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SPRINGBOARD FOR SURVIVAL

VIEWS: 177 PAGES: 68

This is a repost of my first document I posted here. My original post seems to have disappeared. If you have downloaded the original, this is the same report. Since it was written before the 2008 elactions, many of the things I wrote are dated. I plan to update the "newsy" portions to better reflect the current situation, plus I have gotten in touch with some people with good resources worth adding to the resources list.

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									SPRINGBOARD FOR SURVIVAL




 A REPORT ON THE POTENTIAL THREATS
    FACING US IN THE NEAR FUTURE
  AND WHAT YOU CAN DO TO PREPARE




             Steve Herr
                 SPRINGBOARD FOR SURVIVAL




                 A REPORT ON THE POTENTIAL THREATS
                    FACING US IN THE NEAR FUTURE
                  AND WHAT YOU CAN DO TO PREPARE




                                   Steve Herr




                          Copyright 2007 by Steve Herr


                   Electronic versions of this report are free.
               Send email to Newcreature52@juno.com to request.



You are permitted and encouraged to reproduce and distribute this report provided
it is reproduced in its entirety. Get the word out.
                                                     FORWARD


When I first came up with the idea for this report back in February of 2006, I envisioned a small handbook with
all that I’d learned in 25 years about surviving a disaster with which I could pass on that information and, perhaps
make a few extra bucks in the process. One thing that I did not count on was that things would happen so fast. *

It is difficult to be a news junkie and remain optimistic. As you will read further on, I have found that there are a
total of four potential disasters, any one of which could change our lives forever. Two come from radical Islam,
and what they would dare to do with nuclear weapons. One comes from the bumbling of our own elected leaders
whose addiction to power will drive them to do ANYTHING to keep their party on top. The last threat comes
from Mother Nature herself, not quite the loving mother that naïve environmentalists fancy her to be.

I have directed this report to warning of these threats, and giving suggestions to prepare, but – as I said – things
are moving much faster than I anticipated. Al-Qaeda operatives have already been smuggling suitcase nukes into
the country for years. A news item just a few days prior to this writing stated that President Bush is seriously
considering launching a preemptive attack designed to completely cripple Iran. While this campaign may remove
Iran as a threat, the rest of the Muslims worldwide will be quite active, and ready for revenge. A story released
March 30 stated that the University of Georgia has concluded after a 3-year study that we are just not ready for a
nuclear attack. At all.

A recent story in the news reported that a family in Indonesia who died of the H5N1 avian influenza – “Bird Flu”
– in 2006 were victims of human-to-human transmission. If this strain cannot be contained, we will see a
worldwide pandemic that will dwarf anything we have seen in our lifetimes.

The need for this information is urgent. The usual pace of getting a book published is far, far too slow. I have
shifted mental gears to present this report in a no-frills format. No comics to make my points as in other books of
mine. No attempt to make this a pretty product. Just raw facts present to the public, who can do with the
information as they wish.

You are invited to reproduce this report to pass on to whomever is willing to make use of the information.
Forward it through email. Print out copies to hand off to those without computers. Give away copies at church,
at work, to each of your neighbors.

All that I ask is that you do not make any changes, and to pass on this report in its entirety.

If someone wants a copy emailed to them, contact me at Newcreature52@juno.com requesting it. Electronic
copies are free. I will also provide hardcopies for a small fee to cover the cost of printing and postage. I have
given up the idea of making any money from this. Of course, I am not being completely altruistic about this. The
more people who learn this information and take it to heart, the better our country will weather these disasters.

Steve Herr
September 2007



        *2007 is proving to be closing on a very scary note.  On December 27th Benarzir Bhutto, former
        premier of Pakistan, and one who served as a promise for another democracy in the Middle East,
        was assassinated. Her death left Pakistan in the hands of current president, Pervez Musharraf,
        who talks tough about terrorism, but has done virtually nothing. Bhutto’s murder brings the
        country several steps closer to al-Qaeda’s control – and control of Pakistan’s nuclear stockpile.
I have been reading from several independent sources over the last month that early 2008 is going
to serve as the watershed for some huge global financial upheaval. Things are already bad from
the subprime mortgage mess, and in the middle of December, the members of the European
Union received a huge infusion of 500 Billion euros to help keep their economies afloat.

And to further ruin your day, there are reports surfacing of millions of dead birds in California,
there were three human deaths attributed to the H5N1 virus in Egypt in a week, and Indonesia has
now logged over a hundred deaths from the bird flu – from human-to-human contact.

The time to prepare is NOW.




                              SPRINGBOARD TO SURVIVAL
                                         INTRODUCTION

It has been said that a man does not worry about the future until he gets married. In my case it
was certainly true. After my marriage to my wife, Kathleen, in 1982 I started looking at the
world around us and wondered what the future held for us. A little over a year later our first child
was born, and his arrival exacerbated my concern for my family’s well-being.

In the 80’s there was the threat of nuclear war. I read what I could find on what it would take to
survive a nuclear holocaust. On the tail of the collapse of the Soviet Union the chance of the
collapse of our own economy seemed not only possible, but likely. Bankruptcy 1995, by Harry
Figgie, made for scary reading. The latter 90’s fueled concerns for Y2K, adding TEOTWAWKI
to our vocabulary.

Having dodged Y2K, we encountered a very real threat in the form of religious fanaticism. What
many people viewed as an unreasonable religion located safely over on the far side of the world,
radical Islam forced itself into the forefront of our attention on September 11, 2001. Since then
we have learned of a plot by al-Qaeda to smuggle nukes into the United States, then detonate
them in the large cities, and separate plans by Iran to set off a high-altitude nuclear explosion to
cripple all of our electronics.

Besides men’s deliberate plans to ruin our lives, we are still faced with the bumbling elected
leaders who don’t seem to have the slightest idea that overspending will eventually lead to
economic downfall. Despite getting elected on a conservative platform, President Bush has
signed the largest spending bill in our nation’s history. Congress is absolutely bloated with
political pork, and the last statistic I read stated that the national debt is growing by 1.6 billion
dollars per day. That is not a misprint. In the mid 90’s the debt was growing by “only” 1.1
billion dollars per day. Just recently the Senate voted to raise the debt ceiling to 9 TRILLION
dollars. Our country is still on the road to bankruptcy – just not on Harry Figgie’s projected
schedule.

If threats by humans were not enough, Mother Nature, it seems, has to get her licks in too. About
every one hundred years there is a major pandemic that sweeps through the world’s population.
The last one was the Spanish flu in 1918, when tens of millions of people were killed around the
world, over half a million just in the United States. Avian influenza H5N1 – hyped in the media
as merely “bird flu” – has been spreading among poultry in Asia for several years. It has started
spreading to Europe, with new countries being added to the list almost every day. As of right
now it is merely passing from birds to humans with whom they have close contact. Many health
officials fear, though, that it is just a matter of time before the virus mutates to a form that is
easily passed from human to human.

We have come to a point where we have not just one potential for disaster, but four. Any one of
these events could drastically change our lives and destroy the comfortable existence that we all
take so much for granted.

I have feared for my family’s well-being for twenty-five years now. I have spent that time
reading what I can and making what preparations I can. With this report, I hope to share the best
of what I have learned. As with other things I have written, I will hit the high points, then point
you to resources where you can go to address your own concerns in more detail.
(1) THE THREATS ARE REAL
“Luck favors the prepared.” - Edna Mode to Elasigirl in The Incredibles

If, on September 10th, 2001, I had told you that some terrorists would hijack four jet airliners and
use them to destroy the World Trade Center, attack the Pentagon, and target the White House (or
perhaps the Capitol) you would have told me I was crazy. We now know that there are monsters
out there who care nothing for innocent life. There are people out there who want to kill you.
Not because of anything you have done – they don’t even have any idea that you exist - but they
want to kill you just the same. Since the late 70’s radical members of Islam have been growing in
numbers and influence in the Middle East. As long as they stayed in the Middle East, most
people were content to just push them to the back of their minds. After all, there were kids to
raise, jobs to go to, and Real Life to live…maybe the Lions would make it to the Super Bowl.
That all changed on September 11th. Forever. “9/11” will now mean the worst attack on
Americans ever on our own soil.

I have some bad news. These people have not gone away. 9/11 was not enough to do all the
damage they want to do to us. There are currently two very real threats to us from radical Islam.
The first is from al-Qaeda again. According to the latest intelligence, Adnan el-Shukrijumah,
America's most wanted al-Qaeda terrorist, hatched a plot with the Mara Salvatrucha (MS-13)
street gang in Honduras and Mexico. While people have been distracted by “Survivor,” Michael
Jackson, and Paris Hilton, al-Qaeda operatives, with the help of MS-13, have been quietly
slipping over our southern borders and bringing suitcase nukes with them. This is all part of a
plan that Osama bin Laden has dubbed “American Hiroshima.” His plan is to simultaneously set
off nukes in targets New York, Miami, Los Angeles, Philadelphia, Chicago, San Francisco, Las
Vegas, Boston and Washington, DC. Their stated plan is to kill over ten million Americans
through this effort.

Thus far, all that has been done about this is that a group of senators and representatives from
both parties have demanded a detailed report on what the government has planned for this threat.
As anyone who has seen how Washington works could tell you, so far, all anyone has done is
talk. Our southern border is still as porous as it ever was, and no one in Washington has the
backbone – nor even the desire - to do what is right for US citizens.

If al-Qaeda were not enough, Iran has a plan to detonate a high-altitude nuke over the United
States, which would produce an electro-magnetic pulse (EMP) powerful enough to disable all of
the computer chips in North America. Even devices turned off and unplugged would be at risk.

Think of what all is controlled by computers. Beside the obvious, systems for the distribution of
electricity, water, and natural gas would be shut down. Virtually all newer vehicles have onboard
computers to control the engine. People with pacemakers are in big trouble. Food distribution
systems will shut down – if the trucks to deliver the food would start at all. In a nanosecond we
could be sent back to the 19th century.

Suppose the radical Muslims don’t carry out their schemes. Things can go on as usual, right?
Sorry. There is a very real possibility that our federal government is going to go bankrupt.

In the early 80’s President Reagan commissioned the President’s Private Sector Survey on Cost
Control. It was made up of 160 of the country’s top business leaders from both political camps,
funded with private money, and charged with examining how the federal government spends its
money and to make recommendations to eliminate waste. It was chaired by J. Peter Grace, and
became known as the Grace Commission. The Grace Commission gave the president
recommendations where hundreds of billions of dollars could be cut out of the federal budget
without touching a single entitlement program. Unfortunately, much of the savings were in the
form of cutting pork out of the budget, and each congressman had his own pet projects that he
didn’t want cut. So – you guessed it – Congress did nothing.

One of the members of the Grace Commission, Harry E. Figgie Jr., was dismayed by the lack of
action. He charted out spending trends and determined that by the mid 90’s the national debt
would be so large that it would take more money than was collected in taxes to just pay the
interest. He started taking speaking engagements to spread the word. He received so many
requests of copies of transcripts of his talks that he put the information into a book titled
Bankruptcy 1995. It spent more than nine months on the NY Times bestseller list.

As you know by now, the country didn’t go bankrupt on Figgie’s schedule. Does that mean that
his premise was faulty? Not at all. The latest figures I could find were for 2004. Back then a full
20% of tax revenues was going toward paying just the interest on the national debt. The principle
isn’t being touched, just the interest is being paid…and it’s growing. As of 2004 the national
debt was almost 7.5 TRILLION dollars, and is growing at 1.6 BILLION dollars a DAY. Read
that sentence again. The national debt is growing by 1.6 billion dollars a day. As the principle
grows, so does the interest on it. How long could you remain financially solvent if all you did
was pay the interest on your debt, all the while getting deeper and deeper?

Years ago the Chrysler Corporation was nearly bankrupt, and the federal government helped them
avoid going under. When the federal government itself is broke, who will bail it out? As federal
money to the states and communities dries up local governments will be caught in a squeeze
between less money coming in, and what money they do have losing its value due to double-digit
inflation. As the value of the dollar plummets banks will call in their loans, companies will go
under, unemployment will skyrocket, police and fire departments will have to let people go…

Until recently, the US dollar has been King for international trade and that has gone a long way in
keeping it strong. As a favor to us, OPEC has always demanded US dollars for the purchase of
their oil, but Iran (Remember Iran? They want to destroy us.) has recently started accepting the
euro for oil. As more OPEC members follow suit, the euro will grow stronger at the expense of
the already shaky US dollar.* Right now our economy is buoyed by foreign governments’
investing in our treasury bills. A report from the think tank Foundation for the Economics of
Sustainability stated,
    “Countries switching to euro reserves from dollar reserves will bring down the value of
    the U.S. currency. Imports would start to cost Americans a lot more… As countries and
    businesses convert their dollar assets into euro assets, the U.S. property and stock market
    bubbles would, without doubt, burst…”
If the dollar is perceived as a risk, and the euro is more attractive, the dollar will go into free fall.

