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									                                                                                               the guide.

Quality restaurants, elegant wines and old-fashioned country hospitality make the
              New South Wales town of Orange a great destination for food lovers.
                                              WORDS SARAH NICHOLSON PHOTOGRAPHY EMMA REILLY

                               range is an everchanging             Enthusiastic locals delight in showcasing
                               landscape. Right now, the          the best the region has to offer on their
                               countryside is on fire with reds,   varied restaurant menus, at a burgeoning
                               yellows and oranges. In a          farmers’ market, and with lively annual
                               couple of months, it’ll be all     food and wine events.
                    about snow, open fires and red wine.             The area produces excellent cool-climate
                    Blossoms will appear in spring, then          wines, so you’ll want to set aside plenty of
                    summer will see laden fruit trees and         time for wine tasting... and space in the
                    grapevines. But these four distinct seasons   boot. A winery visit can be a personal affair,
                    are not the only reason why Orange,           as the owners and winemakers often man
                    three-and-a-half hours’ drive west of         the cellar doors, and their zeal for the wines
                    Sydney, is such a rewarding spot to visit.    makes them taste even better.

                                                                                                  delicious. 57
                                                                                                                             Previous page: the view from
                                                                                                                             Sister’s Rock Restaurant at the
                                                                                                                             Borrodell cellar door. Clockwise
                                                                                                                             from far left: the smart interior
                                                                                                                             of Lolli Redini; chocolate and
                                                                                                                             hazelnut torte with candied
                                                                                                                             oranges and chocolate sorbet
                                                                                                                             from Selkirks; outdoor dining
                                                                                                                             at Union Bank; the grounds of
                                                                                                                             the Old Convent; chef Michael
                                                                                                                             Manners of Selkirks is one of the
                                                                                                                             founders of the local food scene.

WHERE TO EAT                                         food is so highly regarded. The generous            Tonic, 30 Victoria St, Millthorpe,
Selkirks, 179 Anson St, Orange,                      dishes she creates with regional produce are        tel: (02) 6366 3811.
tel: (02) 6361 1179.                                 matched by the equally brilliant floor service.      In the charming historic village of Millthorpe,
The stalwart of the Orange restaurant scene,         The stylish restaurant, housed in a federation      22km from Orange, is Tony Worland’s Tonic.
Selkirks is run by chef Michael Manners and          brick cottage, has a striking red banquette         After spending time in the kitchens of Sydney’s
his wife Josephine Jagger-Manners. They have         loaded with cushions running down one wall          Aria, as well as local restaurants Selkirks and
been serving superb contemporary Australian          and interesting artwork adorning the walls.         Lolli Redini, Tony went out on his own and
food in the relaxed setting of a country house       Belgravia at Union Bank, cnr Sale &                 garnered his own Chef’s Hat award. The
for nine years, and have supported many local        Byng Sts, Orange, tel: (02) 6361 4441.              menu has lots in the way of comforting
producers along the way. The fabulous                Right next door, in a heritage-listed building,     country-style dishes, such as delicious roasted
Mandagery Creek Venison is always on the             Simonn Hawke has also designed the menu             loin of lamb with crushed kipfler potatoes,
menu and might be served with sweet onions           for the hot new place in town. Everyone’s           olives, tomato, and a basil and rosemary jus.
and a date-and-almond pilaf. The Baldwins’           buzzing about Union Bank, which is a wine           Also memorable are the rich, earthy flavours
Fourjay Farms hazelnuts, another of Michael’s        and tapas bar, as well as the cellar door for       in the mushroom and leek ravioli in mushroom
favourite local products, feature in a chocolate     Belgravia Wines (also see Cellar Doors &            broth. The indulgent crispy pork belly is hard
torte served with candied oranges and                Bars). The all-day menu features an antipasto       to go past, too. Dishes vary according to what’s
chocolate sorbet. Charcuterie is a specialty,        plate that offers a good selection of the small     good on the day – Tony says Millthorpe is the
which you can enjoy as a plate of patés,             dishes on offer, including hummus and               kind of place where locals may turn up with a
rillettes, terrines and sausages. The wine list is   roasted capsicum tarts, pastizzi and spicy          glut of fresh produce from their yard, which
also a showcase of what Orange does well,            Italian sausage. Simonn’s sister, Georgie           will then appear on the menu that night.
and local wines by the glass are suggested           Hawke, designed the slick space, where you          Provvista, 129 Summer St, Orange,
with every dish on the menu.                         can enjoy a glass of wine perched on a round        tel: (02) 6361 2129.
Lolli Redini, 48 Sale St, Orange,                    red ottoman beside an open fire, sit at long         This casual restaurant has a good range of
tel: (02) 6361 7748.                                 communal tables with high stools, or dine           woodfired pizzas, with traditional offerings
Savour the incredible flavours of piquillo            alfresco in the leafy courtyard. Wednesday is       such as Napoli, and vegetarian options like
pimientos stuffed with brandade, shredded            movie night, there’s live music on Fridays,         kumara with caramelised onion, gorgonzola,
sorrel, king prawns and sugo, and you’ll see         and each Sunday sees a two-course set menu          rosemary and pine nuts. Plus, there are pastas,
why owner and chef Simonn Hawke’s modern             from a different Italian region on offer for $25.   and daily specials including veal and fish.

