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Fall 2004 • Vol. 4, Issue 2 Vermont Cheese Wins Big Two major cheese competitions were held this summer – one on US soil and the other abroad. In both, Vermont cheesemakers fared very well with six separate cheesemakers pulling in 20 awards between the two competitions. Shown at left, ACS first place winner Thistle Hill’s Tarentaise. (see story page 3) Willow Smart of Willow Hill Cheese, winner of four awards at the 17th World Cheese Awards held in September in London – more than any other US company entered in the competition. MESSAGE FROM THE PRESIDENT A Great Year for Vermont Cheeses and Cheesemakers ell, it has happened again. there was a “buzz” out there. And it felt W Summer has slipped us by, and the autumn leaves have all dropped. The fresh, yellow-hued milk of good. Hopefully the winter will be just as fruitful. I know that I and the other spring and summer is being replaced with Executive members of the VCC have the pristine white milk of fall and winter. some pet projects that we are working on. A few of us are winding down our And all of us have cheese to make, age, operations for the season, while others are experiment with, and hopefully just getting theirs going. It is now time to somewhere in there, sell. dawn our parkas and say hello to sunset at I have been nothing but proud of what 4:30. I’ve seen being produced in this state this year. The Something happened in Vermont this year. cheese makers are working as hard as ever, and it There was this somewhat intangible “buzz” in the air shows. Though I am somewhat new to the scene, surrounding the cheese scene here in the state that I making cheese for just four years now, I hope to had not felt in recent years. Maybe I was just more continue to be a part of this great group for many aware of what was going on; being that this was my years to come. The more I make, the more I enjoy first year as the VCC President. But I would like to the route I have taken. And I can only hope that think that it was actually more of what my gut was the council continues to grow in numbers and in telling me. That people were, to a greater degree, potential. This is a unique group of people. From taking notice of what we’ve been doing in this little cheese makers, to food related professionals, to state, tucked way up here in the North East corner. university professors, to members of Vermont’s People were getting just as excited to try some of our Department of Agriculture. All of us have different cheeses as we are to make them. backgrounds, different stories to tell, different A lot has happened this year. A fine showing at animals we milk - but we all share a similar goal. To this years ACS awards in Milwaukee. Awards make the best, most individually recognizable brought home from the World Cheese Awards in the cheeses we can. To get people to expand what they UK. The inception of the Vermont Institute for know, and think they know about cheese. And to Artisinal Cheeses (VIAC) in conjunction with the hopefully get a few from outside the state to come University of Vermont. The wonderful Water Buffalo and pay a visit; see our farms, see our herds, and cheese and yoghurts from Star Hill Dairy. New see why we all choose to live in this rural cheese makers in the Northeast Kingdom getting wonderland. National coverage on television and in newspapers. Vermont cheese makers being invited to Italy Jamie Miller, Shelburne Farms through the folks at Slow Food USA. Various articles President in food and wine related magazines. Like I said, 2 Vermont Cheeses Earn Awards American Cheese Society and World Cheese Awards number Vermonters among winners American Cheese Society Awards he American Cheese Society (ACS) Awards T aesthetics (e.g. flavor, aroma and texture). One hundred Ceremony was held in Milwaukee, Wisconsin in and eleven (111) cheese making companies from the US July. In this competition, cheeses are judged both and Canada entered the competition. Vermont winners on their technical merit as well as on measures of were: Company Award Category Cheese Cabot Creamery 1st place Monterey Jack made from Cow’s milk Monterey Jack 1st place Cheddars; flavor added Five Peppercorn Cheddar 2nd place Aged Cheddars, all milks (12-24 