Get documents about "Made to Measure FINAL suit one's taste
Description
Made to Measure FINAL suit one's taste
Shared by: benbenzhou
-
Stats
- views:
- 749
- posted:
- 9/10/2010
- language:
- English
- pages:
- 3
Document Sample
1 2
BY CHARLES OBERDORF Made-to-Measure
Many men are drawn to the idea of owning a made-to-measure suit, but
find themselves faced with questions. What exactly are the benefits? Precisely
what is involved in the made-to-measure process? Allow us to explain.
PHOTOGRAPHY, CHRIS WOOD
Fall/Winter ’02 ( 33
M A D E -T O - M E A S U R E O P T I O N S
Our customers can order made-to-measure garments from an
extraordinary selection of world-leading designers.
Armani Collezioni
Armani was the first of the major fashion makers to offer made-
to-measure mens’ suits. Visibly sumptuous fabrics that hang
beautifully, and very comfortably, on the body are the hallmark.
As one Harry Rosen executive put it, “Mr. Armani made the double-
breasted jacket into a sweater.” Delivery time: four to six weeks.
Brioni
Founded in 1945 by partners Nazareno Fonticoli, a tailor, and
Gaetano Savini, a buyer and public relations man experienced in
sales, the company was named for a pre-World War 2 resort island
in the Adriatic near Trieste, a playground for the rich and famous.
Today, its made-to-measure garments come from the town of
Penne, in Abruzzi, where all cutting, basting and buttonholes are
still done by hand. Orders are from eight to ten weeks.
Coppley
Coppley is a Canadian manufacturer of high-quality tailored
menswear noted for contemporary styling and exceptional value.
3 Coppley’s speciality is producing made-to-measure garments
extraordinarily swiftly – often in as little as three weeks.
4 5
Kiton
The name comes from the ancient Greek chiton, the basic Athenian
A
garment in classical times. The founder of the firm, Signor Kiton,
was actually a Neapolitan named Ciro Paone. Kiton does bespoke
man walks into a Harry Rosen store to buy would fit them well. What appeals to these men is the tailoring in Naples, and its tailor-made garments bear the hallmarks service. Our in-house tailors can work more magic than
1
(PREVIOUS PAGE) CLIENT AND STYLING OPTIONS – QUESTIONS
a suit. He’s in no hurry today. He has time to browse, vastly wider range of fabrics available – fabrics from the most people think with a ready-to-wear suit. Seams on the
3
SALES ASSOCIATE FIRST of its style, most notably softly rounded shoulders with hardly any OF VENTS, POCKETS AND
DISCUSS FABRIC WEIGHTS AND to consider his options. Arrayed before him is an finest Italian and English makers – and the chance to padding, a close-to-the-body fit and the most luxurious of fabrics. jacket can be opened, adjusted and re-sewn with relative OTHER DETAILS – ARE
COLOURS USING AN ASSORT- extraordinary choice of garments created by the customize details they can’t find in ready-to-wear. Above Kiton can deliver in between eight to ten weeks. ease – to raise the collar, for example, or compensate for DISCUSSED WITH THE CLIENT.
MENT OF FABRIC BOOKS world’s finest menswear designers, many of which all, they appreciate the opportunity to see their own either slumping or high, square shoulders. Tailors at MANY CUSTOMERS FEEL MORE
PRODUCED BY THE FINEST tempt him to linger and look more closely. But our man taste perfectly reflected in the clothes they wear. J.P. Tilford by Samuelsohn Harry Rosen routinely recut trousers for men with small CONFIDENT ABOUT THEIR
ITALIAN AND ENGLISH MILLS. wants something more. He wants a suit that is his and Young clients especially seem to enjoy making the Founded in 1923 by Polish émigré Lesser Samuelson, the family waists or bottoms, correcting the balance of the pants. STYLING DECISIONS WHEN
his alone, with details styled to his own particular taste, appointment, meeting their chosen sales associate, firm continues to provide canvas-basted garments (allowing them But there are limits to what can be done. Ready-to- THEY CAN SEE OR TRY ON A
(PREVIOUS PAGE) TWO a suit made in a fabric and colour that he has chosen selecting cloth. One reason may be a pendulum-swing to move and adapt to a man’s shape) in the bespoke tradition. wear suits are made to fit The Average Man, someone READY-TO-WEAR JACKET.
