Eating in Provence

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                                     Eating in Provence

      Highlighted names are our favorites and/or good value.
      By law, beginning in 2008, all restaurants and bistros must be non-smoking. Café
       terraces are NOT non-smoking.
      In high season it is best to reserve so that you are not disappointed!
      Restaurants are generally open from 12:00--2:00 for lunch and 7:30--9:00 for
      It is best to verify open days and hours with the restaurants, since these often
       change in France.
      When calling with an American phone, omit the ―0‖ before the number ―4‖.

Lower Cost Eating Tips:
* Have the "menu"--it is always less expensive, and the French always have it. You may
have something delicious that you otherwise would not have tried.
* Have a "carafe" of water instead of bottled eau minerale.
* Go out to eat at lunch instead of dinner; lunch menus are cheaper.
* Wine is much cheaper in France than in the U.S. and Canada for the same quality. If you
like wine, consider getting a bottle rather then several glasses. And if you have some left
over, ask to take the bottle: "Est-ce que je peux emporter la bouteille?

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Planning a trip to Paris and Provence? Click here (make click here a live link to
tripsketch) to plan your activities. The website we are directing you to, offers a logistics based trip planner allowing you to create an
interesting and realistic itinerary of activities. We have contributed much of the attraction
information and all the suggested restaurants to the site, make sure you try one or two!
Simply type Paris (or another city) and your visit dates into the plan now box and get
going! Soon the site will offer users the ability to plan visits to all the major French
attractions, but for now, we offer suggestions for Paris, Avignon, Vaison-la-Romaine,
Marseilles and Nice. Safe travels!

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                                  84110 Vaison-la-Romaine

Vaison Taxi +33 (0)6 22 28 24 49     +33 (0)4 90 28 87 44
Taxi des Dentelles +33 (0)4 90 46 89 42

Bistrot du'O
Rue du Chateau Haute Ville
84110 Vaison
+33 (0)4 90 41 72 90
Closed all day Sunday and Monday noon
Lunch 19 or 28 euros
Dinner 28 euros

Located on the Rue du Chateau in the Medieval Village, the Bistrot du'O is a trendy,
modern bistro, in an ancient building with stone walls and vaulted ceilings which create a
classy, yet comfortable ambiance. There are 2 seasonal menus at lunch, 19 and 28 euros,
and one 28 euro menu at dinner; you have the choice of two dishes for each of the three
courses. The food is always interesting, creative, well prepared. The menu changes almost
daily but the meal usually starts with a fresh chick pea dip or tapenade, and scrumptious
warm bread. You might then be served a red tuna tataki au wasabi, cilantro marinated
shrimp and perche ceviche, a rabbit rillette with a fig salad, an interesting piece fresh
tuna ― salade nicoise,‖ a roasted quail with local mushrooms, or a thick pork chop with a
salad. The seared foie gras with a glass of Muscat Beaumes de Venise is a revelation.
Service is very good. Owned by the Dutch chef (Raoul Reichrath) of Le Grand Pre and Yves
Gras from Domaine Santa Duc, the word ―du’O‖ is a play on words. Laurent is the manager
and sommelier; he speaks English and has lived in California. A ―must‖ if you are in Vaison.

There is a new chef in 2008 but he seems to have maintained the quality. And given that
one of the area's best winemakers is part owner and the chef's Mexican wife is a French
trained sommelier, the wine list is excellent and very well priced: there is a page of 15 euro
wines, another of 20 euro wines, and one of 25. In addition there are wines by the glass
and some very special wines in higher price categories--"l'autre Liste.‖

Alert: Best to reserve in busy seasons. Sunday/Monday hours can change.

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Le Grand Pre

+33 (0)4 90 46 18 12
Route de Vaison-la-Romaine
84110 Roaix

Menu 32 to 72 euros; a la carte 75-100
Evening prices: 40-70 euros

Wonderful one star restaurant located on the road from Vaison to Roaix. Flora et Raoul
Reichrath (she the sommelier, he the chef) have created a romantic and sophisticated
place with great service and innovative food; 32 E lunch on week-days--can't be beat! A
small garden for dining.

There are two small and intimate intimate dining rooms with a warm ambiance. You will
receive a charming reception from the ever smiling and pleasant Flora. The wine list is
excellent; Flora has put the very best of Rhone wines on it. Service is impeccable.
A cooking school and wine tasting classes are held from November to February when the
restaurant is closed.

Alert: Closed mid- November to January except for cooking classes and wine tastings

Le Bateleur
+33 (0)4 90 36 28 04
Closed Monday. (check days in summer)
Place Theodore Aubanel

Located near the Roman bridge, 2008 has seen a total changeover at this established
Vaison restaurant. The former owner left to pursue a career in wine, and the owners of "Le
Mesclun" in Seguret have taken over. A new chef came in with the change of ownership,
and this has not been for the better. The food is not quite as well prepared, and is a little
less original. Nevertheless it is still a fine place. Service is friendly and very competent.

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Auberge Le Bartavelle
Place Sus Auze, Vaison
+33 (0)4 90 36 02 16
22-50 euros
Closed Monday and Fri lunch

Despite its awkward and hard-to-find location next to the hospital, the Auberge La
Bartavelle is another favorite of locals. The welcome and service are very warm. The
dining room has a lovely Provencal motif, honoring Provencal novelist Marcel Pagnol. The
cooking is excellent, creative, and high quality. The menus are very well priced and 4(the
28 euros menu is an especially good value; however, the wine and other drinks are a bit
high priced.

22, Cours Taulignan
+33 (0)4 90 28 80 14
Open Tues--Fri at lunch, Wed, Fri Sat nights (check--it might be closed)
Closed from Christmas to Easter

Mosaik seems to be a throwback to the hippie days of the 60s'. The staff is very casual,
and service is not terribly professional. You cannot always tell when it will be open. But
the chef, Helene, is a lovely woman who might come out to ask you how you like your food,
especially if you have made a special request. (The menu is a bit carb heavy, but she will
graciously prepare a green salad.) The food --from the Antilles, Thailand, Africa, --is
interesting, well-priced, and a nice change for Vaison. There is a lovely bamboo garden for
outside dining. Good place for vegetarians.

+ 33 (0)4 90 28 79 10
55, rue Trogue Pompée
behind the post office on a small street
Closed Sunday and Monday.
12:00—1:30; 7:30—9:00
20-40 euros

Italian cuisine, a bit pricey for Vaison, but very good. Everything a la carte. Greeting and
service not up to par, especially for the prices.
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32, Cours Taulignan
+33 (0)4 90 36 08 30
Closed Sat noon and all day Sunday
Ope Mon- Friday lunch and dinner
Lunch: 13-25 euros
Dinner 19-33 euros

L'Alchimiste is a rather stark, modern establishment, striking with its black décor, open
only several years. The food is very good, fresh and well prepared. The menus are a very
good value. At lunch you can have 3 courses for 15 euros, or an entrée and a main course
for 13 euros, or even just one course for 9 euros. For example, for 15 euros you might
have a mixed salad, and meat or fish, all nicely done, plus profiteroles, or crème brulee.

There are more elaborate menus for 19, 25 and 33 euros with 4-5 choices per category.
The first Thursday of the month is "Sushi Night"--if possible, please reserve 48 hours

Serge Auget
Located near the Tourist Office

Serge Auget’s eponymous bistro just opened late in 2008. He serves traditional, honest
cuisine. The food is quite fresh, and is of very good value.

             Best cafes: most located on the Place Monfort (Vaison)
Maison Lesage
Tel/fax: +33 (0)4 90 36 00 94
Place Monfort
Closed Thursday, and late afternoons
Cost: 6-15 euros

Maison Lesage (previously "Le Pain Romain") is a salon de the, restaurant, boulangerie, and
patisserie with an excellent location on the Place Montfort. It is a nice, low key spot in
town for a snack or light meal. They have a good selection of teas, coffees, and hot

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chocolate, and their breads and pastries are excellent. The restaurant serves a simple
12.5 euro lunch which includes a salad, meat or fish, dessert and glass of wine. They also
feature large salads, omelettes, meats, some sandwiches (in the case) and desserts. The
tea room is open in the afternoon, but they close for dinner, and all day Thursday. The
terrace is always full in nice weather.

Annex Café
Place Monfort
Closed Mondays, except in summer.

Serves the best coffee in Vaison and simple meals; great gathering place for locals and
tourists. You can also find salads, savory and sweet buckwheat (sarasin) galettes (crepe-
like); ice cream specials, wines and alcoholic beverages.

