VIEWS: 37 PAGES: 8 POSTED ON: 5/3/2010
Volume 7, Issue 3/Fall 2008 Less hops and more flavor? Yes, it’s possible By David Edgar nate brewers recently, I on a list of “Delicious yet low-IBU beer Unless you’ve been living in a cave, realized that perhaps we Turn to pages 2-3 for more news styles,” as well as other thoughts they had you have no doubt heard about the crisis could highlight the huge about brewing practice, philosophy and the in hop availability. range of beers that give on yeast and White Labs. possibilities of different styles. For many brewers, they are fine, they you plenty of flavor but The list started as Top 15, then grew will have enough hops, even allowing for without using plenty of to Top 25, after which I realized it would expected sales growth. For many others, hops. share their thoughts on flavorful beers you be hard to be truly inclusive without going though, they have faced the challenge of Maybe one positive effect the hop short- can brew besides hoppy pale ales, IPAs to Top 40. This is not intended to be any substituting one variety for another – and age may have is in a little bit of soul and double IPAs, but beers that also still sort of argument in favor of strict style defi- using hops they never brewed with, or knew searching and revisiting what beer can be deliver a great amount of flavor to the beer nitions or in trying to determine what is or even existed before. Some have had to all about, beyond all those huge-IBU, big drinker. I asked them what some of their is not a “worthy” beer style. Nonetheless, I discontinue popular beers altogether. Af- hoppy monsters. most flavorful yet lowest hopped beers were, tried to go by accepted beers in the mar- ter speaking with some of those less fortu- So I asked a number of brewers to and for comments and recommendations See “David Edgar,” page 3 2008 hop crop update Attention WL Scandinavian customers By Ralph Olson Ferm will support Ferm was started by Troels Prahl, who is a native of Denmark and who It is now the 12th of September and we Turn to pages 4-5 for are well underway in picking the new crop. White Labs yeast worked at White Labs in San Diego, The good news is that so far we have been more news on hops and Calif., for 6 months last year. Troels seeing some nice hops. We are now pretty Hopunion. cultures in Europe is following in the footsteps of his fa- much done picking aroma hops here in ther, who previously operated a fer- the U.S. and are now starting to pick the Ferm is a microbiological labora- mentation laboratory servicing the wine high alpha or bitter hops. tory and pilot brewery located in industry called Prahl Biolabs. While some of the aroma acreage was production on these hops. Copenhagen, Denmark. Besides offer- Furthermore Ferm will provide only average, we have seen some very good In Europe, the crop is doing at least ing a variety of brewery related ser- technical assistance to White Labs yields in some of them. The Willamette, average with the exception of Germany. vices, Ferm has partnered with White costumers in Europe in cases where Simcoe and Centennial did pretty well. There the crop is one of the best in many Labs Inc. (USA) to support its yeast time differences or distance to the US Overall the alpha for the crop so far also years and alpha levels are doing way above cultures in Europe. is a problem. looks to be average to slightly above aver- average. Most all contracts should be filled, Ferm will be available to provide For more information or inventory age. Color and aromas are very nice. Many but there will be some hops that will con- technical support, training, and order- inquiries contact Ferm directly or of the high alpha hops to be picked might tinue to be difficult to obtain. ing information. They will also provide White Labs USA. have a few disappointing yields only be- We do know, however, that many vari- QC services after the yeast has been www.ferm.dk, firstname.lastname@example.org cause they are first-year hops and it will eties will be in short supply this year and shipped across the Atlantic. Tel: +45 21 85 22 40 take another year or two before we see full See “Hops,” page 4 Style Matters: Tips for making Kolsch beers In each issue, CBQ spotlights a particular beer this style of beer has no hop aroma and little to no hop of beer. Some commercial examples include: Paffgen, style and provides tips from an ingredient and fer- flavor. The subtle bitterness is normally between 20-30 Muhlen, Saranac, and Fruh Kolsch Bier. To view more mentation perspective. In this issue, we look at Kölsch IBU’s, and if detectable, is perceived on the finish. Ger- varieties of hops for your brewing needs please visit beers. man noble hops, specifically Spalt, are commonly used our website at: www.Hopunion.com. Hop Notes: Summer is the perfect time to brew to create this unique beverage. With the hop shortage — Jesse Umbarger, Hopunion LLC a crisp, clean, refreshing beer and if you choose to and limited availability of some hop varieties we would Yeast and Fermentation Notes Notes: brew a Kolsch you are in for a treat. suggest using German Tettnang, German Tradition, or Kolsch is one of the great best-kept secrets of Kolsch is an ale that is easy drinking and remi- Czech Saaz. The hops you select should complement the niscent of many lagers or light pilsners. Traditionally, slightly sweet and subtle fruit qualities found in this style See “Style Matters,” page 8 Page 2 Craft Beer Quarterly Yeastbank Sponsored by White Labs Inc. Lab-scale fermentations a helpful QC tool In recent years, many brewers have but can’t fit it into more. pH, yeast flocculation, and sensory pro- approached us with questions on brewing your brew sched- With