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THE HARVEST THE HARVEST FRANCE

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THE HARVEST THE HARVEST FRANCE Powered By Docstoc
					2005 FALL SUPPLEMENT

THE HARVEST
     of
  FRANCE
 Table of Contents
 WDQ Ltd. Harvest Edition

 Focus on France. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

 Bourgognes Faiveley . . . . . . . . . . -

 Domaine Leflaive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

 Domaine Pierre Morey . . . . . . . . . 

 Biodynamic Agriculture . . . . . . . . 

 Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss . . . . 

 Domaine des Perrières. . . . . . . . . . 

 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. . . 

 Domaine Dujac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

 Dujac Fils et Père. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

 Domaine de Triennes . . . . . . . . . .            Using “la hotte à vendanges” or hod (back-basket) takes some practice and agility.
                                                   At Domaine Dujac, pinot noir is transported from the pickers via “la hotte à vendanges”
 Hungary for Dessert:                                            to the waiting tractor at the edge of the vineyard. Allez-oop!
 Royal Tokaji Wine Company . . . . 

 Salon Champagne . . . . . . . . . . . . . 

 Delamotte Champagne . . . . . . . . 

  Bourgogne Harvest . . . . . . 

 John Bradbury,
 VP Import Director. . . . . . back cover

This WDQ Fall Supplement is published by
Wilson Daniels Ltd., 1201 Dowdell Lane,
St. Helena, CA. Editor/Creative Director:
Sue Kibbe. Cover photography: Robert M.
Bruno. Printed by Ben Franklin Press. For
inquiries, address changes, or a free subscrip-
tion, e-mail: info@wilsondaniels.com.


         Wilson Daniels Ltd.
             P. O. Box -B
        St. Helena, CA 
           Tel. ..
            Fax ..
   e-mail: info@wilsondaniels.com
       www.wilsondaniels.com
                                                          At Domaine Pierre Morey, chardonnay is carried in “la hotte à vendanges”
    2     • WDQLtd.                                             and emptied into the bin during a beautiful 2005 harvest.
Wilson Daniels Ltd. has been
honored to represent la crème de la crème
of French domaines for the past 25
                                                                  Focus on France
years. It all began when Aubert de Vil-
laine walked into Jack and Win’s office
on Main Street in St. Helena and in-
quired if they were interested in im-
porting some rather rare Burgundies
(Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, to
be precise). Over the years the French
portfolio grew to include Domaine
Dujac, Dujac Fils et Père, Domaine de
Triennes, Domaine Kreydenweiss from
Alsace (our first biodynamic producer),
Salon and Delamotte Champagnes,
Bourgognes Faiveley, Domaine Leflaive
(our second biodynamic producer), and
Domaine Pierre Morey (our third biody-
namic producer).

“Old World” respect for tradition is
naturally a characteristic of this enclave.
At the same time, these are among the
most forward-thinking, future-oriented,
scientific and sophisticated of vignerons.                                     2003 Harvest in Burgundy
They are focused on quality, yet never
would sacrifice the future for immediate
                                                                             “gel, grêle, et grillage”
gain. A profound sense of history frames
every decision; they are part of a contin-    • Frost, hail, and heat (literally “grilling   • 2003 can boast the earliest known
uum that is far greater than the present      or roasting”) gave us one of the most          ban de vendange (official beginning of
individual or current vintage.                challenging vintages of all time.              harvest) and the first harvest since 1893
                                                                                             to begin in August (then it was August
It may seem to an outsider that time          • Terrible frosts during the first two          30; 2003 was August 19).
has stood still in Burgundy and Alsace.       weeks of April, following bud break
But when you listen to these vignerons                                                       • Le triage (sorting of the grapes) was
describe their viticulture and winemak-       • Lower rainfall than usual, beginning         in all cases essential to eliminate sun-
ing, when you see the health of their         as early as March in some areas                burned or dried grapes.
vineyards, you know these are voices of
the future. These are the torch-bearers       • Hail in some sectors in July, following      • Older vines with deeper roots and
who do not stand still.                       véraison (change of color of grapes)           vineyards that are biodynamically cul-
                                                                                             tivated were better able to retain water
In tribute to these extraordinary peo-        • Vines progressed from one vegeta-            and withstand the heat.
ple who have worked their utmost to           tive cycle to another at incredibly com-
restore, preserve, and create some of         pressed speed.                                 • Despite these conditions, 2003 offers
the finest vineyards in the world, we                                                         refined and elegant wines, wonderfully
dedicate this issue. As the 2003 vin-         • Temperatures in August well over 40° C       concentrated and powerful wines, wines
tage arrives on the United States’ shores,    (almost 105° F, with two days at 108°)         that will easily last a decade or more,
we salute the sheer courage, skill and                                                       and village wines with unusual richness
ingenuity which enabled them to pull          • 2003 has the dubious distinction of          and weight (their position lower on the
remarkable wines from the grasp of a          being the hottest vintage in Burgundy’s        slopes offering some protection). It is
season beyond reckoning.                      recorded history.                              a vintage with great diversity.
                                                                                                                       WDQLtd. • 1
Harvest Reports: Bourgognes Faiveley
 Harvest:                                     Harvest:
August  - September ,                     September  - October 

