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A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 Our newsletter is not a mere newsletter anymore, but rather a small magazine and perhaps not the ideal medium to get everyone’s attention span. However, due to feed- back from our readers we decided not to shorten it to a single or double A4 with PR material, but rather to create a platform to discuss good food, interesting culinary facts around the world and introduce techniques utilised in the pâtisserie. Listening to people and their experiences was one of my favourite things when I was a child and I still find myself hanging on someone’s lips when they talk about moments in time during their travels and visits to all parts of the world, especially when it comes to food. For this reason I have asked a few colleagues working in different countries in the world to write a column for our newsletter on their most interesting experiences in restaurants, bakeries or anything else regarding food. I sincerely hope that our readers will also enjoy this and perhaps also share some of their experiences with us. With sharing knowledge and experience, we become so much more ‘rich’ in our understanding and thus appreciate so much more. This edition is filled with classical delicacies, which many readers will know, but perhaps we can highlight a different view or add some history that someone did not know before. It has been, and still is ‘high’ season for wedding ceremonies and we have decided to introduce the wedding cakes of Antonin Carême, perhaps the most famous pâtissier ever. In the late 1800’s he was the ‘celebrity’ chef in Paris and was the personal chef of the rich and famous, such as the Rothchild family. His desserts, pièce montée’s and sugar displays were awe-inspiring, and we could not find anyone anywhere (yet) in the world that specialise in baroque cakes of the 19 century anymore and decided that we will add this phenomena to our repertoire. Later in the newsletter we will show you some sketches of gateaux that we will be making. To properly display these creations, we had to go antique hunting in Europe to find cake stands that would fit the period and design. From Switzerland we bring you a Swiss speciality, the Luxemburgerli. Next time we will report on a visit to Geneva and what it has to offer for the connoisseur. We have the following on our menu: - Letters from our customers - A la Carte: El Bulli – The best restaurant in the world? - L’ Histoire: We introduce Antonin Carême –Cooking for Kings - - Colonne du Gourmet: Macarons – The Parisien delicacy 1 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 - Célébrité – Comments from well-known Pâtissiers and chefs - Horticulture – From beneath the rocks in Monaco.. - - Recipe of the month - Dans la Cuisine: Once again we introduce new techniques - Specials and New Creations - - Culinary Crossword - - Worth Mentioning Letters from our Readers Letter of the month: The ‘letter of the month’ is from Liz Brouckaert, and she gets a voucher worth R89.00 for confectionery of her choice: She writes: “I am the person that bought your last chocolate croissant and three delicious chocolates.... which I wanted to last the whole weekend and perhaps give one to my sweetheart but it didn't get past 2pm Saturday....hmmm very engaging and potentially terribly fattening. I forgot to mention that I fairly regularly make my own wood fired pizzas and have been wanting to source the best kind of white bread flour for this.. ..I went onto your website and was very impressed, lovely range.” For your information, I noted a typo on the scroll down menu for categories 'special occassions' occasion is spelt with one s. Thanks for raising the bench mark on tarts and other edible darlings to lead us all astray”.. Dear Liz, First of all thank you for indicating the spelling mistake on our website, we have corrected it immediately. It’s lovely to hear when someone is looking for good ingredients and we are always keen to assist in any way we can. On the fattening issue: One does not indulge everyday, but when you do decide to having something special, then nothing other than the best is good enough. It is all about moderation and keeping an active life-style, but also to enjoy the finer things in life; and for us it is good food and especially fantastic desserts or fine pâtisserie of course. Regards FB 2 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 A la Carte The magic of Ferran Adria Ferran Adria, the best chef in the world? His restaurant El Bulli has 3 stars in the ‘Guide Michelin’. He is not a chef anymore, but rather a food psychiatrist. Someone that will analyse a piece of meat to