Documents
Resources
Learning Center
Upload
Plans & pricing Sign in
Sign Out

Newsletter 2nd Quarter

VIEWS: 98 PAGES: 20

									A la Carte Bonaparte                                          March, April & May ‘07




Our newsletter is not a mere newsletter anymore, but rather a small magazine and
perhaps not the ideal medium to get everyone’s attention span. However, due to feed-
back from our readers we decided not to shorten it to a single or double A4 with PR
material, but rather to create a platform to discuss good food, interesting culinary
facts around the world and introduce techniques utilised in the pâtisserie.

Listening to people and their experiences was one of my favourite things when I was a
child and I still find myself hanging on someone’s lips when they talk about moments in
time during their travels and visits to all parts of the world, especially when it comes
to food. For this reason I have asked a few colleagues working in different countries in
the world to write a column for our newsletter on their most interesting experiences in
restaurants, bakeries or anything else regarding food. I sincerely hope that our readers
will also enjoy this and perhaps also share some of their experiences with us. With
sharing knowledge and experience, we become so much more ‘rich’ in our
understanding and thus appreciate so much more.

This edition is filled with classical delicacies, which many readers will know, but
perhaps we can highlight a different view or add some history that someone did not
know before. It has been, and still is ‘high’ season for wedding ceremonies and we
have decided to introduce the wedding cakes of Antonin Carême, perhaps the most
famous pâtissier ever. In the late 1800’s he was the ‘celebrity’ chef in Paris and was
the personal chef of the rich and famous, such as the Rothchild family. His desserts,
pièce montée’s and sugar displays were awe-inspiring, and we could not find anyone
anywhere (yet) in the world that specialise in baroque cakes of the 19 century anymore
and decided that we will add this phenomena to our repertoire. Later in the newsletter
we will show you some sketches of gateaux that we will be making. To properly display
these creations, we had to go antique hunting in Europe to find cake stands that would
fit the period and design.

From Switzerland we bring you a Swiss speciality, the Luxemburgerli. Next time we will
report on a visit to Geneva and what it has to offer for the connoisseur.


We have the following on our menu:

   -   Letters from our customers

   -   A la Carte: El Bulli – The best restaurant in the world?

   -   L’ Histoire: We introduce Antonin Carême –Cooking for Kings
   -
   -   Colonne du Gourmet: Macarons – The Parisien delicacy




                                            1
A la Carte Bonaparte                                               March, April & May ‘07

    -     Célébrité – Comments from well-known Pâtissiers and chefs

    -     Horticulture – From beneath the rocks in Monaco..
    -
    -     Recipe of the month

    -     Dans la Cuisine: Once again we introduce new techniques

    -     Specials and New Creations
    -
    -     Culinary Crossword
    -
    -     Worth Mentioning

                             Letters from our Readers

Letter of the month:

The ‘letter of the month’ is from Liz Brouckaert, and she gets a voucher worth
R89.00 for confectionery of her choice:

She writes:

“I am the person that bought your last chocolate croissant and three delicious chocolates....
which I wanted to last the whole weekend and perhaps give one to my sweetheart but it didn't
get past 2pm Saturday....hmmm very engaging and potentially terribly fattening.

I forgot to mention that I fairly regularly make my own wood fired pizzas and have been
wanting to source the best kind of white bread flour for this..

..I went onto your website and was very impressed, lovely range.” For your information, I
noted a typo on the scroll down menu for categories 'special occassions' occasion is spelt
with one s.

Thanks for raising the bench mark on tarts and other edible darlings to lead us all astray”..

Dear Liz,

First of all thank you for indicating the spelling mistake on our website, we have corrected
it immediately.

It’s lovely to hear when someone is looking for good ingredients and we are always keen to
assist in any way we can.

On the fattening issue: One does not indulge everyday, but when you do decide to having
something special, then nothing other than the best is good enough. It is all about
moderation and keeping an active life-style, but also to enjoy the finer things in life; and
for us it is good food and especially fantastic desserts or fine pâtisserie of course.


Regards
FB




                                               2
A la Carte Bonaparte                                       March, April & May ‘07


                                      A la Carte




The magic of Ferran Adria
Ferran Adria, the best chef in the world? His restaurant El Bulli has 3
stars in the ‘Guide Michelin’. He is not a chef anymore, but rather a food
psychiatrist. Someone that will analyse a piece of meat to the bone, to
create an animal-friendly, tongue soothing, and appealing ‘tapa’, after
which you will ask yourself: “was that meat”? A place you have to
experience (just make sure to have a reservation at least 6 months in
advance..)
In Rosas, 200km north from Barcelona is the
Valhalla of cuisine art, restaurant El Bulli.
Ferran Adria that started to work at the
restaurant as plate washer worked himself up
and eventually had the opportunity to buy the
restaurant. From then on, he worked very hard
in creating something that is unique in the
world. As Ferran calls it: “the El Bulli magic
and emotion”, draws people from all over the
world to come to his establishment and to tell
their friends how it was. A restaurant without
menu’s and that only does dinner and
accommodates a maximum of 60 guests which
is only open between April and September. A
logical question follows: how does he survive
financially when you realise how many people
work at the restaurant, and the fact that it is
equipped with the only finest?