58 delicious.
the guide.



                                                                                                                                           21. 25.
                                                                                                                                      19. 22.
                                                     5.                                                                                              26.
                                                                            10.                                           18.
                                 3.                                               13.

                                                            8.    12.

WHERE TO EAT           20. Belgravia at
8. La Colline              Union Bank
9. Sister’s Rock       26. Hotel Canobolas
    Restaurant                                                                                                                              16.
12. Lakeside Café      WHERE TO SHOP
    & Cellar           1. Norland Fig
15. The Schoolhouse        Orchard                               Mod French, authentic Italian, flavoursome tapas or
16. Tonic
                       4. Hillside Orchard                       generous country-style food – Orange has it all on offer.
                       9. Borrodell on
17. Saplings               the Mt
19. Lavendilli-Blue    18. M & J’s Butchery                      Saplings, Orange Botanic Gardens,                    Winery restaurants
20. Belgravia at                                                 Orange, tel: (02) 6369 1666.                         The Schoolhouse Restaurant,
                       20. Hawkes General
    Union Bank
                           Store                                 If you have kids in tow, you may well find            Mayfield Vineyard, Icely Rd, Orange,
20. Hawkes General
                       22. Bakehouse on                          yourself at this small cafe beside the adventure     tel: (02) 6365 9295.
                           Wentworth                             playground. Grab a takeaway coffee or sit            The captivating setting of Mayfield Vineyard
20. Lolli Redini
                       24. Orange Region
21. Provvista                                                    down for a BLT, Simmone Logue quiche, or             makes it worth the trip alone – the vines run
                           Farmers Market
23. Selkirks                                                     one of the sweet options, which include              down to meet the lake and geese glide on the
                       25. The Essential
                           Ingredient                            Manna from Heaven goodies.                           water, but the inside is just as delightful. The
                                                                    For central coffee spots, Lavendilli-Blue (41     turn-of-the-century schoolhouse has recently
2. Canobolas-Smith
                       WHERE TO STAY                             Sale St, Orange, tel: (02) 6361 9408), essentially   been given a chic makeover, with warm
                                                                                                                                                                         ILLUSTRATION: PRISCILLA NIELSEN

3. Cargo Road          5. Old Convent                            a cute body-care shop, serves Fairtrade coffee       neutral tones on the walls and furniture,
    Winery             9. Borrodell on                           and house-made cakes. (A masseuse works              restored original floorboards and lots of
6. Orange Mountain         the Mt
                                                                 here, in case you have any lingering city            natural light. Executive chef Paul Wilderbeek,
    Wines              11. Black Sheep Inn
                                                                 stress.) And just across Summer Street is            who most recently owned the local Proven
7. Philip Shaw         13. Arancia Bed &
10. Bloodwood              Breakfast                             Hawkes General Store (46 Sale St, Orange,            Bakery, has worked in Australian kitchens
    Wines              14. Belgravia Cottage                     tel: (02) 6362 5851), where you can enjoy Caffè      for the past 26 years. He aims to create wine-
15. Mayfield Vineyard   16. Hockey’s                              Bianchi coffee with biscuits and friands.            friendly food, and his classical French training
                                                                                                                                       the guide.

