WHITE WINE SHOOTOUT - N.Z. vs AUSTRALIA Monday 14 April 2008 By Raymond Chan The long-held parochial presumption is that New Zealand makes better white wines than Australia, while we admit that Australia is better at making red wines than New Zealand. The latter assertion is now needs to be qualified, as New Zealand s cooler climate is generally more suitable for Pinot Noir, though with the other red varieties, ripeness is all, and Australia is in a far better position to deliver heat than New Zealand. It is on this latter principle that the rest of the world (apart from New Zealand!) sees Australia as the country that makes the better wines, even with white varieties. Wine must be made from properly ripened fruit in the first instance, and in New Zealand s marginal climate, failure is perceived to be more likely. Of course, nowadays, concessions are made on behalf of New Zealand with the aromatic varieties, which benefit hugely from long, slow ripening. At a recent tasting, the idea that a comparison between the two countries with white wine be conducted a shootout! Hence this event. Here, we pitched three examples of three different varietals from New Zealand against a selection from Australia. The varieties Viognier, Riesling and Chardonnay are reasonably equally regarded in each country. We kept the overall pricing similar, and vintages were as similar as reasonably could be. Arguably the only factor not able to be compensated for would be a cellar palate of the tasters, us Kiwis having a preference for our own wines! The tasting consisted of three flights, of the varietals. Within each flight were three pairs of wines, each pairing consisted of one wine from each country. Apart from that information, the wines were served blind. At the end of each flight, tasters were asked which wine of the flight of six was their preference and their thoughts as to the origin of each wine. From the preferences, the best performing country could be determined. Following are my notes on the wines in the order served, and the results to the preferences and questions of origin. Flight One: Viognier N.Z. plantings approx. 120 ha, with around a decade of production, mostly in the last 3-4 years. The better wines from Gisborne and Hawke s Bay. Aus. 800 ha, with the oldest vines now over 20 y.o. Yalumba has the most experience with the variety, but excellent releases from many and varied regions, some at remarkably value prices. The impression is that N.Z. achieves greater purity and aromatic character, whilst the Australian examples possess the weight and texture desired in fullyripened fruit. This flight won by N.Z. with 14 first votes, Australian wines having 2 first votes. Yalumba Eden Valley Viognier 2006 (Aus.) 14.5% alc, 1.9 g/l rs, some of the fruit from the Vaughan vineyard, planted 1980. 60% BF, 9 months in oak. Pale straw yellow, youthful in appearance. Very fresh and pure nose, attractive aromatics of apricots, limes and wild ginger. Dry, fresh, pure and lifted fruit flavours of blossom and citrus zest. This has power and warmth from the alcohol, but excellent crisp definition with good acidity. The second preferred wine of the flight, and more thought this to be a N.Z. wine. My score 18.5+/20 Church Road Reserve Hawke s Bay Viognier 2006 (N.Z.) 14.5% alc, WBP, 70% BF in older oak, 30% S/S with native yeasts and MLF. BF component in oak 3 months. Straw yellow colour with some golden hues. Softer, riper nose with breadth and more complex aromas, apricots and tropical fruit with oak lift, quite full. Soft and full on palate, this has richness and breadth. The oak component is a little prominent and the fruit flavours less obvious. Lovely richness and quite even across the palate. Warmer in expression. The fourth preferred of the flight, and thought to be Australian by more people. My score 18.0+/20
Villa Maria Single Vineyard Omahu Gravels Viognier 2006 (N.Z.) 14.5% alc, 2.99 g/l rs, fruit from the Omahu Gravels vineyard, Gimblett Gravels. Native yeasts, BF in older oak, 9 months in barrel, 40% MLF. Pale straw yellow with some golden hues. Very fresh and pure on the nose, good depth with intensity and a steely cut, apricots and limes in expression. This has richness and purity of apricotty fruit, quite classic in flavour. The textures are very fine and the alcohol is harmonious. Lovely freshness adding to the balance, this has a very long finish. Easily the most preferred wine of the flight and thought to be a N.Z. wine by more tasters. My score 19.0+/20 Heggies Eden Valley Viognier 2005 (Aus.) 14.5% alc, from the Heggies vineyard, wild yeasts, 9 months in oak. Very youthful, pale straw yellow colour. A little delicate on the nose, gentle and soft , the pure apricotty fruit unfolds in the glass. Soft, rich and full on nose, this is fine-textured wine with a softness and moderate alcoholic warmth. Excellent length. The third preferred wine of the flight and more thought this to be an Australian wine. My score 19.0-/20 Yalumba Virgilius Viognier 2005 (Aus.) 13.5% alc, 1.9 g/l rs, fruit from the Vaughan vineyard. WBP, wild yeasts, BF and 10 months