SUMMER '09 SELECTIONS by fjwuxn

VIEWS: 13 PAGES: 14

									                                              SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS

               Appalachian Meadow Creek Dairy (raw cows’ milk. Galax, VA)
               A bright, nutty quadrangular cheese with a musty, mushroomy rind. Made from raw Jersey milk
               and aged for 4 to 5 months, Appalachian is a fine specimen of an Alpine-style tomme. The ochre,
               golden-colored paste is supple yet snappy and has a subtle but deep flavor that is attributed to the
               fine pasture that the cows graze. A mellow but beautiful cheese that would make the strapping
               Swiss cowherds swoon.

               Ascutney Mountain Cobb Hill Farm (raw cows’ milk. Hartland, VT)
               Ascutney Mountain (incidentally a cheese and a mountain) hails from an intentional community in
               Vermont started by Donella H. Meadows, a Harvard PhD in biophysics. What is an intentional
               community, you may ask? An online encyclopedia defines it as a ‘planned residential community
               with a much higher degree of social interaction that other communities.’ In the case of Cobb Hill,
               the community is devoted to sustainable agriculture. The cheese makers, Gail Holmes and Marsha
               Carmicheal had never set foot in a dairy before moving to Cobb Hill, but took notes from some of
               the best in the biz and learned their craft with astonishing speed. Ascutney is a rich, deep yellow
               cheese with a pleasant, nutty and lightly sweet flavor.

               Aspenhurst Jasper Hill Farm (raw cows’ milk. Greensboro, VT)
               Aspenhurst is a clothbound, cheddar-style cheese from Jasper Hill Farm that is cellar matured for
               over 12 months. The Kehler brothers’ inspiration for Aspenhurst actually came from a combination
               of English Leicester and a British Farmstead cheese called Doddington. The result is melt-in-your-
               mouth, fruity and rich cheese. The paste is dense and crumbly, and when very aged, laced with
               pockets of crunchy crystalline goodness.

               Atlantic Mist Mecox Bay Dairy (raw cows’ milk. Bridgehampton, NY)
               As close to a raw milk French Camembert as you can get. Atlantic Mist is a real butter bomb of a
               cheese, with a distinctly piquant barnyard flavor wafting beneath the innocuous snow-white rind.
               Culled from the milk of Art Ludlow’s modest herd of eight cows, Atlantic Mist is a pudgy little
               wonder. The sumptuous and soft bloomy rind tastes of mushrooms and wet straw, and the gooey
               interior is golden and sweet as fresh milk. Aged for 60 days on the dot, Atlantic Mist just manages
               to squeak by federal raw milk regulations.

               Barick Obama Lazy Lady Farm (pasteurized cows’ milk. Westfield, VT)
               A noble square of delicious cows’ milk cheese inspired by our new commander in chief. Barick
               looks like the French Pont L’Eveque, and shares with it it’s beefy buttery flavor. The delicate
               pungency of the washed rind is nuanced with notes of green apples and fresh wet straw.

               Battenkill Tomme Three Corner Field Farm (raw cow and sheeps’ milk. Shushan, NY)
               A fine aged tomme from the milk of Karen Weinberg’s flock of ewes coupled with rich cows’ milk
               from a neighboring dairy. Salty, creamy, and rich with a hint of luscious, citrusy lemon and toasted
               almonds. Aged four to five months in the cellar at Three Corner Field Farm, the flavor of Battenkill
               Tomme shows the best and the brightest of the late summer and early fall pastured milk it is made
               from. This tomme takes its name from the little Battenkill River which winds its way through the
               hamlet of Shushan.

               Bayley Hazen Blue Jasper Hill Farm (raw cows’ milk. Greensboro, VT)
               This blue is so good it’s almost obscene. Almost. Named after the Bayley Hazen road, built by
               George Washington to launch a Canadian invasion way back when, it is creamy and chocolaty and
               salty, oh my. The craftsmanship executed by the families Kehler up at Jasper Hill is laudable, and
               lucky for us, edible too. Kinda makes you thankful we ever had a reason to fight with Canada.

Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                               SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS

              Ben Nevis Bonnieview Farm (raw sheeps’ milk. South Albany, VT)
              Named after the tallest mountain in Scotland, Ben Nevis is an interestingly shaped jewel of a
              cheese from Bonnieview Dairy. The aging of this cheese can range from quite young, just four or
              five months, to downright old and rustic. Grassy, bright and slightly tart, Ben Nevis resembles a
              good young pecorino. The paste is firm and has a flaky, toothsome texture.

              Big Bang Lazy Lady Farm (raw cows’ milk. Westfield, VT)
              Oh Laini. What have you come up with this time? Big Bang, a subtle, yet wonderfully pungent
              washed rind cheese is a combination of two cheeses in one. The inner core is comprised of a semi-
              ripened double cream cows’ milk cheese, and the outer layer is a more robust heated-curd cheese.
              The result is somewhat explosive, with the creamy outer layer colliding with the thick buttery
              center.

              BiPartisan Lazy Lady Farm (raw goat and cows’ milk. Westfield, VT)
              An unctuous and buttery cheese that is a marvel of curd engineering. Made by the ever-inventive
              Laini Fondiller, BiPartisan brings together the best of the barnyard, mixing a young and tangy
              mold-ripened goat cheese with a washed-rind cow cheese. How does she do it? Well, she starts
              with a small round of goats’ milk cheese, which is allowed to ripen and form a white fluffy rind.
              She then whips up a batch of cows’ milk cheese with a soft and pliant curd, fills the cheese mold
              half way, drops the tiny goat cheese in the center (the ta-da moment!) and then covers it over with
              more creamy cow curd. As the cheese ages, it is washed in a salty brine, giving the exterior a
              slightly mushroomy funk. However, the chalky and tangy core of goats’ milk shines through,
              causing the entire cheese bloom with flavor that is part butter, part salt, part rich black soil.

