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Adventures of Kurt & Katie Braun while sailing the world aboard their yacht 'Interlude'.

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									© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                                                       1 of 13

                                                            Interlude Report 30

                                                       Aegean Sea              ATLANTIC
          Venetian Forts
                   Ayiou Ioannou
  Ionian Sea       (Parga)                                                                                    GREECE

       Levkas                                                                                          MED
                               Corinth Canal      Athens
                                                                                                   AFRICA                RED
                                PELOPONNISOS                    GREECE
                    (Pilos)            Kayio     Elafonisos                                   Symi
                                       Kithera                                                       RHODES
                                                                Sea of Crete
                                                  Souda           Dhia          Kasos
                                                               Iraklion                        Karpathos
                                                  Samaria   Knossos CRETE
                                                  Gorge                   Spinalonga


Our six weeks in Greece were spent avoiding urban areas on the mainland where about two-thirds of the
population lived possibly making our generalized impressions skewed toward island life. With a civilization
dating back thousands of years that has contributed so much to western language, philosophy and the arts,
Greeks love everything Greek, including their laid-back attitude. Hardworking, yet relaxed to a level one might
view as indifferent, they value their lifestyle with its agrarian roots and Greek Orthodox traditions. Land and
extended families are prized along with freedom even to the extent that regulations and laws lack enforcement.
Whether or not a building was well built, debris was dealt with properly or the country emerges from
overhanging debt was of little concern to the people we meet who were busy enjoying time with family,
neighbors and friends barbequing, fishing, or making wine, cheese and olive oil. Don’t ask a Greek to change,
they are enjoying life too much to believe it can get a lot better and once you spend time in Greece, you may
very well agree.

We arrived in Greece on April 23, 2010 after casting off the dock lines at Finike, Turkey, Interlude’s winter
berth. A few hours later, we found ourselves anchored in turquoise blue waters off the Greek island of
Kastellorizon. Not a port of entry, with the Greek coast guard milling about, we tried to blend in by flying a
Greek courtesy flag and did not go ashore. Kastellorizon is the easternmost outpost of Greece about a mile off
the Turkish coast and 70 miles East of Rhodes. There are only about 300 inhabitants - down from around
10,000 a hundred years ago when it was a bustling port/metropolis during the age of sail. With its shipping
companies failing to adopt steam, occupations during WWI & II and a British fuel depot blowing up half the
town, the place is now a shell of what it once was.
© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                                 2 of 13
After a nice night at anchor, with a fireworks display (commemorating the Brits accidentally blowing up the
town?) we departed Kastellorizon at dawn. We bypassed the island of Rhodes having toured its Old Town last
year on a ferry trip from Marmaris, Turkey (see our Turkey Report). That evening we anchored in a small
sheltered bay off the quiet village of Pethi on Nisos Symi, another Greek island. Being Sunday, we remained
quarantined aboard Interlude with entrance formalities planned for Monday. Using our hookah hoses, we dove
under the boat to inspect and clean the bottom. The water wasn't too cold in 7mm hooded wetsuits but we did
have a bit of a reef to scrub off after six months in a marina.

                                                             We had calm conditions while we re-anchored
                                                             Interlude outside the quaint harbor and visited the
                                                             officials ashore. With some trepidation based on
                                                             reports of variably enforced regulations, taxes and
                                                             fees, we proceeded to complete our check-in with
                                                             minimal hassle. The three attractive female Port
                                                             Police officers who assisted with our clearance in
                                                             their tightly fitting black uniforms were Sirens right
                                                             out of Homer's Odyssey. Noting the lack of ink on
                                                             our passport entry stamp, we asked the Passport
                                                             Police officer about a computer database record of
                                                             our entering the European Union, he replied, “You
                                                             are in Greece, think like a Greek, and do not worry
                                                             about formalities.” The Customs officer said
                                                             Interlude was good for six months with no additional
fees. A British couple also trying to clear in did not fare as well however and were sent off to the larger ports of
Kos or Rhodes where more permits could be issued. Visiting the various offices scattered along the entire
waterfront (luckily it was a small harbor), we became quite familiar with all the shops and bought a Greek SIM
card for our cell phone and new sun hats. After lunch, it was time to move Interlude back to our more secure
anchorage in Pethi and we invited the British cruisers aboard for some medicinal cocktails. Our US registered
yacht, in this case, had an easier time entering the EU than an EU registered yacht! A few restful days later, we
took the bus back to town to visit the Port Police Sirens to get an exit stamp in our transit log. Walking back
over the hill, with a load of fresh fruit and veggies, we admired all the little Med villas along the way.
Construction workers were jack hammering away at the rocky ground (without any safety gear) to carve out a
spot for the next villa.

