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					                                                                                           the guide.




                                                                    nelson
Sun-drenched Nelson sits pretty at the top of New Zealand’s South Island
        with sensational beaches, fresh seafood and boutique wineries.
                           WORDS SARAH NICHOLSON PHOTOGRAPHY STEPHEN GOODENOUGH

                      here are few places that combine      number of sunny days in the country, so
                      an exciting wine and food scene, a    there’s plenty of time to explore the idyllic
                      temperate climate and a vibrant       surrounds, including three national parks.
                      creative community with simply           If it’s a taste of adventure you’re after, row
                      breathtaking scenery, but New         to a deserted beach and camp for the night, or
           Zealand’s Nelson area is one of them.            dive in the marine reserve. For those looking
             Visit boutique wineries and taste aromatic     to relax and recharge, simply laze on golden-
           whites, savour shellfish or perhaps a salad of    sand beaches, sail on turquoise waters in
           organic vegetables and soft sheep’s milk         search of dolphins and fur seals, or visit
           cheese drizzled with award-winning olive oil.    jewellers, potters, painters and glass-blowers
             Situated in the north-west corner of the       in their galleries. Soon enough, you’ll be as
           South Island, Nelson boasts the highest annual   chilled-out as one of the friendly locals.

                                                                                              delicious. 43
                                                                                                                         Previous page: Kaiteriteri is one
                                                                                                                         of the most popular spots in the
                                                                                                                         Abel Tasman National Park.
                                                                                                                         Clockwise from left: Hopgood’s
                                                                                                                         is one of the new restaurants
                                                                                                                         in the city; enjoy contemporary
                                                                                                                         NZ cuisine at Flax; baby paua on
                                                                                                                         potato rosti at Awaroa Lodge; the
                                                                                                                         dining room at the lodge looks out
                                                                                                                         over the wetlands. Opposite page:
                                                                                                                         The Boat Shed Café has one of
                                                                                                                         the best locations in Nelson.




WHERE TO EAT                                      The Cut Restaurant & Bar, 94 Collingwood           seafood-focused menu with Asian influences,
Hopgood’s, 284 Trafalgar St, Nelson,              St, Nelson, tel: +64 3 548 9874.                   such as a delicious dish of crayfish tail beurre
tel: +64 3 545 7191.                              This is one of Nelson’s most highly awarded        monté (poached in butter), with asparagus
English-born Kevin Hopgood is the new chef        eateries for good reason. Local art, the orange    and white miso cream; and a whole seared
in town, having abandoned the bright lights       lamps and white tablecloths give the 1920s         baby paua (abalone) in the shell on potato
of London, where he worked for the famous         house warmth and sophistication. The food is       rosti with wasabi aioli.
Roux brothers and later as head chef at Elena’s   Mediterranean with a French feel. You won’t        Boat Shed Café, 350 Wakefield Quay,
L’Etoile in Soho for 10 years. Inspired by        find Asian influences here; co-owners Rob            Nelson, tel: +64 3 546 9783.
US chef and organic trailblazer Alice Waters,     Fanselow and chef Howard Morris leave that         Housed in a historic shed on the waterfront,
Kevin aims to serve solely local produce,         to their second restaurant, Harry’s Bar. Menu      this location couldn’t get much better.
which is organic wherever possible. His well-     choices depend on what’s at the local market,      Unsurprisingly, seafood is the order of the
executed dishes include a brunch of ricotta       but tender venison is always on – perhaps          day, with local Aoraki salmon and Tasman
pancakes with strawberries and manuka             roasted rare with oxtail and chestnut ravioli      Bay crab on offer, as well as fresh crayfish
honey; or dinner of tomato consommé with          and redcurrant jus – as is the crisp-based         plucked from tanks upon request. An
Nelson Bay scallops, and fish of the day with      lemon tart with a caramelised top. This place      extensive wine list ensures you’ll find the
globe artichokes and a dressing that uses local   has one of the best wine lists in town, too.       perfect drop to complement your meal.
organic saffron. The ever-changing food and       Awaroa Lodge restaurant, Awaroa Bay, Abel          Flax Restaurant and Bar, Shed 1,
wine menus will ensure that there’s always        Tasman National Park, tel: +64 3 528 8758.         Mapua Wharf, Mapua, tel: +64 3 540 2028.
something new to try.                             Located at Awaroa Lodge (see Where to              Tim Greenhough serves up contemporary
Bar Delicious, 276 Trafalgar St, Nelson,          Stay), at the northern end of the Abel Tasman      New Zealand cuisine in this former wharf
tel: +64 3 546 9400.                              National Park, this restaurant can’t be            shed, while wife Karen works out front. The
A few doors down from Hopgood’s, this             accessed by road – but you can arrive on           room is decorated with striking artworks,
Italian restaurant has a relaxed feel with high   foot, by boat or by air. That’s just the first of   including a large tapa cloth and woven flax
ceilings, wooden furniture and streetside         many unique things about Awaroa Lodge.             ‘sails’ on the rustic beams, but the view over
dining. Italian standards are on offer here –     As food can only be barged in at high-tide,        the water is the highlight. Try a salad of all-
including beef carpaccio and caprese salad        there’s an organic vegetable garden on site,       local ingredients, such as organic rocket with
with buffalo mozzarella – as well as roasted      and the stylish main dining room has a large       pecorino, pear and olive oil. And pork’s
lamb rump with Puy lentils, capsicum and          deck that overlooks the peaceful wetlands.         always on – think prosciutto-wrapped pork
marsala sauce for a main course.                  New chef Chris Whiting has a creative              belly with chorizo and apple stuffing.