Now, we have gone over ten years past Harry Figgie’s forecast. Maybe we can continue much
longer than we thought. Are we safe now? Not so fast. Since 1999, birds in and around China
have been spreading an influenza that thus far has been kept primarily to just birds. Within the
last couple of years this virus – designated H5N1 – has been spreading across Asia at an
accelerated rate, and has now passed through eastern Europe into western Europe and Africa.
Humans who have close contact with birds, such as poultry farmers, have been catching H5N1,
with a 50% fatality rate. If the virus mutates so that it can pass easily from one human to another,
we could easily have a world-wide epidemic that would dwarf anything seen in modern times.
The Spanish flu – itself an avian flu - which struck in 1918, had a fatality rate of only 10%, yet
tens of millions died around the world, with over half a million in the United States. What I find
particularly worth noting is that the Spanish flu spread as it did. It covered the entire United
States in four weeks, with far fewer people concentrated in the cities and people much less mobile
than today. One person could infect a crowd at Kennedy airport in New York, and within hours
people from that crowd could carry the virus to every major city in the country.

Who will deliver groceries to the stores if most of the truck drivers are down with the flu? How
will the power plants function with not even a skeleton crew? Heck, who will pick up your
garbage? How will fire fighters put out fires on opposite sides of town if they are short staffed?
What will happen when you or a loved one comes down with the flu and the emergency room at
the hospital is already full…and running on a short staff themselves?

This is a potential threat that we have to face. Anyone who has studied the matter comes away
scared. Very scared. Don’t get scared into inaction, though. There are preparations you can
make that will lessen the effects of any of these threats, or others.

There are those who will scoff at the information and the conclusions I have drawn. These same
people buy insurance even though they never intend to have to use it. Besides, since when has
objective truth been determined by a majority vote?



* Kuwait has been accepting the euro for their oil for several months now, and September 20th a
news story broke, stating that Saudi Arabia was planning to start accepting the euro for oil. The
response to this news was the falling value of the U.S. dollar so that at last report (September
22nd) the euro is at an all-time high against the dollar, and that the Canadian dollar – formerly
worth just a fraction of the U.S. dollar - is now worth more.
(2) GETTING STARTED
The prudent sees evil and hides himself, but the naïve go on and are punished for it. Proverbs 22:3


If you are finally convinced that there are potential disasters that could adversely affect your life and want to
prepare, you may be feeling a little overwhelmed right now. Where do you start? What do you get? How do you
deal with the monumental expense of stocking up? …and a million other questions.

Relax. Panic won’t help here. You have to determine that you are going to work toward making it through these
circumstances. If you have a family, they are depending on you for their survival.

The things you need to consider:

1.   Shelter
2.   Water
3.   Food
4.   Health concerns
5.   Electricity
6.   Protection
7.   Money
8.   Living conditions

These are pretty much in order of importance, although in warmer climates water would be much more
importance than shelter, and in areas where clean water is plentiful, food would have a higher priority.

SHELTER

Shelter will be a huge problem if you live in one of the targeted cities and a suitcase nuke is exploded. As a
matter of fact, in any disaster situation, any of the large cities would not be a safe place. In the case of an
epidemic, though, travel could be even more dangerous that staying in the city. But you may have to evacuate –
even if you have nowhere to go. It would be prudent to have a vehicle packed with supplies and gear for
immediate flight at the ready. Do you have relatives or close friends out of the danger zone that might take you
in? Kind strangers may offer help, but in times of extreme trouble it’s a tossup whether people will rise to the
occasion or revert to barbarism. If you find you have to rely on your own resources, you may wish to get a good
quality tent and camping gear rated for cold weather survival, as you may have to run in the dead of winter. In the
back of this book is an appendix that lists suppliers of gear and books on emergency and more permanent shelter.


WATER

Adopt this as a given: you will never have enough clean, pure water. Modern society, with our ability to have
water at the turn of a faucet, has made us take unlimited quantities of safe water for granted. Those with their
own wells know full well how much trouble not having water easily attainable can be.

Prior to Y2K we had a pipe burst over a winter weekend. Fortunately I discovered the spraying pipe before too
many things got wet, and a worker was right nearby when we called the water company. We were without water
for several days while I repaired the burst pipe then had to wait for a non-emergency visit from the Water
Department. Fortunately, we had our water that we had put back for emergency use. I discovered that even
trying our best to conserve, our family of six went through over ten gallons of water a day - most of which went
toward flushing the toilet. In a disaster of the magnitude that could happen, the toilet would eventually be useless.
Space will always be your big enemy – for all of these preparations. It would be nice to have a tight, clean,
climate-controlled pole barn to store everything you need. Did you see the movie Blast from the Past?
Christopher Walken’s character had constructed an enormous blast shelter during the Cold War that mimicked his
house, and had an area the size of a large grocery store that was packed with supplies. Of course, he was also a
scientific genius who had made millions from various patents. Not many of us would be able to afford to build
such an elaborate shelter, so we are stuck with what we have.

Through our Y2K preparations, I have learned many things that don’t work. Initially, we would wash out milk
jugs and fill them with water and a few drops of bleach. Whenever we’d go grocery shopping we’d pick up a
couple of jugs of distilled or spring water. Having worked for several years in the plastics industry, I knew the
biggest enemy to plastic was ultraviolet rays. We had shelves in our basement away from windows stacked with
our plastic jugs. We ran into one problem, though. Even when kept from UV rays, the plastic in some of the jugs
broke down and leaked all over everything. These days I have bought 7-gallon water cans from the sporting
goods department at a local department store. They are heavy-duty plastic, roughly cube-shaped, to minimize
area taken up, and are stackable. Also, since my kids really like fruit juice, I have taken to buying fruit juice –
especially cranberry juice – in gallon jugs that are made from heavy-duty plastic. If you drink a lot of soft drinks
in 1, 2, or 3 liter bottles, they can be rinsed and filled. If money is no object, you can get 3 to 5 gallon heavy-duty
plastic jugs at many places that sell bottled water. Glass jugs would last virtually forever, but I would be nervous
about weight issues and fears of breakage.

If you have a swimming pool (A 12-foot pool, 3 feet deep holds 1200 gallons of water.) that is an excellent source
of water storage, although you will have to deal with the chemicals. If caught with less water than you need,
don’t forget your water heater and toilet tank. DO NOT USE THE WATER FROM YOUR TOILET TANK IF
YOU USE ONE OF THOSE CLEANERS SUCH AS THE ONE THAT TURNS YOU WATER DEEP BLUE.
Do you live near a lake or stream? While these are excellent sources of water, be sure to filter out chemicals and
disinfect it either by boiling or bleach.

MAKING WATER SAFE

Unless you have won the lottery and can just go out and buy several hundred gallons of bottled water, you are
going to have to make sure your water is safe before you use it. Even much tap water is below EPA standards for
purity. Make sure your containers are clean. Usually six drops (slightly less than 1/8 of a teaspoon) of chlorine
bleach per gallon of water will take care of almost all bacteria. Just recently I have learned that bleach loses its
potency over time. If your bleach is over a year old, double the amount you use to treat your water. According to
the Centers for Disease Control, a rolling boil for at least one minute at sea level will also kill bacteria, but if your
resources are limited, your heat source might be better saved for something else. Besides, bleach is cheap
compared to heat. Be sure to use chlorine bleach that has no extra scent added.

I know of some people who have used hydrogen peroxide to disinfect water, but what I have read about it seems
to involve more steps - combining the peroxide with other things such as ozone, silver, or UV light - and greater
quantities of peroxide over bleach. This strays from my desire for simplicity.

There are chemical additives that are more effective that chlorine bleach but – of course – the cost will be higher.
The best way to disinfect your water is bringing it to a boil and boiling it for one minute at sea level. Since water
boils at lower temperatures at higher altitudes, it is recommended to let it boil for three minutes at altitudes over
6000 feet. This will be sufficient to kill all microorganisms, but will not deal with pollutants.

A major concern – especially if you have to draw water from a stream or lake – is the pollutants found in ground
water. For these you will need some sort of filtration system. The best (and also most expensive) will have a
ceramic filter with activated charcoal. There is a whole range of prices of filters with varying degrees of
effectiveness. You may have a water source that is relatively safe, and can get by with a filtration system that is
not top-of-the-line.

Lower-end water filters can be gotten at department and hardware stores. Higher-end filters can be obtained at
many sporting goods stores or survival supply outlets.
                                                       (3) FOOD


While you can last much longer without food than you can water, it is still one of life’s necessities. Fortunately,
nutritious food in our country is plentiful and relatively cheap.

The grocery stores carry only a three-day supply of food…when things are normal. If there is a panic, the shelves
will empty in a matter of hours. Back in the 70’s, when there seemed to be one shortage after another, Johnny
Carson (Jay Leno’s predecessor, for you young’uns) was doing his monologue and said, “Hey, have you heard?
There is now a shortage of toilet paper!” I’m sure his writers thought it was just a harmless joke. The next day,
many stores sold out of toilet paper in a matter of hours after opening. THAT is the effect of panic buying, and if
the distribution centers have been blown up, if the computers are not working, if the delivery trucks won’t start, or
the delivery men are too sick to make their rounds the shelves will not be restocked for a long time.

What’s your response? Do you remember the fable of the ant and the grasshopper? The ant worked all summer
to put food back for the winter while the grasshopper played his fiddle all day. When winter set in, the ant had
plenty while the grasshopper starved. We are on the threshold of such a situation right now. Even now, with
massive layoffs and available jobs not meeting families’ needs, relief organizations are already reporting that their
resources are being overburdened. You need to prepare now, while you can afford to.

Canned goods and foods that are packed dry are your best bet for starting out. Many grocery stores have a case-
lot sale a couple of times a year, and this is a great opportunity to stock up. BUY ONLY FOODS YOU WILL
EAT. That would seem like a no-brainer, but in the past people would stock up on survival foods that they really
have no appetite for.

One thing to take into account is special dietary needs. Are there any food allergies among your family members?
How about other needs? Our youngest son is mildly autistic, and he has a very narrow range of foods he will eat.
Every now and then he will try something new, but other than that, I suspect he would starve before eating
something he hasn’t already decided he will eat. He is suspicious even of favorites in a different shape or out of a
different package.

Many companies who sell survival supplies sell grain packed in nitrogen or freeze-dried. Many of them also sell
things such as powdered eggs, textured vegetable protein in a variety of flavors, and equipment to make use of it
all.

The best foods for long-term storage are MRE’s, “meals ready to eat.” These are individual meals originally
prepared for the armed forces that will keep for something like 20 years with no refrigeration. There are a couple
of problems with them, though. First is that they are fairly expensive. If you are looking for an inexpensive
means of providing for your family, this would not be the route to go. The second problem with MRE’s is that
their taste leaves much to be desired (or so I’ve heard. I’ve never had the opportunity to try any.) It is reported
that when they were first introduced to the armed forces, replacing the old “C-Rations,” that the men dubbed
them, “Meals Rejected by Ethiopians.”

In the appendix is a list of various foods and their shelf life.

If, by chance, you ignore these warnings and things do collapse for one reason or another, you can follow this
advice that many of my friends and coworkers could recite because they have heard it from me so often… When
you get to the grocery store, don’t go to the canned goods section. Virtually everyone else will be there. Don’t go
to the fresh foods and produce sections. If the electricity goes out (if it hasn’t already) you will have no means of
long-term storage. Ditto for frozen foods. Head for the pet food section. Hardly anyone will be there. Fill your
cart with as many bags of the dog or cat food with the highest amount of protein listed. Don’t worry about
flavors. It will all taste much the same to you – terrible - but it will keep body and soul together long enough for
you to evaluate your situation and what to do next.

Of course, since you are reading this, you have plans to prepare already…


SPROUTS

We have all seen bean sprouts or alfalfa sprouts at the salad bar. Sprouts are cheap, easy to make, and will
provide you with much of the “good stuff” that comes from fresh vegetables. ALSO they can be made at any
time of year. All you need are seeds – a 50-pound bag will take up less room than your television – a wide-mouth
mason jar and some porous cloth. Put a half cup of beans or couple tablespoons of seeds in the jar, cover them
with clean water, and let them soak overnight. Put the cloth over the mouth of the jar, and drain out the water.

Store the jar at an angle so that any excess water will drain. Rinse the seeds with fresh water two or three times a
day, and store the jar in the same manner. In just 3 to 4 days the seeds will sprout, and you can harvest your
“crop.” After harvesting your sprouts, set them in the sun for a few hours to “green up.”

The sprouts will stay crisp for up to a week in the refrigerator in a closed container.

They can be eaten by themselves, as a garnish for salads or sandwiches…one friend of mine grew up with her
mother serving bean sprouts with spaghetti sauce. Different beans and seeds have different flavors. You can mix
different seeds for a variety.

Be sure to clean everything thoroughly between crops of sprouts. Any leftover bacteria could ruin an entire batch.


A WORD ABOUT EGGS

Eggs are nearly a complete protein, and as such should be considered in any food plan. Unless you plan to have
your own laying chickens, you will need to either barter for eggs, or come up with a plan for storage.

Eggs with their shells intact will store for up to 4 months in a cool place (although that’s pushing the limit.).
Powered eggs will last almost forever. They can be purchased through any place that sells survival foods, or you
can make them yourself.

Powdered eggs can be made by drying them, just like many other foods, either in a food dryer, or your oven set to
the lowest setting. I have heard that it is advised that you dip the eggs in boiling water for 10 seconds to kill the
salmonella before breaking the shell.

Crack the eggs into a bowl and scramble them. Pour them into a mason jar and freeze. After they are frozen,
allow them to thaw, but still below room temperature. Several of my sources recommend this. For some reason
the mixture is now thicker, and will dehydrate faster. If you are drying in an oven, put aluminum foil on a cookie
sheet and pour the eggs onto it. Set your oven on the lowest setting. One source recommends 135 degrees for
about 20 hours. Another recommends 140 degrees for 4 hours, then turn the mix over and dry at 120 degree until
completely dry.

