COSMETICS IN SUB SAHARAN AFRICA: USE OR ABUSE? Dr. E. J. Masenga, MD, M.Med, M.Phil. Dermato- Dermato-Venereologist Regional Dermatology Training Centre (RDTC), KCMC Moshi Tanzania (RDTC) KCMC, M hi T i 2007 DEFINITION Article applied to Human body Purpose: Beauty? Attraction? Purpose: To conceal a certain defect May alter appearance Should not influence the Skin structure Should not influence the skin Function Cosmetae “Cosmetae” Range of substances Ointments Creams, Ointments, Creams and Lotions Powders (“Lukaria”) P li h (Nails) Polishers (N il ) Stickers (Lips) Deodorants/Sprays Permanent waves and hair colours g you , y “God hath given y one face, and you make yourselves another” William Shakespeare Drug: Differs from cosmetics? Drug: Capable of treating diseases Drug: Prevents some diseases ! Drug: Alters the function Drug: Alt D the t t Alters th structure Effect of drugs and not cosmetics! why?- y Which Cosmetics and why?-1 Lipsticks: used to stain the lip for a longer effect. lasting effect Liquid foundation (Lotions): May color or skin lightens the skin. It may conceal flaws to give an impression of Health and youth! Cream foundation: acts the same as liquids but has a more full coverage. skin, Powder: Absorb oil from the skin giving a matte finish (Deodorants, Smells (Deodorants sprays etc) why?- Which Cosmetics and why?- 2 Blusher (Rouge): Colour the cheeks and emphasize the cheekbones (Can be p gel) powder, cream or g ) sun- Bronzer: Create more tanned or sun- kissed look! Mascara: Enhance the eyelashes Eye shadow: colour and emphasizes the eyelids making the eye appear relatively g (sign youth) larger ( g of y ) why?- Which Cosmetics and why?- 3 Nail polish: Colour the finger and toenails Concealer: Cover a defect eg. Pimples and spots (Paste – thick opaque) Cosmetic coloured contact lenses: Ch l Change eye colour Cosmetics: History 1 As long as there has been people to use them!!! 3, 13-14, Songs of Solomon 1: 3 1: 13-14 4: 10 Ezekiel 23: 40, Proverbs 27: 9 Early Egyptian civilization: Cat fat, green Cu, Pb or black Mn or Henna (10000BC) Cedar oil considered sacred, hence the p p principal oil for mummification Songs of Solomon 1: 3 g “Because of fragrance of yyour ggood ointments, your name is ointment poured forth; therefore the virgins loves you.” Proverbs 27:9 “Ointment and Perfume rejoice the “Oi t t dP f j i th heart” Cosmetics: History 2 Gods. Greeks: Perfumes = scents of Gods Used as incense but also for sexual practices and medicine (370BC) Rome: Perfume merchants accorded the dye, same status as doctors (Hair dye animal fat, milk, eggs sour wines etc.) Far E t C F East: Ceremonial b f incense i l burn of i What about Sub Saharan Africa? In Summary: How should one view i ? cosmetics? It is NOT bad to make yourself beautiful It is NOT bad to make yourself attractive It is NOT bad to wear a nice smell It is Not bad to make your skin appear smoother and childish! It is ONLY bad when you interfere with the normal anatomy and physiology!! It is ONLY bad when you think cosmetics are 100% safe!! Cosmetic Hazards: What does the h ? past teach us? Hg- Ancient Egyptians poisoned by Hg-laden face powder Lash American star (1933) blinded by ‘Lash lure’ used to darken eye lashes Lead poisoning: from hair dyes which turn hair grey. Old mascara: Blindness from bacterial infections What about Ambi products in E. Africa? Cosmetics Hazards: What does present teach us? Good but watch for irritations! (Polytars) Good, but watch for allergic reactions Good, but watch for Acne Cosmetica (Isopropyl myristate additive in many commercial moisturizers Good, but Watch for Formaldehyde ti in h preservatives i your shampoo Good, but watch out for hostile bacteria when shelf life is over! Good, but be aware carcinogenicity! (CCTs, alpha & beta Hydroxy acids etc.) Developing Africa: Is it “Cosmetic” b use or abuse? ? Lukaria The Maasai make up: “Lukaria’’ etc. May be OK. Henna application The ‘Henna application’ by our costal ladies May be OK What about these scores of chemicals which change our ladies hairs? What often pp p happen to the sores on