Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards Fashion Retailer of the

2006 Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 FROM THE EDITOR The best of the best IT STARTED WITH A CHANGE IN NAME. It ended with a night of celebration. But what went on between times is what gives the Ragtrader TNT Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards its true point of difference. The process began as far back as June when the first call for entries was posted. Having built on the experiences learnt as a result of our first two fashion business awards, for this – our third incarnation – we introduced a raft of changes in an attempt to make the awards bigger, bolder and, consequently better, than ever before. The first change saw us divide the chain store category into two divisions – under 20 and over 20. Constructed in an attempt to truly acknowledge the diversity of the calibre of entrants in this group, it had the desired effect of pitting apples with apples among the big boys and allowing some of the smaller chains a chance to shine in their own right. Observant readers may also notice we have fine-tuned our boutique category for the 2006 awards. Rather than stick with our proven stateby-state formula, this year we elected to further segregate the category into womenswear, menswear and childrenswear/youthwear. Our third change to the awards program saw us reconfigure our department store category. This category has always proved a bit of a bugbear for judges who have traditionally found it a two-horse race. To get around that problem this year, we invited nominations from suppliers then put together an industry panel to throw its thought into the mix about which department store was truly the best performer from a consumer point of view. The high class standard across all award categories made the task of our judges – retail industry consultant Amanda Young, Ragtrader Melbourne reporter Belinda Smart and our panelists – very difficult and I wish to take this opportunity to applaud their collective efforts. On behalf of the entire Ragtrader team, I would also like to offer my hearty congratulations to all participants in this year’s awards. To the winners, the runners-up and the finalists – you have proven you have what it takes to foot it with the most creative and innovative brands in the fashion industry – surely the most dynamic of sectors. You have done yourselves, your suppliers and your customers proud. Of course, none of this would be possible without the generous support of our naming rights sponsor TNT, on board for the third consecutive year, together with assisting sponsor Storeworks and supporting sponsors Fiji Water, Marie Claire, Napoleon, Paper-Pak and Penline. Keep up the good work. Tracey McEldowney – Editor JUDGING CRITERIA The holy grail of fashion retailing WHAT MAKES ONE CHAIN OR INDEPENDENT BOUTIQUE BETTER THAN ANOTHER? HOW EFFECTIVE IS ADVERTISING IN ENTICING A CUSTOMER IN THROUGH THE DOORS? BELOW, RAGTRADER JUDGES AMANDA YOUNG AND BELINDA SMART OUTLINE THE JUDGING CRITERIA THAT HELPED SORT THE RETAILING MIGHTY FROM THE RETAILING MEEK. First impressions » Does the shop have clean, modern fascia and signage? » Does it have the “pull factor”? » How effective is visual merchandising? Breadth and depth of employee training » What training exists and what does it entail? » How are training results measured? » What evidence is there of staff review measures in place? » What other relevant employee initiatives and/or incentives exist? » What is the level of employee turnover? Store layout » What use has been made of store design, lighting and/or window area? » Is lighting used to maximum effect? » How is the window area utilised? » Does the counter cater to impulse purchases? » Are the changing rooms large enough and fitted-out with mirrors, hooks and a chair? » Are the changing rooms private? » Is there innovative display merchandising? » Does the store have a particular atmosphere or ambience? Consultant Amanda Young – who was executive director of the Australian Centre for Retail Studies until earlier this year – boasts a resumé that includes a Masters in Management and numerous senior positions at Myer. Amanda Young Belinda Smart Marketing, advertising and promotions » What type of materials are used? » What use of point of sale material is evident? » Is the information presented accurate and up-to-date? » What is the level of localised advertising? » Is the store/company/chain involved in community activities? » Does the retailer utilise letterbox drops? » Does the retailer employ national advertising campaigns and/or catalogue promotion? How effective are the methods used? » Does the store/company/chain have a website and what does it offer the consumer? » Does the company actively use PR? » Does the store have a customer loyalty program and a customer database? Business/operations » What is the percentage revenue and sales growth over the past three years? » What information systems are in place and what are the benefits to the business and the customer? » How many years of industry experience do each of the top three people in the company possess? » How good is the relationship between the retailer and its suppliers? » What is the stock availability and suitability for the target market? What is the discounting strategy? » Does the store/company/chain meet its published payment policy? » What is the store/company/chain’s buying policy? » Is there a layby policy? Customer service » How many staff? » Do all staff wear uniforms or a particular fashion to reflect the brand/store? » Is the store/chain’s staff attentive, friendly and knowledgeable? » What is the quality of customer service? » How well do staff know the store/company/ chain’s product? 