ASSOCIATES FROM OUR himself and that fits him not just well, but perfectly. back away from casual Fridays – some brokerage houses Made exclusively for Harry Rosen, the J.P. Tilford by Samuelsohn who has, in Harry’s words, “normal abnormalities.”
4
BLOOR STREET STORE What he wants is a suit that is made to measure. now explicitly require “suitable business attire” five collection is our most popular made-to-measure line, renowned for Not every customer has the posture or physique to TO GET THE MOST EXACT
DEMONSTRATE THE PROCESS. The great menswear houses – such names as Brioni, days a week. But Harry himself finds that “either-or” its quality, prized for its clean-cut look and available in a wide meet that description. Then again, it may be that the SHOULDER WIDTH MEASURE-
Armani Collezioni, Samuelsohn, Coppley and view simplistic. He is more inclined to a theory of the selection of fabrics and styles. Made-to-measure orders take six to precise colour or style a man is seeking in a suit is not
2
PHILIPPE LEBIHAN, MADE-TO- MENT, A “POINT TO POINT”
MEASURE CO-ORDINATOR Ermenegildo Zegna, among others – have built their “eclectic male,” a man who dresses casually on some eight weeks for delivery. represented in the store’s ready-to-wear selection. The MEASUREMENT IS TAKEN
(LEFT), SIMULATES THE DRAPE ready-to-wear reputations on impeccable styling and days, more formally on others, as his work dictates. solution is made-to-measure. FROM ONE SHOULDER TO THE
OF A SUPER 100s FABRIC superb standards of quality. Precisely the same standards Meanwhile, there’s no doubt that the tide has turned Sansone OTHER, WITH THE JACKET ON.
OVER THE SHOULDER OF are brought to bear when they create a made-to-measure back toward suits. Young men who haven’t worn Nello Sansone, master tailor, who works out of Harry Rosen’s The Process
ROBERT KENNEDY, MANAGER, jacket or suit. With made-to-measure, however, many of them are discovering the buoyant feeling and Scotia Plaza store, creates a high-quality garment that has won Getting fitted for a first made-to-measure suit takes A NUMBER OF MEASUREMENTS
5
HARRY ROSEN SARTORIA manufacturers can offer a greater choice of fabrics and flattering silhouette a well-tailored garment can give. him a loyal clientele among our customers. Made by Coppley to a little time, but once all a man’s dimensions and ARE TAKEN, STARTING WITH
(RIGHT). THIS PROVIDES OUR styling details, change measurements in the cutting “They rely on their sales associate to understand their Nello’s own stylistic criteria, these garments can be delivered preferences are on file, the process becomes simplicity THE CHEST, FOLLOWED BY
CLIENT WITH A VISUAL AID, and assembly and also adjust for any variances in the physical proportions,” explains Harry, “and to suggest in about three weeks. itself. Depending upon how much time has elapsed THE WAIST AND SEAT.
ALLOWING HIM TO RELATE TO customer’s figure, following the meticulous instructions options that disguise any imperfections and make the and whether there have been any changes in his size, he MEASUREMENT OF THE ARMS,
THE COLOUR AND THE PATTERN. relayed by his sales associate in the store. The result is a most of their physique.” Ermenegildo Zegna need only come into the store to select a fabric for a INCLUSIVE OF THE CHEST,
garment that can be considered a true expression of a A family-run company founded in 1910, Zegna has grown from a subsequent order. Bringing in his most recent purchase HELPS DETERMINE THE SIZE
man’s individuality. And a made-to-measure suit costs Ready-to-Wear versus Made-to-Measure? small textiles firm into a global, vertically integrated corporation will aid in any refinements in his measurements. That’s OF THE CLIENT’S UPPER ARMS.
