© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 1 of 13 Greece Interlude Report 30 ALBANIA EUROPE Aegean Sea ATLANTIC Venetian Forts CORFU Ayiou Ioannou Ionian Sea (Parga) GREECE Levkas MED Menganisi Ithika Corinth Canal Athens AFRICA RED Olympia SEA Katakolon PELOPONNISOS GREECE TURKEY Navarinou (Pilos) Kayio Elafonisos Symi Finike Khalki Kithera RHODES Kastellorizon Sea of Crete Souda Dhia Kasos Iraklion Karpathos Samaria Knossos CRETE Gorge Spinalonga MEDITERRANEAN SEA Our six weeks in Greece were spent avoiding urban areas on the mainland where about two-thirds of the population lived possibly making our generalized impressions skewed toward island life. With a civilization dating back thousands of years that has contributed so much to western language, philosophy and the arts, Greeks love everything Greek, including their laid-back attitude. Hardworking, yet relaxed to a level one might view as indifferent, they value their lifestyle with its agrarian roots and Greek Orthodox traditions. Land and extended families are prized along with freedom even to the extent that regulations and laws lack enforcement. Whether or not a building was well built, debris was dealt with properly or the country emerges from overhanging debt was of little concern to the people we meet who were busy enjoying time with family, neighbors and friends barbequing, fishing, or making wine, cheese and olive oil. Don’t ask a Greek to change, they are enjoying life too much to believe it can get a lot better and once you spend time in Greece, you may very well agree. We arrived in Greece on April 23, 2010 after casting off the dock lines at Finike, Turkey, Interlude’s winter berth. A few hours later, we found ourselves anchored in turquoise blue waters off the Greek island of Kastellorizon. Not a port of entry, with the Greek coast guard milling about, we tried to blend in by flying a Greek courtesy flag and did not go ashore. Kastellorizon is the easternmost outpost of Greece about a mile off the Turkish coast and 70 miles East of Rhodes. There are only about 300 inhabitants - down from around 10,000 a hundred years ago when it was a bustling port/metropolis during the age of sail. With its shipping companies failing to adopt steam, occupations during WWI & II and a British fuel depot blowing up half the town, the place is now a shell of what it once was. © Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 2 of 13 After a nice night at anchor, with a fireworks display (commemorating the Brits accidentally blowing up the town?) we departed Kastellorizon at dawn. We bypassed the island of Rhodes having toured its Old Town last year on a ferry trip from Marmaris, Turkey (see our Turkey Report). That evening we anchored in a small sheltered bay off the quiet village of Pethi on Nisos Symi, another Greek island. Being Sunday, we remained quarantined aboard Interlude with entrance formalities planned for Monday. Using our hookah hoses, we dove under the boat to inspect and clean the bottom. The water wasn't too cold in 7mm hooded wetsuits but we did have a bit of a reef to scrub off after six months in a marina. We had calm conditions while we re-anchored Interlude outside the quaint harbor and visited the officials ashore. With some trepidation based on reports of variably enforced regulations, taxes and fees, we proceeded to complete our check-in with minimal hassle. The three attractive female Port Police officers who assisted with our clearance in their tightly fitting black uniforms were Sirens right out of Homer's Odyssey. Noting the lack of ink on our passport entry stamp, we asked the Passport Police officer about a computer database record of our entering the European Union, he replied, “You are in Greece, think like a Greek, and do not worry about formalities.” The Customs officer said Interlude was good for six months with no additional fees. A British couple also trying to clear in did not fare as well however and were sent off to the larger ports of Kos or Rhodes where more permits could be issued. Visiting the various offices scattered along the entire waterfront (luckily it was a small harbor), we became quite familiar with all the shops and bought a Greek SIM card for our cell phone and new sun hats. After lunch, it was time to move Interlude back to our more secure anchorage in Pethi and we invited the British cruisers aboard for some medicinal cocktails. Our US registered yacht, in this case, had an easier time entering