the Middle Mountain Foundation
The Sutter Buttes Regional Land Trust
from Thompson & West History of Sutter County 1879
FALL 2006
Protecting Landscapes Preserves Our Heritage
By Michael Hubbartt
Rugged and undeveloped, the silhouette of the Sutter Buttes are a reassuring symbol of the permanence of a natural order that provides peace of mind to a hurried and transitory society. The housing sprawl of the Bay area and Sacramento, once distant on the horizon, now looms before us. Unchecked, burgeoning cities consume the very resources that insure their survival! Even Sutter County’s population has tripled every fifty years. Thousands of acres of farmland and rangeland, once home for sheep and cattle, poppy and lupine, rice, peaches or prunes, foxes, hawks, sand hill cranes, and meadowlarks, are now home for hundreds of thousands of people!
This was an important first step in securing a consensus of landowners and planners to preserve its scenic beauty, but we realize that drawing a line around the Buttes does not protect it. Our solution lies in developing a collaborative approach to connect with the entire community and in influencing attitudes to change how our society relates to the landscape. The Foundation has recently expanded it sphere of influence to preserve farm and rangeland and natural resources in the entire Sacramento Valley region surrounding the Sutter Buttes. We have identified six values to espouse, six concepts that will focus our objectives and provide an outline for our work plan. They are listed on Page 2 of this Newsletter.
The Middle Mountain Protecting farmland and Foundation was incorporated in rangeland not only preserves 1989 to protect the Sutter Buttes local families ranching lifestyles. Hikers resting near North Butte from this development. In 2003 Gentle Stroll, April 2005; Photo by Don Stover It also preserves our small town we participated in a series of atmosphere and picturesque rural meetings between Sutter County countryside. Open grasslands and woodlands make Planners and Sutter Buttes landowners. The result a priceless scenic backdrop for our communities. of that meeting was a zoning code amendment Responsible farming practices provide habitat for providing a special designation for the Sutter waterfowl, for wildlife, and corridors for their Buttes to minimize impacts of development and migration. Taking a collaborative approach construction.
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The Mission of the Middle Mountain Foundation
The Middle Mountain Foundation works to protect the land and natural resources of the Sutter Buttes and the surrounding region for present and future generations.
President’s Message
By Babs Cotter
Values
♦ Protect the natural, cultural, geological, historical, and scenic qualities of the Sutter Buttes. ♦ Identify prime agricultural lands and natural areas that preserve and enhance the unique characteristics of the region surrounding the Sutter Buttes. ♦ Build partnerships with landowners, community leaders, and developers to balance conservation with economic growth, flood protection, and water quality to help plan better communities. ♦ Respect landowners’ rights and provide information to those who want to conserve their land. ♦ Increase public awareness of the Middle Mountain Foundation’s dedication to education, interpretation, and land conservation. ♦ Maintain an efficient, effective, and sustainable organization. Special Thank You The Middle Mountain Foundation acknowledges the following contributors and individuals:
Joni Adams, Ludel Bouchard, Dorothy Ettl, Eleanor Knox, Pete Sands, Mary Spilman Crane, Community Memorial Museum of Sutter County, Our Members, Our Volunteers, Our Advisors, and our Hikers!