months) Private Stock Cheddar 3rd place Butters Whey Cream Butter Willow Hill Farm 2nd place Open Category, sheep or mixed milk Summer Tomme 2nd place Cultured products made from sheep’s milk Organic Sheep Yogurt Shelburne Farms 1st place Smoked Cheddar Smoked Cheddar 2nd place Mature Cheddars (aged + 25 months) 25 Month Cheddar 3rd place Cheese Spreads Roasted Red Pepper Cheddar Vermont Butter & 1st place Feta Cheese Vermont Goats’ Milk Feta Cheese Company 2nd place Fresh Goat Cheese; flavor added Vermont Chevre Herb 3rd place Crème Fraiche from cow’s milk Vermont Crème Fraiche 3rd place Quark Cheese from cow’s Milk Vermont Quark Thistle Hill Farm 1st place Farmstead Cheese; all milks; Tarentaise aged longer than 90 days World Cheese Awards At the 17th World Cheese Awards in London in Sept- American companies to earn medals in the Cheddar cate- ember, US cheese makers earned 44 medals – six of them gories, no small achievement considering the contest by Vermonters. The contest attracted nearly 1,500 total took place in the United Kingdom, where cheddar was entries, including 226 from the United States. Specialty first created more than 800 years ago. Willow Hill Farm cheeses from the US earned 15 gold medals, 15 silvers and took home four awards, the most of any US company 14 bronze. Cabot Creamery Cooperative was one of two entered in the competition. Winners from Vermont were: Company Award Category Cheese Cabot Creamery Gold Mature Winter Block Cheddar Clothbound Cheddar Wheel Willow Hill Farm Gold Hard or Semi Hard Ewes’ milk cheese Autumn Oak Silver Cheese produced on a farm/dairy with output Cobble Hill not exceeding a weekly average of 2 tonnes Silver Ewes’ milk with additives Summer Tomme with Herbs Bronze Soft ewes’ milk cheese plain Vermont Brebis Vermont Bronze Hard or semi-hard ewes’ milk cheese Vermont Shepherd Shepherd 3 A Welcome Spanish Import: Cheese Evaluation Expertise By Carol Delaney, Small Ruminant the technological and sensory cheese. There, with her technical Dairy Specialist, University of characterization of traditional expertise and knowledge of the Vermont Spanish cheeses. It was her job to Italian language, she was able to collect information from cheese transfer expertise on Mozzarella s Vermont grows its numbers makers to characterize each cheese between Italian and American cheese A of cheese makers, so too grows the need for technical advice on cheese recipe development, and identify the sources of variability on the quality of the final product. She was also involved in promoting makers. Recently, through the generosity of The John Merck Fund and an tests for quality control, and sensory traditional cheeses in scientific and anonymous donor, the Northeast evaluation training for taste. social events, speaking as dairy Center for Food Entrepreneurship at Consumers will pay higher than aver- scientist and sensory expert. UVM created the Vermont Institute age prices for Vermont artisanal Through her academic and for Artisan Cheese (VIAC) to support cheeses but only if the product is professional networks, Montse and strengthen artisan cheese consistent and the flavor is good. learned about and eventually met making. Montse’s position at VIAC Most members of the Vermont UVM dairy foods research Professor has been secured for the next three Cheese Council have been making Dr. Paul Kindstedt, author of many years to provide technical assistance cheese for less than 10 years and are scientific articles that had been so and educational programs to cheese now working to perfect their original valuable for her Ph.D. work. She makers, along with research cheese recipes as well as developing immediately started a post-doctoral expertise in the area of sensory new cheese products to diversify research project with Dr. Kindstedt analysis. their product line. For the past three at UVM. I will never forget when Dr. To reach Dr. Montserrat Almena- years, the Northeast Center for Food Kindstedt hired me to work in his Aliste, (“Montse”), please contact her Entrepreneurship (NECFE) and the lab. “When I started working with at firstname.lastname@example.org. Center for Sustainable Agriculture s him I knew he was a expert in Source: Cultivating Connections, Small Ruminant Dairy Project have Mozzarella and