the EU than an EU registered yacht! A few restful days later, we took the bus back to town to visit the Port Police Sirens to get an exit stamp in our transit log. Walking back over the hill, with a load of fresh fruit and veggies, we admired all the little Med villas along the way. Construction workers were jack hammering away at the rocky ground (without any safety gear) to carve out a spot for the next villa. Leaving Symi, we had a nice upwind sail in 8-18 knots of breeze tacking around islands and reefs to the island of Khalki just west of Rhodes. The charts, based on hundred-year-old surveys, rendered our GPS ineffectual so we resorted to good old-fashioned eyeball navigation. As we entered the anchorage, the sun was shining thru clear water to the sandy bottom making it a lovely turquoise blue. Welcoming us to this quiet spot were a few bathers testing the chilly April Aegean off the beach, a small white and blue church with attached graveyard on a hill, a sleepy taverna awaiting tourist season, a menagerie of animal sounds including donkeys, goats, dogs and roosters and the occasional weathered old Greek fishermen in his small but sturdy boat. With an early start the next morning, we had a great fifty-mile sail to Nisos Karpathos. Another elderly Greek angler came by to welcome us just as we finished anchoring. He had lived in Chicago for many years and returned to Karpathos to retire and live out his days © Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 3 of 13 receiving two pensions. With all of Greece on strike and rioting in Athens to protest the recent economic belt tightening, seeing the country by yacht was proving to be advantageous. One example of the protested reforms was increasing the age to be eligible for a state pension from 61 to 63. Did the protestors think that the Germans should extend their working age from 67 to 69 so that the Greeks could enjoy an earlier retirement? We enjoyed a very pleasant hike on Karpathos and meet Andy, another pensioner who has come back to retire on the island of his birth. Andy had owned and operated restaurants in four US States and had a daughter living in Maryland. Eighty-four years old, Andy collected US and Greek Social Security payments and spent his days fishing. He told us of the days of his youth when he would row out with his father to catch dozens of big fish, squid and octopus right there in the bay. Now he was lucky to catch a few small fry. His comments confirmed our observations that the Med appears to be over fished. Next, we sailed to the neighboring island of Kasos and anchored in an uninhabited cove surrounded by high crumbling cliffs with a small beach at the head. The dramatically uplifted and twisted layers of rock and many caves made this anchorage our naturally scenic favorite in Greece. A marathon sail in light wind across what the cruising guide calls 'an angry stretch of sea' saw us to Spinalonga Lagoon on Crete. A medieval fortress guarded the narrow entrance to the shallow three-mile long lagoon, an excellent natural harbor. There were only a few other yachts scattered around the shores of the lagoon and we found a spot in a cove on the east side with the town of Elounda within dinghy range. Spinalonga Lagoon was an excellent place to leave Interlude while we explored eastern Crete. Elounda had everything we needed with its beach, tavernas (we had an excellent meal at one built on a jetty in the harbor), two grocery stores (finally some real luncheon meats and bacon), rental cars, bus stop and travel agencies. We stocked up ten liters of the local low acidity (0.3) olive oil – they say the best Italian olive oil is actually a blend of Cretan and Italian oils. The larger town of Agios Nikolaos a short bus ride away was also worth visiting with its ‘bottomless lake’ and upscale shops. Making a rare connection with a musically inclined Dutch couple cruising the Med while living aboard their catamaran Anegada, we enjoyed an evening of wine and song. We took the ‘Land Rover Great Adventure’ off road tour thru the Crete countryside to the Lassithi Valley to see authentic villages, shepherd's dwellings and Zeus's Cave. The latter is the mythical sight where he was born and hidden by his mother Rhea to keep his father from eating him - unlike his eleven brothers and © Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 4 of 13 sisters. When Zeus killed his father, his siblings were resurrected to make up the twelve god Greek pantheon. There