Chez Anne-Marie
Rue Paul Buffhaven, just off the Place Monfort, right after the Galerie Montfort and
before the Café des Arts . Across from Les Gourmandines. A small café and tea room,
newly opened in 2008. Crepes, breakfasts, salads, coffee and teas.

La Fleur de Sel
+33 (0)4 90 36 33 30
5, rue Paul Buffaven

A small creperie (crepe restaurant) on a side street in Vaison, just off the Place Montfort
towards the Cour Toulignan. The welcome is warm, the food very good; the chef loves to
experiment. Good value.

Le Bistroquet
Cours Taulignan
A small bar and bistro, and a favorite of local friends. Meals are simple, around 14 euros
for 3 courses, and can be very good.

Le Bonheur Suit son Cours
+33 (0)4 90 46 45 27
20, Cours Taulignan
Cost 15-30 e

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A modern wine bar, with well prepared, simple, light food. This is a good place to try some
very good bottles from the Rhone Valley, as well as elsewhere, many of which are organic.
Also a wine shop. Very good, per our Canadian renters.

Pizzeria de Vieux Vaison
7, Place du Poids
+33 (0)4 90 36 19 45
Price 15-30 euros

A nice place in the medieval town serving pizzas, salads and meats. Very popular.
Alert: Must reserve in high season.

                               Shopping for Food in Vaison

Le Pontias Boucherie
Rue du Maquis
The street name isn't posted, but the butcher shop is on the street that runs right just as
you reach the Place Montfort coming from the apartment, and the corner of the Cours
Taulignan. Giles is the friendly young butcher. He has a wonderful choice of house baked
ham (jambon cuit) that he does himself, sausages, salami, and amazing meats and poultry.
He specializes in marinated lamb--agneau marine-- (about 25 euros a kilo, you will see it in
vacuum packed bags.) He also carries duck breast (magret de canard,) pork, beef,
chickens, and some prepared foods. I like to ask him how he recommends cooking his
meats. Prices are listed on cards on the glass case.

Boucherie J-C Raymond
+33 (0)4 90 36 00 50
65 Grande Rue     next to Credit Lyonnais and near Maison de la Presse

Small but very good butcher. Some prepared foods (potato gratin, ratatouille, pates)
with excellent but pricey roasted chickens on week-ends (order ahead to be sure.)

Lou Canesteou Cheese Shop
+33 (0)4 90 36 31 30
10. rue Raspail    just off the Place Monfort by the Pain des Moisson bakery.
84110 Vaison
Open Sun and Mon am; 8-12:30

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Tues-Sat 8-12:30; 3-7

Lou Canestou is simply the very best cheese shop in the region. Josiane and Christian Deal
have owned the shop since 1989 and have become well known thorughout the region as the
hard working, dedicated owners. Several years ago Josiane was awarded the "Meilleur
Ouvrier de France" by President Jacques Chirac. This prestigious award is intended to
recognize the best craftspeople in France and is given after a very stringent exam.

Josiane and Christian belong to a small, elite group of cheese purveyors who are
―affineurs‖—after selecting the best cheeses from all over France, they age the cheese
themselves. The shop has an excellent choice of cheeses from all over France, and
supplies the best restaurants in the region. The owners are very helpful; we have asked
them to vacuum pack cheese (―mettre sous vide‖) so we can take it back more easily to the
U.S. In addition to cheese, Lou Canestou carries yogurt, butters, hams, duck confit,
pates, well selected local wines, preserves, honey, and other epicurean items. Both Josiane
and Christian speak a little English. Local resident and France food expert Patricia Wells
is a fan and you will often find her or her husband shopping here.


La Banaste d'Annelise
26 cours Taulignan

New fruit and vegetable market with only fresh, local produce, juices, and herbs. The
owner is very helpful.

Les Gourmandines
4 r Paul Buffaven just behind the Place Montfort, toward Cours Taulignan

Run by a lovely local mother and daughter, Les Gourmandines carries a large choice of
excellent fruits and vegetables, as well as some cheeses, wine, juices, and other local
products. A bit expensive.

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There is a small organic market from small local growers, open on Tuesday and Saturday
morning. Place Francois Cevert, next to the Espace Culturel on the Avenue Francois

                                           Other bakeries and Patisseries

Note: to get your bread sliced, ask for "tranché" (trawn-shay)

+33 (0) 4 90 36 04 91
5, cours Henri Fabre
Open: Tues-Fri 8 -- 13; 15-19. Sunday and holidays: 7:30--19. Closed Monday

The quality of shops in Vaison-la-Romaine is constantly on the upswing, and Peyrerol is a
recent testament of that. Peyrerol carries the best croissants, pains au chocolat, brioches
and dessert pastries, as well as house made chocolate bars and chocolate candies. The
quality is excellent, and the price is a bit higher than other shops. Famous for their
wonderful ―macarons‖—with a slightly crunchy outside, and a delicious, creamy filling,
Peyrerol makes a very colorful and tasty selection of macarons—chocolate, vanilla, café,
strawberry, rose, and many others. In summer the shop also makes great ice creams.
Worth a detour; the residents count themselves lucky to have this upscale patisserie in

Les Pains de Provence
Robert and Lucette Fourteau
Near Place Montfort and rue du Maquis
+33 (0)4 90 36 17 27

I especially like the quiche lorraine cut into big squares from a sheet pan. A good value,
and delicious. Madame is very nice.

Pain des Moissons
Place Monfort
Organic bakery with dense, hearty breads made with lots of interesting, delicious and
unusual grains.
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Emile Bec
Route de Nyons
This is a fairly new bakery that quickly became popular with the locals. They also carry

See also Lesage, under "cafes."

                          Restaurants and Bistros around Vaison

Le pont de l'Orme
+33 (0)4 90 46 17 50
Closed Tues & Wed.

Located in an old home set back among the trees just outside Malaucene, the Pont de
l'Orme is peaceful and relaxing, but service can be slow in summer. Excellent food, and
very popular--must reserve in season. Excellent value and very good food; the 15 euro
menu at lunch is an amazing value; meals are around 30 euros at dinner.

Directions: Coming from Vaison, take the road to Malaucene. Just before arriving in the Centre, take the
road on the right to Suzette, then turn at the sign a few 100 ft on the right.

Restaurant le St Hubert
+33 (0)4 90 46 00 05
Closed Tues & Wed.

Named after the patron of the hunt, the St. Hubert is located in the small town of
Entrechaux, not too far from Vaison or Mt. Ventoux. You might say that the style here is
"vieille France‖--Le St. Hubert is charming, old fashioned, and definitely not sleek and hip.
Service is very friendly and helpful. The rooms are very old fashioned, though the smaller
one is quite cozy, and with its fireplace is a great spot in the fall and winter. The room is
decorated with stags' heads and rifles, since game is a specialty, in season. In nicer
weather there is a large terrace, which is often crowded.

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Clients are a mix of older French couples --perhaps celebrating a family birthday--, young
workers, other locals and tourists. At 15 euros, lunch is an amazing deal, with three
courses (but no choice.) A winter lunch might be a very large dish of mussels in cream
sauce, a quail with vegetables, and house made chestnut ice cream. If you want more
choice there are also menus at 26.5, 38 and 49.5 euros. Portions are huge.

The restaurant serves truffles in season, wild boar, hare, deer, foie gras, many sorts of
terrines, beef and shellfish. There is a scrumptious cheese tray. The wine list is very
reasonable. There are lots of local wines priced from 16 -30 euros. You are given a carafe
of water without having to ask for it. Supposed to have a great bouillabaisse but it must be

Directions: Coming from Vaison, drive towards Malaucene. Around Le Crestet look for the "Entrechaux".
Then look for the sign "St. Hubert" 50 m before the town square, turn left down a side road.

Alert: Open for Sunday lunch but you must reserve. It fills up fast since there are not
many restaurants open on Sunday.

Le tourne au Verre
Route de Saint Cecile
84290 Cairanne
+33 (0)4 90 30 72 18

The "Tourne au Verre, " located on the main road in the wine village of Cairanne under the
sycamore trees, is a wine bar and restaurant, with new owners since 2007-- the former
sommelier from the 3 star Regis Marcon. The no-choice lunch menu includes one
appetizer, main course and dessert written on a blackboard, all for 13 euros! An
excellent value. There is a large selection of wines by the glass (3-7 euros) and bottle.
Food ranges from good to excellent. If you go in good weather, ask for a table on the
terrace. The bistro is very popular and a good place to try local as well as other Rhone
Valley wines. A great add to this wine-growing area.