the file. All variables are fixed except for the variables and how they can affect the fi- ule? Ever wonder if From the Lab fermen- one parameter being investigated. We can nal product. Much of what we know is based a change in raw tations, even perform the trials using your own on past research and in-house trials, but ingredients Neva Parker you can brewery wort! how does something like this apply to your changes your gain in- For more information or pricing, please specific circumstance? overall product? s i g h t visit our Website at www.whitelabs.com. In an effort to provide our customers Want to know how i n t o : Also, read the other articles in this issue with a more comprehensive tool for chang- aeration levels af- yeast fer- regarding MiniFerments. ing brewing variables, White Labs designed fect your fermenta- menta- a new method of lab-scale fermentations tion? tion per- Neva Parkerr serves as lab manager that can be tailored to any brewers par- White Labs’ MiniFerment can give you formance, attenuation, IBU (pre and post for White Labs. Write her at ticular needs. Want to try out a new strain the answers to these burning questions and fermentation, different with altering strains), email@example.com. More on trial fermentations, including yeast tests Editor’s note: You can find more about MiniFerment review the tests conducted on individual yeast strains. WLP028. Another interesting feature can be found on at whitelabs.com. Strains are being updated regularly with their MiniFerment the MiniFerment section of whitelabs.com. A chart com- yeast: Tests on our yeast White Labs Inc. has tested its data. pares the MiniFerment data of four strains, WLP001, strains using micro-fermentation techniques (as described As of this printing, the following strains have WLP099, WLP400, and WLP833. These strains were in Neva Parker’s column above) over the course of many MiniFerment data as part of their descriptions: WLP001, chosen because they feature significant differences in months using its proprietary MiniFerment process. The WLP002, WLP004, WLP011, WLP013, WLP023, and fermentation behavior. tests, which have been extensively refined over time, pro- vide data that closely mirrors the final properties of large- scale beer. Notes on wort: White Labs used the same light col- ored wort to test each yeast strain. It is 12° Plato wort with IBUs of 37.5 and pH of 5.5 (both IBUs and pH are before fermentation). Fermentation temperature - Ales - 68°F, Lager strains: 55°F. Please note that these tests do not necessarily reflect the values you would get on your own beers (for more on testing your beers, read below), given different recipes and brewing conditions. However, they do provide clues as to how the strains behave on the exact same wort and under the same exact conditions of the MiniFerment. beers: Tests on your beers The MiniFerment process is available to brewing customers. White Labs utilizes as little as 2 liters of your wort to replicate large-scale batches. These tests provide reliable data about your beers, such as optimal aeration levels, fermentation tempera- tures, pH levels, and pitching rates. It is also an ideal way to test multiple yeast strains on the same wort. Basic trials begin at $100, although the price differs depending on testing requests. Testing data may include: - Fermentation speed - Fermentation performance - Optimum fermentation temperature - Optimal aeration levels - Hours to 50 percent attenuation - Time to terminal gravity - pH - Pitching rates Fast times Many flavor and aroma compounds can also be tested Brewer Stephen Schmidt likes his bikes and his beers. His bike is sponsored in part by White Labs. Schmidt for using our Gas Chromatography equipment. is brewmaster at The Cambridge House Brew Pub of Granby, CT, and lead brewer at Redhook Ale Brewery A complete quote is available by visiting whitelabs.com of Portsmouth, NH. Besides racing several different bikes, Schmidt also is an accomplished instructor. and following the links to MiniFerment. This will bring you to a page where you can fill out what you are looking Contributed photo for from these tests. Additionally at the website, you can Page 3 Craft Beer Quarterly Yeastbank Sponsored by White Labs Inc. Hold the Tabasco, but we’ll take everything else I have an idea for any brewer looking start homebrewing Letter from conference. “People Many of our retail store customers are re- to get reinvigorated about his or her job. again. in this room will re- porting a rebound in business. One even My suggestion could bring you back to the Below are some the President define beer,” he said. told me recently that homebrew was ap- enthusiasm for beer that brought you into of my observations “Categories will be proaching the popularity it enjoyed in the this industry in the first place. about this event: Chris White created by people 1990s, although of course other stores My suggestion: attend the next National - Kegging is like those in this are facing hard times because of the Homebrewers Conference, particularly if not just for the ad- room.” He mentioned economy. This new-found interest in you live in the area of the next event (the vanced homebrewer that the creativity he homebrew was evident at the conference, San Francisco Bay Area). I visited the last any longer. The room was witnessing never which had a record 950 attendees. Koch conference, the 30th annual, in the Cin- was full of draft happened before in mentioned that it was probably the first cinnati area in June, and it was one of the homebrew. Indeed, I 8,000 years of time ever that so many brewers were gath- highlights of my year. believe it was probably the largest collec- brewing and would probably