If you are using a food dehydrator, follow the preparations as before, then use the fruit leather tray. If your
dehydrator does not have one, waxed paper can be used if your dehydrator doesn’t get too hot, or you could use
foil. Drying time, depending on the dehydrator, will take about 18 hours.
After the eggs are dry, they can be pulverized in a blender, food processor, grain mill, or coffee grinder. The
finer you can get the powder, the better. About 22 eggs will fit into a quart jar. Fill the jar almost full, add a little
dry ice on top. When the dry ice evaporates, seal the jar and the eggs will last indefinitely on the shelf.

Rehydration involves 1 part powdered eggs to 2 parts water.

Another method is to actually scramble the eggs, but not using any fat, butter, or grease. Allow the eggs to cool
and cut into squares or wedges so that they will fit into a food dryer. When they are completely dry, powder them
as with the other methods.


GARDENING

If any of these disasters create problems that continue indefinitely, we will be faced with each family having a
garden to provide much of their fresh produce. At the turn of the 20th Century it was not uncommon for
townspeople to have a garden and chickens running around the yard.

For those with access to relatively large amounts of land, a quarter-acre garden can produce enough vegetables for
a family of six for a year.

With a little planning a small garden will yield quite a bit of food. Using intensive planting, companion crops,
and careful timing of subsequent plantings, even a small plot will do wonders. Even those in the big cities can
garden in containers, or a neighborhood can get together to convert a vacant lot into a source of fresh produce.

If you are new to gardening there is one very important thing you need to know about seeds – especially if an
emergency situation continues indefinitely. Most seeds you will buy are hybrids. The seed companies have
cross-bred varieties to produce bigger, faster-ripening, disease-resistant vegetables. Of course, in the case of any
of the scenarios mentioned here – you guessed it – you will be unable to get the seeds from the seed companies.
The problem with hybrid seeds is that seeds saved from them do not produce the same plants. The seeds from
hybrid plants will revert back to the plants used to produce the hybrids, and you are left with a crap shoot as to
what you will be getting.

The solution is to use seeds that are called “heirloom” or “open pollinated” varieties. These seeds will produce
plants from which you can save seeds and use the next year. Most seed companies’ catalogues have a section of
open pollinated seeds, and there are seed companies that specialize in heirloom seed.
                                           (4) HEALTH CONCERNS


In the course of any of these disasters, health care may not be readily available. Especially in the case of a bird
flu pandemic the emergency rooms will fill almost immediately. Have you ever read The Stand, by Stephen
King? The first section of the book was about a government-created super flu that swept through the nation after
a containment breach. “Captain Trips, “ as the flu became known, had a much higher fatality rate than the bird flu
will, but King’s description of how the emergency rooms were overwhelmed, and how they had to turn away
people is a foreshadowing of what we can expect if the bird flu mutates.

What will you do if a family member comes down with the flu and the emergency rooms are already packed? I
would not presume to be qualified to give medical advice, but an MD, Dr. Grattan Woodson, has put what
information you need to deal with influenza in a concise book called The Bird Flu Preparedness Planner. This
small (81 pages) book was prepared by Dr. Woodson for his own patients when he became concerned about the
spread of the bird flu. He gives his own suggestions for things such as a survival kit and recipes for making your
own “ORS formula,” basically an IV fluid that can be taken by mouth. I cannot recommend this book highly
enough. I was so impressed by it that I bought several copies for family members.

In the appendix is Dr. Woodson’s recommended flu survival kit.

Besides the flu, you may be faced with other medical emergencies that require immediate attention with no doctor
available. I would suggest first off that you take a course in basic first aid offered by the American Red Cross,
then a course in CPR. There are many different first aid kits available through survival outlets, but you can put
together your own for much less money and customize it to your own particular needs. There is a suggested kit in
the appendix.

You should keep a supply of various medicines on hand – most of which you probably already have. Antibiotic
cremes, bandages, pain killers, allergy medicines. One thing to consider is the possibility of deep cuts that would
require stitches. In lieu of sutures, you may want to consider butterfly closures. They will hold the wound shut
without requiring the skill (or overcoming squeamishness) to sew the wound closed. The very first time I needed
to use them was to close a gash on my son’s arm. The ER doctor was impressed with how well I’d applied the
closures. They are quite easy to use. In many emergency rooms a special Super Glue is now used instead of
sutures. DO NOT use everyday Super Glue for this purpose.

One more thing to consider in the event of a bird flu outbreak is a mask if you must go out in public. My own
sources recommended by name the 3M brand #8210 N95 dust masks. I have found them in all hardware stores
and the hardware departments of most department stores. They are also available online at Amazon.com.

Don’t forget any prescription drugs you may require. Terrorist attacks will come with no warning, but you will be
able to see the spread of the bird flu. If you feel that your supply of prescription drugs will dry up, share you
concerns with your doctor and perhaps he can write an extra large prescription to get you through the tough times.

Not being a doctor, I cannot presume to recommend specific medical advice. All I can do is hit the high points
for general terms, urge you to consult your own doctor, and point you in the direction to more information.
                                               (5) ELECTRICITY



Electricity is another part of modern life that we take for granted. Flip a switch – on come the lights. Push a
button – brew a pot of coffee. Drop a DVD into the player – you have entertainment for the evening.

On August 14th, 2003 shortly after 4:00 o’clock EDT, a power failure cascaded through the northeast United
States and Canada, stretching from New York to central Michigan. It left an estimated 50 million people without
power for days. As always happens with this sort of event, the criminal element emerged, and the large cities
were subjected to looting.

An investigation found that a power plant in Ohio shut down unexpectedly, creating a strain on the power grid
and producing the cascading outages. This is just a taste of what will happen if the economy collapses and there
is no money to operate the power plants, if a few well-placed suitcase nukes take out strategic plants, if an EMP
toasts the computers that control the distribution of electricity, or if so many workers are down with the flu that
there aren’t enough for even a skeleton crew.

Fortunately, the power outage of 2003 was during the summer, but what if it had been during February? There
have been stories of power outages during the winter, when people’s houses have burned down because they tried
to heat their homes unsafely or were careless with candles.

Jackson, Michigan, my current home, was spared the effects of the 2003 outage, but that next spring a freak wind
blew through Jackson and knocked down scores of trees just in the middle of town, taking out power lines,
blocking streets, and damaging cars and houses. Fortunately, we had a small generator that we had gotten as part
of our Y2K preparations. We were able to use it to keep our refrigerator and freezer cold, run the microwave, and
provide power to the entertainment center for our autistic son who would not have understood why he couldn’t
watch his videos. We were without power for about a week, but we got by with candles and oil lamps.

If this had happened during the winter, we have a large kerosene heater that would have done nicely in a room
that we could close off. Since then I have also made myself a heavy-duty “extension cord” that I could use to get
electricity from the generator to the furnace just in case the gas supply is still available.

So what should you do to prepare for a disruption of electrical service? Get a generator if you can afford it. Ours
is relatively small – 4500 watts – but it met our needs for a week. I found it would run for about twelve hours on
a five-gallon tank of gas. I had wanted one that small so that – in the case of a total collapse of civilization (We
were planning for Y2K, remember.) – when we depleted our supply of gasoline we could put it into the back of a
pickup and drive to a gas station where we could use it to power the pumps to refill our gas cans.

Besides the generator, we also have candles, oil lamps, and Sterno. The Sterno came in particularly handy with a
small cook stove made for it. I have mentioned elsewhere that our youngest son, being mildly autistic, has a very
narrow range of what he will eat. Also, when he is in the mood for a particular thing, nothing else will do. One
of his favorites is unseasoned meatballs made from ground chuck. With the Sterno cook stove we were able to
keep him well supplied with his “bites.”

One problem with Sterno is that it is expensive. Prior to Y2K my wife mentioned something she remembered
from Girl Scouts called a “Buddy Burner.” Take a tuna can (or perhaps a cat food can) clean, naturally, and put in
strips of corrugated cardboard, the width of which matches the height of the sides of the can. Roll the cardboard
like a watch spring and put it in the can so that as it uncoils it rests against the sides of the can. Use enough
cardboard – several strips, if that’s what it takes – until the can is loosely filled. Pour melted paraffin, pouring
slowly so that the cardboard will soak it up. I’ve found this will take about a quarter pound of paraffin per can.
After it cools you will have a passable heat source in place of Sterno at a fraction of the cost. I tested one, and it
burned for two hours, just as Sterno is supposed to do.

Battery powered items are a must, particularly flashlights and radios. Naturally, you are stuck with the necessity
for a warehouse full of batteries unless you find a way around the fact that batteries run down. One solution is
rechargeable batteries. Of course, if the electricity is out, a plug-in charger won’t do you much good. For our
Y2K preparations we bought a small solar battery charger. It has slots for all of the standard sizes of batteries,
and is small enough that it is easily moved to wherever the sun is strongest. We also have a solar panel that
produces 12VDC for connecting to a car battery. The current produced is small, and it would take a long time to
charge the battery, but when the alternative is nothing, any charge is worthwhile. Our third solar device was a
small radio. In addition to the solar cells, it also had a crank that ran a small generator. A radio is a must to keep
abreast of what is happening elsewhere.

For flashlights, an alternative to batteries is a flashlight that generates its own power. There are squeeze-type
flashlights that have a small generator to provide power. These have been popular since before Y2K, but they
have been getting updated to use LED’s as a light source instead of light bulbs, and are thus more efficient.
Likewise is a new development: a “shaker” light that you shake to pass a magnet through a coil and build up a
charge. They too use LED’s as a light source, making efficient use of the charge, and lasting (reportedly) around
10,000 hours. The squeeze lights I have found for anywhere from ten to twenty dollars, usually through mail
order. The shaker light I have found locally going for two dollars to fifteen dollars. Your third choice is a
flashlight with a crank which drives a small generator. I have found some for seven or eight dollars that have
LED’s as the other types do.

One last light source – and I mention it just because there might be someone out there who wants them – is the
light sticks. These are plastic sticks about the size of a magic marker that contains two chemicals that produce
light when mixed. They are initially kept separate with one being inside a breakable tube. To activate it, you
bend the stick until the inner tube breaks, shake it to mix the chemicals, and you have a glow in your choice of
colors for about twelve hours. The advantages of these are that they are very lightweight and portable, and won’t
create a spark, in case you are in an explosive atmosphere. The disadvantages are that they are fairly expensive,
non-reusable, once you activate them you can’t turn them off, and are irresistible to adolescent boys who want to
cut them open.
                                                   (6) MONEY


Back when I was a kid, I can remember bills that were called “Silver Certificates.” This was paper money that
was actually backed by an equivalent value of silver, and the bearer could exchange it for silver. At one time
there were also Gold Certificates, but I have never seen one. Look at any bill in your pocket. It’s a “Federal
Reserve Note.” There is nothing backing it except a promise from the federal government, and everyone’s
agreement that it has worth. Most of people’s holdings are even less substantial – just numbers on a balance sheet
or a collection of ones and zeros in some computer.

Over twenty years ago I looked at how “money” was backed more and more by just someone’s “gentlemen’s
agreement” and less by products being pushed out a factory door. Stocks and speculation were the order of the
day, and any scandal or upheaval could have more impact on the economy than it had any business doing. I
expressed my concerns to an engineer I worked with, who was skeptical. “Where would the money go?” he
asked. “I don’t know,” I replied. “I don’t know enough about finances to have it all figured out, but I just get
nervous when things have value just because we all agree that they do.” Shortly after that was the Home State
scandal. This was when someone in authority at the Home State Savings and Loan made some risky investments
with the depositors’ money. His investments failed, and other S&L’s who had invested in Home State lost their
investors’ money, and so on, and so on. The cascading effect rippled through the savings and loan community
and was felt throughout the entire country. Eventually the federal government stepped in and guaranteed people’s
deposits, but many people’s accounts were frozen for quite a while.

The Monday after things collapsed, I went to work feeling quite vindicated. I went to the engineer’s desk and
leaned on it. I didn’t say a word, just stood there and grinned. He wouldn’t speak to me. He wouldn’t even look
at me. I left his desk in a huff and went to my own desk. “What’s with him?” I asked a coworker. “He’s upset
because his own savings and loan was caught in that Home State mess. His account is frozen and he can’t get to
his money.”

Things are worse now than they were twenty years ago, and frankly, I find the world of finances even more
mystifying than I did then. I have no idea how these “dot com” companies could lose money year after year, yet
their stock be worth millions. I fail to see how a man can be hired as CEO of a corporation, run the company into
the ground, leave with millions of dollars in hand, and then be hired as CEO of another corporation.

I suspect, though, that with any of these possible scenarios I have itemized that money will be reduced to a point
that we can all understand without any trouble. Things with real value will have worth, and all of the funny
money we deal with these days will go to the wayside. For a time, paper money will still be accepted, but will
eventually be seen for what it is. Until that happens, though you will need access to your cash. Banks will be
closed. ATM’s won’t be working. It would be a good idea to have a cash reserve at home. Fireproof safes are
fairly inexpensive, and are small enough to hide without much trouble.

Eventually, though – if things stay down for extended periods – paper money will lose its value and you will be
forced into the world of barter. In the appendix is a section of things that people find they need (and don’t have)
gleaned by a worker for FEMA from several natural disasters that have hit the country over the last decade or so.
He found that the lists of these items are fairly consistent with every disaster he had to deal with.