Leaving Symi, we had a nice upwind sail in 8-18 knots of breeze tacking around islands and reefs to the island
of Khalki just west of Rhodes. The charts, based on hundred-year-old surveys, rendered our GPS ineffectual so
we resorted to good old-fashioned eyeball navigation. As we entered the anchorage, the sun was shining thru
clear water to the sandy bottom making it a lovely
turquoise blue. Welcoming us to this quiet spot were a
few bathers testing the chilly April Aegean off the
beach, a small white and blue church with attached
graveyard on a hill, a sleepy taverna awaiting tourist
season, a menagerie of animal sounds including
donkeys, goats, dogs and roosters and the occasional
weathered old Greek fishermen in his small but sturdy

With an early start the next morning, we had a great
fifty-mile sail to Nisos Karpathos. Another elderly
Greek angler came by to welcome us just as we finished
anchoring. He had lived in Chicago for many years and
returned to Karpathos to retire and live out his days
© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                                        3 of 13
receiving two pensions. With all of Greece on strike and rioting in Athens to protest the recent economic belt
tightening, seeing the country by yacht was proving to be advantageous. One example of the protested reforms
was increasing the age to be eligible for a state pension from 61 to 63. Did the protestors think that the Germans
should extend their working age from 67 to 69 so that the Greeks could enjoy an earlier retirement? We enjoyed
a very pleasant hike on Karpathos and meet Andy, another pensioner who has come back to retire on the island
of his birth. Andy had owned and operated restaurants in four US States and had a daughter living in Maryland.
Eighty-four years old, Andy collected US and Greek Social Security payments and spent his days fishing. He
told us of the days of his youth when he would row out with his father to catch dozens of big fish, squid and
octopus right there in the bay. Now he was lucky to catch a few small fry. His comments confirmed our
observations that the Med appears to be over fished.

Next, we sailed to the neighboring island of Kasos and anchored in an uninhabited cove surrounded by high
crumbling cliffs with a small beach at the head. The dramatically uplifted and twisted layers of rock and many
caves made this anchorage our naturally scenic favorite in Greece.

                                                            A marathon sail in light wind across what the cruising
                                                            guide calls 'an angry stretch of sea' saw us to
                                                            Spinalonga Lagoon on Crete. A medieval fortress
                                                            guarded the narrow entrance to the shallow three-mile
                                                            long lagoon, an excellent natural harbor. There were
                                                            only a few other yachts scattered around the shores of
                                                            the lagoon and we found a spot in a cove on the east
                                                            side with the town of Elounda within dinghy range.
                                                            Spinalonga Lagoon was an excellent place to leave
                                                            Interlude while we explored eastern Crete. Elounda

had everything we needed with its beach, tavernas (we
had an excellent meal at one built on a jetty in the
harbor), two grocery stores (finally some real luncheon
meats and bacon), rental cars, bus stop and travel
agencies. We stocked up ten liters of the local low
acidity (0.3) olive oil – they say the best Italian olive
oil is actually a blend of Cretan and Italian oils. The
larger town of Agios Nikolaos a short bus ride away

                                                            was also worth visiting with its ‘bottomless lake’ and
                                                            upscale shops. Making a rare connection with a
                                                            musically inclined Dutch couple cruising the Med
                                                            while living aboard their catamaran Anegada, we
                                                            enjoyed an evening of wine and song.

                                                            We took the ‘Land Rover Great Adventure’ off road
                                                            tour thru the Crete countryside to the Lassithi Valley
                                                            to see authentic villages, shepherd's dwellings and
                                                            Zeus's Cave. The latter is the mythical sight where he
                                                            was born and hidden by his mother Rhea to keep his
                                                            father from eating him - unlike his eleven brothers and
© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                                        4 of 13
                                                           sisters. When Zeus killed his father, his siblings were
                                                           resurrected to make up the twelve god Greek
                                                           pantheon. There were several big Land Rovers in our
                                                           convoy and all the British drivers were comedians
                                                           making for a fun trip (highly recommended). Our
                                                           driver, who had moved to Crete a few years ago and
                                                           lived in a small village, explained much about village
                                                           life: Greek culture is matriarchal. Women tend to the
                                                           finances and children, make all the important family
                                                           decisions and are responsible for all domestic chores
                                                           even outside of the home. For example, wives
                                                           frequently accompany their husbands to the local
                                                           watering hole and partake in drinking but are expected
                                                           to make sure their husband’s glass never goes empty.
                                                           Greek parents provide a home for their children when
they get married – typically by constructing a building next door or adding a floor above. Like a college savings
account, construction is completed piecemeal as funds are available. Another reason for the prevalence of
partially built structures was that property taxes are increased only on completion and occupancy permits are
not enforced.