According to Ferran, the restaurant does not make profit. He makes his money in
writing cooking books and being a consultant to hotel groups. Also, he can choose
between hundreds of students that want to have El Bulli on their CV, and they work for
free: their accommodation and meals are taken care of. Therefore 30 students will be
around the kitchen in addition to his very international crew.

El Bulli has no specific menus and each guest gets their own menu. Once you have
eaten once at the restaurant, they will have your details on computer, who you are,
you nationality and what your preferences are. Not only do they check whether you
have allergies for e.g. mussels, but they know what you ate on the previous visit.

What is the El Bulli Magic?



                                          3
A la Carte Bonaparte                                            March, April & May ‘07

One of our colleagues had the opportunity to experience El Bulli in 2006 and was prepared
to write the following column for us, as he keeps accurate notes of each restaurant he
visits:

                                                     “At last, the grand finale of my holiday
                                                     in Spain, dinner at El Bulli. Al the
                                                     waiters are dressed in well tailored
                                                     suits. We are shown to our table on the
                                                     terrace with a view over the bay. The
                                                     first course is served: a miniature
                                                     champagne flute with a test tube next
                                                     to it filled with a liquid that has 2
                                                     colours. The waiter bends down to us
                                                     and tells us in a soft voice how and in a
                                                     specific order to enjoy the course and
                                                     also which ingredients have been
                                                     incorporated in the dish. We follow his
                                                     directions – swallow and we look at each
                                                     other thinking: ‘Unbelievable, the
                                                     taste!’ Before we can recollect what it
                                                     was exactly, the next course is served.
A little note gives the waiter the instructions as to how the dishes will follow each other
and what the specific menu for the customer is. Several big square white plates come and
go, and we yet have to get any cutlery. The next dish consists of 3 spoons lying on a
cushion of fine ice. Once again we are instructed how to proceed and we get a full
explanation of all the ingredients, but at this point we are not listening anymore, at least
not with our ears. Our palette is buzzing with information and we are in a state of pure
bliss. Already it is difficult to describe what we are tasting and I have to confess that what
my eyes are seeing, is not what my palette is tasting.

After the 20th dish, we get a knife and fork, because
the 3 main courses are on their way. At this point I
feel that there is probably only a small space in my
appetite for a dessert, but decide that I am not at El
Bulli everyday and I have to make the most of this
opportunity. The 1st main course is a pasta dish with
truffle sauce, and it melts on the tongue! It is more
than just delicious. I have never had something quite
similar than this. After a further 2 main courses, we
are preparing for dessert.

On a stainless-steel piece of art with interesting curls, we find a few ‘lollies’ that are
almost see-through. There are little chocolates than doesn’t taste like chocolate, little
crests with a caramel taste, a triangle filled with small raspberry coloured ice-cream balls
and a green square with a white sphere in it. Apparently it is some type of ice cream and
has to be eaten very quickly. By this time my hand knows what it should do and finds its
way to my lips without much encouragement. Down below some fire-works is heard, as if
someone knew that our dinner has finally reached its finale when we are served ‘normal’
coffee. This surely must be the best restaurant in the world?!.

PS After this article was written, El Bulli restaurant (http://www.elbulli.com) was
voted the best restaurant in the world for 2007. The S. Pellegrino list was
launched in 2002 by Restaurant magazine, as a guide to "the best places to eat
on Earth".




