Food
The Foodies
Mission: sponge candy By Vicki G. Marshall and Margaret M. Toohey
THE FOODIES RECENTLY CONCLUDED THAT OUR CAPACITY TO FIND, sugar. It is then caramelized and spread in a metal frame
TRY, AND COMPARE THE RICH VARIETIES OF FOOD OFFERINGS IN OUR to cool overnight. After cooling, the confection is cut into
AREA IS LIKELY INEXHAUSTIBLE. From steakhouses to hot dog stands, squares and then each piece is dipped in chocolate.
from chicken wings to Chinese take-out, the options abound. So it was The varieties to be tasted were, in alphabetical order:
with delight that we assembled eight brave, strong, and noble women, Alethea’s (830 Main, Williamsville), Antoinette’s (5981
ready to face a daunting mission. This was a serious, momentous, Transit, Depew), Condrell’s (2805 Delaware, Buffalo),
difficult assignment: Taste nine different makes of sponge candy. There Fowler’s 2467 Niagara Falls Boulevard, Tonawanda),
in front of us were nine plates, each with a numbered card next to it. Oliver’s (211 Main, Batavia), Parkside Candies (3208
Only Margy, the keeper of the candy and Foodie research director, knew Main, Buffalo), Platter’s (954 Oliver, North Tonawanda),
which one was which. Could we rise to the occasion, taste each variety, Watson’s (2908 Delaware, Buffalo), and Yia Yia’s (5067
judge them fairly, and pick the best? You’ve got to be kidding. This was Transit, Depew). Shoppers, please note that some of
one of the Foodies’ best tastings ever. these candy companies have multiple locations.
For those readers of Spree who have never heard of sponge candy, Margy and Vicki managed to pick up all the candy
you’re probably a newcomer to Western New York. According to the on a Saturday afternoon (with the help of sister-in-law
website www.spongecandy.com, the confection is defined as “one of Maureen Toohey, who stopped in at Oliver’s). At each
those things that’s really hard to describe without actually experiencing place we were told they were sure it would be voted
it.” The site explains that the sponge candy center is a simply flavored the best; clearly, sponge candy is a very competitive
piece of caramelized sugar, almost molasses-like taste with a very business, similar to chicken wings. Margy preserved
unusual, crisp then melt-away texture. The piece de resistance is that the candy in a dry location away from pets, husband, and
the center is covered with as much milk or dark chocolate as it will herself, a feat to be commended. The samples were all made
carry. The folks at Ko-Ed Candies in South Buffalo have it right when with milk chocolate and filled with the traditional “sponge” inside.
For Vicki, who rarely eats sweets of any kind, this was not the
easiest task; even Linda Radford mentioned that she would have
preferred to be part of our legendary potato chip panel, citing that
old sweet-versus-salt thing. However, once underway, the smells
were so enticing and the candy looked so good that we all dug in
and enjoyed the treats in front of us. As the conversation and tasting
evolved we were all drawn back to one candy in particular. In order
to rate our choices, we found ourselves retasting certain ones,
although by that time no one could look at a whole piece. We were
cutting them into little bites—sugar shock having set in, as you can
imagine. The voting began, and with all of us talking at once about
entry Number Two, it was no surprise when Margy tallied the votes.
The winner? In first place, Watson’s, followed by Fowler’s, and
Condrell’s. The rest were pretty much equal in votes.
Watson’s was described as “good creamy chocolate with a soft melting sponge.” The Watson’s sponge was
mentioned most often as the best. The chocolates varied considerably in flavor and thickness, and the ratio of
chocolate to sponge was another factor we took into consideration.
they say that when “you bite into a piece of our sponge candy, you Watson’s was described as “good creamy chocolate with a
experience not only the chocolate’s opposing properties of solid firmness soft melting sponge.” The Watson’s sponge was mentioned most
giving away to melty smoothness, but you get the center’s crispness often as the best. The chocolates varied considerably in flavor
immediately dissolving with a very complimentary mixing of chocolate and thickness, and the ratio of chocolate to sponge was another
and caramelized flavors.” factor we took into consideration. To be honest, if we were
Of course, sponge candy is found in places other than Buffalo. Ko-Ed each given a box of any one of these delicious treats we would
Candies maintains the spongecandy.com site, where they inform visitors be very happy and enjoy every morsel. However, when you
that you can routinely find sponge candy nearly everywhere (even in taste nine varieties side by side, the differences can be quite
supermarket bulk bins) as far away as Rochester or Erie, Pennsylvania, surprising. Some of the chocolate was better than others while
but that it pretty much disappears beyond there. In Syracuse or Albany, their sponge wasn’t quite as good as the chocolate. The ideal
for example, they don’t have a clue. Sources have confirmed that in sponge candy needs to have the proper proportion of candy to
Pittsburgh and Cleveland they also have no idea what sponge candy sponge, so that when you bite into it the tastes melt together
is. Oh, a variation can be found here and there around the country, into a crunchy yet smooth experience. Watson’s seemed to
and names like Sponge Taffy, Cinderblock, Sea Foam, Molasses Puffs, meet everyone’s expectations.
Honeycomb, or Fairy Food apply to similar concoctions. Descriptive as If you want to share a bit of WNY with friends and family
such names may be, they fail to measure up to the product produced elsewhere, you would be wise to send a gift of sponge candy
within the 75-mile radius of Buffalo. Another claim to fame for our fair from any one of these fine chocolate companies. (They ship
city! Unfortunately, since Ko-Ed Candy produces their candy on a fixed everywhere.) Sponge candy is unique, delicious, and very
yearly schedule (guaranteed freshness), we were not able to have any special.
Ko-Ed candy for sampling by our original panel, but you can be sure P.S. After production resumed for the sponge candy season,
Margy and Vicki made a point to taste some before we finished our story. Margy was able to get a taste of Ko-Ed’s and found it to be
The day of reckoning came and the tasters were assembled. “Foodies lovely. You can taste for yourself at 285 Abbott Road, Buffalo.
8”—our nod to Ocean’s 11—included Margy, Vicki, Keenan Toohey We also contacted Park Edge Sweets, right down the road
(Margy’s daughter), Mamie Leyland, Shirley Stringaro, and Lana Baich at 325 Abbott. They are only open from October through
(Margy’s co-workers at the Lewiston Insurance Agency), Diane Finkbinder Mother’s Day because, as they told us, “If we can’t make
(owner of the Barton Hill Hotel in Lewiston), and Lewiston resident and sponge candy, then there’s no point to being open.” The
trend-setter Linda Radford, who was brave enough to participate after a Foodies will definitely make a visit before next Mother’s Day.
dental visit. (Oh, the sacrifices we make.) According to a brochure from oher’s Day.
Watson’s, sponge candy is made by mixing baking soda heated with
Vicki G. Marshall) is a graphic designer. Margaret M. Toohey is CEO and owner of the Lewiston Insurance Agency. Visit the Foodies online
at www.foodiestalk.blogspot.com.
AS SEEN IN BUFFALO SPREE MAGAZINE December 2008 www.buffalospree.com 143