Along the roadsides appeared to be mailboxes resembling
churches. Our guide explained they were shrines marking the
location of a death or injury containing a picture of the deceased
and items they may need in the afterlife. Another religious
custom was the construction of numerous small chapels in the
hills or other remote locations by persons nearing the end of
their lives in an attempt at absolution. They are dedicated to a
particular saint and persons named after that saint traditionally
crawl on their knees to the chapel on their saint’s day and have
a family party there (birthdays are not celebrated). Children are
named after the saints their grandparents were named after,
hence all the Nickis, Dimitris and Yannis we met.

                                                        The next day we took a more sedate tour by bus to
                                                        Iraklion and the nearby 4000-year-old site of the
                                                        Minoan palace of Knossos. The eruption of Thira
                                                        (Santorini), a volcanic island about 70 miles to the
                                                        north, probably destroyed the palace and the rest of the
                                                        Minoan civilization on Crete. Knossos was excavated
                                                        and partially reconstructed by Sir Arthur Evans starting
                                                        in 1900 and today tourists will see mostly Sir Evans’
                                                        interpretation of the original structure.

                                                         An upwind sail in light winds along the north coast of
                                                         Crete found us progressing only halfway to our
                                                         destination so we anchored in a tiny cove on the small
                                                         island of Dhia. The rocky cliffs, beach, profusion of
birds and a cave with a lean-to, chair and giant crucifix made for interesting surroundings. With no wind the
next morning, we motored seven hours in glassy flat calm to Souda Bay to be greeted by 18 knots of local
breeze in the afternoon, frustrating the cook’s plan of barbequing. Souda, a NATO Navy Base, had all kinds of
restricted areas including firing practice, submarine and mine training. We meet Paul, an American cruiser who
swallowed the hook and worked at the base for the past 15 years. He kept his yacht on a mooring off the beach
© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                                  5 of 13
near where we anchored Interlude. Ours were the only two yachts in the bay. A ten-minute bus ride across the
isthmus from Souda was Hania, a big town with all the tourist trappings. We finally managed to get rid of our
remaining Turkish lira at an independent currency exchange, something we had been trying to do for weeks at
various banks. In Hania, we meet a Brit who had been coming to Crete on holiday with his wife for twenty
years and was quite helpful in showing us options for a trip to the Samaria Gorge. In the end, we decided to
organize the excursion ourselves instead of using one of the local tour companies.

The hike down into and through the Samaria Gorge was spectacular with thousand foot high sheer cliffs
towering above the narrow riverbed. Good footwear was essential for the eight and a half mile six hour hike
dropping four thousand feet to sea level. The bus ride to the trailhead, ferry ride from the end of the trek at
Roumeli to Stakion and bus back to Hania were all very scenic passing small farming towns, orchards,
vineyards and remote fishing villages accessible only by water.

We had two ways to get to Croatia from Turkey via Greece: Thru the Corinth canal or around the Peloponnisos
(the bottom of mainland Greece). The canal may be more direct and the weather around the peninsula can be
nasty (locals call it the Cape Horn of the Med) but we wanted to see Crete which turned out to be a highlight of
our Greek cruise. With gale warnings forecast on ‘Olympia Radio’, we got an early start at sunrise knowing that
we should get to a secure anchorage no later than 1600. The sky was an ominous hazy grey and fickle wind
made for difficult sailing especially with a time constraint so we ended up motoring seven of the ten hours it
took to reach what we thought would be a secure anchorage for the forecasted westerly winds. We anchored in
flat calm at 1550 as a light rain started to fall and the front appeared to be approaching. By 1700 we had 20
knots and whitecaps in the harbor with wind out of the northwest. By the time we finished dinner at 1830 we
had four-foot chop and 35 knots putting us on lee shore. We had plenty of daylight to move around to our 'Plan
© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                                       6 of 13
B' anchorage on the other side of the small island of
Makronisos that formed the harbor. Fifteen minutes
later, full of excitement from re-anchoring in 40 knots,
we were in a much-improved situation. The wrecked
bow of the freighter Nordland ominously looming over
a nearby low island made a fitting memorial during
these weather conditions.