                                              4
A la Carte Bonaparte                                        March, April & May ‘07


                                    L’Histoire




                        Cooking for Kings

    Antonin Carême –Tsars and emperors vied for his
  culinary genius, his lavish Napoleonic banquets were
   the stuff of legend in every noble house in Europe.
Perhaps the best introduction to this remarkable man is to start with one of his famous
recipes:

                                            Les Petits Vol-Au-Vents a la Nesle


                                            20 vol-au-vent cases, the diameter of a
                                            glass
                                            20 cocks-combs
                                            20 cocks-stones (testes)
                                            10 lambs sweetbreads (thymus and
                                            pancreatic glands, washed in water for
                                            five hours, until the liquid runs clear)
                                            10 small truffles, pared, chopped, boiled
                                            in consommé
                                            20 tiny mushrooms
                                            20 lobster tails
                                            4 fine whole lambs' brains, boiled and
                                            chopped
                                            1 French loaf
                                            2 spoonfuls chicken jelly
                                            2 spoonfuls velouté sauce
                                            1 tablespoon chopped parsley
                                            2 tablespoons chopped mushrooms
                                            4 egg yolks
                                            2 chickens, boned
                                            2 calves' udders
                                            2 pints cream
                                            sauce Allemande
                                            salt, nutmeg

                                            Forcemeat:

Crumb a whole French loaf. Add two spoonfuls of poultry jelly, one of velouté, one
tablespoon of chopped parsley, two of mushrooms, chopped. Boil and stir as it
thickens to a ball. Add two egg yolks. Pound the flesh of two boned chickens



                                           5
A la Carte Bonaparte                                          March, April & May ‘07

through a sieve. Boil two calves' udders -- once cold, pound and pass through a
sieve.

Then, mix six ounces of the breadcrumbs panada to ten ounces of the chicken
meat, and ten of the calves' udders and combine and pound for 15 minutes. Add
five drams of salt, some nutmeg and the yolks of two more eggs and a spoonful of
cold velouté or béchamel. Pound for a further ten minutes. Test by poaching a ball
in boiling water -- it should form soft, smooth balls. Make some balls of poultry
forcemeat in small coffee spoons, dip them in jelly broth and after draining on a
napkin, place them regularly in the vol-au-vent, already half filled with:

a good ragout of cocks-combs and stones (testicles)
lambs' sweetbreads (thymus and pancreatic glands, washed in water for five hours,
until the liquid runs clear)
truffles
mushrooms
lobster tails
four fine whole brains

Cover all with an extra thick sauce Allemande.

Carême's life is the amazing story of a rise from a life of
abject poverty with no social connections to employment
in several of the grandest courts and dining rooms in
Europe.

Born in Paris and abandoned there by his parents in 1792
at the height of chaos of the French Revolution, he
worked as a kitchen boy at a cheap Parisian chophouse in
exchange for room and board. In 1798, he was formally
apprenticed to Sylvain Bailly, a famous pâtissier with a
shop near the Palais-Royal. Bailly recognized his talent
and ambition.

Carême gained fame in Paris for his pièces montées,
elaborate constructions used as centerpieces, which
Bailly displayed in the pâtisserie window. He made these
confections, which were sometimes several feet high,
entirely out of foodstuffs such as sugar, marzipan, and
pastry. He modeled them on temples, pyramids, and ancient ruins, taking ideas from
architectural history books that he studied at the nearby Bibliothéque Nationale.
Utilizing his previous architectural knowledge coupled with culinary genius, some of his
sugar works were so elaborate that court jesters would dance upon them while
entertaining the king.

He did freelance work creating centrepieces principally for the French diplomat and
gourmand Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord, but also other members of Parisian
high society, including Napoleon. While working on his confections at many private
kitchens, he quickly extended his culinary skills to main courses.

In 1804 Napoleon gave money to Talleyrand to purchase Château de Valençay, a large
estate outside of Paris. The château was intended to act as a kind of diplomatic
gathering place. When Talleyrand moved there, he took Carême with him.




                                            6
A la Carte Bonaparte                                          March, April & May ‘07

Carême was set a test by
Talleyrand: to create a whole
year’s worth of menus, without
repetition, and using only
seasonal    produce.    Carême
passed the test and completed
his training in Talleyrand's
kitchens. After the fall of
Napoléon, Carême went to
London for a time and served as
chef de cuisine to the Prince
Regent,    later  George     IV.
Returning to the continent he
served Tsar Alexander I in St.
Petersburg, before returning to
Paris, where he was chef to
banker James Mayer Rothschild.

Carême's impact on culinary
matters ranged from trivial to
theoretical. He is credited with
creating the standard chef's hat,
the toque; he designed new
sauces and dishes, he published
a classification of all sauces into
groups, based on four mother
sauces.

Carême         wrote       several
encyclopedic works on cookery,
above all L'Art de la Cuisine
Française (5 vols, 1833–34),
which included, aside from
hundreds of recipes, plans for menus and opulent table settings, a history of French
cookery, and instructions for organizing kitchens. In another of his books Le Cuisinier
Parisien, published in 1828, he explains the principals for making classic chaudfroids
and aspic dishes (Chaudfroids are small pieces of meat, fish, poultry or game, glazed in
a brown or white sauce, then glazed with aspic). This is an art, which has not
significantly developed since then, but an art that is now fading away. But even the
great can make mistakes and it was with aspic the Carême once had a major disaster.
The isinglass (a type of gelatin) failed to arrive and, foolishly, Carême tried to mold his
charlottes without it; they wobbled so dangerously when turned out that they were
unusable. He never forgot the disgrace.

