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To Lhasa

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					To Lhasa
Written on / 2001.9.2
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Never thought that so soon have the opportunity to come to Lhasa, never thought in
their favorite season - early autumn to board this magical plateau, had cherished
glimpse of the beauty of Tibet, many times.

The whereabouts of the aircraft in a river slowly, crawl, stop. This is Tibet, which is
Gonggar Airport, which is the Brahmaputra! When everything is clear in front of us,
in addition to the 30% oxygen lack caused shortness of breath, the really like Ge Shi
Huang had the feeling! Airport not, Tibetan and Han Chinese
"Lhasa" is not the word a little conspicuous, the staff of the face
was all red, and out of port access so simple as a small town on the mainland railway
station.

From the airport to Lhasa is 93 km asphalt road, along the Brahmaputra and the Lhasa
River upstream. Along the way, comes into view is not the desert wasteland, not a
barren stone, but the lush fields and tall stands of poplar! This is what I did not expect,
that in September the aspen stand tall along the road, half yellow half green leaves as
if I return to the home of the Northeast. This is Tibet's it? The Hill, the
water, that tree, that cropland, everything is so familiar with everything around us
seems to accompany it a long long time. The only difference is that sometimes appear
along highways or ride a bike or walking tractor or on foot to open the Tibetan ethnic
dress, red face and very ethnic characteristics of the clothing I had First Reading of
Tibet. They, in the space of their own lives to live a unique life. This life, perhaps
more than our so-called "modern civilization" behind a number
of years, but they are happy, at least more than trendy, "Petty",
"middle class" is much more fun.

The first impression of Lhasa, in addition to "emancipated serfs to
sing" and the childhood read poetry "small strong
Pakistan", the secondary school geography textbooks is the
"Solar City" to say. Undoubtedly, the sunlight in Lhasa is the
most abundant and most strongly, that enough to change people's faces
light up the city grid eventually set the color of the entire plateau. There is no
shielding to direct sunlight on the body, just slightly cloudy due to the cold also felt
suddenly become a summer Zaore, you have to rush off his jacket put on T-shirt,
suddenly seemed to understand why the Tibetans semi-clothes around her large, the
heat of the exposed half of the shoulder, the cold of the whole body can be tightly
wrapped in one.

Tibet is red, from everywhere in the temple to the Buddhist monks robe, from the
people's face was to the hot sun. The Lhasa is not always old, even ancient
need to charge it a little more effort to find the distant past, which I anticipated. From
the airport road, Rula Sa, first see an article clean wide streets, rows of brand new
modern high-rise buildings, as well as a family vehicle repair, hotels, restaurants and
all kinds of people around the opening of small shops. This is Lhasa it? We said to just
stay in a renovated three-star hotel completed, the hotel's facilities and
services with the mainland is exactly the same, of course, the price nearly doubled to
more than. Next to the hotel is two bulls, bulls appear to be dashed struggle where,
and in the copper where the crossroads of the four directions cattle, almost all Han
Chinese in this set up around the refreshment, Shaanxi mutton steamed, Sichuan Dayi
Bear mind duck, Xinjiang barbecue, Shenyang small potatoes ...... see and hear
everywhere, the situation of the national unity, but only that rarely see the shadow of
authentic Tibetan. Looked at planning a new city, watching the flashing neon lights of
modernization, I can not help but have a kind of confusion: Tibet, Lhasa, it really
must be in the so-called "modernization" in the loss of the real
itself?

Look past Tibet, Lhasa, we can only start the city's several famous
buildings. Less than the Great Wall of non-hero, then no less than the Potala Palace in
Tibet should be similar to it. This is a proximity to the mountains of building, It is said
that Princess Wen Cheng Songtsan for the repair, so come say this is the history of
Sino-Tibetan unity and witness it. Potala Palace and the White House dividends,
which is named from the color, but it's unique charm lies in, the Red Palace
is the ancient body of law Dalai storage areas, around the White House is now a place
Lama daily living . The living and the dead were a house of residence, and the time
has elapsed in 1300! This is a kind of good fortune and piety, it is strange how deep
highland culture! Potala Palace square in front of large, square, five-star red flag
fluttering, and the camera at a stall in the enthusiasm to solicit business, a group of
pigeons in a leisurely stroll, a few carrying a shoe box of Tibetan children to recover
the Visitors to polish shoes, fountain sitting in the sun ceremony ,"***
Tibet "banner in the square in front of swaying.