After a couple of windy days on Kithera with gusts up
to 48 knots and continued gale warnings, we decided to
‘grunt up and get on with it’ and continue westward around the ‘horn’ by moving over to the mainland. The
Peloponnisos has three capes, or what we came to call ‘the prongs of Poseidon’s trident’, and each presented us
with a challenging day of sailing. The anchorages however were secure and we especially liked Porto Kayio (on
the middle ‘prong’) with tall cliffs, terraced fields, several large castle-like stone homes and a monastery. The
Venetians named the bay Porto Quaglio (Quaglio = Kayio?) after all the quail that was caught, salted and
exported from here. It was, and remains, a convenient and safe harbor for boats making their way around this
challenging coastline.

                                                        We took advantage of calm conditions to motor sixty
                                                        miles to the large, almost completely enclosed, historic
                                                        bay of Ormos Navarinou. In 1827, against the odds,
                                                        Admiral Codrington's 26-ship fleet sailed into the bay
                                                        with band playing on deck and blasted the 89-ship
                                                        Turko-Egyptian armada to win Greece its
                                                        independence. Leaving Interlude at anchor off a nice
                                                        sandy beach, we set off to find what was marked on our
                                                        chart as ‘Nestor's Cave’. A light rain began falling as
                                                        we hiked up the promontory thru a juniper forest with
                                                        webs strung by giant spiders across a trail that led to a
                                                        dilapidated castle. Officially signed CLOSED and
                                                        DANGEROUS, we did not dally or make any noise as
                                                        we entered the crumbling gate for fear of collapsing the
                                                        12th century stonework. We backtracked in the rain
                                                        thru the spiders to a lagoon trail that led up to the cave,
                                                        by which time the skies had cleared and we had no need
                                                        for shelter. Nestor's Cave was mostly one big room with
                                                        a large opening, named for a Mycenaean King of the

After a fifty-mile motor up the west coast, we
anchored at Katakolon with the hopes of visiting
ancient Olympia. A small passenger train went
directly from the harbor to the site of the original
quadrennial games that date back to 776 BC. The
museum was first class with a good overall depiction
of the site and many artifacts including one of the
largest exhibited collections of Roman armor as well
© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                                    7 of 13

as displays of cauldrons and votive offering figurines. The architectural statuary from the temple of Zeus was
very impressive. The actual grounds are not that well preserved or reconstructed but the overall scale of the
ruins and the visual aids at the museum make Olympia one of our favorite Greek sights. Katie even ran a lap in
the original ancient Olympic Stadium. The long beach at Katakolon had several tavernas in addition to the many
in town servicing the cruise ships that frequent this port. We had a fine fresh seafood meal near the shore with
an occasional car or scooter driving by on the sand.

Leaving four cruise ships at the dock in Katakolon, we motored another fifty miles to what is clamed be the
Ithika of Homer's Odyssey with many of the locations found in the Odyssey touted: Odysseus' Palace, Cave of
the Nymphs, Eumaeus' pig sty, etc. However, the islands of Levkos and Cephalonia have also laid claim to the
homeland of the hero in this ancient novel. We visited a small archeological museum and found a nice folk
                                                      museum down an alley marked with a statue of
                                                      Poseidon where we also had some great Greek seafood
                                                      at the Poseidon restaurant. As is realized in the telling
                                                      of the Odyssey, our journey to Ithika was more
                                                      important than the actual arrival and conclusion, a
                                                      philosophy that we extend to life in general.

                                                       After a pleasant sail in light wind to what the cruising
                                                       guide called a 'Rorschach blob of an island', Nisos
                                                       Meganisi, we managed to find a spot amongst the now
                                                       numerous charter yachts (including some who used the
                                                       anchorage as a racecourse) in a small bay on the well-
                                                       indented coastline. We had a nice swim in the warm
                                                       clear water - our first of the season without a wetsuit.
                                                       The small, secluded cove was quite pretty and we were
© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                               8 of 13
ahead of our planned schedule so we decided to stay a few days.
We scrubbed scum off the waterline, washed the deck, deployed
all awnings, BBQ and officially 'dug in'. Grilled chicken &
veggies, a game of Fives dominos, a full moon and a mirror calm
anchorage topped off a perfect day of cruising. We enjoyed the
next eight nights of cushy cruising, motoring no further than a few
miles in the Nidri/Meganisi area. Nidri was a pleasant town with a
low-key mixture of locals, charterers, tourists and budget
travelers. Some British cruisers familiar with the area directed us
to take the bus to the nearby city of Levkada where a local auto
parts store custom made some new oil filter hoses for our main
engine. Possibly contributing to government debt, the public buses
in Greece were very nicely appointed full size Mercedes or Volvo coaches even for what we would consider a
short local run. Some of them even had scrolling displays showing upcoming stops or televisions.