maturation in 4% new French barriques. Virgilius is a barrel selection. Pale straw yellow, very youthful in appearance. Some reduction on nose, very youthful and fresh, a little undeveloped, but the fruit emerges with breathing. Full and with richness on the palate, this has very fine textures and the wine has real presence and weight, though the fruit is a little subdued. The best mouthfeel of the wines in the flight. . The second least preferred for the group and thought to be Australian by more people. My score 18.5-/20 Millton Clos de Ste Anne Viognier 2005 (N.Z.) 13.5% alc, 5.0 g/l rs. Fruit from Les Arbes section of the Clos de Ste Anne vineyard, WBP. Fermented in 600 l demi-muids, wild yeasts, partial MLF. Straw yellow colour with a golden hue. Somewhat linear and shy on nose, this has some savoury apricotty aromas and some smokiness from wild yeasts. Dryish wine, a little sweetness comes through on palate, adding to the soft and luscious front palate. Warm alcohol notes, the fruit is subdued, the palate is carried a little by the sweetness. Good weight. However the least preferred wine by the group, and marginally more thought this to be a N.Z. wine. My score 17.0/20 Flight Two: Riesling N.Z. has around 850 ha of Riesling, Australia over 4,000 ha. Both varieties well-established and regarded as classic. The best Australian examples coming from the Eden Valley and Clare Valley, but other cooler areas also successful. The style of the top wines have intense lime-like flavours . Marlborough and Waipara in North Canterbury are well- regarded for Riesling, though the variety succeeds especially well throughout the South Island. Softer wines, citrus flavoured with botrytis influence often, and working well with residual sugar. New Zealand wines attaining 14 first votes and Australia 3, thus an N.Z. win for Riesling. Grossett Polish Hill Riesling 2007 (Aus.) 13.0% alc, fruit from the Polish Hill, Clare Valley. Very pale straw yellow with youthful green hues to the colour. Very fresh and delicate on the nose, beautifully minerally with purity of expression. Intense, but very fine. Dry, this has lovely delicate, steely lime and mineral flavours on a very finely textured palate. Very good acidity, this is floral and lime infused rainwater, and is very youthful. The second preferred wine of the flight and easily identified as Australian. My score 19.0-/20 Foxes Island Marlborough Riesling 2007 (N.Z.)
12.5% alc, 7.9 g/l rs, fruit from the Old Ford Road vineyard, Awatere Valley. Very pale colour, straw yellow hues. Fuller, broader nose with limes and citrus fruits with minerals and touches of honey and esters lift. Dryish, this is softer and broader than the previous wine. Limes, florals and honey as well as a subtle herb nuance, there is richness with the freshness and a lusciousness present. The third preferred wine of the flight and generally thought to be Australian. My score 18.5+/20 Wirra Wirra Hand Picked Riesling 2006 (Aus.) 12.5% alc, 1.5 g/l rs, fruit from the Adelaide Hills. Very pale straw colour with some youthful green hues. Very gentle bouquet with soft, pure lime aromas, florals minerals and a little toastiness developing. This has a fine purity. On the palate the finesse and gentleness are the highlights, and the harmonious expression shows the finesse and balance. The flavours are linear and soft. The fourth preferred of the flight and marginally more thought it to be from N.Z. My score 18.0+/20 Pegasus Bay Waipara Riesling 2006 (Aus.) 12.1% alc, 30 g/l rs, fruit from the estate vineyard, Waipara. Light straw yellow colour, still pale and youthful. Soft, full, honied nose with florals and limes, gentle and rich. Medium dryish, this is lush and honeyed with ripe citrus fruits and florals on the palate. The acidity is softly fresh and the richness and gentleness is wonderful in its balance. Easily the most preferred wine of the flight by the group and all picked this as a N.Z. wine. My score 18.5/20 Cloudy Bay Marlborough Riesling 2003 (N.Z.) 12.3% alc, 11.8 g/l rs, fruit from Fairhall, indigenous yeasts, fermentation in old oak. Very pale straw yellow colour. Soft and gentle on the nose with honey and toast, quite developed and integrated in the delicate Germanic style. Slightly sweetish on palate, this has honey and toast with some oxidation showing. There is a light grip adding texture, but the wine is open and accessible. The development characters are complex, but the oxidative notes detract a little. The second least preferred of the flight and all picked this as an N.Z. wine. My score 17.5-/20 Taylors St Andrews Clare Valley Riesling 2000 (Aus.) 12.9% alc, the best estate Clare Valley fruit, bottle aged release. Fullish, deep, light golden yellow colour. Fully developed aromas of toast and kerosene, yet with a restraint. Integrated and harmonious in its componentry. Dry on palate, this is full and broad, but rich and very complex from its development. Very toasty and an esters aromatic lift to the expression. Fully mature, mellow and broad, this is at the end of its plateau, and is just starting to decline as indicated by its