Jeff’s Paris Tips: Notes from my stay in France (mostly Paris) Aug 2005-March 2005. Not yet complete or formatted – sorry. Hotels: Hotel K&K Cayre: St. Germane de Pres: 4 stars. Modern and Efficient. In a nice area. Nice but 20E breakfast. Ask to exclude this from rate if you think it’s too high. Expect to pay around 199 E per night. Everyone will be happy here. Villa Beamarchais. 5 reu des Arquebusiers. Near the Bastille, Marais, and Place des Voges. 4 stars. Older hotel, nice breakfast. Internet rates. No internet. Around 179 E per night on internet rates. Hotel Victoires Opéra (56 ree Montorgueil, 75002 Paris; +33 (0)1 42 36 41 08; Hotel@victoiresopera.com; www.victoiresopera.com) Perfect location right on rue Montorgueil. Only 24 room boutique 4start hotel. Around 215€. Claims to have wireless internet. Looks nice. Hotel Majestic: Near the Arch de Triumph. Great if you are working in that area, but otherwise not the most exciting location. (around 200€ with breakfast). A little old and strange, but very clean. Large rooms. Hotel Relais Bosquet Tour Eiffel, 19 rue de Champs de Mars (01 47 05 25 45). A Rick Steves pick right off the Rue Claire. It is near the Ecole Militare metro stop on Line No. 8. (Around 140 -160€) Hotel des Archives (87 rue des Archives, 75003; 01 44 78 08 00). Nice ultra-modern 3 start hotel at the intersection of rue de Bretagne and rue des Archives in the Marais. Tiny but sheik. Cool aircon and flat screens. Good breakfast. Around 110-140€, singledouble. A good recommend, especially for single (because rooms are small). www.hoteldesarchives.com. Hotel Le General, (5/7 rue du Rampon, 75010; 01 47 00 41 57 ) closer to the place du Republic is similar.
Restaurants: Good for Business Expense Account type dinners: La Butte Chaillot (near Arc de Triumpth and Kleber Street; 110 bis, avenue Kleber – 75116, 01 47 27 88 88). Good for a business dinner or Lunch. Private rooms for meetings. Nabuchodonosor (in the 16th, not too far from Kleber - cab ride – 6 Ave Bosquet). Fine food in a typical French restaurant. Menu for 30€.
Le Sud (91 BdGouvion Saint-Cyr, 75017, Paris – 01 45 74 02 77) Cuisine from the South of France. Light and airy place, with very nice food and friendly service. Expect to pay around 45€ for 3 courses without wine. Not far from La Defense Chez Livio – (6 Rue de Longchamp, 92200 Neuilly/Seine – 01 46 24 81 32); Good Italian, Individual Pizza, good salads, Casual business dinner or lunch a metro stop away from La Defense. Around 25€ with wine. Bistrot Vivienne (4 Rue des Petits Champs, 75002 – 01 49 27 50). Authentic French Bistrot on the beautiful Gallery Vivienne, near the Palais Royal. Around 25€ with wine. Near Maris / Rue Montorgueil: Rue Montorgueil: A perfect short street to stroll, shop, eat, and see and be seen. Near Les Halles, intersects Etienne Marcel. Always a happen’n place. Lots of places to eat, drink and chill. Les Petitc Carreaux, at the end of the Rue, away from the crowd. Casual, good food and price. Nice music and people. Nothing special, but very easy. Fine for single diners. Less than 22€ with wine. Foody’s Brunch Café: (26 rue Montorgueil, Metro Les Halles). Perfect place for a healthy and check fresh salad bar and soup type lunch for 6-8€. Nice café to sit outside and watch the action Rue Tiquetonne. Here’s a nice small street connecting Turbigo with Rue Montorgueil near the Etienne Marcel Metro lined with casual restaurants. Ojilou: 29 rue Tiquetonne 75002 Paris. (01 40 26 94 85) Typical French menu, but a small intimate place, that’s friendly and not expensive. Expect around 30€ or less with wine. OK for single. 24€ menu. Duck is a winner, lamb also good. Save room for profiterales for dessert. Le Loup Blanc: 42 rue Tiquetonne 75002 Paris (01 40 13 08 35) Just across the rue from Ojilou. Not as formal, a best less expensive, trendier and crowded, but food not as good. Innovative menu. Hip and casual. Around 20-25€ with wine. Sister restaurant Ozo, (37 rue Quincampoix, 75004 – 01 42 77 03) in the Marais near Pompidou Center, is a bit more hip/gay. . PigZ: 5, rue Marie Stuart (01 42 33 05 89). One of the best for food and wine. Very nice, yet tight tables. Expect tres gay, but the best meal around. Around 35-45€ with wine. Rue Mouffetard: Left Bank – Another great market/shopping street to walk and eat. Between the Jardin des Plants and Jardin du Luxembourg. 7 Metro. Place Monge or
Censier stop. Take some money (less than what it would cost to go out) and a little time and imagination and purchase a great dinner to eat in. Plenty of reasonable restaurants too. . Le Bec Fin: 15 rue du Faubourg, Saint-Martin, 75010; 01 42 06 62 82; www.le-becfin.com; ) Casual cous cous place near the Porte St. Martin. Around 20€ with wine.
