VIEWS: 259 PAGES: 8 POSTED ON: 8/31/2010
HERBORIST: &quot;hard&quot; identity Hundred years ago, Shanghai cosmetics manufacturer produced Kwong Sang Hong, &quot;Two Girls&quot; brand &quot;pink-and-paste&quot; the Expo will have the help of fashion rage in Europe and America, was when he was president Li Yuan-hung as &quot;very state Yan, Qiao art materials &quot;; 2008, Jahwa brand&quot; HERBORIST &quot;to a traditional appearance appeared on the world&#39;s largest cosmetics retailer Sephora (Sephora)&#39;s launch, the predecessor of Shanghai Jahwa precisely Kwong Sang Hong The Shanghai plant. This is not a national brand rejuvenation of legend, but a demand in everywhere at a low cost advantage of Chinese enterprises in one of the few &quot;learning technology in order to barbarians&quot; of the business case, an actuality, but the implication of the high culture and gene but unfamiliar long day of household products company, how in just ten years, Western companies in the cosmetics that the dominant industry, not only among the frontline in the local market, and even reverse the output high-end cosmetics town in France? Today, the cosmetics industry has long non-mere &quot;clever art material&quot; can win, especially in the fashion and culture as core, high-end consumer psychology highly emotional area of cosmetic industry, control of the market is a multinational giant - Procter &amp; Gamble, L&#39;Oreal ... ... most of them have global operations and management of sophisticated high-tech companies closely than most, with great calm and precise manner with a dream and illusion volume manufacturing. Main competition in this area is a huge dream of manufacturing machines and the dream of another great battle between manufacturing machines, the so-called quality and cheap Chinese-made advantage of a few useless. As the first to enter the domestic first-line department store cosmetic counters set up the first chain Sephora stores in France to enter into sales and profits of the top ten Chinese cosmetic brand, Herborist brand is undoubtedly a successful practice. However, its significance is far more than that, the market positioning of repeated attempts, the pursuit of brand expansion speed to observe the quality of the dilemma, from the mental to the strength in the face of all condescending when competitors and partners, where they should meet, Where should imitate, when to be assertive and insist Herborist explore any of these expectations to overcome the cultural inferiority, to create local high-end brand of Chinese companies are highly instructive value. The globalization of the door Whether it should participate in global competition, and whether it should enter the high-end cosmetics market, the two issues are Jahwa, the two sides of a coin. China Daily Chemical and cosmetic industries are the first one of the areas open to multinational corporations, whether willing or not, China&#39;s domestic cosmetic companies have to passively participate in the competition, Jahwa is no exception. It&#39;s two divisions, the 1st Division is responsible for a large supermarket distribution channels based brands, including six of God, MAXAM, home security, etc.; Second Division is responsible for counter-based cosmetics brand stores, including HERBORIST, Goff, Qing Fei, and the brand new high-end dual-mei. Jahwa almost all its brands (except to mask the characteristics of Chinese medicine can be taken) are directly faced from Procter &amp; Gamble, Unilever, L&#39;Oreal and Shiseido and other multinational competition. Most of these cross-date group of the pyramid has a sound portfolio of brands, covering more than ten dollars to a thousand dollars from nearly all segments of space, only 300 yuan more than in the high-end cosmetics market, 100% occupied by foreign brands, even the 100 - 300 yuan in the low end of this range, Cheng Ming Ming, natural beauty and other domestic brands are losing ground in China, first-line department stores in the city almost no local brand presence. Even such high-end monopoly by foreign brands, local brands stick to the pattern of low-end market, it may not last very long. More familiar to the Chinese market multinationals are beginning to sink from the brand to the dual channel, domestic brands can no longer rely on foreign brands in the market niche to survive despise. In large distribution channels of the Japanese brand, the Jahwa six God is one of the few brands that can compete with foreign brands with local rivals, whether brand or product line, the layout of the six God is not inferior to foreign brands. But compared to other brands rely on the group&#39;s opponents combat fleet, six of God alone is still a strong brand too weak. Whether or not to go out to cope with the global competition, and to survive global competition and build a cover-to-bottom vertical and horizontal market segments occupied by more than a strong brand portfolio, is Jahwa development strategy. In 1995, in order to improve the structure and layout of the brand, Jahwa decided to launch a high-end brand - HERBORIST. ? HERBORIST alleged promise than most of its positioning: it is the first main concept of Chinese medicine in the high-end skin care products. Other elements of the concept of the domestic cosmetics brand in China compared to its operation in full compliance with international high-end brands in mature way. The high-end foreign brands, compared with