HERBORIST: &quot;hard&quot; identity
Hundred years ago, Shanghai cosmetics manufacturer produced Kwong Sang Hong,
&quot;Two Girls&quot; brand &quot;pink-and-paste&quot; the
Expo will have the help of fashion rage in Europe and America, was when he was
president Li Yuan-hung as &quot;very state Yan, Qiao art materials &quot;;
2008, Jahwa brand&quot; HERBORIST &quot;to a traditional appearance
appeared on the world&#39;s largest cosmetics retailer Sephora
(Sephora)&#39;s launch, the predecessor of Shanghai Jahwa precisely Kwong
Sang Hong The Shanghai plant.
This is not a national brand rejuvenation of legend, but a demand in everywhere at a
low cost advantage of Chinese enterprises in one of the few &quot;learning
technology in order to barbarians&quot; of the business case, an actuality, but the
implication of the high culture and gene but unfamiliar long day of household
products company, how in just ten years, Western companies in the cosmetics that the
dominant industry, not only among the frontline in the local market, and even reverse
the output high-end cosmetics town in France?
Today, the cosmetics industry has long non-mere &quot;clever art
material&quot; can win, especially in the fashion and culture as core, high-end
consumer psychology highly emotional area of cosmetic industry, control of the
market is a multinational giant - Procter &amp; Gamble, L&#39;Oreal ... ...
most of them have global operations and management of sophisticated high-tech
companies closely than most, with great calm and precise manner with a dream and
illusion volume manufacturing. Main competition in this area is a huge dream of
manufacturing machines and the dream of another great battle between manufacturing
machines, the so-called quality and cheap Chinese-made advantage of a few useless.
As the first to enter the domestic first-line department store cosmetic counters set up
the first chain Sephora stores in France to enter into sales and profits of the top ten
Chinese cosmetic brand, Herborist brand is undoubtedly a successful practice.
However, its significance is far more than that, the market positioning of repeated
attempts, the pursuit of brand expansion speed to observe the quality of the dilemma,
from the mental to the strength in the face of all condescending when competitors and
partners, where they should meet, Where should imitate, when to be assertive and
insist Herborist explore any of these expectations to overcome the cultural inferiority,
to create local high-end brand of Chinese companies are highly instructive value.
The globalization of the door
Whether it should participate in global competition, and whether it should enter the
high-end cosmetics market, the two issues are Jahwa, the two sides of a coin.
China Daily Chemical and cosmetic industries are the first one of the areas open to
multinational corporations, whether willing or not, China&#39;s domestic
cosmetic companies have to passively participate in the competition, Jahwa is no
exception. It&#39;s two divisions, the 1st Division is responsible for a large
supermarket distribution channels based brands, including six of God, MAXAM,
home security, etc.; Second Division is responsible for counter-based cosmetics brand
stores, including HERBORIST, Goff, Qing Fei, and the brand new high-end dual-mei.
Jahwa almost all its brands (except to mask the characteristics of Chinese medicine
can be taken) are directly faced from Procter &amp; Gamble, Unilever,
L&#39;Oreal and Shiseido and other multinational competition.
Most of these cross-date group of the pyramid has a sound portfolio of brands,
covering more than ten dollars to a thousand dollars from nearly all segments of space,
only 300 yuan more than in the high-end cosmetics market, 100% occupied by foreign
brands, even the 100 - 300 yuan in the low end of this range, Cheng Ming Ming,
natural beauty and other domestic brands are losing ground in China, first-line
department stores in the city almost no local brand presence. Even such high-end
monopoly by foreign brands, local brands stick to the pattern of low-end market, it
may not last very long. More familiar to the Chinese market multinationals are
beginning to sink from the brand to the dual channel, domestic brands can no longer
rely on foreign brands in the market niche to survive despise.
In large distribution channels of the Japanese brand, the Jahwa six God is one of the
few brands that can compete with foreign brands with local rivals, whether brand or
product line, the layout of the six God is not inferior to foreign brands. But compared
to other brands rely on the group&#39;s opponents combat fleet, six of God
alone is still a strong brand too weak.
Whether or not to go out to cope with the global competition, and to survive global
competition and build a cover-to-bottom vertical and horizontal market segments
occupied by more than a strong brand portfolio, is Jahwa development strategy. In
1995, in order to improve the structure and layout of the brand, Jahwa decided to
launch a high-end brand - HERBORIST.