breadth and softness. The least preferred of the flight by the group, and identified by all as the aged Australian wine. My score 18.0/20 Flight Three: Chardonnay A most important varietal for both countries, N.Z. having 3,700 ha and Australia 30,000 ha planted. Both countries run the gamut of styles, from warmer climate, broader wines to the elegant, cooler versions. In this flight the countries of origin were generally identified wrongly! Australian wines received 15 first votes and New Zealand only two. It appears Australia is seeking elegance and New Zealand is looking for ripeness. Oakridge Yarra Valley Chardonnay 2006 (Aus.) 13.0% alc, fruit from 75% Hoddles Creek, 25% Coldstream, destemmed and WBP, inoculated and indigenous yeasts, BF and 10 months in 35% new French oak. Pale straw yellow with youthful green hues. Full, powerful nose with complex nutty, mealy fruit aromas with oak and funky sulphide nuances. Tight and firm. Deep, crisp and cool palate, some reduction, but in the complex style in combination with nutty, mealy fruit flavours. Some oak taostiness. A slight grip to the texture adds to the tight, youthful expression. Good depth, but moderately rich only at this stage, the crisp acidity
contributing to the slight austerity. A winemakers wine. The third preferred wine in the flight, with marginally more of the tasters identifying it as an N.Z. wine. My score 18.5/20 Craggy Range Beaux Caillou Chardonnay 2005 (N.Z.) 14.6% alc, fruit from the Gimblett Gravels vineyard, WBP, indigenous yeasts, BF and 14 months in 54% new French barriques. Very pale straw yellow colour, youthful in appearance. Very full, gentle, soft, mealy and tropical fruit nose, nutty, with a ripeness and sweetness to the fruit. Soft, mellow MLF component, all finely expressed. Quite accessible and with a softness on palate, grapefruit flavours with mealiness and tropical fruit notes and a little lift, along with barrel ferment creaminess. Lovely supple wine, a touch on the easy side. The fourth equal preferred of the wines in the flight and thought to be Australian. My score 18.5+/20 Sileni Estates Exceptional Vintage Chardonnay 2005 (N.Z.) 13.5% alc, 4.8 g/l rs, fruit from the best blocks in the Plateau vineyard, WBP, BF and 10 months in 50% new French barriques, MLF. Light straw yellow with light golden hues. Very white burgundian with nutty notes and light oxidative elements, but with richness and lusciousness to the bouquet. Very rich, dense and concentrated on the palate, plush and soft, the acidity a little on the low side, but with immense concentration of nutty flavours in amalgam with citrus fruits and tropical flavours. Great powr and depth, and accessible now. Very long on the finish. The least preferred of the flight by the group however, and thought to be Australian by nearly all the tasters. My score 19.0+/20 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2004 (Aus.) 14.5% alc, inoculated yeast, BF and 11 months in 100% mew French barriques, no MLF. Very pale straw yellow colour, youthful. Gentle, ripe tropical fruit aromas on bouquet with a little citrus componentry, the oak is subtle in expression. Full-bodied and powerful on the palate, with tropical fruits and nutty flavours, quite subtle. The fruit is a little shy, and the alcohol warmth shows through. Nutty flavours emerge and enrich the palate. Very good length. Easily the most preferred wine of the flight for the tasters. Nearly all picked this as an N.Z. wine. My score 18.0/20 Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay 2004 (Aus.) 13.5% alc, fruit from Henty, Western Australia. BF and 11 months in 50% 1 y.o. and 50% 2 y.o. French barriques. Very pale straw colour, youthful in appearance. Very delicate and refined nose of mealy fruit and ripe tropical aromas along with grapefruit. Very elegant and very subtle. A beautifully elegant wine on palate with gentle citrus and mealy fruit flavours. Fresh from the acidity, this is young, but there is concentration and length. Extremely fine and distinctly cool-climate. The second preferred of the flight and generally picked as an N.Z. wine. My score 18.5/20 Morton Estate Coniglio Chardonnay 2002 (N.Z.) 14.0% alc, fruit from the Riverview vineyard, BF and 12 months in new French barriques, partial MLF. Straw yellow colour, quite youthful in appearance. Pure, ripe tropical fruit aromas with shy, mealy, nutty notes. However there is power in the presence and massive oak backing, in good balance. Fullbodied, rich and powerful, this has rich, sweet, ripe fruit flavours, tropical in expression and with plenty of nutty oak. This has power, warmth, richness, and real length. The fourth equal preferred wine and generally thought of as Australian. My score 19.0/20 The Winner In overall first preference votes, New Zealand was the winner, with 30 first votes and Australia beaten with 20 first votes. Though New Zealand beat Australia with Viognier and Riesling, Australian Chardonnays were better received than New Zealand examples. It seems as though New Zealand is making the better whites than Australia, based on the results of this tasting.