We reluctantly left Nidri to motor up the narrow canal separating Nisos Levkas from the mainland to take on
300 gallons of diesel at the Levkas Marina Fuel Station. No sooner did we start the juice flowing into Interlude's
veins than Zeus made his presence known for the first time in our six weeks in Greece with a powerful display
of lightening and torrential rain. Captain Kurt ran around shutting down electronics and Katie stood double duty
as fuel filler and lightning rod in her rain jacket and brollie. At €1.449 a liter ($6.61 US/gallon) the price was
less than Turkey but not what we had gotten used to paying in Asia or the U.S. Passing the rotating pontoon
bridge with four other yachts in the narrow channel was exciting. On the hour, the floating bridge raises ramps
on either end and turns ninety degrees to let boats complete the transit of the canal. Once back in open water we
motored in calm wind and clearing skies another four hours to anchor at Ormos Ayiou Ianno, a small bay on the
mainland where we were the only yacht with just a day taverna and a few sun seekers on the beach. The
freshwater spring that welled up from the seabed was an
interesting feature, easily identifiable by the difference in
water color and surface ripples.

Corfu, our next and final stop in Greece, was considered to
be the country’s most beautiful island. We anchored near the
old Venetian Fortress with its moat in use today as a small
boat harbor and enjoyed refreshments from a cliff top bar
overlooking Interlude joined in the bay below by some
pretty upscale yachts. We walked across Old Town thru
narrow streets admiring the stunning architecture to the new
port where cruise ships and ferries dock. Here we found the
port police for our outward clearance. This time instead of
© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                                         9 of 13
                                                    the black clad Sirens of Symi in jackboots, the Kirkes of
                                                    Corfu female port police wore all white uniforms with
                                                    epaulets, tight pants, braided ponytails and high heels giving
                                                    us the impression that in Greece it’s a man’s world when it
                                                    comes to hiring. Customs and immigration were in the new
                                                    terminal building further down the wharf and within an hour,
                                                    without spending a Euro cent, we were checked out of
                                                    Greece. We negotiated €25 an hour for a taxi (one driver
                                                    wanted twice as much) to take us to the 'Lidl' Supermarket
                                                    further down the street for a few cases of pleasantly
                                                    drinkable white wine we had dubbed 'two buck Nik' and then
                                                    back across town to our dinghy. The anchorage and harbor
                                                    were filling up with mega-yachts, including a big motor
                                                    palace registered in Bikini, Marshall Islands, apparently the
new Cayman Islands to hide assets from the ex or other interested parties. With no officials breathing down our
necks after clearing out of the country we took one last walk ashore in Greece with a hike around the Old
Fortress with its winding path up to the lighthouse treating us to a spectacular view of the city. A secret passage
thru a tunnel on the right coming down led to the sailing
club harbor and music college. The Church of St. George,
an impressive neoclassical structure also located within the
Old Fortress walls was worth a look inside to see the
paintings of George slaying dragons. The Venetians ruled
Corfu from 1386 to 1797 with the island acting as a military
base on the Adriatic coast to safeguard trade with the eastern
Med. The residual Venetian architecture, fortresses and its
comparatively verdant landscape ensure Corfu remains a
popular tourist destination.

With many more countries to see in the Med in one season, we hoisted anchor June 9 for a 24-hour passage to
Montenegro. Many Med cruisers rave about Greece and we can now say for good reason. The people were
helpful and most spoke English, produce was excellent and plentiful, and the anchorages along our route,
though not always all weather, were conducive to life on the hook. We spent 47 days, traveled 910 miles,
including 90 hours of motoring, with no overnight passages. Sailing around the Peloponnisos may have been
more challenging than using the Corinth Canal, but it rewarded us with places less visited. On the other hand,
variably enforced regulations, taxes and fees that for Interlude could have amounted to tens of thousands of
dollars prevented us from spending more time with Interlude in Greece. In our opinion, the economic woes of
Greece will not be solved by increased tourist taxes, more taxes for its own people, or by austerity measures but
by cracking down on corruption, a black market economy and actually enforcing some reasonable tax laws. In
hindsight, some of the four months we spent in Turkey last year may have been better used seeing more of this
relaxed, quiet, historically significant and call to prayer, disco, and gulet free country had we been assured of
reasonable clearance fees. Off the beaten track, Greece has much to offer in natural beauty and friendly people.
We encourage you to visit this unique country and take the road less traveled.

We look forward to hearing from you and tales from your corner of the world. Please send a text email (no
pictures or other attachments please) to us aboard Interlude at Longer emails with
attachments can be sent to for us to retrieve when we have a good WiFi
connection in port. Please view our website for our whereabouts, sailing schedule
and past Reports. For details pertaining to cruising please see the Cruiser Notes which follow.

