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					G i v e y o u r f o r m u l at i o n
S ta r a p p e a l !


p o ly u r e t h a n e s f o r c o s m e t i c s
innovative coSmetic raw materialS


Over 60 years ago, Otto Bayer and his staff developed polyurethanes – a significant
discovery that established Bayer as a pioneer in the field of polyurethane chemis-
try. Ever since, Bayer has systematically pursued the development of polyurethane.
We now offer novel raw materials for the cosmetic industry based on two technology
platforms:


 Aqueous polyurethane film formers
 Polyurethane powder as a sensory additive




e n v i r o n m e n ta l ly f r i e n d ly


A unique manufacturing and filling process ensures the production of highly pure
polyurethanes:


 Baycusan® products are completely free of all cosolvents like ethanol or
 N-methylpyrrolidone
 Baycusan® products contain no preservatives


Baycusan® film formers can be used in low- or zero-VOC hair styling products, thus
meeting the most stringent environmental regulations.




ea Sy to formul ate


Baycusan® film formers offer several formulating advantages compared to existing
film formers:


 Suitable for cold process
 High energy input not required
 Neutralization not required
 Useful over a wide range of pH
 Compatibility with commonly used cosmetic ingredients
                                                m u lt i f u n c t i o n a l r a w m at e r i a l


                                                The Baycusan® product line is truly diverse: it is designed for skin care, sun care, hair
                                                styling and decorative cosmetic applications. Polyurethanes meet many challenges
                                                of formulating elegant and up-to-date cosmetic products due to their versatility and
                                                beautiful aesthetics. Aqueous Baycusan® film former products form clear, odorless
                                                film on skin and hair. The process enables the design of unique polymer structures
                                                with the following attributes:


                                                 Non-tacky, non-greasy and smooth afterfeel
                                                 Exceptional film elasticity and flexibility
                                                 Outstanding water/high humidity resistance


                                                Baycusan® powder imparts a powdery, velvety finish on the skin. In decorative cosmet-
                                                ics. Baycusan® powder improves the spreadability, color expression and color uniform-
                                                ity of formulations on the skin.




baycuSan® c portfolio



                                        liqu i d, aqueous polyu rethane dispe rsion s                                   powde r


  b ayc u S a n ®                   c 1000              c 1001                   c 1003             c 1004                c 1005


                                                                                                                     Methoxy PEG-17/
  inci n a me                 Polyurethane-34      Polyurethane-34       Polyurethane-32       Polyurethane-35       Methoxy PEG-11/
                                                                                                                     HDI Crosspolymer


  Skin Care


  Sun Care


  Skin Mask


  Hair Styling


  Decorative Cosmetics



 especially suitable     suitable
                                                                                                 C 1000

                                               a universal film former for sun care, skin care and decorative cosmetic formulations




            e xc e lle n t wat e r             The evaluation of water resistance was conducted in vitro by applying a mascara

r e S i S ta n c e f o r m a S c a r a         formulation on a wool swatch under controlled conditions. After drying, coated swatch-
                                               es were submerged in water under gentle stirring at 25 °C for 30 minutes. The water
                f o r m u l at i o n S
                                               resistance was measured as the difference in color lightness (L*) of the mascara layer
                                               before and after immersion. Oil-in-water as well as water-in-oil mascara formulations
                                               containing Baycusan® C 1000 show improved water resistance:
                                                          17 % improvement in color retention in case of oil-in-water formulation.
                                                          10 % improvement in color retention in case of water-in-oil formulation.




                                               co lo r lo SS i n a n o i l - i n- wate r m a Sc a r a
                                                                60

                                                                50
                                                                     22%
                                                                                                5%
                                                                40
                                              Color loss (L*)




                                                                30

                                                                20

                                                                10

                                                                 0
                                                                     Oil-in-water mascara,      Oil-in-water mascara,
                           before immersion
                                                                     without film former        with 11,5 wt. %
                           after immersion                                                      Baycusan® C 1000




                                               co lo r lo SS i n a wate r - i n- o i l m a Sc a r a
                                                                60

                                                                50
                                                                     18%
                                                                                                8%
                                                                40
                                              Color loss (L*)




                                                                30

                                                                20

                                                                10

                                                                 0
                           before immersion                          W/O with 7,5 wt. %         W/O with 7,5 wt. %
                           after immersion                           PVP copolymer              Baycusan® C1000
                    e x c e l l e n t w at e r                    Sun care formulations were applied on an artificial skin substrate (Vitro-Skin®). The

             r e S i S ta n c e f o r S u n                       water contact angle of the coated test substrate was measured as an indication of the
                                                                  ability of Baycusan® C 1000 to impart good water resistance to the formulation. The
              c a r e f o r m u l at i o n S
                                                                  graph below illustrates the hydrophobic behavior of Baycusan® C 1000:
                                                                             Negative control (formulation with zero polymer) shows a contact angle of about 30°.
                                                                             Formulation with 5 wt. % Baycusan C 1000 exhibits 60° without UV-filter.
                                                                             Formulation with 5 wt. % Baycusan C 1000 exhibits about 75° with UV-filter.