He died in Paris at the age of 48, and is remembered as the founder of the haute
cuisine concept. He is buried in the Cimetière de Montmartre in Montmartre.

Flannerie Bonaparte has decided to recreate the Wedding Cakes of Carême, to
bring back the splendour of the late 1800’s and make them available for weddings
and parties. See preliminary design under ‘New Creations’, and also in the June
edition of the magazine ‘Wedding Album’.




                                            7
A la Carte Bonaparte                                         March, April & May ‘07


                               Colonne du Gourmet


                                Macarons,

                                       or
       Luxemburgerli?

If you ever walked the streets of Paris in early Autumn, when the air is crisp
and the light seems to be softer – almost like a potrait with soft focus to
creative a feel of romantism – it becomes a pleasure to sit down on a
terrace in the gentle rays of the sun to have your afernoon tea and
something special with it.
                            For me a macaron is the perfect accompaniment with black
                            tea (without cream and sugar of course to give your palette
                            the opportunity to really taste the flavours) and surely the
                            busling of the city becomes a movie without a sound track.
                            My brain only registers the cracking sound as I bite through
                            the thin crust and my tongue curls with pleasure when the

soft interior starts melting in my mouth. Not only do
I taste the pistacchio, but the soft bouquet rises into
my nose and the circle is round as I watch the shiny
little domes on my plate.

I always adored macarons, even before I new how
difficult it was to make the perfect macaron. It is
uncomplicated in its design and yet very special,
because all your senses are playing together when
you bite into one. It is one of those ‘patisserie
mediums’ where the establishment that makes them
can prove how creative and good they really are.
Perhaps like an omelette for a chef?

So what is a macaron really?

Larousse Gastronomique says ‘that macaroons
originated in Venice during the Renaissance, and
that the word macarons comes from the Italian “maccherone” which means fine
dough. The Venetian word was “macerone” and the English term, “macaroon,” was
derived from the French version, “macaron.” As with the Madeleine, there are
competing stories about the cookie’s origin; some say the cake comes from a cloister
in Cormery, made to resemble a monk’s belly; Montmorillon shaped their macarons
like little crowns; those from Nancy were renowned, made by the nuns of Sainte
Thérèse d'Avila. Like their sisters who made Madeleines, several nuns hiding out after


                                            8
A la Carte Bonaparte                                         March, April & May ‘07

                                    the French Revolution made macarons in Nancy and
                                    became known as Soeurs macarons, the “macaroon
                                    sisters.” The street was later named after them
                                    and today you can still buy macarons at a shop on
                                    that street. At the turn of the nineteenth century,
                                    nuns of the Carmetlite community were
                                    persecuted to such a degree that today in Spain,
                                    their order continues to sell macaroons, but do not
                                    interact with the public; money and pastries are
                                    exchanged via a revolving door where a buyer pulls
                                    a bell-rope. The Italian version of macarons is
                                    called Amaretti, which mean "the little bitter
                                    ones." They are flavored with bitter almonds,
                                    hence their name’.

                                     The French macaron has gained international fame
                                     and is made by several well-known patisseries in
                                     Paris, the likes of Ladurée, Pierre Hermé, Dalloyau,
                                     Fauchon and many more. The macarons these
                                     patisseries make have become famous and are
                                     commonly know as the macaron parisien, these
however, are not the only types that exist. The making of these delicacies can be
traced back to the 17th century when cities such as St Emilion, Saint Jean de Luz,
Boulay, Montmorillon, Lauzerte, Nancy, Châteaulin etc made it their speciality. They
all had slight differences although the basic ingredients are almond powder, sugar, egg
white and a few secret additives (which are different for each patisserie and also for
Flannerie Bonaparte). The smooth almond meringue sandwiched together by a creamy
filling only started showing their appearance in the early 20th century when Parisians
started to create shinier, colourful versions assembled with a ganache or butter cream.
There are obviously more varieties and in the North of France one finds the macaron
from Amiens which comes as a flat disk and wrapped in golden
foil. They are denser in texture, crusty but very moist inside.

Macarons are made in more flavours than one cares to note. At
Flannerie Bonaparte, in addition to the more conventional
flavours, we also have a collection of flowers: geraniums,
voilet, roses, tulips and cactus flower. We also make a
croquembouche with macarons (see picture).

