Good Food News Vol. 8, no. 26
Dec 14/21, 2004
Terra Madre 2004, Turin Italy
A conference like no other occurred in Turin this past October. A Waters, of Chez Panisse Restaurant in San Francisco and a long
gathering of 4800 people from 130 countries and 1200 'food time 'Slow Fooder' spoke of the consumers supporting locally
communities' participated in a "forum for those who seek to grown food as co-producers in that food.
grow, raise, catch, create, distribute and promote food in ways In between workshops we mingled and ate and ate some more
that respect the environment, defend human dignity and protect and met amazing people by chance. We spoke about our
the health of consumers." struggles and our successes. The joys we shared were heartfelt,
knowing we were part of a worldwide community.
Terra Madre was a dream of the Slow Food Movement, born just
1 year ago and it became a reality with the support of hundreds In the evenings we were taken by bus to nearby towns where
of volunteers and the financial support of the City of Turin, the we were met by our hosts and taken back to the farm for
Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry and the Region of dinner or out again for dinner at another "Agroturismo". These
Piedmonte. It was an amazing feat to accomplish in such a short are farms with restaurants where you eat what that farm
time and an historical event to gather from all over the world, produces. One evening we went to a cattle farm and ate every
the producers themselves. There were honey producers from imaginable part of the cow. I personally drew the line at the
Nicaragua, grain growers from Kenya, Ladak and Western nose! Many of our hosts were members of Coldiretti, a National
Canada, Maple Syrup producers from south-eastern Canada, and Farmers Federation. They were incredibly generous and eager to
indigenous peoples from as far away as Afganistan just to name share with us their food and their stories. We felt like we had
a few. Many delegates dressed their native clothing, it was a landed in heaven and the food was plentiful and delicious. Our
sight to behold and to warm the heart. Like a United Nations of host family owned the Agriturismo San Giovanni just outside
farmers. the village of Favria, approximately 40 k from Turin. Franca, the
mother from our host farm made some of the most delicious
The Slow Food movement was born in Italy in 1986 and food I have ever tasted. We were blessed.
internationally in 1989. It began in response to McDonalds
seeking to open a franchise in Rome. However, it has grown to At the opening ceremony we heard from Vandana Shiva. She
an international organization with 80,000 members and the little spoke about the right of all farmers throughout the world to
snail as its logo. Slow Food works to revive our endangered use the land and the seas as the precious resources given to us
biodiversity. With biodiversity comes an appreciation of taste and by mother earth. These things must not be patented. The
pleasure. The Ark of Taste is a Slow Food initiative, which has as delegate from Brazil said that "slow food is fast justice" He
its aim to identify and catalogue dishes, foods and animals in spoke of protecting our right to enjoy the earth's bounties, her
danger of disappearing. They also provide economic and media miracles in which we participate and which have sustained us
support to groups and individuals pledging to save an Ark for millennia. "food is the currency of life" At the closing
product. In Canada there are two plant varieties and one animal plenary session, Prince Charles, the Prince of Wales spoke of the
species listed on the Ark. They are the Montreal Melon, Red Fife importance of food communities saving our food diversity.
Wheat and the Canadienne Cow. Carlo Petrinni, one of the founders of Slow Food, in his closing
remarks said:" we envision a new agricultural system that
At Terra Madre participants had a choice of 61 workshops to respects local cultural identities, the earth's resources,
attend over 2 days. The workshops were simultaneously sustainable animal husbandry and the health of individual
translated into the seven official languages. Some topics included consumers"
were Honey and its health benefits to developing countries;
Small scale fishing; What to feed animals; The benefits of raw Let it be so! So seed by seed, plant by plant, community by
milk; Rice; Corn; Salt; Food, it all begins in the kitchen. In this community we will reclaim the earth. Terra Madre 2004 helped
workshop, chefs spoke about using locally produced foods of all us to believe it to be true. -- Colette Murphy.
kinds and developing a cuisine around those local Colette Murphy is a visionary urban farmer and entrepreneur who grows
products. In this way they can increase quality and also plants in the city through Urban Harvest and has developed a brilliant
an awareness of what our neighbours are growing. Alice skin care product line called Earthly Paradise.
Field to Table Centre
200 Eastern Ave.
Toronto, ON M5A 1J1
t. 363-6441 f. 363-0474
Working with communities to improve access to affordable and healthy food — from field to table
Recipes Featured this week...
This large edible root belongs to the morning-glory family and is
We have included a variety of recipes to make a traditional native to tropical areas of the Americas. There are many varieties
“Canadian” holiday dinner using many items from the box. of sweet potato but the two that are widely grown commercially
Perfect Roast Chicken are a pale sweet potato and the darker-skinned variety called
"yam" (but the true yam is not related to the sweet potato). The
1 six-pound roasting chicken
darker variety has a thicker, dark orange skin and a vivid orange,
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
sweet flesh that cooks to a much moister texture. Fresh sweet
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
potatoes are available throughout the year, but not as readily
2 medium onions, peeled and sliced crosswise ½ inch thick
during the summer months. Sweet potatoes don't store well
unless the environment is just right, which is dry, dark and at
3 large cloves garlic, peeled
room temperature. Under perfect conditions they can be stored for
4 sprigs fresh thyme
3 to 4 weeks. Do not refrigerate, as they will start to decay as
1cup Homemade Chicken Stock, or canned broth, skimmed of fat
soon as the temperature starts to drop below 10oC.