were several big Land Rovers in our convoy and all the British drivers were comedians making for a fun trip (highly recommended). Our driver, who had moved to Crete a few years ago and lived in a small village, explained much about village life: Greek culture is matriarchal. Women tend to the finances and children, make all the important family decisions and are responsible for all domestic chores even outside of the home. For example, wives frequently accompany their husbands to the local watering hole and partake in drinking but are expected to make sure their husband’s glass never goes empty. Greek parents provide a home for their children when they get married – typically by constructing a building next door or adding a floor above. Like a college savings account, construction is completed piecemeal as funds are available. Another reason for the prevalence of partially built structures was that property taxes are increased only on completion and occupancy permits are not enforced. Along the roadsides appeared to be mailboxes resembling churches. Our guide explained they were shrines marking the location of a death or injury containing a picture of the deceased and items they may need in the afterlife. Another religious custom was the construction of numerous small chapels in the hills or other remote locations by persons nearing the end of their lives in an attempt at absolution. They are dedicated to a particular saint and persons named after that saint traditionally crawl on their knees to the chapel on their saint’s day and have a family party there (birthdays are not celebrated). Children are named after the saints their grandparents were named after, hence all the Nickis, Dimitris and Yannis we met. The next day we took a more sedate tour by bus to Iraklion and the nearby 4000-year-old site of the Minoan palace of Knossos. The eruption of Thira (Santorini), a volcanic island about 70 miles to the north, probably destroyed the palace and the rest of the Minoan civilization on Crete. Knossos was excavated and partially reconstructed by Sir Arthur Evans starting in 1900 and today tourists will see mostly Sir Evans’ interpretation of the original structure. An upwind sail in light winds along the north coast of Crete found us progressing only halfway to our destination so we anchored in a tiny cove on the small island of Dhia. The rocky cliffs, beach, profusion of birds and a cave with a lean-to, chair and giant crucifix made for interesting surroundings. With no wind the next morning, we motored seven hours in glassy flat calm to Souda Bay to be greeted by 18 knots of local breeze in the afternoon, frustrating the cook’s plan of barbequing. Souda, a NATO Navy Base, had all kinds of restricted areas including firing practice, submarine and mine training. We meet Paul, an American cruiser who swallowed the hook and worked at the base for the past 15 years. He kept his yacht on a mooring off the beach © Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 5 of 13 near where we anchored Interlude. Ours were the only two yachts in the bay. A ten-minute bus ride across the isthmus from Souda was Hania, a big town with all the tourist trappings. We finally managed to get rid of our remaining Turkish lira at an independent currency exchange, something we had been trying to do for weeks at various banks. In Hania, we meet a Brit who had been coming to Crete on holiday with his wife for twenty years and was quite helpful in showing us options for a trip to the Samaria Gorge. In the end, we decided to organize the excursion ourselves instead of using one of the local tour companies. The hike down into and through the Samaria Gorge was spectacular with thousand foot high sheer cliffs towering above the narrow riverbed. Good footwear was essential for the eight and a half mile six hour hike dropping four thousand feet to sea level. The bus ride to the trailhead, ferry ride from the end of the trek at Roumeli to Stakion and bus back to Hania were all very scenic passing small farming towns, orchards, vineyards and remote fishing villages accessible only by water. We had two ways to get to Croatia from Turkey via Greece: Thru the Corinth canal or around the Peloponnisos (the bottom of mainland Greece). The canal may be more direct and the weather around the peninsula can be nasty (locals call it the Cape Horn of the Med) but we wanted to see Crete which turned out to be a highlight of our Greek cruise. With gale warnings