HERBORIST alleged promise than most of its positioning: it is the first main concept
of Chinese medicine in the high-end skin care products. Other elements of the concept
of the domestic cosmetics brand in China compared to its operation in full compliance
with international high-end brands in mature way. The high-end foreign brands,
compared with its unique Chinese style and extremely bright, originally a
&quot;negative equity&quot; into a culture of Chinese descent threshold.
Today, this strategy seems logical, but as long as 10 years of practice in the process
can be described as difficult. The early days of the first problem facing Jahwa is
whether Chinese herbal medicine as HERBORIST the foundation for the brand. The
biggest barriers are not technical, research and development and lack of funding, but
the long-standing consumers, distributors and business minds on their own
&quot;Chinese elements&quot; and &quot;China brand
December 1995, Jahwa Herborist established brand group, spent three years on
product positioning, R &amp; D and marketing of a comprehensive study,
eventually forming a clear goal: HERBORIST must be a global brand operations.
Therefore, Herborist to do in ten years all the things for the future survival in the
international market, its overall strategy can be summed up as &quot;the
West&quot; - meaning flagship brand of Chinese elements, operating mode of
the standard in Europe and America brand.
HERBORIST one of the objectives of the subject is The Body Shop, the operation of
the L&#39;Oreal Group, the brand of natural, environmentally unique style has
attracted a small crowd of these psychological needs group. In contrast, Herborist of
the most unique assets than Chinese culture, and skin care which is directly related to
Chinese medicine. However obstacle is that Chinese consumers are not in the
psychological effects of Chinese herbs such as Western plants add so easy to accept,
the investigation shows that most consumers believe that herbal smell, there are
&quot;dirty&quot; feeling, as their skin care products effect is questionable.
Herborist was for ever to create a separate category is also a lack of confidence, so
choose a more secure &quot;herbs&quot; concept and the Body Shop very
But soon, Herborist feel the more we take the initiative to meet the market, but more
difficult to move the market. Cosmetics at the technical level there are two main
branches, one main biochemical technology, currently on the market the most
expensive high-end brands such as Dior, Lancome most belong to this category;
another category is added mainly plant extracts, such as L&#39;Occitane,
Kiehl&#39;s, Body Shop and so on. HERBORIST in biochemical technology
does not lead to add on even if the plant can be the best, is nothing more than
European and American brands of Chinese imitators it.
Repeated verification, Herborist believe as technology improved, the value of Chinese
herbal medicine for skin care will gradually be reflected, while China&#39;s
economic development will also be making the &quot;Chinese
elements&quot; in the minds of citizens and consumers around the world as a
&quot;positive equity . &quot; 2001 Herborist realize the time has come to
introduce skin care products containing ingredients of Rhodiola test the market. After
HERBORIST according to from &quot;an annual grass&quot; (a Chinese
herbal medicine) to the more distinctive Chinese characteristics, &quot;Every
year a party&quot; (a beauty of compound) of ideas for product development.
Beauty is in accordance with the Chinese herbal medicine compound
&quot;Gong Satsukai&quot; theory, will be used in conjunction with
several kinds of herbal medicine, Chinese medicine, this concept highlights the
implication of the yin and yang balance in the philosophy of the West will Herborist
add class brand clearly distinguish plant open to. Market on the effectiveness of
Chinese medicine theory more and more to cast a vote of confidence, Herborist range
of products from more peripheral to the mainstream personal care products,
moisturizing, whitening skin care, skin care products, and then extended to the
technical content of the highest premium is also the highest anti-aging category.
Doing high-end cosmetics brand, good product and technology is a basic, how their
brand image Zhunque to pass through to consumers, provided there is no flaw in the
match with the brand positioning, consumer experience is the most subtle 也 most
Refined life in shaping cultural symbols, the Jahwa is perhaps the most Japanese of
companies in this gene, whether it is packaging, advertising or store design, all reflect
the pursuit of Shanghai culture, exquisite and elegant taste. HERBORIST ads from
the star&#39;s face has not any, which in the domestic cosmetics and clothing
and other fashion related companies is very rare. In the management team seems
Herborist other visual symbols are sufficient to convey a brand image quality, while
the brands who rely on a star, they may bring down the brand image.