                                                                                       Clockwise from this picture: beautiful
                                                                                       countryside surrounds Orange; the newly
                                                                                       revamped Schoolhouse Restaurant;
                                                                                       chef Tony Worland of Tonic in Millthorpe;
                                                                                       Tony’s delicious rabbit pie with sweet potato
                                                                                       puree, buttered spinach and red wine jus.

is reflected in the flavours of his dishes. He’s       a restaurant at their cellar door. Think crumbed    shiraz. The bar’s wine list is supplemented
known for braised duck and it will appear            veal with gorgonzola sauce and zucchini, and        with a few other Australian wines chosen by
on each new menu with a seasonal sauce.              asparagus with lemon, oil and pepper served         wine expert and Orange local Peter Bourne,
(Also see Cellar Doors & Bars.)                      with fresh bread. Borrodell wines are served,       who also runs wine-appreciation classes here.
La Colline, Lake Canobolas Rd, Orange,               of course, including interesting drops such as      Mayfield Vineyard, Icely Rd, Orange,
tel: (02) 6365 3275.                                 méthode champenoise and gewürztraminer.             tel: (02) 6365 9295.
A lot of care goes into the dishes at La Colline.       And on the way back down this road, the          At one of the newest cellar doors in Orange,
Aline Prudhomme, who owns the restaurant             Lakeside Café & Cellar (tel: (02) 6365 3456) sits   the wines include a crisp sav blanc, sangiovese,
with her husband Philippe, works with chef           in a pretty location beside Lake Canobolas.         a cab-merlot blend and hand-picked riesling
Bernadette McGilchrist and her young team            This is also the Burke & Hills cellar door.         from the Icely Rd range. The reserve label,
to design a menu of satisfying lunches with a                                                            Mayfield Vineyard, offers a pinot noir and
French skew. Flavoursome red-wine-braised            CELLAR DOORS & BARS                                 méthode champenoise with a delicate blush.
rabbit is cleverly paired with a slice of chestnut   Orange produces great cool-climate wines,           (Also see Where to Eat.)
and eschalot tart, and the blackboard specials,      including some quality chardonnay, sauvignon        Cargo Road Winery, Cargo Rd, Orange,
such as creme caramel, ensure morning and            blanc, cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir.           tel: (02) 6365 6100.
afternoon tea are a treat. It’s also the cellar      There are lots of great wineries in the area, but   This cellar door is full of art and personality.
door, so you can taste La Colline wines here.        the highlights that follow are open at least one    A cafe overlooking the vines operates on the
Sister’s Rock Restaurant,                            day a weekend. Many wineries are only open          weekend, serving up simple food and Toby’s
Borrodell on the Mt, Lake Canobolas Rd,              by appointment, but don’t let that put you off,     Estate coffee. Winemaker James Sweetapple’s
Orange, tel: (02) 6365 3128.                         as that’s the beauty of Orange – you get to         passion is a dry-style gewürztraminer, and
Drive a little further up the road to Sister’s       meet the owners and winemakers, the people          be sure to try the rich-flavoured zinfandel, a
Rock Restaurant and you’ll be rewarded with          who are most passionate about the wine.             more unusual red wine for Australia.
magnificent views of the countryside, as well         Belgravia at Union Bank (see Where to Eat).         Canobolas-Smith Wines, Cargo Rd, Orange,
as authentic Italian fare. Two talented cooks        This centrally located cellar door, which           tel: (02) 6365 6113.
from Rome, Patrizia Fiorini and Marina               doubles as a wine and tapas bar, offers tastings    One of the area’s first vineyards, this winery is
Fedelli, once visited the property (see Where        until 5pm. The Union Bank label is great            now up to its 18th vintage. You’ll be in Justin
to Stay) and didn’t want to leave, so owners         value, while the Belgravia range offers a large     Byrne’s capable hands at the cellar door, and
Gaye Stuart-Nairne and Borry Gartrell started        choice, including good viognier and reserve         may get to meet winemaker Murray Smith if