When putting back things for yourself, ask, “What will I need that will not be available and I can’t make?”
Chances are others will not have those things either, and they can be bartered. Most are things are fairly
inexpensive: Matches, manual can openers, toilet paper, candles…the list is almost endless. If you keep firearms,
DO NOT BARTER AMUNITION. You just might get your bullets back one at a time.
While things are still stable, start stocking up. Don’t go out and spend thousands of dollars in one jump. If you’re
out shopping, get a can opener, an extra package of toilet paper, or an extra bag of rice. I know of a local
(meaning the Midwest) department store who has their own brand of foods and medicines. Twice a year they
have sales where their own brands of things are ridiculously cheap and you can stock up by the case.

Gold and silver will also be in high demand as currency. At the time of this writing, gold is about $500 a troy
ounce, and silver is around $15 per ounce. Set aside maybe $50 per pay to buy a 1/10th ounce gold coin or maybe
3 ounces of silver. I would suggest silver, because the coins would be of lesser value, and would be easier to
trade without overspending. Buy your metals from a reputable coin dealer. I know that during the 80’s there
were a lot of fake coins being traded – enough that one enterprising individual found a market for a small balance
scale that would fit in your pocket, for checking a coin’s size and weight.

One final thing you can barter – if you have any – skills. If we get blasted back to the 19th century, there is going
to be a high demand for people with carpentry skills, fixing non-electronic vehicles, butchering, weaving, mid-
wifery, dentistry…any skill that you have can be turned into something that you can trade for something else.
Especially, if we get hit by the bird flu, with its 50% fatality rate, there are going to be big gaps in services.

If you don’t have any skills along those lines, I’d suggest learning something. My wife and I have long had a
dream of buying some vacant land, building our own house, and setting up a small farm. To that end I have been
educating myself, and we have bought “handy man specials” first, because we could afford a much larger house
for the money, and second, it gave me a chance to develop the skills I would need to do much of the work when
we started building. I have gotten fairly competent at carpentry, plumbing (including natural gas), and electrical
work. I would not consider myself a Master Craftsman in any of these fields, but I certainly have skills that I
could barter for something we didn’t already have.

Years ago I had a friend who was the vice president of a small company. The company was quite successful, I’m
sure due in part from his capable vice presidenting. He had a degree in some field of science, and was a really
smart guy. One day my wife and I were having dinner with him and his wife in their new home that had just
recently been built. Naturally, we had the Grand Tour of the house, and it was quite impressive. We were
standing in the master bedroom when he mentioned something that bothered him about it. The light switch was
on the far wall, opposite the door. I looked at the layout of the room and said, “It wouldn’t be too difficult for you
to just tie into the circuit at the switch and run a line over to this wall next to the door.” He didn’t have the
slightest idea how to do that. Offhand, I don’t remember why I didn’t offer to do it for him, but he didn’t ask. I’d
be willing to bet that to this day he still has to cross the bedroom to turn on his light.

In the event of a total collapse of our way of life. corporate executives are going to find that their management
skills and an MBA are not all that much in demand.


WHERE DO YOU HIDE THE MONEY?

Naturally, when you have a large amount of cash or precious metals on hand, there is the potential of your home
being burglarized so that you lose everything. Fortunately, any burglar will want to get in, get your loot, and get
out as quickly as possible. This is called the “five-minute rule.” A burglar will not engage in a slow, methodical
search, but will take what he can find in about five minutes. You can use this to your advantage by hiding things
in unexpected places., such as…


In an empty video box with your video collection

In an air-tight sandwich bag in the toilet tank
In an envelope taped to the underside of a drawer, shelf, or table

In a sealed coffee can or plastic pipe buried in the back yard

In the bottom of a tool box

In a toy box

In a box of Christmas decorations

You get the idea. A burglar will want to get in and out fast, so he will not be checking the dirt in flower pots or
the insides of boxes for board games. There are also items called “diversion safes,” which make use of this
principle. They are available online and look just like real brand-name cans and jars of things such as household
oil, soft drinks, mayonnaise, etc. One supplier has large candles that actually work, but are hollow and have a
screw-off opening in the bottom.

Of course, you could make your own at a fraction of the cost. Empty out a mayonnaise jar, paint the interior
white, and there you are. If you have cans of paint in storage, take an empty paint can and put it with the others.
Look around the house, and I’m sure you could come up with some excellent ideas that are unique to your own
situation.
                                                (7) PROTECTION


In a perfect world this report and others like it would not have to be written. The only problems would come from
natural disasters, and in those cases neighbors would pull together to help each other and make it through the
tough time. We know that is not the case, though. Our politicians are mortgaging our children’s futures to buy
the next election, and there are religious fanatics who want to kill us. Likewise, in any emergency, there is a
certain criminal element who sees others’ misfortune as an opportunity for their own gain. This is a harsh reality
that has to be faced.

You may be opposed to using force, but you just may be in a position where – aside from divine intervention – it
is you or your attacker…or a loved one or their attacker. In general I consider myself a fairly peaceful person, but
I have a wife and four children that are under my protection. I would be amiss if I were to not take that charge
seriously.

Protection does not always mean lethal force. It might be enough to just have a big dog around that would deter
would-be attackers. We have a golden retriever who is BIG. He weighs about 118 pounds, with no fat, yet he is
the gentlest dog we have ever had. People who don’t know him, though, are afraid of him. If you don’t want to
have to use up resources to provide for a dog, perhaps you might want to invest in a “Vicious Dog” sign. Be sure
to make it look as if there is one around with a big food bowl, various dog toys, and perhaps a cow femur.

Chemical mace and pepper spray are also viable alternatives to lethal force. They used to be available off the
shelf but, at least around here (Michigan), they are no longer in the stores. Stun guns are excellent non-lethal
weapons, but are illegal in some states (such as Michigan.) Naturally, there are ways to get around the law, and it
won’t matter a lot what the law used to say in a total breakdown of society.

The topic of firearms is a very emotional one, but we have to come to grips with the fact that if there were indeed
a total breakdown in society you may be the only thing standing between an attacker and your family. Two
separate rulings by the U.S. Supreme Court state that in the case of widespread lawlessness, the police have no
obligation to protect individual citizens, but are charged with merely keeping the general peace. If there is rioting
going on in another part of town, you may not see any police at all.

As a kid, one of my favorite comic strips was Dick Tracy. For some reason, one thing stated has always stuck in
my mind: “Don’t draw your gun unless you intend to shoot. Don’t shoot unless you intend to kill.” YOU have
more options than that. Sometimes brandishing a weapon is enough to scare off a would-be attacker. Sometimes
disabling him would be enough – although be sure that he is REALLY disabled. You don’t want to merely make
him mad while he still has the ability to retaliate.

Being the first to make a show of force may be enough to avoid trouble altogether. During the Rodney King riots
two men took lawn chairs to the entrance of their trailer court, and just sat there with .22’s in plain sight. Rioters
passed right on by.

I have to admit right here that I am no firearms expert, so I can give only very general advice gleaned from
conversations with friends who have very set opinions, tempered with some of the reading I have been doing. If
you have friends who are much more into guns than I am, perhaps they can give advice on things such as makes
and models.

For indoor use, a shotgun would be safer than a rifle or handgun. Where the latter have a single slug that might
penetrate walls and hit something (or someone) unintended, a shotgun uses hundreds of small pellets that
individually don’t have the mass – or penetration - that a slug does. Along with that, the shot will spread as it gets
farther from the barrel, and one does not need to be as accurate as with a single bullet.
Probably, a smaller-gauge shotgun would be sufficient for home protection. Although many of my friends prefer
the “knockdown” power of a 12-gauge, something that large would probably break my wife’s shoulder.

Other than shotguns, I would suggest a rifle over a handgun for several reasons. A rifle will be easier to aim
accurately than a handgun without lots of practice. Plus – given my distrust of the government – handguns need
to be registered. If those in government ever decide to throw out the Constitution, confiscation of firearms will be
one of the first orders of business, and there will be a record of your gun ownership. Rifles – although gun
dealers are required to do a background check – can be bought and sold by private individuals without any
paperwork.

If for no other reason, if there is a general breakdown in government for any of the reasons presented in this book,
basic services such as garbage collection will be the first casualties. A good varmint rifle - a .22 or high-powered
air rifle - will help keep down the rat population.

If you do decide on getting a firearm, be sure to have plenty of ammunition on hand. Keep it out of reach of
young children. Have every member of the family take a firearm safety course. Keep a trigger lock on each gun.
                                     (8) A MESSAGE FOR CHRISTIANS



Those who know me well at all know of my faith. I can already anticipate many Christians saying that these
preparations display a lack of faith in God’s provision. To those people I’d just have to say that while I respect
your right to your own position, you do not have the biblical model in mind. In Genesis, we read how Joseph told
Pharaoh to use the seven years of plenty to prepare for the seven years of famine. By doing so, Joseph provided
for the survival of Jacob and his other 11 sons, each of whom became the patriarchs of the 12 tribes of Israel.

Consider this report in your hands – right now, while there is still time to prepare – God’s provision for your own
family’s survival. It is true that God does provide for our every need, but we are expected to do more that to just
sit back and wait for God’s provision. The apostle Paul himself stated, “If a man will not work, neither shall he
eat.” If you are convinced that these threats are real, yet do noting to prepare, how can you expect to then benefit
from the work of those who did?

Besides, consider the opportunity you will have to serve others as Christ served – and to emulate your Master.
The point is made by one much more eloquent that I am – my pastor, Leo Cumings of Bethel Baptist Church – in
the introductory paragraphs in his sermon delivered in March of 2006:

             It was the year 165 AD. Roman troops, returning from war in the East, brought with them a
    new and terrifying illness. People came down with a high fever, body aches, severe weakness and
    vomiting. After a few days pustules broke out over their entire bodies. The Roman physician, Galen,
    recorded his observations of the plague that swept Rome during this time. On the basis of his reports,
    doctors today feel certain that it was Smallpox.
         At the height of the plague, Romans were dying at the rate of 2,000 per day. Two Roman
    Emperors died of the disease: Lucius Verus, and his co-regent, Marcus Aurelius Antoninus. Normally
    smallpox typically kills 25-30% of those who get it. In the Roman outbreak, smallpox would claim the
    lives of one-fourth of Rome’s entire population. Since many did not contract smallpox, the death rate
    among those who did was much higher than the normal 25-30%.
         One’s best hope to escape the plague was to flee the city, and most who had the means to do so
    did. Even Dr. Galen felt it prudent to move to his residence in Pergamum, near the west coast of
    modern Turkey. Those who contracted the disease were left to their own devices. Too weak to care
    for themselves, many died from lack of basic care as much as the disease itself.
         One small band of people stayed behind to nurse the sick. They were Christians and they gave
    themselves sacrificially to serve the weak and the dying. Their numbers were too small to help
    everyone, but they did what they could. The very fact that they stayed – providing food, water and
    basic nursing care, and burying the bodies of those who had died – saved countless lives.
         Christians paid for their kindness with their lives. Exposed to smallpox, they too died of the dread
    disease. At great personal risk they chose to love others in Christ’s name.
         Could we do that? We’ve been hearing a lot about the threat of bird flu in the news. What if bird
    flu made the jump to humans and began killing thousands. What if the hospitals were so overwhelmed
    that they sought volunteers to care for patients, and by the way, volunteering increased your risk of
    getting the disease. Could we love others with the same kind of sacrificial love shown by those saints
    in the years following 165 AD? How did they do it? What possessed them to risk their lives for the
    sake of others?

This could be your opportunity to be a blessing to others, to reach out to them in the name of Christ, and show
them God’s love in a very practical way, making the way for Jesus to draw them to Himself. It is not a lack of
faith, but rather taking advantage of an opportunity.
                                          APPENDIX I

                                 FOR FURTHER INFORMATION


BOOKS

Here is a list of the books that have helped me prepare through the years along with some
recommended by others. Many of them will be out of print by now, but perhaps you can find
them used. Amazon.com has many used and out-of-print books offered by private sellers.
Sometimes you can find a bargain; sometimes they are grossly overpriced. Other books are
current titles, and can be obtained quite easily.

The information in many of these books overlaps. I found it difficult to categorize them in order
to group them together, so I have just listed them in alphabetical order, and have given a
description to help give you a guide to their content.


BACK TO BASICS – The editors of Reader’s Digest

This was one of three books that captured my imagination toward joining my wife working
toward getting a place in the country and making our way to some level of self-sufficiency. The
other two were Five Acres and Independence by M.G. Kains, first printed in 1935 and The Have-
More Plan by Ed and Carolyn Robinson, first printed in 1943.

Back to Basics follows the format that I have chosen to adopt, hitting the high points of each
topic, then pointing you toward reference materials where you can research in more depth what
areas are important to you. This volume covers things such as choosing a site for building, water
supplies, building structures, gardening, livestock, rediscovering old-time skills, and things such
as these.


BANKRUPTCY 1995 – THE COMING COLLAPSE OF AMERICA AND HOW TO STOP IT –
Harry E. Figgie Jr.

Harry Figgie was on the Grace Commission, charged with cutting government waste. Nothing
was done, and Figgie felt compelled to warn America where government spending was taking us.
The collapse didn’t happen on Figgie’s schedule, but we are still headed down that same path
today.