La Loupiote
+33 (0)4 90 36 29 50
84110 Le Crestet
12-20 euros

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Located on the road to Malaucene, about 3.5 km. from Vaison, just after the Crestet
roundabout, this is a large, friendly place that is very popular with locals and foreigners
with second homes in the area. Reasonable prices. Very popular, best to reserve. Mostly
excellent pizzas and grilled meats.

(For a great hike, cross the road to the ―Route de Sainte Anne‖ and walk up to the medieval village of ―Le
Crestet," or walk another 1-2 km to the Chateau de Verriere.)

Le Panoramic Bar-Glacier
Le Crestet
+33 (0)4 90 28 76 42
+33 (0)6 09 36 49 09
Open April –September 20, lunch and dinner

Le Panoramic is a tiny café on the top of the exquisite medieval village of Le Crestet, and
is the only eating establishment in the village. The café is tucked into the stone buildings
on top where the view of the valley is superb! Best to stop for a coffee or ice cream,
though they do serve some food, it is not the best. There are several parking areas if you
drive up. This village is a must if you are in the region. If you want a meal, try La
Loupiote at the bottom of the hill on the road to Malaucene, Le St. Hubert or another cafe
in Entrechaux, or one of the many places in Vaison.

Located on the road to Malaucene, about 3.5 km. from Vaison. Just after the Crestet roundabout, take the
―Route de Sainte Anne‖ up the hill. You can drive up or walk, but be sure to wander the cobblestone streets
of the village.

La Maison Bleue
Tel. +33 (0)4 90 28 97 02
15-25 euros

Located a few miles from Vaison, this is an excellent place for pizza on a wonderful
summer evening, sitting in the tree shaded "place". Villedieu is a wonderful village that
merits a visit; why not include lunch or dinner? The pizza is a thin crusted Provencal

Auberge d'Anais
+33 (0)4 90 36 20 06
Route de Saint Marcellin Les Vaison

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Closed Mon
Lunch menu 10 e week-days only lunch; includes wine
Dinner menu 16-20-28

The Auberge d’Anais is a simple place in the countryside about ten minutes from Vaison.
If you want a change of pace and some traditional Provencal food, this is the place. There
are lots of locals, and only tourists in-the-know. The ten euro prix fixe lunch includes an
appetizer and main course (no choice for these 2) plus a choice of desserts, and 5-6 oz of
wine. Best to eat on the terrasse.
See for sample menus.

Take the road to Malaucene (at the roundabout near the Super U,) then take the left turn to St. Marcellin.
Follow the signs and go about 5-10 min on a dirt road.

Le Girocedre
+33 (0)4 90 46 50 67

Closed Monday except holidays; closed Oct-Easter; Open lunch and evening

Le Girocedre is another very casual Provencal place in the countryside just outside Vaison.
We were introduced to this place by our French realtor. Barbecue in summer in the
garden. Can be crowded with locals and some tourists.

Au Délice de Provence
+33 (0)4 90 28 16 91
6, La Placette, Valreas
Closed Tues and Wed
Located in an historic house in the center. Good Provencal cuisine. A favorite of locals.                    .
Recommended by Vaison resident Nancy Kittle.

La Vielle France
+33 (0)4 75 96 70 47          direction St Paul les 3 Chateaux; 1.2 km route La Garde Adhemar;
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closed lunch except Sun
25, 35 45 euro menus

A lovely Provencal mas in the countryside with contemporary décor. The exquisite garden
terrace provides an elegant and romantic dining experience. The food is excellent, light
and refined food.

L et Lui
+33 (0)4 75 46 61 14
2 r Charles-Chaussy, St Paul Trois Chateaux.
 12--14:30, 20-22:30 daily; Fri & sat evenings, Closed Sunday

Lots of fresh herbs; organic veggies from Madame's garden.

Le Laurier
Place Chapelle
84110 FAUCON
Tél. : +33 (0)4 90 46 55 54

Faucon is a tiny but beautiful stone village with outstanding views. Le Laurier is a low-key
restaurant serving simple but well prepared Provencal food
In good weather you can sit on the terrace view a lovely view of the town square and a
fountain. Service is good. The wine list includes the local organic wines from La Roche, in

Le petit caveau
9, Victor Hugo
+33 (0)4 75 26 20 21
26110 Nyons--about 20 min north of Vaison.
Closed Sun and Wed evenings, all day Monday.

Excellent food and a very good value; in a small, intimate and cozy environment.
For a YouTube video:

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+33 (0)4 90 65 85 30
Place de la Mairie
84190 Gigondas
Open daily June 15-Sept 21; Closed Tues in shoulder seasons.

Owned by the Gabriel Meffre wine growers (Dom de Longue Toque, Gigondas);since 2004
with a new chef. Wonderful setting in a nicely restored historic house in the village; enjoy
lunch or dinner outside and watch the village . Refined cuisine, good selection of local
wines. 20-55 euros.

Campagne, Vigne & Gourmandises
Tel: +33 (0)4 90 63 40 11
Route de Suze la Rousse
84290 Ste.Cécile la Vigne
Open daily exc Monday in Season; off season closed Mon and Tues

Menus at 21, 31, 41 and 51 euros (

A very creative and modern menu in this lovely restaurant located in prime cotes-du-
Rhone growing area, just opened in the summer of 2007 by Sylvie and Sulvain Fernandez.
The restaurant is located just outside the town of Sainte Cecile les Vignes,

Very good wine list with lots of excellent, local wines. good prices. Located just outside
the village on the road to Suze la Rousse. Menus reflect simplicity and passion for the local
market's offerings.

For more restaurants around Vaison, please see: http://www.provence-

Le Mesclun

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Rue des Poternes
+33 (0)4 90 46 93 43

                                       84000 Avignon


Situated on the the Rhone river, Avignon has a long and rich history. Most children have
heard about Avignon through the »Pont d’Avignon » nursery rhyme. But Avignon has much
more to offer than the ruin of a 12th century bridge and great central location for
visiting Provence and the Camargue.

Avignon was home to the Pope in the 14th century and during this century the city
attracted a vibrant international crowd, with many Italians moving to the city, including
the poet Petrarch. Under the Papacy, the town thrived and grew eight-fold. The world's
largest Gothic edifice is the Palais des Papes, which is now the principal tourist attraction
and towers over the city. UNESCO has chosen the Papal Palace and St Benezet Bridge as
world heritage sites.

Today, magnificent medieval ramparts surround the city as you enter. Small, charming
streets wind through the town and there are many pedestrian walkways. This city of
90,000 is home to French and international university students all year long, adding a
spirited ambiance. Stylish shops and many excellent restaurants attract tourists, and
gracious town squares offer an excuse to linger over a cafe creme. Lately some
outstanding wine bars have opened to showcase stellar, local and great value Rhone Valley

The summer can be very hot, but the summer Festival d’Avignon makes it the place to be.
Non French speakers enjoy the concerts and dance performances. All year long the famous
Mistral can make some winter days quite frigid as it whips down the Rhone, but it is also
credited for the sunny climate and clear air of Provence.

La Mirande

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+33 (0)4 90 14 20 20
Fax : +33(0)4 90 86 26 85
4, place la Mirande near the Papal Palace

Menu 35--105
A la carte: 95
Restaurant open: 12 to 2; 7:30--10
Open daily; but closed Jan
Lunch: 35 euro market menu week-days; a la carte 70-85
Dinner: 70-105

The Restaurant of La Mirande hotel has one well-deserved Michelin star (out of a possible
3 stars) and may be the best restaurant in Avignon. Located in Avignon’s best hotel, you
will not only have a splendid meal, but you will luxuriate in centuries’ old décor and

In the sumptuous Cardinalice dining room you are surrounded by tasteful luxury---a 17th
century Brussels tapestry decorates the room, crowned by a Renaissance ceiling. Provencal
antiques grace the spacious room. On warm days you can eat or have a drink on the
elegant, shaded terrace garden which faces the Palais des Papes. A large fireplace warms
and brightens the dining room in the winter.

The food is classic French with many Provencal touches, and of course the offerings are
organic, seasonal and from the best purveyors. You might find foie gras, oysters, wild
mushrooms, scallops, perfectly prepared preparations of fish and meats, Meals are
always innovative, without being overdone. The wine list is exceptional and the easy-going
sommelier gives excellent advice, whether you would like a glass or a bottle of wine. The
service is usually top notch, up to par with the quality of the food, but occasionally slips.

