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					COSMETICS IN SUB SAHARAN
  AFRICA: USE OR ABUSE?

Dr. E. J. Masenga, MD, M.Med, M.Phil.
         Dermato-
         Dermato-Venereologist
Regional Dermatology Training Centre
    (RDTC), KCMC Moshi Tanzania
    (RDTC) KCMC, M hi T         i
                 2007
           DEFINITION
Article applied to Human body
Purpose: Beauty? Attraction?
Purpose: To conceal a certain defect
May alter appearance
Should not influence the Skin structure
Should not influence the skin Function
          Cosmetae
         “Cosmetae”
     Range of substances
Ointments Creams,
Ointments, Creams and Lotions
Powders (“Lukaria”)
P li h    (Nails)
Polishers (N il )
Stickers (Lips)
Deodorants/Sprays
Permanent waves and hair colours
          g     you         ,    y
“God hath given y one face, and you make
yourselves another” William Shakespeare
Drug: Differs from cosmetics?

Drug: Capable of treating diseases
Drug: Prevents some diseases !
Drug: Alters the function
Drug: Alt
D            the t t
      Alters th structure
Effect of drugs and not cosmetics!
                    why?-
                      y
Which Cosmetics and why?-1
Lipsticks: used to stain the lip for a longer
        effect.
lasting effect
Liquid foundation (Lotions): May color or
             skin
lightens the skin. It may conceal flaws to
give an impression of Health and youth!
Cream foundation: acts the same as
liquids but has a more full coverage.
                               skin,
Powder: Absorb oil from the skin giving a
matte finish
        (Deodorants,
Smells (Deodorants sprays etc)
                    why?-
Which Cosmetics and why?- 2
Blusher (Rouge): Colour the cheeks and
emphasize the cheekbones (Can be
p                 gel)
powder, cream or g )
                               sun-
Bronzer: Create more tanned or sun-
kissed look!
Mascara: Enhance the eyelashes
Eye shadow: colour and emphasizes the
eyelids making the eye appear relatively
   g (sign youth)
larger ( g of y     )
                    why?-
Which Cosmetics and why?- 3
Nail polish: Colour the finger and toenails
Concealer: Cover a defect eg. Pimples
and spots (Paste – thick opaque)
Cosmetic coloured contact lenses:
Ch              l
Change eye colour
      Cosmetics: History 1
As long as there has been people to use
them!!!
                       3, 13-14,
Songs of Solomon 1: 3 1: 13-14 4: 10
Ezekiel 23: 40, Proverbs 27: 9
Early Egyptian civilization: Cat fat, green
Cu, Pb or black Mn or Henna (10000BC)
Cedar oil considered sacred, hence the
p     p
principal oil for mummification
        Songs of Solomon 1: 3
                  g
  “Because of fragrance of yyour ggood
   ointments, your name is ointment
poured forth; therefore the virgins loves
                  you.”

           Proverbs 27:9
  “Ointment and Perfume rejoice the
  “Oi t   t dP f          j i th
               heart”
     Cosmetics: History 2
                                  Gods.
Greeks: Perfumes = scents of Gods Used
as incense but also for sexual practices
and medicine (370BC)
Rome: Perfume merchants accorded the
                                dye,
same status as doctors (Hair dye animal
fat, milk, eggs sour wines etc.)
Far E t C
F East: Ceremonial b          f incense
                    i l burn of i
What about Sub Saharan Africa?
In Summary: How should one view
                i ?
          cosmetics?
It is NOT bad to make yourself beautiful
It is NOT bad to make yourself attractive
It is NOT bad to wear a nice smell
It is Not bad to make your skin appear
smoother and childish!
It is ONLY bad when you interfere with the
normal anatomy and physiology!!
It is ONLY bad when you think cosmetics
are 100% safe!!
Cosmetic Hazards: What does the
                  h ?
         past teach us?
                                Hg-
Ancient Egyptians poisoned by Hg-laden
face powder
                                 Lash
American star (1933) blinded by ‘Lash
lure’ used to darken eye lashes
Lead poisoning: from hair dyes which turn
hair grey.
Old mascara: Blindness from bacterial
infections
What about Ambi products in E. Africa?
Cosmetics Hazards: What does
     present teach us?
Good but watch for irritations! (Polytars)
Good, but watch for allergic reactions
Good, but watch for Acne Cosmetica (Isopropyl
myristate additive in many commercial
moisturizers
Good, but Watch for Formaldehyde
           ti   in      h
preservatives i your shampoo
Good, but watch out for hostile bacteria when
shelf life is over!
Good, but be aware carcinogenicity! (CCTs,
alpha & beta Hydroxy acids etc.)
Developing Africa: Is it “Cosmetic”
                 b
         use or abuse?   ?
                      Lukaria
The Maasai make up: “Lukaria’’ etc. May
be OK.
     Henna application
The ‘Henna application’ by our costal
ladies May be OK
What about these scores of chemicals
which change our ladies hairs? What often
   pp                            p
happen to the sores on their scalps?
What about these bleaching agents which
      pg
robe pigments from our ladies skin?
Decreasing Pigmentation:
 What are they using?