Kurt & Katie
© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                                      10 of 13
                                                  Cruiser Notes
The scope and method of our Greek cruise was influenced by a time constraint of exiting the Med by the end of
the season and the work involved for us to tie a vessel the size of Interlude, a Deerfoot 74, to shore or moor her
in a harbor (we prefer to anchor out). We concentrated on areas of Greece infrequently visited by charter yachts
and that have proper anchorages (not tiny inner harbors). A variably enforced exorbitant new tax also had us
trying to limit our time in Greece to less than 40 days. We did not cruise the islands of the Aegean, many of
which we sailed right past last season while cruising Turkey’s west coast. The expense of the Corinth Canal and
the riots in Athens were considerations. We did some nice spring cruising starting April 23, but did get a bit of a
blow mid-May. Mid-May seems to be a good time to start cruising and many European Med-cruisers prefer
spring and fall, avoiding summer with its oppressive heat and dreaded Meltemi winds. Our sightseeing itinerary
was dictated by our route, proximity of the sight to the coast and safety of the anchorage (see Table). We tend to
cruise and see places that are easy to access by yacht or conversely, are difficult to stay at or get to by
conventional travel.

Leaving Finike, Turkey we cleared in at Symi which was representative of a Dodecanese island but with good
anchorages. Inward clearance was all on the waterfront in the following order: Port Police (€15 - possibly an
error with the correct amount being €15 per meter LOA.), Passport Police, Customs (€30 for Transit Log), Port
Police (again, to stamp the Transit Log). However, they did not want to clear in a British yacht and directed
them to Kos or Rhodes. This had to do their inability to issue a Dekpa or Traffic Document in Symi to an EU
vessel. Another difference in bureaucratic processing is that a non-EU vessel is allowed only 30 days until VAT
is due when owned by an EU citizen (we got 18 months). Clearance regulations, taxes and fees in Greece
change frequently and are variably enforced so check to see
what you might be subject to at your port of call.

1. & 4. Port Police                    2. Passport Police                           3. Customs

The consensus among the many Med cruisers we spoke with last year was not to seek out the Harbor Masters or
Port Police if you are anchored outside a harbor. To be totally correct the local authority should stamp the
Transit Log in and out in each port. We managed to cruise thru
Greece without getting any stamps other than in and out in Symi and
in and out (at the same time) in Corfu. Because we always anchored
out, we had no harbor fees. The Port Police at Preveza are rumored to
be enforcing an exorbitant new cruising tax.

Outward clearance at Corfu was easy: Taxi, dinghy or walk to the
Port Authority building near the wharf where ships and ferries dock
and see the Port Police; walk 200m west to the new port terminal for
Immigration and Customs. No fees and no mention of our going
slightly over the 40-day limit for the new cruising tax (this would
have cost us €5,200).
© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                                      11 of 13
Olympia Radio on VHF Channel 16 gave a securite broadcast with a list of channels for the subsequent
forecasts for the entire Med east of Sicily divided into regions (see Greek Waters Pilot for the region names and
a diagram). We also used GRIB files and buoyweather but not weather fax or Navtex.

Be sure to convert your Turkish Lira to Euros before leaving Turkey because we had a hard time and got some
dirty looks trying to convert them in Greece. A moneychanger in Hania, Crete finally did but at a poor rate.
Cosmote or Vodaphone SIM cards are easily purchased and registered (you will need a passport). We found
well-stocked chandleries in Hania, Crete and Nidri, Levkas. Fuel was €1.449 per liter at the Levkas Marina fuel
dock (open seven days 0815 to 2000, tel: +30 264 502 5038). We Med moored to the south side of the concrete
wharf to avoid being pinned on the north side by the prevailing wind. Only the north side has fendering
however. The canal bridge opens on the hour during the day.

We don’t know how serious the authorities are about the restricted areas around Crete particularly near the
NATO base at Souda bay but we read our charts (CMap and Imray) carefully and avoided them. Submarine
training, mine laying, target practice, security, etc. is nothing to take lightly. Charts can be off (i.e. Potamos,
Khalki 1/8 nm east and depths at Amorphos, Karpathos are much greater than shown allowing anchoring much
closer in the NE cove).