the bone, to create an animal-friendly, tongue soothing, and appealing ‘tapa’, after which you will ask yourself: “was that meat”? A place you have to experience (just make sure to have a reservation at least 6 months in advance..) In Rosas, 200km north from Barcelona is the Valhalla of cuisine art, restaurant El Bulli. Ferran Adria that started to work at the restaurant as plate washer worked himself up and eventually had the opportunity to buy the restaurant. From then on, he worked very hard in creating something that is unique in the world. As Ferran calls it: “the El Bulli magic and emotion”, draws people from all over the world to come to his establishment and to tell their friends how it was. A restaurant without menu’s and that only does dinner and accommodates a maximum of 60 guests which is only open between April and September. A logical question follows: how does he survive financially when you realise how many people work at the restaurant, and the fact that it is equipped with the only finest? According to Ferran, the restaurant does not make profit. He makes his money in writing cooking books and being a consultant to hotel groups. Also, he can choose between hundreds of students that want to have El Bulli on their CV, and they work for free: their accommodation and meals are taken care of. Therefore 30 students will be around the kitchen in addition to his very international crew. El Bulli has no specific menus and each guest gets their own menu. Once you have eaten once at the restaurant, they will have your details on computer, who you are, you nationality and what your preferences are. Not only do they check whether you have allergies for e.g. mussels, but they know what you ate on the previous visit. What is the El Bulli Magic? 3 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 One of our colleagues had the opportunity to experience El Bulli in 2006 and was prepared to write the following column for us, as he keeps accurate notes of each restaurant he visits: “At last, the grand finale of my holiday in Spain, dinner at El Bulli. Al the waiters are dressed in well tailored suits. We are shown to our table on the terrace with a view over the bay. The first course is served: a miniature champagne flute with a test tube next to it filled with a liquid that has 2 colours. The waiter bends down to us and tells us in a soft voice how and in a specific order to enjoy the course and also which ingredients have been incorporated in the dish. We follow his directions – swallow and we look at each other thinking: ‘Unbelievable, the taste!’ Before we can recollect what it was exactly, the next course is served. A little note gives the waiter the instructions as to how the dishes will follow each other and what the specific menu for the customer is. Several big square white plates come and go, and we yet have to get any cutlery. The next dish consists of 3 spoons lying on a cushion of fine ice. Once again we are instructed how to proceed and we get a full explanation of all the ingredients, but at this point we are not listening anymore, at least not with our ears. Our palette is buzzing with information and we are in a state of pure bliss. Already it is difficult to describe what we are tasting and I have to confess that what my eyes are seeing, is not what my palette is tasting. After the 20th dish, we get a knife and fork, because the 3 main courses are on their way. At this point I feel that there is probably only a small space in my appetite for a dessert, but decide that I am not at El Bulli everyday and I have to make the most of this opportunity. The 1st main course is a pasta dish with truffle sauce, and it melts on the tongue! It is more than just delicious. I have never had something quite similar than this. After a further 2 main courses, we are preparing for dessert. On a stainless-steel piece of art with interesting curls, we find a few ‘lollies’ that are almost see-through. There are little chocolates than doesn’t taste like chocolate, little crests with a caramel taste, a triangle filled with small raspberry coloured ice-cream balls and a green square with a white sphere in it. Apparently it is some type of ice cream and has to be eaten very quickly. By this time my hand knows what it should do and finds its way to my lips without much encouragement. Down below some fire-works is heard, as if someone knew that our dinner has finally reached its finale when we are served ‘normal’ coffee. This surely must be the best restaurant in the world?!. PS After this article was written, El Bulli restaurant (http://www.elbulli.com) was voted the best restaurant in the world for 2007. The S. Pellegrino list was launched in 2002 by Restaurant magazine, as a guide to "the best places to eat on Earth". 