The last eight months have been busy and very productive for MMF. The new Values and Mission Statement are completed (on the left) and reflect our expanded focus on areas surrounding the Sutter Buttes. This is in recognition that the things which affect the surrounding regions also affect the Sutter Buttes. MMF has increased its presence in the community and has become pro-active and very involved with preserving open space and agricultural lands in Yuba, Sutter, and Colusa counties. Our Executive Director, Mike Darnell, has spent considerable time educating ranchers and farmers regarding Conservation Easements. An easement protects agricultural land by separating the right to build on the property from other rights of ownership (which are defined for each easement). The landowner still owns and manages the land. The Foundation now holds a second easement with the finalization of the Messick Easement in Yuba County in July. Now there is a 30-acre parcel that will be a walnut orchard and wildlife habitat and will never be developed. We are increasing our presence in the community by working with local government supervisors and planners with the General Plan Updates in Sutter, Yuba, and Colusa Counties. We have also been working with Ducks Unlimited, Department of Conservation, Department of Fish and Game, and State Parks to further awareness and opportunities for wildlife habitat and land conservation. We are preparing our 2007 Work Plan and would appreciate input from our membership regarding what you would like to see us include. We are also looking for someone who is energetic, committed, and has fundraising expertise to help us with our fundraising needs. We have four potential areas of financial need: West Butte School restoration; Educational Program development funding, conservation easement funding; and land acquisition. We continue to need volunteers for various activities. For example, the work continues on West Butte School restoration, we periodically have “clean-up” days in the Buttes as a way of helping and thanking the landowners, and we try to be represented at various community activities. As we gear up for the Fall Hike Season we hope you will join us in the Buttes. The hikes fill up quickly. As a member or recent hiker, you are receiving the hike schedule in this newsletter two weeks before it goes on our website. Take advantage of the early notice and sign up right away! I look forward to meeting you at our Membership Appreciation Day in October. If you are not yet a member or your membership has expired, I invite you to use the enclosed envelope to send your donation or membership.
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In Honor of
Donations have been received in honor of:
Walt Anderson, Marlene Hubbartt, Mike Hubbartt, Ivan and Sara Lemoine, Molly Maier, Karen Morrison, and Arlene Ward
In Memory of
Donations have been received in memory of: George Alves, Peter Clark, Riley Franklin Davids, Irving Dow, Marion Francis, June Masaye Gibson, Isabel Gomez, Professor D. F. Grether, Bruce Jenkins, Jack May, Gary Lee Morris, and Lee Tennenbaum
Business Sponsors and Supporters
The Middle Mountain Foundation would like to thank and acknowledge the generous support of the following corporate sponsors. Their donations—financial, time, and space—help to make our work possible. Amicus Books Appeal-Democrat Rich Bowder/Joe Bouchard California State Automobile Association Center for Family Mediation Dow Lewis Motors EDAW, Inc. Fischer Towing Hall’s Towing J&W Auto KKCY Country 103.1 KUBA Radio 1600 Meek’s Lumber and Hardware Mitchell’s Towing Napa Auto Parts PAL Investigations, Inc. The Phone Smith PIP Printing Points West Argo, Inc. The Sacramento Bee Sunny 101.5 Sutter North Medical Foundation Sutter Orchard Supply Kermit Tarke Ranch Twin Cities Floor Covering Wild Birds Unlimited Yuba City Florist Yuba Sutter Disposal, Inc.
West Butte School MMF Web Store
The Middle Mountain Foundation Web store is located at www.middlemountain.org. These are the items available. The purchase of any of these items is another way to support our efforts in the Sutter Buttes. We also have an historic 1873 Sutter County Map.
The Middle Mountain Foundation accepted the donation of the historic West Butte School in April, 2005. It sits on a 0.8-acre parcel on Pass Road, near West Butte Road. We are requesting copies of any West Butte School October, 2005 photographs, history, or memories that you are willing to share about the grounds and the structure so that we have a good reference for our restoration efforts. Julie Stark, at the Community Memorial Museum of Sutter County, will collect your photographs and memories. The Museum is at 1333 Butte House Road, Yuba City. The telephone is 530-822-7141. We have had several work days with a great turnout of volunteers on each occasion. We have: 1. Removed the drywall and insulation from the interior to expose the wood framing 2. Cleared brush and miscellaneous debris from around the grounds 3. Weather-proofed the bell tower 4. Installed a new 200 amp electrical service 5. Installed a new electric circuit to the well pump 6. Painted the exterior of the school house white Please contact Rich Bowder at 530-673-9295 if you can contribute time, expertise, and/or materials.