Foodies should take advantage of the ―Marmiton‖ cooking school; some of the best chefs
of the region teach cooking classes here, held in the 19th century kitchen with a wood
burning cooking stove and around a huge table.

Alert: To experience this splendor without paying a 70 or more euros, try the "market"
lunch during the week, about 35 euros.

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La Fourchette
+33 (0)4 90 85 20 93
17 rue Racine
84000 Avignon
Closed Sat & Sun.
Lunch 25-31 euros
Dinner 31 euros
Mon-Fri 12:15-1:45pm and 7:15-9:45pm
Closed 3 weeks in August

La Fourchette is a delightful Provencal bistro and a favorite of locals. Easy to find behind
the town hall in Avignon, the restaurant is charming with a country décor— including a
collection of forks and implements for food decorating the walls, along with posters for
the ―festival d’Avignon.‖ The food is delicious and a great value, as can be evidenced by
the repeat business. They prepare wonderful, traditional dishes and there is a lot of
choice on the 3 course ―menu,‖ e.g. daube de boeuf, cailletes, pieds et paquets, foie gras,
chicken, and fish. You will be sure to find many dishes that will enjoy. The wine list has
lots of delicious and affordable local bottles, the staff is very pleasant and helpful, and
the ambiance is comfortable and relaxing. The room is bright and airy, and always bustling.
Unfortunately they are closed on Saturday and Sunday.

Alert: Best to reserve since it is always busy, especially at lunch.

Restaurant La Vieille Fontaine Hotel d'Europe
14, Place Crillon
84000 Avignon
 +33 (0)4 90 14 76 76
Fax +33 (0)4 90 14 76 71
14, place Crillon
84000 Avignon

Tuesday to saturday 12pm - 2pm
Tuesday to saturday 7:30pm - 10pm
Jan 2-9, feb 22—mar ; nov 22-30

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The 4 star Hotel d'Europe, the former ―hotel particulier‖ (luxury home) of the Marquis
de Graveson, was built by the Marquis in the 1580; it became a hotel around 1700. The
hotel and restaurant are located on the exquisite Place Crillon, near the river and
remparts. You pass through the iron gates of the hotel, and then enter a large, tranquil
courtyard with a fountain, instantly transported back to an earlier, more relaxing era. It
is fitting that an historic and illustrious place have a wonderful restaurant.

Bruno d'Angelis is the talented chef, and La Vieille Fontaine is one of the very top
restaurants in Avignon, one which has earned one Michelin star (out of 3 possible.) The
dining room is large, elegant but comfortable, with well spaced tables, and in nice weather
you can dine on enclosed courtyard. Dining on exquisite food in the historic courtyard on a
warm summer evening is the epitome of hedonism. Service is polished and sophisticated,
but not stuffy.

 All products are the finest; vegetables are the best available in the region. The
restaurant has a large and well chosen wine selection, and an excellent sommelier. At lunch
during the week a 35 euro menu is offered, and is an excellent value that many locals take
advantage of. Chef Bruno holds cooking classes for small groups to teach Provencal cooking.
If you are driving, you exit the perimeter road at at the Porte d’Oulle.

Alert: the hotel has a classy bar where locals often stop in during the day for a coffee,
afternoon tea, or a drink.

Christian Etienne
+33 (0)4 90 86 16 50
10 rue Mons

One of the city's top places; great terrace for outdoor dining.
Famous for its all tomato menu from June-Sept.

L'Isle Sonnante
+33 (0)4 90 82 56 01
Fax +33 (0)4 90 82 56 01
7, r Racine
Menu 24, 30-55
Retour du Marche: menu at 24 euros
Closed Sun and Mon except in July; Feb school vacations; from Aug 15-Sept 1

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Hours: 12-2; 7-9

This small, stylish family run restaurant takes its name from Rabelais's description of
Avignon as the ringing island--because of the incessant sound of church bells tolling. It is
very easy to find since it is located on the Rue Racine, right behind the Theatre and the
Place de l’Horloge.

L’Isle Sonnante has excellent food and is a very good value. Some of the simple, Provencal
specialties include raviolis with cepes and foie gras; wild game; rabbit loin stuffed with
local olives; shrimp risotto; cheeses from the best regional purveyor; and wonderful
desserts. The greeting and service are warm and friendly. The 24 euro ―retour du
Marche‖ fixed menu is composed of fresh, seasonal products that the chef finds that
morning at Les Halles market. The food is delicious; additional menus have four or five
choices for each course. The décor is classy and sophisticated with rose colored walls,
Provencal wooden furniture, a brass bar, and lovely table settings. The short wine list
includes only Cotes du Rhone wines, with a good selection. A small terrace is available for
summer dining

Vinoe et CO
31 rue Saint Jean le Vieux
Tel. +33 (0)4 90 86 31 29
Cell. +33 (0)6 17 15 90 04
15-30 E; glass of wine starting at 4 euros
Closed Wed and Saturday
Open 12-2 ; 7 :30 -- 10

Vinoe et Co is an excellent, small wine bar and bistro that opened in 2008 with great
pedigree. The owner, a trained sommelier, Michel Granier-Poncet, once worked for Pierre
Gagnaire in Paris and at Avignon’s own La Mirande. He opened Vinoe et Co with his friend
and sommelier, the humorous Fabrice Langlois. Fabrice was the sommelier and wine
director at the world famous Chateau de Beaucastel in nearby Chateauneuf-du-Pape.
Fabrice lived and worked in Atlanta for 6 years and speaks perfect English. In fact both
Michel and Fabrice speak English.

Though it is somewhat hidden away behind Place Pie, near Avignon's main market, Les
Halles, the bistro is well worth searching out. There is a large, very well priced wine list;
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Michel and Fabrice have access to and searched out the best and most sought after
wines and producers from all over France, over 140 great Rhones, Burgundies, Bordeaux,
plus wines from other French regons; bottles can range from 15 euros to severall hundred
euros. They pour at least 10 wines served by the glass starting at less than 4 euros. Of
course the wines come with friendly advice from a very knowledgeable sommelier.

The food is fresh, original and prepared to a demanding but unpretentious standard.
Dishes are composed with the goal of setting off the wines. They serve lots of delicious
first courses from which you can make a meal, but just one main dish, e.g. cote de bœuf.
There is a cheese course, plus some very nice desserts. The dining room, ambiance and
décor are delightful. Check their web site for sample menus and wine lists. Local
winemakers frequent the wine bar and bistro, as do Avignon locals and tourists. An
excellent place—if you are in Avignon and enjoy wine, a must-go.

+33 (0)4 90 25 21 04
5 r Tremoulet
84000 Avignon
 Fax :+33 (0)4 90 25 21 04
Open: Tues—Fri lunch and dinner, Sat night
Closed: Sat lunch, Sunday, Monday
Hours: 11 am –10 pm
Price: 10-20 euros

AOC is a wonderful new wine bar serving great wines at reasonable prices and wonderful,
light meals. AOC is a government designation of wine quality; the owners are passionate
about wine and serve many good value wines by the glass. Bottles are available for

The young owners, Christophe and Julie, will give you a warm welcome. The décor of this
small establishment is attractive but unpretentious; the food is light and delicious,
perfect for a lunch or light dinner. For example, you might get a platter of charcuterie,
pate or rillettes, an eggplant dish, duck with orange, cheeses. Wine prices are excellent
so you can treat yourself to a nice Chateauneuf-du-Pape, or other regional wine. You can
find AOC off a small pedestrian shopping street (between the busy Rue Rouge/Bonneterie
and Rue Vieux Sextier) in the heart of historic Avignon. There is a small terrasse on the

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pedestrian walkway.The staff is very helpful and freely gives advice on wine. This little
spot is so pleasant that you may want to come back often.

Alert: no reservations

Les 5 sens
+33 (0)4 90 85 26 51
Fax +33 (0)4 90
18 rue Joseph Vernet
84000 Avignon
Lunch menu: 15-20
Dinner menu: 42; a la carte 60

For a change from Provencal food, try Le 5 Sens (the 5 senses) located in a courtyard just
off the rue Joseph-Vernet, Avignon's classiest shopping street. The food is delicious,
with well flavored dishes

L’Epice and Love
+33 (0)490824596
Avignon 84000, France
15-30 euros

Chantal, who has lived in the US and speaks great English. From Marseilles, she does all the
cooking herself. The dinner menu is 18 Euros for 3 delicious, fresh and generous courses.
She alwayas has a vegetarian option. This is a very modest and neighborhood restaurant
that also accepts credit cards. This is a great option for solo travelers.