People who visit Zurich regularly will know the Luxemburgerli
(or in French: Luxembourger) is the name of a type of biscuit
that was made famous by Confiserie Sprüngli in Zurich,
Switzerland. Similar to the small French macaron, they consist
of a top and bottom with a rich cream filling in the center. Each ‘sprüngli’ is about
two-and-a-half centimetres in diameter.

Luxemburgerli were invented by the confectioner Camille Studer who brought the
recipe to Zurich after originally creating them in a French sugar bakery in 1967. There,
the recipe was refined for a confectionery contest. The name Luxemburgerli derives
from the nickname which a colleague gave to Studer whose family originated in
Luxembourg. The original name, Baiser de Mousse (foam kiss in French), not being felt
appropriate for the new creation, was changed to Gebäck des Luxemburgers ("the
Luxemburger's cookie") which became, in Swiss-German dialect, Luxemburgerli ("little
Luxembourger"). Interestingly, Luxemburgerli are not especially popular in Luxembourg
itself!




                                           9
A la Carte Bonaparte                                     March, April & May ‘07




One fine day in Zurich, towards the end of the
1950s, a young confectioner from Luxembourg
started producing the speciality of his mentor
at home. Initially, the product was anything
but a top seller. The macaroons were sold, but
without much enthusiasm. More out of
embarrassment than anything else, the
delicate      biscuits      were      christened
'Luxemburgerli' after their place of origin, a
name, incidentally, that is not used in
Luxembourg itself. Because it takes time and
effort to make them by hand in a process
requiring a very stable touch, the new
speciality was by no means pushed, and when the young confectioner returned home it
proved very difficult to find a worthy successor.

Over the years, however, the citizens of Zurich slowly acquired a taste for
Luxemburgerli. Demand grew steadily and Sprüngli now produces an average of 650 kg
every day, making them the most popular and best-known product in the Sprüngli
range. Their fame has since spread far beyond Zurich and even Switzerland.

Are macarons and Luxemburgerli the same thing? We will buy some in Geneve during
the 2nd week in May and we will report back in our next newsletter.

                                   Célébrité

Very often in discussion we are asked questions about the
‘classical training’ and the ‘philosophies’ where confectionery
should be going and what are the real trends in fine pâtisserie.
What better way to create a platform where we feature
established pâtissiers around the world to give their opinion on
these questions:




            Forian Bellanger – Pastry Chef of Fauchon in New York



                                        10
A la Carte Bonaparte                                          March, April & May ‘07




Philosophy on Pastry:

Make customers happy. Make cakes as light as possible, not too sweet. I became a
Pastry Chef because I always have been in love with sweets (I could live on sweets
only!) and for me a great cake is a cake that I want to eat another slice of. As a chef, I
also feel that it is important to help pastry students by giving them knowledge and
also transmitting the love of this profession. Working in pastry brings so much
satisfaction and pride. I always encourage young chefs to keep going. It is a tough job,
long hours etc., but it is so rewarding. It is more than a job; it is a passion.

Formerly of:

Le Barnardin, La Maison du Chocolat, Fauchon Paris and Fauchon Qatar.

Training:

Ecole de Paris des Metiers de la Table. I graduated in pastry after 2 years, trained
there for another year specialising in chocolate and ice creams.

Awards:

One of the “10 Best Pastry Chefs in America’ by the Pastry Art and Design (2 years in a
row – 2003 and 2004). Nominated Best Pastry Chef by James Beard Foundation (2000
and 2001).

Essential Tools:

Hand tool: A small stainless steep spatula with a wood handle given to me by my
parents when I was 16 years old and decided to train in pastry. I use this spatula all
the time; it is always close to me and it is the only hand tool I am very protective of. I
never lend it to anyone. It followed me everywhere for 20 years. Once I forgot it
during an event in California. When I got back to New York, I became so nervous, I
called the hotel 20 times to make sure they find it, and insisted they Fedex it back to
me.

Favourite Ingredients:

Chocolate – it is fun and versatile. It can be used in any recipe and 99% of consumers
love it. We take chocolate for granted, but when you think of it, it is just amazing
how a bean discovered 500 years ago became such a great product.


Top Tips for Dessert Success:

   1) A great combination of flavours (2 to 3 flavours maximum in one dessert;
      otherwise it gets confusing)
   2) Light and creamy (work on the texture and make sure the entire dessert is not
      too sweet)
   3) Have something crunchy in your dessert
   4) Decoration has to be edible and has to be part of the dessert (If you think the
      decoration on your dessert is not part of the dessert in taste and texture, it
      means it is useless).