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Walt Anderson’s book, “Sutter Buttes, An Inland Island”
MMF T-Shirts & Polo Shirts
MMF Caps
Sutter Buttes Maps
Sutter Buttes 2007 Calendar
Sutter Buttes T-Shirts
Margit Sands: Landowner, Guide, MMF Board Member
This fall sign up for a hike with Margit Sands, a third generation Descendent of the Dean Ranch Family. Margit is on the MMF Board of Directors. She coordinates and schedules our Foundation guides and chartered outings. She usually covers the 1200-acre rangeland quickly on horseback, but this season she will guide a couple of leisurely hilltop strolls and offer her unique perspective of growing up in the Buttes. She provides us with some memories to give us a hint of what to expect. “My grandfather, Ed Dean, purchased the Buttes Ranch in 1898. One of the previous owners was Union Lumber, who used it to winter their oxen when the snow made logging impossible in the Sierras. They built a long barn for their use. We still call it the “long barn” although it is only half of the original length. My Grandfather dismantled half and rebuilt it to the west near the wheat field. I guess he wasn’t as good of a carpenter-- the half that he relocated collapsed in a storm years ago! The oxen were working animals that needed to be shod. We still occasionally find an ox shoe on the ground.”
Margit Sands; May 2006
“The cattle-drives are some of my most exciting memories of ranch life. It used to take an hour just to drive up the four miles from the base of the Buttes to the ranch house. We’d go up on a Friday afternoon in May and gather the cattle. One time I remember voicing my concern to my Mother that I might get lost since it was getting dark. Her reply was not to worry, the horse knows the way home. We would head the cattle down the road at first light on a Saturday morning, driving the herd right through the town of Sutter and across Highway 20! What a sight! Then arrive mid-afternoon at the lower ranch West of Yuba City out near the Sutter Bypass. Ah, the life of a cowboy!” Walt Anderson started accessing our lands with groups of hikers in 1979, and in 1980 he introduced me to Pete Sands. He sent the two of us out together on the annual Christmas Bird Count, I was the guide and Pete was the birder. Well, we’ve been together ever since!” “My appreciation for the Buttes continues to grow. As a child growing up, I just took them for granted. Now, each time the hikers thank us for access to our ranch and say what a wonderful place it is, I am reminded how lucky I am that my grandfather worked so hard to purchase and keep the ranch. Eventually the ranch will be put in a conservation easement to protect it from any development. I would sure hate to see houses covering those hillsides that I ride now to check on our cattle.” “I really have an appreciation for all parts of the nature but my true love is the wildflowers. Perhaps I inherited that interest since my Mother has requested that her ashes be scattered among the Baby Blue Eyes.” Walk with Margit Sands. As you feel her joy of sharing the Dean Family’s history of stewardship, you will appreciate her connection to the land, and you will understand why the Middle Mountain Foundation works with the Buttes ranchers to preserve this precious landscape.
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Margit and Dakota
Protecting Landscapes Preserves Our Heritage
(Continued from Page 1)
Educational Program
In partnership with Sutter Buttes landowners, California State Parks, and local school districts, the Middle Mountain Foundation provides unique outdoor educational experiences in the Sutter Buttes. We discover the geological forces that shaped its landscape, the relationships of wildlife and plant life, and how each succeeding society has increasingly impacted the land and altered its natural balance. Within the context of these historical and contemporary influences on the landscape, we provide a rationale for preserving the Sutter Buttes historic legacy and its natural beauty. MMF Executive Director, Mike Darnell, is applying for grant money to expand this program.
demonstrates a measure of appreciation and respect for all parties who hold a vested interest in balancing our economy with ecology. Our farming and ranching neighbors have maintained their family Bragg Canyon, December 2005 operations for 100 to 150 years and have preserved an irreplaceable landscape! Local government supervisors and planners work to create a farsighted general plan that will preserve our agricultural heritage. State Fish and Game personnel offer a perspective that emphasizes protection of broad habitat ecosystems to accommodate a balance of multiple species. State Parks provides education resources and interpretive programs that provide public access that is managed to protect historic, natural, and cultural resources. National and regional conservation alliances offer opportunities for networking, resource pooling, and programs already proven elsewhere for local use. We are already meeting with people, these agencies, and these organizations, but we need to do more. We need you. The Middle Mountain Foundation needs the support, the assistance, and the donations of our community. Only by working together will we preserve these extraordinary natural and beautiful features of our homeland that feed our souls and the agricultural resources that nourish our lives.