forecast on ‘Olympia Radio’, we got an early start at sunrise knowing that we should get to a secure anchorage no later than 1600. The sky was an ominous hazy grey and fickle wind made for difficult sailing especially with a time constraint so we ended up motoring seven of the ten hours it took to reach what we thought would be a secure anchorage for the forecasted westerly winds. We anchored in flat calm at 1550 as a light rain started to fall and the front appeared to be approaching. By 1700 we had 20 knots and whitecaps in the harbor with wind out of the northwest. By the time we finished dinner at 1830 we had four-foot chop and 35 knots putting us on lee shore. We had plenty of daylight to move around to our 'Plan © Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 6 of 13 B' anchorage on the other side of the small island of Makronisos that formed the harbor. Fifteen minutes later, full of excitement from re-anchoring in 40 knots, we were in a much-improved situation. The wrecked bow of the freighter Nordland ominously looming over a nearby low island made a fitting memorial during these weather conditions. After a couple of windy days on Kithera with gusts up to 48 knots and continued gale warnings, we decided to ‘grunt up and get on with it’ and continue westward around the ‘horn’ by moving over to the mainland. The Peloponnisos has three capes, or what we came to call ‘the prongs of Poseidon’s trident’, and each presented us with a challenging day of sailing. The anchorages however were secure and we especially liked Porto Kayio (on the middle ‘prong’) with tall cliffs, terraced fields, several large castle-like stone homes and a monastery. The Venetians named the bay Porto Quaglio (Quaglio = Kayio?) after all the quail that was caught, salted and exported from here. It was, and remains, a convenient and safe harbor for boats making their way around this challenging coastline. We took advantage of calm conditions to motor sixty miles to the large, almost completely enclosed, historic bay of Ormos Navarinou. In 1827, against the odds, Admiral Codrington's 26-ship fleet sailed into the bay with band playing on deck and blasted the 89-ship Turko-Egyptian armada to win Greece its independence. Leaving Interlude at anchor off a nice sandy beach, we set off to find what was marked on our chart as ‘Nestor's Cave’. A light rain began falling as we hiked up the promontory thru a juniper forest with webs strung by giant spiders across a trail that led to a dilapidated castle. Officially signed CLOSED and DANGEROUS, we did not dally or make any noise as we entered the crumbling gate for fear of collapsing the 12th century stonework. We backtracked in the rain thru the spiders to a lagoon trail that led up to the cave, by which time the skies had cleared and we had no need for shelter. Nestor's Cave was mostly one big room with a large opening, named for a Mycenaean King of the area. After a fifty-mile motor up the west coast, we anchored at Katakolon with the hopes of visiting ancient Olympia. A small passenger train went directly from the harbor to the site of the original quadrennial games that date back to 776 BC. The museum was first class with a good overall depiction of the site and many artifacts including one of the largest exhibited collections of Roman armor as well © Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 7 of 13 as displays of cauldrons and votive offering figurines. The architectural statuary from the temple of Zeus was very impressive. The actual grounds are not that well preserved or reconstructed but the overall scale of the ruins and the visual aids at the museum make Olympia one of our favorite Greek sights. Katie even ran a lap in the original ancient Olympic Stadium. The long beach at Katakolon had several tavernas in addition to the many in town servicing the cruise ships that frequent this port. We had a fine fresh seafood meal near the shore with an occasional car or scooter driving by on the sand. Leaving four cruise ships at the dock in Katakolon, we motored another fifty miles to what is clamed be the Ithika of Homer's Odyssey with many of the locations found in the Odyssey touted: Odysseus' Palace, Cave of the Nymphs, Eumaeus' pig sty, etc. However, the islands of Levkos and Cephalonia have also laid claim to the homeland of the hero in this ancient novel. We visited a small archeological museum and found a nice folk museum down an alley marked with a statue of Poseidon where we also