44 delicious.
the guide.
the guide.




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                                                                                                                         5. 11.12.
                                                                                                                         6. 10. 13.
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                                                                                    19.
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                                                                                                22.        23.
WHERE TO EAT           22. Waimea Estates
2. Boat Shed Café      22. The Grape
6. The Oyster Bar          Escape
7. Stingray
8. Zest                WHERE TO SHOP
9. Hopgood’s           1. Guyton’s Seafood
10. Bar Delicious          Bazaar
10. Morrison Street    4. Tozzetti             The Smokehouse Cafe, Shed 3,                           Morrison Street Café, 244 Hardy St, Nelson,
    Café                   Panetteria
                                               Mapua Wharf, Mapua, tel: +64 3 540 2280.               tel: +64 3 548 8110.
11. The Cut            5. Nelson Market
    Restaurant & Bar   12. Rosy Glow           A great spot to lunch outdoors with a glass            A child-friendly cafe with an outdoor area.
13. Harry’s Bar            Chocolate           of crisp local white. Seafood is smoked over           Don’t stop at the great coffee – the food is also
16. Awaroa Lodge       14. Nelson Provincial   manuka chips, and you can buy products to              good, whether it’s a brekkie of chorizo and
    restaurant             Farmers’ Market,    take away. The menu ranges from a smoked-              bacon hash with eggs, or an open lamb and
19. Flax Restaurant    18. Neudorf Dairy
                                               salmon ‘gateau’ with roasted tomatoes and a            fennel sandwich on Turkish bread for lunch.
    and Bars           23. O’Neill’s Gourmet
                                               parmesan crust to classic Kiwi fish and chips.          Get there early for fresh-from-the-oven
                                                                                                                                                          ILLUSTRATION: PRISCILLA NIELSEN




19. The Smokehouse
    Cafe               WHERE TO STAY           Harry’s Bar, 306 Hardy St, Nelson,                     muffins, scones and breads baked daily.
                       1. Wakefield Quay        tel: +64 3 539 0905.                                      Stingray (8 Church St, Nelson, tel: +64 3 545
WHERE TO DRINK/            House               The dimly lit room and casual atmosphere               8957) has Moroccan tiled tables in a sunny
WINERIES               3. Te Puna Wai
                                               suit the pan-Asian menu of dishes designed to          courtyard. There is a variety of food all day,
14. Founders Organic       Lodge
    Brewery & Cafe     15. Warwick House       be shared. Mains range from green papaya               from breakfasts and pizzas to substantial
18. Neudorf Vineyard   17. The Resurgence      salad with nam jim dressing to crispy fried            mains. The coffee is good – and it’s even better
21. Kahurangi Estate   20. Bronte Lodge        whole snapper with ginger-chilli caramel.              with a piece of their indulgent cheesecake.
                                 Clockwise from top left:
                                 the turquoise waters of the
                                 area are ideal for boating,
                                 diving and swimming; cafe
                                 food with flair at Morrison
                                 Street Cafe; Flax restaurant
                                 overlooks Mapua Wharf;
                                 relax over a picnic at
                                 Neudorf Vineyard with one
                                 of their fabulous wines.