over these past years Spring, 2004, Volume X, Number 2. co-sponsored cheese workshops. I found out that Paul is a wonderful Now, NECFE has hired a full-time person with an incredible knowledge Available: Extra Hands associate to work with cheese mak- in dairy technology and a passion for The University of Vermont’s ers. Dr. Montserrat ( Montse ) Vermont and artisan cheese making,” Department of Nutrition and Almena-Aliste brings years of training Montse said. Her two years of Food Sciences has students who and work with European cheese mak- research focused on identifying the are interested in gaining ers to her new position in Vermont. phenomena that determine the experience outside of the Montse was born in Ponferrada, functional and textural quality of classroom. If you are a business Spain, in the northwest corner of the mozzarella and cream cheeses. She or organization that could country. She received her Master’s was also enlisted to teach a sensory provide a food science or degree in Analytical Chemistry, evaluation course at UVM and part of nutrition-related volunteer Nutrition and Inspection of Foods at a cheese workshop held at NECFE to opportunity or internship to an the University of Santiago de help cheese makers learn about excited student, please contact: Compostela in Lugo, Spain, and did sensory evaluation of cheeses. her a Ph.D research in Poligny, Montse also spent time helping Linda Berlin France where she studied cheese Vermont Cheese Council member 309A Terrill Hall, 570 Main St. texture and technology after which and water buffalo farm in South University of Vermont she returned to the University of Woodstock, Star Hill Dairy, Inc., Burlington, VT 05405-0148 Santiago to direct a cheese quality develop their recipes for plain and 802-656-0669 (phone) project. There, she worked to refine flavored yogurts and mozzarella 802-656-0407 (fax) 4 Top Boston Restaurant Hosts Vermont Cheeses and Cheesemakers onsidered to be among the cheesemakers. “For years, we have The fixed price cost for the cheese C best, if not THE best restaurant in Boston, L’Espalier is a chic and modern been the premiere cheese destination in Boston and we are always seeking out new cheeses and dinner is $55 and that includes wines paired with each course. On the internet, one can find restaurant featuring inventive New cheesemakers. We have met some numerous ratings of the restaurant England-French cuisine based on really fascinating people along the by patrons. One, posted in October fresh, regional ingredients. Located way, and wanted them to be able to of last year by Max, wrote, “My in the heart of fashionable Back Bay, share their stories with our guests. favorite “special place” restaurant in on the corner of Newbury and This cheese series is also in line with Boston, by far. L’Espalier is elegant, Gloucester Streets, L’Espalier has L’Espalier’s philosophy of using only the menu is wonderful and the food long been a supporter of regional the freshest ingredients from New is second to none. Try the cheese artisinal cheeses and has included England farms and farmers. We are course or the caviar course, it’s Hope Farm’s Tomme de Brebis and very excited to be presenting these different, wonderful, and certainly a Lazy Lady Farm’s goat’s milk cheeses cheesemakers to the Boston public,” culinary experience that is not to be on their cheese tray for the past few says Risoli. Each evening in the missed. “Of her experience as a years. cheesemakers series includes a four- cheesemaker showcased at the In addition to that, Chef Frank course dinner with a different wine restaurant, Lazy Lady’s Laini McClelland and fromager Louis Risoli paired with each course. The fourth Fondellier said it was: “incredible, have created the New England course is a grand cheese tasting unbelievable, beyond all my wildest Cheesemakers Series, as part of their selected by the featured guest. Nick dreams. Never eaten so well in all my ever-popular Cheese Tuesday series, Tranquillo, L’Espalier’s Assistant life, I was treated like a celebrity. which has been delighting cheese- Maitre D’ and the restaurant’s liaison The folks at L’Espailer were generous loving patrons since 2002. As part of with the cheesemakers, has brought way beyond the call of duty, every the New England Cheesemakers in Mark and Gari Fischer from plate full of food was a work of art Series, L’Espalier has welcomed a Woodcock Farm, John and Janine ...on top of being totally delicious.” number of Vermont’s finest cheese- Putnam from Thistle Hill Farm, Look for L’Espalier to bring more makers to participate in a series of Willow Smart from Willow Hill Farm Vermont cheesemakers and their special events centered on these and Laini Fondiller from Lazy Lady unique cheeses to Boston over the distinguished, and often quirky, Farm in Westfield so far this year. coming months. A sampling of current Vermont cheeses. 