2 AWARDS 2006 Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 JUDGES OVERVIEW A tough game UK RETAIL GURU PHILLIP GREEN SAYS the secret to a successful fashion chain is “being clever about how you sell, giving the customer what they want and giving it to them faster”. Smart retailers know that so much is dependent on what goes on behind the scenes. Among this year’s TNT Ragtrader Fashion Retailer of the Year Award finalists are some retailers undergoing remarkable organisational change, whilst others continue to benefit from years of ongoing refinement to their successful business models. Country Road is noteworthy for having taken some hard decisions, such as exiting wholesale and investing in state-of-the-art technology. Blue Illusion also deserves special recognition for the dramatic changes introduced behind the scenes in its operations. Both of these retailers will be ones to watch. General Pants still has the most amazing culture, while the customer service and store presentation at David Lawrence is exceptional. Tarocash will have everything going for it if it can get its store environment and ambiance right. The smaller chains are just as impressive – store layout and service at Herringbone, and product development and business savvy at Calibre. But what was the difference in the end? While some retailers actually scored higher on individual criteria than the eventual winners, it came down to the best overall score…and ultimately, the ability to continually innovate and not simply rely on a proven formula. Amanda Young Herringbone. Harrolds. Portmans. FASHION STORES COME IN ALL SHAPES and sizes, from a single outlet boutique to a multi-store national chain, but the single factor that unites them is Australia’s saturated and increasingly tough market. Successful retailers must offer visible points of difference – including a consistently high quality product and instore experience as well as value-adding loyalty and promotional initiatives – or today’s demanding consumer will move on. But clearly, the visible elements are nothing without the invisible ones; the training, information technology and supply chain that form the backbone of the business. This year’s independent womenswear and menswear winners – Mariana Hardwick and Harrolds – clearly demonstrated their understanding of this, while also distinguishing themselves through a tangible sense of brand uniqueness within their category. Meanwhile, From St Xavier, the winner in the youth/ kidswear independent category, demonstrated standout commercial savvy and the ability to innovate through its loyalty program and emergent online business. Chains over 20 winner – Portmans – demonstrated commercial acumen, an enviable training and succession culture and the ability to think outside the box. While Peter Alexander – the winner in the under 20 category – presented a truly unforgettable instore experience coupled with commercial savvy that has done little to dull Alexander’s own uniquely personal brand profile. While the standard of all entries was impressive, these winning retailers have set the bar by achieving consistently high standards across all areas of their businesses. Belinda Smart AWARDS 2006 3 Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 DEPARTMENT STORES WINNER: Target Quotables “I think Target has performed incredibly well for the past 12 months. It has a catalogue and the product is on the shelf – you can’t say that about anyone else in the trade.” Australian Fashion Partners managing director Dominic Beirne. of 8.5 points from a possible 10, Target emerged as the early frontrunner. It was closely followed by second-placed David Jones, which scored eight. Newbridge Capital-owned Myer finished third on six points while Target stablemate Kmart finished on three points. So what gave Target its edge? From an operational point of view, 2006 has proven a busy year for the brand, which opened nine new stores and closed five older, smaller stores. With an ongoing strategy of opening in areas where the Target brand remains under-represented, it has announced plans to open between six and eight new stores next year. Yet it was Target’s alliance with Australian designers the panelists credited as one of the most significant changes implemented by the brand over the past 12 months. Taking its cue from the growing alliance between designers throughout Europe and the US, in February Target teamed with Adelaide designer Gwendolynne Burkin to create a limited edition apparel range. Such was the success of this early collaboration, a second campaign was orchestrated with high-profile designers Alice McCall, Tina Kalivas and Melbourne-based label TL Wood. The move was credited by many – including panelist Zoe Edquist – with helping Target to harness its capacity as a trend-driven mass market retailer. “Target is the big winner this year with the move into designer capsule collections. The designers who