PATTERN PATTERN PIECES A A A A A A by carmeloanthony

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									                            PATTERN 7639                                             Use BURDA carbon paper to transfer the pattern outlines (seam and hem
                                                                                     lines) and all other lines and markings to the wrong side of the fabric pieces
                                                                                     according to package instructions.
                           PATTERN PIECES:
                                                                                     INTERFACING
                   A   B     1 Front 2x                                              Cut interfacing as illustrated and iron on the wrong side of the fabric
                   A   B     2 Center Front 2x                                       pieces. For view B, also iron 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide strips of interfacing on hem
                                                                                     allowance of the front and back pieces. Transfer the pattern piece outlines to
                   A   B     3 Side Front 2x                                         the interfacing pieces.
                   A   B     4 Center Back 2x
                   A   B     5 Side Back 2x                                          LINING
                   A   B     6 Front Sleeve 2x                                       Use pieces 17 to 22 to cut the lining.
                   A   B     7 Back Sleeve 2x                                        = See cutting diagrams on pattern sheet.
                   A         8 Bottom Sleeve 4x                                      Seam and hem allowances must be added to the pattern pieces
                                                                                     5
                                                                                      ⁄8" (1.5 cm) at all seams and edges.
                     B       9 Bottom Sleeve 4x                                      Transfer pattern piece outlines to the lining pieces.
                   AB      10 Front Facing 2x
                   AB      11 Back Facing 1x                                                                            SEWING
                   AB      12 Collarband 2x
                   AB      13 Undercollar 1x                                         When sewing, right sides of fabric should be facing.
                                                                                     Transfer all pattern lines to the right side of the fabric with basting thread.
                   AB      14 Top Collar 1x
                     B     15 Flap 4x
                   AB      16 Pocket Piece 2x                                        AB
                   Lining Pieces:
                   AB      17 Upper Front 2x                                         COAT
                   AB      18 Front 2x                                               Back Panel Seams
                   AB      19 Center Back 2x                                         1 Lay side back pieces right sides together with center back piece.
                   AB      20 Side Back 2x                                           Baste panel seams (seam number 4) and stitch.
                   AB      21 Front Sleeve 2x                                        A: Press allowances onto center back pieces. Topstitch seams 1⁄2"
                   AB      22 Back Sleeve 2x                                         (1.2 cm) wide, catching allowances.
                                                                                     B: Press allowances open.
        THE CUTTING LAYOUTS ARE ON THE PATTERN SHEET
                                                                                     Center Back Seam
                                                                                     Lay back pieces right sides together. Baste center seam and stitch.
                  PREPARING PATTERN PIECES                                           A: Press seam allowances to one side. Topstitch center seam 1⁄2" (1.2 cm)
Choose your size according to the Burda measurement chart on the                     wide.
pattern sheet: dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to your bust            B: Press seam allowances open.
measurement, pants and skirts according to your hip measurement. Adjust
the pattern pieces, if necessary, by adding or subtracting the number of             Front Panel Seams
inches that your measurements differ from the measurements given in the              Lay front pieces right sides together with center front pieces. Stitch
Burda chart.                                                                         panel seams as described and illustrated in step 1 (seam number 1).
                                                                                     A: Press allowances toward center front. Topstitch seams 1⁄2" (1.2 cm)
AB                                                                                   wide.
                                                                                     B: Press allowances open.
Cut out the following pattern pieces in the required size from the pattern           Iron a piece of interfacing on corner of center front at end of pocket opening.
sheet:
for the COAT view A pieces 1 to 8, 10 to 14 and 16 to 22,                            B
for the COAT view B pieces 1 to 7 and 9 to 22.                                       Flaps
                                                                                     2     Lay one interfaced flap piece each right sides together with a
   LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING PATTERN PIECES                                          non-interfaced flap piece and stitch together at side and lower edge. Trim
                                                                                     seam allowances, trim corners diagonally.
Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5 feet, 6 inches (168 cm). If you are      Turn flaps. Baste edges, press. Pin open edges together.
taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit your size at the lines marked
"lengthen or shorten here".                                                          3 Baste flap on center front from marking to side edge (seam number 2).
= Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one model by the same                      AB
amount at the same lines.                                                            Panel Seams / Pocket Openings
How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:                                          A: Iron 15⁄8" (4 cm) wide strips of interfacing on edges of pocket openings. The
Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.                                       interfacing should extend past the corner (see illustration 4a)

To lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as               4 Baste pocket piece right sides together with pocket opening edge on
necessary.                                                                           center front, for B over the flap (seam number 2). Stitch, ending stitching at
                                                                                     marking.
To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary.         Clip center front in corner close to last stitch (arrow 4a). Do not cut into flap or
Even out the side edges. Remark the buttonholes.                                     pocket piece.
                                                                                     Illustration shows view A.
                              CUTTING OUT
                                                                                     5    Baste pocket piece to inside, press. Topstitch pocket opening edge for
FOLD (– – – –) means: here is the center of a pattern piece but in no case a         view A 1⁄2" (1.2 cm) wide.
cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut double, with the fold line forming       Lay flap up for view B, topstitch pocket opening edge close to flap joining
the center line.                                                                     seam (5a).
                                                                                     Lay flap down again.
Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the cutting diagrams are
to be placed face down on the fabric.                                                AB
The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern
pieces should be placed on the fabric.
                                                                                     6    Baste center front right sides together with side front from upper
                                                                                     edges to clipping (seam number 3) and go on to baste pocket pieces
                                                                                     together. Stitch.
AB                                                                                   Baste pocket pieces at side edge (6a).
For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the right             Topstitch center front 1⁄2" (1.2 cm) wide at panel seam for view A.
side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are facing and the
pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side. The pattern pieces that are
shown in the cutting diagram extending over the fold of the fabric should be         Side Seams
cut last from a single layer of fabric.                                              Lay fronts right sides together with back. Stitch side seams (seam number 5).
                                                                                     Press seam allowances open.
SEAM AND HEM ALLOWANCES must be added to the pattern
pieces:
15⁄8" (4 cm) for hem, 5⁄8" (1.5 cm) at all other seams and edges.