5 Vermont Institute for Artisan Cheese Offers Training The following is excerpted from an Doolan and Dimmick are prime designed for huge industrial food pro- article, Big Help for Small Cheese, examples of the type of cheesemaker ducers, to managing the natural vari- by Melissa Pasanen published in the the newly launched Vermont ability of milk from pastured animals Burlington Free Press on June 22, Institute for Artisan Cheese was cre- while delivering the consistent 2004. ated to help. The institute grew out cheese that customers expect. of the work of Catherine Donnelly “Cheesemakers often recall that he new Vermont Institute for T and Paul Kindstedt, internationally when they started they were making Artisan Cheese located at the recognized food scientists and long- 40 different cheeses, and they were University of Vermont held a time professors in the University of only supposed to be making one,” daylong course this summer at the Vermont’s nutrition and food science Donnelly noted. Coach Barn at Shelburne Farms department. Funding of more than The new institute will not only designed to help more than a dozen half a million dollars was secured provide regular educational opportu- cheesemakers refined their ability to through the efforts of Sen. James nities such as like the cheddar work- distinguish good Cheddar from bad. Jeffords, I-Vt., as well as contribu- shop, but also help connect cheese- “The texture of each cheese, tions from the John Merck Fund and makers with experts who can assist explained Dr. Montserrat Almena- an anonymous donor. them through scientific and commer- Aliste, a member of the institute’s In Vermont, small cheese opera- cial issues, and even offer “house technical staff, must be evaluated for tions are a bright spot in farming. calls” for on-site technical assistance. its elasticity, firmness, deformability, There are more than 30 such cheese- It is modeled after similar organiza- friability and adhesivity.” (see related makers across the state, many of tions in France, Italy and Spain, but story on Cheese Evaluation, page 4). whom have won prestigious national is the first institution in this country Kristan Doolan of Does’ Leap Farm awards in the increasingly competi- to focus on the needs of small cheese- in Bakersfield held a hunk of cheese tive domestic segment. “Ten years makers. to her nose and sniffed intently for a ago here at the American Cheese “There was a vacuum,” agreed few moments before she wrote Society annual awards, we evaluated workshop attendee Jim Wallace of “nuts” and “toasty” on her four-page 50 cheeses,” Donnelly told the group. Shelburne Falls, Mass., who works cheese sensory evaluation form. “Last year in San Francisco, we had for New England Cheesemaking Doolan makes fresh and aged goat 589 cheeses.” Supply, a company that has taught cheese. While she has no plans to Artisan cheese, as Donnelly small-scale cheesemaking and sold make a Cheddar-style cheese, “you explains it, “is typically handcrafted equipment and materials to cheese- can always learn something about cheese made in the European tradi- makers for 25 years. “Other cheese cheese,” Doolan said. tion. It’s not the plastic-wrapped science institutions in this country Seated a few chairs away was commodity cheese. Often it is also have concentrated more on the Linda Dimmick of Neighborly Farms, what we call farmstead cheese, industrial cheeses,” he explained. who is very familiar with Cheddars -- which is manufactured from a closed “We get phone calls every day from the focus of her family’s organic herd and usually the cheesemaker is all over the country looking for help. dairy in