Membership Appreciation Event
Please join us for our Membership Appreciation Event in later October. Food and drinks will be served while you have a chance to meet the Middle Mountain board and staff members. Also peruse historical documents and pictures of the progress on the restoration of West Butte School, which was donated to the Middle Mountain Foundation. We will have presentations about various aspects of the Membership Appreciation, November 2005 Sutter Buttes. The event will be in the afternoon. Current members will receive an invitation in early October. If you are not a member or your membership has expired, please join today to get an invitation to this great event.
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Middle Mountain Foundation Interpretive Program
The Middle Mountain Foundation interpretive program hikes provide access to the privately owned Sutter Buttes hillsides and peaks. Guides share its unique origins and history and examine with you a natural ecology that has become increasingly rare in our time. The different hikes and diverse guides each offer a unique experience in the Buttes. 1 = Easy A day in the Buttes begins around 2 = Moderate 8:30 a.m. and ends around 3:30 p.m. 3 = Challenging (unless otherwise noted). Trips are 4 = Difficult scheduled and will proceed in all but 5 = Strenuous the most severe weather conditions. Participants of all hikes should be Hike Ratings prepared to expect uneven footing, stepping over rocks and boulders, crossing streams, and hill climbing. Spring hikers are likely to encounter wet, squishy, ankle-deep grass, while fall trekkers will be contending with thistles and stickers. Poison oak is abundant, but you will be warned of its proximity. Rattlesnakes, though common in the warmer weather, are usually reclusive and inactive during our hiking seasons. Individuals and families may reserve a date for one of the public hikes by email at mmfhikes@yahoo.com; or call Karen at 530-671-6116. (Note: The Yuba College hike must be scheduled directly with the Yuba College Community Education Office at 530-741-6821.) Cost for most open hikes is $35.00 per person. If a catered meal is included, or for special hikes, there is an additional charge. Organizations or groups of ten or more may schedule a charter hike by contacting Margit at 530-846-5142 after 5:00 p.m. or by email at psands@manznet.com. The cost for charters is $300.00 minimum, and $30.00 per person for each additional hiker over ten.
Fall 2006 Hike Schedule
Sunday .....Oct...29 ..... Native Ways: Acorn Gathering Peace Valley History/Nature Ridge Trek – Dean Ranch Saturday ...Nov....4 ..... Full Moon Stroll Gentle Stroll – Dean Ranch Ridge Trek – Dean Ranch Summit Ascent Tuesday....Nov....7 ..... Ridge Trek – Dean Ranch Sunday .....Nov..12 ..... Bugs and Birds Study Cross Country Trek Saturday ...Nov..18 ..... Geology Trek – Dean Ranch Peace Valley History/Nature Summit Ascent Sunday .....Nov..19 ..... Yuba College Ridge Hike*** Saturday ...Dec ....2 ..... Birds in the Buttes Bragg Canyon Ridge/Summit* Wildlife in the Buttes Saturday ...Dec ....9 ..... Buttes Transect—Higher** Buttes Transect—Lower** Saturday ...Jan ...13 ..... Bragg Canyon Ridge/Summit*
*The cost of this hike is $45.00. **The cost of this hike is $55.00. ***Call the Yuba College Community Education Office at 530-741-6821 to make reservations for this hike.
Spring Hikers, April 2005
Sutter Buttes 2007 Calendar
This calendar is an astonishing collection of color pictures from local photographers who share our endless fascination and appreciation for the Sutter Buttes. They each donated their images, from which we chose these 14 (including cover and January 2008). There is a limited number of calendars for this fundraiser, so don’t delay. It will be on sale in early October. They may be purchased at the Community Memorial Museum of Sutter County, PIP Printing, in Yuba City; at The Brick and Amicus Books, in Marysville; at the T-Shirt Factory in Gridley; at Magna Carta Stationery, Bidwell Mansion, Mountain Impact, Mountain Sports, and Bird In Hand, in Chico; from Middle 2007 MMF Sutter Buttes Calendar Mountain Board Members and staff; or on our website at www.middlemountain.org with PayPal.