they are working with have [also] been treated very well,” Edquist claimed. Many of the panel felt that rather than concentrating on price, Target had poured its energies into creating a good balance of quality, styling and value. And it was this that gave it its true power. For fellow panelists Dominic Beirne, Connie Hart and Fraser McEwing, however, it was the brand’s consistency that made it stand out from the pack. McEwing says that while change had been “steady rather than significant”, the fact Target had increased its profit by 4.3 per cent in a difficult trading year – where he claimed it had been “oppressed by former stable mate Myer” – spoke volumes for its performance. “Target holds the premier position in the budget apparel market in Australia. Its point of difference is in offering value, not the cheapest price. Target quality control is also legendary. The Australian population now accepts that childrenswear from Target does not carry the stigma of cheapness but rather excellent styling and quality.” Also claiming Target had “owned the quality stance for decades”, Beirne felt the fact the brand responded to consumer demand – rather than its “David Jones is still seen as the leader in the designer fashion stakes, but I think Myer is gaining ground.” Australian Fashion Council managing director Zoe Edquist. “Target has been held back, to some degree, by the presence of Myer, where encroachment was not encouraged. Now it will have the freedom to move up into the midmarket where it can offer improved value for money.” Ragtrader founder and 40-year industry veteran Fraser McEwing. Target. THE PROBLEM IN LOCATING THE ‘HOW to’ of good department store management lies in the fact that no manual actually exists. But if ever a blueprint were to be constructed you would not have to go much past Coles Myer-led brand Target and David Jones for the template. Unlike in most other award events – judges in the 2006 Ragtrader TNT Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards department store category were not asked to reveal which major retailer had the best design aesthetic. Nor were they asked which department store attracted the best breed of consumer, stocked the trendiest range, had the greatest staff training programs or boasted the biggest turnover. Instead, the request was put to panelists to focus on the big picture; taking into account such things as business practice, strategic direction, market presence, consumer perception and promotional activity. Each panelist was asked to award points for overall performance with the tally then Kmart. collated. With an average score “The Coles Myer repositioning has greatly impacted on Kmart. It has maintained fashion market image for clothing staples.” TAFE NSW Textile Clothing Footwear and Costume program manager Connie Hart. 4 AWARDS 2006 Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 DEPARTMENT STORES own agenda – was what increased the brand’s value from a market perspective. “As consumers have been aware of different needs, Target has met those needs. Take childrenswear for example – it has licensed apparel and Targetbranded apparel yet the Target-branded apparel is better, it has better quality of design and styling and its make is better.” From a promotional point of view, panelists Katrin Neubauer and Assia Benmedjdoub felt Target’s ability to harness trends quickly and communicate these through aggressive advertising campaigns had helped the brand to create a niche in an increasingly cluttered marketplace. Neubauer argued Target’s involvement in the Fashion Targets Breast Cancer campaign had been “significant” in its marketing strategy. There is always room for improvement in any business, however, and panelists noted that in order to stay on top of its game, Target would need to improve its in-store merchandising techniques as well as provide more floor staff to handle increasing sales enquiries that come with moving up the merchandise ladder. It was in this area, however, where panelists felt second-placed store David Jones had few concerns. Having opened some 262 concept stores throughout its major outlets in 2005, David Jones spent the year ramping up its presence throughout Australian capitals. Having successfully capitalised from Myer’s Panelists Zoe Edquist Zoe Edquist was previously a commercial lawyer with national firm Minter Ellison. Edquist began her own fashion business consultancy ‘Turnstyle’ in 2003. In 2004, she was appointed by the Victorian Government to manage the Lucid Business Network – a regional fashion and design business network. In 2006 she was appointed by industry body TFIA to start up the Australian Fashion Council. Dominic Beirne Dominic Beirne holds an MBA (exec) from the Australian Graduate School of Management. He also holds a current certificate IV in workplace assessment and training. Managing director of Australian Fashion Partners, Beirne has consulted to the likes of sass & bide, Pretty Girl Fashion Group and OrotonGroup. His CV includes stints as a fashion agent, wholesaler and he has a family history in department stores throughout Queensland. He is a former treasurer and regional director of Fashion Group International (Sydney). Myer. ownership shake-up, David Jones took the opportunity to sew up exclusive contracts with some Myer suppliers while also introducing an additional 32 concept stores in its Elizabeth Street Sydney store. It has since announced it intends opening three new stores in Westfield Shopping Centres across Sydney, Brisbane and Melbourne over the next two years. Most panelists agreed David Jones is still seen as the leader in the designer fashion stakes with an extremely valuable presence in the marketplace. With a varied offer of both international and Australian designer brands, it also has a unique yet clear positioning. But while David Jones has managed to sustain profit growth through tight inventory management, some panelists felt that by constantly hosting sales, the David Jones brand had begun to get eroded. 