BETTER READ THAN DEAD – T.F. Nieman

Published in 1981, this book’s title is a takeoff of the Cold War slogan, “Better dead than red.”
The focus of this book is surviving a nuclear holocaust from a Russian attack. There is much
outdated material, such as maps showing the most likely targets, but it still has a lot of good
information concerning protection from blasts, and surviving the aftermath. If you live in one of
the cities slated for suitcase nukes, this book is worth having.
THE BIRD FLU PREPAREDNESS PLANNER – Dr. Grattan Woodson

I have already mentioned this book and how impressed I was with it. Dr. Woodson became
concerned about the potential for disaster if the H5N1 virus mutated so that it could easily spread
from human to human. He wrote this manual specifically for his own patients. Fortunately he
has made it available to the rest of us.


THE BIRD FLU MANUAL – Dr. Grattan Woodson

This is more or less an expanded version of Dr. Woodson’s other book on the bird flu. While his
other book is merely 81 pages, this is over 300. The good doctor spends more time on the
psychological drain of caring for the flu patient, but keeps it readable by peppering the text with
stress-relieving humor.


THE BOUNTIFUL CONTAINER – Rose Marie Nichols McGee and Maggie Stuckey

If you don’t have a yard for a garden, you can still produce quite a bit of food in individual
containers. A good resource for both the novice or experienced gardener.


CARROTS LOVE TOMATOES: SECRETS OF COMPANION PLANTING – Louise Riotte

Pretty much the definitive book on companion planting. It details what to plant together - and
crops to keep away from each other – for best results in your garden.


COMPLETE DO-IT-YOURSELF MANUAL – The editors of Reader’s Digest

This book is an excellent guide for getting started doing things for yourself. It is not a
preparedness manual as such, but can help start you down the path to developing “handyman”
skills that will come in quite useful in the event that things get so bad an MBA won’t be of much
use. As with Back to Basics, each chapter hits the high points, then has a list of resources for
more detailed information.


COUNTRY WISDOM BULLETINS

These are a selection of short pamphlets that cover a variety of topics having to do with gardening
and just living a simpler lifestyle. Topics include canning, building cold frames and greenhouses,
growing various fruits and vegetables, dealing with pests…virtually anything to do with working
toward self-sufficiency. The approach is do-it-yourself with an organic emphasis. They are
available through Amazon.com (naturally) or just open a browser and do a search for “Country
Wisdom Bulletins.”


CRISIS PREPAREDNESS - Jack A. Spigarelli

Like many of the disaster preparedness books, this one begins by answering the question, "Why
bother being prepared?" It also outlines a framework for being prepared that includes
accumulating supplies, getting mentally and physically prepared, and having your finances in
order. One thing I particularly liked was the emphasis on the importance of knowledge. It wasn't
just about what items you need, but also what skills and knowledge you should develop. But this
book is mostly about food preparation for a major disaster, with emphasis on having a year's food
storage, milling your own grain, growing sprouts, home canning, dehydrating, freeze-drying, etc.
There are detailed tables showing the calories of various foods including their protein, fat, and
carbs. The final third of the book offers advice on other topics, including weapons, hand tools,
clothing, energy, medical, sanitation, transportation, communications, and home preparation. The
book concludes with a list of recommended books and a brief listing of companies that sell
disaster preparation items. Overall, this is a very good preparedness book.
(Review from Amazon.com)


DON’T GET CAUGHT WITH YOUR PANTRY DOWN – James Talmage Stevens

This is an excellent book general preparedness. Its strongest feature is an almost exhaustive list
of suppliers for just about anything you might want to prepare.


EMERGENCY FOOD STORAGE AND SURVIVAL HANDBOOK - Peggy Layton

This book is broken into six main sections. The first section offers decent but very incomplete
summaries on preparing for short-term emergencies. The second section discusses how to store
and purify water. The third part talks about the logistics of setting up a food-storage program, and
has some suggestions on how to store food. The fourth section details what types of foods you
should store. The fifth section has blank inventory planning pages. And finally the last section has
some recipes. About half of the 285 page book is either blank planning pages or simple recipes.
The first half of the book is pretty good stuff, but I found this book to be incomplete. It does
however offer some good advice on food storage.
(Review from Amazon.com)


FIVE ACRES & INDEPENDENCE – M.G. Kains

If Iran’s planned high-altitude nuke fries all of our computers we will be blasted back to the 19th
century, and this book will be most handy to have. First published in 1935 it has a wealth of non-
technical information for making a living out in the country. Most of the information has not
gone out of date. Apple trees that should have been planted 35 feet apart in 1935 should still be
planted 35 feet apart. This book covers water supply, sewage, livestock, gardening, and things
such as these.

My own copy is a reprint from 1973, and has been a wealth of information for me.


THE HAVE-MORE PLAN – Ed and Carolyn Robinson

This is another of the books that helped fuel the “Back to the Land” movement. First published
in 1943, it was reprinted in The Mother Earth News issue #2. It has a wealth of information about
getting out of the big cities and doing more for yourself, with tips on livestock and gardening.
GARDENING WHEN IT COUNTS – Steve Solomon

 A “Mother Earth News book for wiser living,” this was recommended specifically by my wife,
Kathleen, who is a certified Master Gardener. This book is different from other gardening books,
in that it is geared specifically toward gardening in these changing times. The emphasis is on
moving back to how our ancestors gardened, using more hand labor and a minimal selection of
hand tools. Good for the beginning gardener as well as experienced.


HOW TO SURVIVE Y2K CHAOS IN THE CITY – Ken and Nancy Eirich

This is, naturally, a book on Y2K preparedness. Little space is spent trying to convince the reader
of the threat of Y2K, but focuses instead on what people in the large cities can do. With any of
the potential disasters, those in the large cities will be hardest hit. This book gives sound,
practical advice without a lot of fluff. Per page (It’s only 108 pages) this is the single best book
of this sort I have found.


LIVING WITHOUT ELECTRICITY – Stephen Scott and Kenneth Pellman

This is a book I got from Lehman’s, a mail order company in eastern Ohio that caters to the
Amish. Any of the potential disasters could disrupt electrical service indefinitely. This book
will get you started doing what you need to prepare.


MAKING THE BEST OF BASICS, FAMILY PREPAREDNESS HANDBOOK - James Talmage
Stevens

This book is almost completely about in-home food storage and preparation. There is little
discussion outside that (except for basic water issues). Many chapters discuss food in significant
detail, to include things like grains, recipes, preparing sourdough breads/biscuits, dairy products,
honey, sprouting, drying of fruits/vegetables. At the end of this book is a huge compendium of
preparedness resources, telling where things can be purchased in every US state.
(Review from Amazon.com)


NO SUCH THING AS DOOMSDAY - Philip L. Hoag

This book offers well-researched insights into disaster preparedness. Topics include water, food,
heating/cooking, light, power, communications, medical, sanitation, and security. Those subjects
are well done. However, much of the book reads like a bit of doomsday prediction, with many
pages devoted to scaring the heck out of the reader... focusing on missile attacks, chemical
dangers, nuclear war, radiation, decontamination, communist threat, etc. For me personally, I
would have like to see more pages devoted to likely threats (e.g. hurricanes, floods, earthquake,
blackout, fire, etc.). Also note that Amazon may not carry the latest version (updated in 2001), so
you may want to buy directly from the author.
(Review from Amazon.com)
NUCLEAR WAR SURVIVAL SKILLS – Cresson H. Kearny

This book deals exclusively with the aftermath of a nuclear attack. In addition to the usual lists of
food, water, and supplies, it contains designs for expedient blast shelters and fallout shelters.
This is an important resource in the event of suitcase nukes being detonated in the cities.

My copy is from 1982, but it was updated and expanded by the author in 1987 and can be
downloaded online from www.fi4u.com.



ORGANIZE FOR DISASTER - Judith Kolberg

This book goes an entirely different direction than the other preparedness books. Emphasis is on
understanding the federal resources (i.e. FEMA, Red Cross, etc.) available, creating a personal
intelligence network, organizing essential documents, maintaining insurance coverage, listing a
home inventory, preparing your house for disaster, basic first aid, and having a good family
communication plan. There is also a good list of necessary items to have on hand that would suit
many common disasters. I recommend this book for its common-sense look at disaster
preparedness. However, it is not the only book you would need, because it doesn't detail food
storage, water purification, heating, etc.. That said, it covers some topics that the other books
overlook.
(Review from Amazon.com)


PREPAREDNESS NOW! - Aton Edwards

This is another thorough disaster preparedness book, one that focuses more on emergency
situations (fire, chemical attack, etc.). It is organized into brief chapters (some only a few pages)
on a variety of important topics, including: water, food, shelter, sanitation, communication,
transportation, and protection. It is also filled with many packing lists detailing what you should
get in preparation. It introduces the e-kit (a very lightweight kit to keep with you) and grab-n-go
bag with more extensive items. Final chapters of the book discuss various possible disasters,
including earthquakes, tsunami, infectious diseases, chemical and bio warfare, crime, fire, and
extreme weather. Some of the commentary is a bit questionable, but the technical content is good.
Note the deficiency with this book is that it does not offer any detail on food storage.
(Review from Amazon.com)


THE RODALE HERB BOOK

Herbs have long been the staple of the healing arts. If things go as wrong as they could, we may
be left to our own devices. This book covers herbs for healing, cooking, insect control… There
are suggested layouts for planting your own herb garden, and landscaping using herbs. The book
is loaded with illustrations, which would be a help if you had to go out into the wild to find
specific herbs.
SHOOTING BACK: THE RIGHT AND DUTY OF SELF-DEFENSE – Charl Van Wyk

On July 25th, 1993, in Cape Town, South Africa, the congregation of St. James Church was
attacked by terrorists with grenades and automatic rifles. Charl Van Wyk, who carried his .38
special with him everywhere – even church – was able to return fire and drive them off. Without
Van Wyk’s intervention, the toll of 11 dead and 53 wounded would have been much higher. This
book tells of his struggles afterward, and follows his train of thought to realize that he did the
right thing. This is a good book for those who might be wondering if they could ever justify
using deadly force if their own families were in danger.


SQUARE FOOT GARDENING: A NEW WAY TO GARDEN IN LESS SPACE WITH LESS WORK
– Mel Bartholomew

The title says it all. A method to use less space and achieve higher yields. An excellent
reference.


STOCKING UP – The editors of Organic Gardening and Farming

A manual for preserving produce, meat, and dairy products using methods such as freezing,
canning, pickling, and drying. An excellent how-to resource, with sections on nutritional values,
and sources for seeds for specific varieties of fruits and vegetables.


WHEN TECHNOLOGY FAILS – Matthew Stein

If you’re old enough to remember the old Boy Scout Handbook, you’ll remember how that little
book had a wealth of information about surviving in the wilderness. This book is much the same,
only on a much broader scale to be of use for rebuilding industry on a personal level. It has all of
the survival recommendations for water purification, food storage, shelter, first aid, etc, but then
advances into metal working, sustainability, cloth making, and other things not covered by the
other books listed here. Stein is a Professional Engineer, and, as such, goes into great detail with
each topic. My copy is a first edition, but Mr. Stein has told me that he is working on a revised
edition. He asked me for my input, but I could not really find any way to improve in the
information presented.

The one thing that keeps me from giving this book unqualified approval is that he ventures into
certain religious territory that I cannot endorse, but from a purely technical standpoint, this is an
excellent book.


THE WHOLE EARTH CATALOG, THE LAST WHOLE EARTH CATALOG, THE (UPDATED)
LAST WHOLE EARTH CATALOG, THE NEXT WHOLE EARTH CATALOG, THE
MILLENNIUM WHOLE EARTH CATALOG

Long out of print, but nevertheless most useful, these books have a wealth of information about
living without technology. Besides the lists of suppliers, these books also have articles that
would be of use. There was a 30th anniversary edition of the original Whole Earth Catalog
printed in 1998. All of these are available used through Amazon.com
THE Y2K PERSONAL SURVIVAL GUIDE – Michael S. Hyatt

This book has a lot of Y2K-specific information, spending time trying to convince the reader of
the Y2K threat, but it still has much good information that would come in handy in the event of
any disaster. By the time we had gotten this book, we were well on our way to being prepared,
but we still found some useful information.


MAGAZINES

These magazines have been helpful through the years to me with articles on various topics as they
fit into each magazine’s focus. What I especially liked, though were many of the advertisements,
which led me to the suppliers of products – some of which I previously never knew existed. Most
of them we subscribed to for several years but stopped as they started repeating themselves. We
still buy them every now and then at the news stand.


BACKWOODS HOME

A good magazine with articles pertaining to getting by with no – or very little – technology.


Countryside

An excellent magazine that is about 99% reader-written. It’s the merging of several newsletters
dealing with homesteading, gardening, and livestock.


THE GUN LIST

Pretty much a list of classified ads for rifles, guns, and ammunition by private owners, plus lots
and lots of display ads by dealers for much the same. This and The Shotgun News are good
sources to find what firearms are available, and what to expect to pay.


The Mother Earth News

The older issues – many available as reprints – are an excellent source of surviving without a lot
of the technology that clutters up our lives. In the latter 80’s I let my subscription expire when
they were bought out by a large conglomerate and their emphasis shifted too much toward
appealing to the Yuppies for my tastes.

The Mother Earth News has prepared a series of special issues with reprints of pertinent articles
gathered together. A couple of those are would be of help in these circumstances;

The Mother Earth News Guide to Self-Reliant City Living

If you are stuck in the city, there are still things you can do to lessen the impact of any of these
disasters. There are articles on container gardening, energy conservation, small livestock, and
things such as these.
The Mother Earth News Guide to (Almost) Fool-Proof Gardening

This is an excellent resource for the beginner gardener who has absolutely no idea where to start.
Articles cover crops to consider, plot preparation, a suggested layout, and what to do to plan for
the next season. I’ve lent my own copy out to several friends through the years to help them get
started gardening.