  Phenolic Compounds
     Hydroquinones
    4-Methoxyphenol
         g g
Decreasing Pigmentation:
 What are they using?
  Non-p              p
  Non-phenolic compounds
       Cortico steroids
    Mercury compounds
    M                   d
        Retinoic acid
        Azelaic Acid
                          patch,
You mask a tiny pigmented patch you create huge less pigmented surrounding
          g
 Decreasing
Pigmentation
Range Of Bleachers
 0.5-1% Lactic acid
 0.5-
  2-5% Acetic Acid
  0.5-
  0.5-1.5% Na OH
  2-5% Resorcinol
    Decreasing
   Pigmentation
    Combination Formula
Hydroquinone + Cortico Steroids
   Retin A + Cortico steroids
   Gentle Freezing (Additive)
  “Cosmetics” in some modern African
    society: Progress or Confusion?

The famous Raw materials!!
  y q
 Hydroquinone
 Cortico steroids
 H C
 Hg Compounds  d
     e Cement
 White Ce e
 Bleachers - “JIK”
 Alkalines etc. etc.
        Cosmetics :
Common “Cosmetics”: Steroids
 Diprosone             Skin Success
 Mediven               Top Society
 Betnovate             Jaribu
 Dermovate             Fair& Lovely
 Betacort
 B t     t             Dark & Lovely
 Diprosone/Diprosali   First Class Lady
 c                     Soft & Beautiful
 Maxobeta              Age Renewal
 S    l
 Synalar               B     tif l Beginning
                       Beautiful B i i
 Movate/Lermovate
     Common “Cosmetics”:
         Quinones
                    Mrembo med.cream
Mekako cream
                    Madona med.cream
Rico cream
                         med
                    Kiss med. Cream
Tura cream
                    Lady Claire
Miki Beauty cream
                    Fair & White
Ultra Clear soap
                    Clear Essence
Butone cream
                    Jaribu Malaika
                    Jaribu, Malaika,
Body Clear gel
                    Princes, Zarina etc.
Watch the warning!!
          Cosmetics :
  Common “Cosmetics”: Hg
Mekako soap   Jaribu soap
Rico soap     Fair Lady soap
Amira soap    Elegance soap
Miki soap     Binti Jambo soap
Movate soap            Med
              Pimplex Med. cream
      Cosmetologists     action-
  Tz “Cosmetologists” in action-1
                         Jaribu Soap (Boil) +
Tura Lotion + Glycerin
                         Jaribu cream +
        Apply-
lotion: Apply- BD
                         Colgate (
                            g              )
                                  (1/2 tube) +
Movate cream +           JIK + Any Lotion:
Dermovate + Mekako:      What next?? Koroga
Apply prn                sana, Then BD! =
Dermovate + Revlon +     “Mkorogo Special”
JIK + OMO Soap =         Hamira Lotion +
“MKOROGO”: BD            Hamira Cream: Boil
                         then Apply Bd = ‘’ ITV
                         Special”.
    Cosmetologists     action-
Tz “Cosmetologists” in action-2
Cocoa Butter + Rico     Any Steroid cream
soap (Boiled) + White   ( Kenyan Dermovate)
Rose Cream + Jaribu     + Any Lotion + Water
Cream: Apply prn!       + Hydrogen Peroxide:
Wash the whole body     “Saloon Special”
with Unga wa Dengu!     Rico Soap (1 Bar) +
Use Ice cold water:     Jaribu cream(1 tube)
Apply OD or BD          + Top Society Lotion:
                        Apply prn
    Cosmetologists     action-
Tz “Cosmetologists” in action-3

Jaribu Soap crushed in a Bathtub + JIK
Add White Cement: Enjoy your Bath for a
couple of Minutes - Hours preferably
nocte: Kesho yake mambo tayari
 TZ Cosmetologists :
“TZ Cosmetologists”: Achievement?


Destroy Melanocytes
Arrests Melanogenesis
Allergic Contact Dermatitis
Irritant contact dermatitis
CUTANOUS ATROPHY and the
related outcome
“UKINGO” and the related outcome
    Cosmetics :
   “Cosmetics”: Side Effects

Allergic Contact
Dermatitis?
Irritant Contact
Dermatitis?
Trying to mask
   s t go
his vitiligo
    Cosmetics :
   “Cosmetics”: Side Effects

Various degrees of
Cutaneous atrophy
              p y

Dermal and/or
Epidermal atrophy

Striae
    Cosmetics :
   “Cosmetics”: Side Effects

Tinea Faciei

Tinea incognito

Steroid induced acne
Innocent student after tuition on how to treat her puberty Acne!
    Cosmetics :
   “Cosmetics”: Side Effects

Telangiectasia
Easy bruises
Steroid Acnes
Peri-
Peri-oral dermatitis
Rosacea
    Cosmetics :
   “Cosmetics”: Side Effects

Peri follicular Hyper
pg
pigmentation
Ochronosis
Heavy metal tattoing
(Hg Co Fe Mn Ti Cd )
  ep ot c Syndrome
Nephrotic Sy d o e
What is the source of all this?
Ignorance
Liberalization of trade
Corruption with th b i
C      ti     ith the business owners
Weak legal systems to arrest the flow of
these substances
                   y    q             y
Users mislead by the quick results they
are looking for
      What are we doing?
           Food,
Tanzania Food Drug and Cosmetic
Authority with Relevant Technical Advisers
Regional Conferences with experts in
various African countries sponsoured by
                              eg. L Oreal
some big cosmetic industries eg L'Oreal
Mass inspection of Pharmaceutical shops
Mass media (Radio, TV, Papers etc.)
                   p
Distribution of simple Booklets
         RDTC




ASANTE          DANKE!

				
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