Opposite is Zest (5 Church St, Nelson, tel: +64     glass and an interesting cocktail list. Bar         Kahurangi Estate, Sunrise Rd, RD1,
3 546 7064), where there’s lots of deli food to     Delicious specialises in Belgian beers, with        Upper Moutere, tel: +64 3 543 2980.
eat in or take away, as well as a menu that may     Hoegaarden and renowned local brew Mac’s            With the oldest riesling vines in the South
include antipasto and fresh fish. If you want        on tap. If you’re a night owl, head to Stingray,    Island, the great rieslings are definitely the
raw fish, head to The Oyster Bar (115 Hardy          with its good selection of wines and classic        pick here, including a divine late-harvest
St, Nelson, tel: +64 3 545 8955) for sashimi and    cocktails, and lounge music. On certain             sticky. Enjoy your wine outside at the cafe
modern sushi. There’s the blackened scallop         weekends, after 11pm, things spark up with          with dips, bread and the estate’s olives.
reverse sushi roll and the ‘rockstar’ roll: spicy   DJs and dancing. (See Where to Eat section for      Waimea Estates, Appleby Highway, Hope,
tuna, smoked salmon and avocado. And, of            details of these restaurants.)                      Nelson, tel: +64 3 544 4963.
course, oysters and champers.                                                                           One of the larger wineries in the area, so
                                                    WINERIES                                            there’s a wide range on offer. It’s also big on
WHERE TO DRINK                                      The wineries in Nelson are boutique, and            riesling, including the Dry Riesling that does
Founders Organic Brewery & Cafe,                    nearly all of them are family-owned and             well with bottle age, and the Classic Riesling,
Founders Historic Park, 87 Atawhai Dve,             operated. The area is especially known for          which is good drinking straight off the bat.
Nelson, tel: +64 3 548 4638.                        aromatic whites, such as sauvignon blanc            The Bolitho Reserve range of sweet wines has
Beer flows in the blood of the Duncan family.        and riesling, and is also strong on chardonnay,     also been getting a lot of recognition recently.
John is a fifth-generation brewer, and he runs       pinot noir and dessert wines. Business hours        At Café in the Vineyard, match your favourite
the brewery with his wife Carol and their four      vary during the year, so call ahead.                wine to a dish from the varied menu.
children. There are four styles of beer to enjoy    Neudorf Vineyard, Neudorf Rd, Upper                 The Grape Escape, cnr McShane Rd and
while grazing from shared plates. The brewery       Moutere, tel: +64 3 543 2643.                       Coastal Hwy 60, Richmond, Nelson.
is closed in the evenings, except on Friday         Neudorf is one of the best-known wineries in        The Grape Escape Winery & Cellar (tel: +64 3
when it’s ‘Cook’s Night Off’ and locals BYO         these parts. With its two ranges, Moutere and       544 4054) is the cellar door for Te Mania Estate
fish and chips, enjoy the beer and let the kids      Nelson, you can compare the same varietal           and the organic wines of Richmond Plains. It’s
run wild in the playground.                         from the different vineyards. It’s famous for its   a relaxed setting to taste their great range of
   The Oyster Bar is an intimate place              Moutere chardonnay in particular – so               wines, including a Te Mania Reserve Pinot
for drinks, with a good selection of bubbly.        definitely have a taste if it’s on offer. And        Noir. The adjacent cottage is the Grape Escape
When it comes to beer, you’re spoilt for choice     you’re welcome to bring along a picnic to           Café & Wine Bar (tel: +64 3 544 4341). Its large
at Harry’s Bar, with a fantastic selection of       enjoy with your chosen bottle in the winery’s       lawns make it the perfect setting to enjoy some
local and imported beers, lots of wine by the       charming garden.                                    local salmon, or simply coffee and cake.

                                                                                                                                         delicious. 47
the guide.




