Installing the Heads
We teamed up with Cole Cutler, CHI Motorsports' master engine builder. Under his expertise
we're able to show you (and learn ourselves) the ins and outs of the 4.6L 2V. As you'll see it is
not as daunting as it seems, and while we worked with the motor out of the car you can
certainly perform the job under the hood. If you do plan to tackle a head swap with the motor
in the car one tip is to pull the heads with the stock manifolds attached, then swap them over
to the new heads before installing to the block. This will save from going under the car to
remove the manifolds.
We sourced a bone stock 4.6L 2V Tear down continues with removal
from a local salvage yard. The car had of the valve covers followed by the
just 7,800 miles before it was rear- timing cover and chains. This is a
ended and totalled out. We began by Romeo engine as evident by the 11
pulling the stock plastic intake. The valve cover bolts per head and cam
injectors and fuel rails can all stay girdles. More on the differences
attached. between Romeo and Windsor engines
on page 3.
The head bolts are removed and The stock heads can come off with
immediately thrown away. You can't the cams still bolted down. Once on
reuse TTY (torque to yield) hardware the work bench you'll want to pull off
so don't even try. the cam girdles and get the followers
and lash adjusters as they will be
We could have simply installed a These motors use multi-layered
new set of Ford torque-to-yield TTY steel (MLS) head gaskets. The Ford
head bolts (#F5AZ6065A) on this pieces cost $159 each! The Fel-Pro
motor, but we opted for ArP studs 9790-PT2 more affordable choice at
(ARP# 256-4201 Buy Now) for added about $60 a piece. Coated with their
clamping force. Plus unlike TTY bolts PermaTorque coating it will also seal
the studs are reusable. At the time of up much better. Unlike on pushrod
writing this article ARP did not have Fords there is a distinct left and right
head bolts developed for these side. Note the pistons are below deck.
motors. This is "safe mode" and is achieved
with the crank key way placed
straight up at 12 0' clock. This will be
important in the cam installation
phase to avoid bending valves.
4.6L 2V cylinder heads are not side The underside of both heads must
specific, however the head you put on have this plug installed. Patriot
the driver-side of the motor must installs this one for you, but it doesn't
have this galley plug installed in the hurt to double check.
back. Otherwise you'll fire up with
zero oil pressure and a big leak. Once
you install the plug mark the heads
(D for Driver side, etc.) so you don't
accidentally install on the wrong side.
The springs supplied by Patriot are The cam caps are machined specific
sufficient to .600" lift however we to each side of the cylinder head and
opted to run the springs cannot be interchanged. Mark them
recommended by Comp Cams before you remove them so they go
(PN:26113-16). This spring works back in the exact same location and
with all three of there Xtreme Energy orientation.
cams for PI heads.
Lower the heads onto the block and Cole's tip when building any motor
install the bolts, or in our case since is to have both heads on the block
we used studs, we'll install the and alternate your torqueing of the
washers and nuts. Use oil or moly bolts/studs between both heads to
under the heads to get a good torque get even stretch on the block. Work
reading. your way out from the inside pair of
head bolts to the outside, in steps
Note also that we have removed the from 30lb.ft. to 50lb.ft. to the final
cam "girdles" from the heads (caps spec. Remember if you do use the
for Windsor Engine Plant heads).Their OEM TTY head bolts they MUST be
locations are unique and cannot be new, and you have to follow the
interchanged along the head or stretch specification outlined in the
between cylinder heads. Mark them shop manual.
before you remove!
Before putting the cams in place position the crankshaft so
The lash adjusters and that the keyway is straight up in the 12 o'clock position. This is
followers are set into placed. considered "safe mode" and unlike on most pushrod motors this
Many opt to install these after ensures none of the pistons are at Top Dead Center (TDC). This
the cams are in place, however is important because once the cams are torqued down there will
that will require the use of a be valves hanging open that can contact a piston in the up
special Ford spring compressor position.
tool to enable the follower to fit
under the cam lobe. This
method is easier and
Prior to installing the camshaft timing sprockets transfer over
The cams come in two boxes the spacers from the stock cams. Then slide on the gears
and are unique to the left and aligning the keyway. The stock gears have the key cast into the
right side of the motor. Be sure sprocket while the Fidanza gears (shown) utilize a separate key.
to check the engraving on the We had to cut the keys down to be flush with the gear because
cam to ensure you've got the our spacers did not have a keyway slot. We suspect that some
right cam on the right head. 4.6L motors (maybe from the Windsor Engine Plant) utilized a
With the cam lightly oiled, or slotted spacer which enables for a longer key. We'll pass this
lubed with moly, set the cam along to Fidanza, maybe they can through two sizes of keys into
girdles (or caps in the case of a the package.