 The restaurant has tables outside in nice weather. Great dishes: rabbit cooked in a ginger
saucethe cherry and apricot crumble is fantastic. Excellent value.

Rue des Lices is a continuation of Rue Joseph Vernet. Prices: €15-30. 30 Rue des Lices,

La Vache a Carreaux
+33 (0)4 90 80 09 05

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14, rue Peyrollerie
84000 Avignon
Price : 15-25 euros
Open : daily but evenings only
Sunday-Thurs 7—10 :30
Fri and Sat 7 :30—11 :30

La Vache a Carreaux, a small, charming restaurant and wine bar, is located a few steps
away from the southern part of the Palais des Papes, and close to la Place de la Mirande,
off the tourist route on the quaint, windy road cut through the rock. The restaurant
specializes in cheese dishes, presented in delicious and surprising preparations. You get a
comfortable, homey feel in this ancient building, with its great exposed beams, and a
whimsical decorating theme --―cows on the farm.‖

The greeting and ambiance are warm and said to be the most friendly in Avignon. The
servers are very pleasant and attentive, dressed casually in jeans, white shirts and aprons.
Wines are excellent and very well priced, well described by the sommelier to facilitate
your choice. Many are available by the glass.

The restaurant serves an impressive number of fine cheeses from around France, though
the menu is not limited entirely to cheese. There are ten first and second courses,
presented on a large blackboard which is passed around the room. For example, you might
taste a gratin of goat cheese presented as sort of a crème brulee, with salad and small
toasts; or a baked Camenbert with garlic and white wine, served with a salad and baked
apple. First courses are priced 7-9 euros, second courses at 10-15 euros.

Due to the excellent food and wine and the great value, the restaurant is very popular
with locals and tourists so you need to reserve, even out of season, especially on Friday and
Saturday nights.

Alert: great for vegetarians and wine and cheese lovers

+33 (04) 90 85 87 12
2, rue Petite Fusterie
84000 Avignon
Closed Sunday exc July.
Open 11 :30- 2 pm and 7 :30-- 10 pm

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Lunch menu 17 euros ; tartines ; 26
Dinner 26-37 e.

Avignon is undergoing a boom in the opening of excellent restaurants and wine bars.
Laurence Chouviat, a highly acclaimed chef from St. Remy de Provence, opened L’Essentiel
in 2008. Located just off the Rue de la Republique on an elegant shopping street across
from the medieval St. Agricol Church, it quickly caught the attention of the avignonais. At
lunch time, along with the regular menu, L’Essentiel has a great « bar a tartines » serving
open faced sandwiches made with world famous Poilane bread and seasonal products. But
this is an excellent restaurant with fresh and refined cuisine, which changes frequently.
For example, you might find open ravioli with aspargus and peas; a ballotine of rabbit; duck;
tuna with a slice of foie gras; roasted fish ; pigeon in Banyuls sauce. Desserts are also
seasonal and scrumptious.

The spacious restaurant has a sophisticated grey and beige interior; there is a peaceful
and stunning shaded interior courtyard for al fresco dining both the restaurant and
courtyard date from the 17th century. The wine list is rather short but very well done,
with excellent choice of wines by the glass. Dominique Chouviat runs the front of the
house; she makes sure that everyone is greeted warmly and that service is good.

Excellent value, beautiful products, innovative and delicious food, great presentation and
warm and welcoming service. Is it any wonder that some guests return night after night ?

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                                          Greater area
Hostellerie Crillon le Brave
+33 (0)4 90 65 61 61

Beautiful hotel and restaurant in the countryside between Avignon (43 k)and Vaison;
Relais & Chateaux

Restaurant Vieux Four
+33 (0)4 90 12 81 39
Bas de Crillon, Crillon-le-Brave; per Denis Begouaussel.
25-30 euros

Simple, delicious Provencal food with a beautiful terrace and view of the surrounding
countryside. The menu is a very good value. The Restaurant is located in the beautiful and
historic village of Crillon-le-Brave—a great place for a walk after lunch or before dinner—
to look at the centuries old homes. A very good value.

                                  84800 L'Ilse sur Sorgue
Famous antique mecca; antique shops only open on Sat-Monday morning. Farmer's Market
Sunday am. Brocante (huge flea market) Sunday from 2:00-6:00.

Jardin du Quai
+33 (0)4 90 20 14 98
Fax +33 (0)4 90 20 31 92
L'Isle surSorgue
91, av Julien Guigue

Closed Tues and Wed
A single menu: 40 euros Sunday lunch, Evenings 40-45; week-day lunch 30-35

Upon entering le Jardin du Quai, I was impressed by the professional greeting I received, and
throughout the meal the young female servers made a delicious meal even more enjoyable. Only
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one menu is available, but you are immediately told, upon presentation of the menu, that you
should not hesitate to tell them if you do not like something; they graciously provide an
alternative. The food is delicious and copious.

This is a surprising spot in the hectic world of antique dealing in L'Isle sur la Sorgue. It is
calm, refined and relaxing, located in a renovated mansion catty-corner from the train
station and next to a large antique salesroom. The dining room is elegant, with an old-
fashioned zinc bar and other antique fixtures, and there is a lovely garden for nice
weather dining. You can also have a tea or coffee in the garden in the afternoon, a respite
from your shopping. The wine list is reasonable, about 28-50 euros a bottle, and of course,
more for champagne.

Chef Daniel Hebet, who gets a lot of attention from the press, came from La Mirande in
Avignon. His food is creative and excellent. The meal is not extravagant, in fact, the chef
could add a little extra something—an hors d’oeuvre or a chocolate with the coffee-- but
it is simple, well prepared and copious. This is the most talked about place in town and is
very popular! Best to reserve. However, given that there is essentially no choice on the
menu, I think that the price is a little high. But perhaps this is the price of eating at a
wonderful place in the Luberon.

Le Vivier
+33 (0)4 90 38 52 80
800 Cours Fernande Peyre
Closed Fri noon, Sat noon, Sun eveing, all day Monday
―Menu du Marche‖ 28 euros, week-day lunch and diner, exc holidays
Menus 43, 70 plus truffle menus in winter

Taken over by new owners in 2005, Le Vivier provides a welcome addition to the high-end
dining scene in L’Isle sur la Sorgue. With one Michelin star, and also praised by Gault-
Millau, the restaurant quickly garnered acclaim. The cuisine is very inventive. Located in a
modern building, there is a terrace overlooking the Sorgue River and the wine list includes
wines from all over France.

Bistro de l'Industrie
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2, quai de la Charite
+33 (0)4 90 38 00 40
L'Isle sur la Sorgue

Along the quai that borders the river, towards the train station. Le Bistro de l’ Industrie is
a very casual place serving, pizza, crepes, salads, meats. Very reasonable, outdoor terrace.
Be sure to reserve on week-ends since it is popular (or just go early and tell them you’ll be
back at a specific time.)

Le Carré d’Herbes
+33 (0)4 90 38 23 97)
13 avenue des Quatre Otages
84800 L'Isle Sur La Sorgue

( Set far back from the main street; enter through the /// .)

If you want to find yourself in the midst of popular antique shops in a place full of antique
dealers, try this bistro, located back from the street, and across the bridge. You will find
many French, English and American antique dealers having lunch in the garden since this is
one of their favroite places. Food is very good

Pain d'Antan
+33 (0)4 90 38 91 47
On RN 100, just outside L'Isle sur la Sorgue heading towards Coustellet

Great boulangerie and Pizza place.

                               84230 Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Chateauneuf-du-Pape is a mecca for lovers of the great and historic wine produced in this
region. The popes, who moved to Avignon in 1370, built their summer palace in this town.
The wineries are usually open daily, and there are several tasting bars.

Vinadea Maison des Vins
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+33 (0)4 90 83 70 69
Open daily, closed at lunch.

Wine tasting is free from approximately 90 domaines in the center of Chateauneuf-du-
Pape. There is no charge, but you can buy a bottle if you like something. This is also a nice
place to meet other tourists interested in wine.

Verger des Papes restaurant and wine shop/tasting room
+33 (0)4 90 83 50 40
4 rue du Château

Even if you don’t plan to eat, it is worth it to take a walk up to the Verger des Papes, just
to see the 360 degree view : Mt. Ventoux and the historic vineyards. Located close to the
remains of the Papal summer palace, the restaurant serves simple, good and fresh food.
They have a choice of about 200 wines and usually a red and white Chateauneuf by the
glass. Try their wine shop, La Cave du Verger.