Oil-in-water formulation: 20 wt. % C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate,                         90,0
        1,5 wt. % C 14-22 Alcohol/ C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside.
                                                                                  80,0
                                OS: Ethylhexyl Salicylate




                                                                                                                                        Increase in water resistance
             BMDBM: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane                                 70,0
               PBSA: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid                            60,0
                                                               contact angle, °




                                                                                  50,0

                 without UV-filters                                               40,0
                 5 % OS + 2 % BMDBM + 4 % PBSA                                    30,0
                                                                                  20,0
                                                                                  10,0
                                                                                   0,0
                                                                                         0      5            10           15       20

                                                                                                  [Baycusan® C 1000], wt. %




  b ayc u S a n ® c 1 0 0 0

  i nci name                               Polyurethane-34

  ch e mic al de scri ption                Aqueous polyurethane dispersion

  appe arance                              White liquid

  applic ation s                           For any type of sun care, skin care and decorative cosmetic formulations

  Viscosit y [mpas]                        < 500

  ph                                       7.5 ± 1.0

  soli ds (%)                              40 ± 2


  prope rti e s                            Baycusan® C 1000 structure contains both hydrophilic and hydrophobic segments which impart a fine balance
                                           of water resistance and ease of removal from skin. Baycusan® C 1000 provides the following key attributes:
                                             Outstanding water resistance
                                             Good non-transfer properties
                                             High skin substantivity: no piling effect
                                             Non-greasy and non-tacky soft afterfeel
                                             Excellent aesthetics: lotions and creams have smooth texture, full body and snow-white appearance
                                             Good washability
                                                                                                       C 1001

                                                    a very flexible film former for low-voc or “true” zero-voc hair styling products




e xcellent HiGH Humidit y                           Baycusan® C 1001 provides excellent high humidity curl retention for styling formula-

               curl retention                       tions, comparable to traditional styling polymers. As shown below, curl retention is
                                                    measured as a function of time at 90 % humidity and at 26 °C. Caucasian, dark brown
                                                    hair tresses were treated with an aqueous Baycusan® C 1001 solution at a concentra-
                                                    tion of 1 and 2 % (~5 mg Baycusan C 1001/g hair).




                                                    Hi G H H u m i di t y c u r l r e te nt i o n


                                                                                                    HHCR


                                                                         100
                                                    Curl retention (%)




                                                                         90
                                                                         80
                                                                         70
                                                                         60
                                                                         50
   Baycusan® C 1001, 2 g of 2 % solution/4 g hair
                                                                               0         100         200           300             400
   Baycusan® C 1001, 1 g of 2 % solution/4 g hair                                              Time (min)




HiGH elaSticity on Hair                             Compared to traditional fixative polymers, Baycusan® C 1001 forms exceptionally flex-
                                                    ible films on hair. Below are SEM images of single-knotted hair fibers coated with an
                                                    acrylate copolymer and Baycusan® C 1001. Under stress, the acrylate copolymer film
                                                    becomes very brittle, while the film on Baycusan® C 1001 remains smooth and shows
                                                    no cracking.




                                                               b ayc u Sa n ® c 10 0 1                      ac ry l ate S co p o lym e r
                                      e xcellent St yle                           Elasticity is one of the key characteristics of Baycusan® C 1001. This property is respon-

                                                 retention                        sible for excellent curl resilience, as shown on the graph and pictures below. The graph
                                                                                  illustrates the change in curl retention after combing through. After combing through
                                                                                  10 times, Baycusan® C 1001 clearly exhibits a superior curl retention in comparison to
                                                                                  widely-used acrylates copolymer and competitive polyurethane. The pictures below
                                                                                  show the results after combing through 40 times.


 curl retention meaSurement after dry combinG                                                      reSultS after 40x dry comb-tHrouGH
                   90
                   85
                   80
                   75
% Curl retention




                   70
                   65
                   60
                   55
                   50
                   45
                   40
                        0       10          20        30               40        50
                                         X comb-through
                                                                                                     initial curl   acrylates copolymer   competitive polyurethane   baycusan® c 1001
                   Baycusan® C 1001     Acrylates copolymer       Competitive PUD




                    b ayc u S a n ® c 1 0 0 1

                    i nci name                                Polyurethane-34

                    ch e mic al de scri ption                 Aqueous polyurethane dispersion

                    appe arance                               White liquid

                    applic ation s                            Any kind of hair styling products: mousses, pump setting sprays, aerosol sprays, styling creams, or styling lotions

