, a high-tech lifting and products. I think the cream as its first “luxury supercream” it is with high street
firming range to minimise lines and high priced market will fashion, it seems no
wrinkles.The certified organic, sustainably be challenged. It’s been a marketing driven price can be too low for consumers. As the
sourced, ingredients include argan oil as a misconception that the more expensive the winner in Sunday Mirror’s Celebs on
fatty acid replacement and lipid range the better. But that’s not true.” Sunday 2008 Beauty Survey, beating three
replenishment, plai oil as an antioxidant and Lowe’s skin care range, which is sold under £20 mass market anti-ageing creams
anti-inflammatory, and cactus to inhibit the exclusively at larger Boots stores, is labelled tested, Aldi’s £1.89 Siana Moisturising
deterioration of collagen. as the most affordable Dr brand on the Anti-Wrinkle Day Cream consequently
Certification is also the backbone behind market and is said to prove that effective sold out in dozens of branches. Meanwhile
a new US line whose products display the skin care need not be expensive, with glowing reviews on a parenting website led
USDA logo (certified as containing at least prices from £8.95 to £19.95. It is to soaring sales of Waitrose Baby Bottom
95% organic ingredients) and/or the Circle “logically formulated”, says Lowe, being Butter as mums found benefits when they
of Green certification. Developed by plastic built around two regimes, Prevention and used the product as a face cream.
surgeon Dr Domanskis, the line aims to Repair, with each product containing one If consumers in the UK are looking to
eliminate wasteful packaging, with of four Cranley Complexes: Anti-Age, trade down, manufacturers across the pond
oversized products, recyclable packaging Anti-Blemish, Soothing, Illuminating. are getting ready too. Dr Semel’s Timelapse
and an online recycling programme that is There are seven anti-age products, four Wand, a “wrinkle cream in a stick,” is billed
offered for all product purchases. anti-blemish products and two skin as an affordable alternative to pricier skin
solutions products, with the Super Charged creams. Semel quips: “Times are tough. If
TRADING DOWN SPF15 Day Cream (that features UVA you fill up your car, you might not have
But it’s not just the testing of skin protection tested on Boots’ UVA star anything over to fill up your face or Botox
care and adoption of new system) selling out in four it. Many of the creams on the market, at
organic standards that is weeks. upwards of $100, don’t offer much relief.
changing the face of Good Skin, the US brand For a $25 stick that lasts about a month,
the market, there may from BeautyBank (Estée the Timelapse wand is affordable for most
also be a nip/tuck Lauder) which is launching budgets.” It contains Spanish lavender oil
effect on the pricing of in the UK this month at which is claimed to help inhibit muscle
products.The prospect Superdrug stores, is similarly contraction and hydrolysed wheat protein
of a global credit priced. Steve Hasher, vp to produce a relaxing effect to smooth out
crunch has led to a research and development, facial expression lines.
softening of demand Good Skin, comments: “This Whether the economic situation will
across retail markets in brand was developed for affect the upper echelons of skin care
the US and European people who require and remains to be seen, but so far it has done
countries. Rinaldi expect high quality, little to dampen the launch activity for
observes: “There is no dermatologist formulated super luxe products. Clarins’ customisation
doubt that trading has skin care that’s easy, range My Blend by Docteur Courtin is
been softer but at effective and affordable.” priced between $175 and $250 - triple that
Harvey Nichols we are The range features simple of regular Clarins products. Currently
slightly closeted from the categories: Basic Care for available only in the US, it comprises 225
high street as our cleansing, exfoliating and possibilities of variation based on 65
customers still have hydrating, and Specialized references where customers can tailor the
disposable income.” Care products, which are products to their personal requirements.
However, for the skin care targeted formulations that Meanwhile Guerlain has added a £215
industry, the pricing issue address Dull or Ageing serum to its cult Orchidée Impériale anti-
runs deeper. Dr Nick Red/Sensitive and Severely wrinkle range. Karen Grant, NPD Group’s
Lowe tells SPC: “I have Dry skins. Selection is said senior beauty industry analyst says: “Skin
consistently said that you to be simple, with colour care’s royal affair with premium products
do not need to spend coded packaging by skin continues to expand judging by the growth
high or modestly high condition, and with these we have seen in premium and super
amounts of money to get elements the brand is premium products.” In the US sales of
efficacy.We have looked hoping to reach “a new, premium facial products priced $70 and
June 2008 SPC 29
skin caremarket report
above approached $700m in 2007. believe the future lies in holistic well-
The trend is even impacting the being to drastically slow down the
mass market, with Olay launching ageing process. It’s the future of skin
its own high priced unguent care and is of great interest all over the
Regenerist Daily 3 Point Treatment world.” Eco-friendly skincare line
Cream, billed as its first “luxury Nude, a brand which is gaining
super-cream”.The £29.99 price is momentum in the UK, has a range of
certainly no deterrent - it sold one probiotic whole food supplements,
every minute at its launch on while in France, Dior became the first
Boots.com last month.Weller adds to the brand in the selective market to launch
argument: “We are entering a recession. an oral supplement to complement a
But the fact is that people like to spend topical skin care line, adding Soins Anti-
money on themselves. Surely that is a big The prospect of a global credit crunch means Age Oral Multi-Perfection to its Capture
part of the cosmetic world.” consumers may trade down. Dr Nick Lowe is Totale range.
