TEGO Cosmo C Sodium-PCA

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                         TEGO® Cosmo C 100

                         Multifunctional Additive for Skin
                            and Hair Care Formulations


                 • Amino acid derivative naturally occurring in the
                   body

                 • For Skin Care Applications:
                      • Revitalization of cell energy metabolism
                      • Supports skin protection
                      • Moisturizer

                 • For Hair Care Applications:
                      • Improves volume and feel of damaged hair
                      • Smoothes the hair cuticle
                                      Goldschmidt Personal Care




                                                                      Page 1 of 7
                                                   Skin Care
INCI-Name (CTFA-Name)
                                                   Properties
Creatine
                                                   •   Skin soothing
Chemical and physical properties                   •   Reduces irritation potential
(not part of the specification)                    •   Moisturizing

Form                             crystals          Efficacy studies
Water solubility           approx.14 g/l (20 °C)   •   Revitalizing of skin cells‘ energy metabolism
pH                              approx. 7.4        The physiological fatigue of skin evidenced by
                            (at 14.0 g/l, 20 °C)   the early signs of aging is caused by stress and
                                                   environmental influences. The consequence is
Creatine is a natural amino acid derivative that   a decrease of the energy amount stored in the
has been shown to play an important role in        cells followed by a suppressed capability to
cellular energy metabolism.                        synthesize proteins such as collagen, elastin,
TEGO® Cosmo C 100, manufactured via a              and keratin. Additionally, cells experience
patented process, is the highest quality and       increased oxidative stress as they age ,
purity creatine available on the market.           increasing the amount of energy required for
                                                   internal defenses. So, a well-working energy
                                                   metabolism is essential for skin cells‘ vitality.
Application                                        TEGO® Cosmo C 100 is very effective at
                                                   stimulating the cells‘ energy metabolism.
TEGO® Cosmo C 100 can be used in the
following products:
                                                   The ”cell energizing” effect of
•     Skin Care                                    TEGO® Cosmo C 100 was assessed in-vitro in
    -    Skin soothing formulations                a cell culture (Human keratinocytes, NHEK
    -    Anti-aging formulations                   cells). A pre-screen cytotoxicity study was
    -    After sun products                        conducted using the Neutral Red assay,
    -    Moisturizing formulations                 showing the non-cytotoxicity of
                                                   TEGO® Cosmo C 100.
•     Hair Care                                    Keratinocytes were incubated with TEGO®
    -   Shampoos                                   Cosmo C 100 for 24 hours at 37 °C. After this
    -   Hair rinses                                the cell vitality was measured with XTT, a
    -   Conditioners                               water-soluble Formazan dye. The results are
    -   Styling products                           summarized in Fig. 1. The diagram indicates
    -   Pre-treatments before chemical             that the vitality of the cells treated with 0.01 %
       processes                                   TEGO® Cosmo C 100 was about 60 % higher
                                                   than the control vehicle.




                                                                                               Page 2 of 7
                                                100
                                                                                                         Because TEGO® Cosmo C 100 stimulates both
                                                90                                                       the mitochondrial activity and the protein
 related to control (%)




                                                80                                                       synthesis of the skin, it provides longterm
of the cell viability
    Enhancement




                                                70
                                                                                                         protection from premature aging and
                                                60
                                                50
                                                40
                                                                                                  *      environmental stress, which is important for skin
                                                                                                         soothing and anti-aging formulations.
                                                30
                                                                                                         •                                              Membrane stabilization by
(%)




                                                20
                                                10                                                                                                      TEGO® Cosmo 100
                                                 0
                                                            0.0     0.001       0.005      0.01   0.05   TEGO® Cosmo C 100 helps to ameliorate skin
                                                                          TEGO Cosmo C 100               irritation from various environmental factors. A
                                                                                (%)
                                                                                                         modified red blood cell (RBC) test was used to
                                                                                                         evaluate this effect on cell membrane
                                                                                                         stabilization.
Fig.1: ”Cell energizing” test with keratinocytes

