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					ALIMENTA



 Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok
 ALIMENTA No. 18
ALIMENTA
    th
                                                                    ALIMENTA
The 18 issue                                                        XVIII numero
Welcome to “Emilia Romagna”                                         Benvenuti in “Emilia Romagna”

     I   t’s a great pleasure for me, who recently arrived
         in Bangkok, to present my first issue of Alimenta
and continue the work begun by my precursors. The
                                                                         E’     per me, da poco arrivato a Bangkok, un
                                                                                grande piacere presentare il mio primo
                                                                    numero di Alimenta e continuare così il lavoro intra-
theme of this issue is ‘Emilia Romagna’, its history, its tra-      preso dai miei predecessori. Il tema di questo nume-
ditions and especially its cuisine and its typical products.        ro è l’ Emilia Romagna, la sua storia, le sue tradizioni
Emilia Romagna, like Tuscany and Umbria, has its roots              e sopratutto la sua cucina ed il suoi prodotti tipici.
in the Etruscan civilization, one of the deepest cultures            L’ Emilia Romagna, come la Toscana e l’ Umbria, ha le sue
of the Mediterranean basin. The Etruscans and the other             radici nella civiltà etrusca, una delle più profonde culture
various civilizations that have succeeded in Emilia Ro-             del bacino del mediterraneo. Gli Etruschi e le diverse al-
magna, Romans, Byzantines, Lombards, have left deep                 tre civiltà che si sono succedute in Emilia Romagna, Ro-
traces in the territory that make this re-                                              mani, Bizantini. Longobardi, hanno
gion extremely interesting from a histori-                                              lasciato profonde tracce sul territorio
cal, cultural and architectural point of view.                                          che rendono questa Regione estrema-
Emilia Romagna is also one of the most                                                  mente interessante da un punto di
important Italian regions considering                                                   vista storico, culturale e architettonico.
its cultural and economic aspects. The                                                  L’ Emilia Romagna è anche una delle
University of Bologna is the oldest uni-                                                regioni italiane più importanti dal
versity in the Western world, its origins                                               punto di vista culturale ed economico.
date back to 1088, and it is today’s one                                                L’ Università di Bologna è la più an-
of the most important universities on                                                   tica del mondo occidentale, le sue
European level, with excellence in the                                                  origini risalgono al 1088, e tutt’ oggi
juristic, medical and artistic disciplines.                                             una delle più importanti a livello eu-
The economy of Emilia Romagna is among                                                  ropeo, con eccellenze nelle discipline
the most advanced economy of Europe,                                                    giuridiche, mediche ed artistiche.
quality and lifestyle in Emilia Romagna are                                             L’ economia emiliano-romagnola è tra
at the top rankings of Italian cities. It is a very developed re-   le più avanzate d’ Europa, la qualità e lo stile di vita nelle
gion on industrial level and the main agricultural region of        città emiliano-romagnole sono ai vertici delle classifiche
Italy.The agriculture in this region is equipped with modern        delle città italiane. E’ una regione molto sviluppata a liv-
technology but at the same time linked to the traditions,           ello industriale e la principale regione agricola italiana.
and gives us ranges of typical products of absolute value.          L’ agricoltura è moderna, tecnologica, ma nel-
How could it be without the gastronomic tradition of Ital-          lo stesso tempo legata alle tradizioni, e ci regala
ian products such as Parma Ham or Parmigiano Reggiano               una gamma di prodotti tipici di assoluto pregio.
(Parmesan cheese), that are famous worldwide for their              Come potrebbe fare a meno la tradizione gastronomica
uniqueness? Not to mention the Culatello, Mortadella,               italiana di prodotti come il Prosciutto di Parma o il Par-
Balsamic vinegar and many other specialties, which                  migiano reggiano, famosi nel mondo per la loro unicità?
are the fruitful results of ancient tradition and culture.          Per non parlare del Culatello, della Mortadella, dell’ Aceto

          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                            ALIMENTA 2
A wide range of local products is fundamental of the             balsamico         e      di     tante      altre      special-
cuisine of Emilia Romagna, very simple cuisine, char-            ità, frutto di tradizione e cultura antiche.
acterized by the quality of raw materials, and for               L’ ampia gamma di prodotti tipici è la base fondamentale
this unique, inimitable, absolutely worth knowing.               della cucina emiliano romagnola, una cucina molto sem-
First main dishes, especially egg pasta, the famous              plice, caratterizzata dalla qualità delle materie prime, e per
Tagliatelle and Strozzapreti, and stuffed pasta, Cappel-         questo unica, inimitabile, assolutamente da conoscere.
letti and Tortelli, are to be seasoned with Ragù alla Bo-        Piatti forti i primi, sopratutto le paste all’ uovo, famosis-
lognese (Meat Sauce). Many other specialties, among              sime le Tagliatelle e gli Strozzapreti, e le paste ripiene,
which, I remind you, the Piadina Romagnola, recipe of            Cappelletti e Tortelli, da condire col Ragù alla bolognese.
ancient origin and even today one of the most suc-               Numerose le altre specialità, tra cui Vi ricordo la Piadina
cessful “snacks” in Romagna. It is a kind of bread not           romagnola, ricetta di antichissima origine ed anche oggi
leavened, padding with ham or cheese or with ingredi-            uno degli “spuntini” di maggior successo in Romagna.
ents that can be created by our imagination and taste.           Si tratta di una sorta di pane non lievitato, da imbottire
And finally I want to recommend the Wines. Among                 con prosciutto o formaggio o con gli ingredianti che la
the white ones, Trebbiano di Romagna, fresh and light            fantasia ed il gusto di ognuno di noi possono suggerire.
wine, and Albana di Romagna, sweet and aromatic                  E da ultimo voglio ricordare i Vini. Tra i bianchi il Treb-
wine which I suggest you to accompany with the Ciam-             biano di Romagna, vino fresco e leggero, e l’ Albana
bella Bolognese (Almond Cake). Among the reds, how               di Romagna, vino dolce ed aromatico che Vi sug-
can we forget the Lambrusco and Sangiovese, which                gerisco di accompagnare alla Ciambella bolognese.
are very famous wines but certainly to be enhanced               Tra i rossi, come non ricordare i Lambruschi ed il San-
and to be known better for their qualitative aspect.             giovese, Vini molto famosi ma sicuramente da valoriz-
I conclude by recalling that our program of artistic-cultur-     zare e meglio conoscere nel loro aspetto qualitativo.
al events, carried out between May and June to celebrate         Concludo ricordando che è quasi giunto al termine l’ Ital-
the Feast of the Republic of Italy on June 2, 2008 ‘Italian      ian Festival 2008, programma di eventi artistico-culturali,
Festival 2008’ is reaching its ending. I take this opportu-      realizzati tra maggio e giugno per celebrare la Festa delle
nity to thank everyone who contributes these accomplish-         Repubblica d’ Italia del 2 giugno. Colgo l’ occasione per
ments and all those who participated in the initiatives. I       ringraziare tutti coloro che hanno contribuito a realiz-
hope that it has been, as well as Alimenta, a useful oppor-      zarlo e tutti coloro che hanno partecipato alle iniziative.
tunity to better know Italy and to appreciate our country.       Spero sia stata, come lo è Alimenta, una occasione utile
                                                                 per meglio conoscere ed apprezzare in nostro Paese.