Yields: Our yields were below average            Yields: As the exceptional conditions              Ripeness: Very satisfactory thanks
due to the frosty month of April, stormy         of 2003 led us to imagine, the 2004               to the lesser load on the vinestock and
weather and hale stones, as well as the          vintage was a generous vintage. These             despite the rainy summer. The richness
heat wave during spring and summer.              observations were confirmed during                 in sugar was well above average. We
                                                 the samples taken in the vineyards dur-           find on the whole a maturity similar to
We have to go back a couple of centu-            ing the closing stages of the grapes.             that of the 2002 vintage.
ries to find climatic conditions as hot           The weight and size of the grapes were
and a harvest as advanced as this one.           among the most important ever mea-                Condition of the grapes in :
From the end of May it became partic-            sured in terms of quantity since 1994.            The pressure of cryptogamic and
ularly hot, sunny and dry in Burgundy                                                              notably oïdium diseases was felt very
right up until the end of the harvest.           We needed to green harvest most of our            strongly and early on. The return to
The veraison and the maturity of the             vines in our domaine. Certain parcels             summer weather in the last days of
grapes began very early.                         were green harvested twice in July and            August and the weeks of Septem-
                                                 at the end of August. Thanks to this,             ber allowed the evolution rate of the
Despite the extreme climatic condi-              the grapes were ripe even though the              grapes’ maturity to pick up. The con-
tions, the condition of the grapes was           month of August was rainy and the                 dition was very satisfying across the
very satisfying. The summer enabled us           yields in some parcels (notably in the            domaine but the necessary time taken
to bring in healthy grapes. The harvest          villages of Nuit and Mercurey) were               to reach maturity was closely linked
for 2003 allowed us to obtain optimum            quite reduced.                                    to the load on the vines.
maturity.




Clos de l’Ecu, Beaune Premier Cru: This ancient walled vineyard is ideally situated high on the hillside overlooking Beaune. It is, without doubt,
one of the top premier crus of the commune. “Ecu” is an obsolete French coin formerly worth 3 francs, and refers to the fees paid to the ducal
owners centuries ago; “ecuage” means land-tax or scutage, which dates back to feudal society. The vineyard is a monopole recently acquired
by Francois Faiveley, and 2003 is the first vintage from the historic Clos de l’Ecu produced by Domaine Faiveley.
2   • WDQLtd.
Faiveley
 Harvest
Preview
“It is a vintage which ripened early,
resembling that of 2003 until the end
of August. We believed that we would
have a similar vintage, very concen-
trated and of low yield. However, after
several months of dry weather, fine and
persistent rains fell at the beginning of
September. The rains were a life-saver
for the vines which were really starting
to suffer from lack of water. The result is
a healthy harvest – thick skins and very
good quality juice. It’s still too early to
say, but everything leads us to believe
that we are experiencing a great vintage;
some think on the level of 1990,” re-           The 2005 harvest on the Côte d’Or proceeded under fair skies. Erwan Faiveley (above left)
ports Erwan Faiveley, (left) Chairman of        Chairman of Domaine Faiveley, works the harvest. With vineyard manager Roland Mazet
Domaine Faiveley, as he shoulders a bin         (below, right), the grapes are first sorted in the bins. Stately Clos de Vougeot, now an historic
                                                monument and home to the Confrérie des Chevaliers de Tastevin, is in the background.
of Pinot Noir from Clos de Vougeot.
                                                Faiveley owns 3.18 acres of Clos de Vougeot, with vines averaging 30-37 years in age.
                                                                                                                     Sorting (le triage) con-
                                                                                                                     tinues with even greater
                                                                                                                     exactitude on the sorting
                                                                                                                     tables at the winery in Nu-
                                                                                                                     its-St-Georges. This year
                                                                                                                     the Musigny Grand Cru
                                                                                                                     – of which Faiveley owns
                                                                                                                     .08 acres and produces
                                                                                                                     around 150 bottles nor-
                                                                                                                     mally – was painstakingly
                                                                                                                     destemmed by hand (be-
                                                                                                                     low). In 2003 yields were
                                                                                                                     so small that Faiveley’s
                                                                                                                     Musigny was put into
                                                                                                                     their Chambolle Premier
                                                                                                                     Cru Les Fuées.




            BOURGOGNES FAIVELEY NOW 180 YEARS OLD
Maison Joseph Faiveley was founded in 1825 and has always remained in the Faiveley
family, passing from father to son for 180 years. With each successive generation, the
size of the domaine increased (now encompassing 120 hectares); between 70-80% of
Faiveley wines come from their estate vineyards. Erwan Faiveley is the seventh genera-
tion to take charge of his family’s domaine. He has learned the intricacies of one of
the largest, most complicated and sophisticated domaines in Burgundy by immersing
himself in every aspect of the business, from harvest to winemaking to bottling to mar-
keting on their new website, which is definitely worth a visit:
                             www.bourgognes-faiveley.com
                                                                                                                                 WDQLtd. • 3
 Vintage Report from                           Several factors during the growing sea-                      September/October 2005
Anne-Claude Leflaive                               son contributed to this result:

As the 2003 vintage arrives on our shores, it      • frost on April 11 in the Bourgogne
is worth remembering the challenges vignerons      and Puligny-Montrachet AOCs
faced during that sweltering growing season.       • hailstorms on June 12 and July 20
Biodynamic viticulture combined with rigor-                                                    points
                                                   • finally, and above all, sunburn on the     Domaine Leflaive
ous selection and sorting of the grapes made an    grapes with southern exposure during
enormous difference in the quality of the har-                                                 Puligny Montrachet Les Combettes
                                                   several weeks’ heat-wave in July and       “Pale medium yellow. Subdued but
vest. These wines will be ready to drink earlier   August.
than usual and already show their amazing                                                     pure aromas of peach, lemon, flowers
richness and concentration.                                                                   and spicy oak. Soft, rich and fresh, with
                                                   The sorting table made it possible to      less exotic flavors and less obvious al-
                                                   eliminate the grapes that were most
What was most noteworthy in the                    heavily hit by the weather conditions,
                                                                                              cohol than the foregoing samples. This
                                                                                              finishes with excellent length.”
2003 vintage was undeniably the ex-                and all parcels were sorted – from Bour-
ceptionally early harvest. We have to              gogne Blanc to Montrachet.                  points
go back to 1893 to find one as early as                                                         Domaine Leflaive
that!                                              Quality is truly astonishing, with low     Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles
                                                   acidity and high, very consistent sugar    “Palish yellow color. Reticent aromas
For us, the choice of date was deter-              content. The small yields contribute       of orange oil and vanillin oak. Quite
mined by one essential element: The                significantly to fruit concentration.       dry and reserved, with a fine-grained
end of the scorching hot temperatures                                                         texture and notes of peach and flow-
that were highly unfavourable to good              The wines will be rich, generous, and      ers. This vineyard produces wine with
harvesting and vinification conditions!             will, without doubt, be ready to drink     delicate aromas and is always among
                                                   early on. You can enjoy them, at the       the most affected by the bottling, notes
Tasting the grapes before and during the           earliest:                                  Morey.”
harvest confirmed our choice. After the             • Bourgogne Blanc from 2006
rain on August 28, we harvested from Sat-          • Puligny-Montrachet from 2006             ? points
urday, August 30 to Thursday, September            • Premiers Crus from 2007                   Domaine Leflaive
5, under very good weather conditions.             • Puligny-Montrachet “Les Pucelles”        Bâtard Montrachet
                                                      from 2008                               “Pale yellow. Exotic aromas of peach
The harvest was a quick one since quan-            • Grands Crus from 2009                    liqueur, flowers and spicy oak, with a
tity was low, averaging roughly 25 hl/ha.          • Montrachet from 2010                     whiff of room freshener. Fat, sweet and
                                                                                              full-bodied but lacking in definition. A
                                                                                              huge but rather inelegant Bâtard that
                                                                                              some tasters will prize for its sheer full-
                                                                                              ness and dimension.”

                                                                                               points
                                                                                               Domaine Leflaive
                                                                                              Chevalier Montrachet
                                                                                              “Pale yellow. Pure, perfumed nose
                                                                                              combines orange, flowers and crushed
                                                                                              stone. This combines the volume of the
                                                                                              year with good flavor definition and in-
                                                                                              ner-mouth aromatic character. Floral,
                                                                                              mineral and orange flavors are a bit ex-
                                                                                              otic for Chevalier, but understated in
                                                                                              the context of the vintage. Finishes im-
                       The immaculate courtyard at Domaine Leflaive                           pressively dense and very long. A very
                                                                                              strong 2003.”

4    • WDQLtd.
                                                                                                                  September/October 2005




                                                                                                (+?)? point
                                                                                                 Domaine Pierre Morey
                                                                                                Bâtard Montrachet
                                                                                                “Mute on the nose; shocked by the
                                                                                                bottling. Fat and sweet, but currently
                                                                                                showing less depth and precision of fla-
                                                                                                vor than the Perrières. But not hot, and
                                                                                                builds nicely toward the back. Finishes
Pierre Morey with his daughter, Anne Morey, talented winemaker for Morey-Blanc wines, in        with a resiny note. Perhaps ultimately a
their naturally cool underground cellars in Meursault. When asked how he manages three          bit more typical of its site than the Per-
separate domaines with over three dozen separate vineyard bottlings, Pierre freely admits       rières, but not yet expressive. Both this
that his daughter and his wife, Christiane (née Blanc) Morey, are the secrets to his success.
                                                                                                and the Perrières are showing less today
                                                                                                than prior to the bottling, notes Morey,
                                                                                                who believes that these two wines need a
                                                                                                good four or five years of bottle aging.”

                                                                                                 points
                                                                                                 Morey Blanc
                                                                                                Corton Charlemagne
                                                                                                “Good pale color. Apple and spice on
                                                                                                the nose; quite stony compared to the
                                                                                                Meursault samples. The largest-scaled
                                                                                                by far of these 2003s but with a lovely
                                                                                                light touch and noteworthy inner-
                                                                                                mouth energy. Rich but rather elegantly
                                                                                                styled, with a clean, building finish.”
                                                                                                                          Stephen Tanzer
Pierre Morey (above) applies biodynamic
(BD) preparation “501” to his section of
Meursault “Perrières” vineyard in Octo-
ber. This preparation is made from dilute
amounts of powdered quartz (silica) and is
used as a foliar spray to stimulate and regu-
late growth. The amounts used are homeo-
pathic in quantity, meaning they produce
an effect in extremely diluted amounts. For
further descriptions of biodynamic viticul-
ture, see page 6.