their scalps? What about these bleaching agents which pg robe pigments from our ladies skin? Decreasing Pigmentation: What are they using? Phenolic Compounds Hydroquinones 4-Methoxyphenol g g Decreasing Pigmentation: What are they using? Non-p p Non-phenolic compounds Cortico steroids Mercury compounds M d Retinoic acid Azelaic Acid patch, You mask a tiny pigmented patch you create huge less pigmented surrounding g Decreasing Pigmentation Range Of Bleachers 0.5-1% Lactic acid 0.5- 2-5% Acetic Acid 0.5- 0.5-1.5% Na OH 2-5% Resorcinol Decreasing Pigmentation Combination Formula Hydroquinone + Cortico Steroids Retin A + Cortico steroids Gentle Freezing (Additive) “Cosmetics” in some modern African society: Progress or Confusion? The famous Raw materials!! y q Hydroquinone Cortico steroids H C Hg Compounds d e Cement White Ce e Bleachers - “JIK” Alkalines etc. etc. Cosmetics : Common “Cosmetics”: Steroids Diprosone Skin Success Mediven Top Society Betnovate Jaribu Dermovate Fair& Lovely Betacort B t t Dark & Lovely Diprosone/Diprosali First Class Lady c Soft & Beautiful Maxobeta Age Renewal S l Synalar B tif l Beginning Beautiful B i i Movate/Lermovate Common “Cosmetics”: Quinones Mrembo med.cream Mekako cream Madona med.cream Rico cream med Kiss med. Cream Tura cream Lady Claire Miki Beauty cream Fair & White Ultra Clear soap Clear Essence Butone cream Jaribu Malaika Jaribu, Malaika, Body Clear gel Princes, Zarina etc. Watch the warning!! Cosmetics : Common “Cosmetics”: Hg Mekako soap Jaribu soap Rico soap Fair Lady soap Amira soap Elegance soap Miki soap Binti Jambo soap Movate soap Med Pimplex Med. cream Cosmetologists action- Tz “Cosmetologists” in action-1 Jaribu Soap (Boil) + Tura Lotion + Glycerin Jaribu cream + Apply- lotion: Apply- BD Colgate ( g ) (1/2 tube) + Movate cream + JIK + Any Lotion: Dermovate + Mekako: What next?? Koroga Apply prn sana, Then BD! = Dermovate + Revlon + “Mkorogo Special” JIK + OMO Soap = Hamira Lotion + “MKOROGO”: BD Hamira Cream: Boil then Apply Bd = ‘’ ITV Special”. Cosmetologists action- Tz “Cosmetologists” in action-2 Cocoa Butter + Rico Any Steroid cream soap (Boiled) + White ( Kenyan Dermovate) Rose Cream + Jaribu + Any Lotion + Water Cream: Apply prn! + Hydrogen Peroxide: Wash the whole body “Saloon Special” with Unga wa Dengu! Rico Soap (1 Bar) + Use Ice cold water: Jaribu cream(1 tube) Apply OD or BD + Top Society Lotion: Apply prn Cosmetologists action- Tz “Cosmetologists” in action-3 Jaribu Soap crushed in a Bathtub + JIK Add White Cement: Enjoy your Bath for a couple of Minutes - Hours preferably nocte: Kesho yake mambo tayari TZ Cosmetologists : “TZ Cosmetologists”: Achievement? Destroy Melanocytes Arrests Melanogenesis Allergic Contact Dermatitis Irritant contact dermatitis CUTANOUS ATROPHY and the related outcome “UKINGO” and the related outcome Cosmetics : “Cosmetics”: Side Effects Allergic Contact Dermatitis? Irritant Contact Dermatitis? Trying to mask s t go his vitiligo Cosmetics : “Cosmetics”: Side Effects Various degrees of Cutaneous atrophy p y Dermal and/or Epidermal atrophy Striae Cosmetics : “Cosmetics”: Side Effects Tinea Faciei Tinea incognito Steroid induced acne Innocent student after tuition on how to treat her puberty Acne! Cosmetics : “Cosmetics”: Side Effects Telangiectasia Easy bruises Steroid Acnes Peri- Peri-oral dermatitis Rosacea Cosmetics : “Cosmetics”: Side Effects Peri follicular Hyper pg pigmentation Ochronosis Heavy metal tattoing (Hg Co Fe Mn Ti Cd ) ep ot c Syndrome Nephrotic Sy d o e What is the source of all this? Ignorance Liberalization of trade Corruption with th b i C ti ith the business owners Weak legal systems to arrest the flow of these substances y q y Users mislead by the quick results they are looking for What are we doing? Food, Tanzania Food Drug and Cosmetic Authority with Relevant Technical Advisers Regional Conferences with experts in various African countries sponsoured by eg. L Oreal some big cosmetic industries eg L'Oreal Mass inspection of Pharmaceutical shops Mass media (Radio, TV, Papers etc.) p Distribution of simple Booklets RDTC ASANTE DANKE!