Vincenzo Calì                                                    Vincenzo Calì
Trade Commissioner                                               Trade Commissioner



                                               Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok
           14/B Floor, Bubhajit Building, 20 North Sathorn Rd., Silom, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500, Thailand
                              Tel : (662) 633 8491-3, 633 8355-9 Fax : (662) 633 8494
  E-mail : bangkok.bangkok@ice.it, icebkkth@loxinfo.co.th Website : www.italtrade.com/muangthai, www.ice.it/estero2/bangkok


          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                         ALIMENTA 3
Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok
                                                               FEATURE

History of Emilia-Romagna
      T    he name Emilia-Romagna has roots in the Ancient Rome
           legacy in these lands. Emilia refers to via Æmilia, an impor-
tant Roman way connecting Rome to the northern part of Italy. Ro-
magna is a corruption of Romània; when Ravenna was the capital of
the Italian portion of the Byzantine Empire, the Lombards extended
the official name of the Empire to the lands around Ravenna. Emilia-
Romagna was part of the Etruscan world by the 6th century BC. How-
ever, two centuries later the Gauls forced the Etruscans out of Emilia
Romagna. In following the Romans arrived in the 2nd century BC and
built the Aemilian Way, a Roman road (laid out 187 B.C.) that crossed
the region from Piacenza to Rimini for which the region was named.
After the fall of Rome, the region was conquered (5th century A.D.)
by the Lombards. Bologna and most of present-day Romagna fell un-
der Byzantine rule in the 6th century and from then to the 19th cen-
tury had histories separate from Emilia. Divided into several duchies
and counties, Emilia was conquered by the Franks in the 8th century.




          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok     ALIMENTA 5
FEATURE

However, its subsequent history is that of its indi-   the wife of deposed Napoleon I. Emilia played an im-
vidual cities, many of which became free communes      portant role in the Risorgimento, and there were revolts
in the 12th century. In the 16th century, most of      against foreign rule in 1821, 1831, and 1848–49. In 1860
these were included into the Papal States, but the     all of Emilia-Romagna was joined to the kingdom of Sar-
territory of Parma and Piacenza and Modena re-         dinia. In the 20th century Emilia (especially Bologna) has
mained independent until Emilia- Romagna was           been a center of socialism and Communism. The region
included into the Italian kingdom in 1859-1861.        suffered severe flooding in 1966. There are universities
 By the 17th century the duchy of Parma and Pia-       at Bologna, Ferrara, Modena, and Parma. And The Uni-
cenza, under the Farnese family, and the duchy of      versity of Bologna (Italian: Alma Mater Studiorum Uni-
Modena, under the house of Este, together held vir-    versità di Bologna, UNIBO) is one of the oldest continu-
tually all of Emilia. Emilia was held by the French    ally operating degree-granting universities in the world,
from 1797 to 1814, when Modena passed to Austria       and the second largest university in Italy. It was prob-
and Parma and Piacenza came under Marie Louise,        ably the first university founded in the western world.




          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                             ALIMENTA 6
                                                  FEATURE




Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok   ALIMENTA 7
CUCINA


The Art of Cuisine of Emilia-Romagna

      I n Emilia-Romagna the honor roll of foods is
        led by pasta, made with fresh eggs and rolled
by hand by a sfoglina to achieve perfect texture. The
                                                          name in Romagna, whose specialties include the
                                                          rolled tubes called garganelli and slim dumplings
                                                          called passatelli. Pasticcio is pasta with other ingre-
universal primo is tagliatelle con ragù, though cooks     dients baked in a pie, though interpretations vary.
consider the meat sauce personal works of art. Bolo-
gna, whose specialties include green lasagne and
curly gramigna, disputes with Modena the creation
of tortellini (modeled after Venus’s navel). Parma’s
prides are large square envelopes called tortelli and
the rounded anolini, which are also made in Piacen-
za, home of the bean-shaped pisarei. Ferrara’s cap-
pellacci (big hats) are stuffed with squash. Reggio’s
cappelletti (little hats) differ from pasta of the same