However, some links are not willing to put HERBORIST can wish fulfilled. In the
beginning the beginning of Herborist mainly in the form of store promotion in the
Shanghai market, of which there are no alternative between. Department stores and
cosmetics brands have enjoyed a symbiotic relationship based on location, especially
in the status line department stores, in order to attract Europe and the United States
settled in line to improve the image of the brand, or even a rent-to provide space, but
does not match or there is risk of brand positioning brands, department stores will
Although Jahwa has a long reputation, Dan Duiyu Herborist the start-up of the main
concepts of the high-end brand in China, in line with the department stores want to
enter should fight for a good corner location, easy. Top location request is not just a
department store sales threshold, but whether Herborist brands gene, for example, is
not imported brand, price and brand image can store other brands with a par, whether
behind the background of a global group . In desperation, Bai grass channel set
selection start from the self-built shops, on the store&#39;s location, decoration
and all other visual symbols have developed a detailed program. Until a few years
HERBORIST entered Beijing, to find opportunities among the department stores.
Beijing urban area, there are several independent business circle, each circle has a line
consistent with the requirements of its image of department stores, competition is
fierce between. At a time when HERBORIST product line maturing gradually
emerging influence of the brand, store the overall management of the program has
also been carefully polished to the success of the Shanghai market and Jahwa brand
endorsement, and department stores have been negotiations on equal footing possible
Herborist finally allowed to enter the circle.
HERBORIST brand green with white counters open at Estee Lauder, Dior and Clarins
among other foreign brands, marking the end it really among the mainstream brands.
Entered the mainstream channels such as department stores a few years later, enter the
sales volume Herborist outbreak of 2005 sales for the first time billions of dollars,
2006 sales will reach 200 million yuan, doubling again in 2007 to 4.2 billion, of
which, counter channels contribute as much as the total sales of Qi Cheng.
HERBORIST concept from a unique niche brands, rose to become the mainstream in
the Chinese market high-end cosmetics brands.
Recognition of the arts
In the West but easy to say the word, but in a core brand value of the assets of the
company, what is the body, what use, travel doubt and confusion everywhere. Where
should devote themselves to imitate the Western experience, where they should stick
to the Chinese style, when to pragmatic compromise, and when we need to adhere to
an appropriate degree of cultural self-confidence or arrogance?
2001 Herborist have tested the water overseas markets through Hong Kong. Hong
Kong is the world&#39;s most open and most competitive markets in the world
of cosmetics, make-up brands from around the world gathered here, the price much
cheaper than on the mainland. Listed in Hong Kong can be said is HERBORIST of
brand, advertising and marketing to the channel whether the direct test of international
At that time, Herborist letter followed internationally accepted mode of operation of
high-end brands - advertising plus prime. Department store in Causeway Bay and
Mong Kok Herborist in the store, store layout and signage design standards are in line
to the international brand, and even product packaging have also published a
description in English. The consumer view, Herborist Clinique and FANCL and
adjacent stores without distinction, it is difficult to see the brand from the mainland.
However, the final sales were not satisfactory, in addition to advertising and
marketing techniques are still not mature, operating costs are too high, the Jahwa also
summed up a fundamental reason that the lack of sufficient self-confidence, is the
view that Hong Kong and Western brands competition, it should be completely
&quot;westernized&quot;, the final only to lose the brand personality. Such
as &quot;HERBORIST&quot; these three words are in fact very charm of
traditional Chinese culture, but instead use the English expression, the feeling of the
consumer is a brand of Western Ersan Liu.
Since then, the &quot;identity&quot; is a HERBORIST strategy can not be
ignored in a keyword. Refusal to follow international practice in the industry,
naturally can not get tickets for the field of high-end cosmetics; but slavishly imitate,
but also the arrogance of the Europeans are not from the heart of identity. The middle
of this delicate line where?
In 2006, Jahwa sent a team with the world&#39;s largest cosmetics retailer
Sephora to enter the French market issues to discuss. One was the presence of Jahwa
executives frankly, Sephora&#39;s attitude is very arrogant, but that all problems
are the world&#39;s top cosmetics market reflects the professionalism and high
standards: Why a product and another product of the existence of packaging color
color, why the same two products under the brand from the design point of view, if
not cover LOGO is a brand?
Jahwa team returned home without complaint, the total will Herborist according to
global standards of product re-packaging design, until it reaches the Sephora
standards. January 2007, Sephora agreed to the introduction of the hand and foot
HERBORIST and body care products. However, these products are cosmetic industry
vice-business products, premiums low - which means that Sephora will HERBORIST
as a small but insignificant edge distinctive brand.
This time, Jahwa has decisively rejected the Sephora&#39;s
&quot;identity.&quot; Jahwa in the decision to send HERBORIST fashion
brand tested, when the French melting pot, then set the following principles: First,
visit the French market must start from the facial care, facial cosmetics quality
requirements for the highest Only facial recognition on, to achieve the output of the
brand and culture; Another principle is that although many Chinese fashion
companies, to enter the French market is undoubtedly a quality brand of gold-plated
trip, but will not Herborist spend money on a &quot;returnees&quot;
certificates, in overseas markets to be profitable business, it can be said that the
world&#39;s top consumer market will really be recognized.