If driving up to the restaurant, when you are in town follow the direction « Château. » Park in the « Chateau
de Papes » parking lot ; turn left and go down 100+ feet.

La Mere Germaine
+33 (0)4 90 83 54 37
Fax +33 (0)4 90 83 50 27
3, rue du Commandant Lemaitre
15-40 euros
Lunch: 3 course menu: 19.5 euros; or main course and dessert 14 e
Large salads 18-22 euros
23 and 38 euro menus

Nice bistro with terrace right in the center of town; food is classic Provencal, and well
prepared. Service is very good, and accommodating. La Mere Germaine is a favorite of
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local winemakers & The Wine Spectator. It is a wonderful find in this important wine
region since they have an excellent selection of wines. There are about 40 white
Chateauneuf-du-Pape, priced from about 35-115 euros. The large selection of reds ranging
in price from 35 to 420 euros. Cuvee Marie Beurrier ranges from 195 to 350 euros, and
Chateau Rayas ranges from 115 to 220.

                                 Near Orange/Chateauneuf-du-Pape

+33 (0)4 90 40 82 54
Mondragon; RN7north of Orange

Regular Menus at 27, 45 and 110
Truffle menus 60-- 125 euros--a great deal
Closed Sun evening & Mon.

Robert Parker's favorite restaurant in the south of France with perhaps the greatest
Rhone wine list in the world, La Beaugraviere is a family run place. Chef Guy Julien and his
wife Tina are charming and fun. There is a terrace for good weather dining and a large
fireplace for the fall and winter. The restaurant is very popular with locals and Americans
in the wine business. We have seen the U.S. ambassador to France there--his security
detail seems quite out-of-place in the small village.

The restaurant needs updating but overall this is a charming place just off the N7. The
food is fresh and delicious. Monsieur Julien prepares wonderful foie gras, terrines,
pigeon, Especially good are the scallops, lamb, and monkfish. In winter the truffle menus
attract clients from all over--you can have just one or two dishes with truffles, or you can
have an entire tasting menu with truffles for only about 125 euros. An excellent deal, with
lots of truffles. (Try a white Chateauneuf-du-Pape with your truffles.) Though the
restaurant specializes in Rhone wines, they have a very good selection of Burgundies,
especially white Burgundies, since the Rhone doesn't produce a lot of white wines.

See Robert Parker's review:

To get there: driving through Orange is difficult! If you are coming the the Avignon area, take the
autoroute to the Bollene exit. From Vaison, drive to Bollene. At the traffic circle at the autoroute
entrance, take the road just beyond the autoroute entrance, towards "Pont St Esprit." Follow the signs to
Mondragon on the N7. About 40 min. from Vaison.

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Cote Sud Restaurant
+33 (0)4 90 40 66 08
Uchaux, route d'Orange.
 Closed Mon pm, Tues (except July and Aug) and Wed Oct-March.
 Menus: 25-50 euros

An auberge in the village, beautiful dining rooms, nice terrace, very fresh and delicious
food. Nice service.

                                    84200 Carpentras
Huge Friday morning market. Winter truffle market starts at 9 a.m. Brocante on Sunday
morning in the large parking lot all year long. Carpentras can be hard to get around so
please take a map.

Chez Serge
+33 (0)4 90 63 21 24
90, rue Cottier, behind the Post Office
84200 Carpentras
19 euro lunch menu; 20-45 euros

Chez Serge is an excellent bistro in the historic part of Carpentras. Look for it behind the
Post Office--it can be difficult to find. Serge (Serge Gaoukassian, the owner) offers
delicious Provencal, Italian and Armenian food, and is well known for his savory pizzas,
and truffles in season. The food is excellent bistro food, well prepared. Serge has a
wonderful wine list; he is was given France's highest wine related honor--the title
Sommelier of the Year in 2008 --for his in-depth knowledge. Chez Serge is also known for
its friendly and relaxed service.

+33 (0)4 90 63 15 38
rue L'Eveche
Jouvaud is great confiserie and bakery in the center of Carpentras and is well known for
its quality outside the area.
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Fromagerie Vigier
+33 (0)4 90 60 00 17
23 Place de la Mairie

Excellent cheese store, with many good wines.

Chaussures Leblanc
+33 (0)4 9063 14 18
115, r de la Republique
Great, high quality shoe store; 9:30--12:30; 14:30--19:30; CLOSED Sun and Mon

                             13210 St Remy de Provence
A very lovely Provencal town & a great place for restaurants and good shopping. There are
Roman ruins outside town, and Nostradamos is said to have lived here in the 15th century.
Many cafes and bistros line the streets. This is a very elegant place for second homes;
Princess Caroline of Monaco has a home here in the coutryside.

St Remy's week-day market is Wednesday! You will need to park a bit outside of the main
part of town if you go.

La Maison Jaune
+33 (0)4 90 92 56 14
15, rue Carnot,St Remy

Located in an elegant old mansion in the center of town. Evening menus start at 38 euros.
Wine is expensive. It is quite good--supposedly the best in town.

Bistro Decouverte
+33 (0)4 90 92 34 49
19 blvd Victor Hugo,
13210 St Remy
Closed Sun evening and Monday except in high season.
De 12h à 14h30 et de 19h à 22h.
Closed Feb 15--March 15; last 2 weeks of Nov
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Menus 16 and 30 euros
Located on the circular road around St Remy, Le Decouverte is a wonderful small bistro
with a terrace in front. The food is very fresh and seasonal, and very well prepared. The
English speaking sommelier worked for Joel Robuchon as sommelier/wine/buyer. There is
an interesting and well chosen wine list for all tastes and pocketbooks .There is usually a
"plat du jour" for 12-13 euros, an excellent deal, plus other delicious dishes. Wine for sale
in the "cave."
Alert: Best to reserve since this is a popular place.

Bistro des Alpilles
+33 (0)4 90 92 09 17
15 bd Mirabeau St Remy

A friendly bistro w/terrace on the circular road around the town. It is quite popular with
locals and tourists and has a very nice outdoor terrace. Great fish and organic meats;
known for lamb from the wood burning oven. Nice wine list. 12-14 euros prix fixe lunch
menu, although the prix fixe lunch seems less interesting than the Bistro Decouverte.
Alert: Very popular so it is best to reserve, especially on week-ends.

Mistral Gourmand
+33 (0)4 90 92 14 65
12 av Durand-Maillane     St Remy.
 12-15:00; 19:30 --22:30.
 Closed Sunday, and Monday from Nov-March.

Large portions; delicious food.

Château des Alpilles
+33 (0)4 90 92 03 33
Ancienne route de Grès
13210 Saint Remy De Provence

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Le Château des Alpilles is our favorite hotel in St Remy. Located just outside the town, and
within walking distance, this is an elegant mansion, owned by a charming mother and
daughter. They serve simple but delicious and fresh meals with lots of salads, vegetables
and fruits in their small dining room, on the terrace and by the pool. If their dining room
is booked with hotel guests, they may not have room for non-guests.

Origami Nouveau
Ateliers de l'Image.
36 blvd Victor-Hugo
+33 (0)4 90 92 51 50
Sushi bar in the luxurious new hotel.

L'Assiette de Marie
+33 (0)4-90-92-32-14
Rue Jaume Roux,
St Remy
A small restaurant in a "flea market" setting in the old town, serving Corsican-Italian-
French food . Small menu with lots of pasta. A favorite with locals. Charming service.

Moulin St Bernard
+33 (0)4 90 15 47 42
150 route de Maillane
St Remy

The Moulin St. Bernard was opened in 2007 by Sophie (from Chez Bru) in an old mill just
outside the town. It is a modern restaurant and pizzeria in a pleasant setting, also with
excellent grilled dishes. Casual chic. Quickly became very popular, so reserve.

ArteModa Cinecitta
+33 (0)4 90 92 82 20
5, rue du Château et 4bis rue Estrine
13210 Saint Remy De Provence

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Just opened in 2008
Open daily, March- October
October --March open at lunch Tues--Sun, Fri and Sat
Menu à 17€ et 22€.

A new bistro with boutique selling accessories opened in 2008, in the summer Cinecitta is
located in an interior courtyard. In the winter they move indoors to the boutique.

                             Around & Beyond St Remy

Bistro d'Eygalieres          Chez Bru
Tel +33 (0)4 90 90 60 34
Fax +33 (0)4 90 90 60 37
Rue de la Republique--the main street
Eygalieres (13810)

Menus 95 and 120 euros; a la carte 90--125
Closed in winter & early spring.