4 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 L’Histoire Cooking for Kings Antonin Carême –Tsars and emperors vied for his culinary genius, his lavish Napoleonic banquets were the stuff of legend in every noble house in Europe. Perhaps the best introduction to this remarkable man is to start with one of his famous recipes: Les Petits Vol-Au-Vents a la Nesle 20 vol-au-vent cases, the diameter of a glass 20 cocks-combs 20 cocks-stones (testes) 10 lambs sweetbreads (thymus and pancreatic glands, washed in water for five hours, until the liquid runs clear) 10 small truffles, pared, chopped, boiled in consommé 20 tiny mushrooms 20 lobster tails 4 fine whole lambs' brains, boiled and chopped 1 French loaf 2 spoonfuls chicken jelly 2 spoonfuls velouté sauce 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped mushrooms 4 egg yolks 2 chickens, boned 2 calves' udders 2 pints cream sauce Allemande salt, nutmeg Forcemeat: Crumb a whole French loaf. Add two spoonfuls of poultry jelly, one of velouté, one tablespoon of chopped parsley, two of mushrooms, chopped. Boil and stir as it thickens to a ball. Add two egg yolks. Pound the flesh of two boned chickens 5 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 through a sieve. Boil two calves' udders -- once cold, pound and pass through a sieve. Then, mix six ounces of the breadcrumbs panada to ten ounces of the chicken meat, and ten of the calves' udders and combine and pound for 15 minutes. Add five drams of salt, some nutmeg and the yolks of two more eggs and a spoonful of cold velouté or béchamel. Pound for a further ten minutes. Test by poaching a ball in boiling water -- it should form soft, smooth balls. Make some balls of poultry forcemeat in small coffee spoons, dip them in jelly broth and after draining on a napkin, place them regularly in the vol-au-vent, already half filled with: a good ragout of cocks-combs and stones (testicles) lambs' sweetbreads (thymus and pancreatic glands, washed in water for five hours, until the liquid runs clear) truffles mushrooms lobster tails four fine whole brains Cover all with an extra thick sauce Allemande. Carême's life is the amazing story of a rise from a life of abject poverty with no social connections to employment in several of the grandest courts and dining rooms in Europe. Born in Paris and abandoned there by his parents in 1792 at the height of chaos of the French Revolution, he worked as a kitchen boy at a cheap Parisian chophouse in exchange for room and board. In 1798, he was formally apprenticed to Sylvain Bailly, a famous pâtissier with a shop near the Palais-Royal. Bailly recognized his talent and ambition. Carême gained fame in Paris for his pièces montées, elaborate constructions used as centerpieces, which Bailly displayed in the pâtisserie window. He made these confections, which were sometimes several feet high, entirely out of foodstuffs such as sugar, marzipan, and pastry. He modeled them on temples, pyramids, and ancient ruins, taking ideas from architectural history books that he studied at the nearby Bibliothéque Nationale. Utilizing his previous architectural knowledge coupled with culinary genius, some of his sugar works were so elaborate that court jesters would dance upon them while entertaining the king. He did freelance work creating centrepieces principally for the French diplomat and gourmand Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord, but also other members of Parisian high society, including Napoleon. While working on his confections at many private kitchens, he quickly extended his culinary skills to main courses. In 1804 Napoleon gave money to Talleyrand to purchase Château de Valençay, a large estate outside of Paris. The château was intended to act as a kind of diplomatic gathering place. When Talleyrand moved there, he took Carême with him. 6 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 Carême was set a test by Talleyrand: to create a whole year’s worth of menus, without repetition, and using only seasonal produce. Carême passed the test and completed his training in Talleyrand's kitchens. After the fall of Napoléon, Carême went to London for a time and served as chef de cuisine to the Prince Regent, later George IV. Returning to the continent he served Tsar Alexander I in St. Petersburg, before returning to Paris, where he was chef to banker James Mayer Rothschild. Carême's impact on culinary matters ranged from trivial to theoretical. He is credited with creating the standard chef's hat, the toque; he designed new sauces and dishes, he published a classification of all sauces into