                                                                                                                                          delicious. 61
                                                                                                                        Clockwise from far left: The
                                                                                                                        Schoolhouse Restaurant has
                                                                                                                        views of Mayfield Vineyard;
                                                                                                                        sampling fresh produce at
                                                                                                                        the Orange Region Farmers
                                                                                                                        Market; a taste of the tempting
                                                                                                                        local fare on offer at the
                                                                                                                        market; Belgravia at Union
                                                                                                                        Bank – a new cellar door and
                                                                                                                        tapas bar – is currently the
                                                                                                                        hottest place in town; an
                                                                                                                        antipasto plate is a great way
                                                                                                                        to sample the range of tapas.

he’s passing. They excel at chardonnay and         WHERE TO SHOP                                     duck and pheasant, five types of gluten-free
the premium red, Alchemy – a blend of cab          Orange Region Farmers Market, Orange              sausages, and snails farmed locally by Sonya
sav, cab franc and shiraz – is also a highlight.   Showground, Leeds Pde, tel: (02) 6362 0039,       Begg at Ross Hill Vineyard.
Orange Mountain Wines, cnr Forbes Rd &             www.orangefarmersmarket.org.au.                   Hillside Orchard, 1209 The Escort Way,
Radnedge Ln, Orange, tel: (02) 6365 2626.          The buzzing farmers’ market has about 50          Borenore, tel: (02) 6365 2247.
Owner/winemaker Terry Dolle specialises            stalls, including Waru Organic Farm (selling      Whatever the season, Hillside has lots to offer,
in viognier – and his big shiraz viognier,         seasonal vegies such as mizuna, sorrel and        including 18 varieties of apples, 15 types of
from the Manildra vineyard 50km away, is           cocktail tomatoes), Yuri’s Organic Produce        cherries, plus peaches, nectarines, raspberries,
definitely a highlight. He also makes apple         (with horseradish, salad leaves and 12 types of   blackberries... Local vegies are available, too.
and cherry liqueurs, and verjuice, and sells       basil) and Mandagery Creek Venison. A local       Norland Fig Orchard, Bradley Rd, Borenore,
local Abilene Grove olive oil. Terry’s wife,       chef or cook prepares dishes using seasonal       tel: (02) 6365 2225.
Julie, puts together platters of produce from      produce at the Chef’s Tasting Table, and also     From January to April you can pick up a tray
Bathurst and Orange farmers’ markets, too.         takes a kids’ cooking class. From 8.30am to       of figs from Warren Bradley, who has been
   Not open every weekend, but worth a             noon on the second Saturday of each month.        growing them for more than 25 years. “Handle
visit for serious wine lovers is Philip Shaw       Bakehouse on Wentworth, 26B Sale St,              them like eggs, store them like fish,” he says.
(Koomooloo Vineyard, Caldwell Ln, Orange,          Orange, tel: (02) 6360 0722.                      Borrodell on the Mt, Lake Canobolas Rd,
tel: (02) 6365 2334; open second weekend of        Formerly Proven Bakery, at the time of writing    Orange, tel: (02) 6365 3425.
each month). The former Southcorp head             this bakery had been sold and was undergoing      Believe it or not, Peasgood Nonsuch and
winemaker launched his label last year.            a revamp, but you’ll still find favourites such    Dr Hogg are apple varieties, and at Borrodell
Bloodwood Wines (Griffin Rd, Orange, tel:           as white chocolate and macadamia tarts, and       there are a staggering 170 varieties of heritage
(02) 6362 5631; by appointment only) offers a      quiches and pies, plus breads including spelt     (heirloom) apples. You can pick your own,
wide range of top-quality selections, too.         loaves, and olive and rosemary sourdough.         and they’re also sent out by mail-order. This
   For those who are dying for a cleansing ale     M & J’s Butchery, 30 Moulder St, Orange,          year they’re hoping to unearth their first
after all that wine tasting, there are a number    tel: (02) 6362 2037.                              truffle, after planting them eight years ago.
of pubs in town that have been renovated           Chef Michael Manners of Selkirks helps              In town, Hawkes General Store (see Where
in recent years, including Hotel Canobolas         butcher Michael Borg develop the marinades        to Eat) sells kitchenwares and some local
(248 Summer St, Orange, tel: (02) 6362 2444),      for his ready-marinated meats, including local    produce, as does The Essential Ingredient
which has an outdoor area.                         lamb, beef and venison. There are also poussin,   (205 Summer St, Orange, tel: (02) 6361 8999).

