Three men circle the room, masseuses competing for clients. They are insistent: "Slushai, slushai," they say. "Listen, listen." They promise a discount if you pay them directly, cash, no need for the front desk to know.He decides I'm an amusing specimen. "We'll get undressed," he smiles, "then it'll really be like Russia!""Ah," [Masha] says, looking at me, "and that's how you know you're done with banya."