never happen ered at the same place. For those who believe the event is for tion of draft homebrew I have seen. again. Hopefully many of these new beer fans homebrewers only, I can tell you that the - Homebrewers continue to be - Pro-brewers night, which we will graduate to become professional brew- activities at this conference are broad and among the most innovative people in beer sponsored, featured beer from 25 brewer- ers like the rest of you. We could use their encompass many subjects including pro- – even if sometimes they go a bit over- ies, from national brands to the brewery creativity! fessional brewing. But most of all, what’s board. In Cincinnati, all kinds of beer were down the street. It was a great opportunity See you in San Francisco … unique and interesting about the confer- being offered, including one that was aged for brewers and homebrewers to unite and Chris White is President of White Labs ence is the enthusiasm and creativity ex- in Tabasco barrels. The creativity was evi- share a common appreciation for beer. Inc. He has a Ph.D in biochemistry. Feel pressed by the participants. It’s bound to dent to Jim Koch, founder of the Boston - Homebrew is on the rise again, free to write him at firstname.lastname@example.org rub off on you. Who knows, you may even Beer Co. and the keynote speaker at the which is good for the rest of the beer world. about this column. David Edgar From Page 1 ketplace that craft brewers are making. And (pumpkin – Cantwell/Elysian) Stout (15-25 IBU) 34. Baltic Porter (22-35 IBU) I copied the IBU ranges as stated in the 4. Herb/Spice beer (5-70 (Havig/RockBottom Portland) 35. Dortmunder/Export (23-29 style descriptions used by the Brewers IBU) 16. Weizenbock (15-25 IBU) IBU) Association for the categories of the Great 5. Scottish Style Ale (9-20 IBU) 17. Munich Dunkel/European Style (Purcell/Great Lakes) American Beer Festival (2007 version) (LaPierre/Iron Hill) Dark (16-25 IBU) 18. Doppelbock (17-27 IBU) See “More Edgar,” page 6 – AND decided, what the heck, we might 6. German Style Hefeweizen/ as well rank these in order of the mini- Krystal Weisse (10-15 IBU) 19. Belgian Style Abbey Dubbel (18- mum hops required to brew each style, (Nelson/Capital, O’Hearn/Rock Bot- 25 IBU) from lowest to highest. tom Westminster, Schmidt/Cambridge (O’Hearn/Rock Bottom Westminster) So here it is, the Top 40 in flavor- House, Talley/Squatters) 20. Märzen (18-25 IBU) Craft Beer Quarterly other-than-hops. Included under each style 7. German Style Dunkel (Dark) 21. Kölsch (18-25 IBU) CBQ is sent each quarter to are names of brewers/breweries, and Weizen (10-15 IBU) (Ashman/Fifty-Fifty, Madden/Vintage 50, Triemert/Upstream) thousands of professional brewers sometimes comments, from 15 award-win- 8. Belgian Style White/Wit (10-17 22. Munich Helles (18-25 IBU) and homebrew shops. This publica- ning brewers I queried via e-mail who IBU) (Havig/RockBottom Portland, Pierce/ tion provides technical tips, profiles mentioned the particular beer style as their (Ashman/Fifty-Fifty, Cilurzo/Russian BBC Beer) and features about the brewing “tops in fewest hops.” After that are further River, Hall/CooperSmith’s, Nelson/Capi- 23. Smoked Beer (18-25 IBU) world. CBQ is sponsored by Cargill insights and opinions, from this ‘informal tal, O’Hearn/Rock Bottom Westminster, 24. American Style Amber Lager Malt, Hopunion CBS LLC and survey’ and the complete names of the Purcell/Great Lakes, Talley/Squatters) brewers and breweries. 9. English Mild Ale (10-24 IBU) (18-30 IBU) White Labs Inc. Below are the “top 40 most flavorful (Hall/CooperSmith’s, Schmidt/Cam- 25. Ordinary Bitter (18-35 IBU) Editorial: low hopped beer styles,” listed in order of bridge House, Triemert/Upstream) 26. Irish Style Red Ale (20-28 IBU) lowest-to-highest International Bitterness 10. American Wheat/Hefeweizen (Meyers/Cambridge Brewing) Mike White, email@example.com Units range. The full name and affiliation (10-35 IBU) 27. Belgian Style Pale Ale/Singel of those providing quotes or suggestions (Havig/Rock Bottom Portland, (20-30 IBU) Advertising: about these styles are provided later in Nelson/Capital) (Ashman/Fifty-Fifty, Madden/Vintage the text. 11. Rye Beer/Finnish Style Sahti 50) JoAnne Carilli-Stevenson, 1. Gruit (any IBU…?) (10-35 IBU) 28. Bock (20-30 IBU) firstname.lastname@example.org 29. Brown Porter (20-30 IBU) 1-888-5-Yeast-5 (“The King of NO HOP Beers: Gruit!” – (Meyers/Cambridge Brewing) Production: Schmidt/Cambridge House; Meyers/ 12. Belgian Style Lambic (11-23 30. French & Belgian Style Saison Cambridge Brewing) IBU) (20-40 IBU) Cold Creek Publishing Co. 2. Berliner Weisse (3-6 IBU) (Meyers/Cambridge Brewing) (Cantwell/Elysian, Madden/Vintage email@example.com (“Berliner Weisse is hardly hopped at 13. Belgian Style Sour Flanders Red 50, Triemert/Upstream) all – though I do put hops in the mash (Sour) Ale (15-25 IBU) 31. Oatmeal Stout (20-40 IBU) For all other inquires, contact: since I don’t boil my wort” – Cantwell/ (Hall/CooperSmith’s, Meyers/Cam- 32. German-Style Schwarzbier (22- CBQ, P.O. Box 12636 Elysian) bridge Brewing, Pierce/BBC Beer) 30 IBU) Pleasanton, CA, 94588 (Pierce/BBC Beer) Fax: (253) 981-7534 3. Fruit Beer/Fruit Wheat Beer/ 14. English Brown Ale (15-25 IBU) firstname.lastname@example.org Pumpkin Beer (5-70 IBU) 15. Sweet Stout/Milk Stout/Cream 33. Vienna (22-28 IBU) Page 4 Craft Beer Quarterly Hop Pages Sponsored by Hopunion Dirty Jobs: Coming to your TV set By Jessica Dickinson This fall the Discovery Channel’s hit show “Dirty Jobs” came to Hopunion to shoot a show of the hop harvest. Mike Rowe, the show’s star, was in good form as always, giving the job his all. They took the crew out to BT Loftus Ranches and put Mike Dirty