2004 Artemisia Pinot Noir 2004 Chardonnay 2004 Pinot Noir 2003 by keara



                                                            2004 Artemisia Pinot Noir
                                                            2004 Chardonnay
                                                            2004 Pinot Noir
                                                            2003 Cuvee Emilie Pinot Noir

Tarrington’s exiting new releases have arrived. The wines are made in minuscule
quantities – from 40-250 dozen per wine - and should not last long. Tarrington has a tiny
2.5 ha vineyard behind a very small, but effective winery. After just a quick look at the
vineyard one soon realizes that it's treated like a prize garden, one step into the winery
and one is overtaken by a sense of the pervasive obsession with quality and attention to
minute details. The vigneronnes' love and respect for the terroir and the resulting wines is
clearly evident.

        Tamara Irish is the pendant vigneronne with a burning desire to create and nurture
        the best wines her south-western Victorian site can produce.

        Some pertinent facts;
          • Up to 8200 vines / ha with a mixture of clones.
          • The vineyard is cultivated along the lines of "biological-social-cultural
             dynamics" and as such, tractors are never used, neither are systemic
             sprays or other chemicals.
          • A variety of trees and shrubs [including oak, birch, cypress, olive and
             native Australian varieties] have been planted to promote a diverse insect
             and bird population.
          • Yields are deliberately restricted to less than one tonne per acre!
          • Throughout winter a flock of merino sheep grazes the vineyard to assist
             with management of grasses and to bring a little natural fertilizer.
          • Ploughing has never been undertaken.
          • Production is miniscule with the Pinot Noir being the biggest volume
             at only 150-250 in any given year. Other annual production figures
             are - Chardonnay 2004/80 doz. Cuvée Emilie Pinot Noir 2003/40 doz.
             Artemisia Pinot Noir 2004/40 doz.
          • When asked how a "make" of only 40 dozen occurs from 2 barrels [when
             other winemakers achieve closer to 50 dozen from the same sized barrels]
             Tamara says that she leaves a lot more lees and hazy wine behind and is
             very fussy about the "cut-off" point when racking to bottle. "The flock of
             geese love the lees!"
          • The wines are not filtered, bottled on the property and treated with
             professional thoughtfulness from start to finish.
The Wines
2004 Chardonnay $56 ea $53 ea in dozen
The Tarrington Chardonnay may be Australia’s most unique model of this variety and arguably
the best example of a wine that brings us close to understanding the link between terroir and
wine. Aromatically reticent and wound like a tight coil it is the antithesis of the bulging,
voluptuous Chardonnays for which Australia is famous. Shunning the influence of any barrel
maturation, Tamara believes her vineyard produces sufficiently intense fruit with pure, minerally
dimensions in it’s expression as to require no oak input, with the result that there is a direct
transport of vineyard to bottle and onward to glass. The grapes were picked at a very low pH of
2.95 (a prerequisite for natural balance and ageability) and 13º Baume then lightly crushed and
pressed without delay, the juice naturally settling overnight before transfer to stainless steel
fermenters. Unrestrained by cooling apparatus, partial indigenous yeast fermentation generally in
the region of twenty days occurs. The wine was racked from gross lees to more stainless steel for
another eight months, dining on the fine lees prior to bottling.

The parallels with the Chardonnays of Chablis and Champagne are really
quite striking, though not only in terms of philosophy and production.
Here the fruit, unadulterated by new oak, malolactic and lees stirring,
offers a direct expression of the vineyard character, a character that
makes you wonder if Tarrington have purchased a small block of
Kimmeridgian soil from Chablis and dropped in the heart of southwest
Victoria! Piercing aromas of moss and hay flecked with droplets of white
honey give you a firm idea of what’s to come. Structurally it is
magnificently austere with a flavour spectrum covering myriad notes of
wet pebbles, chalk, small green (ripe) apples, pear and some yeasty
depths. The fruits acid cuts across the palate, with rapier like freshness: Albrecht Dürer, Melancholia (1514)
they are balanced, bracingly snappy and not at all like the fruity, citric  chosen to adorn Tamara’s personal
                                                                            label, DE IREYS
acids more commonly found in Australian chardonnay’s. Randall found
the wine had a conspicuous parallel with Vin clair - the base wine for Champagne, after the
primary alcoholic fermentation and malolactic fermentation but before the second fermentation -
though he stressed with more richness and complexity.