                                          * Saturation of the cells with in vitro concentrations                                                   50
                                                                                                         Difference to the untreated control (%)




                                           > 0.01 %                                                                                                45

                                                                                                                                                   40

                                                                                                                                                   35
The cell energizing effect of TEGO® Cosmo                                                                                                          30
C 100 causes an increase of the cellular protein                                                                                                   25

content (Fig. 2). The effect was demonstrated                                                                                                      20

after a 24 hours incubation with several                                                                                                           15


concentrations of TEGO® Cosmo C 100.                                                                                                               10

                                                                                                                                                   5
Keratinocytes were lysed followed by an
                                                                                                                                                   0
analysis of protein amount (Method of                                                                                                                     Sodium         Benzalkonium   NaLES             CAPB
                                                                                                                                                          laurylsulfat   chloride           Surfactants
Bradford).

                                                                                                         Fig.3: Modified red blood cell (RBC) test
                                          250
           Protein (µg/ ml cell lysate)




                                          200                                                            A defined number of erythrocytes (red blood
                                                                                                         cells) were treated for 1 hour with phosphate-
                                          150
                                                                                                         buffered saline PBS as a standardized
                                          100                                                            biological buffer (control) or PBS containing 1 %
                                           50
                                                                                                         of TEGO® Cosmo C 100.
                                            0                                                            Afterwards, blood cells were stressed for
                                                      0.0         0.001        0.005    0.01      0.05   10 minutes with surfactants at defined
                                                                     COSMOCAIR C 100 (%)                 concentrations.
                                                                                                         Damaged, or lysed, cells can be determined by
                                                                                                         a spectroscopic determination of free
Fig. 2: Protein assay of cell lysates                                                                    hemoglobin. Free hemoglobin is proportional to
                                                                                                         the number of lysed cells.




                                                                                                                                                                                                           Page 3 of 7
The efficacy of TEGO® Cosmo C 100 to reduce
hemolysis (as compared to the blank) is clearly
demonstrated in Fig.3. A higher percentage                    Bleaching

difference indicates greater protection. It can be
shown that damaging effects caused by                                                                  TEGO Cosmo C
                                                                                                       C100
                                                                                                                      100
                                                                                                       Blank
surfactants are mitigated in cells preconditioned        Permanent wave
with TEGO® Cosmo C 100.
                                                                          0   50       100      150        200              250
Hair Care                                                                     Increase of wet combing force [%]

Properties
•   Hair Conditioning Properties
                                                     Fig. 4: Wet combing measurements
TEGO® Cosmo 100 has a conditioning effect on
hair. It improves body/volume and the dry feel           Predamaged (permed and bleached)
of hair treated with TEGO® Cosmo C 100 before        European brown hair was treated with TEGO®
a bleaching or a permanent wave.                     Cosmo C 100 followed by a further damaging
TEGO® Cosmo C 100 smoothes the surface of            step (bleaching or perming).
the cuticula (Fig.5) and as consequence the          Afterwards the wet combing forces were
increased combing forces by permanent waving         measured.
or bleaching are minimal (Fig.4). This in turn
reduces the physical damage which results
from combing damaged hair.


                                                               Placebo
                                                               1. Damaged by permanent waving
                                                                  + bleaching
                                                               2. Treated 5 times with Placebo
                                                                  formulation
                                                               3. Damaged again by bleaching


                                                               TEGO® Cosmo C 100
                                                               (2 % solution)
                                                               1. Damaged by permanent waving
                                                                  + bleaching
                                                               2. Treated 5 times with
                                                                   TEGO® Cosmo C 100
                                                                   (2 % solution)
                                                               3. Damaged again by bleaching