Jobs: Above left, Ralph Olson, Jobs Rowe to work. We didn’t include photos of this so as not to general manager/owner of Hopunion, give away the show, however, to the right is a photo among takes a picture with “Dirty Jobs” host Mike others pf the after-party. Rowe. He will surely wear that Hopunion hat for a long time. Above, Rowe reviews Everyone seemed to have had a lot of fun, and Mike and a hop-related message: “horny, happy, his crew even signed our wall. hoppy.” Left, the “Dirty Jobs” crew enjoys beer and pool. Hopefully in the next CBQ will be able to tell you when the show will be aired. Hops From Page 1 possibly for a few years into the future. grower community. In the U.S. alone it appears 8-9 thou- plant aroma hops, knowing their return per acre might be There are many reasons for variety shortages, but sand acres have been planted. Unfortunately, most of less, so please be aware that the pricing on aroma hops mostly it boils down to simple economics. For the past these acres were planted to high alpha hops. Some aro- is high not only because of the shortage but to establish say 14-15 years, high alpha hops have been considered mas got planted, but also some established fields were their importance in this industry to the growers. to be in overabundance and hence sold at or below cost taken out. Meanwhile, we continue to buy aroma hops from other of production. The reality of the situation was that high Main reason is yield. High alpha hops on average countries. This will help fill some of the gaps I expect to alpha type hops were quickly losing ground to demand as yield a much higher poundage than aroma hops. For the see as the demand grows faster than the acreage planted. acres were being taken out. last number of years when high alpha hops sold cheap, Good news is that acreage is now being planted around This past year international breweries came into the there wasn’t so much economic difference in growing the world and as production catches up with demand, we market, and were told none or very limited supplies were either type, but now with high prices, it is really coming will see some reduction in the pricing of hops and even- available. This started a panic in the marketplace with into play, and the yield per acre is also important in this. tually more hops becoming available to use. these breweries and soon it seems no price was too high It will take a few years to get the high alpha prices to a to pay. more reasonable level. Ralph Olson is general manager/owner of Hopunion This instant market was quickly jumped upon by the Until that time we will continue to ask growers to LLC. A comparison of two New Zealand hops: Styrian Aurora and Styrian Bobek Styrian Aurora is similar to Perle, while Styrian Aurora Styrian Bobek Styrian Bobek is similar to Fuggle, Williamette, and Styrian Golding Alpha Acids 7.0 – 9.0% w/w Alpha Acids 6.0 – 9.3% w/w Beta Acids 3.0 – 5.0% w/w Beta Acids 4.0 – 6.6% w/w Co-Humulone 23 – 28% of alpha acids Co-Humulone 26% of alpha acids By Jessica Dickinson Total Oil 0.9 – 1.4 mls/100 grams Total Oil .82- 2.67 mls/100 grams We currently have some wonderful hops that will Myrcene 35 – 53% of whole oil Myrcene 35 – 53% of whole oil be coming available for this 2008 harvest that you Humulene 20 – 27% of whole oil Humulene 12.4% of whole oil may not have heard of yet. Caryophyllene 4.0 – 8.0% of whole oil Caryophyllene 4.3% of whole oil We currently have some of the Styrian Aurora Farnesene 6.0 – 9.0% of whole oil Farnesene 3.0% of whole oil from the 2007 harvest if you should wish to order some for testing in your brews. Styrian Aurora General Trade Perception: Styrian Bobek General Trade Percep- We will be receiving more of the Styrian Aurora Aurora (Super Styrian) has an intense and pleasant tion: tion Pleasant hop aroma, similar to established and the Styrian Bobek in November from their 2008 hoppy aroma. Beer prepared with this variety has good European aroma hops. Small to medium-small cones harvest. organoleptical scores. Very suitable for extraction and that are easy to pick. Please review the information to the right on these for combination with other varieties in the brewing Most similar to Fuggle, Willamette, and Styrian two wonderful hops. process. Most similar to Perle. Golding. Page 5 Craft Beer Quarterly Hop Pages Sponsored by Hopunion Hops and Brew School 2008: another success By Jessica Dickinson round table discussions. The brewers were given a tour of room, and then baled once they are properly cooled. This For this year’s Hops and Brew School over 150 brew- how the hops are processed once they arrive here at year, one student, Dale Meddings, of Bintani, come from ers flooded into Yakima over a 4-day period of taste Hopunion. Ralph Olson (picture #1) is showing a cut Australia to attend the school this year. You can’t ask for a testing, hop farm tours, and informative lectures given by sample from a bale that had just been delivered. The brewers better compliment than that. Tomme Arthur of Pizza Port Brewing, Steve Dresler of were also given a tour of the hop fields and got to see the We would also like to thank Debbie Byrne, Joanne Sierra Nevada, Bryan Selders of Dogfish Head, and Finn harvest in full action. Scully, and Jo Ann Waters for organizing the event and for Knudsen of Beverage Consult International, among oth- Photos #5 and 6 show how the vines are cut down feeding all those hungry brewers, and to Jesse Umbarger ers. Not to mention our very own Ralph Olson discussing and transported to the picking machines. The hop vines and his crew for always keeping ice cold beer on tap. the current hop market, and the coming future. are then loaded onto hooks that carry them through the