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2 CHICAGO READER | NOVEMBER 4, 2005 | SECTION TWO
The Business thebusiness@chicagoreader.com
Can This Eyesore Be Saved?
Bill Morton won’t let the old Adelphi Theatre go without a stink.
By Deanna Isaacs
B ill Morton was looking for a
space in Rogers Park for his
fledgling label, 4X Records,
when he googled Rogers Park and
auditorium and “the first thing that
went out Lookingglass got a discon-
certing surprise: it looked like neither
the Tribune ’s Chris Jones nor the
Sun-Times’s Hedy Weiss would be
attending that night. There was a
came up was the Adelphi.” He hiked conflict—Billy Crystal’s one-man
over to Clark and Estes to take a look at show, 700 Sundays, at the Cadillac
the 1917 brick-and-terra-cotta edifice Palace Theatre. Kelly, who handles
and says it was love at first sight. The press for Lookingglass, says they’d
doors were locked—the theater, most already changed the critics’ night
recently known as the North Shore once (when Lookingglass extended its
Cinema, showing Bollywood films, was previous production by a week) and
vacant—but Morton says he got the had been feeling rushed. If there was
owners to give him a tour of the place a chance neither of the dailies would
and then pestered them for months to be there on the ninth, it made sense
give him the key so he could clean it up to give themselves a little breathing
and try to get it open. In April 2004 he room. They decided to call everyone
set up shop amid the peeling paint and who’d received an invitation and tell
water stains, held a few events, and them the Saragossa press perform-
A. JACKSON (LEFT AND TOP); ANNA KOLAK, A_STUDIO
launched a quest to turn the old place ance would be moved to 3 PM on
into a movie, performance, and music November 12.
venue. He had to move out when tem- Kelly says he called half of the
peratures began to drop in November— 200-person list with virtually no
“the owners weren’t going to heat it,” he “push back,” but did get one strong
says. “But we had every intent of com- response. That was from Jonathan
ing back in the spring.” By that time, Abarbanel, critic for PerformInk,
however, the Adelphi had been sold to WBEZ, and the Windy City Times,
developer Chad Zuric for more than a who found in Kelly’s news two rea-
million dollars. Last week the city’s sons to take umbrage. The first was
zoning committee approved a variance Lookingglass’s decision to “inconven-
that will clear the way for a five-story ience the rest of the media rather
condominium (taller than anything than accept second-string critics
around it) on the site. The proposal will Bill Morton, the Adelphi (top), the proposed condo building (bottom) from the Tribune and Sun-Times.”
go to the City Council for approval later In Abarbanel’s view, “They’re treating
this month. the 1930s that included a row of arching new owner (who hasn’t named a price) favor of preserving the Adelphi, which us all as second-class citizens.” To
Morton, however, hasn’t given up. deco lights in the lobby and trios of ter- and restore it. According to him, the has become a crumbling eyesore, on a make things worse, when he started
He’s formed an organization, Citizens for razzo ushers saluting patrons from the damage is “superficial.” hope and a prayer.” As for the height of asking questions Abarbanel learned
the Adelphi Theater, launched a Web site entrance floor and sidewalk. A few of Former owner Mark Magill, whose the proposed condominium—a con- that, in spite of clear indications that
(adelphitheater.org), and collected more the ushers are still there, along with a grandfather bought the theater about tentious issue in the neighborhood— comp tickets for the press would not
than 1,000 signatures, many from folks plaque honoring onetime owner Ludwig 25 years ago, calls the idea of reopening Moore says “current zoning permits a be available for the sold-out Crystal
too shy to include a last name or address. Sussman, but the front of the building it a fantasy. “No one these days is seri- four-story building; this is only one show (something he’d commented
Last week, Morton says, Citizens for the has been marred by seriously misguided ous about single-screen theaters,” story taller. We should also look at on in print), Jones and Weiss were,
Adelphi “actually had the opportunity to face-lifts, and the interior bears the scars Magill says—especially one with no what we get in return.” What’s that? in fact, receiving free seats (as was
meet with Mayor Daley” to plead their of what Morton says was a burst pipe parking and a deteriorating building. “The developer will provide four Reader critic Albert Williams).
case. The meeting—a surprise to the and a bad paint job. The original ginger- Forty-ninth Ward alderman Joe Moore affordable units out of 32—over 10 per- “That’s unfortunate,” Abarbanel says.
mayor—occurred as Daley left the stage bread trim in the auditorium has been says Morton is coming forward at the cent.” Moore says the affordable units “It would have been fairer if every-
after giving a speech at a Metropolitan destroyed or obscured; what’s visible 11th hour without a feasible plan and will be priced at about $160,000 each; body paid.”