groups, based on four mother sauces. Carême wrote several encyclopedic works on cookery, above all L'Art de la Cuisine Française (5 vols, 1833–34), which included, aside from hundreds of recipes, plans for menus and opulent table settings, a history of French cookery, and instructions for organizing kitchens. In another of his books Le Cuisinier Parisien, published in 1828, he explains the principals for making classic chaudfroids and aspic dishes (Chaudfroids are small pieces of meat, fish, poultry or game, glazed in a brown or white sauce, then glazed with aspic). This is an art, which has not significantly developed since then, but an art that is now fading away. But even the great can make mistakes and it was with aspic the Carême once had a major disaster. The isinglass (a type of gelatin) failed to arrive and, foolishly, Carême tried to mold his charlottes without it; they wobbled so dangerously when turned out that they were unusable. He never forgot the disgrace. He died in Paris at the age of 48, and is remembered as the founder of the haute cuisine concept. He is buried in the Cimetière de Montmartre in Montmartre. Flannerie Bonaparte has decided to recreate the Wedding Cakes of Carême, to bring back the splendour of the late 1800’s and make them available for weddings and parties. See preliminary design under ‘New Creations’, and also in the June edition of the magazine ‘Wedding Album’. 7 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 Colonne du Gourmet Macarons, or Luxemburgerli? If you ever walked the streets of Paris in early Autumn, when the air is crisp and the light seems to be softer – almost like a potrait with soft focus to creative a feel of romantism – it becomes a pleasure to sit down on a terrace in the gentle rays of the sun to have your afernoon tea and something special with it. For me a macaron is the perfect accompaniment with black tea (without cream and sugar of course to give your palette the opportunity to really taste the flavours) and surely the busling of the city becomes a movie without a sound track. My brain only registers the cracking sound as I bite through the thin crust and my tongue curls with pleasure when the soft interior starts melting in my mouth. Not only do I taste the pistacchio, but the soft bouquet rises into my nose and the circle is round as I watch the shiny little domes on my plate. I always adored macarons, even before I new how difficult it was to make the perfect macaron. It is uncomplicated in its design and yet very special, because all your senses are playing together when you bite into one. It is one of those ‘patisserie mediums’ where the establishment that makes them can prove how creative and good they really are. Perhaps like an omelette for a chef? So what is a macaron really? Larousse Gastronomique says ‘that macaroons originated in Venice during the Renaissance, and that the word macarons comes from the Italian “maccherone” which means fine dough. The Venetian word was “macerone” and the English term, “macaroon,” was derived from the French version, “macaron.” As with the Madeleine, there are competing stories about the cookie’s origin; some say the cake comes from a cloister in Cormery, made to resemble a monk’s belly; Montmorillon shaped their macarons like little crowns; those from Nancy were renowned, made by the nuns of Sainte Thérèse d'Avila. Like their sisters who made Madeleines, several nuns hiding out after 8 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 the French Revolution made macarons in Nancy and became known as Soeurs macarons, the “macaroon sisters.” The street was later named after them and today you can still buy macarons at a shop on that street. At the turn of the nineteenth century, nuns of the Carmetlite community were persecuted to such a degree that today in Spain, their order continues to sell macaroons, but do not interact with the public; money and pastries are exchanged via a revolving door where a buyer pulls a bell-rope. The Italian version of macarons is called Amaretti, which mean "the little bitter ones." They are flavored with bitter almonds, hence their name’. The French macaron has gained international fame and is made by several well-known patisseries in Paris, the likes of Ladurée, Pierre Hermé, Dalloyau, Fauchon and many more. The macarons these patisseries make have become famous and are commonly know as the macaron parisien, these however, are not the only types that exist. The making of these delicacies can be traced back to the 17th century when cities such as St Emilion, Saint Jean de Luz, Boulay, Montmorillon, Lauzerte, Nancy, Châteaulin etc made it their speciality. They all had slight differences