                                                            Polenta, once a staple of the country diet, now plays
                                                          a secondary role to pasta in the region, as do rice and
                                                          gnocchi. Vegetables, greens and legumes of all sorts
                                                          are grown here, though they are often cooked in soups
                                                          or with pasta. Romagna has a native species of shallot
                                                          protected as IGP Scalogno di Romagna. Mushrooms
                                                          from the Apennines are prized, notably from around
                                                          Borgotaro, where they enjoy IGP status. Romagna
                                                          produces a bit of olive oil, protected under DOP for
                                                          the town of Brisighella. Baked nearly everywhere are
                                                          hard wheat rolls of snow white interior and tawny
                                                          crust called coppiette, due to their shape resembling
                                                          a “coupled” set of horns. Local versions of flatbreads
                                                          abound. Most renowned is Romagna’s circular piadina
                                                          or piada, baked on tiles (or griddles) and folded over


          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                               ALIMENTA 8
                                                                                                              CUCINA
prosciutto, cheese or greens. Thicker focaccia is           Prosciutto di Parma, Italy’s best known meat product,
called spianata or torta salata, though with salt           is protected by DOP, as is the rare but even more prized
pork in the dough it becomes crescentina at Bolo-           Culatello di Zibello, a filet of rump aged in the foggy
gna. In Emilia’s hills, paper thin borlengo or burleng      lowlands along the Po. Bologna is noted for giant loaves
is cooked like a crêpe, dressed with salt pork, gar-        called Mortadella, though the IGP extends through the
lic and rosemary,. folded into quarters and served          region and beyond.Modena pig’s foot sausage zampone
with grated Parmigiano. Similar flavorings are used         is eaten nationwide at the New Year with lentils for luck.
on the muffin-like tigelle, baked between tile disks.




Crisp fritters are made through Emilia, originally fried
in lard but now more often in oil, sometimes flavored
with pork crackling, prosciutto or sausage, though
types vary. Examples are burtleina at Piacenza, torta
fritta at Parma, gnocco fritto at Modena, chizza at
Reggio. Bologna’s renowned fritto misto combines
pastry fritters with fried meats and vegetables. The
filling of fried cassoni includes spinach and raisins.
In Emilia, the curing of pork is an age-old master craft.


         Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                   ALIMENTA 9
CUCINA




DOP protects Zampone di Modena and Prosciutto
di Modena, while IGP applies to Cotechino di Mode-
na, a sausage whose stuffing includes bits of rind. .         Other meats appreciated throughout the region
Piacenza is a center of salume production, with DOP ap-       are veal, turkey, capon, chicken and rabbit. Romag-
plied to Coppa Piacentina, the neck roll, elsewhere called    nans have a taste for duck and grilled and roast
capocollo, as well as Salame Piacentino and the un-           pork, lamb and mutton. Cesenatico is the seafood
smoked bacon known as Pancetta Piacentina. Ferrara’s          haven of Romagna, whose brodetto is among the
salama da sugo blends choice bits of pork in a juicy stuff-   tastiest of the Adriatic’s fish soups. Eels from the Co-
ing with red wine, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. Emil-         macchio lagoon may be stewed, roasted or grilled.
ians all make lean and mildly seasoned salame gentile.        Emilia’s Parmigiano Reggiano, the “king of cheeses,” is
The Romagnola breed of cattle is covered by the               firm yet brittle enough to break into bite-sized chunks
IGP of Vitellone Bianco dell’Appennino Centrale.              of elegantly mellow flavor. Aging makes Parmigiano
                                                              golden and hard for grating. Romagna’s formaggio
                                                              di fossa from the milk of sheep or cows is ripened in
                                                              caves for three months. Ravaggiolo and squaqua-
                                                              rone are tangy cream cheeses used mainly in cooking.




          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                   ALIMENTA 10
                                                                                                              CUCINA




Sweets seem almost sinful after such rich fare.That may
explain why fruit, especially home grown peaches, cher-
ries, strawberries, pears and muskmelons, as well as nuts,
are prominent in the diet. Of special note are the cherries
of Vignola and the pears, peaches and nectarines pro-
tected as IGP in Romagna. Chestnuts thrive in the Apen-
nines, where the Marrone del Castel Rio rates an IGP.
Emilia-Romagna boasts its share of biscuits, pas-
tries, tarts, sweet ravioli and tortelli, sherbets and
ices. Traditional desserts include Bologna’s cer-
tosino (spice cake), Ferrara’s torta di mele (apple           The traditional type is protected by a DOP in Modena
cake), Modena’s bensone (lemon-flavored crum-                 and Reggio, but imitations abound. The tradizionale
ble), Romagna’s gialetti (cornmeal biscuits) and              is a unique condiment for meat, fish, and vegetables
piada dei morti (flatbread with nuts and raisins).            or the prime ingredient in sauces. Vinegars of 20 years
Aceto balsamico tradizionale is aged at least 12 years        old or more may be sipped from a teaspoon as a cordial
in barrels of different types of wood to become dark,         or digestive.
dense and almost too divine to be called vinegar.             Emilia-Romagna boasts 18 DOC wines. In Emilia, where
                                                              most wines are bubbly, the perfect foil for luxury fare
                                                              is vivacious red Lambrusco, dry, however, not sweet. In
                                                              Romagna, hearty red Sangiovese goes with meats and
                                                              cheeses and the dry white Trebbiano is preferred with
                                                              fish. The region’s lone DOCG is the white Albana di Ro-
                                                              magna, historically sweet but today mainly dry. Emilia’s
                                                              preferred digestivo is nocino, a liqueur made of green
                                                              walnuts steeped in distilled spirits.