Windsor head) in position. Snug
the bolts down evenly and then
torque to 89 lbs.in. Read that
carefully, if you torque to foot-
pounds you'll break and warp
The next step is to get the cams phased to the crankshaft
Comp Cam's utilize position. This is done by installing the timing chains. Unlike on a
M12x1.50mm bolts to retain the pushrod motor where you simply line up the crank and cam
cam gears. These are also TTY gears and get the chain on, on overhead cam motors the idea is
bolts and while they should not the same but the way you carry it out is a little more
be reused we know many guys complicated to the fact you have two cams, four gears, and they
do. The wiser choice is to just are spread apart. Lay the chains out on a bench and fold them in
get a new set. We're using half. You can fold them so the factory copper links are at each
ARP#256-1001, it's the same end. Cole recommends marking each end link of each chain with
bolt that holds the harmonic a paint mark to aid assembly.
balancer so pick up three. Use
the stock hardened washer
behind the bolt. You'll need to
hold the cam steady with a big
wrench as shown and torque
the ARP bolts to 60 lb.ft. Make
sure that crank is set to safe-
mode before you turn the cam!
Shown is the timing mark on the crank sprocket. There is one
Install the driver-side chain mark but two sprockets. The end links (red marks) must line up
first, as it goes on the rear dead on with this mark. Note that this timing mark is not the
crank sprocket. Then install the keyway.
passanger-side chain. Line up
the red marked end links with
the timing marks (NOT the
keyways!) in the crank and cam
gears. You may need to turn
the cam shaft to make this
happen. Don't turn the crank as
it should be keyway-up in safe
Install the timing chain guides and tensioners (page 3 for tips
On the cam gears the read on this) and perform a final check of all the timing marks. The
mark must line up with the 0- chains wont have full tension until the tensioners are filled with
degree timing mark. Again do oil, but there is enough to turn the crank now without worry of
not confuse this with the damaging a valve or piston.
keyway. Note the 12 degrees of
advance or retard possibility
with the Fidanza cam gear.
We'll discuss degreeing the
cams on page 3.
The timing cover can go back into place. The stock
Before installing the timing gasket/seal is reusable if it is not torn, however use a dab of
cover be sure to install the silicone sealer where the cover meets the corners of the cylinder
crank trigger wheel. heads.
4.6L 2V Tips and Tricks
Degreeing Modular Cams
Cole Cutler shows us some of the A pair of followers (modified with
tools he has specially modified to larger holes) enables Cole to set the
make degreeing easier at HCI lash on his modified adjusters with a
Motorsports. The solid lash adjuster thin flat-blade screw driver.
here is akin to solid lifter on a
pushrod engine. This enables the cam
to be set to zero-lash.
You can use a standard degreeing If you find your measurements are
kit. The process is no different than off a few degrees from the cam
we've outlined in our Degreeing specifications the only easy way to
Fundamentals however since there make the adjustment is with a set of
are two cams you need to perform Fidanza adjustable gears. We initially
the process twice. Start on one side set our to 1 degree retard to
with only one of the chains accommodate for slack in the chain as
connected. Then move over to the a result of the slightly milled heads.
other side. We subsequently moved this back to
straight up as our degree
measurements were spot on with
Comp Cams' cam card for the 262
4.6L 2V Tips and Tricks
The timing chain guides should be Chain tensioners must be
checked for wear and replaced if compressed before attempting to
neccesary. Cole shows us to look for reinstall into position. Use a C-clamp
uneven chain rub on the plastic. On to compress the plunger, then push
high-mileage motors the chains down the lever (top left) and install a
should also be replaced. paperclip or small nail in the lock
The locked tensioner can then be Safe Mode is when the crank key
bolted to the block and released by way is at 12 o' clock. This puts all the
pulling the pin out. Note the pistons below deck. Top Dead Center
tensioners are marked left and right. for cylinder #1 is located at about 11
o 'clock (note the TDC mark cast into