SLAMMED Magazine
September 2003
(Three-part piece on tea)
On The Loose
Seeking a menu item that brings in profit as well as customer interest at a low cost?
Consider loose leaf tea.
By: Jennifer Adams
With mention of tea’s health benefits and variety of choices on the rise, so is consumer
interest in this diversified beverage. Specialty tea bars like Tealuxe are bringing tea out
from coffee’s shadow into the forefront of beverage selection. Consumer demand for tea
has many restaurants adding a proper tea service to their menus.
No longer is tea preparation about dunking a tea bag into a coffee cup of hot water. Many
restaurants are including a mildly formal tea service, in which they serve quality loose
leaf teas, without high cost and nuisance for the wait staff.
Joseph Simrany, president of the Tea Council of the United States, states that overall tea
sales have increased from $1.84 Billion in 1990, to $5.03 Billion in 2002, with food
service tea sales increasing from $0.5 Billion to $0.8 Billion.
Simrany attributes this increase to a newfound awareness for tea. ―Because of the
availability of information on the Internet, the American consumer is gaining knowledge
about specialty teas, and are therefore demanding it,‖ Simrany says. ―Consumers are
driven to think about tea more than in the past.‖ With this emergence of the knowledge,
he states that there is a tremendous potential for tea.
Mark Mooradian realized this potential three years ago when he left Espresso Express to
open MEM Tea Imports, after noticing a dramatic change in the public interest of tea.
MEM Tea Imports sells 50 quality loose leaf teas from China, India, and Japan, 11 of
which are custom blends. In addition, they are the exclusive importer for Ancient
Herbals, a line from the Middle East.
Currently they have 200-300 accounts, including Hamersley's Bistro, Legal Sea Foods,
The Federalist, Radius, Pho République and Deluxe Town Diner. And business has been
favorable—sales have doubled from three years ago.
Mooradian explains that the cost is so low that any restaurant can afford a tea service.
―The average cost to the restaurant per two-cup tea pot is $0.20, for which they charge
between $2.50 and $4.00.‖ He reports that some restaurants are selling more potted tea
than coffee or espresso. ―Something is happening,‖ he hints. ―It is getting big.‖
To prepare restaurants for their own unique tea service, Mooradian meets with the
interested party for a tea tasting. Such a meeting occurred with Jim Becker, the General
Manager of Caffè Umbra in the South End of Boston. At this meeting Mooradian and
Becker tasted a variety of teas, discussed the concept of the restaurant, the food, and teas
that would compliment both. To enhance the French and Italian cuisine, they chose a
variety of herbals that are popular blends in Europe, especially in France.
Next, Mooradian held a complimentary training with the staff of Caffè Umbra, to address
the characteristics of each tea, serving techniques, dosages, brewing times, and which
accompaniments pair well with each. MEM Tea Imports also offers the supplies needed
to enhance the desired atmosphere of the tea service. In addition to vacuum-packed teas,
they supplied Caffè Umbra with labeled storage tins, teapots, and a BUNN tea brewer
that yields filtered water at 212°F, the suggested temperature for perfect brewing.
Mooradian estimates that the initial cost to set up a tea service with a selection of five
teas and teapots is between $200 and $500.
Becker shares that they’ve received an excellent return. He calculates that they normally
replenish the teas once a month, and more often during colder months when the demand
is higher. He also notes that people appreciate the variety of decaffeinated beverages
Caffè Umbra now offers. And, he admits that it was not a nuisance to set up a tea service
area since they already had a station for the French press coffee.
Another restaurant experiencing the perks of a tea menu is Elements in Arlington. Penny
Lamb, Elements’ General Manager explains how a desire to revamp the overall identity
of the restaurant was enhanced by an extensive tea menu.
―Elements is owned and run by the same people that were involved with Tea-Tray in the
Sky (both Cambridge and Arlington locations). Elements evolved from Tea-Tray due to a
desire to place the restaurant more in people’s minds as a fine dining restaurant, rather
than a tea cafe or lunch destination. We believe that tea is a great accompaniment to a
great meal, and that its many nuances add so much to the dining experience, just as a
great bottle of wine does. Different teas have different attributes that can be paired very
nicely with every dish, just like wine.‖
Lamb believes that only loose leaf tea produces the best pot of tea. She states that
Elements deals with many different tea merchants, some local some national, and some
international. ―We have up to ten different sources.‖
Elements’ tea menu boasts approximately 100 different teas, which seems appropriate for
their patrons. ―We have many guests who are tea fanatics and we also have a lot of
people who still enjoy the novelty of tea. Our tea list is something that no other restaurant
around here has, so it is something different that we can offer our customers. They
generally seem to be intrigued by it, as well open to learning more about the attributes of
adding such a wide variety of tea to the dining experience.‖
And, as with some menu additions, sometimes modifications must be made to improve
service. ―Guests would often get frustrated by the length of time it took for their tea to be
brewed, timed, strained and served out of their sight. Now they receive their tea in a
timelier manner and also get to participate in the brewing.‖
―In our tea service we use modern stainless steel pots with infusion baskets inside. The
pots are brought to the table with hourglass timers that allow the customer to participate
in the tea brewing process. Each timer is one, two, three or five minutes depending on the
type of tea being served. The guest waits until the sand has run through the timer and then
pours their cup from the pot. We used to use a different method, which took a lot more
time for the tea to actually get to the table.‖
Tea has been around for nearly 5,000 years–it is not a beverage that will go out of style.