              Bloomsday Cato Corner Farm (raw cows’ milk. Colchester, CT)
              The rare and elusive Bloomsday…it’s like peanut butter and cheese got together and spawned one
              of the tastiest substances in the history of mankind! This cheese began as a happy accident one
              June 16th when Mark Gillman, head cheese maker at Cato Corner, heated the milk just a tad too
              long and had to make up a new cheese on the spot! Bloomsday used to be made just once annually,
              on the anniversary of a day in the life of Leopold Bloom (from James Joyce’s Ulysses) but turned
              out to be so good, they had to make more! Full, rich and hearty to boot with flavors of roasted and
              toasted nuts. This cheese is a true gem.

              Blue Goat Twig Farm (raw goat and cows’ milk. Cornwall, VT)
              Blue Goat. A misnomer if ever there was one... this mixed milk cheese owes it’s peppery, sharpness
              to the addition of some tangy cows’ milk from the neighbors across the road. The goat adds a bit
              of musk and funk. Made last September as the goats were beginning to dry off for the season.
              The goats’ milk at that time of the year begins to be a bit denser, a bit more fatty, and a bit goatier,
              all adding up to a beautiful and unique blue.

              Boucher Blue Green Mountain Cheese Company (raw cows’ milk. Highgate Center, VT)
              A sweet and creamy blue that calls to mind the famous French Fourme d’Ambert. The interior of
              the cheese is absolutely riddled with deep green and blue fissures that taste of white pepper, wet
              straw, and vanilla. The finish is long and quite spicy, leaving a zinger of a blue streak on your
              palate.




Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                               SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS

               Bourree Dancing Cow Farm (raw cows’ milk. Bridport, VT)
               A simple, but elegant little tomme made from the pastured milk of Steve and Karen Getz’s herd.
               Bouree is aged for about five months, with the Getz family entrusting the affinage to the folks up
               at Jasper Hill Farm. All that rind-washing tlc renders Bourree supple, and delicate, with a buttery
               pliant paste and flavors of toasted nuts, tobacco, and freshly cut grass on the palate.

               Brebis Blanche Three Corner Field Farm (pasteurized sheeps’ milk. Shushan, NY)
               Brebis Blanche is a fresh lactic cheese; the milk is allowed to sit out overnight in a cool environment
               to build up lactic acid the evening before the cheese is made. Much like a fresh crottin in some
               respects, but with a lighter and fluffier texture. This cheese is sheepy and nutty, with citrus flavors
               on the finish.

               Brigid’s Abbey Cato Corner Farm (raw cows’ milk. Colchester, CT):
               Named after the Irish patron saint of milkmaids, Brigid’s Abbey is the quintessential Cato Corner
               cheese. The curd is cooked and lightly pressed giving the cheese a moist and springy texture; and
               is aged for two to three months. Brigid’s Abbey is mild and milky, with a lovely natural rind that
               lends it a nutty almost peanut buttery flavor. Good for breakfast, lunch, or dinner; this versatile
               cheese can hang with just about any kind of cuisine.

               Buck Hill Sunshine Lazy Lady Farm (pasteurized cows’ milk. Westfield, VT)
               A delicious brie-style cheese made by Laini Fondiller with the help of her neighbor’s Holstein cows.
               (Don’t worry, they provide the milk, but aren’t allowed into the cheese room!) Buck Hill Sunshine
               has an authentic animal flavor lurking beneath that innocent looking white rind. It is gooey and
               bursting with flavors that range from butter and fresh cut grass to fresh cow pie.

               Burrata Di Bruno Brothers (pasteurized cows’ milk. Philadelphia, PA)
               What could be better on a warm summer’s eve than a nice ball of fresh mozzarella? One word:
               burrata. Burrata is made from fresh curd, which is kneaded and stretched before being formed
               into a pouch-like shape. Claudio Silva, the cheese maker at DiBruno, then fills the interior of the
               pouch with a mixture of thick Italian panna and small scraps of curd called ‘tagli’. The result is a
               sweet, decadent, and buttery cream that oozes forth when cut into. The leaves surrounding the
               cheese are traditionally taken from the tops of leeks, The bright green color of the leaves is mother
               natures’ indicator of the cheese’s freshness.

               Cabot Clothbound Cheddar Matured in the cellars at Jasper Hill Farm (pasteurized cows’ milk.
               Greensboro, VT)
               The grand champion of the 2006 American Cheese Society cheese awards. This cheese has been
               dubbed as addictive as narcotics by certain devoted fans. A hefty, beautiful, and rustic wheel, the
               clothbound cheddar is rich and caramelly, speckled with bits of crystalline crunchy goodness.
               Clothbound cheddar evolved as a partnership between Jasper Hill Farm and Cabot Creamery, two
               of the best dairy enterprises in the Green Mountain State.

               Cayuga Blue Lively Run Goat Dairy (raw goats’ milk. Interlaken, NY)
               Pronounced ‘Cay-oooga!’ This beautifully aged goats’ milk cheese is flaky and firm, with a paste
               that fractures like shale when you cut it. More of an aged goats’ milk tomme than a traditional
               blue, Cayuga Blue is full of strong musky flavors, and is fruity and fermenty on the finish. Tense
               veins of blue mold run throughout the cheese, giving it an earthy, mineral tone.




Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                              SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS

               Constant Bliss Jasper Hill Farm (raw cows’ milk. Greensboro, VT)
               The name says it all really. Made from the raw milk of the Kehlers’ Ayrshire cows, this Bliss is no
               joke. What it is: a creamy and buttery mold-ripened cylinder with a light mushroomy twang. Aged
               for just 60 days, the barest minimum for raw milk cheese, it is the jailbait of American bloomy
               rinds.

               Demitasse Lazy Lady Farm (pasteurized cow and goats’ milk. Westfield, VT)
               Laini Fondiller, owner of Lazy Lady Farm, is a Vermont original, pioneering the artisnanal goat
               cheese movement in the early 90’s. Through the years, she graduated from making cheese on her
               kitchen stovetop to building a barn and cheese house powered almost entirely by solar energy.
               Demitasse is one of her finest offerings: a scrumptious, earthy little cake of goat and cow’s milk
               mixed to create a wonderful symphony of barnyard goodness. Sublime and creamy, this cheese
               evokes the best of both animal worlds: the bright lactic tang of the goat’s milk coupled with the
               rich, funky, and freshly tilled soil flavors present in the cow’s milk.