had some great Greek seafood at the Poseidon restaurant. As is realized in the telling of the Odyssey, our journey to Ithika was more important than the actual arrival and conclusion, a philosophy that we extend to life in general. After a pleasant sail in light wind to what the cruising guide called a 'Rorschach blob of an island', Nisos Meganisi, we managed to find a spot amongst the now numerous charter yachts (including some who used the anchorage as a racecourse) in a small bay on the well- indented coastline. We had a nice swim in the warm clear water - our first of the season without a wetsuit. The small, secluded cove was quite pretty and we were © Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 8 of 13 ahead of our planned schedule so we decided to stay a few days. We scrubbed scum off the waterline, washed the deck, deployed all awnings, BBQ and officially 'dug in'. Grilled chicken & veggies, a game of Fives dominos, a full moon and a mirror calm anchorage topped off a perfect day of cruising. We enjoyed the next eight nights of cushy cruising, motoring no further than a few miles in the Nidri/Meganisi area. Nidri was a pleasant town with a low-key mixture of locals, charterers, tourists and budget travelers. Some British cruisers familiar with the area directed us to take the bus to the nearby city of Levkada where a local auto parts store custom made some new oil filter hoses for our main engine. Possibly contributing to government debt, the public buses in Greece were very nicely appointed full size Mercedes or Volvo coaches even for what we would consider a short local run. Some of them even had scrolling displays showing upcoming stops or televisions. We reluctantly left Nidri to motor up the narrow canal separating Nisos Levkas from the mainland to take on 300 gallons of diesel at the Levkas Marina Fuel Station. No sooner did we start the juice flowing into Interlude's veins than Zeus made his presence known for the first time in our six weeks in Greece with a powerful display of lightening and torrential rain. Captain Kurt ran around shutting down electronics and Katie stood double duty as fuel filler and lightning rod in her rain jacket and brollie. At €1.449 a liter ($6.61 US/gallon) the price was less than Turkey but not what we had gotten used to paying in Asia or the U.S. Passing the rotating pontoon bridge with four other yachts in the narrow channel was exciting. On the hour, the floating bridge raises ramps on either end and turns ninety degrees to let boats complete the transit of the canal. Once back in open water we motored in calm wind and clearing skies another four hours to anchor at Ormos Ayiou Ianno, a small bay on the mainland where we were the only yacht with just a day taverna and a few sun seekers on the beach. The freshwater spring that welled up from the seabed was an interesting feature, easily identifiable by the difference in water color and surface ripples. Corfu, our next and final stop in Greece, was considered to be the country’s most beautiful island. We anchored near the old Venetian Fortress with its moat in use today as a small boat harbor and enjoyed refreshments from a cliff top bar overlooking Interlude joined in the bay below by some pretty upscale yachts. We walked across Old Town thru narrow streets admiring the stunning architecture to the new port where cruise ships and ferries dock. Here we found the port police for our outward clearance. This time instead of © Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 9 of 13 the black clad Sirens of Symi in jackboots, the Kirkes of Corfu female port police wore all white uniforms with epaulets, tight pants, braided ponytails and high heels giving us the impression that in Greece it’s a man’s world when it comes to hiring. Customs and immigration were in the new terminal building further down the wharf and within an hour, without spending a Euro cent, we were checked out of Greece. We negotiated €25 an hour for a taxi (one driver wanted twice as much) to take us to the 'Lidl' Supermarket further down the street for a few cases of pleasantly drinkable white wine we had dubbed 'two buck Nik' and then back across town to our dinghy. The anchorage and harbor were filling up with mega-yachts, including a big motor palace registered in Bikini, Marshall Islands, apparently the new Cayman Islands to hide assets from the ex or other interested parties. With no officials breathing down our necks after clearing out of