ORGANIC GARDENING AND FARMING

A Rodale publication, its name says it all.



PREVENTION

Published by Rodale, this is a good source of information on supplements and natural healing.



SHOTGUN NEWS

Much like The Gun List, except there are also a few articles on related topics.



A New Addition

I have just recently come across an excellent web site: SurvivalBlog.com. It has an almost
overwhelming collection of articles in its archives from several years’ worth of a presence on the
web. The articles are grouped by topic, and would be a big help to those starting out. In addition,
a scrolling display of banner ads for suppliers can lead you to sources for your preparedness.
                                           APPENDIX II

                                      BASIC LIST TO START


Here is a list to consider of things that would be a good idea of where to start. Your needs will
differ from others’, so just start with what meets your needs and ignore the rest. Many items you
will no doubt already have, but think of things that you would use up, but cannot provide for
yourself. I have tried to make this list all-inclusive for any of the emergencies. Specific
situations may necessitate different items. Keep in mind that in any emergency such as I’ve
covered in this book, you will not be able to just go to the corner grocery to replenish anything
you have run out of.

Since I have several lists relating to health issues, I have put them in a separate appendix.


Water: One gallon per person per day just for drinking. Also additional water for cooking,
washing, and flushing the toilet.

Household bleach (unscented) or water purification tablets

Food: Canned and sealed containers or freeze-dried. Choose foods that need a minimum of
preparation. Don’t forget food for special needs or diets. Perishable foods should be in
containers small enough to allow them to be eaten in one or two meals. Several small containers
are better than one large container.

Salt: ½ tablespoon per person per day

Seasonings (My oldest son spent two weeks in Jamaica on a mission trip, far away from the
resorts. He ate nothing but unseasoned rice and chicken for every meal. Unseasoned food got
old really quickly.)

Vitamin supplements

Cooking and eating utensils. Not wanting to waste precious water on washing plates, we have
stocked up on paper plates. The best ones are grease resistant.

Paper napkins and/or paper towels

Means of warming food (Sterno, candles, charcoal, alcohol lamp.) DO NOT USE CHARCOAL
INDOORS!

Matches. Paper matches are much cheaper than wooden, and take up less space.

Manual can opener

Mechanical alarm clock or cooking timer

Aluminum foil, plastic wrap, and plastic bags.

Covered plastic cans for garbage
Chemical toilet, or plastic pail with a seat (remember, the water may shut off.) I found a seat
made specifically to fit over a 5 gallon bucket, called the “Luggable Loo” in the sporting goods
department at Wal-Mart.

Toilet paper. With my family of six, we use almost two rolls per day.

Plastic bags for the bucket. (You do NOT want to waste precious water to rinse out your bucket.)

Cans for human waste. If human waste is just dumped, there is a strong possibility of disease
being spread that much more quickly.

Toothbrushes, toothpaste, floss

Soap, detergent

Heavy-duty garbage bags

Some kind of water filtration system, and lots of filters

Tampons or sanitary napkins

Disposable latex or plastic gloves

Tape: Masking, duct, electrical, Scotch

Dust filter masks. Recommended, 3M brand #8210 N95

Candles, oil lamps, flashlights. If you are planning to use the candles and lamps for just light, I
strongly recommend the shaker light I mentioned earlier, even if the price is initially high. A
charged light will last for hours, and the flashlight has an over-all life expectancy of 10,000
hours. All that I have seen have a transparent case, so that one could be turned on and set
somewhere “face down,” and it will provide enough light to navigate a dark room.

Fire extinguishers – get units for all classes of fires, and keep near anyplace you would have an
open flame

Lamp oil

Battery-powered radio. We have one with a solar recharger, and hand crank

Batteries. Again, unless you plan to get a warehouse full of batteries, get rechargeable batteries.
It seems every few months there is a new type, making use of new technology. They cost a bit
more that the old style of rechargeables, but you avoid the problem that rechargeable batteries
used to face that erodes their ability to hold a full charge.

Recharger. Naturally, if you are facing the need for battery-powered items, your power is out. A
good investment is a solar-powered charger.

Spare glasses, contact lenses, cleaning solutions
Items to occupy long periods of time (Books, games, playing cards, etc.) In the case of bird flu or
fallout from a nearby (or upwind) dirty nuke in one of the target cities, you will need to stay
indoors for an extended period.


BARTER ITEMS

Think. What do you have around the house that you would not be able to replace if left to your
own devices? Chances are, most everyone else will be in the same situation. If the stores are
empty, cash will do you little good, especially if things are disrupted for an extended time. Here
is a list of items to accumulate for barter.

Drinking water
Candles
Matches
Coffee or tea
Cigarettes (although I’ve found that they don’t store very well. A friend made a suggestion that
               made me feel like an idiot: Canned tobacco.)
Vitamins
Medicines
Bandages and other first-aid supplies
Soap
Detergent
No-rinse shampoo
Toothpaste
Candy
Spices
Toilet paper
Canned milk
Boxes for carrying supplies
Water containers
Water purifiers
Charcoal
Sterno
Flashlights
Batteries
Disposable diapers
Baby food
Wet wipes
Pet food
Manual can openers
Duct tape
Rope
Twine
Plastic trash bags
Vegetable seeds
Garden tools
Tool handles
Portable radios
Portable toilets
Chain saws
Spark plugs
Blades
Generators
Gasoline
Diesel fuel
Kerosene
2-Cycle engine oil

The list is almost endless.
                                         APPENDIX III

                                        MEDICAL LISTS


As I’ve stated previously, I am no medical professional, and would never presume to offer any
medical advice on my own. I have therefore had to rely upon those who know these things better
than I do. With that in mind, the lists here will be gleaned from specific sources, and may overlap
some.


THE BIG FOUR

These four over-the-counter medicines are the most useful over-all as listed in Medical Self-Care.

*Aspirin – Fever reducer, pain reliever, anti-inflammitory. DO NOT GIVE TO
 CHILDREN. Use children’s strength acetaminophen (such as Tylenol), or Motrin.
*Zinc Oxide – Skin protection and itch relief
*Pseudophedrine (such as Sudafed) – Decongestant
*Chlorpheniramine - Antihistamine


DR. WOODSON’S FLU SURVIVAL KIT

This is what Dr. Grattan Woodson recommends in his book The Bird Flu Preparedness Manual.
I cannot recommend this book highly enough. The “household” items listed are for treatment for
flu symptoms, apart from their normal uses.

*Table salt – 1 pound
*Table sugar – 10 pounds
*Baking soda – 6 oz.
*Household bleach - 1 gallon (FEMA advises using 1/8 teaspoon bleach to purify a gallon of
 water; to make a solution to disinfect contaminated surfaces, add I cup of bleach to a
 gallon of water; for general disinfecting purposes, add a cup of bleach to 5 gallons of
 water.)
*Tums EX – 500 tablets
*Acetaminophen (such as Tylenol) 500mg – 100 tablets
*Ibuprofen 200mg – 100 tablets
*Caffeinated tea, dry loose – 1 pound
*Electronic thermometer (Since monitoring temperature is so crucial and it could
 malfunction, getting more than one is advisable.)
*Automatic blood pressure monitor – Dr. Woodson recommends the hand-pump variety
 rather than one with an electric pump.
*Notebook to record vital signs and fluid intake and output
*Kitchen measuring cup with 2-cup capacity
*Diphenhydramine (such as Benadryl) 25mg – 60 capsules

Also, Dr. Woodson made the following recommendations for prescription drugs that would be
useful for one person with severe flu:

*Tamiflu 75mg – 20 tablets – 2 daily (This is an expensive drug, as there is no generic
  equivalent.)
*Promethazine (Phenergan) 25mg – 60 tablets – ½ to 1 tablet every 4 hours as needed for
 nausea
*Hydrocodone with acetaminophen (Lortab-5) 5mg-325mg – 60 tablets – ½ to 1 tablet every
 4 hours as needed for cough or pain
*Diazepam (Valium) 5mg – 60 tablets – ½ to 1 tablet twice daily as needed for anxiety,
 muscle aches, or insomnia

Dr. Woodson’s ORS Formula

The ORS formula is simply an IV solution that is given orally. One of the chief dangers to a flu
patient is dehydration, either from vomiting, diarrhea, or high fever.. Dr. Woodson maintains that
preventing dehydration will save more flu patients than all of the other treatments combined.
This mixture will be better for the patient than plain water.

4 cups clean water
3 tablespoons sugar or honey
¼ teaspoon salt

If you so desire, the formula can be flavored with citrus, mint, or herbs.


OVER-THE-COUNTER DRUGS

Aspirin
Ibuprofen
Acetaminophen
Antacids
Anti-Diarrhea medicine
Laxative
Syrup of ipecac
Witch Hazel
Potassium iodide if you are at risk for radiation. You may have to get it online –
                        One source is http://www.ki4u.com


FIRST-AID KIT (You might be the only source for medical help.)

First-Aid manual
Antiseptic rinse or hydrogen peroxide
Antibiotic soap
Rubbing alcohol
Selection of sterile adhesive bandages
Rolls of gauze
Adhesive tape
Sterile gauze pads, an assortment from 2’’ to 4”
Antiseptic spray
Antibiotic ointment
Sutures or butterfly closures
Tweezers
Eye wash
Latex or vinyl gloves
Splints
Ace bandages
Pain killers


MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS

Medical books – at the very least a First-Aid manual

Special medications (Insulin, heart medicine, allergy medicine, etc.)

Field surgery kit


HERBAL REMEDIES FOR COMMON PROBLEMS

If any of the disruptions last for an extended period, you may find that there are things you just
plain didn’t stock up enough of. Things such as reading material may be merely an annoyance,
but things like medicine could really affect your quality-of-life. Here is a list of herbal remedies
that could make a big difference.

Allergies                Garlic, Stinging Nettle, Ginkgo
Anxiety                  Hops, Kava-Kava, Valerian
Arthritic Pain           Cayenne applied externally, Celery seed, Ginger, Turmeric

Bronchitis               Echinacea, Garlic
Burns                    Aloe applied externally
Colds                    Echinacea, Ginger, Lemon Balm, Garlic

Cholesterol              Garlic
Constipation             Flaxseed, Psyllium
Mild Depression          St. John’s Wort

Diarrhea                 Bilberry, Raspberry
Menstruation Pain        Kava-Kava, Raspberry
Earache                  Echinacea, Garlic, Mullein

Flu                      Echinacea, Elderberry
Gas                      Dill, Fennel, Peppermint
Hay Fever                Stinging Nettle

Headache                 Feverfew, Willow
Heartburn                Angelica, Chamomile, Peppermint
Hepatitis                Dandelion, Milk Thistle, Turmeric

Hives                    Stinging Nettle
Indigestion              Chamomile, Ginger, Peppermint
Insomnia                 Chamomile, Hops, Lemon Balm, Valerian, Kava-Kava,
                         Evening Primrose
Irregularity             Flaxseed, Plantain, Senna
Lower Back Pain          Cayenne applied externally, Thyme
Migraine                 Feverfew

Motion Sickness          Ginger
Nausea                   Ginger, Peppermint
Rash from Allergies      Evening Primrose

Sprain                   Arnica, Calendula
Stress                   Kava-Kava, Valerian
Toothache                Cloves, Willow

Urinary Tract Infection Cranberry, Stinging Nettle
Vaginitis               Garlic, Golden Seal


A REMEDY FOR BIRD FLU?

Recent studies seem to indicate that elderberries may contain compounds that can combat the
effects of Avian Flu H5N1.

Elderberry wine was traditionally used for influenza and the ill effects of the chills, and the juice
of the black elderberry has historically been an invaluable remedy. The elder has often been
called the 'medicine chest" of the country people.

Israeli virologist Dr. Madeleine Mumcuoglu has done research into elderberries’ curative
properties, and created Sambucol, a patented compound for fighting influenza. While Sambucol
is a refined and concentrated form of elderberries’ active ingredients, virtually anything
containing elderberries will help reduce the effects of the flu, or even prevent it. Consuming
fresh elderberries, preserves, juice, even elderberry wine will have a positive effective. If you
have elderberry bushes of your own, the blossoms are even more effective than the fruit.

Warning: any part of the elderberry plant except for the berries and berry stems is poisonous.

Sambucol is available through most health food stores.
                                         APPENDIX IV


                                EXPEDIENT FALLOUT SHELTERS


In the event that al-Qaeda carries out their plan for American Hiroshima, they will be using
suitcase nukes, “dirty” bombs that will be relatively small as far as nuclear bombs go, but will
create a massive amount of radioactive fallout. This spells bad news for anyone in the targeted
cities, and those downwind from them.

Here are the locations of the targeted cities. The prevailing winds are from the West, so you can
look for yourself how much of a threat fallout would be.




The targeted cities are New York, Miami, Los Angeles, Philadelphia, Chicago, San Francisco,
Las Vegas, Boston and Washington, DC. The farther away you are from these cities, the less
effect you will have from fallout.

Many of my Cold War-era reference books detail the blast radii and fallout patterns for nuclear
bombs ranging from 1 to 25 megatons (the equivalent power of 1 million to 25 million metric
tons of dynamite.) The blast radius for a 25 MT explosion would create a crater almost a mile in
diameter, vaporize anything within a 5 mile radius, start fires within 14 miles, and spread
radioactive fallout for hundreds of miles downwind from the blast.