Randolph Center. also the animal herdsperson, so they It’s absolutely fabulous that this Commenting on the first cheese sam- know the composition of the grasses, exists.” ple, Dimmick said, “The bitterness they know the animals that produce Donnelly emphasized that “having reminded me of the Cheddar I made the milk. That way the milk that you the best science available will give in the beginning. I had this big facto- get for cheesemaking is the highest Vermont cheesemakers a leg up,” ry cheese guy showing me how to do quality.” and, even as the institute helps oth- it, and he told me to add lots of cul- Along with growing competition, ers across the country, “It will halo ture to speed it up — but we’re just the challenges facing small cheese- back on Vermont. By helping all of small farmstead guys. We’re not in makers are numerous: from navigat- us, we’re helping ourselves.” that kind of hurry.” ing government regulations that are 6 The Training Center for Farmstead Milk Processing at Westminster Dairy Presents Workshops series of two-day workshops 2005 Schedule April 23-24 Soft-ripened cheeses: A and seminars in making cheese and other dairy products on the farm, taught by Peter January 15-16 Cheesemaking and Starter Culture Technology with Brie, Camembert, Aged Goat cheeses, French Tomme, Butter and Crème Fraiche from cow and Dixon and special guests. Through Margaret Morris: Gouda, Aged goat milk. making cheese and other dairy goat cheeses, and Tomme cheese- products and receiving classroom making and classroom instruction. May 7-8 Cheeses of the instruction at Westminster Dairy, a Mediterranean: Feta, Kashkaval, licensed Vermont farmstead, February 12-13 Four Blue cheeses Fresh Mozzarella, Corsican-style certified-organic milk processor, from goat and cow milk, including tomme, Ricotta and Yogurt from participants will learn the Bleu de Gex (tomme-style). goat, sheep and cow milk. fundamentals of milk processing and how to set up and improve their own March 12-13 British cheeses: May 21-22 Alpine cheeses: Swiss, farmstead cheese businesses. During Caerphilly, Colwick, Cheddar Asiago, Tomme and Toma, Butter the two days, we will make butter, (cloth-bound), and Chesire from and Sour Cream from cow and yogurt, starter cultures, other fresh cow milk. goat milk. cultured dairy products and at least four varieties of cheese. A simple raw milk tomme-style cheese will be Peter Dixon (left) made in all the workshops. Lunches getting “hands- and course materials, including many on” with novice tried and true recipes, will be cheesemakers. provided. Cost is $250; a $50 deposit is required and the remainder is payable on arrival. Classes are from 9 am to 4 pm each day. All of the classes will be held at the Fischers’ Woodcock Farm in Weston, VT. Contact Peter Dixon at 802-387- 4041 or e-mail email@example.com for further details and to register and receive directions. 2004 Workshop/ Seminar Schedule Goat Dairies of Distinction in Vermont November 20 The Business and The Vermont division of the Northeast Dairy Farm Beautification Regulation of Farmstead Milk Program chose 165 farms to receive the honor of “Dairy of Distinction” Processing with Greg Lockwood, this year. These farms that apply are visited in June and their land and VT State Dairy Plant Inspector. animal management are viewed to recognize those farms that maintain attractive, well-kept farmsteads to support the effort to promote a December 4-5 Italian cheeses: positive dairy farm image. Good manure management and good care of Romano, Toma, Provolone, Fresh animals are rewarded. Among the five goat dairies to receive the award Mozzarella, and Ricotta from goat was VCC member Joanne James, Lakes End Cheeses, Alburg. and cow milk. 7 LET’S VISIT... Hope Farm A marriage of ingenuity and hard work = great cheese Christopher Dale arbara and Harvey Levin make barn roof for which he had to forgo B their home in the shadow of Westmore Mountain in the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont on a his fear of heights. One of Harv’s more creative and practical building projects was the creation of a little sheep dairy they call Hope unique, hard plastic cheese press Farm. There, they raise sheep for that sits atop a work table in their meat and milk. The milk they