                                           11
A la Carte Bonaparte                                        March, April & May ‘07


Mentor and Pastry:

My mentor who became my friend and played a big role in my professional life is
Pierre Hermé. I have a great respect for him as a professional and also as a person. He
helped pastry to become recognized as an art all over the world. He is like part of my
family.

Emerging Trends in Pastry Arts:

I see a big trend emerging especially for pastry boutiques. Cakes are getting
modernized. The pastry chefs in restaurants are starting to look at desserts like cooks
look at a dish, meaning they are cooking fruits à la minute, and using ultra-fresh
products. We are far away from the crème brulée done 20 years ago in restaurants.
Pastry retail stores will eventually become that way also. You see pastry shops
emerging all over the city, and the cakes sold in these retail stores are getting much
more interesting.

                                  Horticulture
                             By Bartholomew Bacchus


                         1500 square metres of wine!


  Why Rockefeller and Rothchild came
            to Monaco…
                                               The harbour and Place du Casino are
Deep under the foundations of                  probably the most well known features of
                                               Monaco. On this square you will find
Hôtel de Paris, created in the                 Hermitage, Hôtel de Paris (which hosts
rock of Monte Carlo, is one of                 restaurant Louis XIV – featured in a
                                               previous newsletter), Café de Paris and
the biggest wine cellars in the                of course the casino.
world. No entry for tourists and
                                               Hôtel de Paris, which was built in 1864 by
out of sight of the hotel guests,              prince Charles III, offers accommodation
                                               ranging between €465 and €8700
400 000 very valuable and                      (depending on the season and room) and
                                               boast an impressive guest list with names
                                               the likes of Rockefeller, Rothchild,
carefully selected wine bottles                Vanderbilt, King Gustav V of Sweden, the
                                               Windsors and many more.
are awaiting to be enjoyed..




                                          12
A la Carte Bonaparte                                            March, April & May ‘07




The most impressive thing about this               1990 (€ 1,200), a Roederer Cristal 1995
hotel is its wine cellar. Ten years after          (€450) or a Bolliger tradition ‘RD’ 1973 (€
the hotel was built, Marie Blanc                   517).
instructed that a wine cellar should be
created in the rock under the hotel.               Close to the entrance is a metal gate
When she died in 1881, the wine cellar             leading to the ‘Musée Marie Blanc’ which
with its contents was sold for a mere              is not bigger than 3m x 4m where the
€76,000. Today the cellar has a surface            most precious wines are kept, for
area of 1,500 m2 and contains about                instance a 1850 Margaux (Château Bel Air
400,000 bottles of wine (interesting fact:         – Marguis d’Aligre), a Château Gruaud
although smaller in size, the wine cellar          Larose from 1865, some Cognac from
of restaurant La Tour D’Argent in Paris            1800. An interesting aspect of these
has 500,000 bottles) and other exclusive
alcoholic beverages. Only three people
have a key to the heavy iron gate: Noël
Bajor (sommerlier of the Louis XV),
Gennaro Iorio and the manager of the
Hotel. It also goes without saying that
the security is vital, as some of the wines
in this cellar are almost priceless.

With an average temperature of between
11 and 13°C and a constant humidity of
75% it is ideal as a wine cellar. The
cheapest wine in the cellar is a Côte de           wines are that during World War II, they
Provence for €56 and the most expensive            were transferred to one of the deepest
a Pétrus Pomerol from 1945 for €13.368!            areas of the cellar, and thousands of
On the question of how many of these               empty bottles were placed in front of
wines gets sold and by whom, stays a bit           them creating the image that nothing of
of secret. The only answer one gets is             value was among them. For wine lovers
that these wines are either ordered by             and historians this piece of ‘heaven’ is
wine specialists or rich people who want           sacred and most of us will never be able
to impress their guests. Between 90,000            to cast an eye on any of these wines, and
and 100,000 bottles of champagne are               with that knowledge I take another sip of
lying here, such as Krug Collection                my glass of Chateau Migraine of 2006..
(€2,423), Moët & Chandon Dom Perignon
Rosé from


                                              13
A la Carte Bonaparte                                      March, April & May ‘07


                             La Recette du Mois

                          The Cruise-Ship Dessert




We call this the Cruise Ship dessert as during a cruise on the Caribbean, we attend a
cooking class and this dessert was demonstrated. It is probably one of the easiest
desserts you can make and also foolproof.