We are very proud of our little brew school and our These lectures covered topics such as brewing tech- picking machines, and once the leaves have been sepa- entire crew who keeps everything running. Brew School is niques with nontraditional ingredients, hop growing for com- rated from the cones, the cones are then carried by a always a wonderful time of making friends, and drinking mercial brewers and the feasibility, hop botany and pro- conveyer belt into the kilns. beer and it is always an experience that won’t be forgot- duction, fermentation, the international hop market, and Once dried the hops are then moved to the cooling ten! 1 2 3 8 7 4 5 6 Cancer fundraiser: Beer for Boobs gains momentum On November 21, 2008, several of will be a part of this team think we should black ringer trim. Numerous events will be your favorite yeast ranchers will walk 60 live long enough for our boobies to enjoy held as part of the Beer for Boobs miles over the course of three days. all the great beer in this world. What a fundraiser. Past fundraising events were It's for an event called the Breast Can- cause, right? held at Green Flash Brewing Co. and La cer 3-Day, which benefits the Susan G. The White Labs team will wear spe- Jolla Brewhouse. Komen for the Cure and the National Phil- cial Beer for Boobs T-shirts. These spe- Finally, you can also donate online at anthropic Trust Breast Cancer Fund. cial shirts will be worn by the team mem- www.The3Day.org. You can donate to any Without a cure, one in eight women in bers while on training walks, during drink of the team members on Beer for Boobs. the U.S. will continue to be diagnosed with training, during the walk itself, and at If you don't want to donate online, breast cancer. fundraising events. To view the shirts or to please download and print a donation form That's why Lisa White, Ashley order one, click here. and mail it to the address on the form Paulsworth, JoAnne Carilli-Stevenson, Meg All proceeds from the shirts will go to (visit whitelabs.com for more information). Falbo and Stefanie Wacker have commit- the Susan G. Komen Foundation. The girl Or you can call 800.996.3DAY to ted to walking the 3-Day. shirts are really cute ringer tees in black donate over the phone. The team name is Beer for Boobs. All with hot pink trim. Boobies all over the globe need your the ladies (and maybe some dudes) who The men’s shirts are dark gray with support! Page 6 Craft Beer Quarterly Extra Yeast Page Sponsored by Cargill Malt More Edgar From Page 3 36. Oktoberfest (23-29 IBU) mensional beer with few or low hop-rate. it seems to be gaining popularity. Also, 37. Belgian Style Tripel (23-33 2. Munich Helles,: nice, light approach- Belgian Whites are great low hop beers. IBU) able beer that accentuates the malt and Not only are they low in BUs but they use 38. French Style Biere de Garde lager yeast with spices instead of finishing hops. Along (25-30 IBU) just a touch of those lines maybe some brewers who have (Schmidt/Cambridge House) hops. 3. avoided doing spiced beers around Christ- 39. Strong Scotch Ale (25-35 IBU) Schwarzbier: mas (a lot go the Celebration route and 40. Irish Style Dry Stout (30-40 same reasons do a Double IPA) should maybe recon- IBU) as the Helles sider. Same with people who don’t (Cantwell/Elysian, Meyers/Cam- except dark and take advantage of October as an bridge) a touch more opportunity to do a pumpkin ale. We just completed a hop complex. I’m an –Chris LaPierre, Iron Hill Brew- utilization experiment within the Rock Bot- ale guy myself ery, West Chester, Pa. tom group which I think you might find but, when I see I have been concentrating on doing interesting. The findings are not in yet, but either of the two lagers in craft brew form, more Belgian styles and have been expe- Van Havig may be able to reveal some I get one. riencing brisk sales of beer styles like our David Edgar data. [Havig’s remarks appear below.] –David Pierce BBC Beer Co./ Angels Share, a Belgian style Pale, Devils –Scott O’Hearn, Rock Bottom Bluegrass Brewing Co., Louisville, Due, a Belgian Strong Golden, or our V- Brewery, Westminster, Colo. Ky. 50 Saison, very flavorful and spiced with Please include Doppelbocks on your Just because a beer is “malt driven” Kala Jeera Coriander (also known as Black gruits throughout the year, including list! Also, a true Baltic Porter. American does not necessarily mean it does not re- Cumin), and Thai Green Peppercorn. One Heather Ale, a gruit using jasmine/laven- Wheats, German Hefeweizens, and Wit quire a good amount of hops to develop beer style that is our biggest seller every- der/orange blossoms, Weekapaug Gruit would probably be beers with the lowest its backbone. With that said, I would not where I brew has been Kölsch. Very little (classic gruit with yarrow/sweet gale/ BU’s of what I am familiar with on your consider Bock low hopped. Even a Maibock hops there and I produce four times this marsh rosemary), and a dark malty gruit list. Of the lagers, I generally brew needs a good amount of hops to balance beer to any other brew I make. It’s light, in the works in our barrel cellar. Amaz- Octoberfest, Helles, and Munich style darks the alcohol present. Dry Irish Stout also crisp and showcases a restrained hop dry- ingly, all of these beers are very popular with the least amount of Alpha acids/bbl. requires a good amount of hops to counter ness without using much in the way of hops. here at the brewery as well as amongst –Kirby Nelson, Capital Brewery, Kirby the strong roasted barley required. I could The yeast I use attenuates the beer so our wholesale accounts, with calls and e- Madison, Wis. possibly even make this argument for much that even a little hop goes a long