2006 has also proved a significant year for third placed Myer whose 61 stores were sold to private equity company Newbridge Capital for $1.4 billion. In the main, panelists felt the sale, takeover and subsequent split of the Coles Myer empire overshadowed many of Myer’s activities this year. While some panelists raised concerns over the fact Myer had little price or position stability – driven largely by the fact earlier in the year it staged its biggest ever stock clearance as part of the sale agreement – all agreed this was likely to change once the dust settled on the new ownership structure. Panelists noted Kmart too had been adversely affected by its ownership structure, with Coles Myer announcing earlier this year its intention to consolidate its brands to three, signalling the demise of Kmart. Katrin Neubauer Katrin Neubauer is marketing manager of Sydneybased retail brand, the MLC Centre. Able to speak five languages, Neubauer is a passionate marketing professional with a track record in driving sales performance across luxury brands and fashion products by implementing creative planning leadership and innovative promotional activities. Fraser McEwing Fraser McEwing founded Ragtrader in 1972. McEwing, who remains on staff as a columnist, has spent more than 40 years writing about the fashion industry. McEwing has worked in a Melbourne woollen mill, sold textiles in Flinders Lane with various degrees of success for various companies, and wrote a novel about the clothing trade in Melbourne in the 1960s. Brian Walker Brian Walker is managing director of consultancy firm The Retail Doctor. A former executive of Westfield, The Athletes Foot and Angus and Coote, he has more than 20 years' experience in the retail industry. Connie Hart Connie Hart is the program Manager, Textile Clothing Footwear and Costume Programs, responsible for all TCF curriculum development and implementation across TAFE NSW. Prior to this, Hart worked for 15 years in the fashion industry. She is a board member of Fashion Group International (FGI) Sydney, president Fashion Students’ Vocations Club and member of “Musee du Chapeau”, Chazelles-sur-Lyon, France. Assia Benmedjdoub Assia Benmedjdoub is Ragtrader’s newest recruit. A former fashion writer for Follow Gentleman, Benmedjdoub holds a Bachelor of Arts in Journalism and has extensive knowledge on both the business and commercial aspects of the fashion industry. David Jones. AWARDS 2006 5 Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 CHAINS OVER 20 STORES WINNER: Portmans ALMOST HALF A CENTURY IN retailing has not dimmed this womenswear specialist’s capacity to stay at the top of its game. From its fledgling post-World War II days under the auspices of founder Joseph Bloom, Portmans has made an affordable price tag, coupled with high fashionability, a central part of its offer. More recently, Portmans’ purchase by retail giant Just Group in 2002 has contributed to rapid growth, resulting in a current penetration of 101 stores across Australia and 15 in New Zealand. At the heart of Portmans’ success is a clearly defined offer that is consistently well executed in-store for the benefit of its target customer; a fun, energetic and confident woman who is “forever 20” at any age, knows good value and how to shop for it. Affordable suiting remains a core of the Portmans range, although Just Group has also expanded into frocks and high quality knitwear, typically promoted around key events such as Spring Racing Carnival. With the exception of knitwear – which is made in China – Portmans is mostly made in Australia, allowing the brand to react smartly to new trends. Continually upgraded POS technology integrated across all stores and distribution centres has also allowed it to continually improve stock turn. Portmans launched a store value loyalty card in February this year, which is available to its 100,000-strong e-port membership base. However, customers are not the only beneficiaries of the retailer’s progressive thinking. Staff retention levels are high, largely due to a standout training program offering long-term career progression, flexibility and perks including a clothing allowance. High levels of performance are rewarded at the annual Kimberley Awards with non-cash prizes, including overseas trips that double as team-building initiatives. Portmans. 