                                                                                                                                                                   1-2
Pattern 7639

AB                                                                                  S Pin lining right sides together with facing, matching shoulder seams. Ease
                                                                                    in front lining piece or make a fold for sizes 14 to 20 (40 to 46) as marked
Sleeves                                                                             (arrow). Stitch lining (seam number 22), beginning and ending about 4" (10 cm)
                                                                                    above hem edge. Clip lining at back neck edge.
7 Lay front sleeve right sides together with back sleeve piece. Baste top           Press seam allowances onto lining. Pin lining inside jacket with wrong
sleeve seams (seam number 8), easing in back sleeve from neck                       sides facing.
edge to . . Stitch.
A: Press allowances onto back sleeves. Topstitch seams 1⁄2" (1.2 cm)                T     Push up lower edge of lining and sew on at the hem. Sew sleeve
wide, catching allowances.                                                          lining on at joining seam of bottom sleeve piece.
B: Press allowances open.                                                           Fold extra length of lining down. Sew lining on at front facings. Sew
                                                                                    facings on at hem.
Fold sleeves lengthwise, stitch underneath sleeve seams (seam number 6).
Press allowances open.                                                              Work BUTTONHOLES in right front. Work top buttonhole also in left front. Sew
                                                                                    BUTTONS to left front at x-markings. Sew inside button for underlap on inside
Bottom Sleeve Pieces                                                                of right front.
Join each bottom sleeve piece to a round (seam number A 9, B 10). Press
allowances open.                                                                    A
A: Work BUTTONHOLES in two opposite bottom sleeve pieces, first
ironing bits of interfacing on the inside for reinforcement.                        Use a safety pin as a bodkin to insert band, 20" (50 cm) long for sizes
                                                                                    6 to 12 (32 - 38) and 22" (55 cm) long for sizes 14 to 20 (40 - 46) through the
8   Lay bottom sleeve pieces right sides together, matching seams. Stitch           buttonhole openings into bottom edges of sleeves.
lower edges together. Trim allowances.                                              Insert remaining 59" to 65" (1.50 to 1.65 m) of band at the hem. Pass ends of
Turn pieces. Baste edges, press. Baste open edges together.                         band through cord stoppers at the hem. Optional: attach fancy end pieces to
Topstitch lower edge for view A a good 5⁄8" (1.7 cm) wide.                          ends of band.
9    Baste bottom sleeve pieces right sides together with sleeves, matching
seams. Stitch. Important: The buttonholes must lie on the outside of the
finished sleeves for view A. Press allowances up.
Topstitch close to joining seam for view A.

Setting in Sleeves
J Pin sleeve into armhole, right sides facing. Match sleeve seams with side
seams. Match markings 7 on front sleeve and front. Baste and stitch sleeves.
Trim allowances and press toward sleeves.
Topstitch seams from upper edges to beginning of underarm curve for view A.

Collar / Lapels
K Stitch back facing to shoulder edges of front facings (seam number 11).
Press seam allowances open.

L Stitch collarband right sides together with undercollar piece (seam
number 12).
Trim allowances, clip curves and press open. Topstitch close to each
side of seam.
Stitch collarband to top collar piece likewise.

M Stitch undercollar to edge of neckline between markings (seam number
13). Stitch top collar to facing likewise (seam number 14). Trim allowances, clip
curves and press open. Illustration shows undercollar.

N Pin top collar to undercollar, pushing up extra fabric of top collar from
outer edge. Baste collar pieces together from joining seam. Do not catch
seam allowances of collar joining seams on fronts and facings. Stitch. Clip se-
am allowance of fronts and facings at marking close to last each stitch (arrow).

O Lay seam allowances up. Pin facings on front edges from marking, pushing
up extra fabric of lapel from outer edge. Baste edges together (seam number
15) and stitch. Trim seam allowances, also on collar, trim corners diagonally,
clip at facing fold line (arrow).

P Turn collar. Turn facings to inside. Baste edges, press. Roll undercollar and
fronts on FOLD LINE. Hold pieces in place with long diagonal stitches by hand.
Pin collar joining seams together and stitch together from the wrong
side with backstitches by hand (16a).

Hem
A: Work BUTTONHOLES in center fronts for hem casing, first
ironing bits of interfacing on the inside for reinforcement.
AB: Unfold facings.
Q Baste hem to inside, press. Stitch hem loosely by hand for view B.
For view A, topstitch lower edge 3⁄4" (2 cm) wide, catching hem (17a).

AB: Turn facings to inside again. Sew lower edges together.
A: Topstitch front edges, collar and lapels 1⁄2" (1.2 cm) wide.

AB: Try on coat. Insert SHOULDER PADS, pin in place and sew on at
allowances of sleeve inset seams and top sleeve seams.

LINING / Ease Pleat

R Lay back pieces right sides together. Stitch center seam. Stitch on lines
marked for ease pleat.
Press pleat to one side.

Stitch upper front to front (seam number 16). Press allowances open.

Stitch seams on lining pieces, matching same seam numbers. Set
sleeves into lining.
= Press allowance at lower edge of lining and of sleeve linings to inside.
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