although the basic ingredients are almond powder, sugar, egg white and a few secret additives (which are different for each patisserie and also for Flannerie Bonaparte). The smooth almond meringue sandwiched together by a creamy filling only started showing their appearance in the early 20th century when Parisians started to create shinier, colourful versions assembled with a ganache or butter cream. There are obviously more varieties and in the North of France one finds the macaron from Amiens which comes as a flat disk and wrapped in golden foil. They are denser in texture, crusty but very moist inside. Macarons are made in more flavours than one cares to note. At Flannerie Bonaparte, in addition to the more conventional flavours, we also have a collection of flowers: geraniums, voilet, roses, tulips and cactus flower. We also make a croquembouche with macarons (see picture). People who visit Zurich regularly will know the Luxemburgerli (or in French: Luxembourger) is the name of a type of biscuit that was made famous by Confiserie Sprüngli in Zurich, Switzerland. Similar to the small French macaron, they consist of a top and bottom with a rich cream filling in the center. Each ‘sprüngli’ is about two-and-a-half centimetres in diameter. Luxemburgerli were invented by the confectioner Camille Studer who brought the recipe to Zurich after originally creating them in a French sugar bakery in 1967. There, the recipe was refined for a confectionery contest. The name Luxemburgerli derives from the nickname which a colleague gave to Studer whose family originated in Luxembourg. The original name, Baiser de Mousse (foam kiss in French), not being felt appropriate for the new creation, was changed to Gebäck des Luxemburgers ("the Luxemburger's cookie") which became, in Swiss-German dialect, Luxemburgerli ("little Luxembourger"). Interestingly, Luxemburgerli are not especially popular in Luxembourg itself! 9 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 One fine day in Zurich, towards the end of the 1950s, a young confectioner from Luxembourg started producing the speciality of his mentor at home. Initially, the product was anything but a top seller. The macaroons were sold, but without much enthusiasm. More out of embarrassment than anything else, the delicate biscuits were christened 'Luxemburgerli' after their place of origin, a name, incidentally, that is not used in Luxembourg itself. Because it takes time and effort to make them by hand in a process requiring a very stable touch, the new speciality was by no means pushed, and when the young confectioner returned home it proved very difficult to find a worthy successor. Over the years, however, the citizens of Zurich slowly acquired a taste for Luxemburgerli. Demand grew steadily and Sprüngli now produces an average of 650 kg every day, making them the most popular and best-known product in the Sprüngli range. Their fame has since spread far beyond Zurich and even Switzerland. Are macarons and Luxemburgerli the same thing? We will buy some in Geneve during the 2nd week in May and we will report back in our next newsletter. Célébrité Very often in discussion we are asked questions about the ‘classical training’ and the ‘philosophies’ where confectionery should be going and what are the real trends in fine pâtisserie. What better way to create a platform where we feature established pâtissiers around the world to give their opinion on these questions: Forian Bellanger – Pastry Chef of Fauchon in New York 10 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 Philosophy on Pastry: Make customers happy. Make cakes as light as possible, not too sweet. I became a Pastry Chef because I always have been in love with sweets (I could live on sweets only!) and for me a great cake is a cake that I want to eat another slice of. As a chef, I also feel that it is important to help pastry students by giving them knowledge and also transmitting the love of this profession. Working in pastry brings so much satisfaction and pride. I always encourage young chefs to keep going. It is a tough job, long hours etc., but it is so rewarding. It is more than a job; it is a passion. Formerly of: Le Barnardin, La Maison du Chocolat, Fauchon Paris and Fauchon Qatar. Training: Ecole de Paris des Metiers de la Table. I graduated in pastry after 2 years, trained there for another year specialising in chocolate and ice creams. Awards: One of the “10 Best Pastry Chefs in America’ by the Pastry Art and Design (2 years in a row – 2003 and 2004). Nominated Best Pastry Chef by James Beard Foundation (2000 and 2001). Essential Tools: Hand tool: A small stainless steep spatula with a wood handle given to me by