1/4 H 6 AWARDS 2006 Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 CHAINS OVER 20 STORES In recent months Portmans further boosted its reputation for pushing the boundaries of retail through a successful collaboration with designer Kit Willow. The Portmans Kit Willow capsule collection was a public relations hit. Around 85 per cent of the range was reserved in advance, largely online by e-port customers, while the initiative attracted custom from outside Portmans’ target market, resulting in increased foot traffic and invaluable new business opportunities. With coups such as this echoing the most cutting edge trends in international fashion retail, Portmans looks set to continue enticing and growing its target market. Portmans. AT A GLANCE STORE Portmans OWNER Just Group FOUNDED 1948 STORE TYPE Womenswear NUMBER OF STORES 116 LABELS Portmans 1/4 H 1/4 H AWARDS 2006 7 Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 CHAINS OVER 20 STORES RUNNER-UP: David Lawrence DAVID LAWRENCE HAS BLOSSOMED since its acquisition by UK businessman Malcolm Webster six years ago, resulting in its transformation from a label with high recall but poor perception into a sought-after full wardrobe offer for professional women. The David Lawrence range is divided into capsules and stories, supported by a standout in-store experience designed to give shoppers accessible styling options and premium service. This is underpinned by a high level of training, with staff encouraged to act as stylists, contributing to the growth of a broad clientele whose most loyal customers are regularly rewarded in gift form. In terms of staff retention, David Lawrence promotes internally, encouraging long-term career progression, while two conferences a year ensure a sense of staff inclusion and the planned establishment of a “buddy” program will further enhance information exchange between staff members. With the launch of a more directional womenswear range planned for next winter, as well as the roll out of menswear and a complete store re-vamp, David Lawrence looks set for sustained growth. David Lawrence. AT A GLANCE STORE David Lawrence OWNER M Webster Holdings FOUNDED 1978 STORE TYPE Womenswear NUMBER OF STORES 30 LABELS David Lawrence HIGHLY COMMENDED: Blue Illusion, Country Road, Country Road. General Pants, Tarocash THE ABILITY FOR LARGE chains to execute their offer over a broad retail base – while continuing to innovate – is no mean feat. All the chains with over 20 outlets that made it to the finals in this year’s awards demonstrated the above capability. A finalist in both the 2004 and 2005 awards, womenswear label Blue Illusion continues to impress by steadfastly testing its limits, enhancing its range with more directional styling, upgrading and rationalising its systems to improve stock turn. It has also continued to improve its activities across all areas, from training through to customer loyalty and promotions. Iconic fashion and homewares retailer Country Road recently clinched around 70 concession deals across department stores David Jones and Myer, spelling greater brand control. It is clearly striving to become an employer of choice by offering standout remuneration and opportunities, as well as pioneering a creche to support its “new-mum” employees. Last year’s winner, youth brand General Pants, again made an impact in 2006 as an excellent employer and a company whose every activity – from staff training to customer loyalty, as well as marketing and promotion – forms part of a fully integrated branding proposition. Finally, menswear retailer Tarocash impressed judges with an outstanding grasp of its target market that has seen it grow from seven to more than 100 stores in less than a decade. Tarocash has also recently adopted innovative marketing strategies; a recent example of which saw loyal customers featured as Tarocash models in an ad campaign in men’s consumer title FHM. 8 AWARDS 2006 Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 1/4 T 1/4 T 1/2 H Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 CHAINS UNDER 20 STORES WINNER: Peter Alexander FOUNDED AS A MAIL ORDER BUSINESS more than 20 years ago, designer Peter Alexander’s self-named sleepwear brand has burgeoned into a standout multi-channel business; following the roll out of 13 bricksand-mortar outlets in the space of two years. Described as “a chain store with a boutique approach”, the brand’s enticing outlets epitomise the concept of a fully integrated retail experience, reflecting the colour, design and wit of Peter Alexander product, which recently extended beyond sleepwear into lifestyle and accessories. “Peter Alexander is about treating yourself, so we’ve given the stores a luxurious feel with the décor, and details like paper and ribbon bags, even though the most expensive clothing is priced at around $129,” the designer explains, adding customers generally spend long periods “playing” in the stores. Despite the success of the outlets, online retail still represents around 45 per cent of the business; in fact Peter Alexander is one of the few labels in Australia to have truly succeeded as a multi-channel retailer, utilising internet, retail and direct catalogue to drive sales. The mix clearly works well, with international sales averaging $250,000 a year. Joining Melbourne apparel giant Just Group six years ago provided the company with the financial and operational backing to grow, but Alexander insists on retaining a personal touch. “I try to maintain direct contact with customers wherever possible. In stores there are pictures of me and the dog [Alexander’s dachshund is used in the label’s branding] so the stores have personality.” Staff