Docstoc

Installing the Headsdoc - Installing the Heads

Document Sample
Installing the Headsdoc - Installing the Heads Powered By Docstoc
					Installing the Heads
We teamed up with Cole Cutler, CHI Motorsports' master engine builder. Under his expertise
we're able to show you (and learn ourselves) the ins and outs of the 4.6L 2V. As you'll see it is
not as daunting as it seems, and while we worked with the motor out of the car you can
certainly perform the job under the hood. If you do plan to tackle a head swap with the motor
in the car one tip is to pull the heads with the stock manifolds attached, then swap them over
to the new heads before installing to the block. This will save from going under the car to
remove the manifolds.




   We sourced a bone stock 4.6L 2V          Tear down continues with removal
from a local salvage yard. The car had   of the valve covers followed by the
just 7,800 miles before it was rear-     timing cover and chains. This is a
ended and totalled out. We began by      Romeo engine as evident by the 11
pulling the stock plastic intake. The    valve cover bolts per head and cam
injectors and fuel rails can all stay    girdles. More on the differences
attached.                                between Romeo and Windsor engines
                                         on page 3.




                   The head bolts are removed and          The stock heads can come off with
                 immediately thrown away. You can't      the cams still bolted down. Once on
                 reuse TTY (torque to yield) hardware    the work bench you'll want to pull off
                 so don't even try.                      the cam girdles and get the followers
                                                         and lash adjusters as they will be
                                                         reused.
   We could have simply installed a          These motors use multi-layered
new set of Ford torque-to-yield TTY       steel (MLS) head gaskets. The Ford
head bolts (#F5AZ6065A) on this           pieces cost $159 each! The Fel-Pro
motor, but we opted for ArP studs         9790-PT2 more affordable choice at
(ARP# 256-4201 Buy Now) for added         about $60 a piece. Coated with their
clamping force. Plus unlike TTY bolts     PermaTorque coating it will also seal
the studs are reusable. At the time of    up much better. Unlike on pushrod
writing this article ARP did not have     Fords there is a distinct left and right
head bolts developed for these            side. Note the pistons are below deck.
motors.                                   This is "safe mode" and is achieved
                                          with the crank key way placed
                                          straight up at 12 0' clock. This will be
                                          important in the cam installation
                                          phase to avoid bending valves.




  4.6L 2V cylinder heads are not side        The underside of both heads must
specific, however the head you put on     have this plug installed. Patriot
the driver-side of the motor must         installs this one for you, but it doesn't
have this galley plug installed in the    hurt to double check.
back. Otherwise you'll fire up with
zero oil pressure and a big leak. Once
you install the plug mark the heads
(D for Driver side, etc.) so you don't
accidentally install on the wrong side.




  The springs supplied by Patriot are        The cam caps are machined specific
sufficient to .600" lift however we       to each side of the cylinder head and
opted to run the springs                  cannot be interchanged. Mark them
recommended by Comp Cams                  before you remove them so they go
(PN:26113-16). This spring works          back in the exact same location and
                   with all three of there Xtreme Energy     orientation.
                   cams for PI heads.




                      Lower the heads onto the block and        Cole's tip when building any motor
                   install the bolts, or in our case since   is to have both heads on the block
                   we used studs, we'll install the          and alternate your torqueing of the
                   washers and nuts. Use oil or moly         bolts/studs between both heads to
                   under the heads to get a good torque      get even stretch on the block. Work
                   reading.                                  your way out from the inside pair of
                                                             head bolts to the outside, in steps
                   Note also that we have removed the        from 30lb.ft. to 50lb.ft. to the final
                   cam "girdles" from the heads (caps        spec. Remember if you do use the
                   for Windsor Engine Plant heads).Their     OEM TTY head bolts they MUST be
                   locations are unique and cannot be        new, and you have to follow the
                   interchanged along the head or            stretch specification outlined in the
                   between cylinder heads. Mark them         shop manual.
                   before you remove!




                                        Before putting the cams in place position the crankshaft so
   The lash adjusters and            that the keyway is straight up in the 12 o'clock position. This is
followers are set into placed.       considered "safe mode" and unlike on most pushrod motors this
Many opt to install these after      ensures none of the pistons are at Top Dead Center (TDC). This
the cams are in place, however       is important because once the cams are torqued down there will
that will require the use of a       be valves hanging open that can contact a piston in the up
special Ford spring compressor       position.
tool to enable the follower to fit
under the cam lobe. This
method is easier and
acceptable.
                                       Prior to installing the camshaft timing sprockets transfer over
   The cams come in two boxes       the spacers from the stock cams. Then slide on the gears
and are unique to the left and      aligning the keyway. The stock gears have the key cast into the
right side of the motor. Be sure    sprocket while the Fidanza gears (shown) utilize a separate key.
to check the engraving on the       We had to cut the keys down to be flush with the gear because
cam to ensure you've got the        our spacers did not have a keyway slot. We suspect that some
right cam on the right head.        4.6L motors (maybe from the Windsor Engine Plant) utilized a
With the cam lightly oiled, or      slotted spacer which enables for a longer key. We'll pass this
lubed with moly, set the cam        along to Fidanza, maybe they can through two sizes of keys into
girdles (or caps in the case of a   the package.
Windsor head) in position. Snug
the bolts down evenly and then
torque to 89 lbs.in. Read that
carefully, if you torque to foot-
pounds you'll break and warp
the caps.




