TORONTO LIFE
MARCH 2007 | TORONTOLIFE.COM | TORONTO LIFE
Liquid Assets
Ontario’s reds are making some committed convertswith good reason. A top 10 hit list by: David Lawrason
Could an Ontario red perform at this high level – up on the 54th floor at Canoe, under the nose of crackerjack sommelier Teresa Alampur? She swirled the gleaming, garnet pinot noir and brought the glass to her nose. An “oooh!” escaped as if the wine had left her suddenly winded. The Niagara pinot, Le Clos Jordanne 2004 Le Grand Clos, also wowed 35 Bay Street wine lovers that evening – as did a half dozen other under-the-radar rarities from Canoe’s impressive Ontario list. The province’s wine industry has always rosily promoted its bottles without distinguishing the mediocre (and yes, there’s plenty of it) from the best. But any great wine region floats on the cred of its top-echelon wines, so it’s time to single out the high achievers, political correctness be damned. This winter, I visited 15 Niagara and Prince Edward County wineries that make the province’s finest reds, and I tasted their top 2004s and 2005s. The very best celebrate our cool climate, packing finesse, structure and food-coddling complexity. And their prices truly reflect their quality (as opposed to locality), comparing fairly to the red Burgundies and Bordeaux they most resemble. Granted, they’re not all easy to find and some are made in miniscule quantities. But they’re well worth seeking out. Of the 50-odd top Ontario reds I tasted, here are the 10 best.
3 Flat Rock 2005 Gravity Pinot Noir **** 1/2 $29.95 Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara
Pinot Noir is the only red at this savvy winery overlooking an 80-acre apron of vineyard atop the Niagara Escarpment. The winemakers let gravity gently move the grapes from crusher to fermentation to barrel – especially important for lighter reds like pinot. Aromatic fireworks include piquant cran-cherry-strawberry fruit, toast and leather. Smooth and creamy, yet vibrant in texture, with excellent length. April release at winery only. www.flatrockcellars.com.
4 Malivoire 2004 Moira Vineyard Pinot Noir **** 1/2 $42 Niagara Peninsula
From a single certified organic vineyard run by Martin Malivoire on the Beamsville Bench, this satiny, supple, yet well structured pinot shows fragrant, beguiling aromas of cherry-raspberry fruit, floral notes and dried herbs, plus chocolate and spice from aging in French oak. Fine tannin and excellent flavour focus. Winery only. www.malivoirewineco.com.
5 Tawse 2005 Lincoln Lakeshore Pinot Noir **** 1/2 $35 Niagara Peninsula
Toronto financier Moray Tawse opened his showpiece winery two years ago, aiming high with pinot noir and chardonnay in particular, and retaining Quebec – born Burgundy winemaker Pascal Marchand as consultant. This pinot shows finesse, with gently woven, soft brown spices, woodsmoke, earthy minerality, cran-rhubarb pie fruit and a touch of peppermint. Still youthfully firm and tannic but not overbearing; should reveal real elegance around 2009. Excellent length. Available at the winery in May. www.tawsewinery.ca.
1 Le Clos Jordanne 2004 Pinot Noir Le Grand Clos **** 1/2 $60 - Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Peninsula
The flagship bottling from a new venture between Vincor and Boisset of France, this remarkable wine sets a new Ontario standard for Pinot Noir. Better fruit definition, richness and finesse from this lighter vintage than its Niagara peers, with raspberry-cranberry-beet fruit, sensuous smoke and mocha from quality French oak barrels. Focused fruit from start to (incredibly long) finish. Best 2008 to 2012. Vintages March 3.
6 Stratus 2004 Cabernet Franc ****1/2 $36 Niagara-on-the-Lake
The best of Stratus’ 2004 cabernet franc barrels “didn’t fit” the Stratus Red blend, so the winemaker bottled them on their own instead. It’s lovely – fresh and supple, with raspberry – strawberry fruit, light oak spice and vanilla accents – and without cool-climate cab franc’s leafy greenness. Dense, elegant and very long. A 2005 barrel sample – bottles will be available in about a year – is even more impressive. Winery only.
2 Stratus 2004 Red **** 1/2 $38 Niagara-on-the-Lake
French winemaker, J-L Groux, Niagara’s most experienced crafter of Bordeaux-style red, blends six estate grown, red grape varieties to create this one wine. It hits the palate like a river of silk, a lazy yet manicured flow of currant-raspberry fruit, vanilla, mocha custard and gently spicy flavours. Its charm and grace almost underplay its complexity and depth. Decant if serving soon; should age gracefully through 2012. Order futures now, or try your luck with the winery’s spring release.
7 Rosehill Run 2005 St. Cindy Pinot Noir **** $37.95 Prince Edward County
Open just one year, this vineyard beside Norman Hardie and Carmela Estates is already showing the potential of the county’s limestone soils, even if production in the short- cropped 2005 vintage amounted to only 75 cases. Very floral cran-raspberry fruit with gentle background oak is set in a delicate, fine yet taut frame, riding to excellent length. April release at winery only. Email: wine@rosehillrun.com.
www.stratuswines.com.
8. Daniel Lenko 2004 Syrah **** 1/2 $49.95 Niagara Peninsula
British wine critic Jancis Robinson says Daniel Lenko’s 2002 syrah is the best Canadian red she’s tasted. I, too, was taken when I tasted it from sample a while back, but I’ve not seen it since – Lenko is hoarding the 25 remaining cases. The 2004 isn’t a bad consolation, showing an uncommon richness for any of Niagara’s fledgling attempts with this Mediterranean grape. Deeply coloured with classic syrah pepper, chocolate, cherry and anise-licorice set in a smooth, fine tannin frame. Excellent length. Winery only. www.daniellenko.com.
9. 13th Street 2005 Gamay Reserve **** $23 Niagara-on-the-Lake From the Sandstone Vineyard planted in 1983 in a warm pocket near Niagara-onthe-Lake, this traditionally fermented, barrel-aged gamay has been a signature of this tiny winery. The 2005 shows very ripe currant-cherry fruit with smoky, spicy complexity, set in a juicy, warm, generous style with fine tannin. Excellent length. A great mystery wine for dinner gatherings. Winery release in May. www.13thstreetwines.com.
10. Henry of Pelham 2004 Cabernet Merlot Reserve **** $29.95 Niagara Peninsula
From the lighter 2004 vintage, winemaker Ron Giesbrecht’s fragrant, enchanting red shows currant-berry fruit, gentle smokiness, dried herbs and minerality mindful of Bordeaux. Firm acidity and tannin are in good proportion to fruit and alcohol. www.henryofpelham.com. END