          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                  ALIMENTA 11
SPECIALITIES

Culatello di Zibello (DOP)                                    Mortadella Bologna (IGP)


      C     omes from the leg of an adult hog and be-
            longs to the category of naturally- aged
foods. After salting, the ham is aged for at least 11
                                                                   M      ortadella Bologna, the most famous sausage
                                                                          in the culinary tradition of the city of Bologna,
                                                              dates back to the sixteenth century. Since the late Renais-
months during which time the climatic features of the         sance, there have been numerous literary and historical
                                                              references to the product. In more recent times, the original
zone of production play an essential part in determin-
                                                              area of production was extended to outlying districts as the
ing the characteristics of the final product. The result      food-making business and associated commerce expanded.
is a distinctive pear-shaped ham entwined in reams of         Mortadella Bologna may be oval or cylindrical in shape. Its
string that form a broadknit net. The meat is uniformly       texture must be close and inelastic. When cut the Mortadella
red and speckled with pieces of white fat between             Bologna will be smooth and uniformly pink in colour. Each
the muscle fibres. The scent is intense and distinctive,      slice must be composed of at least fifteen per cent of small
while the taste is sweet and delicate. The importance         pearly-white squares of animal fat. The squares of fat must
of the local geography for the quality of the product         be evenly distributed and firmly embedded in the meat mix-
lies in the particularly moist climatic conditions typi-      ture. Mortadella Bologna has a distinctive aromatic scent and
                                                              a characteristic taste, free of any hint of smoking.
cal to the territory along the River Po where Culatello
di Zibello is traditionally produced. The hot summers
and foggy autumns form an ideal combination for the
production of Culatello di Zibello which is aged gradu-
ally to bring out fully its unmistakable scent and taste.
Culatello di Zibello is made in Polesine, Busseto, Zibello,
Soragna, Roccabianca, San Secondo, Sissa and Colorno,
all towns in the region of Emilia Romagna




         Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                      ALIMENTA 12
                                                                                                                     SPECIALITIES

Cotechino di Modena (IGP)                                         Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale
                                                                  di Modena (DOP)
         I   n the popular imagination, Zampone and Cote-
             chino di Modena became closely identified with
the city’s gastronomic tradition. The spread of Cotechino and
                                                                         B     alsamic vinegar (Italian: aceto balsamico) is a
                                                                               traditional flavoured vinegar commonly used in
                                                                  Italian cuisine. It is also often used as a salad dressing when
Zampone di Modena to outlying markets was accelerated             combined with oil. It is a traditional product originating in
when two workshops, Frigeri and Bellentani, became the            Modena, where it has been made since the Middle Ages and
first to adopt a semi-industrial manufacturing process. They      some of the names are protected by the Denominazione di
acted in response to the transformation of local agriculture      Origine Protetta and the European Union’s Protected desig-
from a craft to an industrial system due to intensive livestock   nation of origin. Unlike common vinegars, only the traditional
breeding. This process of modernization contributed sub-          balsamic vinegar of Modena is dark and thick with a complex
stantially to the diffusion of the two products. As the com-      but sweet taste, well aged, and much more expensive.
ments of the Rome food writer Vincenzo Agnoletti and many         Balsamic vinegar is manufactured from the juice of white
others indicate, both products had achieved outstanding           grapes (typically, trebbiano grapes) boiled down to approxi-
success on a large scale by 1800. The technical skills of the     mately 50% of its original volume to create a concentrated
workers in the industry, which they have traditionally passed     must, which is then fermented with a slow aging process
down from one generation to the next, are fundamental to          which concentrates the flavours. The flavour intensifies over
the excellence of the two products. Their distinctive qualities   decades, with the vinegar being kept in fine wooden casks,
reflect important human as well as environmental factors.         becoming sweet, viscous and very concentrated. During this
Zampone and Cotechino di Modena are cured meat prod-              period, a proportion evaporates: it is said that this is the “the
ucts made from a blend of pork obtained from striated mus-        angels’ share,” a term also used in the production of scotch
cle fibers, pork fat, pigskin and various seasonings. They must   whisky, wine, and other alcoholic beverages.
be easy to slice. The interiors of both products are mottled      The finest and most traditional balsamic vinegar is very
pinkish-red to red in color. The meat mixture must be close-      labour-intensive to produce; while it ages and gradually
textured with a uniform particle size. Zampone di Modena          evaporates, the liquid is transferred to successively smaller
must also be covered by a natural casing made from the skin       casks made of different woods, absorbing the flavour char-
of the animal’s shank and tied at the top. The zones in which     acteristics of each wood and becoming more concentrated
the two products are made consist of the entire territories of    with each transfer. Oak, mulberry, chestnut, cherry, juniper,
the provinces of Modena, Ferrara, Ravenna, Rimini, Forl์, Bo-     ash, and acacia are the most commonly used woods.
logna, Reggio Emilia, Parma, Piacenza, Cremona, Lodi, Pavia,
Milan, Varese, Como, Lecco, Bergamo, Brescia, Mantua, Verona
and Rovigo.




          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                           ALIMENTA 13
                                                   w




Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok   ALIMENTA 14
www.italianfestivalthailand.com




          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok   ALIMENTA 15
SPECIALITIES

Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale                                              Prosciutto di Modena (DOP)
di Reggio Emilia (DOP)
         L    ike the traditional balsamic vinegar produced in the
              neighboring province of Modena, the Reggio Emilia
version has been around for centuries.
The method followed in producing the Reggio Emilia vinegar is ba-
sically the same as the techniques applied in Modena province. As
to the difference between the two vinegars, some expert tasters say
that the Reggio Emilia version is more delicate than the one made in
Modena and slightly more acidic. The production zone is the part of
Reggio Emilia province where selected Trebbiano, Occhio di Gatta,
Spergola, Berzemino and Lambrusco grapes are grown. Aceto Bal-
samico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia is noted for its substantial con-
tent of glycerol and gluconic acid and the quantity of acetic acid is
always higher in respect to titratable acidity. In Reggio Emilia, the
preferred woods are chestnut, oak, mulberry, juniper, cherry, ash and
                                                                                   T     he origins of Prosciutto di Modena go all the way back
                                                                                         to the Bronze Age when man discovered how to rear
                                                                          domestic animals and cure meat in salt. In recorded economic histo-
locust. As at Modena, vinegars that have been aged for more than 25       ry, the preservation of meats by salting became widespread with the
years can be described as extravecchio but Reggio Emilia’s produc-        arrival of the Celts and the practice was later refined in Roman times.
ers have gone further and adopted a rating system. Three catego-          A leg of Prosciutto di Modena is pearshaped. The bright red interior
ries have been defined; aragosta, argento and oro, and they signify       gives off an agreeable aroma. The meat is tasty, but sweet rather than
good quality, superior quality and exceptional quality, respectively.     salty. The production area includes numerous town districts in the
The top vinegar, the oro, is consumed principally as a cordial and it     provinces of Modena, Bologna and Reggio Emilia.
is served in a tiny glass or tablespoon. The classification is intended
to help consumers in selecting the type of vinegar that best fits their
needs. The Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Reggio Emilia has the          Prosciutto di Parma (DOP)
following characteristics: a dark, limpid and luminous brown color;
a fragrant and pleasantly acidic aroma that varies according to the
types of wood used and a well-balanced sweet and sour flavor with
substantial acidity that is in equilibrium with the odor.




                                                                                   P  rosciutto di Parma marks one of the high points of the
                                                                                      Italian culinary tradition. Renowned and appreciated
                                                                          throughout the world, the history and traditions of Prosciutto di
                                                                          Parma go far back in time to more than 2,000 years ago. The special
                                                                          environmental, ecological and climatic conditions of the area of


           Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                                      ALIMENTA 16
                                                                                                                                           SPECIALITIES
production provide the key to how this culinary delight originated.
The first step in the making of an inimitable Prosciutto di Parma con-
                                                                                 Pesca e Nettarina di Romagna (IGP)
sists in the careful selection of prime-grade raw material, namely the
hog. The meat must then be treated and seasoned using traditional
methods carried out in a strictly delimited area of production within
the province of Parma. The ham is aged for at least 10-12 months. Just
one single ingredient, salt, may be used in the treatment of the meat.
This is why Prosciutto di Parma is an absolutely natural product that
manages to be delicious, easily digestible and nutritional all at once.
The Consorzio del Prosciutto di Parma (Parma Ham Consortium of
farmers and producers) protects and assures the quality and authen-
ticity of the product and enforces full respect for tradition. A genu-
ine Prosciutto di Parma may be identified by the trademark used by
this consortium: a ducal crown. This crown is the only guarantee to
consumers that the product they are buying has all the qualities that
                                                                                          T   he first historical references to the presence of this
                                                                                              fruit date back to the early fourteenth century. In the
                                                                                 following centuries, the growing of peaches and nectarines spread
have made this ham justly famous throughout the world.                           throughout this region, long before they arrived in the rest of the
                                                                                 country. The area of cultivation has a climate typical of a flat lowland
Parmigiano Reggiano (DOP)                                                        region, though it is also influenced by the vicinity of the Adriatic. It
                                                                                 enjoys a mean annual temperature that is higher than elsewhere in
                                                                                 the region, and the fruit is therefore almost completely safe from the
                                                                                 ravages of spring frost. So suited is this area to the cultivation of the
                                                                                 crop that around one quarter of the national output comes from
                                                                                 here. The area of cultivation encompasses many town districts in the
                                                                                 provinces of Bologna, Forlì, Ferrara and Ravenna.

                                                                                 Pera dell’Emilia-Romagna (IGP)
                                                                                          T   he first historical mention of the Pera dell’Emilia Ro-
                                                                                              magna was in the early 1300s. Pears were commonly
                                                                                 grown in Emilia Romagna long before the rest of Italy. By way of ex-

          T    his is a cooked and unpressed, semi-fat, hard cheese
               made from raw cow’s milk. The cheese is encased
within a yellowish-golden and slightly oily rind on which the brand
                                                                                 ample, one of the towns within the area of cultivation contains a fres-
                                                                                 co from 1450 known as the “Madonna with pears,” a clear indication
                                                                                 of the presence of the fruit at the time. The Pera dell’Emilia Romagna
name Parmigiano Reggiano is stencilled in small dots. This very flaky            comes in several varieties which we may list as follows: Abate Fetel,
and highly soluble cheese is very finely grained and ranges in co-               Cascade, Conference, Decana del Comizio, Kaiser, Max Red Bartlett,
lour from ivory white to straw-yellow. A chief feature of Parmigiano             Passa Crassana and Williams. As the fruit is highly susceptible to the
Reggiano is the presence of small white crystals which are indicative            damaging influence of frost, the orchards are located within a cir-
of the lengthy ripening period (on average 24 months). The taste is              cumscribed area where the mean annual temperature is higher and
delicate, fragrant and very savoury with a lactic and vegetal aroma.             mean precipitation lower than elsewhere in the region. This area is
There is a vast array of literary, historical and scientific literature relat-   so conducive to the fruit that half the national pear crop comes from
ing to this cheese. It first gets a literary mention by Giovanni Boccac-         here. The area extends across numerous town districts in the prov-
cio, while later writers such as Moliére, Diderot and D’Alambert are             inces of Bologna, Modena, Reggio Emilia, Ferrara and Ravenna.
full of praise for its organoleptic and nutritional properties. Called
Parmesan in English, the cheese soon became known beyond the
lands in which it is made thanks to the many visitors to Italy who
relished its fine taste and quality. Parmigiano Reggiano is manufac-
tured every day in traditional cheese-making plants in Parma, Reg-
gio Emilia, Modena, as well as some areas located in the provinces of
Bologna and Mantua.


             Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                                            ALIMENTA 17
WINES

Albana di Romagna (DOCG)




     A     lbana di Romagna, is most often dry and still with
           a distinctive almond undertone and occasionally
some complexity. Albana’s best expression seems to be as a
                                                                   district from Mantuan territory.
                                                                   All four of the existing Lambrusco Denominazioni di Origine
                                                                   Controllata are found in that zone.
richly sweet passito from partly dried grapes. It is reported      Lambrusco has an extremely noble background. The wild
that in 435 Galla Placida, the beautiful daughter of the East-     vine from which the existing variety originated, called
ern Roman Emperor Theodosius II, arrived early one morn-           “labrusca” by the Latins, was known to the Etruscans and
ing in a small village in the Romagna. The princess’s beauty       Romans. And its fossilized remains have been found in soils
astonished the inhabitants of the place, who, as soon as they      of the Eocene period.
saw her, offered her a large terracotta jug of the area’s sweet    The Romans made a bitterish beverage from labrusca grapes,
and excellent wine, the Albana.                                    which Pliny the Elder recommended for its supposed thera-
 Galla Placida was so taken by the wine that she remarked,         peutic effects. The elder Cato cited the productiveness of the
“You should not drink this wine in such an humble contain-         Emilian vines, which he described as “tricentennary” because
er. Rather it should be drunk in gold (berti in oro) to render     a single jugerum (about half an acre) yielded 300 amphoras
homage to its smoothness.”                                         of wine.
Since then, the village has been called Bertinoro. And, at the
court of Ravenna, Albana was thereafter drunk exclusively in
precious goblets. Bertinoro is today an important center for       Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro
the production of Albana.                                          (DOC)
Setting aside legend, the first historical account concerning
Albana di Romagna is contained in the celebrated treatise
on agriculture written by Pier de’ Crescenzi of Bologna in the
13th century. The treatise contains in fact the first descrip-
                                                                          T   his wine is produced from the Lambrusco Grasp-
                                                                              arossa variety. Although not possessing great
                                                                   vigour, the vine is distinguished by a special characteristic:
tion of the wine and of its production area: “a potent wine        with the arrival of autumn, not only the leaves turn red, but
with a noble flavor that is quite drinkable and moderately         also the stalk and pedicels. The relevant production rules
subtle...the best of this type of grape can be had at Forli’ and   permit the Lambrusco Grasparossa vine to be cultivated
throughout the Romagna.”                                           alongside a modest percentage of Lambrusco and Fortana
                                                                   (“Uva d’Oro”) varieties. None the less the wine is essentially
Lambrusco di Sorbara (DOC)                                         derived from the vine of the same name. The sparse, coni-
                                                                   cal-shaped cluster is medium in length with roundish fruits.

         I   n the provinces of Reggio Emilia and Modena,
             Lambrusco vineyards extend from the slopes of
the hills to the line of the Po river, which separates the
                                                                   The grapes range from plummy dark blue to blackish, have
                                                                   a thick skin and contain a medium juicy, sweetish, slightly
                                                                   acidulous pulp.


          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                           ALIMENTA 18
                                                                                                                               WINES
                                                                     activities cultivated vineyards, were entertaining an illustri-
                                                                     ous guest one day at their convent, which stood then, as it still
                                                                     does today, on a hill known as Collis Jovis near Sant’Angelo di
                                                                     Romagna. The guest greatly appreciated the friars’ wine and
                                                                     asked them its name, which greatly embarrassed the clerics,
                                                                     since they had never thought to give it one. One friar who was
                                                                     faster on the uptake than the others promptly replied that it
                                                                     was called Sanguis di Jovis.
                                                                     Sanguis di Jovis was soon converted into Sangue di Giove,
                                                                     which was inevitably contracted to Sangiovese.
Due to its lack of vigour, the Lambrusco Grasparossa vine is
best cultivated in smaller vineyards, where it does well, even       Trebbiano di Romagna (DOC)
on rather poor soils, such as those on the lower slopes of the
Modenese hills.
It bears up well to climatic and other adversities, and matures
fairly late, after waiting to capture the very last rays of autumn
sunshine (years ago, harvesting went on well into Novem-
ber).

Sangiovese di Romagna (DOC)
                                                                         T    he Trebbiano di Romagna, is often light and fresh
                                                                              and, whether still or bubbly, has a fragility that ren-
                                                                     ders it best in its youth.
                                                                     The Trebbiano variety appeared in the Romagna during the
                                                                     Etruscan period. In fact, the Etruscans reclaimed and put
                                                                     into cultivation a major part of the whole region. In 1305,
                                                                     the Bolognese agronomist Pier de’ Crescenzi in his treatise
                                                                     Liber ruralium commodorum discussed the Trebbiano vari-

      R      ich, ripe nose of dusty blackberry fruits, cherries
             and smoky oak characteristics. The palate is me-
dium bodied, soft and dry, with generous black fruits, good
                                                                     ety, describing it as “a white, with a small, round grape that
                                                                     it bears abundantly. In its youth, the vine does not bear fruit
                                                                     but when it grows older it becomes fecund.”
supportive structure with balancing acidity and a complex,           Trebbiano now holds an important place in the enology of
lengthy finish.                                                      the Romagna.
Sangiovese is clearly a native variety but there are many hy-        Throughout the region, depending upon location and system
potheses as to the exact origin of its name, which, in the lo-       of vinification, the ancient variety yields wines that are light,
cal dialect, is Sanzvès. The most widely accepted explanation        delicately odorous and sapid. They are wines that should be
was advanced by glottologist F. Schurr, Tribune of the Wines         drunk in their youth.
of the Romagna, who died several years ago According to              Over the centuries, the old Trebbiano has produced numer-
Schurr, the denomination of the variety was derived from             ous subvarieties that are widely cultivated in Italy and in
Monte Giove, a hill located in the vicinity of Sant’Angelo di        some zones in France, where the grapes and the wines they
Romagna.That argument is bolstered by a local legend, ac-            yield are used in making Cognac.
cording to which the Cappuchin friars, who among their
other

           Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                             ALIMENTA 19
Traditional Dishes from Emilia-Romagna
CASTAGNACCIO                                                   the liqueur, baking soda and cream of tartar to the
                                                               flour. Add the butter and knead till smooth. Roll the
Chestnut Crust                                                 dough into the shape of a large sausage to fit a 12-in.