the country we took one last walk ashore in Greece with a hike around the Old Fortress with its winding path up to the lighthouse treating us to a spectacular view of the city. A secret passage thru a tunnel on the right coming down led to the sailing club harbor and music college. The Church of St. George, an impressive neoclassical structure also located within the Old Fortress walls was worth a look inside to see the paintings of George slaying dragons. The Venetians ruled Corfu from 1386 to 1797 with the island acting as a military base on the Adriatic coast to safeguard trade with the eastern Med. The residual Venetian architecture, fortresses and its comparatively verdant landscape ensure Corfu remains a popular tourist destination. With many more countries to see in the Med in one season, we hoisted anchor June 9 for a 24-hour passage to Montenegro. Many Med cruisers rave about Greece and we can now say for good reason. The people were helpful and most spoke English, produce was excellent and plentiful, and the anchorages along our route, though not always all weather, were conducive to life on the hook. We spent 47 days, traveled 910 miles, including 90 hours of motoring, with no overnight passages. Sailing around the Peloponnisos may have been more challenging than using the Corinth Canal, but it rewarded us with places less visited. On the other hand, variably enforced regulations, taxes and fees that for Interlude could have amounted to tens of thousands of dollars prevented us from spending more time with Interlude in Greece. In our opinion, the economic woes of Greece will not be solved by increased tourist taxes, more taxes for its own people, or by austerity measures but by cracking down on corruption, a black market economy and actually enforcing some reasonable tax laws. In hindsight, some of the four months we spent in Turkey last year may have been better used seeing more of this relaxed, quiet, historically significant and call to prayer, disco, and gulet free country had we been assured of reasonable clearance fees. Off the beaten track, Greece has much to offer in natural beauty and friendly people. We encourage you to visit this unique country and take the road less traveled. We look forward to hearing from you and tales from your corner of the world. Please send a text email (no pictures or other attachments please) to us aboard Interlude at firstname.lastname@example.org Longer emails with attachments can be sent to email@example.com for us to retrieve when we have a good WiFi connection in port. Please view our website www.sailinginterlude.com for our whereabouts, sailing schedule and past Reports. For details pertaining to cruising please see the Cruiser Notes which follow. Love, Kurt & Katie © Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 10 of 13 Cruiser Notes The scope and method of our Greek cruise was influenced by a time constraint of exiting the Med by the end of the season and the work involved for us to tie a vessel the size of Interlude, a Deerfoot 74, to shore or moor her in a harbor (we prefer to anchor out). We concentrated on areas of Greece infrequently visited by charter yachts and that have proper anchorages (not tiny inner harbors). A variably enforced exorbitant new tax also had us trying to limit our time in Greece to less than 40 days. We did not cruise the islands of the Aegean, many of which we sailed right past last season while cruising Turkey’s west coast. The expense of the Corinth Canal and the riots in Athens were considerations. We did some nice spring cruising starting April 23, but did get a bit of a blow mid-May. Mid-May seems to be a good time to start cruising and many European Med-cruisers prefer spring and fall, avoiding summer with its oppressive heat and dreaded Meltemi winds. Our sightseeing itinerary was dictated by our route, proximity of the sight to the coast and safety of the anchorage (see Table). We tend to cruise and see places that are easy to access by yacht or conversely, are difficult to stay at or get to by conventional travel. Leaving Finike, Turkey we cleared in at Symi which was representative of a Dodecanese island but with good anchorages. Inward clearance was all on the waterfront in the following order: Port Police (€15 - possibly an error with the correct amount being €15 per meter LOA.), Passport Police, Customs (€30 for Transit Log), Port Police (again, to stamp the Transit Log). However, they did not want to clear in a British