Fig. 5: Effect of TEGO® Cosmo C100 on the hair surface




                                                                                                                      Page 4 of 7
Packaging                                           Guide Line Formulations
400 kg pallet (16 x 25 kg boxes)
                                                    O/W Body Lotion with TEGO® Cosmo C 100
Suggested use concentration                         Ma 29/01
                                                    Phase A
0.5 – 1.4 % by weight of TEGO® Cosmo C 100
                                                    TEGOSOFT® DO                (Decyl Oleate)                     5.7 %
                                                                 ®
Hazardous goods classification                      TEGOSOFT OS          (Ethylhexyl Stearate)                     6.5 %
                                                    TEGIN® 4100            (Glyceryl Stearate)                     0.5 %
Information concerning
                                                    Stearic Acid                                                   0.5 %
− classification and labelling according to         Phase B
  regulations for transport and for dangerous       TEGO® Care CG 90 (Cetearyl Glucoside)                         1.0 %
  substances                                        TEGO® Cosmo C 100                                             0.5 %
− protective measures for storage and               Glycerin                                                      3.0 %
  handling
                                                    Water                                                        80.8 %
− measures in accidents and fires
                                                    Phase C
− toxicity and ecological effects
                                                    TEGO® Carbomer 141            (Carbomer)                       0.2 %
is given in our material safety data sheets.        TEGOSOFT® OS         (Ethylhexyl Stearate)                     0.8 %
                                                    Phase D
Literature
                                                    Sodium Hydroxide (10 % in water)                               0.5 %
•   Bünger et al., Proceedings XXIst IFSCC          Preservative, Parfum                                             q.s.
    International Congress, September 2000
•   Pape, W.J.W. & Hoppe, U. (1991) in              Preparation:
    Arzneimittel-Forschung/ Drug Research,          1. Heat phase A and B separately to approx.
    40(I), 4, 498-502                                  80 °C.
                                                    2. Add phase A to phase B with stirring.1)
•   WO 00/15187, Gloxhuber et al. (SKW
                                                    3. Homogenise.
    Trostberg), "Creatine and/or Creatine           4. Cool with gentle stirring to approx. 60 °C and
    Derivatives Used As Cosmetic Preparations          add phase C.
    Containing Moisturizers"                        5. Homogenise for a short time.
•   Several publications of the Institute of Cell   6. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase D below
    Biology, ETH Zürich, Switzerland                   40 °C.
                                                    1)
•   Wallimann et al., Biofactors 8 (3-4),                Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel first,
                                                         phase B must be added without stirring.
    229-234 (1998)
•   Wyss and Wallimann, Mol Cell Biochem,
    133-134 (Apr-May), 51-66 (1994)
•   Wyss and Kaddurah-Daouk, Physiol.
    Rev. 80, 1107-11213 (2000)
•   Schlattner et al., J. Invest. Dermatol. 118,
    416-423 (2002)




