Margaret and Iain’s guide for visitors to Sarajevo
and Bosnia and Herzegovina
Azize Sacirbegovic 6 (off Zmaje od Bosna)
Tel: 033 226 266
Excellent fish, sold by the kilo; really tasty mixed meat grills; the most delicious Dalmatian
Proscut served with fresh green salad.
Tel: 033 222 207
Tavola is reasonably priced for really delicious food. They serve the best steak in town, the
grilled vegetable plate is an excellent starter and the restaurant has a nice atmosphere. In
warmer weather they open the French windows and the air is relatively smok-free.
Tel: 033 214 996
This is definitely our favourite! It is pricey, compared with other Sarajevo restaurants, but
the décor is nice, like an elegant ski chalet, and the service is impeccable. The food is
delicious and beautifully presented. Try the ostrich carpaccio (from a farm just outside
Sarajevo) and the Mozart balls fro dessert.
Prote Bakovica 12 Bascarsija
Tel: 033 537 020
Dveri is run by a family and is a tiny, cosy restaurant with very few table but a lovely
atmosphere and delicious food.
Maršala Tita 36
Disappointing. Tucked away in a lane off the main street, it has pictures of Bill Clinton and
others on the walls. However, we were not impressed by the food or the surroundings.
The rissotto was not properly cooked, and the desserts plastic. The gnocchi, however, was
Maršala Tita 12
Tel: 666 774
The food here is tasty but nothing special. We went on several occasions and it was never
even remotely full which meant waiters were not paying much attention. Worth a try if
your expectations aren’t high
Tel: 061 911 289
This restaurant bar has funky furniture and tasty food.
Tel: 061 148 867
Ramiz speaks no English but he is a friendly and helpful taxi driver who can always be
Tel: 061 160 159
Marlene and Larry Henderson use this guy, who speaks really good English and is happy
to drive them down to Dubrovnik.
Prof. Fikret Mehovic
Tel: 033 221 278 (work)
061 320 830 (mobile)
Fik is a good teacher (although his handouts are a bit amateurish!). Don’t go on a tour with
Tel: 061 247 224
Samira is a great guide. She is friendly and knowledgeable and well worth her fee. We did
the Front Line Tour and she drove us to the Tunnel Museum and all the key points around
Real estate / places to live
Tel: 061 145 667 (work)
033 223 701
Edin was really helpful, not just in finding a flat but also in translating with the landlady
when we needed to communicate with her.
Tel: 033 214 986
061 537 775
Zumra owns a house with 3 or 4 flats at Tekija 12, near Skendarija. She is friendly and
helpful and is a well-organised and effiecient landlady.
Tel: 033 445 200
We haven’t actually stayed here but it is very central, not in the old town but handy for
Buy Books and the Europa Cinema (Obala Meeting Point). We ate in the restaurant and it
was good but not excellent.
Senad od Bosne
Jezero Modrac, Prokosovici, Lukovac (12 km from Tuzla)
Tel: 035 553 222
The setting of this hotel is gorgeous, as it looks over a lake (unfortunately the lake is
polluted and the shore near the hotel is concrete and ugly). Waking up on a misty morning
and watching the sun come up as the birds call is a treat – as is sitting on the balcony with
a cold beer at the end of the day watching the mist roll in and the sun set.
Tel: 036 386 777
I stayed here when I was in Mostar. It was OK.
Slobodana Kokanović 5, Banja Luka
Tel: 051 334 800
A nice modern hotel in Banja Luka with views of the castle.
034 201 054
The best Café au Lait I had in Bosnia was served at breakfast. Otherwise an unremarkable
Mis Irbina 26
Tel: 033 211 445
Ask for Dragana, although she teaches most of the time.
Tel: 033 221 233
Ask for Senka, who speaks no English but has excellent German and gives a very good
Dr Alma Bušatlić
Alma is the High Representative’s dentist. She was efficient and kind – I had stop-gap
treatment so I don’t know how it would be if you needed major work done.
Šenoina 16 (off Maršala Tita)
061 819 045
Very smokey at times, but friendly staff and good coffee. Offer 21 computers and high-
speed Internet access. The walls are hung with pictures of Sarajevo taken during the war
and made into postcards. The staff play a diverse and interesting range of music; I
discovered some new – and now favourite – artists simply from hearing their songs
played whilst surfing.
Fruit and vegetables
The Markale market on Mula Mustafe Bešeskije has a couple of dozen stalls selling fresh
fruit and veg. Get to know one or two sellers, and they will ensure you get the best of their
Newspapers and books
Has an interesting selection of English language guides and histories of Bosnia and the
Balkans as well as a wide selection of English language novels.
Mula Mustafe Bašeskije 1
Has nearly the major London papers, including the Sunday papers (which are available on
the following Tuesday).
Gifts and Souvenirs
VI Puriš Elvedin
Tel: 061 842 357
We bought our watercolour of Sarajevo here.
Tel: 061 207 540
The carpet man who apparently has a lot of women carpet weavers who make up carpets
for him to turn into bags and rugs and coasters. He has a rathe acerbic personality but
once he warms up will show you his favourite pieces and get out kilim books to show
what the whole rug once looked like.
Tel: 232 355
This shop has strings of natural pearls, luscious corals, semi-precious gems, amber and
hadn-made rings. We bought a necklace of hammered silver beads and malachyte and
other silver/black/white beads we couldn’t recognise which had been strung together to
make a very special piece. We bought a grey/green jade necklace with a centrepice of
silver and agate and a lovely silve ring set with three dark red/brown jade stones. The
woman makes them right in the shop and her displays are lovely – if you buy lots, as we
did, she will give you a discount!
Ćurčiluk Veliki 12
Tel: 061 533 022
Predominently an antique shop where they have lovely but impractical linens and
traditional costume, we found beautiful hand-made cards here.