So Herborist overseas trip on hold again.
Forget the product, manufacturing fashion
Although HERBORIST twists and turns in the overseas journey, but from the setbacks
and challenges the European market has become HERBORIST continuous
improvement, rising to the high-end market power. Herborist well among the
high-end cosmetics in the list, and keep 100% for 3 consecutive years of growth, its
harsh look of Sephora, aware of their own brand of diversity is still not clear enough,
as a fashion brand, in brand image of the cultural charm, to convey the effectiveness
and completeness, there still be room for improvement.
Meanwhile, the Shanghai Jahwa also think a related issue - how to fashion industries.
As a day of old enterprises, Jahwa ever more emphasis on the quality of the product
itself, then gradually build up brand awareness and marketing awareness. In recent
years, in Jahwa with several grips global cosmetics groups, management increasingly
aware of the future market competition will be the ability to lead the fashion, brand
building and operational capabilities of the contest, it must be to the fashion industry
Herborist past the visual packaging market by brand managers to manage staff, brand
managers work to meet consumer demand logic, and logic contrary fashion business
operations, a top fashion designer company is often the soul of the company figures to
lead the fashion or the art of inspiration, rather than cater to the consumer. Herborist
the end of 2007 to organize the structure, setting up the post of designer brands, the
main objective is to HERBORIST integrated management of the visual language.
In 2008, the Olympics brings boom in Chinese culture began to heat makes Sephora
attention &quot;of Chinese Philosophy&quot; in the market role of
Herborist welcome the opportunity to enter the French market, this they use very
different marketing approach in the past - Bai Grass collection is no longer hopes to
educate the European consumer chatter to add products to understand the
effectiveness of Chinese herbal medicine, but will aim to determine the European
cosmetics market in shaping a style of elegance, charm with the oriental charm of
profound symbolic fashion - Bai grass set, all marketing initiatives are centered on
this goal. In the domestic market, more emphasis Herborist Products formula, efficacy,
but in overseas markets, Herborist is no reference compound, &quot;Gong
Satsukai&quot; and other principles of drug use, but European consumers are
familiar with Chinese cultural symbols - - the hand, acupuncture, tai chi and other
In order to understand the culture of European consumers for the Eastern way of
reading, specifically Herborist find a French and Western cultural backgrounds with
professional consulting firm, on &quot;expression system&quot; were
comprehensively reviewed, the final choice of Chinese with Western consumers are
familiar with words such as &quot;Tai Chi&quot;, &quot;Yin
Yang&quot; will Herborist brand and product ideas from the perspective of
re-interpretation of Western culture. In the domestic market, a black and white mask is
HERBORIST one of the best-selling products, it implies the &quot;first clear up
after the&quot; concept of Chinese medicine is not difficult to understand the
Chinese consumer, but in the French market, HERBORIST altogether color image to
black and white map of Chinese culture known as &quot;Tai Chi&quot;
concept, and create a brand association of Eastern mysticism.
Europeans are strong enough to form the cultural impact, HERBORIST special
emphasis on &quot;traditional method&quot; to design a set of eight
massage practices Tai Chi, Tai Chi Education and customers with a mud mask when
using this approach to enhance product efficacy. Used in cosmetics in Europe
compared to chemical and biological technology, medicine immediate effect of the
microscopic effect, but the participation by the consumer, &quot;ancient
method&quot; experience, to create a sense of ritual and the psychological
experience of Oriental calm, which constitute the Brand&#39;s unique content.
Champs Elysees, France&#39;s Sephora&#39;s flagship store, this price of
49 euros in the Tai Chi mud mask it listed less than a month out of stock, including
Chanel, Dior and other major brands, including France, 2300 a skin-care products in
the sales of the top five, while Herborist full range of products, total sales, also
entered the shop, the top ten skin care products. Such good results so that Sephora
will HERBORIST as new business growth point initiative to promote Herborist into
the Netherlands and other European markets.
Transition to the fashion industry in Shanghai Jahwa process, Herborist is most likely
and most suitable to assume the responsibility to explore the way the brand, perhaps
this evaluation - HERBORIST branding success is Jahwa to &quot; global
fashion brand manufacturing machinery &quot;a successful transition process
(Source: 21st Century Business Review)
st Century Business Review)