Our least-hopped beers are pumpkin Oktoberfest as well. With that said, some way. For the Belgians I get a lot of flavor (but that probably qualifies as herb/spice), styles missing from your list include: Ameri- by spicing or in the case of a Belgian Strong Irish stout, and the saisons (especially the can Premium Lager and Mexican Lager. Golden or Saison, high fermentation temps ones, once again, that use spice). You’ve Jennifer –Jennifer Talley, Squatters help a lot for flavor. got some wheat beers in there….The sour Brewpub/Salt Lake Brewing Co., -Bill Madden, Vintage 50 Res- beers are certainly flavorful – in fact, any Salt Lake City, Utah taurant & Brew Lounge, Leesburg, yeast with much of a signature would Many of those beers styles have been VA present an alternative flavor profile to re- sadly overlooked due to the hop wars in I personally love some low-hopped lying on hops. recent years. Maybe it will bring about a beer styles and while IPAs and other hoppy –Dick Cantwell, Elysian Brew- Dick higher appreciation for the subtleties and styles have grown in popularity in our part ing Co., Seattle, Wash. balance these beers can have. From your of the country (always behind the times!), My three favorite beers that are lower list the only style I might remove would be many of our loyal customers still prefer on hops than other beers are English Mild, the Kölsch. I don’t know how other brew- lower hopped styles. Our Dortmunder Gold Saison, and Kölsch. All of these are very ers make theirs, but mine has a fairly gen- is still our best seller and our Holy Moses drinkable and refreshing. It seems that the erous amount of hops in it. However I would Wit is probably our lowest in hops per bar- mails about release dates and availability US interpretation of most European style agree that a proper Kölsch is very flavor- rel. Bocks/Doppelbocks are very popular pretty much a constant. While new cus- beers include more hops than intended in ful. … What about fruit beers? … I used here, and, if done well, can have great tomers may order a glass somewhat warily, the original style. A toast to tradition in to make fruit beers with about one pound depth in flavor. One of my favorite brews they typically become immediate converts regards to hops would be a great way to of real fruit per gallon! They where damn has always been our Scotch Ale. We start to the idea of flavors in beers which are work through this hop crunch. expensive to make but worth the cost for boiling wort from the beginning of the run- “outside the box.” –Zac Triemert, Upstream Brew- Zac the rich flavor and color the fruit imparted. off which creates great caramelized fla- -Will Meyers, Cambridge Brew- ing Co., Omaha, Neb. It might also be splitting hairs but how about vors. I think one mistake consumers make ing Co., Cambridge, Mass. The only beer for us that is lower (rela- oatmeal stouts also? is assuming that these styles are going to Some of our least hopped flavorful tively) in hop usage is our Little White Lie –Steven Schmidt, Cambridge be super sweet (a friend of mine calls them beers would probably be: Biere Blanche (Belgian style White beer). We make some House Brewing, Granby, Conn. (and “brown sugar beers”), but if they are de- du Fort (Belgian Wit) wonderful flavors of our dark Belgian style ales, and our Redhook Ale Brewery, Portsmouth, signed with balance in mind (good attenu- from the yeast and very refreshing. Coal hoppy Belgian style ales with a healthy N.H.) ation and just enough hops), they can be Miner’s Mild (English Mild) one of my amount of hops, and even our Blonde Ale I’ve got a Scottish Ale on tap right a very enjoyable beer even for the hop personal favorites. With a low hop rate and (non-Belgian style) has a good amount of now that I’m in love with. It’s one of those heads! low alcohol, I find this a style to be a great hops, though, it is less than the average beers that doesn’t knock you over on the -Luke Purcell, Great Lakes Luke challenge to brew but a real treasure to Russian River Belgian style or IPA (of first sip, but once you get to the last sip Brewing Company, Cleveland, Ohio drink when done well. [And] all of our course). you think about how much you’d love an- I think that gruit ales/unhopped beers Belgian Sour beers. We have done Oud -Vinnie Cilurzo, Russian River other one. Not only is it low in BUs but are going to become much more preva- Bruin, Flanders Red and Kriek. All these Brewing Co., Santa Rosa, Calif. it’s 3.6% abv! You might add Gruit. It’s lent in the next few years. At Cambridge beers are bursting with flavor with almost 1. Sour Ale: very complex, multidi- a lighter version of a Saison basically and Brewing Company we brew four different See “More Edgar 2,” page 7 Page 7 Craft Beer Quarterly Extra Yeast Page Sponsored by Cargill Malt JoAnne From Page 8 mise of the beer culture in the UK. While there are still many small brewers, Real Ale is not prevalent. But thanks to brewers such as Meantime in London, I believe you will see the resurgence of a true Lon- don brand. The trips were educational and fun. But I have to say, it is always nice to get back home where I can enjoy a beer in my own backyard! (To the right are photos from these trips). More Edgar 2 From Page 6 no hops. malt, hops and yeast derived esters – the beers aren’t New Holland has been doing all along (it is funny when A lot of beer fans have gotten the message that the over hopped and all three ingredients make very notice- what you have been doing – trying to create a nice drink- best beers are the ones with the most hops. This is ri- able contributions. American ales tend to be a duet of ing, balanced beer – once considered to be outside the diculous and