Wedding gowns are futureof haute couture

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					theSun     | FRIDAY FEBRUARY 5 2010                                                                                                                                                                                     27

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FASHION & BEAUTY EDITOR: Peter Yap E-MAIL: peteryap@thesundaily.com
                                                                                                                                                                                                                     AFPPIX




                                                                                                                              Galliano gets
Wedding gowns are                                                                                                             the riding habit

future of haute couture
                                                                                                                              THE SOUND OF whinnying horses and thundering
                                                                                                                              hooves set the scene for Christian Dior’s haute couture
                                                                                                                              show for next summer, with its opening sequence of rid-
                                                                                                                              ing habits, a personal favourite of Monsieur Dior.
                                                                                                                                   Designer John Galliano’s Amazonians brandished riding
                                                                                                                              crops and sported black velvet top hats with fishnet veils
                                                                                                                              over their tightly-fitted jackets with stiff peplums, frothy
LEBANESE designer Zuhair Mu-                                                                                                  white neckties, and full riding skirts in scarlet, charcoal
rad seems confident that wedding                                                                                               grey or traditional checked English tailoring fabrics.
dresses could save haute couture                                                                                                   In his more than 10 years tenure at Dior, Galliano
in the long run.                                                                                                               keeps returning to Dior’s New Look and his “bar”
    “Prêt-à-porter covers every-                                                                                                jacket, this time updating it with an asymmetric
thing else,” Murad told Relaxnews                                                                                              cut and origami folds. His models’ whitened
in his Paris showroom during                                                                                                   faces only served to increase their resemblance
haute couture fashion week. “You                                                                                                  to geishas.
have oufits for your dinner,                                                                                                             In contrast to his horsewomen, Galliano’s
your cocktail, daytime. [...]                                                                                                        cocktail outfits were ultra feminine. Silk
But a haute couture dress                                                                                                             jackets bristled with faux stones and fluffy
that you’ll hopefully only                                                                                                             embroidery, in soft pastel shades of prim-
use once in a lifetime,                                                                                                                  rose, peach and pistachio, over skirts in
that’s our niche in the                                                                                                                   layers of tulle or lace.
market.”                                                                                                                                        Bolder, sculpted, short satin halter
    The designer, who cre-                                                                                                                   neck dresses came in strong combina-
ates both ready-to-wear                                                                                                                      tions, like peacock blue and purple or
and haute couture col-                                                                                                                       fuchsia and prune.
lections and designed                                                                                                                           His finale of grand entrance ballgowns
300 individual dresses                                                                                                                    had slender bodices, emphasised by over-
for his clients in one                                                                                                                  the-elbow evening gloves, and floor-sweep-
year, counts Hol-                                                                                                                    ing skirts and trains. Some models needed
lywood’s biggest                                                                                                                     two male assistants to help them navigate
stars and the Mid-                                                                                                                   the stairs in the salons off the Champs
dle Eastern royal                                                                                                                    Elysees where the show was held.
families among his                                                                                                                        Australian singer Kylie Minogue and
clients. According to                                                                                                                Hong Kong actress Maggie Cheung were
him, his brand also has a                                                                                                         among the invited guests applauding from
strong customer base in Middle                                                                                                   the front row.                                                                     Christian
Europe, Russia, and China.                                                                                                          “The silhouettes are amazing and the                                         Dior’s haute
    But he says the haute couture                                                                                             colours are like the palette of a painter, perhaps                               couture show
trade has changed, and designers                                                                                              (Pierre) Bonnard,” Cheung enthused. – AFP
should change with it. While the
“relation between the designer
and the client is very important”,
according to Murad, “[well-                                                                                                   As crisis bites, Greek women drop boots for wellies
funded] women don’t have time
for fittings anymore.”                                                                                                         FLASHY BOOTS have become an early casualty in debt-
    Karl Lagerfeld addressed this                                                                                             hit Greece where thousands of thrift-minded women
issue too when he was interviewed                                                                                             are switching to rubber wellingtons instead, top-selling
by the Telegraph, claiming that                                                                                               Greek daily Ta Nea said last week.
“haute couture has become a                                                                                                       At a time when the recession-hit country’s govern-
private jet business”, which                                                                                                  ment plans tax hikes and benefit cuts, boot sales have
has designers travel to their                                         Zuhair Murad Spring Summer                              fallen up to 20% while their humble rubber cousins are
clients instead of the other way                                      2010 Haute Couture                                      flying off the shelves, the daily said.
around.                                                                                                                           “Boots were supposed to have been a vital ac-
    As for ready-to-wear, Murad                    that will die down soon.”    (he incorporated spikes                       cessory this year but the crisis and mild weather
told Relaxnews that designers                     And he added that in order    and studs into flowing gowns) and              changed all that,” Christos Doryzas, a
needed to be far more sensitive           to increase their reach, collabora-   classic elegance, between military            commercial manager at Greek shoe-
for trends than in haute couture.         tions with fast fashion retailers     – inspired by Napoleonian uni-                makers Dexim, told the newspaper.
However, he doesn’t approve               such as H&M or Uniqlo were far        forms – and soft baroque. Female                  Greek shoppers usually wait for
of the current celebrity-turned-          less damaging to their image.         shapes were celebrated with pad-              the January sales to replenish their winter
designer phenomenon: “It’s a                  Zuhair Murad showed his           dings on hips and corset dresses,             wardrobes but some manufacturers were running out
hundred percent commercial,” he           haute couture collection on Jan       and the micro skirts paired with              of Wellingtons even before the store offers began last month, Ta Nea said.
told Relaxnews. “People should            26. His dresses were poised be-       dramatic trains at the back look                  “Greek women would never have dared appear in Wellington boots a few years ago,”
stick to what they know. If she’s a       tween masculinity and femininity,     as if another successful red carpet           said Argyris Georgoudas, general manager of a shoe company that represents British
singer, let her sing. [...] It’s a wave   between trendy rock’n’roll chic       season lurks on the horizon.                  shoemakers Clarks and Swiss-based Bally in Greece.
                                                                                                                                  “But their sales have been rising for the past three years, and this year there was a
                                                                                                                              real spurt in the market,” he said.