Another trend that is gathering pitched as the most affordable Dr brand Similarly, skin lightening is a “small but
momentum is holistic skin care. A recent certainly growing” sector, says Rinaldi, with
study showed that a tomato-rich diet could includes Advanced Peptide Therapy face recent innovations in this area including
potentially reverse the skin-ageing process serums that claim wrinkle reduction and Darphin’s Clear White range that is
since the antioxidant lycopene, present in skin resurfacing properties, body treatments designed to help diminish the appearance
tomatoes, is able to reduce sun damage in with marine extracts to tone and restore of dark spots and discolourations while
the skin.While the effect was equivalent to and a range of nutritional supplements to promoting a vibrant complexion. Clear
applying a sunscreen with a tiny SPF of 1.3, reduce internal inflammation and promote White Brightening and Soothing Serum
the study highlights the interest that holistic healthy skin - such as Pharmaceutical Grade contains vitamin C and mulberry extracts
skin care is generating.Wellness brand Skin Omega-3, capsules that are said to contain to brighten the skin, while the Brightening
Nutrition, which became internationally the most potent form of Omega 3 available. and Hydrating Cream incorporates
available last year, is a line that aims to treat Joanne Purvis, brand manager comments: liquorice, vitamin C and rice extracts for
the whole body.The three-step approach “Many prominent people in the industry the purpose. And Clark’s Botanicals, a US
market reportskin care
line that launched last July to target issues surface of the wrinkle for a smoothing Light to reduce wrinkles and improve skin.
in a broad spectrum of skin types effect,TP-Vityl claims to restart cellular Industry giants P&G and L’Oréal have
incorporates a kojic acid and liquorice- activity by protecting the stem cells, moved into the field, signing agreements
based skin lightening cream (Kojic Cream), enabling new cells to form, and Bionectine with Syneron and Light BioScience
which claims to quickly and aggressively is said to strengthen the skin from respectively to launch home use products,
target dark spots. Lowe, however, believes underneath the wrinkle. while a product which has already
that the sector needs more work. “The Meanwhile NV Perricone’s latest experienced “excellent” sales since last year’s
majority of OTC skin lighteners are product Stimulcell claims to be unlike launch is the RejuvaWand by Light
modest or minimal in their efficacy. It’s an other stem cell creams, containing all 145 Dimensions. Using red and infrared light
area that desperately needs science and ‘signals’ that are emitted by stem cells to therapy and a gentle massaging action, the
development.” initiate the regeneration and renewal device claims to make visible changes to
process. It helps regenerate the skin’s skin in 30 days or less. Long comments:
WRINKLE RIVALS appearance by encouraging the delivery of “Everyone is interested in this as an area.
Meanwhile, other areas of development are peptides, proteins and lipids to the skin We will see a huge trend in it. Such
vying for the title as the new gold standard responsible for surface restoration and intervention can make a visible difference
in skin care. First up is stem cell renewal. And a report in the Korea Times to skin.” Lowe adds:“I have seen a lot of
technology. A couple of successful niche stated that Seoul-based bio technology research and they are definitely slightly
products (Amatokin and ReVive’s Peau company RNL Bio is in final negotiations effective - but they can only be slightly
Magnifique) were followed by heavyweight with P&G to mass produce a cream that effective because they have to be safe for an
brand Dior with Capture R60/80 XP, its contains proteins produced from stem cells untrained person to use on their own skin.”
first line based on stem cell research at the in a lab, which are extracted from human There is always a buzz surrounding skin
Dior Innovation Centre. It incorporates placentas, to stimulate adult skin cells to care. But if today is buzzing, tomorrow
Stemsome, a multi-layer vector system that replenish themselves faster. promises to blow us away completely.
is claimed to “liberate stem cells in the Light-based treatment devices are “Over the next five years, we will see
epidermis and help sustain their generating much excitement as they beam products that make genuine improvements
reproductive capacities”.There are three their way from spas to the home use in the appearance of skin,” says Long.
active ingredients: Bi-Skin works on the market.The devices use Intense Pulsed “There will also be less story telling.”
Related docs