In the Marais: Le Potager du Marais; 22 Rue Rambuteau, 75003; 01 42 74 24 66. Organic vegetarian place in the center of Marais. Very popular. Killer eggplant parmesan. Around 20€ with win. Soleil en Cave: 21, rue Rambetaeau (01 42 72 26 25); A nice wine restaurant. Simple entres and tartines (grilled open faced sandwiches) that go great with wine. Menu around 20€, without wine. Tartines for around 10€. Friendly and Casual. Closed Monday and Tuesday. Little Italy Café: Rue Rambeteau; Lively Italian, friendly and casual. Around 20€ with wine. Places de Voges – beautiful square of grand apartment buildings symmetrically built in the 1600s. Nectarine (16 Place des Voges, 75004; ph: 01 42 77 23 78) Inexpensive quiches and crepes in an inspiring Place de Voges location. Great bargain in an elegant spot. Around 10€. Next door Café HUGO’s is also nice for a light meal, great place to sit outside. La Mule du Pape: Near Places de voges (8, rue du Pas de la Mule, 75003 Paris; 01 42 74 55 88; www.la-mule-du-pape.com; ) Nice casual inexpensive place for a light meal. Great desserts. Expect to pay around 15-20€ with wine. OK for single La Fontaine Gourmand. (11 rue Charlot, 75003; ph 01 42 78 72 40). Nice little place with great food and reasonable prices for the quality. Highly recommended. Casual. Lesbian friendly/owned, lunch menu, worth going a few streets out of the way. 30€ to 40€ with desert and wine. Make a reservation. Le 3 (3 rue Ste Croix de la Brentonnerie, 75004; ph 01 42 74 71 52). Fine food in the heart of the Marais. As close to gourmet as you’ll find in the area. Around 40€ with wine. Le Rouge Gorge (8, rue St Paul; ph 01 48 04 75 89 ; Metro St-Paul). This is a great find of a neighborhood wine restaurant. Food is nice too. (Try the duck) Patrons are
encouraged to go down into the cave and select their wine for dinner. Or let them pick by the glass by course. About 40€ with wine. La Belle Hortense (31 rue Vielle du Temple ; 01 48 04 71 60) Nice wine bar in the heart of the Marais. A good place to try multiple wines by the glass at affordable prices. Open every day after 5 pm.
Need a haircut? We went to Sing coiffeur. (38, rue du Roe de Sicile, 75004 ph : 01 42 78 29 37), near hotel de Ville. Around 26€ for a mens haircut. You are supposed to tip. Ask for Sing. He is the best.
Jardin du Luxembourg. Great place to hang out in the sun (nice chairs provided), read a book and watch people. If the weather and the breeze is right, there will be children and granddads sailing model boats in the pond. The senate building is a beautiful architectural backdrop. Place Royal: Another great place to chill with a book. Intimate space to relax with your neighbors in the palace courtyard around the fountain in the nice chairs provided. Food Market: Sunday Morning just north of the Bastille at Blvd Richard Lenior. Canal St. Martin. Looking for a hip place, undiscovered by tourist where the locals hang? Head for the Canal St. Martin neighborhood in the 10th. Unique shops and restaurants along the canal feel like a cross between Freemont (Seattle) and Amsterdam. Sunday afternoon may be best, as the streets are closed to traffic, and stores open after lunch. Check out Antoine et Lili stores and tea room at 15, rue Jean Poulmarch. Sesame also a good choice for brunch. 51 Quai De Valmy. (01 42 49 03 21) Paris-walks.com: This English tour company leads historic 2 hour walks around Paris for around 10€. I enjoyed my Divinci Code walk in Jan 05. A great way to get out and learn the history. I hope to walk with them again. Check out the website for schedule of walks every day. Jeff’s Museum Picks : (great museums you can see in a few hours without being overwhelmed) Musee Jacquemart Andre (158 blvd Haussmann, 75008 Paris, 01.45.62.11.59): A wonderful small museum / mansion that belonged to a wealthy patron of the arts around the turn of the century. The home is maintained in it’s original form and for about 8€ (includes audio guide) you can see how the “upper middle class” of Paris lived, and entertained. Not to mention the famous art work that fills the mansion. A great way to spend 2 hours. In the 8th, not too far from Arc de Triomhe. 8.5€ including narration device.