Harvester (right) takes a rest during the
2005 harvest in Meursault. The excellent
weather during harvest bodes well for the
vintage. (Photos: Christiane Morey)



                                                                                                                           WDQLtd. • 5
           The Origins of Biodynamic Agriculture
                                                                                         Claude Kolm’s                Issue 107, 2005
Biodynamic agriculture developed out        horn filled with manure or powdered
of a series of eight lectures given in      quartz and buried for six months to fer-
1924 by Rudolf Steiner (1861-1925),         ment, then applied as a dilute spray to
an Austrian scientist and philosopher.      the soil or directly on the plants.
These lectures have been published in
a book titled “Spiritual Foundations for    These preparations strengthen the ethe-
the Renewal of Agriculture” – in Eng-       ric (life) forces on the farm as well as
lish simply “An Agricultural Course.”       enhancing the health of the soil and
                                            plants. Steiner’s metaphysical tenets
Steiner’s lectures were in response to      – particularly those that deal with en-      Kreydenweiss  Riesling
observations from farmers in Germany        ergy forces and astrological influences –     Andlau /A
that soils were becoming depleted fol-      have underlying spiritual, some would        “The Andlau Riesling shows fine grip
lowing the introduction of chemical         say mystical, elements. Astrophysicists,     and minerality, noble austerity and
fertilizers and pesticides at the turn of   however, recognize planetary influence        excellent bite.”
the century; the health and quality of      as “resonance” which is measurable.
their crops and livestock were deterio-     Steiner used his own terminology, such       Kreydenweiss  Riesling
rating. Biodynamic agriculture devel-       as “etheric forces” and “astral forces.”     Wiebelsberg /A
oped as a grassroots alternative to the                                                  “The grand cru Riesling Wiebelsberg
overuse of chemicals, and it parallels      The “dynamic” part of bio-dynamics is        is pure and deep with austerity and a
organic farming in many respects.           directly linked to life forces and “subtle   suggestion of acacia on the finish. This
                                            energy forces” in nature. Biodynamic         is a wine to put away for long aging.”
To enhance soil quality and stimu-          agriculture recognizes these intangible
late plant growth, nine biodynamic          forces and works in tandem with rather
preparations were described by Steiner.     than against them. A simple example of
These preparations are numbered 500 -       this in terms of lunar influence would
508 and consist of extracts, usually fer-   be synchronizing pruning of the vines
mented, diluted, and applied in minute      with the new moon, rather than a full        Kreydenweiss 
proportions to the soil, vines, or com-     moon. The latter draws sap up the vine       Gewurztraminer Kritt /A
post. They have homeopathic effects in       and would needlessly drain the plant’s       “Last, the Gewurztraminer is rich with
extremely dilute amounts. Special stir-     life force.                                  some structure and a pure expression
ring procedures called “dynamizations”                                                   of spicy Gewurztraminer fruit. This is
are used in preparing the dilutions.        It has been shown that the microbial         ready to drink now.”
                                            life in biodynamically treated soils
Preparations for enriching compost          far exceeds that of organically treated
are made from yarrow and chamomile          soils and goes deeper into the ground,
blossoms, stinging nettle, oak bark,        breaking down minerals and organic
dandelion and valerian flowers. One of       compounds and thereby enhancing the
the unique practices is the use of a cow    “terroir” characteristics of a vineyard.




                                                                                         “Partager avec toi” meaning “To share with
                                                                                         you”: The 2004 label from Domaine Marc
                                                                                         Kreydenweiss expresses the essence of wine-
                                                                                         drinking, to share with friends and family
                                                                                         something of pleasure and of worth, har-
                                                                                         vested from a land well-tended.
  6   • WDQLtd.
Domaine des Perrières 
                                              appellation:
                                              Costières de Nîmes
                                              grape varieties:
                                              60% Carignan
                                              20% Syrah
                                              20% Grenache
                                               barrel-aging:
                                              100% French Oak


tasting notes: Wine of an intense red color with aromas of
red fruit; charming, delicate in the mouth; very concentrated
with elegant finesse; profound, with an intense finish.
                                                                         Gateway to Domaine des Perrières, named for the roadway,
history: Seven years ago, the Kreydenweiss family em-                     Chemin des Perrières, which once led to a stone quarry.
barked upon a new venture in the southern Rhône Valley
appellation of Costières de Nîmes. This region, its climate,
soils, varietals and terroir inspired Marc and Emmanuelle to
make their dream of producing a red wine come true. To
that end, they purchased this small and forgotten domaine.

vineyards: Carignan vines are approximately 70 years old
at Domaine des Perrières. One of the oldest varietals of the
south and now in danger of extinction, their Carignan’s de-
cline has been reversed with biodynamic practices. 25-year
old Syrah and Grenache vines are the grand Rhône varietals.

vineyard composition: 5 ha Carignan (12.35 acres);
4.5 ha Syrah (11.12 acres); 3 ha Grenache (7.41 acres);
1.5 ha Mourvèdre (3.71 acres); 0.5 ha Merlot (1.24 acres)

soil: Rich in iron, composed of Rhône gravel, a mixture of
silica, lime, flint and sandstone – ideal for red wines.                Above: Antoine Kreydenweiss, Marcel Chapeau (“Chef de Culture”
                                                                              at Domaine des Perrières) and Marc Kreydenweiss.
                                                                                Below right: Carignan vine just before harvest
biodynamic viticulture and pruning: Application of
biodynamic practices to the entire vineyard was begun im-
mediately. Very short pruning is done in order to control
yields. In addition, clusters are thinned after flowering;
leaves are thinned to allow good aeration.

harvest and fermentation:
• Yields kept to 30 hl/ha
• Manual harvesting and sorting
• Second sorting before destemming
• Fermentation with natural, native yeasts