Planning Council lunch. “We had a letter now is a scaly, empty cavern with a huge with no money on the table. The build- the rest will be about $350,000. Kelly says Lookingglass is taking
for him, and we gave him a gift of a screen at one end. The Adelphi original- ing isn’t on the city’s list of buildings the flak for Crystal’s snub of a signifi-
framed picture of the Adelphi interior
from 1917,” Morton says. “He seemed
ly had 1,500 seats; more recently there
were about 900, but they’ve all been
worthy of being considered for land-
mark status, Moore points out, refer-
Crystallizing the A-List cant portion of the press. “Critics are
always complaining that we’re all
genuinely concerned. He said, ‘Oh, this uprooted. Second-floor studio space, ring to a position paper on his Web PR pro Jay Kelly says Lookingglass opening on the same night,” he says.
is nice.’ We told him it’s scheduled to be once occupied by Ed Paschke, is empty, site. “Its original facade was destroyed Theatre consulted the League of “The one time we tried to alleviate
demolished. He said he’d look into it and as are all but one of four storefronts many years ago, and most old theaters Chicago Theatres’ calendar before that, we’re slapped just as hard as if
give us a call.” flanking the theater. Morton, who says are not economically viable—all you designating November 9 as the press we forged ahead. What would any
Designed by John E.O. Pridmore as he’s trying to get landmark status for the have to do is look at the Uptown. I’d be night for Manuscript Found in other theater company have done
a neighborhood cinema and vaudeville building, thinks he’d need something doing my community a disservice by Saragossa. The date was clear, Kelly when you’re opening up against
house, the Adelphi got a makeover in like $3.3 million to purchase it from the turning down an attractive proposal in says, but soon after the invitations Billy Crystal?” v
Like to read
about reading?
November 11 is the Reader’s
Fall Books Special
CHICAGO READER | NOVEMBER 4, 2005 | SECTION TWO 3
Listings are excerpted from the Reader Restaurant Finder, an online Reader staff and contributors and (where noted) individual Raters.
database of more than 1,400 Chicago-area restaurants. Restaurants Though reviewers try to reflect the Restaurant Raters’ input,
Restaurants
are rated by more than 2,000 Reader Restaurant Raters, who feed reviews should be considered one person’s opinion; the collective
us information and comments on their dining experiences. Web Raters’ opinions are best expressed in the numbers. The complete
ratings are updated daily; print listings reflect the most current listings and information on how to become a Reader Restaurant
information available at publication time. Reviews are written by Rater are available at www.chicagoreader.com/restaurantfinder.
What’s New
Chichi Sushi in Uptown, Nuevo
Latino on the Near South Side,
What Else Is New
and the Ultimate Serbian Bakery
T
his new late-night sushi spot in Uptown is a psy-
Opened or updated in the past three chedelic fun house of aquatic-themed design.
months Bulbous columns rise from the floor like giant
sea anemones; a video wash turns one wall into a pris-
Alinea matic waterfall; a wide flat-screen monitor embedded
1723 N. Halsted | 312-867-0110 in the wall-size wine rack separating the bar from the
$$$$
dining areas screens an endless loop of aquarium
AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY/REGIONAL | DINNER:
porn. The brainchild of designer Jay Paik and execu-
SUNDAY, WEDNESDAY-SATURDAY | CLOSED
tive chef Soon Park, AGAMI, located in the south tail of
MONDAY, TUESDAY | SMOKE FREE
the rehabbed Goldblatt’s building at Broadway and
Lawrence, is clearly poised to tap
Discreetly located in a town house spitting Agami into the neighborhood’s booming
distance from chef Grant Achatz’s first 4712 N. Broadway nightlife scene—the sushi bar
employer, Charlie Trotter, Alinea is marked 773-506-1845 serves until 1 or 2 on weekends,
only by a valet’s sandwich board at the midnight during the week. It’s the
curb. Inside, a dining room and glass- kind of place that normally terrifies me, but the food is
walled kitchen share the first floor; up a set pretty amazing. Under Park, who trained with Seijero
of glass stairs covered by metal mesh mats Matsumoto at Kamehachi and put in time at Sushi
are two more small, luxuriously spare din- Wabi, the extensive menu includes novelty items like
ing rooms. The menu has changed since I the “spicy tuna rice crispy”—tidy rectangles of crisp
went there in June, but the concept buttered rice topped with spicy tuna tartare and a thin
remains the same: three prix fixe tasting slice of jalapeno. The ginger chicken roll appetizer, a
menus of experimental cuisine in 6 ($75), hefty battered-and-fried cylinder of white chicken,
12 ($110), or a daunting 24 ($175) courses; asparagus, and bell peppers in a sweetly smoky ginger
wine pairings add about $90 to the bill. teriyaki sauce, was practically an entree in itself, but
Achatz’s initial offerings included bacon the starters are doomed to play second fiddle to the
mounted on a trapeze and the by-now- sushi bar. A plate of sashimi was beautifully presented,
notorious PB&J amuse—a peeled grape with thin, firm, shockingly fresh slices of tuna, salmon,
slathered with peanut butter and wrapped shrimp, octopus, and—my pet among the fishier fish-
in brioche and served, with stem, atop a es—mackerel, all grouped around a delicate rosette of
wicked-looking wire contraption. His cur- fluke dusted with red tobiko. That old standby, the