Suitcase nukes will be much smaller, anywhere from 1 to 10 kilotons (1,000 to 10,000 metric
tons of dynamite), a fraction of nuclear warheads, but still extremely destructive. The blast radius
and fireball will be much smaller, and the range downwind of fallout will be much less, although,
I’m sure this isn’t much good news if you are in one of the targeted cities.
Suitcase nukes will be detonated with virtually no warning. Al-Qaeta’s plan is to set off their
bombs simultaneously. There will be no time to prepare a blast shelter or even go to one. If you
are far enough away to not be immediately incinerated, there are means of shelter to protect
yourself from the full force of the shock wave.
Do whatever you can to get out of the direct force of the blast. Once you have gotten past the
initial blast you will have a little time to find shelter before the dust and debris that has been
thrown up into the air will start coming back down – now radioactive from the nuclear material.
If you do not live in one of the cities hit by al-Qaeta, but are still at risk because you are
downwind, you will have a little more time to prepare.

EXPEDIENT FALLOUT SHELTERS

If you can find a means to stay indoors for an extended period, time will be on your side. The
area will not be “hot” for 10,000 years as some claim. Generally, the fallout has lost about 90%
of its strength in 7 hours. After 2 weeks, the fallout has lost 99.9% of it’s strength, but if the
radiation levels started out high, that 1/10 of a percent could still be deadly. Radiation exposure
is measured in roentgens per hour, and the effects accumulate. You need to stay away from the
effects of the fallout using a combination of distance, shielding, and time.

Choose a place in the house as far from outside walls as possible. If you have a basement, that
would be your best place. If you have time, pile dirt along the foundation walls to add additional
shielding to what is already there.
If you do not have a basement, then do whatever you can to create a shelter in the center of the
house, putting whatever you can between you and the outside to serve as shielding. Don’t forget
that fallout will collect on the roof, and consequently irradiating you from there too.
                                          APPENDIX V


                                           SUPPLIERS


Here is a list of suppliers of survival food, equipment, and literature. I have done business with
some of them, but not all. I cannot vouch for the integrity of those I don’t know. What I have
done is make sure that they are still in business. For those with a web site, I have included the
URL. There are soooo many suppliers out there that several pages would still give just a fraction.
Those I have listed will cover virtually all of the needs enumerated in this report. If you wish to
check out others, open a browser and do a search with “Survival.”

I have excluded suppliers for items that could be gotten at a department store, sporting goods
store, or farmers’ supply store.


JRH Enterprises
P.O. Box 317
West Green, GA 31567
912-379-9441
912-375-1480
(Fax) 912-379-9441
www.jrhenterprises.com

Just about anything you would want to fill out your supplies – medical kits, freeze-dried foods,
gas masks, radiation detectors, gun parts, water filters, etc.


Lehman’s
P.O. Box 41
Kidron, OH 44636
877-438-5346
www.lehmans.com

Everything non-electric. Located in eastern Ohio, Lehman’s is right in Amish country, and
serves their Amish neighbors. I have had nothing but good experiences with these people.



Global Merchants
2355 Foothill Blvd., #212
La Verne, CA 91750-3027
909-429-0073
(Fax) 909-822-5699
www.global-merchants.com

A nice variety of solar products, including radios, battery chargers, and rechargeable flashlights.
AmericaSecured.com
(No street address available. Phone or internet only)
1-800-571-9860
www.americasecured.com

A selection of security products, including stun guns and diversion safes.



J & L Self Defense Products
70 Defense Drive
Berkeley Springs, WV 25411
304-258-2900
(Fax) 304-258-3100
www.selfdefenseproducts.com

Another source for security products, weapons, books and videos. Downloadable catalog.



Bountiful Gardens
18001 Shafer Ranch Rd
Willits CA 95490
707-459-6410
(Fax) 707-459-1925
Hours: 9am to 4 pm, pacific time, weekdays
http://www.bountifulgardens.org/

A source for heirloom, open pollinated, untreated vegetable seeds, as well as books and tools.


KI4U, Inc.
212 Oil Patch Lane
Gonzales, TX 78629
(830) 672-8734
http://www.ki4u.com

Just about anything you’d need for preparations for a nuclear attack. Equipment, books, and
particularly potassium iodide (KI) for help in preventing radiation absorption by the thyroid
gland. Besides things for sale, the site answers frequently-asked questions, and offers an updated
edition of Nuclear War Survival Skills by Cresson H. Kearny for free download.
                                          APPENDIX VI

                                         FOOD STORAGE




The enemies to your food storage efforts will be bacteria, vermin, heat, moisture, and oxygen –
not necessarily in that order. The main processes for preserving food, which will address one or
more of these problems, are canning, drying, air tight packing, and freezing.

Naturally, canned goods will be your first choice for food storage. The cans will need to be
protected from moisture. Most modern basements are quite dry, and the basement in an older
home can often be acceptable if the area is kept well-ventilated. Most canned goods are stamped
with the date giving the contents’ guaranteed nutritional value. The food will still be good years
after that date; it will just not necessarily be at full potency.

Doing your own canning is not all that difficult. Every fall my wife and I will spend several days
canning our own tomato sauce. Of course, if you do not already can your own vegetables, the
outlay for the equipment may be a deterrent. Kettles, racks, canning jars, lids, and a pressure
cooker (for anything other than tomatoes) can run into some serious cash, but once you have the
equipment, it will last virtually forever.

Dried beans and grains should also be a staple, and will keep almost forever. I have heard that
grain was found in the Egyptian burial vaults, and would still sprout after thousands of years. My
wife and I have found, though, that dried beans are difficult to rehydrate after several years.
Moisture and vermin will be your biggest enemies.

As with most of your preparations, you can get as elaborate as you want, or keep it simple. The
best storage method for beans and grain is to use a 5-gallon bucket with a lid that has a gasket.
The heavy plastic of the bucket and lid will protect the contents from rodents and moisture, and
with a 5-gallon bucket of grain weighing roughly 50-60 pounds, it is quite portable. Air and bugs
will be your main problem here. Oxygen will reduce the nutrition value of the food, and the
inevitable bugs will destroy much. You will almost always have a certain amount of bug eggs in
with your grain or beans. The FDA allows a certain PPM (Parts per Million) of things such as
that in anything you buy. The eggs will eventually hatch, and you want to suffocate the new bugs
before they can do any harm.

One of my sources recommends packing the contents in nitrogen. You can get a tank of
compressed nitrogen at most welding supply stores, as well as the regulator and any other
equipment needed. That is straying from my own desire for simplicity, though. Many survival
suppliers sell oxygen absorbers. These are little packets about the size of a sugar packet that are
kept in a sealed package until needed, then you put them in with your grain right before sealing
the lid. They are activated by contact with the air, and do an excellent job of removing oxygen.

The easiest route to go, though, is dry ice. Dry ice is available in almost any city (One grocery
chain with stores in Jackson sell dry ice by the checkout right along with regular ice.) Before
putting any grain or beans in your bucket, put in about an inch of dry ice. Fill the bucket with
your grain within a couple inches of the top, then put another inch of dry ice on top. Place the lid
loosely on top of the bucket. As the dry ice evaporates, the carbon dioxide will displace the air in
the bucket. Since it is heavier than air, the carbon dioxide will stay in the bucket as the air vents
from under the loose lid. Once the dry ice is done evaporating, seal the lid to keep it in.
Drying is a method of food storage that has been in practice since before recorded history. Fruits,
vegetables, meat, and fish are all items that have been dried through the years. Under the right
conditions, all you need is a window screen supported off the ground, and some dry weather. Of
course, there are electric food dryers available, and Amazon.com has several books listed with
plans for solar food dryers that are quite simple for anyone with any skills with tools at all. Once
the food is dried, put it in a sealed container. Since dried foods do not go through the high heat of
canning, and there is still some moisture, they do not keep nearly as long, and must be used much
sooner.

Another storage method to consider is a root cellar. We all have visions of a cellar dug into the
side of a hill out on the farm, with doors that could be barricaded so that it would double as a
storm cellar. This setup is ideal for storing root crops, with the surrounding soil regulating
temperatures and humidity. Unfortunately, if you do not already have access to something such
as this, it would involve a lot of work – especially if you are doing this as a hedge against
possible disasters and not as an integral part of your life.

All is not lost though. You could partition off the coldest part of your basement, ideally a section
with a window or vent that could be used to regulate the temperatures, and have a pan of water to
keep the air humid. If that is too elaborate for your tastes and you have an enclosed basement
stairwell to the outside, it could be used almost as-is. The stairs would provide built-in shelves.
If all else fails, plastic pails with alternating layers of damp sand and root crops can be assembled
and stored in an unheated garage or attic. Temperatures need to be regulated to stay just above
freezing, and humidity levels at 80%-90%.
                                          APPENDIX VII

                                  HOW LONG WILL THAT KEEP?


Throughout history mankind’s overriding issues with food have been finding enough and keeping
excess so that it is safe to eat later. Once you have determined to stock up on staples, it will be
important to maintain your supply so that you will constantly have an ample amount of food on
hand that is nourishing and safe to eat.

Except for rare cases, feed your family out of your stock, using older food first, and replacing it
with fresh. This way you will cultivate the habit of eating what you have on hand, and your food
will always be at its peak of freshness.


PREPACKAGED FOODS

Things bought off the shelf in the grocery store will have a date stamped somewhere on the
package. Short-life items such as milk will have a “Sell By” date. If kept cold, the milk is good
for a week after that date. Canned goods, packages of pasta, and things such as those will have a
“Use By” date. This date is the latest that the company will guarantee that the product is at its
peak of nutrition. If the package is kept sealed, the food is still edible for several years after the
“Use By” date, but it nutritional value may be diminished. Anything that has been around for
long should be examined carefully before eating. If it looks or smells questionable, discard it.

Things will keep better in a cool, dry place. Store, if possible, in airtight, moisture-proof
containers.

In general…

Baking powder                     1 year
Baking soda                       1 year
Beans and lentils, dried          1 year
Cake mix                          1 year
Catsup                            1 year
Crackers and cereal               1 year
Eggs                              4 months if the shells are intact
Flour                             1 year
Gelatin                           6 months
Honey                             1 year before it crystallizes – it will stay good much longer
Jams and jellies                  6 months
Mayonnaise                        Indefinitely if unopened
Molasses                          1 year
Pancake mix                       6 months
Pasta                             2 years
Peanut butter                     2 years
Powdered milk                     6 months
Rice, brown                       1 year
Rice, flavored mixes              6 months
Rice, white                       2 years
Salad dressing                    6 months
Shortening                         8 months
Soup and sauce mixes               1 year
Sugar, brown                       Indefinitely (Protect from moisture.)
Sugar, powdered                    2 years (Protect from moisture.)
Sugar, white granulated            Indefinitely (Protect from moisture.)
Syrup                              1 year
Tea bags                           6 months
Tea, instant                       1 year



FROZEN FOODS

In the event of a total collapse, it is a good bet that the electricity will be out. If the power is still
on, though, here is what you can expect from your freezer.

Note: Your best bet is a chest freezer. Air is a fluid, and as with any fluid it will seek its lowest
level. Cold air, being heavier, will flow out of an upright freezer, replaced with warmer air that
needs to be cooled after the freezer is shut. With a chest freezer the air stays put, much like the
water in a kettle. Even if the power fails a chest freezer will keep things frozen – and safe to eat –
for a much longer time.

Meat and fish should be frozen within one to two days after purchase. Fresh vegetables should be
blanched to stop the ripening process before freezing. Everything should be kept wrapped and
sealed to prevent freezer burn.

Frozen at 0 degrees Fahrenheit…

Bread                              6 months to 1 year
Butter                             6 to 9 months
Cakes                              4 to 6 months
Cheese                             6 months
Cookies                            4 to 6 months
Eggs (raw, out of shell)           1 year
Fruits                             1 year
Milk                               3 months
Pies, fruit                        1 year
Tofu                               5 months
Vegetables                         8 months to 1 year

MEAT:
Bacon                              3 months
Beef                               8 months to 1 year
Fish, fresh water, fatty           3 months
Fish, fresh water, lean            6 months
Fish, seafood                      2 to 6 months
Lamb                               1 year
Pork                               6 to 8 months
Poultry                            6 months to 1 year
Sausage                            4 months
CANNING

Canning is perhaps the method of preserving food, after freezing, that most people are familiar
with. After the initial investment for equipment (kettles, racks, mason jars, rings, and lids) the
only things that will need to be replaced each time are the lids. My wife and I have been canning
produce from our garden for decades, and it is always quite satisfying to see rows of canning jars
sitting on the table, cooling.

Also, for most canning jobs you will need a pressure cooker. Merely a bath in boiling water will
not kill the bacteria that cause botulism. Tomatoes have a high acidity and mere boiling is
adequate, although many of our sources advise a pressure cooker for tomatoes, too.

Most department stores, hardware stores, and farmers’ supply stores carry canning supplies, so
getting started is quite simple. As with most other foods, store canned goods in a cool (below 50
degrees), dry, and dark place.

Virtually all canned foods will keep reliably for up to 2 years, but we have found that tomato
sauce has lasted much longer.



DRYING

Drying is probably the oldest form of food preservation. It can be as simple as spreading out
onions on a window screen supported between a couple of sawhorses, or as elaborate as getting a
high-tech, thermostatically-controlled electric dryer. As I pointed out elsewhere, there are plans
available for solar food dryers.