Ingredients:

The combination of the 3 ingredients must be 1/3 of each, whatever amount you want
to make. If you need enough for 6 people, measure the ramekin’s volume e.g. 100ml x
6 = 600ml. You will then need 200ml of each ingredient

200ml Greek Full Cream Yogurt
200ml Condensed Milk
200ml Double Cream

Mix the ingredients in a bowl together and pour into the ramekins. Fill a baking tray
half with water and place in an oven at 180°C. Place the ramekins on the tray in the
water and bake for 20min. Take them out of the oven and let it cool before you
decorate with sugar (blow-torch to caramelize), star anise and cinnamon sticks.




                                         14
A la Carte Bonaparte                              March, April & May ‘07


                        Dans la Cuisine




                                  DEEP
                                  FRYING
                                  BELOW
                                  ZERO °

  Once again we introduce a new technique that is being used
  more often in the pâtisserie, called Cryo-Frying. Deep-frying at
– 196°C. Of all the techniques we have introduced, this process is
 one of the most creative – although potentially
                                very dangerous.
                            When frying with liquid
                            nitrogen at -196°C, one has
                            to take certain precautions
                            such as wearing protective
                            glasses and clothing, as it
                            does not only cause a slight
                            burn but one could loose a
                            finger or more. It requires
                            concentration and when
                            dipping something, there is
                            a specific waiting time
                            before it is eatable as it
                            could cause severe burning.

                            When you dip something in
                            the liquid nitrogen, it will
                            freeze               almost
                            instantaneously.        This
                            provides a way of creating


                                15
A la Carte Bonaparte                                         March, April & May ‘07

interesting structures, textures and colours.

As an example we take a small ball of sorbet and ‘fry’ it for 60 seconds. In the meantime
we prepare two bowls with coconut milk and passion-fruit purée, which is a beautiful bright
yellow colour. When the ice cream ball comes out of the nitrogen, drop it in the passion
fruit puree and cover. Fry it again for approximately 60 seconds, after which it is dropped in
the coconut milk and back into the nitrogen. Do this a few times and let it ‘rest’ for 3 hours
in the freezer. You end up with a very interesting looking ball of ice cream which, when cut
through the middle will enhance the looks of your plating design.



  Make your own chocolate décor
             at home
Be creative and try making your own décor at home for desserts
or cakes.

                                 For this exercise you need couverture chocolate (in
                                 this case dark chocolate with 55% + cacao), a piping
                                 bag, a metal container and pure alcohol (92%). Put the
                                 alcohol in the freezer to cool down to -18°C. Melt the
                                 chocolate and pour into a piping bag with a small
                                 nozzle. Pipe the melted chocolate into the cold
                                 alcohol and be sure to make quick round movements
                                 with your hand.

                                 Take the chocolate out and let the alcohol evaporate.
                                 You can keep it in a container with a bag of silicon to
                                 keep the moisture out.




                                           16
A la Carte Bonaparte                                          March, April & May ‘07


                        Spécials and New Creations

                                                  When we were approached by a
                                                  magazine to do a Photo-shoot with
                                                                ‘Marie-Antionette-style’
                                                  confectionery, which is very much
                                                  our style, we then made the decision
                                                  to bring back the Wedding Cakes of
                                                  the late 1800’s as designed and
                                                  created by Marie Antione Carême.
                                                  We love the decadence and opulent
                                                  beauty of these wedding cakes.

                                                  These wedding cakes will incorporate
                                                  elaborate    chocolate    -,   sugar
                                                  creations and décor in the true style
                                                  as they were made in the time of
                                                  Napoleon.

                                                  We believe it is time to introduce
                                                  something different and special and
                                                  in line with our motto of everything,
                                                  including the decorations, should be
                                                  eatable and that it should be as
                                                  delicious as it looks.




One of the most exciting pieces of confectionery that was
developed during April must be the Gâteau au Marron – a
chestnut cake. Without a doubt, it is one of the finest
gateaux we have ever tasted – ‘goose bumps stuff’ as one
of my confectioners described it aptly. Try it yourself and
give us feed-back. It will be included on our website under
‘Emperor Collection’.

                                      When we introduced
                                      the Gateau Basque,
                                      which is from the
                                      Basque region of
                                      France, we were
                                      asked whether we
                                      could also do some
                                      of the other regional
                                      specialities, such as
                                      the       Bois     de
                                      Boulogne. It should
                                      be popular in South Africa too as it is a rich cake
                                      covered with two types of chocolate and
                                      hazelnuts. We will extend the list of regional
                                      specialities to bring you the best of France and
                                      Belgium.




                                          17
             A la Carte Bonaparte                                                  March, April & May ‘07

             Every Saturday we also introduce a few new products at
             the Neighbour Goods Market on Albert Road and we test
             the feedback of customers. François Dolci is also making
             delicious crêpes (original Le Notre recipe..) with decadent
             fillings such as vanilla cream, roasted banana with nutella
             and a splash of Amarula. It has become very popular!