1. Let chicken and 1 tablespoon butter stand at room temperature for
Orange juice and zest go with sweet potatoes and other sweet
30 minutes. Preheat oven to 425°. Remove and discard the plastic pop-
additions include brown sugar and maple syrup. Nutmeg, cumin,
up timer from chicken if there is one. Remove the giblets and excess fat
ginger, cloves, all spice, cinnamon and curry powder are
from the chicken cavity. Rinse chicken inside and out under cold
compatible spices and fresh herbs liven up sweet potatoes such as
running water. Dry chicken thoroughly with paper towels. Tuck the
coriander, parsley and chives. They also taste great with apples,
wing tips under the body. Sprinkle the cavity of the chicken liberally
pears, raisins, currants and hot peppers.
with salt and pepper, and set aside.
2. In the centre of a heavy-duty roasting pan, place onion slices in two Roasted Sweet Potatoes with Honey Glaze
rows, touching. Place the palm of your hand on top of lemon and, 2¼ pounds red-skinned sweet potatoes, peeled, cut into 1½-inch
pressing down, roll lemon back and forth several times. This softens the rounds (about 7 cups)
lemon and allows the juice to flow more freely. Pierce entire surface of 2 tablespoons butter
lemon with a fork. Using the side of a large knife, gently press on garlic 3 tablespoons honey
cloves to open slightly. Insert garlic cloves, thyme sprigs, and lemon into 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
cavity. Place chicken in pan, on onion slices. Cut about 18 inches of
kitchen twine, bring chicken legs forward, cross them, and tie together. Preheat oven to 350°F. Arrange sweet potatoes in 13x9x2-inch
glass baking dish. Stir butter, honey, and lemon juice in small
3. Spread the softened butter over entire surface of chicken, and sprinkle saucepan over medium heat until butter melts. Pour butter
liberally with salt and pepper. Place in the oven, and roast until skin is mixture over sweet potatoes; toss to coat. Sprinkle generously with
deep golden brown and crisp and the juices run clear when pierced, salt and pepper. Bake sweet potatoes until tender when pierced
about 1 1/2 hours. When chicken seems done, insert an instant-read with skewer, stirring and turning occasionally, about 50 minutes.
thermometer into the breast, then the thigh. The breast temperature Makes 6 servings.
should read 180° and the thigh 190°. Bon Appétit, February 2001
4. Remove chicken from oven, and transfer to a cutting board with a
well. Let chicken stand 10 to 15 minutes so the juices settle. Meanwhile,
Green Beans and Roasted Red Onions
pour the pan drippings into a shallow bowl or fat separator, and leave 2¼ lb medium red onions (about 5)
onions in the pan. Leave any brown baked-on bits in the bottom of the ¼ cup olive oil
roasting pan, and remove and discard any blackened bits. Using a large 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
spoon, skim off and discard as much fat as possible. Pour the remaining 1 teaspoon kosher salt
drippings and the juices that have collected under the resting chicken ¼ teaspoon black pepper
back into the roasting pan. Place on the stove over medium-high heat to ¼ cup water
cook, about 1 minute. Add chicken stock, raise heat to high, and, using 1½ lb green beans, trimmed and cut diagonally into 2-inch pieces
a wooden spoon, stir up and combine the brown bits with the stock Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 450°F. Oil a
until the liquid is reduced by half, about 4 minutes. Strain the gravy 13- by 9-inch baking pan. After peeling onions, trim root ends,
into a small bowl. Discard onions, and stir in the remaining tablespoon leaving onions whole, then quarter onions lengthwise. Put onions
of cold butter until melted and incorporated. Untie legs, remove and in baking pan, then drizzle with oil and vinegar, tossing to coat.
discard garlic, thyme, and lemon. Carve and serve gravy on the side. Arrange onions with a cut side down and sprinkle with salt and
Serves 4. From: Martha Stewart
pepper. Roast, uncovered, turning over once and basting with pan
juices twice during baking, until deep golden, about 30 minutes.
Deliveries and Shut-down info Add water to pan and roast until onions are tender and
For the week of Dec 21, Coordinator orders are due by 5 p.m. caramelized, about 20 minutes more. Transfer onions with pan
on Tuesday Dec 14. juices to a large bowl. While onions are roasting, cook beans in a
5- to 6-quart pot of boiling salted water, uncovered, until crisp-
For the week of Jan 4, 2005, Coordinator orders are due by
tender, about 5 minutes. Drain beans in a colander, then add to
Dec 22 at the latest. No late orders will be accepted. onions and toss. Season with salt and pepper.
Makes 8 servings.
We will be closed from Dec 24 until Jan 3, 2005. Gourmet, September 2004