I tasted the Tarrington alongside the prestigious Chablis ‘Le Clos’ Grand Cru from Raveneau
(1999, RRP $120) Both these fantastic wines appear cut from the same cloth, though the design is
subtlety different – is it possible that the 8th Chablis Grand Cru lies in the heart of Southwest
Victoria? Let’s not get ahead of ourselves. Just yet.

2004 Artemisia Pinot Noir $39 ea $36 ea in dozen
Tarringtons inaugural release of the Artemisia Pinot Noir is made mainly from fruit sourced 5
kilometers away from the Tarrington block. The 10-year-old Pinot Noir vines are under the strict
control of Tarrington Vineyards, with similar viticulture techniques employed and the wine is
buttressed by the inclusion of some 20% of domaine fruit. Only two barrels of the Artemisia were
produced in 2004. We would hope as the vineyard becomes more generous that, given favorable
vintage conditions, more may become available next year. The Artemisia allies power, spice and
depth of fruit along with the hallmarks of Tarringtons Pinot Noirs: purity of fruit, richness,
classical structure and length of flavour. Ferment is in tank using indigenous yeasts and then the
wine is transferred to new François Frères barrel and finally matured in older French oak for 12
months. The spice and plump fruit characters gives a give this young pinot a Vosne-like
plushness (well, the 2003 Vosnes anyway) and it will offer great and dignified drinking enjoyment
for the short to mid-term. Bottled without fining or filtration.

2004 Pinot Noir $49 ea $46 ea in dozen

The 2004 may well be the best Tarrington Estate Pinot we have tasted to date. Given the sublime,
exotic qualities of the 2002 and the willowy, textured charms of the 2003, this is really saying
something. So what makes Tarrington Pinot so special? Firstly, there are the unmistakable traces
of the methods used in the vineyard –high density planting of nine different clones, up to 8,000
vine/hectare, no irrigation and pruning/training systems emulating the classic Burgundian
paradigm including the use of a low fruiting wire (a backbreaking 60cm above the ground). Yields
are deliberately restricted to less than one tonne per acre and the hand-picked fruit is crushed
and destemmed with between 5 and 15 per cent whole bunches before undergoing a long partial
wild yeast fermentation. All plunging is done by hand and the wine is run off into small oak
barrels sourced from a variety of top French coopers. Malolactic fermentation occurs naturally
when the temperatures rise, usually in the spring following the previous summer’s vintage.

                                                                       This 2004 Pinot is especially ripe with round
                                                                       and supple, medium-bodied flavors redolent of
                                                                       crushed raspberry, violet and roast espresso
                                                                       bean,    that    are   both     mouth-coating,
                                                                       sumptuous. While nuance’s of smoke, meat
                                                                       and spice on the nose recall the 2002, this
                                                                       vintage is darker, firmer and more Cote du
                                                                       Nuits-like than the fragrant 2003. The wine
                                                                       possesses remarkable purity of flavour and
                                                                       the most enchanting of Pinot Noirs qualities:
                                                                       power and concentration without the excessive
                                                                       weight. A long and determined finish, a
                                                                       characteristic of Tarrington, concludes what
                                                                       promises to be a wine that will mature happily
                                                                       for 6-10 years and possibly longer.

                                                                      Picture: The Tarrington 2004 green harvest
                                                                      from some younger Pinot Noir vines. The cut
                                                                      fruit is left to compost

2003 Cuvee Emilie Pinot Noir $69 ea $66 ea in dozen
The Cuvée Emilie Pinot Noir is a vineyard selection cropped from a particularly tightly spaced
section of the vineyard where Tamara has +8 different pinot clones planted∗. It is afforded an
additional year in 228L Allier ‘piece’ (a shorter, rounder barrel particular to Burgundy) , a tightly
grained oak from central France which brings only moderate oak and more spice-like aromatics. A
miserly two barrels of the Cuvee Emilie is made each vintage, leaving only around 40 dozen
bottles for Australia, with a tiny amount going to the UK. This wine is defined by a purity of line,
equilibrium, harmony and palate length that readily appreciates, if not requires, extended
cellaring with an emphasis on the elegance, vigor and individuality. Unfortunately the Cuvee Emilie
is restricted to 2 bottles per customer.

    For the anorak: MV6,D2V12, D2V6, GEISENHEIM18NX, OBERLIN, H20B,H140A, G8V7, G5V15, G8V3
   Still in its infancy, the aromas are redolent of deep briary and dark cherry fruits, plum skin and
   freshly crushed spices, with cinnamon particularly notable. The palate is beautifully balanced,
   following a two year stretch in the French oak, and saturates the palate with waves of
   authentically restrained, composed and compelling flavours and nuance.