unfortunate. Some of the toughest beers to hops and malt – either too hoppy or too malty for the paradigm of your industry starts to become the model of brew well are those with very few hops. To me, the best yeast to play a very significant role. how people should produce beer!) We made a Saison meal is not the largest or spiciest one, it’s the one that As far as spices are concerned, they make me a little this summer and are also making a smoked dopplebock fits the occasion best with the most pleasant flavor. If nervous. We use them, but try no to do so in excess – to be released in September. In all we make about 8 of anything good comes out of this tough hop market I hope which seems to be the de rigeuer method for everything. those beers on your list regularly. Hmmm, coincidence? it is more brewers proudly putting more lightly hopped I think they’re a great idea when used ALONG with a nice Some of these beers that get a lot of recognition for low alcohol craft beers into the hands of their customers. yeast strain – but not as a flat out substitution for hops. being “über-hoppy” really aren’t that great, in my opin- -Dwight Hall, CooperSmith’s Brewing Co., As far as the [Rock Bottom] hop aroma and flavor ion. Part of the problem with our judging procedures for Fort Collins, Colo. utilization experiment goes, I’m just in the early stages so any festival is that you only drink a couple of ounces – if There has been some interest in ‘session beers’ for a far. However, it does seem that we’re going to get some that – and that doesn’t really get you the full experience while. This is an ideal time to start thinking about that. fairly legitimate results. The initial empirical evidence of drinking a beer. While in San Diego I had one of these I’m brewing a Belgian ‘Single’, Wit, Kolsch and Golden seems to be pointing to the fact that long post boil resi- experiences (with a San Diego beer). Ale. These beers use very little hops. I recall certain dence times and a bit of dry hopping seem to give the This particular brand has garnered a lot of acclaim beers that usually only take one hop addition like Oatmeal most bang for the buck – but don’t quote me on it yet. recently so when I saw the hotel had it on tap I jumped on Stout and Wee Heavy as others that are low on hop us- We’re also going to be looking at water hardness and the opportunity to try it. The first sip I thought, “you know, age .... I’ve also started to really focus on trimming down bitterness perception which should be interesting to test this is pretty good. It probably does deserve the acco- use of certain hops in favor of others to get the same/ some generally accepted concepts. I’m just now finishing lades.” But as I was drinking it I had the unpleasant similar flavor. the data entry alone. experience of transgeminal shut down happen – essen- I still brew an IPA that clocks in at 70 IBU which in Sorting out the statistics, doing final ion concentra- tially, the beer was so hoppy my pallet just shut off and it this day and age seems like such an extravagance. With tions for all the types of water, plotting the graphs, etc. is became very unpleasant to drink the beer. some of the hops I use clocking in at nearly $20 a pound, going to take an awful lot of time. I’ve been invited to give Unpleasant enough that I didn’t finish my beer nor brewing a beer with almost 40 pounds of hops is very an early presentation to the Colorado Brewer’s Guild in did I order another one all week! The funny thing was I pricey. We were lucky to have signed our 2007 contract February, and hope to present it in Boston next year. was eating a burger with it and if you can’t eat a burger early but when then 2008 hops come in our prices are Feel free to let everyone know that the results will be with your IPA then what the hell is the point in making going to have to go up a lot more than they already made fully public. that IPA? have. We’re selling IPA for $5.25 a pint now …. As far as the experiment goes, we had 32 breweries [Another person] had the exact same experience with -Todd Ashman, Fifty-Fifty Brewing Co., participate (by which I mean the beers were put through the exact same beer. Funny. But I guess more hops are Truckee, Calif. sensory panels and sent to the lab). All of the Rock Bot- better (that is sarcasm in case it doesn’t translate in the In general, I think that the beers with the most ag- toms, the Walnut and the Denver Chophouse all actually electronic world!) I wonder, if the judging process re- gressive yeast derived flavors are really the best bets – made a beer “to spec”. quired you to drink a full pint, if some of these beers they need hardly any finishing hops, and they’re all in the -Van Havig, Rock Bottom Brewery, Portland, would continue to win awards? After all, the true measure 30 BU and under range. Frankly, I don’t think any of Ore. of a beer isn’t in the first sip but rather it is in the last one them really need to be over 25 legitimate BU’s, and a lot I find it interesting that there is a group of people - i.e. was it good enough, start to finish, that you want of them are pretty good at just over 20. within our industry who claim that Midwestern breweries another? If it wasn’t then it isn’t a very good beer. For us, the lowest hop usage beers are our Cream don’t understand hops … I digress. Although I like hops -John Haggerty, New Holland Brewing Co., Stout, American Hefeweizen (spiced with ginger and co- and hoppy beer quite a bit, I find hops are not as capable Holland, Mich. riander) and Helles Lager. All of them are at or under of providing the diversity of flavor that malt can derive. 