               Dutch Farmstead Cato Corner Farm (raw cows’ milk. Colchester, CT)
               Dutch Farmstead is crafted from the raw milk (mostly Jersey) of the herd at Cato Corner Farm.
               Golden, buttery, lightly acidic and somewhat cheddary. Based on a classic Gouda recipe and aged
               for three to four months, the old Dutch is a solid snacking cheese. The smooth and even peanut
               shell brown rind adds a scrumptious earthy contrast to the interior paste.

               Dorset Consider Bardwell Farm (raw cows’ milk. West Pawlet, VT)
               Can you say asparagus? Dorset is an incredibly talented shape-shifter of a cheese, melding a
               myriad of different sensory experiences into each tiny morsel you chew. Earth, root vegetables,
               minerals and wet stones are all things that come to mind as the smooth paste melts in your mouth.
               Dorset is fashioned in the style of a simple Alpine tomme, and has a pliant, elastic texture and a
               golden ochre paste.

               Dunmore Blue Ledge Farm (raw goats’ milk. Salisbury, VT)
               One of the gooiest cheeses this side of the Mississippi. Dunmore is a raw milk marvel from Greg
               Bernhardt, Hannah Sessions, and their troupe of stalwart caprine amigas. The one pound wheels
               are coated by a bloomy white rind that comes to buckle and bulge as the cheese ages, evoking the
               finest and most mushroomy flavor one could dream of. Beneath the rind is a layer of buttercream
               soft cheese, leading to a core that is chalky, yet fine in texture. Goat musk mixes with sweet herbal
               and floral flavors to round out this perfect specimen of fromage from Vermont’s Champlain
               Valley.

               Eden Sprout Creek Farm (raw cows’ milk. Poughkeepsie, NY)
               A little bit pungent and a little bit tart... Eden rocks our funky cheese world! Made up the Hudson
               River at Sprout Creek Farm, an agricultural education center for kids of all ages. Eden is washed
               with a saltwater brine and is aged for 3 to 4 months. Its flavor boasts notes of apple cider, caramel,
               and tangy creme fraiche.

               Emotional Lazy Lady Farm (raw goat and cows’ milk. Westfield, VT)
               A racy and pungent cheese with a decidedly salty kick, Emotional is reminiscent of the famed
               French Pont L’Eveque. The paste is laced with earthy and gamey notes, everything from pine
               needles to beef stock to wet straw make a flavor cameo. Made from the milk of Laini Fondiller’s




Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                               SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS
               goats and the cows up the road at Butterworks Farm, whose rich Jersey milk contributes a buttery
               silken finish. Available in the late spring and early summer only.

               Ewe’s Blue Old Chatham Sheepherding Co (pasteurized sheeps’ milk. Old Chatham, NY)
               A Roquefort-style sheeps’ milk blue with a melt-in-your mouth buttery texture. Ewe’s Blue has just
               enough barnyardy flavor to remind you that the sheep are there, but finishes with a light caramel,
               salty-sweet flavor. Try a serving on your favorite slice of hearty bread with an unabashed dose of
               butter. Yowsa!

               Fil-A-Buster Lazy Lady Farm (raw cows’ milk. Westfield, VT)
               This cheese stinks. Really it does. On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the stinkiest, Fil-A-Buster usually
               clocks in at around an 11. But pay no heed to it’s gamey scent; just savor the flavor! The paste is
               soft and spreadable, and the sticky rind imparts a complex funk, somewhere in between butter,
               wet bark and pine needles scattered on a forest floor. Bound in birch bark to keep it from running
               all over the place… and it just barely does the job.

               Frere Fumant Three Corner Field Farm (raw sheep’s milk. Shushan, NY)
               Literally translated, this cheese is smokin’ brother! Frere Fumant is a raw sheeps’ milk cheese with
               a toothsome and snappy texture and an amazingly rich and sweet smoky flavor. Smoked over
               hickory by cloistered monks just down the road from Three Corner Field Farm. The intense,
               woodsy smokiness of the cheese calls to mind campfires, fall, and good old fashioned beef jerky.
               Who needs meat when you have cheese like this?!

               Fresh Chevre Beltane Farm (pasteurized goats’ milk. Lebanon, CT)
               What began as a tiny goat farm making a few cheeses to sell at farmers’ markets has bloomed into
               a full-fledged dairy, and become the second full-time job of Paul Trubey, a hospice worker. The
               mixed herd of Alpine, La Mancha, and Toggenburg goats provides top quality milk which is
               transformed into fresh chevre and other aged cheeses. Beltane’s fresh chevre is mild and
               spreadable, with a smooth, creamy mouthfeel and just the right amount of tang.

               Fresh Mozzarella Alleva Dairy (pasteurized cows’ milk. New York, NY)
               A beautiful fresh mozzarella from the oldest Italian cheese shop in the country! Established in
               1892, Alleva is now in its fourth generation of family ownership, with its roots stretching back to
               Benevento, Italy. Alleva mozzarella has a distinctive texture, soft and slightly squeaky against
               your teeth, and is so fresh that milk literally oozes out when you cut into it.

               Fresh Ricotta Alleva Dairy (pasteurized cows’ milk. New York, NY)
               If cheese could evaporate and turn into clouds, Alleva’s ricotta would surely make the
               transformation! It is light and fluffy, sweet and milky. Use it to cook with, or simply spread on fresh
               bread with a little bit of fresh herbs, olive oil, or preserves.

               Goat Milk Feta Lively Run Goat Dairy (pasteurized goats’ milk. Interlaken, NY)
               Behold! A delicious feta from New York’s Finger Lakes! Lively Run Goat Feta reaches a near
               perfect equilibrium with its firm and crumbly texture, light salt, and faint but pleasant goaty
               aftertaste. Enjoy this mild feta with watermelon and lime-cured onions for a refreshing summer
               lunch or dinner.




Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                              SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS
               Goat Tomme Twig Farm (raw goats’ milk. West Cornwall, VT)
               My reaction when I first tried this cheese was this: DEAR GOD. Yes, it was nearly the perfect
               cheese: distinctly goaty and slightly musky, but with some delicious herbal and floral notes issuing
               forth. The texture is sublime, thick and succulent, but with a melty mouth feel, like the great
               cheeses from the Pyrenees. Michael Lee, a painter turned cheese monger turned cheese maker is
               rocking and rolling and we’re all just getting fatter and happier. Yay.

               Goredawnzola Green Mountain Blue Cheese Company (raw cows’ milk. Highgate Center, VT)
               A thick and sweet blue from Dawn Boucher, whose family has been farming in Vermont for upwards
               of three centuries. Goredawnzola is based off of an Italian recipe, but has been tweaked by the
               Bouchers to have a firmer consistency and a flavor that brings to mind buttery sautéed mushrooms.
               This mild and balanced blue is cave aged for 60 to 90 days.

               Grafton Classic 2-Year Cheddar Grafton Village Cheese (raw cows’ milk. Grafton, VT)
               Grafton is the quintessential Vermont cheddar. Established in 1892, this, friends, is a cheese with
               staying power. They have a whole town up there named after the cheese plant, for pete’s sake.
               The two-year Classic is just the right amount of sharp and creamy. It tickles your tongue without
               the sting of some super sharp cheddars. Made from raw milk culled from family farms across
               southern Vermont.

               Grafton Clothbound Cheddar Grafton Village Cheese (raw cows’ milk. Grafton, VT)
               A truly rich and earthy cheddar with a vegetal finish reminiscent of green onions and garlic. The
               perfect savory segway to chilly weather and heartier appetites. Aged for 10 months.

               Grayson Meadow Creek Dairy (raw cows’ milk. Galax, VA)
               Rick and Helen Feete present Grayson! A delicious washed rind cheese in a delicious square
               format. The Feetes are traditionalists when it comes to raising their herd, only making cheese
               when the cows are on pasture, from April to October. The result: an intense, beefy cheese whose
               straw-colored paste reflects all the goodness of the Virginia mountain grass the cows are
               munching on. When extremely ripe, Grayson can achieve the consistency of buttercream frosting…
               an eating opportunity not to be missed!

               Harpersfield with Caraway Brovetto Dairy (pasteurized cows’ milk. Jefferson, NY)
               Harpersfield is a natural rind cows’ milk reminiscent of the famous Dutch cheese Leyden. Instead
               of retiring to Florida like most of their New York brethren, the Brovetto family began making
               cheese in 2001, after Corinne and Ronald finished up with their first careers. Harpersfield with
               Caraway is creamy and smooth. Lightly sharp with a hint of butterfat…the perfect chunk of cheese
               to down with a good cold beer.

               Harpersfield with Ommegang Beer Brovetto Dairy (pasteurized cows’ milk. Jefferson, NY)
               The Omegaang Brewery, located in Cooperstown, New York, is just a stone’s throw (or a short
               drive) from the Brovetto dairy. Soaked in beer, this cheese is definitely staying true to its German
               roots... Harpersfield was originally modeled after Tilsit, a famous cheese from Deutschland.
               Deliciously yeasty with tangy and lactic notes, this cheese is the perfect marriage of two nearly




Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                              SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS
               perfect fermented foods.

               Hartwell Ploughgate Creamery (pasteurized cows’ milk. South Albany, VT)
               A luscious, creamy little disc of cheese made from hearty Holstein milk. Cheese makers Marisa
               Mauro and Princess McClean craft this mold-ripened cheese in Albany, and then truck it on down
               the road to the cellars at Jasper Hill Farm, where it is aged in their humid and cool cheese caves.
               Hartwell, named for a local pond, is everything you want a bloomy rind cheese to be, creamy, salty,
               with just a touch of lactic tang. Aged for 4 to 6 weeks.

               Hooligan Cato Corner Farm (raw cows’ milk. Colchester, CT)
               Hooligan was named thus because it was a tricky cheese to get the hang of making. Kind of like
               caring for young children, if these wheels of raw cows’ milk cheese are not attended to constantly
               and washed with a saltwater brine a few times weekly, they simply won’t turn out. (Well, I guess
               with kids the washing part is more of a personal choice…) Mark Gillman certainly has his recipe
               down pat now, turning out an odoriferous cheese that is supple, creamy, and redolent of wine and
               fermented fruit.

               Humble Pie Woodcock Farm (pasteurized cows’ milk. Weston, VT)
               This cheese actually arrived on the doorstep of the shop bearing the moniker ‘Something New.’
               (i.e. that’s what was written on the invoice... such and such pounds of ‘Something New’) And
               though I delighted in that name, I was informed on a quick phone call to the farm that the cheese
               did in fact have a tentative name, and that Humble Pie was it. Humble Pie, a common American-
               ism that seems to be especially appropriate in this day and age, actually evolved from a thing
               called Umble Pie, which was a pastry filled with different kinds of offal. Yum. We’ve come a long
               way from Umble with this tangy, tasty, and yes, a tad bit beefy cheese. The rind is washed ever so
               slightly with a b-linens-laced brine and takes on a tawny, orangey glow after just a few weeks in
               the cellar. The paste is smooth, creamy, and even, like a well-aged Robiola, and the flavor parries
               between butter, tart soured cream, and toasted hazelnuts.

               Julianna Capriole (raw goats’ milk. Greenville, IN)
               Squidgy and cakey and wonderful is this cheese! Made from raw goats’ milk and aged for 8-10
               weeks, Juliana calls to mind classic Corsican cheeses crusted with herbs. The freshly made cheese
               is coated with fresh rosemary, and over the course of its maturation a fluffy, light, bloomy rind
               forms, creating a quilt of mushroomy flavor pierced with aromatic piney notes. The muskiness of
               the goat milk is not to be denied, but the overriding flavor is sweet and milky.