                                                                                                                          Clockwise from far left: Rosy Glow
                                                                                                                          Chocolate offers handmade treats;
                                                                                                                          some of the country’s top olive oils
                                                                                                                          are produced here; a range of
                                                                                                                          specialty breads are baked at
                                                                                                                          Tozzetti Panetteria; Moutere Gold
                                                                                                                          preserves are a great local product
                                                                                                                          available at Zest.




WHERE TO SHOP                                     Neudorf Dairy, 230 Neudorf Rd, RD2,                markets, all the stalls are manned by the
Zest (see Where to Eat) stocks lots of gourmet    Upper Moutere, tel: 64 3 543 2789.                 producers, so you can find out where the
goodies from local and other NZ producers.        There’s just a small chiller cabinet in this       food comes from and how it’s grown.
Look for high-quality Nelson olive oils such as   relatively new cheese factory, but the cheeses     Guyton’s Seafood Bazaar, 270 Wakefield
Elovi; handmade preserves from Moutere            are worth the stop. Moreish sheep’s-milk           Quay, Nelson, tel: +64 3 548 7295.
Gold, such as feijoa and green ginger chutney;    cheeses include the soft, fresh Mount Crusader.    Restaurants and casual shoppers alike source
Kerstiens boysenberry truffles and jams; and       Pick up some before you go for a picnic at         their seafood from here, with 15-20 species of
From Shirley’s Kitchen fig and walnut log          Neudorf winery (see Where to Drink), which         filleted fish, some whole fish, as well as local
(great with cheese).                              is just up the road.                               scallops and live crayfish, mussels and cockles.
Rosy Glow Chocolate, 20 Harley St, Nelson,        Nelson Market, Montgomery Square                   A second Guyton’s outlet is in Richmond Mall
tel: +64 3 548 3383.                              car park, Nelson, tel: +64 27 270 2600.            (Shop 80, Queen St, Richmond, tel: +64 3 543
Mary Taylor has been a chocolatier for 15 years   Held in the centre of town every Saturday          9206), where you’ll also find O’Neill’s Gourmet
up the coast in Collingwood, and daughter         from 8am to 1pm, this chilled-out market is        (Shop 71, tel: +64 3 544 5034), a high-end




                                                                                                                                                           PLEASE NOTE: RATES MAY VARY ACCORDING TO THE TIME OF WEEK OR SEASON
Miriam manages this second store located in a     the place to get a good taste of the region. The   butchery and deli selling poussin and escargots
small pink cottage. These chocolates are either   Original Nsaturesmoke (tel: +64 3 547 2820)        as well as house-made terrines.
poured or dipped, rather than made in             has mussel paté, smoked fish and poultry on
moulds, so they’re not your usual dainty          offer. The Cheese Shop (tel: +64 3 540 3034)       WHERE TO STAY
choccies. It’s all about big flavours such as      specialises in Dutch gouda, and has other          Te Puna Wai Lodge, 24 Richardson St,
Lime Sour and Just Ginger, and liqueur            boutique sheep and goat’s cheeses. There’s         Port Hills, Nelson, tel: +64 3 548 7621,
varieties such as Orange Blossom.                 also wild goat and hare, and if hunger hits,       www.tepunawai.co.nz.
Tozzetti Panetteria, 41 Halifax St, Nelson,       grab a wine-bratwurst roll from the Bratwurst      Fresh flowers, interesting travel pieces and a
tel: +64 3 546 8484.                              Grill (+64 3 544 4641), which has a tempting       cosy guest lounge give this three-storey villa
Owner and baker Richard Brett toils all night     selection of German smallgoods, too.               a welcoming feel. Downstairs are two rooms:
to create his delectable goods – light, buttery   Nelson Provincial Farmers’ Market,                 one is self-contained and opens onto a patio.
boysenberry frangipane tarts, a rustic loaf       Founders Historic Park, 87 Atawhai Dve,            Up a little staircase to the third floor, there’s a
with caramelised garlic cloves, and a             Nelson, tel: +64 3 548 4638.                       room complete with new marble bathroom,
Saturday-only special of a rosemary, onion-       An exciting new development for foodies in         and a large window so you can wake up to
jam and rock-salt loaf among the selection.       the area, this market is held on Sundays from      serene water views. From NZ$165 per double
Lots of takeaway lunch options, too.              9am to noon. In the true spirit of farmers’        per night, including breakfast.