my parents when I was 16 years old and decided to train in pastry. I use this spatula all the time; it is always close to me and it is the only hand tool I am very protective of. I never lend it to anyone. It followed me everywhere for 20 years. Once I forgot it during an event in California. When I got back to New York, I became so nervous, I called the hotel 20 times to make sure they find it, and insisted they Fedex it back to me. Favourite Ingredients: Chocolate – it is fun and versatile. It can be used in any recipe and 99% of consumers love it. We take chocolate for granted, but when you think of it, it is just amazing how a bean discovered 500 years ago became such a great product. Top Tips for Dessert Success: 1) A great combination of flavours (2 to 3 flavours maximum in one dessert; otherwise it gets confusing) 2) Light and creamy (work on the texture and make sure the entire dessert is not too sweet) 3) Have something crunchy in your dessert 4) Decoration has to be edible and has to be part of the dessert (If you think the decoration on your dessert is not part of the dessert in taste and texture, it means it is useless). 11 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 Mentor and Pastry: My mentor who became my friend and played a big role in my professional life is Pierre Hermé. I have a great respect for him as a professional and also as a person. He helped pastry to become recognized as an art all over the world. He is like part of my family. Emerging Trends in Pastry Arts: I see a big trend emerging especially for pastry boutiques. Cakes are getting modernized. The pastry chefs in restaurants are starting to look at desserts like cooks look at a dish, meaning they are cooking fruits à la minute, and using ultra-fresh products. We are far away from the crème brulée done 20 years ago in restaurants. Pastry retail stores will eventually become that way also. You see pastry shops emerging all over the city, and the cakes sold in these retail stores are getting much more interesting. Horticulture By Bartholomew Bacchus 1500 square metres of wine! Why Rockefeller and Rothchild came to Monaco… The harbour and Place du Casino are Deep under the foundations of probably the most well known features of Monaco. On this square you will find Hôtel de Paris, created in the Hermitage, Hôtel de Paris (which hosts rock of Monte Carlo, is one of restaurant Louis XIV – featured in a previous newsletter), Café de Paris and the biggest wine cellars in the of course the casino. world. No entry for tourists and Hôtel de Paris, which was built in 1864 by out of sight of the hotel guests, prince Charles III, offers accommodation ranging between €465 and €8700 400 000 very valuable and (depending on the season and room) and boast an impressive guest list with names the likes of Rockefeller, Rothchild, carefully selected wine bottles Vanderbilt, King Gustav V of Sweden, the Windsors and many more. are awaiting to be enjoyed.. 12 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 The most impressive thing about this 1990 (€ 1,200), a Roederer Cristal 1995 hotel is its wine cellar. Ten years after (€450) or a Bolliger tradition ‘RD’ 1973 (€ the hotel was built, Marie Blanc 517). instructed that a wine cellar should be created in the rock under the hotel. Close to the entrance is a metal gate When she died in 1881, the wine cellar leading to the ‘Musée Marie Blanc’ which with its contents was sold for a mere is not bigger than 3m x 4m where the €76,000. Today the cellar has a surface most precious wines are kept, for area of 1,500 m2 and contains about instance a 1850 Margaux (Château Bel Air 400,000 bottles of wine (interesting fact: – Marguis d’Aligre), a Château Gruaud although smaller in size, the wine cellar Larose from 1865, some Cognac from of restaurant La Tour D’Argent in Paris 1800. An interesting aspect of these has 500,000 bottles) and other exclusive alcoholic beverages. Only three people have a key to the heavy iron gate: Noël Bajor (sommerlier of the Louis XV), Gennaro Iorio and the manager of the Hotel. It also goes without saying that the security is vital, as some of the wines in this cellar are almost priceless. With an average temperature of between 11 and 13°C and a constant humidity of 75% it is ideal as a wine cellar. The cheapest wine in the cellar is a Côte de wines are that during World War II, they Provence for €56 and the most expensive were transferred to one of the deepest a Pétrus Pomerol from 1945 for €13.368! areas of the cellar, and thousands of On the question of how many of these empty bottles were placed in front of wines gets sold and by whom, stays a bit them creating the image that nothing of