                                      The next step is to get the cams phased to the crankshaft
  Comp Cam's utilize                position. This is done by installing the timing chains. Unlike on a
M12x1.50mm bolts to retain the      pushrod motor where you simply line up the crank and cam
cam gears. These are also TTY       gears and get the chain on, on overhead cam motors the idea is
bolts and while they should not     the same but the way you carry it out is a little more
be reused we know many guys         complicated to the fact you have two cams, four gears, and they
do. The wiser choice is to just     are spread apart. Lay the chains out on a bench and fold them in
get a new set. We're using          half. You can fold them so the factory copper links are at each
ARP#256-1001, it's the same         end. Cole recommends marking each end link of each chain with
bolt that holds the harmonic        a paint mark to aid assembly.
balancer so pick up three. Use
the stock hardened washer
behind the bolt. You'll need to
hold the cam steady with a big
wrench as shown and torque
the ARP bolts to 60 lb.ft. Make
sure that crank is set to safe-
mode before you turn the cam!




                                      Shown is the timing mark on the crank sprocket. There is one
   Install the driver-side chain    mark but two sprockets. The end links (red marks) must line up
first, as it goes on the rear       dead on with this mark. Note that this timing mark is not the
crank sprocket. Then install the    keyway.
passanger-side chain. Line up
the red marked end links with
the timing marks (NOT the
keyways!) in the crank and cam
gears. You may need to turn
the cam shaft to make this
happen. Don't turn the crank as
it should be keyway-up in safe
mode.




                                     Install the timing chain guides and tensioners (page 3 for tips
  On the cam gears the read       on this) and perform a final check of all the timing marks. The
mark must line up with the 0-     chains wont have full tension until the tensioners are filled with
degree timing mark. Again do      oil, but there is enough to turn the crank now without worry of
not confuse this with the         damaging a valve or piston.
keyway. Note the 12 degrees of
advance or retard possibility
with the Fidanza cam gear.
We'll discuss degreeing the
cams on page 3.




                                      The timing cover can go back into place. The stock
  Before installing the timing    gasket/seal is reusable if it is not torn, however use a dab of
cover be sure to install the      silicone sealer where the cover meets the corners of the cylinder
crank trigger wheel.              heads.




         4.6L 2V Tips and Tricks

         Degreeing Modular Cams
   Cole Cutler shows us some of the        A pair of followers (modified with
tools he has specially modified to      larger holes) enables Cole to set the
make degreeing easier at HCI            lash on his modified adjusters with a
Motorsports. The solid lash adjuster    thin flat-blade screw driver.
here is akin to solid lifter on a
pushrod engine. This enables the cam
to be set to zero-lash.




   You can use a standard degreeing        If you find your measurements are
kit. The process is no different than   off a few degrees from the cam
we've outlined in our Degreeing         specifications the only easy way to
Fundamentals however since there        make the adjustment is with a set of
are two cams you need to perform        Fidanza adjustable gears. We initially
the process twice. Start on one side    set our to 1 degree retard to
with only one of the chains             accommodate for slack in the chain as
connected. Then move over to the        a result of the slightly milled heads.
other side.                             We subsequently moved this back to
                                        straight up as our degree
                                        measurements were spot on with
                                        Comp Cams' cam card for the 262
                                        cam.



4.6L 2V Tips and Tricks




  The timing chain guides should be        Chain tensioners must be
checked for wear and replaced if        compressed before attempting to
neccesary. Cole shows us to look for    reinstall into position. Use a C-clamp
uneven chain rub on the plastic. On     to compress the plunger, then push
high-mileage motors the chains          down the lever (top left) and install a
should also be replaced.                paperclip or small nail in the lock
                                        hole.




  The locked tensioner can then be         Safe Mode is when the crank key
bolted to the block and released by     way is at 12 o' clock. This puts all the
pulling the pin out. Note the           pistons below deck. Top Dead Center
tensioners are marked left and right.   for cylinder #1 is located at about 11
                                        o 'clock (note the TDC mark cast into
                                        the cover.)

				
DOCUMENT INFO
Shared By:
Categories:
Tags:
Stats:
views:14
posted:5/1/2010
language:English
pages:7