turn pristine and tidy cheese room. “It into three varieties of decidedly cleans up well, “says Harv, an delicious farmstead, raw sheep milk understated, modest man. One gets cheese. It’s a relatively small the sense that Harv could fix or built operation, currently yielding about anything he set his mind to. That 1,000 pounds of cheese each year kind of “can-do” spirit led the couple but, along with the meat sales, it’s into their cheesemaking business been enough to help support the which has proven to be both couple and their border collie, Mac, successful and “very gratifying” since they walked away from according to Barbara who also “regular” jobs a few years ago. weaves during the long, cold Though East Charleston, the Vermont winters and “wallows” in hamlet in which Hope Farms lays, is the Sunday New York Times when not exactly on the way from or to time permits. The off-season also anywhere in particular, it is a bucolic affords Harv a catch up around the setting discovered by the Levins in farm, repairing and rebuilding 2001 when they set out to make the whatever needs work at their 100 move to Vermont. Though they came plus year old homestead. to Vermont from another small sheep When spring comes around, the farm in Chester, New Hampshire – cheesemaking season kicks in in where they had been raising sheep Barbara and Harvey Levin with earnest. From mid-May though Fall since 1981, their path to Hope Farm their border collie, Mac. foliage you can find the Levins was an indirect one, as is mostly the tending their mixed flock of milkers, case with Vermont’s artisinal cheese- working in the cheese room or makers. she plods along in rubber boots. She traveling around the region to sell looks at home. Harv, too, looks like their wares. The Farmer’s Markets in From Big City to the the farm suits him. The couple met Danville and St. Johnsbury have country when Harv was a patron at a jazz bar become regular sales venues for Harv and Barbara got to Vermont in Greenwich Village where Barbara Hope Farm in season as have some by way of New York City with a 23 worked on the weekends during her regional retailers including Newport year stop over in rural New days at Hunter College. They’ve been Natural Foods and the Kingdom Hampshire. In New York, Barbara married now for 30 years. County Coop. Though the Levins once earned her living as a dancer, Harv’s degree in mechanical once questioned whether anyone doing shows and concert work and, engineering from the Newark College would want to buy the cheeses they later, as a physical therapist. Walking of Engineering has come in very produced, they have had no trouble the field with her dog, her dancer’s handy in the farm-based lifestyle that selling out all that they can make of training is apparent on this particular he embraced years ago. He has built, three varieties: Tomme de Brebis, cool late summer day. She is repaired or rebuilt just about Pierce Hill and Summer Daze, and straight, strong and graceful though everything on the farm including the that includes to customers well 8 Christopher Dale Hope Farm, nestled in the shadow of Westmore Mountain. ultimately double their cheese production. With demand continuing to grow along with the reputation of their beyond the reach of northeastern ever since.” (see related story on cheese, this is a hope that should be Vermont. Boston Restaurant showcasing easily realized. “Hope” remains an Vermont cheeses.) Other customers operative word in all that the Levins Cheese Traveling from out of state have also have undertaken. “When we started Out of State discovered the cheeses of Hope farming in New Hampshire, we Through the Vermont Cheese Farm, such as the mother of her prefaced much of our plans with Council’s web site neighbor who lives in Texas, had a saying “I hope this will work or that (www.vtcheese.com) and as a result taste of Tomme on a visit once and will work,” which led to the genesis of the VCC newsletter, word has still wants more. Barbara of the name of the farm,” says traveled far beyond the shadow of accommodates all she can. Barbara. Now, some 25 years later, Westmore Mountain that there’s As for the future, the Levins hope they are still hoping but with a little “gold in them there hills” – golden, to transition