62 delicious.
the guide.
the guide.

                                                                                                                      Clockwise from far left:
                                                                                                                      the Old Convent, now a
                                                                                                                      two-bedroom guest cottage,
                                                                                                                      sits beside this historic church,
                                                                                                                      where Josie Chapman caters
                                                                                                                      for functions; Hockey’s,
                                                                                                                      in Millthorpe, is a former
                                                                                                                      chemist shop that has been
                                                                                                                      converted into a romantic
                                                                                                                      getaway; Belgravia Cottage
                                                                                                                      has a warm country feel.

WHERE TO STAY                                    Annette Ross serve poached fruit and yoghurt,     a romantic cottage, which features a double
Black Sheep Inn at Bed of Roses,                 followed by a cooked breakfast. Doubles from      spa bath with garden views. Owner Belinda
Kyalla Park, Forbes Rd, Orange,                  $185 per night, including breakfast.              Satterthwaite has decorated the rooms in
tel: (02) 6362 6946, www.bedofroses.net.au.      Belgravia Cottage, Belgravia Rd, Orange,          warm hues with rustic artworks made by her
This old woolshed now houses five stylish         tel: (02) 6365 0663, www.belgravia.com.au.        husband, Stephen. From $185 per night.
bedrooms and two living areas, but still keeps   Situated between Orange and Molong, this
its sheep chutes, wool press and wool-sorting    old worker’s cottage has a wisteria-covered       FOODIE EVENTS
table, where Dee Napier serves breakfast. The    verandah that overlooks Belgravia vineyard.       Orange Regional Cooking School,
rooms all have ensuites and mohair blankets      It has a homely feel, claw-foot bath, open        169 Hill St, Orange, tel: (02) 6361 3336,
on the beds. From $195 per couple per night.     fireplace and air-con. The cottage has a double    www.learntocook.com.au.
Borrodell on the Mt (see Where to Shop),         and a twin room, and there’s also a bunkhouse     Take a class at Lesley Russell’s school, where
www.borrodell.com.au.                            that sleeps two. From $132 per double per         the best foodies and chefs from Orange and
Set among fruit trees and vines, Truffles and     night (minimum two-night stay), including         beyond demonstrate.
Chardonnay are two self-contained cottages       breakfast provisions and a bottle of wine.        F.O.O.D. (Food of Orange District) Week,
with three double rooms. They cost $80 per       Old Convent, Convent Ln, Borenore,                www.orangefoodweek.com.au.
person per night, which includes a breakfast     tel: (02) 6365 2420, www.oldconvent.com.au.       F.O.O.D. Week will be back for its 16th year in
hamper. There are also two antique railway       Locals are still trying to mend their broken      2007, from April 13 to 22. This year’s festival
carriages that serve as accommodation – one      foodie hearts after Josie Chapman decided to      had more than 70 events, including degustation
for sleeping and one for dining. The sleeping    close her cafe here. But you can still enjoy      dinners, cooking classes, opera under the
carriage has a double and a twin room, and       Josie’s breakfast if you stay at her cottage, a   stars, grape treading and winery tours.
costs $65 per person per night, including        converted 1870s convent and schoolhouse           Orange Wine Week,
breakfast. Half-price rates for kids under 10.   with two double rooms, and a modern kitchen       www.winesoforange.com.au.
Arancia Bed & Breakfast, Wrights Ln, Orange,     and bathroom. Doubles from $175 per night.        This festival runs from October 20 to 29 and
tel: (02) 6365 3305, www.arancia.com.au.         Hockey’s, 28 Park St,                             includes The Orange Wine Show, winery
Arancia (Italian for orange) has comfortable     Millthorpe, tel: (02) 6366 3643,                  tours, tastings, dinners and concerts. d.
modern rooms for couples, one with a spa and     www.hockeysaccommodation.com.au.                  Thank to Tourism NSW for its assistance with
private courtyard, and all with views of Mt      Just down the road from Tonic restaurant, a       this story. For more information on Orange, tel:
Canobolas. In the morning, hosts David and       former chemist shop has been converted into       (02) 6393 8226 or visit: www.visitnsw.com.au.

64 delicious.

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