“All viticulturalists worthy of the name are looking for perfection.
This is why our wines are in constant evolution. The mineral
richness of Domaine des Perrières’ vineyard allows us to produce a
red wine expressing both intensity and finesse.”
                              Marc & Emmanuelle Kreydenweiss
                                                                                                                        WDQLtd. • 7
                                  Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
Fascinating Facts from History:                                                   • The name “Marey-Monge” appears
                                                                                  on the Romanée-Saint-Vivant label in
• Abbaye de Saint-Vivant de Vergy,                                                obeisance to two centuries of tradition,
founded ca. 894 - 919 by Manassès,                                                during which the Marey-Monge family
Sire of Vergy, became one of the most                                             owned the vineyard (1791-1966).
important abbayes in Burgundy. It was
situated on the crest of a hill on very                                           • Abbaye de Saint-Vivant is now an
uneven ground, overlooking the back-                                              Historical Monument and its restora-
side of the Côtes de Nuits between the                                            tion has been undertaken by the As-
villages of Nuits-Saint-Georges and                                               sociation “l’Abbaye de Saint-Vivant” in
Vosne-Romanée. Within the next 300                                                Vosne-Romanée, which is presided over
years, this Abbaye had developed some                                             by Aubert de Villaine.
of the finest vineyards in France.
                                                                                  • Hiking trails leading up from the win-
• In 1131 the Duke of Burgundy ceded                                              ery in Vosne-Romanée to the Abbaye
all his woods and cultivated lands in                                             along “Le Chemin du Temps Perdu” are
Vosne-Romanée to the Saint-Vivant                                                 being mapped and restored.
abbey (perhaps, as was common, he
was seeking atonement for past sins).                                             • Prince de Conti, Louis-François de
This bequest included the slope which                                             Bourbon, reserved the entire produc-
would become Romanée-Conti.                                                       tion of La Romanée for his private
                                                                                  table, which was famous for its luxury
• The monks of Abbaye Saint-Vivant                                                (ca.1760). He did not attach his name
(along with the monks of Cîteaux),                                                to the vineyard, however; that was done
are credited with establishing the Bur-                                           by officials of the French Revolution
gundian philosophy of “terroir”. This                                             who confiscated the property in 1793.
is their legacy to the world. They were   • Rare indeed is the vineyard which,
of pivotal importance in the birth of     like Romanée-Saint-Vivant, since its    • Romanée-Conti and La Tâche are
the grand crus of Vosne-Romanée.          beginnings in the 12th century, has     monopoles, each belonging entirely to
The monks themselves did not work         had just four patrimonies: the monas-   the Domaine. La Tâche was acquired by
the land; their primary occupation was    tery Abbaye St. Vivant, the Nation of   the Domaine in 1933. Romanée-Conti
prayer, but they inspired the “philoso-   France (for a few months during the     was purchased in 1869 by Jacques-
phy”. Their vineyards were leased to      French Revolution), the Marey-Monge     Marie Duvault-Blochet, who was in-
vignerons through métayage or share-      family, and since 1966, Domaine de la   strumental in creating the Domaine as
cropping.                                 Romanée-Conti.                          it exists today through his perspicacious
                                                                                  acquisition of the best vineyards.

                                                                                  • The “long-legged” narrow tractors
                                                                                  that are used to cultivate the vineyards
                                                                                  in France are called “enjambeurs”. They
                                                                                  are designed to straddle the rows in a
                                                                                  crowded vineyard. Today the Domaine
                                                                                  uses horses to cultivate some vineyards
                                                                                  (Romanée-Conti and La Tâche).

                                                                                  • Domaine de la Romanée-Conti has
                                                                                  as many as 11,250 vines per hectare,
                                                                                  the maximum that can be cultivated
                                                                                  by enjambeurs. Crowding creates stress
                                                                                  on the vines, forcing the roots to grow
                                                                                  deeper and producing fewer but more
          The cornerstone of the prized Romanée-Conti grand cru vineyard          concentrated grapes.
8   • WDQLtd.
                                                                                             Dujac Fils et Père



                                                                                “The Fils et Père wines are made slightly differently
                                                                                than their Domaine counterparts as there is some
                                                                                destemming (between 0 and 50%) with slightly less
                                                                                new oak (50 to 60%). The quality of these wines is
                                                                                terrific but especially so given that they are from pur-
                                                                                chased grapes and all from village level appellations.”

                                                                                2001 Gevrey-Chambertin: “Considerably denser
                                                                                and earthier than either of the two foregoing wines
                                                                                (2001 Morey St.-Denis and Chambolle-Musigny)
                                                                                with more pronounced structure to the muscular,
                                                                                rich, relatively precise flavors. This too delivers fine
                                                                                quality for its level. 2006-12”
                                                                                Allen Meadows’ BURGHOUND.COM “The Ultimate
                                                                                Burgundy Reference,” Issue 9, January 2003

                                                                                2001 Meursault: “Warm and rich aromas of fresh
                                                                                pear and peach framed in a deft touch of pain grillé
Alec Seysses, Administration at Domaine Dujac; Diana Snowden Seysses,           introduce lovely, fine and pure flavors underpinned
Eonologist; and Jeremy Seysses, Winemaker: The next generation is learn-        by racy acidity and an attractive mineral note. This
ing from the master, Jacques Seysses, who has mentored many a winemaker         finishes with good persistence and fine intensity. A
over the years in his “non-interventionist”, yet distinctively elegant style.
                                                                                high quality Meursault villages. 2005-9”
                                                                                Allen Meadows’ BURGHOUND.COM “The Ultimate
                                                                                Burgundy Reference,” Issue 11, July 2003

                                                                                               Domaine Dujac
                                                                                 Domaine Dujac, Clos Saint-Denis, grand
                                                                                cru, Morey Saint-Denis, Côte de Nuits
                                                                                 points
                                                                                “While slightly reductive, the 2003 Clos Saint-
                                                                                Denis admirably displays its enormous concen-
                                                                                tration and depth of fruit. Copious quantities of
                                                                                dark berries are intermingled with notes of herbs,
                                                                                licorice, and red cherries in its complex and lengthy
                                                                                character. Projected maturity: 2008-2017.”