only 15 to 20 percent more than the same maker’s Harry Rosen’s buyers travel the world, meeting the great dealing in all aspects of luxury clothing. As well as making its own one reason why Harry Rosen urges first-time customers,
ready-to-wear model – a difference that an increasing designers, studying their ready-to-wear collections, cloth, Zegna manufactures suits, shirts and ties under the before they begin the process, to find a sales associate
number of men are willing to absorb. selecting the fabrics, colours and styling that they feel Ermenegildo Zegna label. Delivery takes from four to six weeks. with whom they feel very relaxed and confident. Good
best represent the needs of their customers. Most of the associate-client relationships last a lifetime, to the
Who Buys Made-to-Measure? clothes men buy are ready-to-wear, and it’s true that Made-to-measure services are offered year-round. great advantage of both sides. More immediately, a
Many of Harry Rosen’s made-to-measure clients don’t many made-to-measure customers could find something Not all designer collections are available at all Harry Rosen stores. comfortable rapport helps the customer relax during his
need custom treatment because of their size or shape. ready-made that suited them, with or without the Prior to every season, trunk show dates for all stores can fitting. Harry has found that men tend to stand rigidly
With a few slight alterations, ready-to-wear garments in-house alterations that are part of the Harry Rosen be found at www.harryrosen.com, under What’s New/Trunk Shows. at attention in front of the mirror – a completely
34 ) h a r r y Fall/Winter ’02 ( 35
THE TRUNK SHOW
The term “trunk show” dates from the
era when sales representatives travelled
by train from town to town with a trunk
full of samples. These days, rep and samples may
go separately, but the idea remains. A manufacturer sends
someone – it might be the designer himself – to meet customers
face-to-face and show them selections not currently available in
stores. Clients can also get an advance look at styles and fabrics
that won’t be appearing until the following season. Typically,
special prices apply during trunk shows, and some include discounts
on discontinued fabrics. Long-time customers and new patrons
of made-to-measure look forward especially to J.P.Tilford by
Samuelsohn shows, which Harry likes to conduct himself – a rare
opportunity to see the master in action.
BESPOKE
A bespoke suit or jacket is the ultimate
hand-sewn, tailored garment, cut by an 7
individual for an individual. Four years ago, in a
6 discreet corner of his Toronto Bloor Street store, Harry Rosen fulfilled 8
a long-held desire and reopened a bespoke shop. A small sign identifies
the room as the domain of Sr. Francesco Pecoraro, Master Tailor, a
domain where the walls are lined with oak shelves that hold bolts of
7
cloth in a variety of qualities ranging up to the world’s most luxurious THERE IS AN AESTHETIC DIMENSION
6
THIS MEASUREMENT, TAKEN different posture than they usually adopt. A natural suiting and shirting fabrics. Hidden behind a door at the rear is the The Future THE INSEAM AND OUTSEAM
FROM THE GROUND UP, stance is vital for an accurate fitting. archive, where life-size paper patterns record the precise dimensions TO THE PROCESS, AN ART TO FITTING And once that style is established, a sales associate can MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN.
LETS THE ASSOCIATE KNOW With the sales associate found, the first decision of regular customers, updated and refined with every fitting, allowing easily accommodate and even anticipate a regular THIS PROVIDES US WITH THE
IF ONE SHOULDER IS LOWER usually has to do with the cloth. When Harry himself them to order a new suit without the trouble of an initial fitting. A MAN PROPERLY. customer’s needs, knowing his measurements, his taste, “RISE” MEASUREMENT.