48 delicious.
                                                                                                                                    the guide.


                                    Clockwise from left: when you stay
                                    at Wakefield Quay House, you can
                                    to enjoy the amazing art collection;
                                    ‘the castle’ as Warwick House is
                                    known to locals, sits on a hill
                                    overlooking the city; the chic
                                    studio rooms at Awaroa Lodge;
                                    green as far as the eye can see
                                    at The Resurgence.




Awaroa Lodge (see Where to Eat),                   and relaxed, and will tell you anything you           In addition, Kahurangi Estate winery (see
www.awaroalodge.co.nz.                             want to know about the area. There are three       Wineries, www.kahurangiwine.com), has an
There’s no road access, but once you get here      rooms, all with ensuites and one with a            80-year old cottage that has been luxuriously
you won’t want to leave this natural paradise.     private balcony. From NZ$225 per double per        refurbished. It’s self-contained, with a full
Minutes from the long, sandy beach and             night, including breakfast and drinks with         kitchen and barbecue area, and sleeps six.
stunning walks, all the activities you could       delicious snacks. If you’re keen on sailing,       From NZ$290 per double per night, including
want are at your fingertips. Rooms include          John has a 32-foot yacht you can hire.             breakfast hamper and a bottle of wine.
chic studios with private balconies and            The Resurgence, Riwaka Valley, RD3
family rooms that sleep up to eight. From          Motueka, tel: +64 3 528 4664,                      WHAT TO DO
NZ$210 per double per night.                       www.resurgence.co.nz.                              Visit a national park: The stunning Abel
Warwick House, 64 Brougham St, Nelson, tel:        Set among 20 hectares of native bush, with         Tasman is understandably popular for
+64 3 548 3164, www.warwickhouse.co.nz.            stunning views up to Takaka Hill, there are        anything from a boat cruise to a few hours’
Carefully restored by Nick and Jenny Ferrier,      four rooms in the stylish lodge and two self-      walking or a five-day kayak adventure.
‘The Castle’, as this turreted 1854 house is       contained cottages. Lots of outdoorsy types        Get arty: From glass-blowing and ceramics to
known to locals, has now regained much of          come here to enjoy the walks, but for those        stunning jewellery, a visit to a gallery is a
its former grandeur. The Bayview suite looks       who just want to lie by the pool, it’s blissful.   must. For an idea of the breadth of the region’s
out over the city towards the water, the           From NZ$295 per double per night, including        talent, visit: www.nelsonarts.org.nz.
Tower suite features the octagonal tower           breakfast and a Mediterranean-style, four-         Go fishing: Catch your own salmon along the
lounge, and the Peacock Garden suite has a         course dinner served in the lodge.                 tranquil banks of the clear Anatoki River at a
private garden and spa. From NZ$220 per            Bronte Lodge, Bronte Road East, (off the           freshwater salmon farm. More information,
double per night, including breakfast – which      Coastal Highway near Mapua), Nelson,               visit: www.anatokisalmon.co.nz.
is served in the ballroom, no less.                tel: +64 3 540 2422, www.brontelodge.co.nz.        Learn a new skill: Participate in a one-day
Wakefield Quay House, 385 Wakefield Quay,            Sitting on Bronte Peninsula surrounded by          workshop on olive oil, seafood, organic
Port Hills, Nelson, tel: +64 3 546 7275,           orchards and vineyards, there are two villas       brewing or winemaking. More information,
www.wakefieldquay.co.nz.                            and two suites here with all you could             visit: www.creativetourism.co.nz. d.
With water views overlooking Tasman Bay,           possibly want, plus a tennis court and heated      Thanks to Tourism New Zealand for its assistance
this classic colonial villa has tasteful modern    pool. From NZ$440 per double per night,            with this feature, visit: www.newzealand.com.
furnishings and a stunning collection of local     including breakfast served on the deck of the      Thankyou also to Air New Zealand, tel: 13 24 76
art. Owners Woodi and John Moore are fun           charming Fraser family’s homestead.                or visit: www.airnewzealand.com.au.

				
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