                                                                                 Domaine Dujac, Morey Saint-Denis
                                                                                premier cru, Côte de Nuits
                                                                                 points
                                                                                “Spicy, creamy blackberries and dark cherries
                                                                                emanate from the glass of the outstanding 2003
                                                                                Morey Saint-Denis 1er Cru. Medium-bodied and
                                                                                chunky-textured, this concentrated wine reveals
                                                                                impressive depth. Black currants, brambleberries,
                                                                                and spices make up its ripe yet structured flavor
                                                                                profile. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2013.”
Domaine Dujac counted their blessings during harvest 2005 as they experi-
enced another year with beautiful grapes, perfect picking weather, and coop-                     Pierre Rovani, The Wine Advocate,
erative vinifications. All grapes are handpicked and sorted at the domaine.                                 Issue 160, August 2005
                                                                                                                        WDQLtd. • 9
 Domaine de
Sixteen years ago, in 1989, three part-          which were composed of clay and lime-
ners – Jacques Seysses, Aubert de Vil-           stone soils, too poor for agriculture but
laine, and a friend from Paris, Michel           excellent for viticulture.
Macaux – discovered a rather run-down
estate in Provence, northeast of Mar-            The estate shows evidence of settlement
seille and due east of Aix-en-Provence.          and viticulture since Roman times. It             Sainte Fleur: 100% Viognier
                                                 spreads between altitudes of 365 - 410            Surface Area: 13.50 hectares in produc-
The vineyard was poorly managed,                 meters above sea level and lies on a gen-         tion, shared between 25 - 30 year-old
there was a very basic winery containing         tle hillside between the mountain ranges          vines and 4 - 6 year-old new plantings.
some large and dirty storage tanks, and          of Monts Aurélien and Sainte Baume,               Yield: 28 - 35 hl/ha depending on the
no housing attached. The 46-hectare              guaranteeing cool nights and, as was soon         plot of vines.
vineyard was mostly planted with Ugni            learned, a long growing season, propitious        Vinification: Fermentation in tempera-
blanc, Cinsault and Carignan, varietals          to good acidities and complexity.                 ture-controlled tanks. Some of the wine
in which the partners were only moder-                                                             undergoes malolactic fermentation,
ately interested.                                They renamed the estate Domaine de                while the rest is blocked at an earlier
                                                 Triennes, after the triennia, festivities in      stage to retain its freshness. The lots are
What caught their attention was the              honor of Bacchus that took place every            subsequently blended.
south-facing slope of the vineyards,             three years in Roman times.                       Élevage: 100% in steel tanks.
                                                                                                   Tasting Notes: Sainte Fleur is explosive
                                                                                                   on the nose with apricot, honeysuckle
                                                                                                   and honey aromas. It has great power
                                                                                                   and intensity, combined with a lovely
                                                                                                   balance between richness, acidity and
                                                                                                   minerality.




                                                                                                   St. Auguste: Blend of the best casks
                                                                                                   of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot
                                                                                                   Yield: 40 hl/ha
                                                                                                   Vinification: 30-to-35-day fermenta-
The Domaine de Triennes vineyards are managed in a manner similar to that of Domaine
Dujac. This is called “lutte raisonnée” or reasoned and integrated protection. (Actually,          tions on natural yeasts in tanks to help tan-
Domaine Dujac is now approximately 50% organically farmed, 50% lutte raisonnée.) Nei-              nins polymerize, making them smoother.
ther insecticides nor acaricides (acarians = spiders and mites) are used; treatments are only      Regular remontages (pumping-over) and
done if necessary, and they are not systemic. Prevention is achieved through cultural              even délestages (wine is run out of the
methods rather than chemical methods as far as possible. Triennes has a rich population            tank into another, and then pumped
of the natural acarian predator, Typhlodromus pyrii. The differences of temperature kill off
                                                                                                   over the cap of grape skins) to ensure
any caterpillars (Eudemis and Cochyllis) during the June-August period, it frequently being
between 30º and 40ºC during the day and 10-15ºC at night.                                          enough aeration to the wine.
                                                                                                   Élevage: 12 months in old Dujac oak.
The ground has been cover-cropped which our experience at Dujac suggests has several               Blended in tanks and bottled unfiltered
advantages: the cover-crops act as a sponge after a rain, absorbing excess moisture from           after a light fining.
the soil, controlling erosion and helping to ensure a natural balance in the biological activ-     Tasting Notes: Offers a ripe bouquet
ity of the soil. The levels of biological activity (meaning microbial life in the soil) have im-
                                                                                                   and flavors of plums and black cherries
proved with the addition of a cover-crop and also grapeskin compost applied every three
years. Increased biological activity appears to be important as it affects the nutrient take-up    intermixed with cracked pepper and
by the vine’s roots: healthy biological activity helps the vine roots grow deep into the soil      cloves. Dense, chewy and velvet-tex-
and express their unique “terroir”.                                                                tured, this wine is truly a vin de plaisir.
10 • WDQLtd.
                                             Dessert compliments of The Royal Tokaji Wine Company