are intensively trained in product knowledge and service, he says, adding: “They feel they are working for me not the Just Group.” Despite an annual turnover of around $25 million, Alexander possesses the intuitive gift of knowing when to stop. “We’ll stop at 25 stores because we still want to make shopping at Peter Alexander a destination; or what I call a ‘mass market secret’.” Given that the Peter Alexander store tucked away on the third floor of Melbourne Central is one of the best performers in the centre, the “destination shopping” tag is well deserved. As the designer himself attests, it’s all a far cry from his industrious but unpretentious beginnings. “Sometimes I still think I’m working from the dining room table and thinking: ‘Where on earth am I going to put all these orders?’” AT A GLANCE STORE Peter Alexander OWNER Just Group FOUNDED 1987 STORE TYPE Sleep and leisurewear NUMBER OF STORES 13 LABELS Peter Alexander 1/8 H 10 AWARDS 2006 Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 CHAINS UNDER 20 STORES RUNNER-UP: Calibre MENSWEAR RETAILER CALIBRE HAS cornered the market with an Australian label that couples European designer edge with an attainable price tag. In recent months Calibre has worked to build its fashion range while continually refining its traditional suiting and shirting offer. Premium fabrications and styling give the brand a distinctly contemporary profile, soon to be enhanced when Calibre opens a store in high design building Council House 2 (CH2) – dubbed “Australia’s greenest office building” – in Melbourne’s CBD. The retailer has also consolidated its operational activities, with state-of-the-art retail technology allowing daily reporting and resulting in a “significant jump in turnover”, confirms general manager Freddie Ryan. Calibre – which now operates nine stores across Australia – is keen to expand, within limits. “I think 15 [stores] is about the limit for us,” says Ryan, expressing an ambition in line with the brand’s “quality before quantity” ethos. AT A GLANCE STORE Calibre OWNER/MD Gary Zecevic FOUNDED 1989 STORE TYPE Menswear NUMBER OF STORES Nine LABELS Calibre HIGHLY COMMENDED: Déclic, Edge Clothing, Herringbone, Morrison Déclic. SMALL CHAINS BENEFIT FROM economies of scale coupled with a greater sense of exclusivity than their larger counterparts. And this year’s finalists in the category all leverage these qualities to great advantage. Shirting specialist Déclic impressed judges with an offer based on exclusivity and variety, ensured by a memorable in-store experience and small runs of premium product, the latter available to overseas and interstate customers via a growing online business. Déclic also boasts high staff retention attributed to a healthy incentive system and a “family business” culture. Melbourne youth retailer Edge Clothing has cornered the local market through its broad range of branded street and urban wear and an exciting “one-stop-shop” experience. Strong branding – including a club-style website – has also helped drive consistent sales growth. Edge rewards loyalty from both staff and “e-club” customers with a strong training and incentives program for the former and generous rewards for the latter. Established eight years ago as a shirting and suiting specialist, Herringbone has effectively expanded its brand into a consistent offer that now comprises casual male fashion and a growing womenswear range. A strong emphasis on premium service and a memorable instore experience are underpinned by staff training and incentives. Finally, award-winning Western Australian womenswear chain Morrison demonstrates a clear understanding of its market, with its stores offering a “special but accessible” full wardrobe range that is timelessly stylish rather than trend-driven. With the installation of new technology to integrate its retail and wholesale businesses – as well as interstate expansion planned for next year – Morrison’s unique brand identity looks set to prove a stayer. AWARDS 2006 11 Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 BEST INDEPENDENT WOMENSWEAR WINNER: Mariana Hardwick FEW RETAILERS CAN CLAIM TO have single-handedly put a suburb on the map, but bridalwear specialist Mariana Hardwick is not just any retailer. With more than 20 years in the bridal industry, Hardwick possesses an enviable knack of reinventing herself, most recently with a major move from her former headquarters on Melbourne’s Brunswick Street Fitzroy fashion strip to the Sparta Project in Sydney Road, Brunswick. Housed in an impressive heritage building, the newly-named Hardwick House and Sparta Project is designed as a showcase for Hardwick, with adjoining tenancies attracting innovative businesses in the fields of millinery, cuisine, jewellery, fashion and art. As Hardwick’s marketing and PR manager Rebekah Malone explains: “the building acts as a real anchor for the area. It has really put Sydney Road on the map.” The move has also allowed Hardwick to refine her supply chain and stock tracking, largely through the installation of state-ofthe-art POS and customer relationship management systems. As most bridal purchases are a one-off affair, Hardwick has implemented a bridal referral program and diffusion label to ensure repeat business and a loyal following. Staff retention levels are high, with salon manager Susie