             To accompany either a warm waffle or crêpe, we are
             making hot chocolate with Belgian couverture chocolate.
             What a way to start a Saturday morning!



                                 Culinary Crossword
             Our culinary crossword will definitely test your culinary knowledge, and should you be
             able to complete it, either send or fax us your answer and you could win R 250.00
             worth of confectionery of your choice!

             Crossword # 3


                  1                                             2                                      3
     4                       5
         1                                                 2

                                                   6                                    7
                             3                         4
                                                                                                                8
                                     9                                        10                  11

                  5
                                                                         6
                                                                                        12
              7
                                                   8
13                     14                                                15
              9                                                     10

                                                                                                           16
11                                                                  12


                  13                     14                                                  15
                                                                    17        18
                                              19
                  16
17
                  18                                                                    19


     20                                                                            21




                                                               18
A la Carte Bonaparte                                      March, April & May ‘07

Down:


   1. Middle-Eastern delicacy mainly           Across:
       made of chick-peas
   2. The French version of the                   1. Staple of Morocco
       Sprüngli                                   2. Square ‘croissant’ baked with
   3. The 2nd biggest restaurant                      chocolate
       guide in France                            3. Tony Roma’s in the USA is
   4. Pancake                                         famous for this
   5. Famous chef and patissier born              4. Whipped cream
       June 8, 1784 and was known                 5. City in France famous for its
       best for his piece montée’s                    good-tasting chickens
   6. Shop that makes sweets and                  6. Herring is mainly fished in the
       candy                                          North …
   7. What makes a margarita                      7. Main ingredient of the Gateau
       cocktail good                                  au Marron from Flannerie
   8. Vital ingredient in Thai curry                  Bonaparte
   9. 19th century used instead of                8. If it sinks in water, it is not
       gelatine                                       fresh
   10. Spanish dish made of rice                  9. Just voted as the #1 number
   11. ‘Thousand leaves’, also known                  restaurant in the world for
       as a Napoleon pastry                           2007
   12. A pyramid of profiteroles for              10. Purple fruit, with white flesh
       special occasions                              and black pips
   13. A German snack-bar                         11. Bavarian Cream
   14. City in which the 1st Patisserie           12. Delicious with white cheese
       boutique shop opened in 2005               13. Original form of chocolate
   15. Capital      with     beautiful            14. Salmon …
       cathedral and capital of the               15. Kind of wild duck
       French champagne region                    16. Clear soup sometimes serves
   16. Water-based ice cream                          with a quail egg
   17. Maximum amount of starts to                17. Sri Lanka is famous for growing
       receive on the Michelin                        it
       restaurant rating                          18. Restaurant in Paris boasting to
   18. Kind of fish                                   have the most bottles of wine
   19. French wine region                             in its cellar
                                                  19. Pastry to make profiteroles
                                                  20. La Messe des Truffles festival
                                                      takes place here 2nd half of
                                                      January every year
                                                  21. 3 L champagne bottle


E-mail your answer to info@bonaparte.co.za or fax to 021-552 8382




                                          19
A la Carte Bonaparte                                                                                           March, April & May ‘07

We have a winner for the previous crossword:

Mr Marc Wüst of Cape Town - Congratulations Marc!




Answer to Crossword # 2




                                                         Worth Mentioning

The World Food Market will take place in Paris on the 6th and
7th of June 2007 in the Paris Expo (at the pereferique exit
Porte de Versailles), which is one of the major shows in
Europe every year with more than 35 countries participating
and definitely worth visiting.

Perhaps already put the following in your diary as the
following are some of the finest patisserie exhibitions in the
world:

       1. Europain in Paris between 29 March and 2 April 2008
       2. Bakkerij Dagen in Amsterdam 2 – 4 March 2008

We are contemplating to offer once again pâtisserie courses
in July/Aug 2007 again, and would like to get an idea of how
many people would be interested. We would be doing specialised breads, baking and
chocolaterie again and even sugar work should there be enough interest. If you are
interested, send us an e-mail to info@bonaparte.co.za (Re: pastry courses). Please note we
can take a maximum of 8 students at a time.
“Flannerie Bonaparte aspires to be the finest Pâtisserie and Confiserie in Cape Town; providing our distinguished and select customers with decadent confectionery
and chocolates, something we care enough about to make them individually by hand, accompanied by a smile and a 5-star customer service”



                                                          Tel: 021-5528381
                                                         Fax: 021-5528382
                                                     Email: info@bonaparte.co.za
                                                        www.bonaparte.co.za




                                                                              20

								
To top