yacht and directed them to Kos or Rhodes. This had to do their inability to issue a Dekpa or Traffic Document in Symi to an EU vessel. Another difference in bureaucratic processing is that a non-EU vessel is allowed only 30 days until VAT is due when owned by an EU citizen (we got 18 months). Clearance regulations, taxes and fees in Greece change frequently and are variably enforced so check http://www.noonsite.com/text/Countries/Greece to see what you might be subject to at your port of call. 1. & 4. Port Police 2. Passport Police 3. Customs The consensus among the many Med cruisers we spoke with last year was not to seek out the Harbor Masters or Port Police if you are anchored outside a harbor. To be totally correct the local authority should stamp the Transit Log in and out in each port. We managed to cruise thru Greece without getting any stamps other than in and out in Symi and in and out (at the same time) in Corfu. Because we always anchored out, we had no harbor fees. The Port Police at Preveza are rumored to be enforcing an exorbitant new cruising tax. Outward clearance at Corfu was easy: Taxi, dinghy or walk to the Port Authority building near the wharf where ships and ferries dock and see the Port Police; walk 200m west to the new port terminal for Immigration and Customs. No fees and no mention of our going slightly over the 40-day limit for the new cruising tax (this would have cost us €5,200). © Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 11 of 13 Olympia Radio on VHF Channel 16 gave a securite broadcast with a list of channels for the subsequent forecasts for the entire Med east of Sicily divided into regions (see Greek Waters Pilot for the region names and a diagram). We also used GRIB files and buoyweather but not weather fax or Navtex. Be sure to convert your Turkish Lira to Euros before leaving Turkey because we had a hard time and got some dirty looks trying to convert them in Greece. A moneychanger in Hania, Crete finally did but at a poor rate. Cosmote or Vodaphone SIM cards are easily purchased and registered (you will need a passport). We found well-stocked chandleries in Hania, Crete and Nidri, Levkas. Fuel was €1.449 per liter at the Levkas Marina fuel dock (open seven days 0815 to 2000, tel: +30 264 502 5038). We Med moored to the south side of the concrete wharf to avoid being pinned on the north side by the prevailing wind. Only the north side has fendering however. The canal bridge opens on the hour during the day. We don’t know how serious the authorities are about the restricted areas around Crete particularly near the NATO base at Souda bay but we read our charts (CMap and Imray) carefully and avoided them. Submarine training, mine laying, target practice, security, etc. is nothing to take lightly. Charts can be off (i.e. Potamos, Khalki 1/8 nm east and depths at Amorphos, Karpathos are much greater than shown allowing anchoring much closer in the NE cove). Some cruisers we spoke with highly recommended Ay Nicolaos Marina, Crete for wintering over. Said to have better weather, protection and berth rates than Finike, it does fill up fast so make your reservations at least six months in advance. We inspected the facilities and they appeared adequate and set in a very nice town. The adventurous could even winter on the hook in Spinalonga Lagoon, Crete and/or in the Ormos Vlikho, Levkas area. To hike the Samaria Gorge from Souda, Crete we dinghied ashore to the small boat harbor, caught the 0630 local bus at the INKA supermarket to the Agora (municipal market) in Hania, walked a few blocks to the central bus station to catch the 0730 bus (get round trip ticket inside the station €13 pp) to Omanos/Samaria (€5 pp entrance), hiked 8.4 miles in six hours mostly downhill thru the Gorge to Roumeli (show ticket on exit), caught the 1730 ferry (buy tickets right away at kiosk in town €8.50 pp) to Stakion, used the bus ticket to catch the 1840 (last bus) back to Hania and then the local bus back to Souda by 2030. To see ancient Olympia from Katakolon, take the 45-minute train ride directly there and back (pay fare on board €3 pp round trip). The last train arrives back in Katakolon at 1630. We had no cruise ships on Sunday when the many restaurants were serving mostly local families. Cruising Guide: Tours from Elounda (Spinalonga Lagoon), Crete: Greek Waters Pilot tenth edition Olous Travel Rod Heikell Tel: +30 28410 41324 Imray 2007 with revisions online at email: firstname.lastname@example.org www.imray.com www.olous-travel.gr Safari Club Crete Marina of Aghios Nikolaos Tel: +30 28970 32666 Crete, Greece Mob: +30 69784 85660 Tel.: +30 28410 82384 - 5 Free Tel: 800 111 2222 e-mail:email@example.com email: firstname.lastname@example.org www.marinaofagiosnikolaos.gr/ www.safariclub.gr © Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 12 of 13 CRUISER SUMMARY LONGITUDE E. shore tie for us) PROTECTION ANCHORAGE ENTRY PORT (swing on hook LATITUDE N. GOVERNM’T or marina, no HOLDING NATURE PEOPLE SIGHTS DEPTH DATE APR Limin 36°09.05’ 29°36.04’ 40 ft GOOD GOOD NO NA GOOD NA Visa run with ferry from 23 Mandraki, Kas but no yacht clearance. 