their 30 milkers to a full more certainty about the outcome. creamy, flavorful cheese. Among dairy breed so that they can Hope Farm has lived up to its name. their unexpected customers has been the upscale restaurants L’Espalier of Boston and Moxie’s of Cleveland, both of which buys wheels of Hope Farm’s Tomme for inclusion on their USDA Rural Development’s cheese plates. Nick Tranquillo, Value-Added Producer Grants Assistant Sommelier and Assistant Maitre’D at L’Espalier, one of Boston’s ederal grants may be F or for working capital operating finest restaurant, tells how he available to assist cheese- expenses related to the value- discovered Hope Farm in a blinding makers with marketing or added venture. Program snow storm in December 2003 while with the development of their information is available online at visiting friends in Northeast products. Eligible independent http://www.rurdev.usda.gov/rbs/coo Vermont. “I knew of Hope Farm from producers, agricultural producer ps/vadg.htm, or for more the Cheese Council newsletter and groups, farmer or rancher cooper- information cheesemakers may thought I’d make a visit while in the atives, and majority-controlled contact Lyn Millhiser, USDA Rural area. When I finally got through the producer-based business ventures Development Business & snow storm and arrived at the farm I may seek funds for value-added Cooperative Programs Specialist found they only had a little piece of economic planning activities such in Vermont and New Hampshire at cheese left from their season as feasibility study, business plan 802-828-6069 or production. But I tasted it and loved and marketing plan development; firstname.lastname@example.org. it. We’ve been featuring Hope Farm’s Tomme de Brebis on our cheese tray 9 SMALL BITES On May 17, 2004, over 150 people gathered around tables in the ball room at the offices of Provisions International Ltd. in White River Vt., to take part in a cheese tasting led by Max McCalman, author of The Cheese Plate, maitre fromager at the Manhattan restaurant Picholine and one of the driving forces behind the Artisanal Cheese Center in New York. The event was co- sponsored by the Vermont Cheese Council. Twelve cheeses were included in the formal tasting, three from New England and one, Constant Bliss, from Jasper Hill Max McCalman, author of The Cheese Plate, at Provisions’ event. Farm in Vermont. In addition to these twelve, there was a large table of 15 varieties of cheese made in Chipotle pepper, Garlic, Caraway, Vermont. This cheese and the Cumin, Nettle and Aged. Taylor Farm cheesemakers themselves were The June issues of Country Home, strongly encourages visitors any day available during the reception Food and Wine, House and Garden, of the week and still does a great following. It was a lively, fun, and Bon Appetit, Traditional Home and sleigh ride business (weather educational afternoon. This Old House featured full page ads permitting) throughout the winter. highlighting the cheeses of Vermont. This was a cooperative ad between the Agency of Agriculture and the Vermont Department of Tourism and Vermont Butter & Cheese Marketing. (see page 1) Local Vermont Arts and Company’s cultured butter with sea Humanities organizations have salt crystals won “outstanding cheese discovered the value of pairing wine or dairy product” in June at the and cheese for non-profit, “profit”. International Summer Fancy Food The Flynn Performing Arts Center, Show in New York City. It was also Jon Wright at Taylor Farm in located in Burlington, held a fund- written up in the New York Times, Londonderry reports that due to a raising Wine and Cheese festival on Boston Globe, and Chicago Tribune. tremendous increase in retail sales September 19 at Shelburne Farms. right at the farm, they have built an Participating VCC members included: addition to their cheese room which Cabot Creamery, Grafton Village will be ready at the time of this Cheese Company, Shelburne Farms newsletter. They’ve added a 22’x40’ and Taylor Farm cheese. And on entryway/sales room, new basement Saturday, October 9, a similar event aging room and second floor office took place at the Kellogg-Hubbard space. Currently, Taylor Farm is Library in Montpelier. Featured VCC milking a mixed herd of 45 Holsteins members included: Jasper Hill and Jerseys and are down to shipping Farm, Neighborly Farms of milk only one day/week, using the Vermont, Thistle Hill Farm, Taylor rest in their production of gouda Farm Cheese, and Vermont Butter style cheeses in the following & Cheese Company along with a varieties: traditional, Maple Smoked, dozen regional bakeries, chocolaters, and wineries. 