0.35 lbs per BBL (if we used higher alpha hops for bittering Personally, I think malt is the true essence of beer and David Edgar learned about all aspects of the brewing they’d be down closer to 0.25 lbs per BBL but our odd hops should be used to accentuate that flavor position. industry during 14 years working at the Brewers Associa- brewery requires a minimum of 0.33 lbs of hops per BBL Now there are times where hops will be more dominant tion (aka AOB & IBS). Now, through his own company, to clarify in the hop back). (i.e. IPA) but they should never completely drown out the Mountain West Brewery Supply, Inc., he represents two In general, I think that American brewers aren’t very malt essence of a beer. [The premise of] your article, suppliers on the brewing side - Hopunion and White Labs good at getting yeast based esters integrated into their proposing that we as craft brewers stop focusing exclu- - and two suppliers on the sales and marketing side - beers. We’re too used to using hops to give fruity and sively on hops and how many hops we can cram into a Rastal glassware and Chrislan Ceramics tap handles. He floral flavors and we ignore normal ale esters. I like to pint of beer and start focusing more on malt and beer enjoys drinking all styes of flavorful beer, and listening to describe it as British ales are a three part harmony of styles that are more malt forward – is essentially what many different styles of good music. Cold Creek Publishing Co. PO Box 12636 Pleasanton, CA 94588 Attention brewer Craft Beer Quarterly The Back Page The beer world and beyond: recent trip notes Recently, Chris White and I have been traveling to the traditional German style Hofbrauhaus model. No longer discover more about the craft brewing industry outside are you just seeing Hefe, Dunkel, and Pilsner. the United States. And great beer is everywhere (not that Trends in the Industry In Norway, there is passion and a desire to learn. I am telling you something you don’t already know). The Nogne O hosted the Scandavian Brewers Conference, one exciting thing is how great beer is incorporated into where Chris not only spoke but offered a microscope the individual cultures. JoAnne Carilli- class (which was a little difficult to follow after drinking In Japan, you can find many Belgian beer bars, multi- Stevenson, sales and until 5 a.m. I had been warned about the Swedish Brew- taps and even a microbrewery in Disneyland. We were marketing manager, ers, and maybe should have paid more attention). The fortunate enough to get to host a homebrew event at Popeye cooperative effort between the various sizes of breweries in Tokyo (see photos). Fantastic selection of Japanese White Labs Inc. was exciting to see as well. After the conference, we microbrews and even the Red Sox (see even the Japa- headed to Flam, home of possibly the most picturesque nese know who the best team in baseball is). And speak- brewery in the world. I suggest a visit (if not for the scen- ing of baseball, the beer girls at the stadium crush what ery, then for the Kolsch)! we find in the US. pairs nicely with the food). Thanks to new breweries, such And finally, off to the UK. It was hard to see the de- In China, the beer revolution is in development (and as the Boxing Cat Brewery, the climate is changing from See “JoAnne,” page 7 Style Matters From Page 1 small breweries. It allows them to make lighter but flavor- lab and when in the packaging, but it is not a very floccu- Malty, Northern European-origin ale yeast. Low ester ful beers without having to alter their procedures. lent strain when brewing. production, giving a clean profile. Little to no sulfur pro- Some of our customers use this yeast (WLP029) to Below you will find a more detailed description about duction. Low attenuation helps to contribute to the malty make great kolsch beers that have a decidedly lager-like a couple of our strains ideally suited for Kolsch beers. character. Good for Alt, Kolsch, malty English ales, and flavor. In some cases it can become their signature beer WLP029 German Ale/Kölsch Yeast: fruit beers. for those looking for something on the lighter end. For From a small brewpub in Cologne, Germany, this yeast Attenuation: 65-70% the brewery it is great because they can offer something works great in Kölsch and Alt-style beers. Good for light Flocculation: Medium lighter that is nonetheless an ale, which is ideal if they beers like blond and honey. Accentuates hop flavors, simi- Ideal Fermentation Temperature Range: 65-70°F are an ale-only brewery. lar to WLP001. The slight sulfur produced during fer- Alcohol Tolerance: Medium You will want to ferment this beer at or under 68 mentation will disappear with age and leave a super clean, — Chris White, White Labs degrees Fahrenheit; lower temperatures are okay but the lager like ale. fermentation will take longer. Although it is sometimes Attenuation: 72-78% : Malt Notes: Kölsch typically uses German pilsner confused with a bottom fermenting yeast because of the Flocculation: Medium malt and or pale malt. Some recipes use wheat malt or lower fermentation temperature, kolsch is absolutely an Optimum Fermentation Temperature: 65-69°F Vienna malt, although wheat malt is not common com- ale yeast. Does not ferment well less than 62°F, unless during mercially. Judging wise, guidelines call for this style to Some notes about our kolsch strain: it is a deceptive active fermentation. have very little to no malt aroma. If wheat malt is used, it strain for a couple of reasons. It occasionally can look Alcohol Tolerance: Medium should comprise no more than 20 percent of the total, very clumpy and flocculent when we are growing it in the WLP011 European Ale Yeast: although even this amount is rare.
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