of secret. The only answer one gets is value was among them. For wine lovers that these wines are either ordered by and historians this piece of ‘heaven’ is wine specialists or rich people who want sacred and most of us will never be able to impress their guests. Between 90,000 to cast an eye on any of these wines, and and 100,000 bottles of champagne are with that knowledge I take another sip of lying here, such as Krug Collection my glass of Chateau Migraine of 2006.. (€2,423), Moët & Chandon Dom Perignon Rosé from 13 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 La Recette du Mois The Cruise-Ship Dessert We call this the Cruise Ship dessert as during a cruise on the Caribbean, we attend a cooking class and this dessert was demonstrated. It is probably one of the easiest desserts you can make and also foolproof. Ingredients: The combination of the 3 ingredients must be 1/3 of each, whatever amount you want to make. If you need enough for 6 people, measure the ramekin’s volume e.g. 100ml x 6 = 600ml. You will then need 200ml of each ingredient 200ml Greek Full Cream Yogurt 200ml Condensed Milk 200ml Double Cream Mix the ingredients in a bowl together and pour into the ramekins. Fill a baking tray half with water and place in an oven at 180°C. Place the ramekins on the tray in the water and bake for 20min. Take them out of the oven and let it cool before you decorate with sugar (blow-torch to caramelize), star anise and cinnamon sticks. 14 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 Dans la Cuisine DEEP FRYING BELOW ZERO ° Once again we introduce a new technique that is being used more often in the pâtisserie, called Cryo-Frying. Deep-frying at – 196°C. Of all the techniques we have introduced, this process is one of the most creative – although potentially very dangerous. When frying with liquid nitrogen at -196°C, one has to take certain precautions such as wearing protective glasses and clothing, as it does not only cause a slight burn but one could loose a finger or more. It requires concentration and when dipping something, there is a specific waiting time before it is eatable as it could cause severe burning. When you dip something in the liquid nitrogen, it will freeze almost instantaneously. This provides a way of creating 15 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 interesting structures, textures and colours. As an example we take a small ball of sorbet and ‘fry’ it for 60 seconds. In the meantime we prepare two bowls with coconut milk and passion-fruit purée, which is a beautiful bright yellow colour. When the ice cream ball comes out of the nitrogen, drop it in the passion fruit puree and cover. Fry it again for approximately 60 seconds, after which it is dropped in the coconut milk and back into the nitrogen. Do this a few times and let it ‘rest’ for 3 hours in the freezer. You end up with a very interesting looking ball of ice cream which, when cut through the middle will enhance the looks of your plating design. Make your own chocolate décor at home Be creative and try making your own décor at home for desserts or cakes. For this exercise you need couverture chocolate (in this case dark chocolate with 55% + cacao), a piping bag, a metal container and pure alcohol (92%). Put the alcohol in the freezer to cool down to -18°C. Melt the chocolate and pour into a piping bag with a small nozzle. Pipe the melted chocolate into the cold alcohol and be sure to make quick round movements with your hand. Take the chocolate out and let the alcohol evaporate. You can keep it in a container with a bag of silicon to keep the moisture out. 16 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 Spécials and New Creations When we were approached by a magazine to do a Photo-shoot with ‘Marie-Antionette-style’ confectionery, which is very much our style, we then made the decision to bring back the Wedding Cakes of the late 1800’s as designed and created by Marie Antione Carême. We love the decadence and opulent beauty of these wedding cakes. These wedding cakes will incorporate elaborate chocolate -, sugar creations and décor in the true style as they were made in the time of Napoleon. We believe it is time to introduce something different and special and in line with our motto of everything, including the decorations, should be eatable and that it should be as delicious as it looks. One of the most exciting pieces of confectionery that was developed during April must be the Gâteau au Marron – a chestnut cake. Without a doubt, it is one of the finest gateaux we have ever tasted – ‘goose bumps stuff’ as one of my confectioners described it aptly. Try it yourself and give us feed-back. It will be included on our website under ‘Emperor Collection’. When we introduced the Gateau Basque, which is from the Basque region of France, we were asked whether we could also do some of the other regional specialities, such as the Bois de Boulogne. It should be popular in South Africa too as it is a rich cake covered with two types of chocolate and hazelnuts. We will extend the list of regional specialities to bring you the best of France and Belgium. 