               Kunik Nettle Meadow Farm (pasteurized goats’ milk with Jersey cream. Warrensburg, NY)
               Kunik is dreamy mold-ripened cheese made from a mix of goats’ milk and fresh Jersey cream. It
               ranges from earthy, grassy and slightly firm to supple and unctuous and pungent. Kunik is
               delightful at any state of ripeness, and deserves a much-coveted place in your belly.

               La Petite Tomme Lazy Lady Farm (pasteurized goats’ milk. Westfield, VT)
               A scrumptious little morsel of creamy, brie-like goat cheese with a light bloomy rind. These little
               tommes are ideal summer fare… smooth, rich, and silky in texture with a not-so-bashful goaty
               tang.




Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                               SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS


               La Roche Lazy Lady Farm (pasteurized goats’ milk. Westfield, VT)
               In French, La Roche means the rock. Well, if I ever found myself on a mountainside littered with La
               Roches, they would have to roll me back down. This bell-shaped goat cheese is absolutely dreamy,
               with a paste that texturally evokes such wonders as whipped cream, freshly fallen snow, and
               traditional fresh chevre. It is delicate, light, and has a certain beguiling floral goaty flavor that for
               me, is the cat’s pajamas.

               Lake’s Edge Blue Ledge Farm (pasteurized goats’ milk. Salisbury, VT)
               Named for the shore of the great lake Champlain, which straddles the border between Vermont
               and New York. Lake’s Edge is a musky and zippy little number with a pencil-thin wisp of vegetable
               ash running through the center. The paste is chalky and concentrated, but has a magnificent melt
               in your mouth quality that brings just the right amount of tang. Made from the milk of Blue Ledge
               Farm’s herd of goats and one neighboring herd in the Champlain Valley. The delicate bloomy rind
               envelops the cheese over its six week ripening period.

               Landaff Erb Family Farm (raw cows’ milk. Landaff, NH)
               Landaff is a real tart... Just the way we like our cheeses. Made from raw Holstein milk and bound
               in cloth, Landaff has the pucker and twang to rival some of the finest cheeses from the British
               Isles. Our first cheese from New Hampshire takes its name from the town where it is made. The
               Erb family got out of the commodity milk game and into the artisanal cheese game after meeting
               up with the brothers Kehler up at Jasper Hill Farm. Now Landaff is aged for 5-7 months in the
               Cellars at Jasper Hill, tended and coddled by the cheese elves of Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom.

               Les Pyramides Lazy Lady Farm (pasteurized goats’ milk. Westfield, VT)
               A beautiful snowy white pyramid of bright and tangy goat cheese. The light coral-like mold
               encrusting Les Pyramides adds a tart and creamy contrast to the interior, which remains chalky
               and dense. A perfect and elegant cheese to serve with a crispy white wine or a piece of ripe juicy
               fruit.

               Maple Smoked Gouda Taylor Farm (raw cows’ milk. Londonderry, VT)
               This mild and creamy cheese is a delight to snack on. The sweetness and rustic smoke flavors
               evoke slices of simmering and yummy bacon! Made by Jonathan and Kate Wright, Taylor Farm
               Maple Smoked Gouda is the product of totally natural and sustainable farming practices. The cows
               are grazed rotationally, and their land is fertilized using completely natural methods, meaning you
               are putting some of that rugged Vermont goodness right back into your tummy.

               Magic Mountain Woodcock Farm (raw sheeps’ milk. Weston, VT)
               Magic Mountain hails from Vermont and is crafted from the milk of Mark and Gari Fischer’s East
               Fresian sheep. It is an aged, Alpine-style sheep’s milk cheese, made in large wheels typical of the
               famous Alpine cheeses such as Gruyere and Beaufort. Magic Mountain is aged for over 10 months
               and is dense and smooth, with a subtle nutty flavor.

               Manchester Consider Bardwell Farm (raw goats’ milk. West Pawlet, VT)
               Consider Bardwell Farm is the site of the first cheese making coop in Vermont, dating back to 1864.
               The stream next to the farm used to provide power for the cheese house and also water for the
               cheese making. Manchester, though a recent innovation (it was just invented this year!) is an
               amazingly tasty cheese, crafted from the milk of Angela Miller’s Oberhaasli goats. The aroma is




Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                              SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS
               that of fresh cut grass and asparagus stalks, and the flavor is deeply mineral and sweet.

               Maytag Blue Maytag Dairy (raw cows’ milk. Newton, IA)
               Mr. Maytag, the appliance mogul, discovered the joys of noble European blues, namely Roquefort,
               during a trip to Europe in the early 1900’s. When he got back to Iowa, he sought to replicate this
               delicious cheese, alla Americana. Taking a scientific approach, he teamed up with Iowa State
               University and created Maytag Blue, a true American original. Still made from raw milk entirely by
               hand, this cheese is fruity, buttermilky and packs a tangy punch. Great for burgers… isn’t it time
               you had a barbeque?

               Mecox Sunrise Mecox Bay Dairy (raw cows’ milk. Bridgehampton, NY)
               A gorgeous washed-rind cheese that looks to some like a giant oatmeal cookie. It only we could
               eat it that way… t’would be the tastiest cookie in the world! Nutty and pungent, Mecox Sunrise has
               a sweet toasted brown butter taste. The craggy rind duly illustrates the cheese’s name; it is
               colored all kinds of sunrise, from orange to pink to golden ochre.

               Menuet Dancing Cow Farm (raw cows’ milk. Bridpot, VT)
               An aged and nutty cows’ milk cheese from the Jersey herd at Dancing Cow Farm. The firm paste
               turns creamy on the palate, leaving a taste of grass and browned butter. Earthy, hearty and a bit
               mossy, with hints of cheddary sharpness.