Joseph Simrany boasts that ―no other food or beverage item offers greater profit
potential‖. He figures that ―Boston is ground zero for tea, but there is potential. It’s a
good market for tea. The climate, most of the time during the year, demands a hot
beverage. Most tea research is coming out of Boston, so it’s only fitting that consumers
discover those benefits as well.‖
Tea Tips
By: Jennifer Adams
All tea leaves are plucked from the Camellia Sinensis plant, and are named after the
regions and estates that produce them. Each tea’s color, aroma, and flavor stem from
where it’s grown, and how it’s processed. Black tea is withered, rolled, and fermented,
and grown in locations like Sri Lanka and India. Oolong tea is withered, rolled, and
partially fermented, and produced in China and Taiwan. Green tea is unfermented, and is
instead steamed and air dried, and is mostly grown in China and Japan. Unopened buds
found atop tea plants in China that are withered and air dried form White tea. Herbal tea,
also known as tisane, is not actually a tea since it is derived from herb, flower, and spice
infusions, and not the Camellia Sinensis plant. Since there are about 3,000 varieties of
tea, below two tea experts share know how about choosing and brewing the tantalizing
teas offered by their companies.
Notting Hall, a purveyor and retailer of specialty loose-leaf teas from tea plantations
throughout the world, is just approaching the food service industry. Maureen Ryan
declares that Notting Hall’s mission is to educate and provide good quality, premium tea
so no one will ever have to settle for an ordinary cup again.
―Food pairing with teas is very much like food pairing with wines and like fine wines, tea
offers all the nuances and subtleties of flavor,‖ Ryan says. With this in mind, she
recommends the following pairings:
Pair Darjeelings, Keemuns, light-bodied blacks, greens, and oolongs with fish and
poultry
Pair Darjeelings, Yunnans, pu-erh, strong flavoured greens such as Gunpowder
with beef, pork, and veal
Pair Spicy, strong black teas, smoky blacks, pu-erh, and chai with spicy foods
Pair Fruit flavored greens and blacks with desserts
Ryan’s Notting Hall picks for restaurants considering serving specialty teas are:
Black Currant: Notting Hall's most popular flavored black is naturally sweet and
delicious. Bring water to a ―rolling boil‖ (200° to 210°) and brew tea for 3 to 5
minutes.
Darjeeling 2nd flush, from the MIM Estate, is a full-bodied classic black tea. Bring
water to a ―rolling boil‖ (200° to 210°) and brew tea for 3 to 5 minutes.
Jasmine Petals, from China, is a "must have" flavored green tea in every tea
repertoire, and is very fragrant with a delicate brew. Bring water to ―below the boil‖
(160° to 180°) and brew tea for 2 to 3 minutes.
Lung Ching (or Dragonwell), the most renown of all China classis green teas, is
hand-plucked with a delicate golden brew. Bring water to just ―below the boil‖
(160° to 180°) and brew tea for 2 to 3 minutes.
Ti Quan Yin (or Iron Goddess of Mercy), from China, this wonderfully fragrant
classis oolong tea is light and smooth. Water should just ―reach a boil‖ (180° to
190°) and brew tea for 3 to 5 minutes.
Summer Bouquet is a caffeine-free tisane that is a fruity, floral delight blended with
Rooibos from South Africa. Bring water to a ―rolling boil‖ (200° to 210°) and brew
tea for 5 minutes.
(Notting Hall, the Place for Tea, PO Box 343, Boston, MA 02137, www.nottinghall.com)
The Tea that Binds
By: Jennifer Adams
Patience, a sense of humor, and a strong will are just a few of the traits family members need if
they’re going to work together at building a successful business. Or, as the Harney and Bigelow
families from Connecticut have shown, all it takes is a masterful cup of tea.
Around 55 years ago, in New York City, Ruth C. Bigelow and her husband, David
created an unnamed tea, flavored with orange rind and sweet spice, based on a recipe
from the Old South. After this tea was served at a gathering for the city’s elite, the
hostess shared that the tea had been the ―constant comment‖ at the party, and thus the
name of Bigelow’s first tea was born. Over 50 varieties later, ―Constant Comment‖ is
now the number one selling specialty tea in the United States. The company is still owned
and managed by the Bigelow’s son, David, his wife Eunice, and their daughters Lori and
Cindi. Today, R.C. Bigelow is the #1 selling specialty tea in foodservice. Cindi
recommends Earl Grey, English Teatime, and Green Tea as the three top food service
items.
Another Connecticut tea purveyor that’s a family affair is Harney & Sons Fine Teas.
Twenty years ago, John Harney vowed to ―sell tea at a great price that would make it an
everyday luxury.‖ And with clients like the Ritz Carlton, it appears as though he has. To
maintain this high standard, his sons Michael and Paul, travel worldwide to the
homelands of their teas for tastings, and to witness production firsthand. And, their tastes
are not uncommon. A Travelocity survey named their Tea Tasting Room among the top
ten travel destinations in Connecticut. For the 2003 Season, they recommend Selim Hill
Organic Darjeeling, Lung Ching, Blooming Green Peonies, and Jin Xuan Oolong.
If interested in serving up some of this tradition, contact the following:
R.C. Bigelow: As mentioned on http://www.bigelowtea.com, foodservice cases are carried by
nearly every major foodservice distributor in the country. If your coffee program is handled by a
local coffee roaster, check with them as well since Bigelow Teas are sold through most route
sales coffee roasters too.
Harney & Sons Fine Teas: Call 1-888-HARNEYT or e-mail: ht@harney.com