Potala Palace attracted ancient people around the world come to visit worship, and it
along with the tide of market economy the pace of development of tourism resources
is also really amazing. Tickets rose to 70 yuan from 45 yuan / person has not, precious
relics during the visit showroom and the Golden Roof actually have to pay 10 yuan /
person. Look at those chanting monks, faced a sentence, Miss Guided,
"Price Bureau to notice you can set" of disdain, I do not know
how this will admire the palace with its all-pervasive concept of money together.
Artifacts have to eat, the Potala Palace have modern, perhaps it was the most
reasonable interpretation of it.

Walk a few hundred meters away from the Potala Palace, after a busy commercial
street, in the Tibet Autonomous Region government where the other side of the road is
a well-known of the Jokhang Temple. From afar, it does not look like a temple, in the
crowded Bajiaojie under siege, where more like a free market, and management of the
Jokhang Temple on the market. Come near to, only to find different here. Believers in
and out in twos and threes, some in front of the line kowtow ceremony, some
religiously turning France ... round the mouth mutter prayers, Tibetans here are free,
but visitors can get a hold 35 per enchant Zhang tour tickets. Into the dark of the
hospital, even a sudden can not find a direction, in addition to the lamas, believers in
happily employed or sitting or lying, they had to follow a group of Tibetan followers
ahead, they just turn around monasteries in the French .. . round. Rolling of the law ...
under the eaves rotating wheel, a hand on it then touching, which implies how many
people the pursuit of faith, it witnessed the tremendous number of things. Around the
Jokhang Temple is famous Bajiaojie, an array of ethnic specialties and those along the
street line Changgui people kowtow ceremony leather wrapped around the knee, arms
wrapped in a layer of friction due to frequent ground and shiny metal, they are In
worship it? Apart from marveling found a stretch to me to a hand. That clearly is
begging ah, or are alms? This is really a unique landscape, and perhaps they are really
sincere, faith to the hearts of people to do good, there are those on the street side of
wearing a robe of monks chanting the way they use the money obtained by incense.
"Know why so many Tibetan lamas do?" Colleague's
asked me rather abruptly. "Perhaps it is a faith tradition."
"There is for this reason, but you see how easy they make
money." I would rather ridicule of my colleagues as a joke, because this
plateau and the nation, I have always been with admiration and expectations.

Modern and ancient, and thus off by each other in our country, in our world. Beijing is
not also removed and do not quarrel with the middle removed it? Lhasa, the same.
Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple along the old, and I actually went to the Old Town
unconsciously. Master said, according to tricycles, old roads repaired just last year, so
a new side of the road is a bit old but full of Tibetan ethnic characteristics pavilion.
Walks into an alley, see the per capita is a Tibetan robe clothes, hear the words are a
do not know the Tibetan, a Tibetan women accompanied their children play in their
own front door, a small market sale of goods in addition to butter, Tibetan medicine,
the outrageous Diaopai soap, Wahaha mineral water, sell tapes VCD speaker tune
"the past and the pacemaker lead us into a new era." Poster in a
hotel bar, plastered with notices seeking travel enthusiasts to Ali, to Nyingchi, and to
no man's land expedition, and groups of twinning of foreigners talking in
any fight. This is Lhasa, the modern civilization, despite stubborn resistance eroded
Lhasa. Development of tourism resources compared to those attractions alone, I prefer
the traditional Tibetan life and simple without losing flavor, the world and full of
culture.

Lhasa is a city of movement, to Tibet's cadres in large and small to the
tricycle, high to the new building, low to snack throughout the countless visitors to
this tour, so a guest in many of the strangers here, 300 000 evidence of Chinese and
Tibetan resident population is evenly divided. Warm Tibetan people, maybe you do
not know, but they refused hospitality make you embarrassed. To leave Lhasa, when
the airport before boarding a hungry bear, suddenly smelt a delicious flavor. Two
Tibetan side of the old mother took the thermos bottle down in the buttered tea.
"How much is a bowl?" For the elderly did not say the price is
only he kept saying "Drink Drink, drink lot, actually." So that
they do not want money, is to send his son to the university specifically brought to the
mainland airport for his son to drink of. With gratitude to Aunt again just a few sips of
tea, Tim, following the mainland used to me greeting of "not
the" Tibetan old mother said, "have to add, this is our
custom." What a passion for the elderly, what a nice and warm hospitality
habits!
"Back in Lhasa, return to the Potala Palace." Accidental rough
voice echoed over the plateau, white clouds blue sky warm sun on their heads and
circled quietly beside the Lhasa River in the city Department of the Brahmaputra.
This is a plateau on the city, which is a group of diligent and intelligent kind warm
people, this is the Lhasa!

(Xiao De 2001.9.2 10:00 left in Tibet, written in Chengdu, 20:40 pm)

				
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