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Middle Mountain Guided Hike Information
Birds in the Buttes Hike: Witness the winter birds in and around the Sutter Buttes with the Christmas bird count organizer, Pete Sands. Bring food and water. Meet at 6:45 a.m. Limit is 12. 2 Saturday, December 2, 2006 Bragg Canyon Ridge/Summit Hike: Walk deep into the old central lakebed of the Sutter Buttes Volcano. The summit ascent is optional and, if taken, changes the difficulty from 3 to 4. This hike costs $45.00. Bring food and water. Meet at 7:45 am. Saturday, December 2, 2006 Saturday, January 13, 2007 Gentle Stroll: Join us for a leisurely stroll especially suited for casual walkers and nature lovers. Prepare for some moderate climbing and uneven ground. Bring food and 2 water. Meet at 8:30 a.m. Saturday, November 4, 2006 Geology Trek: Discover the violent origins of this tiny mountain range with Volcanologist Brian Hausback. Brian reveals 1.5 million years of geologic history, uniquely accessible here. Bring food and water. Saturday, November 18, 2006
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Bugs and Birds Study: Join Stan Wright to discover how much the balance of nature depends on insects. Entomologist Stan Wright brings a lifetime love of bugs to his studies in the Sutter Buttes. He also conducted a study of wild birds in the Sutter Buttes and will discuss his results as well as 2 bird biology and ecology. Bring food and water. Sunday, November 12, 2006 Buttes Transect Hike—Lower: Traverse the craggy central volcanic core of the Sutter Buttes—mostly on old wagon roads which are not maintained. This is not as strenuous and physically demanding as is the higher transect hike, but will involve significant climbing and will be a long day. You will need good, solid boots. A walking stick will be helpful. We will car-shuttle from one end of the Buttes to the other side. The higher hike will be transecting the opposite direction. Total will be 7-8 miles. Only register for this hike if you are in very good physical shape. This hike costs $55.00. 3 Bring food and water. Meet at 7:30 am. Limit is 30. Saturday, December 9, 2006 Buttes Transect Hike—Higher: Traverse the craggy central volcanic core of the Sutter Buttes. This is a very strenuous, "aggressive," and physically demanding hike that requires strength, stamina, and good, solid boots. We will car-shuttle from one end of the Buttes to the other side. Our hiking-route climbs steeply to a high natural ridge that will provide us with expansive panoramas of the Buttes and beyond. The lower hike will be transecting the opposite direction. Total will be 78 miles with about 1900 feet of elevation gain and 2000 feet of elevation loss. Only register for this hike if you are in top physical shape. This hike costs $55.00. Bring food and 5 water. Meet at 7:30 am. Limit is 15. Saturday, December 9, 2006 Cross Country Trek: Join our guide on a cross country trek from the Dean Ranch to the edges of Peace Valley. It will be a strenuous hike with few “trails” and will include steep uphill climbing. Bring food and water. 3 Sunday, November 12, 2006 Full Moon Stroll: Observation and reflection on nature’s balance will be our focus on this meander through oak groves and gentle hillsides under a lunar glow. Bring food and water. Meet at 4:30 pm. Limit is 15. 2 Saturday, November 4, 2006 7
Native Ways-Acorn Gathering: Walk with Diana Almendariz through this Spirit Mountain, Histim Yani, as she reflects on stories of her ancestral connections. Upon reaching the carefully chosen grinding rock, we will experience all aspects of the “acorn.” Bring food and water. 1 Sunday, October 29, 2006 Peace Valley History/Nature Hike: Walk back into history within Peace Valley, remotely sequestered behind the hilly ramparts on the north side of the Buttes. State Parks has authorized us to provide limited public access. We will reveal how wildlife and indigenous plants have co-evolved in symbiotic parity, and how introduced exotic species have altered the landscape. We will locate sites of the native stoneage culture that existed in harmony with their surroundings for centuries and examine the remains of pioneer settlements that are over 100 years old. Bring food and water. Sunday, October 29, 2006 (History/Nature) 3 Saturday, November 18, 2006 (History/Nature) Ridge Treks: Steady climbing on uneven ground and frequent stops to examine the natural elements provides an excellent view of the Sutter Buttes. Bring food and water. Sunday, October 29, 2006 Saturday, November 4, 2006 Tuesday, November 7, 2006