Braithwaite having worked for the company for 20 years while factory clearance manager Marie Cummings clocks in at 16 years. Malone states simply: “I can’t imagine working anywhere else.” Malone attributes staff retention to excellent training and company culture. Sales staff receive a one-week induction and shadow more experienced staff members for two months before taking on their own clients. Attention to detail and standout service are a crucial aspect of training. “Simply put, the company’s vision is to have every bride leave the store having had a unique and unforgettable Mariana Hardwick experience.” AT A GLANCE 12 AWARDS 2006 STORE Mariana Hardwick OWNER Mariana Hardwick ESTABLISHED 1982 STORE TYPE Bridalwear FLAGSHIP STORE 459-475 Sydney Road, Brunswick, VIC 3056 LABELS Mariana Hardwick bridalwear and ready-to-wear Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 BEST INDEPENDENT WOMENSWEAR RUNNER-UP: Andiamo HAVING WON BEST independent for New South Wales in last year’s awards – thanks to a standout fashion offer targeted at the 30-plus market – Andiamo can’t seem to stop the accolades pouring in. The retailer was voted Fashion Retailer of the Year for the second year in a row in Sydney’s Inner West Business Awards, as well as winning the 2006 Small Business Awards ‘Champion of Champions’ award in the fashion category. The last year has seen Andiamo’s Balmain store revamped and rebadged, while the business also launched a website initiative designed to maximise links via online search engine Google, as well as a special winter website promotion that saw more than 500 leads converted into new Andiamo devotees. These, along with the rest of the retailer’s substantial following, look set to benefit from the reliability of Andiamo’s offer – high quality, “fashionable clothing that fits” time-poor women, with a high level of personalised service to match. AT A GLANCE STORE Andiamo OWNER Ronnie Sansonetti ESTABLISHED 1995 STORE TYPE Womenswear FLAGSHIP STORE Darling Street Balmain, NSW 2040 LABELS Andiamo, Marco Polo, Sirocco, Capital M, Gitane, 9 by Saba, Nougat, Sheer Bliss, SAKS HIGHLY COMMENDED: Bellybutton, The Dressing Room, Cloudberry GIVEN WOMENSWEAR’S SUPREMACY over the fashion retail landscape, it is no surprise the category was crowded with high-calibre entrants in this year’s awards. While the overall standard was impressive, a handful of retailers made it into the final round thanks to welltargeted, well-executed offers, sound business nous and, most importantly, an unrelenting drive to innovate via “outside-the-box” thinking. The womenswear boutique finalists were Melbourne maternitywear specialist Bellybutton, Gold Coast womenswear store The Dressing Room and Adelaide jewellery and accessories retailer Cloudberry. Founded as a wholesale business by Debora Kapsiotis six years ago to target the “modern mum” market, Bellybutton Maternity’s directional offer initially met with resistance from retailers. Undeterred, Kapsiotis went on to open her own store and found she had tapped into an unquenchable demand for her products, resulting in swift retail expansion and a burgeoning wholesale business. Meanwhile, offering a range of afterfive womenswear priced from affordable to upper-end and targeted at both mothers and daughters, The Dressing Room appears to have the Gold Coast’s female fashion crowd sewn up. Dressing room staff are encouraged to build their own client list and are rewarded with both cash and non-cash incentives. The store is known to locals for its spectrum of social and promotional events, regularly spicing up the retail experience with theme days centred around a particular brand or concept. Last, but by no means least, Cloudberry founder Harriet Moursellas’ mid to high-end fashion accessories, crafted from premium imported materials, have proven an irresistible drawcard for customers requiring bespoke or offthe-peg product from necklaces to fascinators. The result is the growth in three years of a customer base well into the thousands, with the most loyal invited to VIP nights four times annually. The store – which operates its own training program comprising selling, making and repairing – rewards staff with structured commission and bonus packages. With plans to open an outlet in each major Australian city over the next few years, this retailer has clearly built planned, structured growth into its long term strategy. 1/4 T AWARDS 2006 13 Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 BEST INDEPENDENT MENSWEAR WINNER: Harrolds IF ANY STORE KNOWS THAT GOOD retail goes beyond simply selling clothes, it is high-end menswear specialist Harrolds. The store, whose flagship outlet on 101 Collins Street comes complete with coffee lounge and tailoring service, is fast gaining a reputation as an unofficial men’s club. Since clinching last year’s award for Best Victorian Independent Retailer, Harrolds has expanded its offer of handpicked, often exclusive brands, to include a spectrum of labels – including Cavalli, D&G and Paul Smith – aimed at the younger market. Designed to extend Harrolds’ scope to cover the needs of clients’ sons, the move implies this men’s emporium is a Melbourne institution in the making. To this end, as Theo Poulakis confirms, the past year has seen Harrolds implementing an impressive array of branding events. Examples