               Mixed Emotions Lazy Lady Farm (pasteurized goat milk and cow cream. Westfield, VT)
               A funky, briny washed-rind cheese with a sweet burst of Jersey cream infused into it to tame the
               rustic goaty flavor and render the texture butter-like. Early spring goats’ milk is rich enough on its
               own, as the goats begin their lactation cycle and are still spending some of their time in the barn
               (ie not constantly out on pasture) Laini Fondiller decided to up the richness ante by adding some
               cow cream (hence the name, Mixed Emotions) from Butterworks Farm, a neighboring organic dairy
               farm. The result is a silky and almost dessert-like texture with a hint of the earthy, mushroomy,
               slightly mineral flavor associated with washed-rind cheeses.

               Mont St. Francis Capriole (raw goats’ milk. Greenville, IN)
               Judy Schad just may be the fairy godmother of American farmstead goat cheese. She’s been at it
               since the eighties, and her repertoire runs the gamut from fresh and creamy to funky and one-of-
               a-kind. Mont St. Francis is aged for 2 to 3 months at Capriole, one of America’s original farmstead
               goat dairies located in the hills of southern Indiana. For any of you city folks who’ve been craving
               a romp through farm country, here’s your chance! This raw milk, washed-rind cheese is the perfect
               balance of sweet goaty goodness and brash pungent barnyard.

               Olga Seal Cove Farm (raw goat and cows’ milk. Lamoine, ME)
               Made from a mix of goats’ milk from Barbara Brooks’ own herd and organic cows’ milk from a
               neighboring farm, this Olga hits you with a one two punch of flavor, starting with a bright and
               buttery blast from the cows’ milk followed by the mellow musky flavor of late fall goats’ milk. The
               aging of this washed-rind cheese gives it a firm and dignified paste, with a lingering caramel-toned
               sweetness on the finish.




Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                                SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS

               Ouray Sprout Creek Farm (raw cows’ milk. Poughkeepsie, NY)
               One bite and this cheese will leave you exclaiming OO-ray! A one of a kind cheese with a flavor that
               is a hybrid of Cheddar and Parmesan with perhaps a little bit of English Cheshire thrown in the mix
               to make things interesting. It is bright and tart with a flaky and somewhat granular texture.
               Accented with sharp and lactic notes and rustic mossy undertones which evoke the damp cellars
               in which it is aged.

               Parmigiano Reggiano (raw cows’ milk. Emilia-Romagna, Italy)
               What?! I thought this was an all-American cheese shop! Well, it is. But even this American has to
               admit that no one does Parmesan like the Italians. Wisconsonites may try, but inevitably fall short.
               I had to make a concession for this one. It’s your classic Parmigiano Reggiano, aged for a minimum
               of 14 months and made from skimmed cows’ milk from the DOC designated region of production.

               Pawlet Consider Bardwell Farm (raw cows’ milk. West Pawlet, VT)
               An alpine style cheese that is dimpled with tiny holes and rivulets. The golden, buttery paste is
               simple, balanced, and dignified with a deep nutty flavor. The finish is something to marvel at,
               leaving a bright tangy streak of flavor on the palate after the more subdued and gentle primary
               elements of the cheese give way. Pawlet is aged for 5 to 6 months.

               Pearl Seal Cove Farm (pasteurized goat and cows’ milk. Lamoine, ME)
               A delighful little droplet of creamy and decadent cheese. These Pearls are young, tangy and
               absolutely delicious, from their near-iridescent rinds down to their fluffy and near-spreadable
               cores. This goat and cow mix proves to be a match made in heaven... the buttery sweetness of the
               cows’ milk is tempered by the slightly piney musk of the goats’ milk.

               Piper’s Pyramid Capriole (pasteurized goats’ milk. Greenville, IN)
               A luscious, fluffy pyramid of pure fresh chevre dusted with a touch of paprika. The clean, tangy
               flavor of the goats’ milk gets a subtle little kick in the pants from the spice, leaving a slightly sweet,
               hot, and smokey finish.

               Pleasant Ridge Reserve Uplands Cheese Co. (raw cows’ milk. Dodgeville, WI)
               When Mike and Carol Gingrich retired, they chose the life that most of us working stiffs can only
               dream of: cheese maker. Wait, what??!? Instead of moving to Florida, or buying an RV, Mike and
               Carol bought a farm in Wisconsin and started making Pleasant Ridge Reserve, a rich and hearty
               Alpine-style cow’s milk cheese with a stately coffee brown rind. Pleasant Ridge is only made 10
               weeks out of the year when the cows are out on pasture, and is a perfect expression of the low
               grassy valleys of southern Wisconsin in the summer time.

               Salvatore Ricotta Salvatore Brooklyn (pasteurized cows’ milk. Brooklyn, NY)
               This cheese began as a labor of love after Betsy Devine and Rachel Marks encountered the ricotta
               of one Tuscan elder gent called Salvatore whilst traveling in Tuscany. They took time out of their
               vacation to learn from the master and brought their new craft home to Brooklyn. After many
               trials (and even a few errors) they managed to tame their wild American curds into a creamy and
               delectable cheese. Salvatore is dense, moreso than regular ricotta, because it is strained in
               cheesecloth after being made. Rich, yet somehow light in the end, with a lingering lemony zest.
               Made from Hudson Valley Fresh milk, a local dairy cooperative dedicated to sustainable farming.




Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                             SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS

               Salvatore Smokey Ricotta Salvatore Brooklyn (pasteurized cows’ milk. Brooklyn, NY)
               Who knew cheese could taste like a toasted marshmallow? It may sound strange, but Salvatore’s
               Smokey Ricotta is absolutely sublime. The freshly made cheese is hung in a cheese cloth and cold
               smoked over cherry wood, infusing it with a rich and robust, butter broiled intensity that is
               unrivalled in this cheesemonger’s eyes. Use it to top crostini, dollop atop pasta, or with fresh
               tomatoes for a sinfully rich summer salad.

