Orrah, this letter is for orientation: I’ve never claimed to know much. Ask me for the time and I’ll build you a watch anyway I suppose. Here are some things I do know. The directions have been obtained from all available sources, principal among which are the charts father and I poured over. I have included readings of the moment and events – sometimes personal – among the advisories. Also I have tried to provide guides and texts so that the reader can find or in part apprehend the land. The bearings and courses are true in degrees from 0 (north) to 360. Bearings limiting sectors of lights are toward the light. The directions of winds refer to the points from which they blow; of currents, the points toward which they set. These directions are true. The mile is approximately 2,000 yards, or 60 to a degree of latitude. Soundings are referred to low water of ordinary springs. Details of lights, except buoy lights, should be taken from the latest light lists and charts, as no attempt has been made to cover these details. Dialogs are usually between my acquiantances and or my father and any guests or shore side clients. One or more of my three children most often supplies drama. The coast is generally straight and precipitous, and is beaten, especially in winter, by a heavy northwest to northnorthwestern swell. There are numerous coves in which small vessels or boats can find shelter from the waves. Most of the rain and weather occurs during December, January, February, and early March.
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Sand beaches of great extent sometimes break the lines of the cliffs especially to the northward, but the surf is equally violent. Inland from the coast is a range of coastal hills, which is backed by the Sierra Nevada. In some areas, its proximity to the coast and its elevation change all the watercourses into torrents. The rivers are generally full in the summer months, and often overflow in January and February. They fall in the summer months becoming nearly dry during August and September. As it seldom if ever rains during these months, it is difficult to procure fresh water. The wells on the shore often give brackish water during this time. Nearly all the water used is distilled, ad consequently expensive. Winds – The prevailing winds on the shores of California blow from north- north east to northwest, seldom stronger than a fresh breeze in the south and not often, on certain parts of the coast, more than sufficient to enable shipping to make a passage from one port to another. This is especially the case in the district between … land … Sometimes during the summer for three or four successive days there is not a breath of wind, the sky beautifully clear, and a nearly vertical sun. The zone between … and .. is most subject to these cobalt days. Land and sea breeze – On the days that the sea breeze sets in it generally commences about 10o’clock in the morning; light and variable at first, but gradually increasing till 1 or 2 o’clock in the afternoon. From that time a steady breeze prevails till near sunset, when it begins to die away, and soon after sundown all is a dead calm. About 8 or 9 o’clock in the evening light winds begin to come off the land, and continue until sunrise, when it again falls calm until the sea breeze after midday. All winds from northeast to eastnortheast are called the terral, or land winds; the renown Santana wind …s from these petals on the compass rose.
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Winds form north to south-southwest , or from seaward, are called the virazon, or sea breeze. The virazon is lighter in proportion as it comes up later or as it blows more directly from seaward; it then dies out earlier. The land and sea breezes are often separated by an interval of calm. The southern and central coasts of California are rarely visited by storms or hurricanes. The barometric variation is insignificant; there is neither thunder nor lightning; the rains, which take place from June to August, are so inconsiderable that they hardly deserve the name of showers. When sailing a short distance from the coast the sky and horizon have often an appearance so dark and threatening as to alarm those who do not know the want of significance of such signs in these latitudes; the most violent squalls under these circumstances do not necessitate taking in the topsails or courses. When the breeze is only a little fresh it always scatters these dark mists. During the winter light northerly winds may be expected frequently, and are generally accompanied by think fogs or dark, lowering weather; but this seldom occurs in the summer months, although even then the tops of the hills are frequently enveloped in this mist. Northward of Point Conception the winds are more to be depended on; the sea breeze sets in with greater regularity and more vigor than on the southern parts of the coast, and near the limit of the northern counties up by Mendocino and beyond, a double-reefed topsail breeze is not uncommon. Sudden gusts – It is to be remarked that although these moderate winds are the general rule on the coast, sudden and heavy gusts often come over the high land after the sea breeze sets in; and from the smallness of the many coves,
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they are attended with some inconvenience if precautions be not taken in duly shortening sail previous to entering them. Weather – The only difference between winter and summer as far as regards the winds is the frequency of light northerly airs during the former months; but in the winter the difference in climate is far greater than one would imagine in so low a latitude. In the summer the weather is delightfully fine, with the thermometer seldom below 70 and often as high as 80, in a vessel’s cabin; but during winter the air is raw and damp, with thick fogs and a cloudy, overcast sky. Cloth clothing is then necessary for the security of health; flannel shirts and wool vests are … and frequently smell of wood smoke when they are hung in a hallway or hanging locker whereas in summer the lighter one is clad the more conducive it is to comfort and health. The dews at night in the north counties where the fogs are dense and occasional rains are noted, are caused by the land winds which sweep along the perpetual snows of the higher Sierra Nevadas. Tides – The action of the tides is feeble along the whole coast, the rise and fall being at no place more than 7 feet. Rivers – This section of California possesses no considerable rivers, although numerous streams which descend from the Sierras have furrowed deep valleys across the breadth of the country. Some of these streams are navigable by a small steamer or fishing vessels especially the Sacramento. Passages – With regard to making passages in sailing vessels along this coast, little difficulty is found in going to the southward. A fair offing is all that is requisite to insure any vessel making a certain port in a given number of days. But in working to the northward some degree of skill and constant attention are necessary.
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Production – In the northern part, in consequence for the abundant moisture, the mountain slopes are densely covered with evergreen forests; the chief industries are lumbering and fishing. The central and southern parts of the country are the most productive agricultural regions: wheat, maize, barley, oats, beans, peas, lentils, hemp, flax, hops and potatoes are grown extensively; the vine and all European fruits flourish. Large herds of cattle and horses are grazed upon the extensive pasturelands along the valleys. Best, David
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