include a Spring Racing Carnival high tea for clients’ wives and girlfriends, Spring Racing drinks and a Christmas party, with further seasonal events expected. As well as the implementation of custom-designed point of sale technology and a training camp four times a year, the retailer has enhanced its brand presence with the launch of a high tone Christmas catalogue, designed more as a branding tool than a selling document. Melburnians can also expect to see a Harrolds vintage gift truck doing the rounds throughout the city before long. “The truck is designed to be instantly recognisable. It’s all about creating an emotional link with our clients,” Poulakis explains, adding it is hoped the brand will one day be up there with the likes of iconic brands such as [high-end jewellery chain] Tiffany’s. Harrolds’ growing presence in the market means the pipe dream has a strong chance of coming true. AT A GLANCE AT A GLANCE STORE Harrolds OWNER John and Theo Poulakis ESTABLISHED 1985 STORE TYPE Menswear emporium FLAGSHIP STORE 101 Collins Street, Melbourne, VIC 3000 LABELS Brioni, Kiton, Caruso, Pal Zileri, Artioli, Fratelli Rossetti, Creed, D&G Just Cavalli, Paul Smith, Reporter, 96 Hours by Puma, Santoni, Stefano Ricci, Dalmine, Jemala, Luigi Borelli, Dunhill, Seraphin RUNNER-UP: Always Habit EARNING A “HIGHLY COMMENDED” accolade among the Queensland independents in last year’s awards, Always Habit continues to kick goals as an innovative, constantly evolving retailer. Founder Vanessa Hoe’s mantra of “turning boys into men” has proven a hit with Brisbane blokes, especially following the recent opening of a store in the city’s edgy Fortitude Valley district, where a distinctly local offer sets it apart. “I’ve really cornered the market in funky Brisbane labels, which are being snapped up, particularly in the Valley store,” says Hoe. Always Habit’s self-named label – which accounts for around 80 per cent of business – has also expanded to offer shirts, jeans and tees; these are also available through the retailer’s online store and will soon be distributed wholesale through selected boutiques across Australia. STORE Always Habit OWNER Vanessa Hoe FOUNDED 2003 STORE TYPE Menswear NUMBER OF STORES Five LABELS Always Habit, Democrata, Neo, Veinwear (shoes) Vanguard, Uberstone, Leduc, Trash Tusa, Bam Bam 1/8 H 14 AWARDS 2006 Fashion Retailer of the Year Awards 2006 BEST INDEPENDENT YOUTH/KIDSWEAR WINNER: From St Xavier RUNNER-UP: Mill & Mia FROM ST XAVIER OFFERS STREETwear and dressy options for both men and women with a strong emphasis on cutting edge brands. It has also garnered a strong presence among the fashion crowd from Bondi and beyond, largely thanks to its standout events schedule. This includes regular VIP nights – often featuring key designers – as well as the “Black Angel” party – a riff on the store’s angel logo – held twice yearly and supported by social and fashion press. The store has an innovative approach to customer loyalty, operating a ‘Frequent Fashion Points’ program and a designer nomination system through which customers submit their favourite label in order to receive SMS updates on new product drops and designer events. From St Xavier is also entering the multi-channelling game – with a fully functional online store set to launch in the coming months, confirms manager Bella Jakubiak. “We’ve done a lot of research on the online project and while Australians are generally not used to shopping for fashion online, we believe an adequate returns policy will encourage the growth of the online business,” she says. Staff training is hands-on and personnel are encouraged to act as full service stylists, with gift vouchers awarded for strong sales performances. From St Xavier recently installed a customised reporting system, which allows it to track stock closely to drive turnover and sales. With plans to open a Melbourne outlet next year and re-launch its own T-shirt label for winter 2007, the angel of From St Xavier looks set to take flight. FOUNDED BY MELISSA CHEN AND Simon Waters, Mill & Mia takes pride of place within the “Hawksburn Village” childrenswear hub that has evolved around Melbourne’s Malvern Road. Chen and Waters established the label having identified a gap in the market for exciting Australian highend kidswear, and since moving into retail have added toys, linen and accessories to the offer. Mill & Mia’s point of difference lies largely in small runs of its own label that provide a sense of exclusivity. Loyal customers, lured by the store’s personalised style of service, are rewarded in gift form or with VIP “meet the designer” evenings, while staff benefit from flexible, family friendly schedules and bonuses for managers. This locally made, highly desirable label now holds wholesale accounts in eight countries outside Australia and is currently contemplating further retail expansion. AT A GLANCE STORE Mill & Mia OWNERS Melissa Chen and Simon Waters ESTABLISHED 2002 STORE TYPE Kidswear STORE 582 Malvern Road, Prahran VIC 3181 LABELS Mill & Mia, Edenstar, Pure Baby AT A GLANCE STORE From St Xavier OWNER Simon Krite ESTABLISHED 2002 STORE TYPE Men’s and women’s youth wear STORE 75 Gould Street, Bondi Beach, NSW 2026 LABELS Alice McCall, Nookie, Pani, Natasha, Cohen et Sabine, Grain, Oscar, Free Soul, Buddhist Punk, Religion, Z-brand 1/4 T 1/4 T AWARDS 2006 15 FP