THAN THE OTHER. fits a client, he tells him to forget colour and pattern for Beyond that is the bustling workshop where a cutter and four master how much he likes to spend. If keeping abreast of
now and asks how he plans to wear the suit. This helps tailors turn out one-and-a-half jackets a week per tailor. While fashion is important, the latest refinements can be built THIS GARMENT IS READY FOR
establish what weight of fabric will be most appropriate, assistants handle such time-consuming steps as hand-sewing and his father always walked with their hands behind into a subsequent purchase. If not, buying another suit A FIRST TRY-ON. NOTE THE
what sort of yarn and weave. In the course of the buttonholes, a tailor gives lapels a permanent roll by stitching their backs was that their tailor cut their armholes that can be as simple as choosing a different fabric. It’s BASTING THREADS OVER THE
8
conversation, he’ll learn of his client’s preferences and together the canvas and backing fabric with row after row of way.) Sleeves are checked to make sure the client’s arms entirely a matter of individual preference – the essence JACKET. THESE THREADS HOLD
whether his taste in tailored clothing is more innovative herringbone stitches while slowly curling the fabrics against each are of equal length. Would he like to show a half inch of made-to-measure. THE WHITE FABRIC “CANVAS”
or traditional. Often the customer’s physique will other – building permanent shape into the garment. of cuff at the wrist? Of course, changes will be required as time goes by – IN PLACE, ALLOWING US TO
suggest a manufacturer renowned for particular nuances Many of his clients also Next comes “the drop” – the difference between a few men retain the identical posture and shape from SIMULATE THE FINAL SHAPE
of cut and style; how much the client wishes to spend request bespoke shirts and silk man’s chest measurement and his waist. The ready-to- one decade to the next – but measurements are updated OF THE JACKET. THIS IS AN
is another determining factor. Customers can choose ties, but suits are what keep wear Average Man with a 42 regular chest has a 36-inch each time a customer orders another garment. And the IMPORTANT STAGE IN
from at least seven Harry Rosen made-to-measure Sr. Francesco so busy. First waist, but the client’s waist is a 33. Duly noted. This industry itself is growing increasingly sophisticated. ENSURING THE FABRIC IS
suppliers, from Samuelsohn to Ermenegildo Zegna. comes the initial consultation will be the most flattering jacket he has ever owned. On the far horizon lies a machine – a sort of tailor’s PROPORTIONED CORRECTLY
The next step is to find the “try-on garment,” a and fitting, during which Time for the trousers. The length of the leg will be CAT scan, which Harry Rosen has seen in action. The TO THE CLIENT’S TORSO.
ready-to-wear jacket in a neutral fabric that is closest to measurements are taken, fabric looked after later: far more important to ultimate customer strips to his underwear and steps into a box
SR. FRANCESCO PECORARO
the customer’s size. This is where the sales associate’s chosen and the customer’s comfort is “the rise” – essentially the distance between the size of a phone booth. Scanners record his actual
expertise and experience really come into their own – expectations discussed and a man’s waistline and crotch, if you could run a tape body, translate the data and send it directly to the
judgement that owes as much to the eye as the tape noted down. Usually, two more down through the centre of his body. Again, a pair of computerized cutting table. “Will this be a better, more
measure. The try-on garment serves as a guideline, fittings follow. The whole “try-on” trousers is found and used as a template. accurate product,” Harry asks? Eventually, he thinks, it
accentuating points where corrections are needed. Those process takes at least eight All in all, 16 different measurements are taken. It probably will. “The eye – and even the tape measure –
shoulders are slightly high, creating a roll behind the weeks, with the average price sounds like it must take hours, but the whole process can distort things.” On the other hand, he says, “the
collar and pulling open the vents at the bottom. Easily of a suit falling between $3,000 and $5,000 – but the final prize is can be completed in less than 30 minutes. And now numbers only tell me part of the story. There is an
solved. One shoulder is about three-eighths of an inch worth waiting for. It might be the quality of the fabric that brings there are only the aesthetic decisions left to be made. aesthetic dimension to the process, an art to fitting a
lower than the other. No problem. The client is long- a man to bespoke, or perhaps he enjoys the almost invisible Single-breasted or double-breasted? Two buttons or man properly, that no machine can acquire. I know how
waisted – his seat shows under the jacket. These are all top-stitching over the seams, the perfectly aligned checks or stripes three? Vents or no vents? Should there be cuffs on the to get that ‘I look good’ expression on your face when
small issues that can be righted. where a sleeve meets the body, the stem-holder on the underside of pants? Surgeon’s cuffs with buttons that actually open? you see yourself in the mirror at the final fitting, and
Every detail is assessed and adjustments ordered. the lapel to catch a rosebud’s stem… These are the details that A stem-holder under the lapel to hold a boutonniere that doesn’t come from the tape.”
Should the armholes be deepened or the sleeves pitched delight all those who appreciate the craft and tradition of bespoke. in place? These are the touches that add finesse to
a bit forward or back? (Prince Charles once told a a made-to-measure garment, that help a man find his
meeting of London’s guild of tailors that the reason he own inimitable style.
36 ) h a r r y Fall/Winter ’02 ( 37