                                                                                                                 Page 5 of 7
Skin Firming Body Milk                                                O/W Cream with TEGO® Derm CBS
WR 3/04-15a                                                           WR 3/06-1
Phase A                                                               Phase A
           ®                                                          ABIL® Care 85                                          1.50 %
ISOLAN GPS                     (Polyglyceryl-4            3.00 %      (Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16
Diisostearate/ Polyhydroxystearate/ Sebacate)
                                                                      Dimethicone; Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
Hydrogenated Castor Oil                                   0.25 %      TEGINACID® C                        (Ceteareth-25)     0.50 %
Paracera M                                                0.25 %      TEGIN® M Pellets              (Glyceryl Stearate)      2.00 %
(Microcristalline Wax, Paramelt B.V.)
                                                                      TEGO® Alkanol 18                  (Stearyl Alcohol)    2.00 %
TEGOSOFT® TN                                              10.7 %
(C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)                                               Stearic Acid                                           1.00 %
TEGOSOFT® DEC                                             10.0 %      TEGOSOFT® CT                                           3.00 %
(Diethylhexyl Carbonate)                                              (Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride)
Tocopheryl Acetate                                        0.60 %      TEGOSOFT® TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)                   6.00 %
Phytosphingosine SLC                                      0.20 %      TEGOSOFT® DO             (Decyl Oleate)                1.50 %
                                                                             ®
Phase B                                                               TEGO Derm CBS                                          3.00 %
Glycerin                                                  3.00 %      Tocopheryl Acetate                                     0.50 %
GluCare® S                                                0.20 %      Phase B
(Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan)                                     Glycerin                                               3.00 %
TEGO® Cosmo C 100             (Creatine)                  0.50 %      Allantoin                                              0.10 %
D-Panthenol (Panthenol, Roche Vitamins)                   0.50 %      TEGO® Cosmo C 100            (Creatine)                0.50 %
Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate                            1.00 %      D-Panthenol                                            0.20 %
Water                                                     69.8 %      Phase C
Phase Z                                                               Water                                                  74.5 %
Preservative, Parfum                                           q.s.   TEGO® Carbomer 134         (Carbomer)                  0.10 %
Preparation:                                                          TEGOSOFT® TN (C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate)                   0.40 %
1.   Heat phase A to approx. 80 °C.                                   Phase D
2.   Add phase B (80 °C or room temperature) slowly while stirring.   Sodium Hydroxide (10 % in water)                      0.20 %
3.   Homogenize for a short time.
4.   Cool with gentle stirring below 30 °C and homogenize again.      Phase Z
                                                                      Preservative, Parfum                                        q.s.
                                                                      Preparation:
                                                                      1.   Heat phase A and B separately to approx. 80 °C.
                                                                                                                  1)
                                                                      2.   Add phase A to phase B with stirring.
                                                                      3.   Homogenize.
                                                                      4.   Cool with gentle stirring to approx. 60 °C and add
                                                                           phase C.
                                                                      5. Homogenize for a short time.
                                                                      6. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase D below 40 °C.
                                                                      1)
                                                                         Important: If phase A has to be charged into the vessel
                                                                       first, phase B must be added without stirring.




                                                                                                                            Page 6 of 7
Mild and Creamy Facial Cleansing Foam                     Conditioning Shampoo for damaged hair
SG 1020/1                                                 SG 968/5
REWOPOL® SB CS 50 K                               8.0 %   Sodium Laureth Sulfate                      32.0 %
(Disodium PEG-5 Laurylcitrate Sulfosuccinate;
Sodium Laureth Sulfate)
                                                          VARISOFT® PATC                               1.5 %
                                                          (Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride)
TEGO® Betain 810                                6.60 %
(Capryl/Capramidpropyl Betaine)                           REWODERM® LI S 80                            2.0 %
                                                          (PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate;
Parfum                                          0.25 %    PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate)
TEGOSOFT® PC 31                                 0.50 %    ABIL® Quat 3272                              2.0 %
(Polyglyceryl-3-Caprate)
                                                          (Quaternium-80)
Water                                           82.7 %    Parfum                                      0.25 %
TEGO® Cosmo C 100                               0.25 %    Water                                      52.95 %
Walocel® HM 50 PA 2910                          0.50 %    TEGO® Cosmo C 100                            1.0 %
(Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose)
LACTIL®                                         1.00 %    Hydroxypropyl Guar                           0.2 %
(Sodium Lactate; Sodium PCA; Glycine;                     Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Fructose; Urea; Niacinamide; Inositol; Sodium             TEGO® Betain F 50                            8.0 %
Benzoate; Lactic Acid)
                                                          (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)
D-Panthenol                                     0.20 %.
                                                          Preservative                                     q.s.
Preparation:                                              Preparation:
Dissolve the TEGO Cosmo C 100 and the Walocel             Dissolve the Guar Quat and the TEGO Cosmo C
HM 50 in the water and let it swell. Blend the other      100 in the water and let it swell.
ingredients in the given order.                           Solve the ingredients in the given order in the
Very mild, refatting and moisturizing. Provides           Sodium Laureth Sulfate. Then add the water with the
creamy and stable foam.                                   Guar Quat and the TEGO Cosmo C 100, and then
For application with fingerpump foamer (e.g. of           the TEGO Betain F 50.
Airspray International, NL)
                                                                                                    I 02/06




                                                                                                      Page 7 of 7

				
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Description: TEGO Cosmo C Sodium-PCA