   The finish is confident with a closing flourish of flavour wrapped up in a supple cloak of finely
   grained, statuesque tannin that promises to bring thoughtful satisfaction and generous
   conversation to those who can wait!
                                                                       - Nic Moghabghab, Randall’s

        Tarrington Chardonnay 2004: Before I say anything about this wine, if you’re thinking of buying it, please
        do not open it for at least four years. You’re almost wasting your money if you do – your only chance of
        salvation, if you can’t resist, is to decant it for at least six hours. For a chardonnay. The reason is that it’s
        crunchingly acidic, with a huge swerve of crushed lemons bursting through the palate. The drama of it is
        impressive. But it has more: pears, nectarines, almonds and figs, all – except perhaps for the pears –
        dashing here and there in the background. All these sensation remain in the mouth long after you’ve
        swallowed. It is an amazingly pure wine, concentrated, lengthy wine, in need of a good deal of time. Drink:
        2009-2017. 96 points.

        Tarrington Cuvee Emilie Pinot Noir 2003 : I could say many things about this wine but at the end of the
        day I can sum it all up quite quickly: this is probably the best young Australian pinot noir I have come
        across. It is dramatically fragrant, but it is not confected. It is long, and juicy, and tannic, but it is perfectly
        balanced. It has cedar and autumn leaves, toast and black cherry, but it is neither fruity, nor oak-
        dominated. It is what it is. It is the meeting of Tarrington earth and pinot noir grapes. It is outstanding. It is
        at least Premier Cru standard and upper echelon premier cru at that. Drink: 2009-2016.95 points.

        Tarrington Pinot Noir 2004 : It’s tempting to list the flavour profile here, because there’s certainly a bit
        going on: mulch, boysenberries, violets and sap, all built on an anvil of tannin-etched black cherry. These
        Tarrington wines though aren’t really parrying at the fruit show, so it’s best to go this way: this is balanced
        and powerful and sure, is full of dry wit and wet acidity, and I have no doubt that it will mature well. Drink:
        2009-2014. 94 points.

        Artemisia Pinot Noir 2004: Made as an entry-level Tarrington – not made with Tarrington’s estate fruit,
        but with grapes grown specifically for Tarrington’s use –and a perfect insight into why the higher wines are
        so good; this would be many producer’s top wine. Complex, light, varietal, lashed with sour cherry andsap,
        and then dry and reaching on the finish. Drink:2006-2010. 89 points.

                                                                       Campbell Mattinson, September 2005

The emphasis here is on letting the fruit do                        “Wine growers don’t spend their winters pruning
   the talking, to the extent that you come                         their vines with reddened hands or get up in the
away with the impression that the vines are                         small hours for reasons of social prestige. They
      acting as conduit to express the true                            do it to express a passion for a place and
    potential of this small, unique patch of                          perfectionism felt by few of the workers who
                 Australian soil. -Randall’s                          make the stuff that ends up on supermarket
                                                                     shelves” The Wild Bunch, Patrick Matthews
                                                                                                   (Mixed)        No.         $
                                                                                    Price         Dz. Price      Bottles   Total
2004 Tarrington Order Form
2004 Artemisia Pinot Noir                                                             39             36
2004 Estate Pinot Noir                                                                49             46

2004 Estate Chardonnay                                                                56             53

2003 Cuvee Emilie Pinot Noir (max 2 bottles per customer)                             69             66
 Delivery $8 per case to Melbourne, Geelong, Sydney, Adelaide and
 Brisbane. Rates to other locations available on request.
 Insurance at $2.00 per $100 is strongly recommended to cover loss or              Freight
 breakage whilst in transit until the goods reach your door. Goods left at
 front doors or otherwise unattended are not covered.                              TOTAL

Delivery Address
Delivery Instructions (eg. If Not Home)                                            Insurance               Yes     No

Phone No                                                                                     Signature

Credit Card Details (please circle) Visa         Mastercard         Bankcard          Amex Diners

      ____/____/____/____                                                                    Expiry Date         __/__

        Geelong Fax (03) 5222 6348                  Albert Park Fax (03) 9686 4188

          including Raveneau 1er and Grand Cru, Roumier Chambolle-Musigny and Engel Vosne Romanee.
         Saturday 29 October at Eis restaurant (next door to Randall's), two seated sessions - 1:30pm &
                                                 3:30pm, $25.
      On the 29 of October we are pleased to host a special wine event at Eis restaurant. Tarrington vingeronne Tamara Irish
      will take you through the newly released chardonnay and three pinot noir wines from south-west Victoria. These wines
      are extremely rare, the largest production being around 200 cases with barely 40 in some instances.