10 Jasper Hill Farm was the focus of an article entitled “Cheese Whizzes,” that appeared in the Business section Vermont Cheese of the Times Argus on September 30. Council Member The article explored the relationship between the Greensboro, Vermont- Cheesemakers based cheesemaker and the New England Culinary School, located in Blueledge Farm, Salisbury Montpelier. A recipe for Beef Blythedale Farm, Corinth tenderloin with mesclun greens, Bonnieview Farm, peach vinaigrette and Bayley Hazen Craftsbury Common Blue Cheese, accompanied the article Cabot Creamery Cooperative, which also featured a photo of Jasper Cabot Hill cheesemaker Victoria Champlain Valley Creamery, VonHessert. Vergennes Cobb Hill, Hartland Creek Road Cheese Company, Green Mountain Blue Cheese Irasburg was mentioned in a recipe/article in Crowley Cheese, Healdville September issue of Yankee magazine Terra Madre, World Meeting of Does Leap Farm, Bakersfield titled “Harvest at Hemingway’s” Food Communities, sponsored by Franklin Foods, Enosburg Falls (photograph by Rose McNulty) Slow Food in Turin, Italy from October 20-23, 2004 featured VCC Hope Farm, Charleston cheesemakers Vermont Butter & Grafton Village Cheese, Grafton Cheese Company, Cabot Creamery, Green Mountain Blue Cheese, Thistle Hill, Peaked Mountain Highgate Center The President Calvin Coolidge Farm, Shelburne Farms, Woodcock Jasper Hill Farm, Greensboro State Historic Site hosted the Farm and Grafton Village Cheese. La Fromagerie du Royaume, Plymouth Cheese & Harvest Festival Terra Madre is a forum “for those Guildhall on Saturday, September 11. Held who seek to grow, raise, catch, create, Lakesend Cheeses, Alburg annually since 1997, the festival was distribute and promote food in ways Lazy Lady Farm, Westfield selected as one of Vermont’s “Top 10 that respect the environment, defend Maryella Farm, E. Corinth Fall Events” by the Vermont human dignity and protect the health Neighborly Farm, Randolph Chamber of Commerce in 2001 & of consumers”. Their approach to Orb Weaver Farm, New Haven 2002. This year, Cobb Hill Cheese food production is an alternative to Peaked Mountain Farm, was featured at the event which was the current industrial food Townshend attended by approximately 350 production system: one where food Pomeroy Farm, Londonderry visitors. quality and variety are valued, rural regions thrives, and links between Shelburne Farms, Shelburne producers and consumers are strong. Star Hill Dairy, S. Woodstock Taylor Farm, Inc, Londonderry Thistle Hill, North Pomfret The cheeses from Willow Hill Three Owls Sheep Dairy, Farm were featured in the Fall 2004 Granville issue of La Vie Claire, Claire Three Shepherds of the Murray’s new magazine Mad River Valley, Warren Vermont Butter and Cheese Company, Websterville Vermont Shepherd, Putney Westminster Dairy, Westminster Willow Hill Farm, Milton Woodcock Farm, Weston 11 VERMONT DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE NON-PROFIT ORG Vermont Cheese Council US POSTAGE 116 State Street PAID Montpelier, Vermont 05620-2901 PERMIT #74 MONTPELIER VT Calendar of Upcoming Events The Vermont Cheese Council Newsletter is published for Cheese Workshops from Hygiene and Food Safety food professionals. The Training Center for in Cheesemaking With written permission, Farmstead Milk Processing December 9-10, 2004 at Westminster Dairy Vermont Institute for Artisan reprinting is encouraged. Cheeses November 20 The Business and University of Vermont Contact: Regulation of Farmstead Milk (802) 656-8300 Processing THE VERMONT December 4-5 Italian cheeses Winter 2005 CHEESE COUNCIL For more information, contact Fancy Food Show® 116 State Street Peter Dixon, (802) 387-4041 January 23-25, 2005 (email@example.com) Moscone Center, San Francisco Drawer 20 www.specialtyfood.com/do/Home Montpelier, VT 05620-1901 888-523-7484 www.vtcheese.com 12
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