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Summit Ascents: Our second most challenging trek, this route is a steep, off trail climb with no easy switchbacks or groomed trails. Bring food and water and you may want a hiking stick. Limit is 15. 4 Saturday, November 4, 2006 Saturday, November 18, 2006 Wildlife in the Buttes Hike: Broaden your appreciation for the amazing diversity and adaptations of wildlife in the Buttes with Gene Trapp, professor emeritus at CSU, Sacramento. Bring your questions about mammals and we'll talk about their behavior and ecology. Bring your camera, binoculars, and wear boots with good ankle support. We will have some steep cross-slope and uphill hiking; walking staffs are very helpful. Bring food and water. 3 Saturday, December 2, 2006 Yuba College Ridge Trek: This Yuba College hike must be scheduled directly with the Yuba College Community Education Office. Call 530-741-6821 to make 3 reservations and payment. Sunday, November 19, 2006
the Middle Mountain Foundation
P.O Box 3359, Yuba City, CA 95992-3359 Telephone: 530-755-3568 Web Site: www.middlemountain.org email: middlemountain@yahoo.com
President Babs Cotter Vice President Laura Lush Treasurer Geoff Kauffman Chief Financial Officer Joe Bouchard Other Directors Anne Adams Dorothy Davis Mike Hubbartt Margit Sands Julie Stark Director Emeritus Walt Anderson
Executive Director Mike Darnell Secretary Karen Morrison Advisors Rich Bowder, Taisha Campbell, Mary Spilman Crane, Tim Davis, Brian Hausback, Marsha Henderson, Heather Johnson, Tom Kingsley, Robyn Krock, Pete Sands, Gene Trapp, Dale Whitmore, David Wilson Area Liaison Advisors Anne Adams, Sacramento Dorothy Davis, Chico Roger Ewers, Davis Barry Owen, Bay Area Gerry Wyman, Alameda County
Non Profit Organization U. S. Postage PAID Permit No. 01 Marysville, CA 95901
To:
Newsletter: Writer—Michael Hubbartt Editor—Karen Morrison Printing—PIP Printing
In this issue: Protecting Landscapes Preserves Our Heritage; President’s Message; Business Sponsors and Supporters; West Butte School; Margit Sands: Landowner, Guide, MMF Board Member; Membership Appreciation Event; Interpretive Program & Hikes.
Community Memorial Museum of Sutter County Events
1333 Butte House Road, Yuba City 95993 530-822-7141 Through October 22 Art for the California Labor Movement Exhibit September 29 Woody Guthrie and His Times Program, 7:00 p.m.; no charge October 16 October 25 November 9 December 7 December 9 Volunteer Appreciation Tea; 10:00 a.m. Christmas Ornament; 10:00 a.m. Christmas Ornament Workshop; 10:00 a.m. Decoration Day; 9:00 a.m. (Holiday Decorations) Trees & Traditions Christmas Gala; 5:00 to 8:00 p.m.
Contact Us
The Middle Mountain Foundation is a group of dedicated individuals who work on a part-time basis, most of us volunteering our time. You can reach us: • At our website: www.middlemountain.org • By mail: PO Box 3359, Yuba City, CA 95992 • Mike Darnell, Executive Director, at 530-7553568 or email middlemountain@yahoo.com • Karen Morrison, email mmfhikes@yahoo.com, or 530-671-6116 Telephone calls and email messages will be returned as soon as possible and our mail on a weekly basis. Please leave detailed messages or requests for information. We appreciate your patience and understanding and, especially, your interest in the Sutter Buttes and surrounding regions.
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December 17 Open House and Children's Program Hiking sticks are available for sale at the Museum!