                                               S
                                            ift the chest-
                                            nut
                                    add the sugar and
                                                      flour;
                                                               ring mold.
                                                               Butter a ring mold and dust with the flour. Shape the
                                                               dough into the ring and pinch the two ends together.
                                    a pinch of salt. Add       Brush the top with the remaining egg yolk, dust with
                                    2 pts. cold water in       granulated sugar, and place almonds on top. Bake at
                                    a thin stream, beat-       350°F for about 30 mins, let cool and remove ciambella
                                    ing constantly with        from mold. Serve.
                                    a whisk so as not to
form lumps. Add 3 tbs. oil, orange peel, raisins, pine nuts
and walnuts. Add warm milk little by little until you get
a stiff consistency. Pour the batter into a greased pan
large enough for the crust to be 1/2-in. thick. Dribble
on some oil. Pre-heat the oven to 400°F and bake for
an hour. Serve warm or cold. It can also be served with
whipped cream.

Ingredients                                                    Ingredients
1 lb. chestnut flour       1 tbs. grated orange zest           2 cups flour              1 1/2 lbs. Confectioner’s sugar
4 tbs. sugar               4 tbs. raisins, soaked and          1 tsp. vanilla            1 sachet baking soda
1 pinch salt                 squeezed                          zest of 1/2 lemon         1 tbs. granulated sugar
2 tbs. pine nuts           2 tbs. walnuts, coarsely chopped    2-3 tbs. milk             3 eggs, separated
3 tbs. olive oil             milk, as needed                   6 tbs. butter             2 tbs. Sassolino or Maraschino
                                                               1 oz. almonds, shelled      liqueur
Note:
Fennel seeds can be used in place of walnuts.
                                                               PIADINA
CIAMBELLA BOLOGNESE                                            Piadina
Almond Cake

           R   eserving 1 tbs. flour, mix the flour with
               the confectioner’s sugar, vanilla, grated
                                                                      I   t is a specialty of the Romagna region, made
                                                                          of a disk of pasta that can be substituted for
                                                               bread. It can be eaten with a soft cheese (squaquarone,
lemon rind and a pinch of salt. Dissolve the baking            a delicacy of Romagna) or with prosciutto either cotto
soda and cream of tartar in 2-3 tbs. of milk. Melt 5 oz.       or crudo. It is best served warm, and must be cooked on
butter in a saucepan. Add 2 egg yolks, 1 egg white,            the proper flat iron pan called a testo, on a lively flame.

          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                     ALIMENTA 20
Pour the flour on the pastry board forming a cone with          RAGU’ BOLOGNESE
a cavity on the top (a fontana in Italian, i.e. “like a foun-   Meat Sauce
tain”). Add the strutto and knead the dough using just
enough lukewarm salted water (not hot) so as to ob-
tain a rather firm dough. Knead vigorously for 10 mins.
and divide the dough into pieces to be rolled out or-
stretched by hand to make each piadina about 8 in. in
diameter. Heat up the testo on burning coal, or on a
stove, and lay on a disk of dough (do not brush with oil).
Let cook well on one side and then turn it over; when
you notice little charred bubbles forming on the disk,
the dough is ready. Continue cooking several disks of
piadina in this way, placing the ones that are ready in a
pile so that they keep warm.                                           P    repare a battuto with pancetta, celery, car-
                                                                            rot and onion. Melt butter in a saucepan,
                                                                add the battuto and the ground meats, brown well,
                                                                then add the wine and half the broth. Continue to cook
                                                                until the liquids are reduced, then add the remaining
                                                                broth. Reduce again, then add the peeled and seeded
                                                                tomatoes, a pinch of salt and pepper to taste. Cover
                                                                saucepan and let cook over a medium heat for 2 hours.
                                                                Add the cream, and correct salt and pepper to taste.
                                                                The sauce is ready to serve over fresh or stuffed pasta.


                                                                Ingredients
Serve piadina either plain instead of bread or folded           3 oz. pancetta              l/2 lb. ground veal or pork
over with a filling such as: cheese, mortadella, prosciut-      1 stalk celery              1 small carrot
to, or a cooked green vegetable, such as chicory or bit-        1/2 cup dry red wine        1 small onion
ter broccoli.                                                   1 cup broth                 1/2 oz. butter
                                                                1 tbs.tomato paste          1/2 lb. ground beef
Ingredients                                                     1 oz. cream                 pepper
2 lbs. white flour                                              salt
1 oz. fresh strutto
fine salt
                                                                Note:
Note:                                                           Variations of this sauce may include the addition of
Piadina can also be cooked into an 8-in. round cast iron        prosciutto, porcini or chicken livers.
pan.