rent menu seems to have mellowed with rainbow roll, was superb: tuna, salmon, and buttery
the change of season: the 12-course menu yellowtail wrapped around rice and a core of spicy
now includes earthier fare like cured opah tuna. The list of signature makis is a little overwhelm-
with endive and orange rind, truffle-juice ing—Park’s concoctions seem as though they’d cram
ravioli with brioche croutons and melted more tastes into one rice-rolled bite than one could
leek, and a bison fillet with multiple possibly appreciate. But the Green Turtle maki we
JOEFF DAVIS
accompanying preparations of Iranian pis- tried was a dense, sweet, rich construction of grilled
tachios. The Alinea experience remains eel, avocado, and tempura crunch topped with wasabi
tightly controlled, with specific instructions tobiko and shrimp. Arranged in a circle and outfitted
as to how certain dishes should be eaten. with a smiling turtle’s head of wasabi paste—complete Agami, the Green Turtle maki
Under less polished conditions this would with octopus-tentacle eyes—and a tail of caramelized
be annoyingly pretentious, but the sooth- eel, it was also adorable. Agami can be pricey; at least eggplant caviar and blue cheese, and a double pork exploring the palatable utilities of this bread at
ing rituals of fine dining can take the edge it’s BYO for now. —Martha Bayne chop, bone in and more like a triple—it was one gigan- home—it’s great with everything from tomatoes and
off the edgiest of cuisines. Martha Bayne tic hunk o’ meat. After that it may be hard to believe we olive oil to peanut butter and hot sauce—but none
O
pen just over a month, this sophisticated spot on ordered dessert. But we did: couldn’t say no to the so far has equaled the titanic sandwiches Simic
Bongo Room the near south side is already drawing raves Oaxacan chocolate mousse cake with sweet corn ice makes. He inserts grilled cevapcici—five fingers of
1152 S. Wabash | 312-291-0100 from Raters for its nuevo Latino comfort food. cream. CUATRO is BYO for several more weeks; take unencased beef and pork sausage—or for the one-
$$
Handsome banquettes line the walls in the main room; advantage of this to bring, as one Rater suggests, a piece version a half-pound Serbian burger, between
AMERICAN | BREAKFAST: SEVEN DAYS; LUNCH:
a row of windows in a side dining area offers a display Spanish red or a Malbec-based South American wine. split and toasted buns. There’s also a smoked pork
MONDAY-FRIDAY; SATURDAY & SUNDAY BRUNCH
of autumn color that’s especially stunning against the —Kate Schmidt tenderloin sandwich, one with pork kebabs wrapped
bold blue wall. Appetizers (seafood cocktail, in bacon, and a smoked sausage, a curious but deli-
D
Last November a water main burst in the empanadas, tamales) looked so tempting it was hard to ragan Simic and his nephew Milos Milosevic cious tube steak that would be reminiscent of a Slim
basement of the historic Somerset Hotel make our choices, but the vegetari- named FONTANA, their spiffy new cafe and Jim if those venerable snax actually tasted of meat.
building, flooding the first-floor restaurant, Cuatro an ceviche was a good pick: crunchy grill in Irving Park, for the north Belgrade Simic puts a couple of hot specials on the board
Room 12. Ten months later the breakfast- 2030 S. Wabash hearts of palm, mushrooms, aspara- neighborhood where they grew up. For their every day too, like a bowl of stuffed cabbage in sour
brunch spot reopened as Bongo Room, also 312-842-8856 gus, avocado, and pico de gallo in a brethren emigres they stock dry goods from the peppery broth or paprikash, a soupy version with
the name of its trendier twin sister in bright-tasting citrus dressing. Balkans behind a display case of sweet and savory chunks of pork, bacon, and potato. Under a heat
Bucktown. The food is the same at both Flautas de barbacoa were also mighty tasty, corn cigars pastries with names light on vow- lamp there are gargantuan burek as well; available
places—a good thing when that means deli- stuffed with savory slow-roasted beef and served with Fontana els. Another case preserves cheeses, with cheese or meat fillings, they maintain their
cious, creative variations on brunch clas- deeply flavored red salsa. But the standout of the 3424 W. Irving meats, and patés for custom sand- crispiness after reheating. Simic ran his own restau-
sics. The menu is anchored by omelets—the evening had to be the moqueca do mar, a seafood stew Park wiches made with bread baked on rant back in Belgrade, but Maria Micanovic, his
25 options for ingredients include Havarti, with a kick-ass tomato-coconut milk broth perfumed 773-279-9359 the spot each morning. These nephew’s girlfriend and the ever present face behind
smoked Gouda, and ten other cheeses—and with saffron and served with a little silver dish of rice include the extremely adaptable the counter, says establishments so sundry don’t
a popular breakfast burrito. There are sev- and a few tostones. Other main dishes include beer- lepinja, a puffy, crusty discus of leavened glory that really exist back in the Balkans: “This is like a little
eral over-the-top twists on syrup stan- braised beef short ribs, three more seafood prepara- somehow encompasses the best features of pita and bit of everything from back home in one place.”
dards: pumpkin-carrot cheesecake flap- tions, an appealing-sounding chile relleno stuffed with English muffins. For the past month I’ve been —Mike Sula
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