Some cruisers we spoke with highly recommended Ay Nicolaos Marina, Crete for wintering over. Said to have
better weather, protection and berth rates than Finike, it does fill up fast so make your reservations at least six
months in advance. We inspected the facilities and they appeared adequate and set in a very nice town. The
adventurous could even winter on the hook in Spinalonga Lagoon, Crete and/or in the Ormos Vlikho, Levkas

To hike the Samaria Gorge from Souda, Crete we dinghied ashore to the small boat harbor, caught the 0630
local bus at the INKA supermarket to the Agora (municipal market) in Hania, walked a few blocks to the central
bus station to catch the 0730 bus (get round trip ticket inside the station €13 pp) to Omanos/Samaria (€5 pp
entrance), hiked 8.4 miles in six hours mostly downhill thru the Gorge to Roumeli (show ticket on exit), caught
the 1730 ferry (buy tickets right away at kiosk in town €8.50 pp) to Stakion, used the bus ticket to catch the
1840 (last bus) back to Hania and then the local bus back to Souda by 2030.

To see ancient Olympia from Katakolon, take the 45-minute train ride directly there and back (pay fare on
board €3 pp round trip). The last train arrives back in Katakolon at 1630. We had no cruise ships on Sunday
when the many restaurants were serving mostly local families.

Cruising Guide:                                              Tours from Elounda (Spinalonga Lagoon), Crete:
Greek Waters Pilot tenth edition                             Olous Travel
Rod Heikell                                                  Tel: +30 28410 41324
Imray    2007     with     revisions     online    at        email:                                      

                                                             Safari Club Crete
Marina of Aghios Nikolaos                                    Tel: +30 28970 32666
Crete, Greece                                                Mob: +30 69784 85660
Tel.: +30 28410 82384 - 5                                    Free Tel: 800 111 2222                                     email:                      
© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                                                                                                        12 of 13
                                                                  CRUISER SUMMARY

                                                  LONGITUDE E.
          shore tie for us)


                                                                                                        ENTRY PORT
           (swing on hook

                                 LATITUDE N.

            or marina, no





APR         Limin             36°09.05’        29°36.04’         40 ft     GOOD       GOOD             NO            NA           GOOD      NA          Visa run with ferry from
 23       Mandraki,                                                                                                                                   Kas but no yacht clearance.
2010        Nisos                                                                                                                                          Did not go ashore.
         Kastellorizon                                                                                                                                         Pretty bay.
 24         Pethi,            36°36.84’        27°51.48’         55 ft     FAIR       GOOD             NO            NA           GOOD      NICE       Nice walk over the hill to
          Nisos Symi                                                                                                                                          Symi town.
 26         Ormos             36°37.17’        27°50.34’         130 ft    FAIR       GOOD             YES           NICE         GOOD      NICE        Adjacent to Symi town.
           Kharani,                                                                                                                                   where yacht can Med moor
          Nisos Symi                                                                                                                                  where directed with assist.
                                                                                                                                                       No Dekpa for EU yachts.
 26         Pethi,            36°36.87’        27°51.45’         50 ft     FAIR       GOOD             NO            NA           GOOD      NICE       Nice walk over the hill to
         Nisos Symi                                                                                                                                           Symi town.
 29         Ormos             36°13.19’        27°36.27’         24 ft     GOOD       GOOD             NO            NA           GOOD      NA          Church with graveyard,
           Potamos,                                                                                                                                     Taverna, beach, walk to
         Nisos Khalki                                                                                                                                  town (we stayed aboard).
MAY         Ormos             35°28.63’        27°12.11’         35 ft     GOOD       GOOD             NO            NA           GOOD      NICE       Dinghy jetty near chapel.
 1        Amorphos,                                                                                                                                     Tavernas, long walk to
         N. Karpathos                                                                                                                                       Pighadia town.
  3         Ormos             35°20.74’        26°52.33’         25 ft     EXCL       GOOD             NO            NONE         EXCL      NONE         Dramatic cliffs, caves,
         Khelatronas,                                                                                                                                            beach
         Nisos Kasos
  4       Spinalonga          35°16.70’        25°44.35’         25 ft     EXCL       EXCL             NO            NA           GOOD      NICE      Venetian Fort, bus to Ayios
           Lagoon,                                                                                    (Ayios                                          Nikolaos, tours to: Iraklion,
             Crete                                                                                   Nikolaos)                                         Knossos, Lasithi Plateau,
                                                                                                                                                        Dikteon (Zeus) Cave.
 10         Ormos             35°26.33’        25°13.24’         30 ft     GOOD       GOOD             NO            NONE         EXCL      NA           Cliffs, beach, cave,
           Meseos,                                                                                                                                           many birds
          Nisos Dhia
 11         Ormos             35°29.85’        24°03.92’         15 ft     GOOD       GOOD             YES           NA           FAIR      NICE          Dinghy to small boat
           Souda,                                                                                                                                       harbor (hoist & rowing
            Crete                                                                                                                                     club). Walk to fish markets,
                                                                                                                                                           restaurants, INKA
                                                                                                                                                        supermarket (bus stop).
                                                                                                                                                        Bus to Hania for tours to
                                                                                                                                                       Samaria Gorge, chandlery,
                                                                                                                                                            etc. Sail to Hania
                                                                                                                                                             for Med moor.
 15      Diakofti Port,       36°16.00’        23°04.57’         22 ft     GOOD       FAIR             NO            NA           FAIR      NA           Better to anchor on the
          N. Kithera                                                                                                                                       other (SE) side of
                                                                                                                                                       Makronisos if WNW to N
 15      Makronisos,          36°15.83’        23°05.07’         30 ft     GOOD       GOOD             NO            NA           GOOD      NA          Wreck of the Nordland
          N. Kithera
 17      Ormos Levki          36°28.75’        22°59.12’         35 ft     GOOD       GOOD             NO            NA           GOOD      NA                   Beach
 18      Porto Kayio          36°25.97’        22°29.10’         30 ft     GOOD       GOOD             NO            NA           EXCL      NA          Mountains, stone tower
                                                                                      (gusty)                                                           houses and monastery,
                                                                                                                                                            taverna, beach.
                                                                                                                                                         Less gusty near jetty.
 20        Ormos              36°57.28’        21°40.35’         60 ft     GOOD       GOOD             YES           NA           EXCL      NICE       Walk to Palaio Castle &
          Navarinou                                                                                   (Pilos)                                            Nestor’s Cave, beach,
           (Pilos)                                                                                                                                    taverna. Dinghy or sail to
                                                                                                                                                      Pilos to tour Venetian Fort
                                                                                                                                                          & historical sights.
 22       Katakolon           37°39.04’        21°19.42’         16 ft     GOOD       GOOD             YES           NA           GOOD      NICE        Cruise ships. Dinghy to
                                                                                                                                                         yacht quay, tavernas,
                                                                                                                                                        beach, train to ancient
                                                                                                                                                        Olympia. Walk road or
                                                                                                                                                          beach 1 km to two
                                                                                                                                                       supermarkets (near train
 25      Limin Vathi,         38°22.04’        20°43.04’         25 ft     GOOD       GOOD             YES           NA           GOOD      NICE       Quaint town, museums,
         Nisos Ithika                                                                                                                                 restaurants, walking tours.
                                                                                                                                                         Anchor clear of ferry
                                                                                                                                                          wharf/turning basin
© Copyright 2010 KG Braun & KH Braun                                                                                                                                          13 of 13