      The Tarrington wines must be tasted to be understood - they are unique and their inspirations are unashamedly French.
      To further understand these wines you will also taste some examples of the inspiration behind them. Raveneau is almost
      undoubtedly the finest maker of Chablis - and hence some of the most renowned chardonnay wines on earth. The
      Randalls staff have on more than one occasion thought Tarrington Chardonnay to be 1er Cru Chablis in blind tastings.
      Premier and Grand Cru Raveneau will be on tasting at this event. Burgundy is pinot noir's motherland and to grasp
      the Tarrington pinot noir philosophy you will also taste some Burgundy of like qualities. The 2001 Roumier Chambolle
      Musigny and 2003 Engel Vosne Romanee will also be on tasting.

                    RSVP on 96864122 or by email: albertpark@randalls.net.au
   Appendix: Portrait of a winemaker!
   Tamara is an intelligent vigneronne yet she has an insane desire to learn all she can about her vines and also
   her wines. To give you an idea of her amazingly fastidious, caring, and relentlessly thoughtful approach, when
   I asked Tamara about her approach, she said,

           "I am still learning their [the wines'] languages and the languages of the seasons, listening as hard as I can. But in the
          quiet of a still and starlit night as I talk with the casks I'm often not yet able to hear them properly, even though the world
          appears clear and calm. They test me dearly and I am scared to let them down. This is why when I [occasionally] hear
          comments about them that are less than glowing I feel I have let them down rather than the other way around."

   Then I asked her about her inspiration and this was reply.
          "Pinot Noir. The thing about inspirational Chambolle-Musigny for me is about its purity and grace. These terms are often
          used incorrectly (in my humble opinion) here in Australia, that is, they are confused with direct (read simple) fruit and
          lightness. It's like confusing a boy with a man. How obviously incorrect is that?

                                     The wine should make us think "oh #!@* this is gorgeous ....... but shit, I can't source &/or
“…A wine must not only               afford enough of it."

 taste good, but also be             So it is a wine we find consumes us (not the other way round) leaving us aching for more in a
   sincere, reflecting the           very adult kind of way. Rich but kinda wild like Maria Callas and definitely NOT like Jacquie
                                     Onassis. With just a hint of bouquet that is not perfectly hygienic but still clean like a strong and
subtleties of its place of           confident woman after a days work in the garden.
  origin…”Nicolas Joly,
     Coulee du Serrant                 Musigny is a vineyard to stand in and think you are the luckiest girl in the world as you touch
                                       the soil. Look down the slope over to the right and see the Clos Vougeot and you may get a
                                       fright because in the quiet of it all you are sure you heard the songs of the ancients calling you.
          After that, when home again I rushed to my own vines with the little stone I carried all the way in my pocket, regularly
          checking it was still there, and then introducing it to my own stones. Like an elder greeting a neophyte.

          Who to choose. Will think more. But the grower is important in their translation of the gift of terroir. Human and therefore
          imperfect but the better for it. Their greatest competition is the one from within for this grower. Not always predictable but
          inevitably a gesture of the year in that place.

          A full wine without being corpulent. Rich without flabby excess. Powerful but not muscular. Strong as hand made lace yet
          transparent. Ethereal but not ephemeral.

          Chardonnay? Now here is a serious girl indeed. Steely, taut and self opinionated. Minerals, wet stones and slatey pears
          from very old unwatered trees. Selfish and a bit incomprehensible.

          And later as a woman, hints of creamy fromage, whisps of truffly yet clean earth. A little almond, old wedding cake icing -
          that smooth slippery bit between the fruit cake and the firmer portion of the icing. Never hard or harsh. Natural acidity
          that pierces with a cut so quick that you feel no pain.

          So, the place is Chablis. Maybe Clos if you're lucky. Luckier still it's Grenouille. I had a Michel Loup when there. Pure,
          full of the sky in summer in the morning when there was the risk of frost, drawn with a fountain pen so its classic yet
          restrained. Perhaps Dauvissat or Ravenau.

          Takes NO prisoners and as such says very politely: ".......well.........if you are tooooooo stupid to understand why oak/MLF/
          battonage is not a requirement...in fact a contradiction...you should just #!@* off and leave me to my business,

   On that forceful and insightful note, Cheers, Randall

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