17 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 Every Saturday we also introduce a few new products at the Neighbour Goods Market on Albert Road and we test the feedback of customers. François Dolci is also making delicious crêpes (original Le Notre recipe..) with decadent fillings such as vanilla cream, roasted banana with nutella and a splash of Amarula. It has become very popular! To accompany either a warm waffle or crêpe, we are making hot chocolate with Belgian couverture chocolate. What a way to start a Saturday morning! Culinary Crossword Our culinary crossword will definitely test your culinary knowledge, and should you be able to complete it, either send or fax us your answer and you could win R 250.00 worth of confectionery of your choice! Crossword # 3 1 2 3 4 5 1 2 6 7 3 4 8 9 10 11 5 6 12 7 8 13 14 15 9 10 16 11 12 13 14 15 17 18 19 16 17 18 19 20 21 18 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 Down: 1. Middle-Eastern delicacy mainly Across: made of chick-peas 2. The French version of the 1. Staple of Morocco Sprüngli 2. Square ‘croissant’ baked with 3. The 2nd biggest restaurant chocolate guide in France 3. Tony Roma’s in the USA is 4. Pancake famous for this 5. Famous chef and patissier born 4. Whipped cream June 8, 1784 and was known 5. City in France famous for its best for his piece montée’s good-tasting chickens 6. Shop that makes sweets and 6. Herring is mainly fished in the candy North … 7. What makes a margarita 7. Main ingredient of the Gateau cocktail good au Marron from Flannerie 8. Vital ingredient in Thai curry Bonaparte 9. 19th century used instead of 8. If it sinks in water, it is not gelatine fresh 10. Spanish dish made of rice 9. Just voted as the #1 number 11. ‘Thousand leaves’, also known restaurant in the world for as a Napoleon pastry 2007 12. A pyramid of profiteroles for 10. Purple fruit, with white flesh special occasions and black pips 13. A German snack-bar 11. Bavarian Cream 14. City in which the 1st Patisserie 12. Delicious with white cheese boutique shop opened in 2005 13. Original form of chocolate 15. Capital with beautiful 14. Salmon … cathedral and capital of the 15. Kind of wild duck French champagne region 16. Clear soup sometimes serves 16. Water-based ice cream with a quail egg 17. Maximum amount of starts to 17. Sri Lanka is famous for growing receive on the Michelin it restaurant rating 18. Restaurant in Paris boasting to 18. Kind of fish have the most bottles of wine 19. French wine region in its cellar 19. Pastry to make profiteroles 20. La Messe des Truffles festival takes place here 2nd half of January every year 21. 3 L champagne bottle E-mail your answer to firstname.lastname@example.org or fax to 021-552 8382 19 A la Carte Bonaparte March, April & May ‘07 We have a winner for the previous crossword: Mr Marc Wüst of Cape Town - Congratulations Marc! Answer to Crossword # 2 Worth Mentioning The World Food Market will take place in Paris on the 6th and 7th of June 2007 in the Paris Expo (at the pereferique exit Porte de Versailles), which is one of the major shows in Europe every year with more than 35 countries participating and definitely worth visiting. Perhaps already put the following in your diary as the following are some of the finest patisserie exhibitions in the world: 1. Europain in Paris between 29 March and 2 April 2008 2. Bakkerij Dagen in Amsterdam 2 – 4 March 2008 We are contemplating to offer once again pâtisserie courses in July/Aug 2007 again, and would like to get an idea of how many people would be interested. We would be doing specialised breads, baking and chocolaterie again and even sugar work should there be enough interest. If you are interested, send us an e-mail to email@example.com (Re: pastry courses). Please note we can take a maximum of 8 students at a time. “Flannerie Bonaparte aspires to be the finest Pâtisserie and Confiserie in Cape Town; providing our distinguished and select customers with decadent confectionery and chocolates, something we care enough about to make them individually by hand, accompanied by a smile and a 5-star customer service” Tel: 021-5528381 Fax: 021-5528382 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org www.bonaparte.co.za 20
"Newsletter 2nd Quarter"