2010 Nisos Did not go ashore. Kastellorizon Pretty bay. 24 Pethi, 36°36.84’ 27°51.48’ 55 ft FAIR GOOD NO NA GOOD NICE Nice walk over the hill to Nisos Symi Symi town. 26 Ormos 36°37.17’ 27°50.34’ 130 ft FAIR GOOD YES NICE GOOD NICE Adjacent to Symi town. Kharani, where yacht can Med moor Nisos Symi where directed with assist. No Dekpa for EU yachts. 26 Pethi, 36°36.87’ 27°51.45’ 50 ft FAIR GOOD NO NA GOOD NICE Nice walk over the hill to Nisos Symi Symi town. 29 Ormos 36°13.19’ 27°36.27’ 24 ft GOOD GOOD NO NA GOOD NA Church with graveyard, Potamos, Taverna, beach, walk to Nisos Khalki town (we stayed aboard). MAY Ormos 35°28.63’ 27°12.11’ 35 ft GOOD GOOD NO NA GOOD NICE Dinghy jetty near chapel. 1 Amorphos, Tavernas, long walk to N. Karpathos Pighadia town. 3 Ormos 35°20.74’ 26°52.33’ 25 ft EXCL GOOD NO NONE EXCL NONE Dramatic cliffs, caves, Khelatronas, beach Nisos Kasos 4 Spinalonga 35°16.70’ 25°44.35’ 25 ft EXCL EXCL NO NA GOOD NICE Venetian Fort, bus to Ayios Lagoon, (Ayios Nikolaos, tours to: Iraklion, Crete Nikolaos) Knossos, Lasithi Plateau, Dikteon (Zeus) Cave. 10 Ormos 35°26.33’ 25°13.24’ 30 ft GOOD GOOD NO NONE EXCL NA Cliffs, beach, cave, Meseos, many birds Nisos Dhia 11 Ormos 35°29.85’ 24°03.92’ 15 ft GOOD GOOD YES NA FAIR NICE Dinghy to small boat Souda, harbor (hoist & rowing Crete club). Walk to fish markets, restaurants, INKA supermarket (bus stop). Bus to Hania for tours to Samaria Gorge, chandlery, etc. Sail to Hania for Med moor. 15 Diakofti Port, 36°16.00’ 23°04.57’ 22 ft GOOD FAIR NO NA FAIR NA Better to anchor on the N. Kithera other (SE) side of Makronisos if WNW to N wind. 15 Makronisos, 36°15.83’ 23°05.07’ 30 ft GOOD GOOD NO NA GOOD NA Wreck of the Nordland N. Kithera 17 Ormos Levki 36°28.75’ 22°59.12’ 35 ft GOOD GOOD NO NA GOOD NA Beach Nisos Elaphonisos 18 Porto Kayio 36°25.97’ 22°29.10’ 30 ft GOOD GOOD NO NA EXCL NA Mountains, stone tower (gusty) houses and monastery, taverna, beach. Less gusty near jetty. 20 Ormos 36°57.28’ 21°40.35’ 60 ft GOOD GOOD YES NA EXCL NICE Walk to Palaio Castle & Navarinou (Pilos) Nestor’s Cave, beach, (Pilos) taverna. Dinghy or sail to Pilos to tour Venetian Fort & historical sights. 22 Katakolon 37°39.04’ 21°19.42’ 16 ft GOOD GOOD YES NA GOOD NICE Cruise ships. Dinghy to yacht quay, tavernas, beach, train to ancient Olympia. Walk road or beach 1 km to two supermarkets (near train tracks). 25 Limin Vathi, 38°22.04’ 20°43.04’ 25 ft GOOD GOOD YES NA GOOD NICE Quaint town, museums, Nisos Ithika restaurants, walking tours. Anchor clear of ferry wharf/turning basin © Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun 13 of 13 LONGITUDE E. shore tie for us) PROTECTION ANCHORAGE ENTRY PORT (swing on hook LATITUDE N. GOVERNM’T or marina, no HOLDING NATURE PEOPLE SIGHTS DEPTH DATE 27 Ormos 38°40.38’ 20°47.20 60 ft GOOD GOOD NO NA EXCL NA Sheep on the hillsides, few Kapali, houses. Charter yachts. N. Menganisi 31 Ormos 38°41.30’ 20°42.46’ 22 ft EXCL GOOD NO NA FAIR NICE Yacht Club. Vlikho, (mud) Dinghy to Nidri for Nisos Levkas tavernas, chandleries, bus to Levkada. Charter yachts. JUN Tranquil Bay 38°42.09’ 20°42.68’ 30 ft GOOD GOOD NO NA FAIR NICE Dinghy to Nidri for 2 (Nidri) tavernas, chandleries, bus Nisos Levkas to Levkada. Charter yachts, crowded. 5 Ormos Ayiou 39°16.59’ 20°28.01’ 42 ft FAIR GOOD NO NONE EXCL NA Beaches, cliffs, underwater Ioannou, fresh water spring (near Parga) 6 Ormos 39°37.03’ 19°55.52’ 22 ft GOOD FAIR YES NICE GOOD NICE Venetian forts, Garitsas, in sandy ferry (Corfu) in new architecture, museums, Nisos Corfu patches wakes terminal harbors, restaurants, walk building or taxi to port for clearance, taxi to supermarkets 10 Kotor, 42°25.48’ 18°46.12’ 40 ft GOOD GOOD YES NICE EXCL NICE Fjord topography, Montenegro Medieval Old Town, walls, churches castles, hikes, restaurants, shops, beach, bar.