                                                  LONGITUDE E.
          shore tie for us)


                                                                                                       ENTRY PORT
           (swing on hook

                                 LATITUDE N.

            or marina, no





 27         Ormos             38°40.38’        20°47.20          60 ft    GOOD         GOOD           NO              NA           EXCL      NA        Sheep on the hillsides, few
            Kapali,                                                                                                                                     houses. Charter yachts.
         N. Menganisi
 31         Ormos             38°41.30’        20°42.46’         22 ft    EXCL         GOOD           NO              NA           FAIR      NICE              Yacht Club.
            Vlikho,                                                       (mud)                                                                            Dinghy to Nidri for
         Nisos Levkas                                                                                                                                   tavernas, chandleries, bus
                                                                                                                                                       to Levkada. Charter yachts.
JUN      Tranquil Bay         38°42.09’        20°42.68’         30 ft    GOOD         GOOD           NO              NA           FAIR      NICE          Dinghy to Nidri for
 2          (Nidri)                                                                                                                                     tavernas, chandleries, bus
         Nisos Levkas                                                                                                                                  to Levkada. Charter yachts,
  5      Ormos Ayiou          39°16.59’        20°28.01’         42 ft     FAIR        GOOD           NO            NONE           EXCL      NA        Beaches, cliffs, underwater
           Ioannou,                                                                                                                                         fresh water spring
         (near Parga)
  6         Ormos             39°37.03’        19°55.52’         22 ft     GOOD        FAIR           YES             NICE         GOOD      NICE             Venetian forts,
           Garitsas,                                                      in sandy     ferry         (Corfu)         in new                               architecture, museums,
         Nisos Corfu                                                       patches     wakes                        terminal                            harbors, restaurants, walk
                                                                                                                    building                           or taxi to port for clearance,
                                                                                                                                                           taxi to supermarkets
 10        Kotor,             42°25.48’        18°46.12’         40 ft    GOOD         GOOD           YES            NICE          EXCL      NICE            Fjord topography,
         Montenegro                                                                                                                                    Medieval Old Town, walls,
                                                                                                                                                         churches castles, hikes,
                                                                                                                                                            restaurants, shops,
                                                                                                                                                                 beach, bar.

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