                                             Mézes Mály, over a century ago. . .
                                             The following article appeared in The
                                             Washington Post in 1890!
                                             “The tokay. . . sent to Queen Victoria       The creation of Daniel LaGarde, The Palmer
                                                                                          House, Hilton, USA: Crème brulée with white
                                             as a jubilee present was of the rare vari-
                                                                                          chocolate drizzled strawberry and hazelnut
Just how BIG is a “Puttony”?                 ety known as “Mezesmale” or “Honey           pirouette. The caramelized flavors of crème
That famous measure of sweetness in          Beams.” This is produced only in Tarc-       brulée complement the dried fruit characters
Tokaji, puttonyos, derives from “put-        zal, near Tokay. To manufacture this         and nutty quality of Royal Tokaji.
tony”: the original wooden “hod” or          particular brand the grapes are never
bucket in which Aszú grapes were col-        gathered until fully ripe, and are put
lected. A puttony holds 20 - 25 kilos        into a cask without any artificial pres-
of Aszú berries. Heavy in itself, when       sure being applied; the juice extracted
filled a puttony can weigh 60 pounds.         from sun-dried grapes is then added,
                                             and the mixture becomes really essence
The Aszú berries are crushed into a          of Tokay.”
paste, then added to the base wine           The Washington Post, November 30, 1890
which was made from the previous
                                             Mézes Mály today (This may be the
year’s harvest. In the past, the number
                                             first bottling in over  years!)
of puttony added to a barrel containing
130 liters determined the level of rich-     Royal Tokaji Wine Company                    From Daniel Bruce, Boston Harbor Hotel:
ness and sweetness. (Today it is more         Mézes Mály                              Walnut sour cream cheesecake with a

accurately measured in grams per liter.)        points                                  walnut crust, sour cherries and candied
                                                                                          walnuts served with Royal Tokaji.
                                             “Rich and creamy up front, exhibiting
“A 3-puttonyos wine is light-medium;         caramel, coconut, spice and orange fla-
4-puttonyos wines begin to achieve the       vors, then a wave of fresh acidity ushers
first complexities; 5-puttonyos wines         in the refreshing finish. The aftertaste
are balanced between richness and re-        combines citrus and caramel. Drink
freshing acidity, and 6-puttonyos are in-    now through 2010.”
tense and concentrated in their tastes.”              Wine Spectator, Oct. 31, 2001
(Royal Tokaji begins at 5-puttonyos.)
                                             Royal Tokaji Wine Company
“Further up the scale, Aszú Essencia de-      Nyulászó
scribes wines of 7 to 9 puttonyos, which         points
can go up to 350 grams of sugar per litre.   “Distinctive. Deep in color, with a hint
These gloriously intense wines are pro-      of oxidation on the nose, this plays
duced only in great Aszú years, such as      bracing acidity against moderate sweet-
1993.” (More recently, 1995 & 1999.)         ness and smoky apricot flavors. Re-
                                             ally engages the palate in an intellectual
                                                                                          The Hilton Culinary Collection: English trifle
from“Tokaji: A Classic - Lost and Found”,    way. Fine, lingering finish. Needs food.      with layers of cream, fresh strawberries, and
monograph by Ben Howkins, published by       Drink now through 2015.”                     gelatin with a piroutte straw complements
the International Wine & Food Society                  Wine Spectator, Oct. 31, 2001      Royal Tokaji’s fresh acidity.
                                                                                                                        WDQLtd. • 11
                                                                                     Wine & Spirits
                                                                                     Rating:  points
                                                                                     Salon le Mesnil — 
                                                                                     Blanc de Blancs
                                                                                     “A fine stream of bubbles seems to rise
                                                                                     from everywhere in the glass, mark-
                                                                                     ing the extreme power and elegance
                                                                                     of this wine’s every component. It’s a
                                                                                     blanc de blancs in living color, the fla-
                                                                                     vors as expansive as a grand cru Bur-
                                                                                     gundy, brought to deep, silken richness
                                                                                     through the méthode Champenoise.
                                                                                     The richness itself is intoxicating, from
                                                                                     the sweet scents of fresh cream and
                                                                                     baba au rhum to the lasting scent of a
                                                                                     wheat field at harvest. This ‘95 is more
                                                                                     accessible on release than other recent
                                                                                     vintages of Salon, cellar-worthy. . .”
                                                                                                               December 2004

                                                                                     The Wine News
                                                                                     Rating:  points
                                                                                     Salon le Mesnil — 
                                                                                     Blanc de Blancs
                                                                                     “Medium gold hue with lines of pin-
                                                                                     point bubbles and a foamy mousse.
                                                                                     Toasty, deceptively low-key aromas of
                                                                                     lemon curd, buttered grains and bread
                                                                                     dough with vanilla note. Soft, fresh fla-
                                                                                     vors of lemon, kiwi, caramel and sau-
                                                                                     teéd butter. A chalk note freshens an
                                                                                     otherwise berry finish.”
                                                                                             December 2004 - January 2005


                                                                                     Stephen Tanzer’s
                                                                                     International Wine Cellar
                                                                                     Rating: + points
                                                                                     Salon le Mesnil — 
                                                                                     Blanc de Blancs
Wine Spectator                            Wine Spectator Online                      “Pungent, vivid aromas of pineapple,
 points                                  points                                  lime, rose petal, honeysuckle and pow-
                                                                                     dered stone. Wonderfully dense and rich
Salon le Mesnil —                     Salon Brut Blanc de Blancs
                                                                                     but fine-grained, with an almost velvety
Blanc de Blancs                           Champagne Le Mesnil — 
                                                                                     texture leavened by vibrant, harmoni-
“Tightly wound, this is marked by its     “This is assertive and grainy in tex-
                                                                                     ous acidity. A big, pliant, mouth coat-
bracing acidity which keeps the fla-       ture, a big-boned Champagne that’s         ing Salon with great ripeness of fruit and
vors from loosening their grip. Finely    powerful and intensely flavored. Bis-       subtle floral and mineral notes. Amaz-
wrought, there are glimpses of coffee,     cuit, graphite, honeysuckle, peach and     ingly solid Champagne that really coats
citrus candy and grilled hazelnuts, but   floral notes come together, defined by       the mouth on the explosive, building
they require more time to emerge. A       the firm structure and lasting through-     finish. Offers a rare combination of size
few years aging on the cork should        out the complex finish. It needs a little   and elegance. Deceptively easy to taste
help. Firm, tactile finish. Best from      more time for the elements to harmo-       today owing to its richness but has the
2006 through 2020.”                       nize. Drink now through 2018. 500          structure to develop in bottle for a de-
                   November 15, 2004      cases imported.” B.S. October 17, 2005     cade or two.”           December 2003
12 • WDQLtd.
Claude Kolm’s
                                                                                         Featured in this Supplement:

Delamotte  Blanc de Blancs                                                           France:
Brut /A-                                                                               Alsace:
“The Blanc de Blancs shows complex,                                                      Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss
typical aromas of biscuit, yeast and
vanillin. In the mouth, the wine shows                                                   Burgundy:
just a bit of fatness from the 1997 vin-                                                 Bourgognes Faiveley
tage, but on a whole is well balanced                                                    Domaine Dujac
and should smooth out nicely with a                                                      Dujac Fils et Père
year or two of cellaring.”                                                               Domaine Leflaive
                                                                                         Domaine Pierre Morey
Delamotte NV Brut /A                     on the eve of the  harvest:               Morey-Blanc
“The nonvintage Brut is a superb           A potentially great vintage!                  Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
Champagne with flinty, yeasty notes         “There’s lots of excitement in Burgundy’s
in the nose and mouth and more body        cellars on the eve of the grape harvest.      Champagne:
and zip than the Blanc de Blancs.”         The harvest will begin between Septem-        Salon
                          Claude Kolm      ber 10 and 15, barring a radical change       Delamotte
 The Fine Wine Review, Issue 107, 2005     in the weather. Some grapes were in fact
                                           already cut on September 1, in early-         Provence:
Delamotte NV Rosé /A-                    ripening parcels in the Saône-et-Loire.       Domaine de Triennes
“The Rosé is new in the U.S. market. The   The harvesters will again be wielding their
wine shows light cherry aromas and fla-     sécateurs at an early date. Everything has    Rhône Valley:
vors with some cedar and a long finish,     come together to indicate a great vintage     Domaine des Perrières
but the wine seems young and should        in 2005: a summer with no rain, sunny
improve with some cellaring.”              by day and with fairly cool nights. A         Hungary:
                           Claude Kolm     light rainfall on August 19 (especially in    Tokaji:
 The Fine Wine Review, Issue 105, 2005     the Côte Chalonnaise) provided relief         Royal Tokaji Wine Company
                                           from the effects of the drought.
                                                                                         For a complete listing of wines
                                           “Both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir               represented by Wilson Daniels Ltd,
                                                                                         please visit our website:
                                           are already showing high sugar lev-
                                                                                         www.wilsondaniels.com
                                           els. Odile Meurgues, director of the          or e-mail: info@wilsondaniels.com
                                           BIVB’s technical centre, adds her con-
                                           firmation: ‘These are lovely, well-aired
                                           grape bunches. Hygiene is exceptional.
                                           Thanks, among other things, to the
                                           north wind – very much in evidence
                                           this summer – the vines are completely
                                           free of disease.’

                                           “‘Pinot Noir is noteworthy this year
                                           for the thickness of its skin, indicating
                                           good colour and structure. Observa-
                                           tions show an excellent sugar-acidity
                                           balance for this stage of ripeness,’ re-
                                           ports Meurgues. Harvest forecasts for
                                           Burgundy indicate a volume that will
                                           be lower than the average over the last
                                           few years, especially for the whites.”
                                                   Domaine Leflaive, Sept. 2, 2005
                                                                                                                 WDQLtd. • 13
     Introducing John Bradbury, Vice President, Director of Imported Wines

     John Bradbury joined the Wilson Daniels Ltd. Marketing Department
     in January 2003 with over 20 years experience in the wine industry.
     Working primarily with imported wines, John has held positions in retail
     sales, distributor management, winery sales management, and strategic
     wine marketing.

     John was born in New Mexico and raised in the Santa Fe area. His
     passion for wine began in 1980 when he attended the University of
     Bordeaux in Talence, France. There he received a Bachelor of Arts in
     French Literature and graduated with Distinction in 1981. His love for
     France and its wines soon drew him back to the country, where he spent
     the summer of 1983 as a barman in Soulac sur Mer at a bar called “Le
     Chalut”, then worked the harvest at a small château in the Graves
     appellation. Regular visits abroad ever since maintain his knowledge
     and passion for the great wines of the world.

     Prior to joining Wilson Daniels, John served as Product Manager for
     Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company; Vice President of Sales &
     Marketing for Veritas Imports LLC; District Sales Manager for Seagram
     Chateau & Estate Wines; Fine Wine Manager, Western Division, for
     Palace Brands; General Sales Manager of Western Wine Merchants Dis-
     tributing; and Director of Fine Accounts for Rémy Amerique.

     John resides in St. Helena, California, with his wife, Kimberly, and their
     three-year-old son, Jack. Here he enjoys “La vie du vin”, and otherwise                       ,
                                                                                  John Bradbury, VP Director of Imported Wines (right)
                                                                                    with Marc Kreydenweiss in Alsace, October 2005.
     enjoys jazz, skiing and traveling.


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               WWW.WILSONDANIELS.COM                                                                                        St. Helena, CA

				
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