Once your food has been prepared and dried, pack it into clean, airtight containers and (of course)
store it in a cool, dry, and dark place.


General shelf life for dried foods:


Food                at 70 degrees Fahrenheit     at 50 degrees Fahrenheit

Apples                      6 months                     2 years
Apricots                    8 months                     2 ½ years
Asparagus                   2 months                     6 months
Bananas                     4 months                     1 ½ years
Beans, green                4 months                     1 year
Beans, lima                 4 months                     1 year
Beets                       4 months                     1 year
Blueberries                 6 months                     2 years
Broccoli                    1 month                      3 months
Carrots                     6 months                     1 ½ years
Cherries                    1 year                       4 years
Citrus fruit peel           6 months                     2 years
Corn                        4 months                     1 year
Cucumbers                   2 months                     6 months
Dates                    1 year                            4 years
Figs                     6 months                          2 years
Garlic                   4 months                          1 year
Grapes                   6 months                          2 years
Horseradish              4 months                          1 year
Mushrooms                2 months                          6 months
Nectarines               6 months                          2 years
Onions                   4 months                          1 year
Papaya                   6 months                          2 years
Parsnips                 4 months                          1 year
Peaches                  6 months                          2 years
Pears                    6 months                          2 years
Peas                     4 months                          1 year
Peppers, hot             8 months                          2 years
Peppers, green           8 months                          2 years
Pineapple                8 months                          2 ½ years
Plums                    8 months                          2 ½ years
Potatoes, white          4 months                          1 year
Potatoes, sweet          1 month                           3 months
Pumpkin                  1 month                           3 months
Squash, Summer           1 month                           3 months
Strawberries             6 months                          2 years
Tomatoes                 3 months                          9 months
Turnips                  2 months                          6 months

Dried meat or fish will keep 2 to 3 months on the shelf, at the most.

Dried herbs and spices will keep for a year whole, or 6 months ground.



PICKLING

Pickling is another form of food preservation that has been around for a long time. It is said that
the ancient Chinese were the first. Just about any fruit of vegetable can be pickled. When one
mentions pickling, people’s first thoughts usually immediately go to dill or sweet pickles made
from cucumbers, but there are actually four different types of pickling. First is brine, which
includes “pickles,” sauerkraut, green tomatoes, and things such as these. Next is fresh-pack.
Rather than soaking in a brine for weeks, the vegetables are soaked overnight then packed in
vinegar and seasonings. Fruit pickles include whole fruits, things such as peaches or pears. They
are simmered in a “brine” of sweet and sour syrup. Relishes can be made from either fruit or
vegetables, to give either a sweet or spicy relish.

Virtually any fruit or vegetable can be pickled. Recipes abound for hundreds of different types.
After the initial process, can or freeze. The pickled produce will last on the shelf for about a year.
ROOT CELLARS

In the previous appendix I discussed makeshift root cellars. In a root cellar unprocessed fruits
and vegetables – especially root crops – can be stored for months. In contrast to most other
places for food storage, where things need to be kept cool, dry, and dark, root cellars need to be
kept cold – just above freezing – and humid, about 80% to 90%. Root crops are still “alive”
when stored unprocessed, and in warm and light conditions will continue to grow, feeding upon
their own reserves to produce foliage. Have you ever had potatoes sprout (and shrivel) before
you had a chance to use them?

Here are the general storage lives in a root cellar:

Apples                            4 to 6 months
Beets                             3 to 5 months
Broccoli                          1 to 2 weeks
Brussel sprouts                   2 weeks to 1 month
Cabbage                           1 to 4 months
Carrots                           6 months
Cauliflower                       2 weeks to 1 month
Cucumbers                         2 to 3 weeks
Eggplant                          1 to 2 weeks
Garlic                            3 to 4 months
Leeks                             1 to 3 months
Onions                            4 to 6 months
Potatoes, white                   4 to 6 months
Potatoes, sweet                   4 to 6 months
Pumpkins                          4 to 6 months
Radishes                          2 to 4 months
Squash, Winter                    4 to 6 months
Tomatoes, green                   1 to 1 ½ months
Turnips                           2 to 4 months
                                        APPENDIX VIII

                                     DEALING WITH AN EMP


Every nuclear explosion produces an electromagnetic pulse (EMP) just as a part of its makeup.
This pulse is essentially an extremely strong radio signal that will be picked up by wires and
antennas and transferred through any device connected. Where the EMP is strongest, even the
wiring in devices that are unplugged and turned off will pick up the signal. For a ground blast,
the EMP is fairly localized. A sufficiently powerful nuke set off high above the ground, however,
will have enough coverage to blanket the entire North American continent.




In 1962 the government set off a small nuclear air blast 250 miles over Johnson Island in the
south Pacific. Hawaii, about 870 miles away, experienced disruption of their electrical grid.

As with any signal, the EMP will lose strength the farther it gets from its source. The EMP from
a blast 300 miles over, say, Nebraska will be reduced to about 30% of its strength by the time the
pulse reaches the coasts. This will still be strong enough to ruin any electrical system that is not
heavily shielded. In addition, systems closer to the center of the blast will be completely
destroyed, putting a strain upon what systems are still operating and creating the same cascading
effect I talked about in the chapter on electricity. This will be enough to completely disable our
entire electrical infrastructure. No matter where you are, you will be without electricity or many
of your electronic devices.
SHIELDING YOUR ELECTRONICS

If you are near the center of a blast that creates an EMP, you have no hope of protecting your
electronic equipment. It is most likely that if an attack comes in that form, there will be only one,
near the center of the country, but there may be two or more spread out. If you are fortunate
enough to be far enough away that the pulse’s energy is weakened there is a precaution you can
take with a Faraday cage.

A Faraday cage in essentially an enclosure made of a material that will serve as a conductor of
electricity. The conductive surface of the cage stops the signal from passing through. This
principle is well known by anybody who has tried to use a cell phone or play a radio in a building
with a metal framework. Of course, the stronger the signal – or as you move toward an opening
in the framework, such as a window – the easier the signal gets through. Other examples of this
principle are the microwave oven, which is a Faraday cage that keeps the microwave signal from
getting out, and a coaxial cable, with the shielding acting as a long Faraday cage.

A Faraday cage is fairly simple to make. One of my sources has separate cages for each of his
electronic devices. He takes a cardboard box that the device will fit into, then another box just
large enough to contain the first box. He then covers the larger box with aluminum foil, then the
foil with heavy plastic (6 mil) to prevent tearing. Before putting on the plastic, he attaches an
alligator clip to the foil, allowing it to protrude through the plastic. The clip is then used to attach
a ground wire to carry off any charge that the foil will collect. The inner box serves as an
insulator between the box with the foil and the enclosed device.

For larger devices, such as his television, he took an aluminized “space blanket” and used double-
sided tape every few inches to fasten 6-mil plastic to one side. He then fastened a clip and ground
wire to the blanket, and has it at the ready to throw over his components (plastic sheet toward the
device) in the event of a pending EMP. Since the EMP’s signal will travel in a straight line from
the source of the explosion, there is a good chance that his larger devices will survive.

Another source has taken a metal trash can with a tight-fitting lid and lined it with cardboard,
again, grounding the metal can. Grounding the Faraday cage is important, otherwise the metal
shell could hold a charge much like a capacitor, and discharge when you attempt to open the
enclosure.

Of course, no one has ever set off nuclear bombs to test these safeguards. There are some who
insist that the power of an EMP will be so great that Faraday cages will be ineffective against it.
My own thoughts on this are that keeping your electronics protected with a Faraday cage will
greatly increase your chances that they will survive an EMP.

One last thing to consider. Newer vehicles have electronic ignition and onboard computers to
enhance engine performance. As anyone who has had a computer component go bad can tell you,
one small glitch can shut down everything. Unless you plan to wrap your garage in foil, resign
yourself to the very real possibility that you will be without a vehicle after an EMP. If you
already have your other preparations in place, you might want to consider a vehicle – I’d suggest
a pickup – made before electronics were added to the engines, no later than mid to late 70’s.
                                         APPENDIX IX

                              THE SPREAD OF SPANISH FLU IN 1918


In 1918 a pandemic of the avian flu H1N1 – otherwise known as the Spanish flu – swept across
the globe. Approximately 10 million people died worldwide, with over 600,000 deaths in the
United States alone.

Pandemics of this sort usually come in three waves, with the second wave being the most severe.
The second wave of the Spanish flu hit the United States in September of 1918, and covered the
entire country in just four weeks. This was 1918, when extensive travel was rare, and people
were not concentrated in the large cities as they are today.

In addition, the Spanish flu had a fatality rate of only 10%. Once the H5N1 virus mutates to
allow human-to-human transmission, it will have a fatality rate of 50%.

World heath officials are talking about “when,” not “if” this happens.

My biggest fear is that people have grown weary and cynical from the news media hyping every
little thing then discarding it without a second thought as soon as it turns out to be nothing. Like
the boy who cried, “Wolf,” once the H5N1 virus starts spreading the media may be largely
ignored until it is far too late for most people to prepare.

The next page has a series of maps showing how the second wave of the Spanish flu spread
across the country. It is adapted from Dr. Woodson’s book The Bird Flu Preparedness Planner,
which Dr. Woodson adapted from America’s Forgotten Pandemic: The Influenza of 1918 by
Alfred W. Crosby.

As you look at the map, remember that the Spanish flu spread as it did when travel wasn’t nearly
as common nor extensive as it is today.
                                            CLOSING THOUGHTS



The American mindset is of the rugged individual, blazing new trails and overcoming all odds on his own. The
action movie genre is rife with tales of “one” man prevailing against impossible odds and making all the
difference.

In the real world, no one man or family can make it through any of these disasters on their own. We need the
support of neighbors and community, since - especially in this day of the division of labor – darned few of us
would have the skills to do everything that will need to be done. I’m fairly skilled at carpentry, plumbing, and
electrical work, but ask me to fix an engine and I’d be lost. Although, in certain areas, I can keep hundreds – if
not thousands – of details straight, in other areas I am one of the most disorganized people you would ever meet.
My wife’s knowledge of gardening is phenomenal, and I have picked up some of what she knows over 25 years,
but I really know only a tiny fraction of what she does. I have a friend in Ohio to whom I can turn for answers for
just about any question about firearms I might have. A friend here in Michigan is someone who can answer
virtually any computer question right off the top of his head.

We need each other if we are going to survive.

Start finding like-minded people among your friends and neighbors. Take stock of your abilities. What can you
do that others can’t? or better than others? or are skilled enough that you and others with similar skills could
pool efforts? What resources do you have? Tools, books, knowledge… You are limited only by your
imagination. Do you have no skills? Watch someone’s young children so they can make the best use of their
time.

People can pool their resources to rebuild or repair structures – ever watch an Amish barn raising? The work goes
fast. Neighbors can form patrols to watch out for those who would take advantage of the breakdown of local
government.

I am not talking about a commune here, but in the event of a disaster of the proportions that could happen, we will
most certainly need to pull together – even if only for emotional support.

Get to know your neighbors. Find like-minded people at church, at work, at the gym. If folks are skeptical, show
them the information included in previous chapters – and get ready to be laughed at. Prior to Y2K, it was no
secret among my coworkers what I was doing. During this time, my department obtained a water cooler. There
was a need for a place to store the 5-gallon jugs of water, and the space below my 16-foot drawing board was the
perfect place. While people were still getting used to the new water cooler, someone walked by my board and
asked, “What’s with all the water?” A fellow who shared my cubicle answered, “That’s just Steve’s Y2K stash.”
We all had a good laugh at my expense.

I was teased mercilessly after Y2K turned into such a big bust (and reminded of it not long ago by a coworker
who walked past my desk and saw a book on the Bird Flu.) My answer was that I was never so glad to be wrong
about anything. I made no apologies for my preparations, and I do not have any second thoughts for what I am
doing to prepare now.

The four possible disasters I have concentrated on are the ones that I felt are the most likely to happen in the not-
too-distant future, but there are things that could happen that I have not previously brought up. Both China and
North Korea have been engaging in saber-rattling. Things could escalate quickly from that part of the world.
With the Russians not able to account for vast numbers of their Cold War weapons stockpile, we have no idea
what tin-horned dictator with money and delusions of grandeur may come onto the global scene next.
In late August reports of tropical mosquitoes carrying the virus chikungunya have invaded Europe as far
north as Belgium, with 151 cases of the virus, sending 11 to the hospital and killing an elderly man.
Chikungunya virus caused panic on the French island of La Réunion in the Indian Ocean in 2005 and
2006 when an epidemic infected 180,000 people. The infection usually lasts three to five days and most
patients recover after a few weeks but up to one in 10 are left with permanent chronic joint pain, stiffness
and swelling.

With global travel as common as it is, the mosquitoes could easily find their way to the United States and cause
problems. There is no vaccine for chikungunya virus.


The information here, coupled with the additional resources listed, will give you the edge to survive in the face of
any disaster, whether it is a terrorist attack, epidemic, or “just” the usual tornado or hurricane. Allow me to
restate my offer for you to pass this information on at no charge. Forward it in an email. Post it on your web site.
Burn it onto a CD. Print it out and distribute it. Send it by smoke signal, Morse code, American Sign Language.
We need to get this information out to as many people as possible as quickly as possible. The time to prepare is
now. The time to network is now. It took Noah 120 years to design, build, and supply the ark. What if he had
waited until he felt the first drops of rain?

								
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