its unique Chinese style and extremely bright, originally a &quot;negative equity&quot; into a culture of Chinese descent threshold. ? Today, this strategy seems logical, but as long as 10 years of practice in the process can be described as difficult. The early days of the first problem facing Jahwa is whether Chinese herbal medicine as HERBORIST the foundation for the brand. The biggest barriers are not technical, research and development and lack of funding, but the long-standing consumers, distributors and business minds on their own &quot;Chinese elements&quot; and &quot;China brand convincing&quot; non-self-confidence. December 1995, Jahwa Herborist established brand group, spent three years on product positioning, R &amp; D and marketing of a comprehensive study, eventually forming a clear goal: HERBORIST must be a global brand operations. Therefore, Herborist to do in ten years all the things for the future survival in the international market, its overall strategy can be summed up as &quot;the West&quot; - meaning flagship brand of Chinese elements, operating mode of the standard in Europe and America brand. HERBORIST one of the objectives of the subject is The Body Shop, the operation of the L&#39;Oreal Group, the brand of natural, environmentally unique style has attracted a small crowd of these psychological needs group. In contrast, Herborist of the most unique assets than Chinese culture, and skin care which is directly related to Chinese medicine. However obstacle is that Chinese consumers are not in the psychological effects of Chinese herbs such as Western plants add so easy to accept, the investigation shows that most consumers believe that herbal smell, there are &quot;dirty&quot; feeling, as their skin care products effect is questionable. Herborist was for ever to create a separate category is also a lack of confidence, so choose a more secure &quot;herbs&quot; concept and the Body Shop very close. But soon, Herborist feel the more we take the initiative to meet the market, but more difficult to move the market. Cosmetics at the technical level there are two main branches, one main biochemical technology, currently on the market the most expensive high-end brands such as Dior, Lancome most belong to this category; another category is added mainly plant extracts, such as L&#39;Occitane, Kiehl&#39;s, Body Shop and so on. HERBORIST in biochemical technology does not lead to add on even if the plant can be the best, is nothing more than European and American brands of Chinese imitators it. Repeated verification, Herborist believe as technology improved, the value of Chinese herbal medicine for skin care will gradually be reflected, while China&#39;s economic development will also be making the &quot;Chinese elements&quot; in the minds of citizens and consumers around the world as a &quot;positive equity . &quot; 2001 Herborist realize the time has come to introduce skin care products containing ingredients of Rhodiola test the market. After HERBORIST according to from &quot;an annual grass&quot; (a Chinese herbal medicine) to the more distinctive Chinese characteristics, &quot;Every year a party&quot; (a beauty of compound) of ideas for product development. Beauty is in accordance with the Chinese herbal medicine compound &quot;Gong Satsukai&quot; theory, will be used in conjunction with several kinds of herbal medicine, Chinese medicine, this concept highlights the implication of the yin and yang balance in the philosophy of the West will Herborist add class brand clearly distinguish plant open to. Market on the effectiveness of Chinese medicine theory more and more to cast a vote of confidence, Herborist range of products from more peripheral to the mainstream personal care products, moisturizing, whitening skin care, skin care products, and then extended to the technical content of the highest premium is also the highest anti-aging category. Wedge-end channels Doing high-end cosmetics brand, good product and technology is a basic, how their brand image Zhunque to pass through to consumers, provided there is no flaw in the match with the brand positioning, consumer experience is the most subtle 也 most difficult . Refined life in shaping cultural symbols, the Jahwa is perhaps the most Japanese of companies in this gene, whether it is packaging, advertising or store design, all reflect the pursuit of Shanghai culture, exquisite and elegant taste. HERBORIST ads from the star&#39;s face has not any, which in the domestic cosmetics and clothing and other fashion related companies is very rare. In the management team seems Herborist other visual symbols are sufficient to convey a brand image quality, while the brands who rely on a star, they may bring down the brand image. ? However, some links are not willing to put HERBORIST can wish fulfilled. In the beginning the beginning of Herborist mainly in the form of store promotion in the Shanghai market, of which there are no alternative between. Department stores and cosmetics brands have enjoyed a symbiotic relationship based on location, especially in the status line department stores, in order to attract Europe and the United States settled in line to improve the image of the brand, or even a rent-to provide space, but does not match or there is risk of brand positioning brands, department stores will refuse admission. Although Jahwa has a long reputation, Dan Duiyu Herborist the start-up of the main concepts