               Seal Cove Pyramid Seal Cove Farm (pasteurized goats’ milk. Lamoine, ME)
               Delicate fresh goats’ milk cheese coated with kohl-black vegetable ash. The ash is mixed with a
               touch of sea salt, giving a little kick to an otherwise mellow and tart cheese. The paste is quite
               chalky and dense, distinctly goaty, but very balanced.

               Seal Cove Tomme Seal Cove Farm (pasteurized goat and cows’ milk. Lamoine, ME)
               We could eat a stack of these Tommes quicker than we could scarf a box of Girl Scout cookies!
               Such is the mysterious power of this tiny, but tasty cheese. A small, dry disc of rather terse and
               rigid curd with an unexpected kick of salty, sweaty, citrus fruit flavor. Cheese maker Barbara
               Brooks learned to make this cheese while traveling in Provence, where these little tommes
               proliferate. Go on, grab a whole handful, who said goat cheese can’t be eaten like cookies?

               Sigit Mecox Bay Dairy (raw cows’ milk. Bridgehampton, NY)
               A super-aged golden Gruyere-esque cheese from way out East on Long Island. Toasty, nutty, and
               buttered popcorn-y, with a dense and smooth paste that is chock full of those crunchy crystals we
               all love so much. Aged for 18 months in the caves at Mecox Bay Dairy.

               Shaker Blue Old Chatham Sheepherding Co. (raw sheeps’ milk. Chatham, NY)
               An unbelievably succulent raw sheeps’ milk blue made in a Roquefort style. Shaker Blue is
               incredibly creamy, with a melt-in-your-mouth consistency backed up by a fruity, sweet, and black
               pepper bite. A true testament to the art of American farmstead cheese making, this blue is just as
               good as anything made across the pond.

               Shushan Snow Three Corner Field Farm (pasteurized sheeps’ milk. Shushan, NY)
               Shushan Snow is a mold-ripened sheeps’ milk cheese that is dual-textured: creamy and unctuous
               on the outside, and more chalky and fluffy on the inside. It is mild mannered and brie-like, with
               hints of mushrooms and butter in the paste.

               Sozzled Pearl Seal Cove Farm (pasteurized goat and cows’ milk. Lamoine, ME)
               These dainty Pearls have been out boozing! Sent ‘green’ from Seal Cove Farm, meaning they are
               rindless and fresh as can be, the Pearls spend a few days drying in the cave at Saxelby
               Cheesemongers before being wrapped in bourbon-soaked grape leaves. The heady infusion of
               moonshine renders these creamy little cheeses redolent with a touch of sweet caramel spice. This
               is what happens when innocent little cheeses from Maine come to the big city…




Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                              SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS

               Spring Brook Tarentaise Spring Brook Farm (raw cows’ milk. Reading, VT)
               A gorgeous, Beaufort-style cheese that is based on the recipe perfected by John and Janine
               Putnam of Thistle Hill Farm. Spring Brook and Thistle Hill Farm have forged a unique partnership
               in the American cheese scape, making the same cheese on two different patches of farmland.
               This partnership is similar to the Alpine tradition, where cheese makers within a certain area all
               make the same style of cheese. Made from rich, raw cows’ milk, and cultured every day the old
               fashioned way (with a bit of the whey left over from the previous days cheese making) Tarentaise
               is a complex and full-flavored wheel of cheese. Aged for about 7 months, the texture is smooth
               and rich, with deep, nutty, swissy flavors abounding. Hints of wet grass and sweet toasted
               hazelnuts accent the flavor profile.

               Square Cheese Twig Farm (raw goats’ milk. West Cornwall, VT)
               An ugly duckling of a raw goats’ milk cheese with a velveteen gray rind from the cellars at Twig
               Farm. Though it looks like a flagstone when fully mature, Square Cheese conceals a tasty secret.
               Just crack the rind to discover a semi-firm cheese that is savory and rustic with twinges of green
               onions and damp earth. A truly beautiful cheese hand formed in a cheesecloth and tied up with a
               knot to leave a distinctive belly button shaped depression in the center of each wheel.

               Sweet Emotions Lazy Lady Farm (pasteurized goats’ milk and cows’ cream)
               When Steven Tyler wrote the song, this cheese wasn’t yet a gleam in cheese maker Laini Fondiller’s
               eye. But if he tasted it today, he might be willing to re-work some of the lyrics to be more cheese-
               centric. A small disc of absolutely sinful cheese, with an interior the texture of mousse-like buttery
               silk. Sweet Emotions is made from the milk of Laini’s goats, with the added shot (if we were
               talking espresso here, it’d be a big one!) of cream from Butterworks Farm, one of Vermont’s most
               lauded organic dairies.

               Tarentaise Thistle Hill Farm (raw cows’ milk. North Pomfret, VT)
               This superb, aged cows’ milk cheese is just about as farmstead as you can get. Every task you
               could think of, from making hay to raising and tending the herd, to cheese production and affinage,
               happens right on the farm. Tarentaise is unique in that the starter culture, much like a good
               sourdough bread, is created by saving a bit of whey from the previous day’s cheese making,
               guaranteeing a unique flavor profile and chemistry. The result is a nutty and elegant cheese, with
               a fruity sharpness that sneaks up on you and leaves you with a long finish on the palate.

               Timberdoodle Woodcock Farm (raw cow and sheeps’ milk. Weston, VT)
               Long before there were Labradoodles, there were Timberdoodles! (Just another way of saying
               woodcock.) This cheese is luscious and dense, with a creamy, peanut-buttery paste that will drive
               you bananas. Timberdoodle is washed with brine as it ages, giving it that special pungent funk that
               we all know and love. Though Timberdoodle is made year-round, the composition of the cheese
               changes as different milks come in and out of season. During the summer months, it is made from
               pure sheeps’ milk, while in the late fall it switches to a combination of sheep and cows’ milk.
               Throughout the winter when all the sheep are dry (i.e. pregnant and not producing milk), it is made
               with pure cows’ milk.




Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                               SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS

               Tomme de Lay Lazy Lady Farm (raw goats’ milk. Westfield, VT)
               Tomme de Lay is a magnificent cheese that pokes fun at one of our country’s most infamous
               politicians. This cheese was first called Dandy’s Lyin’, due to the fact that the rind is lightly
               speckled with dandelion greens and summer savory. During a fit of creativity during one evening’s
               milking (most probably spurred by listening to NPR), Laini decided to change the name, and
               Tomme de Lay was born. An elegant washed rind cheese with a dense chalky center surrounded
               by a creamy outer layer. Tomme de Lay has hints of grass, spongy mushrooms, and fresh cream
               with deep gamey and musky notes to round it out.

               True Blue Woodcock Farm (raw cows’ milk. Weston, VT)
               True blue is just as dreamy as it sounds… made in the style of a traditional gorgonzola, but with a
               rich and rustic quality that makes it an entity unto itself. The veining is sparse but intense,
               rendering a cheese that is milky, creamy, and almost sweet with brash bursts of peppery fruity
               blue. Made only in the wintertime when the sheep at Woodcock farm are off duty!

               Twig Wheel Twig Farm (raw goat and cows’ milk. West Cornwall, VT)
               This washed rind, mixed milk cheese really shines! Aged for about three months, soft wheel is
               supple and creamy, with a fruity and vibrant flavor. The semi-firm paste is delicious, well-rounded,
               and packed with the diverse vegetal flavors present as a result of the animals’ diet of brambles,
               shrubs, and pasture.

               Valencay Lazy Lady Farm (pasteurized goat’s milk. Westfield, VT)
               A riff on the French cheese of the same name, Valencay is a truncated pyramid of fresh goats’
               cheese dusted with vegetable ash. In France, the story goes that Valencay was originally a pyramid
               shaped cheese, but after Napoleon lost his military hold on Egypt, the cheese makers decided to
               lob off the top, ere the memory of territories lost would prove too painful to recall. Laini’s version
               is a bit smaller than it’s French cousin, but is every bit as delicious.

               Vermont Ayr Crawford Family Farm (raw cows’ milk. Whiting, VT)
               A semi-firm chunk of cheese that calls out to be munched on, no matter what the occasion. Taking
               its name from the Crawfords’ handsome herd of Ayrshire cows, Vermont Ayr is light and swissy,
               with an undeniably fruity quality. There’s ample butterfat in this cheese, rendering the paste rich
               and succulent, especially when served at room temperature. The rind is rustic and basementy
               (perhaps due to the fact that it is aged in the cellars at Jasper Hill Farm) with a mineral zing that’ll
               make you pucker just a bit. Aged for five months.

               Vermont Shepherd Major Farm (raw sheeps’ milk. Putney, VT)
               A deliciously nutty and slightly sweet aged sheeps’ milk cheese from the artisanal cheese pioneers
               at Major Farm. Back in the 90’s, when milking sheep seemed to be just about the craziest thing
               you could do, David and Cindy Major started making Vermont Shepherd. The result of a trip to the
               Pyrenees region of France, Vermont Shepherd is a rustic-rinded, smooth sheeps’ milk cheese, like
               those crafted by French shepherds for hundreds of years. The flavor is balanced and elegant, with
               an unparalleled richness of grassy, sheepy taste.

               Vivace Cato Corner Farm (raw cows’ milk. Colchester, CT)
               Vivace is a young raw cows’ milk cheese reminiscent of provolone. Sprightly and sharp with
               beautiful eyes (you know, like the Swiss cheese kind of eyes) which occur naturally as gases are
               produced within the cheese as it is aging. It has a squeaky and firm texture and a bright golden
               paste that shows off the herds’ rich diet of pasture.



Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com
                                              SUMMER ’09 SELECTIONS

               Weston Wheel Woodcock Farm (raw sheeps’ milk. Weston, VT)
               Weston Wheel is one of the best sheeps’ milk cheeses in the country. It is nutty and buttery, and
               has the smooth semi-firm texture of a Gruyere. Floral and fruity flavors come up throughout the
               paste of the cheese, ranging from Concord grapes to juicy fermented fruit. The American Cheese
               Society awarded it first prize for sheeps’ milk cheese in 2003.

               Weybridge Scholten Family Farm (pasteurized cows’ milk. Weybridge, VT)
               Weybridge is a brand spankin’ new cheese, aged in the Cellars at Jasper Hill Farm. This rich and
               buttery cheese is made from the milk of Dutch Belted cows, a traditional breed of dairy cow
               making a comeback in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom. Weybridge is quite light and moist for a
               bloomy rind cheese, evoking the tang of rich crème fraiche. The finish is delicately barnyardy (a
               paradox if ever there was one) and slightly tart.

               Willoughby Ploughgate Creamery (pasteurized cows’ milk. South Albany, VT)
               A washed-rind wonder from the enterprising young gals at Ploughgate Creamery. Made from milk
               sourced from two local old time farmers, this cheese is lovingly crafted in 50 gallon batches and
               washed with a locally produced mead. The cheese is bright and pungent, with honey and floral
               notes wafting throughout. It is aged in the Cellars at Jasper Hill farm for 4 to 6 weeks.

               Winnemere Jasper Hill Farm (raw cows’ milk. Greensboro, VT)
               Winnemere is made from the winter milk of Mateo and Andy Kehler’s herd of Ayrshire cows up at
               Jasper Hill Farm. During the winter months, the butterfat in the milk skyrockets, due to the fact
               that the cows are mostly in the barn, being protected from the harsh elements of the northeast
               kingdom of Vermont. These conditions are perfect for making Winnemere, a washed-rind cheese
               that is reminiscent of the famous French Vacherin Mont D’Or. In the first few weeks of its life,
               Winnemere is washed with a traditional saltwater brine, and then later is washed with a high
               octane, caramelly Belgian-style beer. It sports a spruce bark girdle to hold all that creaminess in,
               as well as to augment the cheese’s natural woodsy, pungent and smoky aromatics.




Essex St Market | F or JMZ to Delancey | mon - sat 9-7 | sun - closed | ph 212.228.8204 | info@saxelbycheese.com

								
To top