          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                   ALIMENTA 21
Tagliatelle                                                   Cappelletti




                                                                   T    he word cappelletto means “little hat,” which
                                                                        is what this pasta should resemble; they’re

                F   rom the Italian verb “tagliare” ,
                    meaning “to cut” Tagtiatelle is the
                                       .
classic pasta of the Emilia-Romagna. Individually, they
                                                              from Modena. They are traditionally served in broth,
                                                              as are their cousins, tortellini (the difference lies in the
                                                              stuffing); indeed, the traditional North Italian Christ-
are long, flat ribbons, similar in shape to fettuccine, but   mas dinner starts with cappelletti in capon broth.
typically about 0.65cm to 1cm (0.25 to 0.375 inches)          If you plan to serve cappelletti in broth, you should
wide. They can be served with a variety of sauces,            have about two quarts of broth. You can, of course,
though the classic is a meat sauce or Bolognese sauce.        also serve either cappelletti or tortellini dry, with meat
Legend has it that during the Italian Renaissance, in the     sauce, cream sauce, or butter.
year 1487, a talented court chef, inspired by Lucrezia
d’Este’s hairdo, on the occasion of her marriage to An-       Tortelli
nibale II Bentivoglio, son of Giovanni II, Lord of Bologna
created tagliatelle. The recipe was of tagliolini di pasta
e sugo, alla maniera di Zafiran (tagliolini of pasta and
sauce in the manner of Zafiran) and it was served on
silver plates. Over the years, tagliatelle has acquired a
much less sophisticated tradition, as tradition wills it to
be eaten by simple folk. Since tagliatelle are generally
made as fresh pasta, the texture is porous and rough,
making it ideal for thick sauces, generally made with
beef, veal, or pork, and occasionally with rabbit, as well
as several other less rich (and more vegetarian)
                                                                   A     stuffed pasta made in several different shapes,
                                                                         which may be square like ravioli, half circle-
                                                              shaped like anolini, or twisted into a rounded form to
options; such as briciole e noci (with breadcrumbs and        appear like the shape of a small hat similar to cappel-
nuts), uovo e formaggio (with eggs and cheese - a less        letti. Typically, the inner filling is formed into a small
rich carbonara), or simply pomodoro e basilico (with          ball shape and placed on a 2 inch circle or rectangle
tomatoes and basil).                                          of pasta. The pasta is then folded in half to form a half
                                                              circle or a square. Or, it can also be formed into a thin


         Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                      ALIMENTA 22
rectangle that is sealed on the edges by hand and
folded around a finger to create a small hat shape. If
not available substitute pansotti, ravioli or cappelletti.
Totrelli may also be referred to as anolini pasta.
Tortelli is often filled with pumpkin (zucca), crushed
sweet cookies, and parmesan cheese to create a com-
mon dish known as Tortelli con Zucca that is topped
with butter and sage sauce topped with grated
parmesan.



Tortellini




     T    ortellini is a variety of ring-shaped pasta. They
          are typically stuffed with Parmesan cheese
and occasionally with a mix of meat (pork loin, pro-
sciutto crudo and mortadella). Originally from Emilia
Romagna (in particular Bologna and Modena), they
are usually served in broth, with cream, or sometimes
with a ragù.
Packed, refrigerated or frozen tortellini and tortelloni
appear in many locations around the world, especially
where Italian communities have a certain relief. Tortel-
lini and tortelloni are made in special industrial lines
supplied, all over the world, by Italian companies such
as Arienti & Cattaneo, Ima, Ostoni, Zamboni, etc.; “fresh”
packed tortellini have usually 7 weeks of shelf-life.

          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                  ALIMENTA 23
                                in
Italian Trade Commission - Bangkokcooperation with   sponsored by   ALIMENTA 24
Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok   ALIMENTA 25
Fairs in Emilia-Romagna

                                                              “MIA” – 39th International Food Show
                                                              (Food, Beverage & Trends in Eating out and large-scale
                                                              distribution)
                                                              Rimini, 14-17 February 2009
                                                              Website: www.miafiera.it/en/

                                                                         MIA is the leading appointment for the eating
                                                              out food trade, an opportunity for checking out a mar-
                                                              ket that has a turnover in Italy of 65.7 billion euros and
                                                              is still growing. Interesting new inroads into large-scale
                                                              distribution will be provided by the second large-scale
                                                              Distribution Buyers’ Day, with round tables and meet-
                                                              ings with companies and the participation of the ADIS
                                                              Federdistribuzione, attending the expo with its cash
                                                              and carry members.




“SANA”- 20^ International Exhibition of
Natural Products                                              “CIBUS” -15th International Food Exhibition
Bologna, 11-14 Sept 2008                                      Parma, 10-13 May 2010
Website: www.sana.it                                          Website: www.cibus.it
                                                              www.fiereparma.it
          Three areas of research nutritional awareness,
certificates of quality, organic products - are at the cen-        Cibus 2010- an international showcase for the Ital-
ter of the 2008 survey by the Permanent Observatory           ian food. News and changes for the 15th edition of
on consumption. The heart of this edition emphasiz-           Cibus, which will be held in Parma from 10 to 13 May
ing on the discovery of good food. The layout of or-          2010. Starting from the dates chosen to make easier
ganic products hall is clearly separates from those with      contacts between visitors and exhibitors, new contents
typical certified products. SANA confirms the emphasis        (side events, conferences, b2b meetings and more) for
on quality: to update, inform, and introduce trade op-        professionals and international buyers, focuses on in-
erators to the public.                                        ternational trade and great distribution chains.

          Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                 ALIMENTA 26
                                             at     THAIFEX – World of Food ASIA
                                             B a n g k o k ,                2 1        –    2 5     M a y        2 0 0 8
                                             I M PA C T E x h i b i t i o n C e n t e r, C h a l l e n g e r     H a l l 3
Fo r more infor m at i o n p l e a s e co nt a c t I t a l i a n Tra d e Co m m i s s i o n Te l + 6 6 2 . 6 3 3 8 4 9 1 - 3




        Italian Trade Commission - Bangkok                                                     ALIMENTA 27

				
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