of the high-end brand in China, in line with the department stores want to enter should fight for a good corner location, easy. Top location request is not just a department store sales threshold, but whether Herborist brands gene, for example, is not imported brand, price and brand image can store other brands with a par, whether behind the background of a global group . In desperation, Bai grass channel set selection start from the self-built shops, on the store&#39;s location, decoration and all other visual symbols have developed a detailed program. Until a few years HERBORIST entered Beijing, to find opportunities among the department stores. Beijing urban area, there are several independent business circle, each circle has a line consistent with the requirements of its image of department stores, competition is fierce between. At a time when HERBORIST product line maturing gradually emerging influence of the brand, store the overall management of the program has also been carefully polished to the success of the Shanghai market and Jahwa brand endorsement, and department stores have been negotiations on equal footing possible Herborist finally allowed to enter the circle. HERBORIST brand green with white counters open at Estee Lauder, Dior and Clarins among other foreign brands, marking the end it really among the mainstream brands. Entered the mainstream channels such as department stores a few years later, enter the sales volume Herborist outbreak of 2005 sales for the first time billions of dollars, 2006 sales will reach 200 million yuan, doubling again in 2007 to 4.2 billion, of which, counter channels contribute as much as the total sales of Qi Cheng. HERBORIST concept from a unique niche brands, rose to become the mainstream in the Chinese market high-end cosmetics brands. Recognition of the arts In the West but easy to say the word, but in a core brand value of the assets of the company, what is the body, what use, travel doubt and confusion everywhere. Where should devote themselves to imitate the Western experience, where they should stick to the Chinese style, when to pragmatic compromise, and when we need to adhere to an appropriate degree of cultural self-confidence or arrogance? 2001 Herborist have tested the water overseas markets through Hong Kong. Hong Kong is the world&#39;s most open and most competitive markets in the world of cosmetics, make-up brands from around the world gathered here, the price much cheaper than on the mainland. Listed in Hong Kong can be said is HERBORIST of brand, advertising and marketing to the channel whether the direct test of international standards. At that time, Herborist letter followed internationally accepted mode of operation of high-end brands - advertising plus prime. Department store in Causeway Bay and Mong Kok Herborist in the store, store layout and signage design standards are in line to the international brand, and even product packaging have also published a description in English. The consumer view, Herborist Clinique and FANCL and adjacent stores without distinction, it is difficult to see the brand from the mainland. However, the final sales were not satisfactory, in addition to advertising and marketing techniques are still not mature, operating costs are too high, the Jahwa also summed up a fundamental reason that the lack of sufficient self-confidence, is the view that Hong Kong and Western brands competition, it should be completely &quot;westernized&quot;, the final only to lose the brand personality. Such as &quot;HERBORIST&quot; these three words are in fact very charm of traditional Chinese culture, but instead use the English expression, the feeling of the consumer is a brand of Western Ersan Liu. Since then, the &quot;identity&quot; is a HERBORIST strategy can not be ignored in a keyword. Refusal to follow international practice in the industry, naturally can not get tickets for the field of high-end cosmetics; but slavishly imitate, but also the arrogance of the Europeans are not from the heart of identity. The middle of this delicate line where? In 2006, Jahwa sent a team with the world&#39;s largest cosmetics retailer Sephora to enter the French market issues to discuss. One was the presence of Jahwa executives frankly, Sephora&#39;s attitude is very arrogant, but that all problems are the world&#39;s top cosmetics market reflects the professionalism and high standards: Why a product and another product of the existence of packaging color color, why the same two products under the brand from the design point of view, if not cover LOGO is a brand? ? Jahwa team returned home without complaint, the total will Herborist according to global standards of product re-packaging design, until it reaches the Sephora standards. January 2007, Sephora agreed to the introduction of the hand and foot HERBORIST and body care products. However, these products are cosmetic industry vice-business products, premiums low - which means that Sephora will HERBORIST as a small but insignificant edge distinctive brand. This time, Jahwa has decisively rejected the Sephora&#39;s &quot;identity.