                    Viscosit y [mpas]                         < 1000

                    ph                                        7.5 ± 1.0

                    soli ds (%)                               32 ± 2

                    prope rti e s                             Baycusan® C 1001 was specifically designed as a film former for hair styling products: the polymer structure
                                                              provides a balance of elasticity, hydrophobicity and washability. It shows the following key properties:
                                                                Excellent high humidity curl retention
                                                                Strong elastic memory
                                                                Non-tacky feel
                                                                Conditioning effect
                                                                Excellent sprayability
                                                                Easily removable (no build-up on hair)
                                                               C 1003

                     extremely flexible and elastic film former




UniqUe mechanical    The pictures illustrate the high elasticity of a Baycusan® C 1003 film.

       propert ies
                                     HiGH                 In the Baycusan® C product line, Baycusan® C 1003 forms films with the highest flexibil-

                            flexibilit y                  ity. The unique mechanical properties of Baycusan® C 1003 are illustrated in the graph
                                                          below. Baycusan® C 1003 film exhibits a significantly lower tensile strength compared
                                                          to other Baycusan® C films.




                                                                                10

                                                                                9

                                                                                8
                                                      Tensile strength (MP a)




                                                                                7

                                                                                6

                                                                                5

                                                                                4

                                                                                3

                                                                                2
                              100 % elongation
                                                                                 1
                              300 % elongation                                  0
                                                                                     Baycusan®   Baycusan®         Baycusan®      Baycusan®
                                                                                       C 1003      C 1000            C 1001         C 1004



b ayc u S a n ® c 1 0 0 3

i nci name                         Polyurethane-32

ch e mic al de scri ption          Aqueous polyurethane dispersion

appe arance                        White liquid

applic ation s                     Any type of leave on cosmetic formulations, specially well suitable for masks

Viscosit y [mpas]                  < 1000

ph                                 7.5 ± 1.0

soli ds (%)                        50 ± 2

prope rti e s                      Baycusan® C 1003 gives films unique mechanical properties:
                                     Extremely flexible and elastic films
                                     Clear and odorless films
                                     Good water resistance
                                     Excellent skin substantivity
                                     Smooth, non-tacky and soft afterfeel
                                                                         C 1004

                                a film former with distinct performance in eyeliner and waterproof mascara
                                formulations



e xcellent rub-off              Baycusan® C 1004 imparts excellent rub-off resistance to color cosmetic formula-

           r e S i S ta n c e   tions. Baycusan® C 1004 is the polymer of choice for formulating waterproof mas-
                                cara and rub-off-resistant eyeliner. Pictures below show the ability of Baycusan®
                                C 1004 to improve the rub-off resistance of mascara formulations.




   bayc u S a n ® c 10 04                                        no fi l m fo r m e r




                                warm tap water, 10 SecondS Gentle rubbinG




   bayc u S a n ® c 10 04                                        no fi l m fo r m e r
                        o u t S ta n d i n G           Thanks to its predominantly hydrophobic nature, Baycusan® C 1004 performs espe-

              w at e r r e S i S ta n c e              cially well in the most challenging formulations, such as o/w waterproof mascara. The
                                                       evaluation of the water resistance was conducted in vitro by applying a mascara for-
                                                       mulation on a wool swatch under controlled conditions. After drying, coated swatches
                                                       were submerged in water under gentle stirring at 25 °C for 30 minutes. The water re-
                                                       sistance was measured as the difference in color lightness (L*) of the mascara layer be-
                                                       fore and after immersion. The graph below displays that the color loss can be reduced
                                                       by 14 % when Baycusan® C 1004 is used in a waterproof mascara formulation.


                                                            60


                                                            50
                                                                           22 %
                                                                                                                8%
                                                            40


                                                            30
                                                      L*




                                                            20


                                                             10
                              before immersion

                              after immersion
                                                              0
                                                                           O/W without film former                O/W with 11,5 wt. %
                                                                                                                   Baycusan® C 1004


b ayc u S a n ® c 1 0 0 4

i nci name                          Polyurethane-35

ch e mic al de scri ption           Aqueous polyurethane dispersion

appe arance                         White liquid

applic ation s                      Universal film former for any type of decorative cosmetics formulations

Viscosit y [mpas]                   < 500

ph                                  7.5 ± 1.0

soli ds (%)                         41 ± 2

prope rti e s                       Baycusan® C 1004 forms harder and more hydrophobic films than Baycusan® C 1000. Baycusan® C 1004
                                    displays the following key attributes:
                                      Outstanding water resistance
                                      Good non-transfer properties
                                      Non-greasy and non-tacky soft afterfeel
                                      Good balance of hardness and flexibility
                                      Fast drying
                                      Excellent abrasive resistance
                                      Good washability
                                                                                                 C 1005