The Bistro d'Eygalieres Chez Bru is not a bistro at all, but an elegant two star Michelin
restaurant in Eygalieres run by young Belgians Wout Bru and his lovely wife Suzy. It may
be the quintessential restaurant in Provence, and it certainly is one of the best. Eygalieres
is an exquisite small Provencal village, full of the views of the surrounding Alpilles, located
about 15 miles south of Avignon and a few miles from St Remy. The restaurant can be
found right in the heart of town, on the main street, and is located in an old village house.
In addition to the two main dining rooms, there is a small interior courtyard, and terrace.
The décor is refined, with soft olive-gray and cream throughout. The ambiance is warm,
relaxing and inviting, with none of the usual formality and fussiness that comes to mind
when thinking about Michelin starred French dining.

Suzy, who runs the front of the house, is warm, charming and thoughtful. From start to
finish, the meal is exquisite. The food is light, inventive, and local--Bru's take on
Provence. The wine list is excellent with local Rhone and Provence wines as well as great
Burgundies and Bordeaux. You will enjoy a chat with the sommelier. The dining room is full

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of locals, foreigners with a second residence, and a few tourists. Your meal here will be
truly memorable. After lunch, why not walk around town and into the nearby hills?

Must reserve. There are four lovely and stylish guest rooms above the restaurant.
6 miles Southeast of St Remy on D99, then on D24.

Sous les Microcouliers.
+33 (0)4 90 95 94 53
Traverse de Montfort.

Young chef Pierre-Louis Poize came back home after training in Paris. Limited selection of
refined Provecal cuisine, often with a touch of Asian spices and herbs. Lovely terrace for
summer dining--sometimes with a jazz group. Around the corner from the Bistro

+33 (0)4 90 95 98 89
Closed Wed. 12-14 and 19-22.
Used to be the Petit Bru French/Italian. Lovely courtyard

Bar Le Progres
Rue de la Republique--the main street

Great meeting place for locals, tourists, artists, nice "plat du jour" at lunch, or just have a

Mas du Capoun
27, av Paluds,
+33 (0)4 90 26 07 12
Closed Wed & Sat lunch.
Lunch 16 and 30 euros
Dinner 30 euros

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The Mas du Capoun was a large barn which the Belgian owners, former restauranteurs in
Brussels, turned into a dining room. There is also an 18th century farmhouse which is now
a hotel. The classy dining room is large and airy, with white stone walls. The food is
refined, delicious, and very well prepared. Lunch is a fabulous value (16 euros, 3 courses)
and is extremely popular with locals. If you are in this area, this is a must! But you must
call ahead to reserve. Could be hot in warm summer weather.

Directions: From Vaison: take the N7 to St Andiol; take the D99, turn right (Towards St Remy) on D99.
Past Plan d’Orgon, take D31 or D24 into Molleges. OR, take the autoroute, exit Cavaillon, follow the signs to
St Remy; take D31 or D24.

From St Remy, take the D99A and D99 about 10 km to the roundabout; take 3rd exit to D24, then 3rd exit
at "Le Cours" roundabout onto D31 Avenue de Paluds.

Boulangerie au Feu de Bois
St. Andiol
intersection of N7 & D 99;
Great bakery with wood burning oven.

La Cabro d'Or
+33 (0)4 90 54 33 21
Route d'Arles

A one star Michelin, often preferred to the 2 star in the same town (Les Baux) and under
the same ownership. Very high quality Provencal food and a very friendly staff.

La Riboto de Taven
+33 (0)4 90 54 34 23
Chemin du Val d'Efer,
 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence
             Charming Provencal auberge with refined cuisine.

La Place
04 90 54 23 31
65, avenue de la Vallee-des-Baux
Mausanne les Alpilles
       Owned by the family who owns the famous Souleido cloth manufacutring company.
       Nice, per Lynda Martin, who lives nearby

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Domaine de Bournissac
Tel +33 (0)4 90 90 25 25
Fax: +33 (0)4 90 90 25 26
Montee d'Eyragues, Noves (13550);
Dinner: 45, 70, 85

 The Maison de Bournissace is an amazing property in the countryside near St. Remy, an
ideal place to spend a beautiful summer evening on the terrace, or a winter night in the
dining room. There is a beautiful hotel and great restaurant; off the beaten track, and
worth it.

Directions": Take the D571 from St Remy, go thru Eyragues, then take D 29 out in the country; Or take D30
from St Remy and then D29

Hotel du Cotes des Olivades
Vallée des Baux
Avenue Jean-Marie Cornille
13520 Paradou just across the border from Mausanne-les-Alpilles

Andre and Nancy Bourguignon own this delightful small hotel and restaurant in Le Paradou.
The complex is in a beautiful setting with an olive orchard and beautiful gardens. Nancy
previously worked with famous chef Jean-Andre Charial at the nearby Oustau de
Baumaniere (with 2 Michelin stars) and does the cooking. Preparations are simple but the
ingredients are the highest quality, e.g. beef, scallops, foie gras, sole meuniere and other
fish and local produce. Meals are delicious ! Off season the menu is small but can check
what they are serving that night.
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Recommended by a wine lover from Robert Parker’s website who lives part-time very
close to this restaurant.

Bistro du Paradou
+33 (0)4 30 54 32 70
57 avenue de la Vallée des Baux

This bistro is located in Le Paradou--a tiny village south of St Remy. There is one 4 course
prix fixe menu per day for 30 euros. It was made famous by Patricia Wells and written
about by Peter Mayle in A Year in Provence. The bistro has become tres chic, with
security people in the parking lot to watch over expensive cars! Must reserve. Sometimes
slow. Locals call ahead to see what the menu has and then make plans.

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                                    Arles--The Camargue

L’Atelier de Rabanel
+33 (0)4 90 91 07 69
7 rue de Carmes
13200 ARLES
Prices: lunch 45-75 euros
Dinner 75 or 140 with matching wines

Jean-Luc Rabanel is the flamboyant celebrity chef of this area in Provence. Food for
his atelier is organic; vegetables, herbs and flowers are raised in its own organic garden.
He is a modern chef, conversant with technology; if you want to know what is going on in
the kitchen without entering the restaurant, kitchen activity is presented on a screen in
the front window. Rabanel was awarded one Michelin star in 2007, and the prestigious
Gault Millau "Cuisinier de L'Annee 2008" --best chef of the year 2008.

The restaurant is contemporary and unpretentious, decorated in black, cream and red.
Chef Rabanel is creative and very original; he offers a deconstructed lemon tarte made
without fat, and a béarnaise sauce without eggs! He emphasizes vegetables in his meals,
which can be 13-16 courses. Your meal here will be memorable; and the price is very
reasonable considering the quality.
Directions: Map:

A Cote
Open daily 9 am to midnight
29 e menu

This truly is a bistro "a coté" since it is located right next door to Rabanel's Atelier. A
Cote is a casual neo (new style) bistro, open all day long. The décor is casual and relaxed
with plasma TVs and metal chairs. The chef is Spanish and you can get tapas and/or a main
course or a menu E.g Foie gras with piment d’Espelette; pintade (pheasant) in a salt crust;
mussels and squid in a skillet; pissaladiere with fresh sardines; roast lamb.

Their animated web site is quite fun—take a look:

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La Chassagnette
+33 (0)4 90 97 26 96     Surrounded by organic garden and restaurant
Fax +33 (0)4 90 97 26 95
Domaine de l'Armellière
Le Sambuc, 13200 Arles
de 11h30 à 15h et de 19h à 22h30
Closed Tuesday and Wed except July & August
Lunch menu 34 e for 3 courses
Dinner 50-80 e
For a great review, see

La Chassagnette is a beautifully restored and decorated old shepherd's cottage in the
Parc Regional National de Camargue, owned by Swiss Maja Hoffman. The restaurant is
contemporary, surrounded by a trellis and greenery, with a bright and spacious dining
room. Located about 12 miles south of Arles, Armand Arnal, a young Ducasse disciple, is
chef. The food is creative, light, and consists of local and regional products (including
Camargue rice and bull) skillfully and lovingly prepared to keep them fresh and tasty.
Vegetables and fruits come from their own organic garden. Even the bread, made with
vegetable puree and sea salt from the region and served warm is hard to resist. Of course
organic vegetables are featured. Service is friendly.