&quot; Jahwa in the decision to send HERBORIST fashion brand tested, when the French melting pot, then set the following principles: First, visit the French market must start from the facial care, facial cosmetics quality requirements for the highest Only facial recognition on, to achieve the output of the brand and culture; Another principle is that although many Chinese fashion companies, to enter the French market is undoubtedly a quality brand of gold-plated trip, but will not Herborist spend money on a &quot;returnees&quot; certificates, in overseas markets to be profitable business, it can be said that the world&#39;s top consumer market will really be recognized. So Herborist overseas trip on hold again. Forget the product, manufacturing fashion Although HERBORIST twists and turns in the overseas journey, but from the setbacks and challenges the European market has become HERBORIST continuous improvement, rising to the high-end market power. Herborist well among the high-end cosmetics in the list, and keep 100% for 3 consecutive years of growth, its harsh look of Sephora, aware of their own brand of diversity is still not clear enough, as a fashion brand, in brand image of the cultural charm, to convey the effectiveness and completeness, there still be room for improvement. ? Meanwhile, the Shanghai Jahwa also think a related issue - how to fashion industries. As a day of old enterprises, Jahwa ever more emphasis on the quality of the product itself, then gradually build up brand awareness and marketing awareness. In recent years, in Jahwa with several grips global cosmetics groups, management increasingly aware of the future market competition will be the ability to lead the fashion, brand building and operational capabilities of the contest, it must be to the fashion industry Jahwa transformation. Herborist past the visual packaging market by brand managers to manage staff, brand managers work to meet consumer demand logic, and logic contrary fashion business operations, a top fashion designer company is often the soul of the company figures to lead the fashion or the art of inspiration, rather than cater to the consumer. Herborist the end of 2007 to organize the structure, setting up the post of designer brands, the main objective is to HERBORIST integrated management of the visual language. In 2008, the Olympics brings boom in Chinese culture began to heat makes Sephora attention &quot;of Chinese Philosophy&quot; in the market role of Herborist welcome the opportunity to enter the French market, this they use very different marketing approach in the past - Bai Grass collection is no longer hopes to educate the European consumer chatter to add products to understand the effectiveness of Chinese herbal medicine, but will aim to determine the European cosmetics market in shaping a style of elegance, charm with the oriental charm of profound symbolic fashion - Bai grass set, all marketing initiatives are centered on this goal. In the domestic market, more emphasis Herborist Products formula, efficacy, but in overseas markets, Herborist is no reference compound, &quot;Gong Satsukai&quot; and other principles of drug use, but European consumers are familiar with Chinese cultural symbols - - the hand, acupuncture, tai chi and other communication. In order to understand the culture of European consumers for the Eastern way of reading, specifically Herborist find a French and Western cultural backgrounds with professional consulting firm, on &quot;expression system&quot; were comprehensively reviewed, the final choice of Chinese with Western consumers are familiar with words such as &quot;Tai Chi&quot;, &quot;Yin Yang&quot; will Herborist brand and product ideas from the perspective of re-interpretation of Western culture. In the domestic market, a black and white mask is HERBORIST one of the best-selling products, it implies the &quot;first clear up after the&quot; concept of Chinese medicine is not difficult to understand the Chinese consumer, but in the French market, HERBORIST altogether color image to black and white map of Chinese culture known as &quot;Tai Chi&quot; concept, and create a brand association of Eastern mysticism. ? Europeans are strong enough to form the cultural impact, HERBORIST special emphasis on &quot;traditional method&quot; to design a set of eight massage practices Tai Chi, Tai Chi Education and customers with a mud mask when using this approach to enhance product efficacy. Used in cosmetics in Europe compared to chemical and biological technology, medicine immediate effect of the microscopic effect, but the participation by the consumer, &quot;ancient method&quot; experience, to create a sense of ritual and the psychological experience of Oriental calm, which constitute the Brand&#39;s unique content. Champs Elysees, France&#39;s Sephora&#39;s flagship store, this price of 49 euros in the Tai Chi mud mask it listed less than a month out of stock, including Chanel, Dior and other major brands, including France, 2300 a skin-care products in the sales of the top five, while Herborist full range of products, total sales, also entered the shop, the top ten skin care products. Such good results so that Sephora will HERBORIST as new business growth point initiative to promote Herborist into the Netherlands and other European markets. Transition to the fashion industry in Shanghai Jahwa process, Herborist is most likely and most suitable to assume the responsibility to explore the way the brand, perhaps this evaluation - HERBORIST branding success is Jahwa to &quot; global fashion brand manufacturing machinery &quot;a successful transition process test. (Source: 21st Century Business Review) st Century Business Review)
"HERBORIST： _amp;quot;hard_amp;quot; identity"