                   Stylish summer                                                     Gift of love                                Rainboot sales are currently up around 30%, bucking a 15-20% fall in overall shoe
                                                                                                                              sales.
                   PRESENTING a fresh new look, the BOSS                              A UNIVERSAL emblem of                       Greeks spend an estimated 1.5 billion euros (RM7.5 billion) a year on shoes, the paper
                   Orange Collection for 2010 Spring/Summer                           love, the heart has held mean-          said. – AFP Relaxnews
                   collection for men is contemporary, casual                         ing for centuries. In early eras,
                   and citified.                                                       it was thought to be the centre
                       The driving force behind the new direc-
                   tion since 2008, Eyan Allen, Creative Direc-
                                                                                      of emotion and symbolised love, warmth and
                                                                                      courage. The heart represents life and gifting                               The new blues
                   tor of BOSS Orange came out with stylish                           your heart, signifies the selfless act of giving
                   summer looks in which 1950s vintage,                               everything to someone you love.                                              FOR spring 2010, Banana Republic
                   denim and workwear influences meld with                                    To capture this simple yet powerful affec-                            introduces their new denim collection.
                   contemporary and conceptual elements.                                    tion, RISIS celebrates the magic of love this                          With new washes and new fits, you can
                       Cuts are streamlined and the shapes are                                 Valentine’s Day captivating hearts by in-                           now look forward to new ways to wear
                   clean while special finishing treatments lend                                 troducing the Hearts in Love Collection.                           them.
                   the styles an unusual feel and colour inten-                                   This stylish assortment of pendants                                  Denim to fit any occasion, work or
                   sity. Stylishly washed, this versatile fabric                                  each feature a heart-shaped locket                               casual, let Banana Republic create your
                   takes the shape of overalls, tailored jeans in                                  adorned with elements reminiscent                               perfect denim look head-to-toe building
                   vintage finishings, and fresh interpretations                                            of love and the delight of                              the ultimate denim wardrobe.
                   of classic denim shirts that make a laidback,                                             being in love. Drizzled with                              The mood of understated ease is
                   authentic statement. Reworked chinos and                                                   lustrous enamel, glittering                          exemplified in the blues. The denim as-
                   a plaid shirt, denim jackets featuring work-                                               crystals and gold accents,                           sortment spans the colour spectrum:
                   wear detailing, and a denim trench coat all                                                 each locket is also plated                          hues borrowed from faded azure skies,
                   send a message of relaxed masculinity.                                                        in glossy rhodium and                             cornflower blue and Jasper John’s deep,
                       Waxed technical fabrics provide a                                                         dangles from a smooth                             familiar indigo.
                   masculine touch, reinvented trench coats,                                                    chain.                                                 Newly redrawn denim silhouettes
                   uniform jackets and hooded windbreakers                                                           The Hearts in Love                            for men and women include The Boy-
                   come in coated linen or cotton. Denim ac-                                                     Collection is available                           friend and The Ultimate Skinny-feature
                   cessories– the season’s highlights – include                                                 at Risis Gift Galleries                            saturated washes, streamlined fits or
                   rucksacks, sneakers and shoes featuring a                                                    in Mid Valley Megamall,                            artfully de-constructed finishes.
                   mix of denim-look linen, suede and patent                                                   Suria KLCC and Pavilion                                 Available at an affordable price
                   leather.                                                                                       Kuala      Lumpur     or                         starting from RM309, the Banana
                       Boss Orange is exclusively available at                                                     Risis online (www.risis.                        Republic Spring 2010 collection is avail-
                   M Store in The Gardens Mall. For more                                                            com). – Soo Wern                               able at Suria KLCC and The Gardens
                   information, visit www.hugoboss.com.                                                              Jun                                           Mall. – Soo Wern Jun

				
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