It is quite cozy inside with the fireplace, but the best time to come is spring and summer.
Definitely one of the best places in the region. For great photos, see:

Recommended by Lynda Martin, part-time resident in Les Baux de Provence
Directions: Located 12 miles from the center of Arles, on the road to Sambuc. Take the direction Saintes-
Maries-de-la-Mer, then take the D35 left towards Salin-de-Giraud. Drive about 10 min--the restaurant is on
your left.

Chez JuJu
+33 (0)4 92 75 11 88            Best to go on a nice day; delicious fresh fish

For directions:
From Arles take the D570 along-side the River Rhône turning left along the D36. After 5kms           there is
a turn to the right signed to Gageron. Take this road and after 7 kms you will come to a crossroads with a
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restaurant on the left. Diagonally opposite is a small blue and white sign advertising Chez JUJU. Follow the
directions until you see another blue and white sign on some low railings and you have arrived.

Chez Bob
+33 (0)4 90 97 00 29
Fax +33 (0)
Mas Petite Antonelle
D37, route de Sambuc
Route to Sambuc, Villeneuve, Gageron
13200 Arles
Closed Monday and Tuesday--open all year round
12 to 1:30 and 7:30 to 9:30.

Single menu at 39 euros

Interested in a different culinary experience in the countryside? Located in the Parc
Naturel Regional de Camargue, near the Etang (salt water lagoon) de Vaccares, Chez Bob is
not the typical tourist draw. The restaurant is an old fashioned house, with air
conditioned rooms, and filled with lots of posters. The greeting you receive from Josy
and Jean-Guy is warm and friendly, as is the ambiance. The food is excellent, and the
wine list well-priced. If you are lucky, there will be music.

There is only one menu. You begin with some terrines, and veggies served with an anchoiade
(Provencal anchovy and olive oil sauce.) Then you have the choice of, for example, roast
duck, snails, fish, wood oven grilled leg of lamb, bull chops (you are in prime "taureau"
country) or game. Perhaps a little expensive. With the fireplace, great on a cold, but sunny
winter day.

Located 14 km south of Arles. Take the D. 579 les Saintes, then D. 36 Salin de Giraud, then the 36B.
Turn right on D. 37, Chez BoB is 100 m east of the Villeneuve intersection.

La Telline
+33 (0)4 90 97 01 75
Route Gageron - quartier Villeneuve
 13200 Arles
Lunch:Open 12-1 except Thursday
Eve: 7:30--9 pm
Closed Tuesday and Wed

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35 euros

La Telline is named after the "clams in garlic cream" on the menu (Actually, ―tellines‖ are
clam-like mollusks very popular in this area of the Mediterranean.)
Other popular dishes include wood grilled eel from a local pond (etang), bull (taureau)
chops, and fish served simply with perhaps local Camargue rice and a salad.

Located in a typical Camargue style house so far out that you think you are lost. You must
pass Gagneron, and keeping going towards Villeneuve. A nice touch, they have large wine
glasses, which is not common in France. Wine is very resonably priced.

Restaurant Alexandre (16 G M)
+33 (0)4 66 70 08 99
2 rue Xavier-Tronc/route de l’aeroport
30128 Garons (near Nimes Airport; 8 km from Nimes, 24 km from Arles)
Closed: Sun dinner, Mon and Tues Sept_june; closed a week in Jan and one in Feb
Closed Sun and Mon July and AUg

The best restaurant in Nimes is located 8 km away from town, near the airport. The
prestigious Gault & Millau guide says that they are one of the best 100 restaurants in

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The Luberon includes the wonderful villages of Lourmarin, Apt, Bonnieux, Lacoste, and ..
Peter Mayle lives in this area--originally in Menerbes until he had so many people looking
for him that he moved to Long Island for a while. The amazing antique center of L'Isle
sure la Sorgue is here, as is Gordes, The Luberon is one of the most chic areas of
Provence, with corresponding prices.

Apt: capital of the Luberon, located on the N100. Famous for ―fruits confits‖--candied
figs, cherries, and other fruits. The Saturday morning famers’ market is large, and very
well know. Stroll the ancient streets while studying the wares offered! There are alsom
some loverly shops offering ―made in Apt‖ faience and pottery; e.g. Faience Atelier de Vieil
Apt, 61 place Carnot; +33 (0)4 90 04 03 96.

Bistro de France
+33 (0)4 90 74 22 01
67 Place de la Bouquerie
84000 Apt
Closed Sunday and Monday, Thursday noon

The Bistro de France is one of the oldest bistros in Provence. It is a simple, unpretentious
place, but with excellent food, located in a quiet square on the edge of the main part of
town. The owner is a wonderful character--if he sees you hesitating while trying to eat
the "panier de legumes," he will stop by and show you how to eat a raw, baby purple
artichoke. The food is seasonal, simply prepared and delicious. The terrace is the best
place to eat, since the inside of the bistro lacks, well, charm and ambiance. But the food is
worth, especially the garlicy green salad, omelettes with wild mushrooms, truffles in
winter, seared scallops, anchoaide with crudites,

 Unfortunately, the bistro has been discovered in recent years, and had become very
popular. Best to reserve. Stop after the wonderful Saturday market in Apt, or in the
winter for truffles.

La Cave du Septier (Wine Shop)
 +33 (0)4 90 04 77 38
Place du Septier and Place Carnot

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84000 Apt

A wonderful wine shop (the best in Provence) with interesting wines from all over. Check
the website for details.

(Maison) Gouin
+33 (0)4 90 76 90 18
RN100, Coustellet

Located on the main road through town, the Maison Gouin is many things: a butcher shop;
traiteur (prepared foods); and a restaurant. They serve an excellent lunch a dinner; lunch
is a steal!

Le Mas Tourteron
+33 (0)4 90 72 00 16
Les Imberts/Gordes.
Menu : 62 euros
Le Mas Tourteron serves delicious Provencal cuisine in a restored farmhouse in the
countryside. Wonderful location. The chef is very well known, and the restaurant been a
favorite for many years, but is now very priceym with only a signle 62 euro menu.
      Summer dining is magical on the terrace. And for dessert lovers, there is a huge,
and seasonal buffet. Expensive.

Le Fournil
+33 (0)4 09 75 83 62

a favorite in the Luberon. Very popular.

Bastide de Marie
+33 (0)4 90 72 30 20
Route de Bonnieux, Quartier de la Verrerie, Menerbes

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One of the best hotels in Provence. Quiet and peaceful setting in the country. All fresh
food, changing daily. Beautiful terrace. Limited restaurant availability for non-hotel
guests. Worth a visit if you are in the Luberon, even to just have a drink.

La Coquillade
+33 (0)4 90 74 71 71
84400 Gargas
Per Catherine Galant

Lunch, only one menu, 29 euros, with choice of two items
Dinner : 46 and 54 euros
location :
GPS: 043° 52.51‘ N, 005° 18.59’ E
Highway A7/A9
Exit Cavaillon or Avignon Sud
D22-D900 (N100) direction Apt
Junction at milestone kilometer PR35

La Coquillade is a luxury hotel and winery complex in the Luberon owned by Swiss Werner
and Carmen Wunderli. Located less than 50 km from Avignon, the site of a former hamlet
with its ramshackle old houses was transformed into a luxury hotel, suites, You can dine
indoors or outdoors at the pool of « Jardin des Vignes. ». The dining room is classic
Provence, with tile floors, high beamed cielings, large chandeliers, done in somber tones of
grey and black.

Lunch at 29 euros should be a fine meal. However the portions can be a bit small, and
sometimes even not very interesting. Service is classy. Winery produces organic wines
over 80 acres

Auberge du Marche
04 90 20 18 31
276 rue du Jas,
Only menus served : 25E lunch, 35 E dinner

 Excellent restarant. Velleron has a very famous afternoon fruit and vegetable market
every week day
per L'Express

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La Petite Maison
+33 (0)4 90 68 21 99
Place de l’étang

Chef Eric Sape, who worked at 2 and 3 restaurants in Paris, owns this retaurant in the
tiny and charming Luberon village of Curcuron. The chef has cooked in many places and is
well known all over France. In the corner house around the pond "etang." Menu changes

Auberge La Feniere
+33 (0)4 90 68 11 79
route de Cadenet in Lourmarin;

One star in a new "mas"; overpriced but a very nice experience
Reine Samut is the famous female chef/owner.

Passédat Le Petit Nice
+33 (0)4 91 59 25 92
Anse de Maldormé -130 Corniche J.F.Kennedy
13007 Marseille

       Famous for its bouillabaisse; very expensive. Got its 3rd star March 2008--the first
ever in Marseille

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