Musee Rodin: Near Ecole Militare. View Rodin sculptures in the mansion where Rodin actually worked. Much of the artwork is in the garden (and only 2€ to see must the garden! – perfect for quick culture on a nice day). You can see the entire place in less than two hours and have a complete feel for the work of Rodin. Musee Picasso: In the Marais Another great 2 hours museum that will give you a complete understanding of the humor and tragedy in the work of Picasso, as well as a feel for his scandalous life. In a grand mansion (Hotel). Musee d’Orsey If you must see just one grand museum, this is the one to try. The space is beautiful – in an old train station – with works of all the masters focusing on impressionist art. Books: Paris Eats Paris: (Sandra Gustafson’s $15). If you’re going to be in Paris for awhile, I’ve found this book quite valuable. List recommended restaurants by arrondisment, with map and great description. Avoids the tourist crap and goes right for the affordable neighbood bistros we all want to find. The Dinvinci Code (Dan Brown): A great Paris read, as it takes place mostly here in the city. Other Picks: Almost French, Paris to the Moon, Me Talk Pretty One Day Elsewhere in France: Chateaux of the Loire: Acco-Dispo (www.accodispo-tours.com, 06 82 00 64) offers half and full day van trips to various chateau. You can take the TGV from Paris to Tours in the morning and be back in Paris for dinner. The full day tour 49€ takes you into 4 castles and drives you past at least 4 others. An abbreviated way to see the Cheateaux of the Loire. Total day will cost you around 170€ or so, once you add up the train, entrance fees, tour and lunch.
Avignon: Avignon’s an interesting midevil walled city worth about a day and night of travel time. If you go, and are a wine lover don’t miss: La Cave Breysse – A wonderful wine bar right across from the Waterwheel on Rue des Teinturies. It’s only open around lunch time, or 6 to 10:30 pm, but I guarantee this is the coolest tip you find. In the summer you can sit our stand out by the waterwheel, in the winter you’ll be fumigated by all the smoke, but nowhere will you find such a hip place to interact with locals over an inexpensive glass of great wine. The aged hippy looking proprietor’s got beaucoup varieties of wine by the glass to try for under 3€.
The Palace of the Popes wine tasting room was the only place I found where you could taste and buy the famous Cheateauneuf du Pape and other great Cote du Rhone varietals. You don’t need to tour the entire Palace, as you are welcome to enter the wine shop off the small square just behind the Palace (where the grand Hotel Mirande is located. Prices seem fair for purchase also. Hotel de L’Horloge (Place de l’HOrloge, 04 90 16 42 00) is a fair 3 star in a good location. 80 Euros for a simple double. El Cid bar below is the most happen’ place. Le Caveau du Theatre (16 rue des Trois Faucons; 04 90 82 60 91) and Les Bistro des Arts (24 rue des Lices; 04 90 85 67 21) are good eating choices not far from the Waterwheel. Cote du Rhone: Vaison-la-Romaine is nice if you can stay above in the old midevil town. The lower town has activity for strolling, shopping and dinner. Hostellerie le Beffroi. Is a great bet for lodging. 3 Stars, pool, view, nice restaurant. 80-130€.
Aix en Provence A pretty city of never ending pleasant squares and restaurants, with sunshine year round. Aix is also worth about a full day and evenings worth of visit time. See the markets in the morning (before 1) and the shops in the afternoon. While most will prefer to rent a house nearby in the country, if you do need a hotel, The Hotel Saint Christophe is a wonderful budget choice. I’m sure it’s the nicest two star in all of France. Just off the main rotunda at 2 Ave Victor Hugo. (+33 (0)4 42 26 01 24; www.hotel-staintchristophe.com). Around 70€. Again, my tip is for wine lovers. Le Petit Verdot is a perfect dinner choice. The 3 course menu of gourmet choices is wonderful, but the real draw here is the bar à vin. Let the madam (who runs a tight ship) select the wine for you by course. She sells wine by the glass at no markup from the bottle price (1/5). You cannot stop by just for wine, as she only allows wine with dinner and requires a reservation. Expect around 30€ with wine. (7, rue Entrecasteaux, 04 42 27 30 12)