                                                     a multifunctional sensory aid for skin care and decorative cosmetics with elegant
                                                     finish and luxurious feel



a d v a n ta G e S o f b ay c u S a n ®              Sensory evaluation was performed on a liquid foundation containing Baycusan® C

            c 1 0 0 5 i n p i G m e n t-             1005 and compared to a negative control (without powder). As illustrated below, in the
                                                     sensory profile chart, Baycusan® C 1005 provides better spreadability, and a powdery
c o n ta i n i n G f o r m u l at i o n S
                                                     and less tacky afterfeel on the skin. Furthermore, Baycusan® C 1005 imparts supe-
                                                     rior even-color coverage and color brightness in the formulation in comparison to a
                                                     negative control.




                                                     SenSory profile of a liquid foundation
                                                     (performed by dermSc an):

                                                                Control              Baycusan® C 1005




                                                                          Fluidity
                                                                           15,0
                                             Transferability*                                   Consistence

                                                                           12,0
                                 Thickness                                                                     Easiness of spreading
                                                                            9,0


                                                                            6,0
                 Powdery sensation                                                                                        Powdery touch
                                                                             3,0


                                                                              0,0

                      Velvety skin                                                                                          Covering effect




                              Oily skin                                                                                  Uniformity




                                     Stickiness                                                         Velvety effect


                                             Brightness of the color                     Shining skin




                                                     Comment: The attributes were quantified on linear scales from 0 to 15.
                                                     0 means that the attribute is not detectable and 15 means 100 % detectable.
                                                     The attributes with an asterisk (*) are significant.
        HiGH oil abSorption                             Baycusan® C 1005 exhibits a high oil absorption capacity compared to commonly used

                            c apacit y                  cosmetic powders. Therefore, Baycusan® C 1005 can be used to reduce the oily ap-
                                                        pearance of skin.




                                                                                                 120
                                                  Oil absorbtion capacity (g oil/100 g powder)




                                                                                                 100


                                                                                                 80


                                                                                                 60


                                                                                                 40


                                                                                                 20


                                                                                                  0
                                                                                                       Baycusan® Nylon 12    Oxidized      Silica    Starch    Competitive    Acrylate
                                                                                                         C 1005             polyethylene            derivate   polyurethane crosspolymer
                                                                                                                                                                 powder




b ayc u S a n ® c 1 0 0 5

i nci name                     Methoxy PEG-17/Methoxy PEG-11/HDI Crosspolymer

ch e mic al de scri ption      Polyurethane powder

appe arance                    White powder

applic ation s                 Sensory additive for any type of cosmetic formulation (leave-on and rinse-off products)

soli ds (%)                    100

shape of particle s            Spherical

aV. particle size (µm)         20 ± 5

prope rti e s                  Baycusan® C 1005 imparts the following properties:
                                 Excellent skin feeling: powdery, velvety finish on skin
                                 Outstanding pigment spreadability (even color coverage)
                                 High oil absorption capacity
                                 Excellent cohesive strength of product in pressed powder form
                                 Enhancement of color expression
Experience a multi-talented product with fascinating radiance: Baycusan® – the pio-
neering polyurethane polymer as a film former and sensory additive for your cosmetic
products. With Baycusan®, the secret of beauty now lies in the mix. Easy-to-formulate
Baycusan® offers tailor-made properties for your specific application. Dazzling appear-
ance, a more pleasant feel and optimal hold: Color cosmetics, skin and sun care prod-
ucts as well as hairstyling with Baycusan® offer perfect performance. For a seductive
look and breathtaking styling.
curious? then visit us at www.bayercosmetics.com or contact us.


martin Hüttner
phone: 0049 (0)214 30 81712
email: cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com


Sophie viala
phone: 0049 (0)214 30 44762
email: cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com
Bayer MaterialScience AG             this information and our technical advice – whether verbal, in writing or by way of trials – is given in good
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                                     does not release you from the obligation to test the products supplied by us as to their suitability for the
Germany
                                     intended processes and uses. the application, use and processing of the products are beyond our control
                                     and, therefore, entirely your own responsibility. should, in spite of this, liability be established for any
www.bayercosmetics.com               damage, it will be limited to the value of the goods delivered by us and used by you. we will only sell our
cosmetics@bayermaterialscience.com   products on the basis, of course, provide products of consistent quality within the scope of our General
                                     conditions of sale and delivery. edition: 2009-04 · order-no.: ms00044160 · printed in Germany · e

				
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Description: Give your formulation Star appeal mascara